The Start of the “Curry Mile” The next large influx to the East End were the Bangladeshi, who came in the mid-20th century shortly after the partition of the Indian sub-continent. Their influence is unmistakable, as Brick Lane has close to a hundred curry restaurants, as well as spice shops, bakeries, sweets shops and markets. It’s often referred to as the “Curry Mile” or the “Curry Capital of Europe.” At Aladin, a Bangladeshi/Indian/ Pakistani curry house praised by HRH Prince Charles and the winner of numerous food awards, we sampled Tikka Masala, butter chicken, soft and fluffy naan bread and spicy pakoras. Now, the area is seeing the next wave with arrivals from the Middle East trouble spots. If history repeats, they too will find a place in the narrow streets of this burgeoning neighborhood.
Tradition Still Remains Despite the many cultures that have streamed in to the East End, the traditional food of “Olde England” still thrives. In addition to the English Restaurant with which the tour started, we enjoyed fish and chips at Poppies, voted the best in England. We visited Androuet, a cheese shop that showcases the best of English and international cheeses, and traipsed through the noise, confusion and richness of Spitalfields Market. For a break, we sampled some English ales at The Pride of Spitalfields, a traditional pub. And along the way, we saw several examples of brilliant street art, including a Banksy installation.
A Lesson in Living There was a bit of everything on this tour, and that made it incredibly rewarding. What I appreciated most was what the East End proves – that differences can be preserved and celebrated within a larger cultural context. While the area has faced battles in its evolution toward what is today’s stable multi-ethnic mix, it’s heartening that the struggles have resulted in peaceful partnerships.
The English Restaurant serves a deadly good bread and butter pudding.
The tour was definitely a feast for foodies but also provided food for thought and an inspiring lesson in coexistence. On Brick Lane, there’s a temple that is the ultimate example of diversity. Originally a church built in 1743 as the Nouvelle Eglise for Huguenots, it became a Wesleyan chapel in 1809, then morphed into the Great Synagogue of Spitalfields in 1898. Then, in 1976, the building became the Jamme Masjid, a place of worship for the district’s Bangladeshi community.
Did the salt beef bagel taste better because I knew the history of the Jewish diaspora? Does a curry acquire more layers of complexity when you know the Bangladeshi story? Does a plate of fish and chips taste more satisfying when enjoyed in the context of a global community? For me, the answer was a resounding yes.
WINTER 2016/17
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