Full steam

Story by Hollie Connery.

Ships and icebergs have an uncomfortable history, yet they also share a common peculiarity. Just as an iceberg hides its bulk beneath the waterline, so too does a ship. Indeed the sheer size and magnitude of a vessel can only be fully appreciated when on slip or in dry docks.

In this way, the sheer enormity of the project to restore the Paddle Steamer Oscar W was revealed. The task was laid bare to anyone who journeyed out to Coorong Quays on Hindmarsh Island to see the magnificent and historical gem of South Australia up on dry docks these last months.

Measuring just over 31 metres in length, with a beam of 6 metres, the Oscar W weighs in at 84.3 tonnes. It’s monstrous to say the least. ‘When the Oscar is cruising, she’s got her own heartbeat. She’s got the thump of her engine. She’s got her whistle. She’s got the steam. She’s got the blow downs. So it’s like a huge living monster that’s coming along,’ longtime volunteer Christina Somervaille explains.

Surveys happen on the vessel biannually and the renovations this year were spread across 1300 hours shared by a dedicated and hardworking team of Alexandrina Council volunteers. Thirteen timber panels were replaced, and fresh cork seals were renewed – a maritime process that leans on traditional wooden boat-building skills that are rare in 2022.

The undertaking of the year-round roster of volunteers from the Goolwa community is a tight ship run by president of the Oscar W Friends Incorporated, George Kaiser. Alexandrina Council own the vessel and fund the repairs carried out by contractors, as well as facilitating training for the skilled volunteers. But it’s truly the labour and dedication of the Friends of Oscar W group that keeps her engine firing, and the gangplank readied for passengers to step aboard.

They also oversee the mammoth task of ensuring the wood yard is handsomely stocked to keep tours running. ‘It starts off with a phone call. Someone will say ‘I’ve had a tree fall down on my property’,’ explains George. ‘It’s quite a process. From the time we’ve seen the first piece of wood lying in some farmer’s paddock, we’ve probably handled it 14 or 15 times before it makes it to the fire box to steam the engine along.’

There’s something about having a living, working relic of the past that draws admirers from all over. Celebrating her 114th birthday this year in October, the PS Oscar W boasts a tremendous richness of cultural heritage and is a legend of the Murray River.

The paddle steamer runs regular tours out of the Goolwa Wharf and guests are encouraged to mingle with the volunteers and learn about this magnificent vessel.