Affectionately known as Victor

When you ask the locals of Victor Harbor what they love about the town, they can’t always put it into words straight away.

Modern-day explorers crossing the causeway to Granite Island on the iconic horse-drawn tram.

There’s the natural beauty of the area of course. The laid-back lifestyle just a short drive south of Adelaide. The supportive community of people always willing to stop for a chat. But what quickly becomes clear to me, is the passion that Victor Harbor people have for their town; how invested they are in its future, and the sense that the phrase ‘community spirit’, so often overused, was created to describe towns like Victor.

This place has always provided for the people who’ve lived here. Long before the famous 1802 meeting between Matthew Flinders and Nicolas Baudin, which gave Encounter Bay its current name, the Ramindjeri people hunted and gathered among the area’s fertile valleys and calm waters.

When South Australia was later occupied, Victor Harbor – first known as Victor Harbour and later, briefly, Port Victor – was considered as a possible site for the capital of the new colony, before Light’s vision won the day. The first non-Indigenous settlers were whalers, fisherman and sealers, drawn by the rich marine life. Then, in 1864 after a series of wrecks at Port Elliot, the railway (built to connect the river trade from Goolwa to Port Elliot) was extended to Victor, bringing the lucrative wheat and wool trade with it.

It was around this time that the horse-drawn railway was constructed along the causeway to Granite Island to service ships coming into the harbour. This lasted until the 1890s, when rail took over from the river trade, sending Australia’s wheat and wool to alternative ports. Victor Harbor settled into life as a seaside holiday destination, while the journey of the horse-drawn rail was transformed from working route to the leisure trail that still operates today. The town’s rebirth as a strong and proud seaside community had begun.

Then as now, it seems, Granite Island looms large in the community consciousness, but I struggle to remember the last time I crossed the causeway out to the island. My 34-year-old legs now make easy work of the 630m amble from the Victor Harbor foreshore. Beside me, my three-year-old skips along, taking twice the number of steps I do, as he crosses the causeway for the first time.

He’s excited to be exploring somewhere new and, in some ways, I’m doing the same. Like many South Australians, I’ve visited Victor Harbor countless times before, but it was always as a visitor. Now, as of just a few months ago, I’m a Fleurieu local and Victor is my nearest metropolis. So, I’m intrigued by the signs that invite me to rediscover Granite Island.

The Oceanic Victor tuna diving ring taken on a day perfect for the unique underwater experience.

Photo courtesy of Oceanic Victor.

The new street scape of Ocean Street.

The original Steam Ranger station and railway.

Diners enjoying the Mexican fare at Loco.

Photo by Angela Lisman.

We’re visiting the island during a time of transition. It’s recently taken a public relations beating, following the closure of the penguin centre in 2016. But there are signs of life, not least among the small remaining population of little penguins which, though still very fragile, has stabilised with reports of new chicks just days after we visit.

Crossing the causeway, the circular form of Oceanic Victor’s in-sea aquarium comes into view, housing the so-called Ferraris of the sea, Southern bluefin tuna. The nature-based tourism business offers the chance to swim with these sleek and speedy creatures, though it’s far too cool for a dip on our visit. The operator has also established a new café on the island and runs twilight penguin spotting tours.

Reaching the island, the eponymous rocks, crusted with orange lichen, come into view. They’ve been joined more recently by eight permanent (and a number of temporary) sculptures as part of the Sculpture Encounters – Granite Island exhibition, developed in partnership between the South Australian State Government and arts not-for-profit, Sculpture by the Sea. The sculptures are dotted along the just under three kilometre Kaiki Trail, which also takes in the magnificent views up and down the south coast.

Back on the mainland, another feature of Victor Harbor’s heritage – the railway turntable – is located just a short walk away along Flinders Parade past the towering Norfolk Island pines. The turntable, which marks the turnaround point for the beloved Cockle Train, has recently benefited from a $460,000 redevelopment. The site now includes a shelter in the shape of a train carriage, with interpretive signage for the forty-thousand passengers ferried along the line each year. But it’s the striking blue sheep, a celebration of the former wool trade, that steal my three-year-old’s heart.

An irresistible bowl of local seafood from Eat @ Whalers restaurant.

A colourful collection of hand-crafted chocolates by Harbor Chocolate.

The art deco interior of the original Victa Cinema.

Photo courtesy of Victa Cinema.

A small selection from the huge array of local and imported lollies, sweets and hand made fudge at All Sweets and Treats.

Stop by artisan coffee bar Wood for the perfectly extracted coffee.

Victor’s heritage and natural beauty are complemented by the many dining options. Eat at Whaler’s with its beachfront location provides the perfect setting for a menu focused on local produce. Closer to the town centre, long-time favourite Nino’s Café has been joined more recently by sister-restaurant Loco Mexican, both owned by Simon and Kirsten Pitman. Describing herself as ‘fiercely local’, Kirsten is proud of the quality and service provided in her restaurants at the same time championing the collective spirit of the business community: ‘People care about what happens outside their front gate,’ she tells me.

Another local business owner, Glenn Wade of Raw and Harbor Chocolate echoes Kirsten’s sentiment. ‘Ninety per cent of our business is local community rather than tourism,’ he explains. ‘Without them, we wouldn’t exist.’

The level of local support has seen perennial Victor favourites like the Victa Cinema and All Sweets and Treats continue to thrive on a rejuvenating Ocean Street. More recently, a number of creative new businesses have opened, including the delightful indoor plants and homewares shop Charlie & Jack and coffee havens Qahwa and Wood Rustic Roastery, continuing to diversify the local scene.

Sculpture Encounters on Granite Island at dusk. Ocean Lace by Britt Mikkelsen (WA).

Photo by Ron Langman.

One of the beauties who pulls the horse-drawn tram.

The original Steam Ranger Station.

Then as now, it seems, Granite Island looms large in the community consciousness, but I struggle to remember the last time I crossed the causeway out to the island.

Kleinigs Hill Lookout.

Charlie & Jack owner Kristy, surrounded by plants and homewares in her light-filled store.

View from the counter at Qahwa Espresso Bar, with tables and umbrellas spilling into the sunshine and sand of the adjacent beach-volleyball courts.

The serene space of The Joyful Buddhas Wellness and Yoga Studio.

Unique hand cut ‘Community Dogs’ from the collective artists of Warlukurlangu from Yuendumu. Available at Kiri Kiri Art.

Victor Harbor’s unique mix of natural beauty, laidback lifestyle and vibrant community spirit is something to be treasured and enjoyed, now and in the years to come.

Alongside, these ventures, Victoria MacKirdy, CEO City of Victor Harbor, touts the burgeoning local arts movement which, as well as Sculpture Encounters, includes a digital art projector on the main street, the Railway Terrace Artisan Markets, and new public artworks being incorporated into Victor’s public spaces. ‘It means that there is now so much more for people to discover in Victor Harbor, and I can see that this is something that will only grow into the future, making it a destination for the arts, as well as nature and fun,’ Victoria says.

As a new resident on her own tour of discovery, I can only concur. Victor Harbor’s unique mix of natural beauty, laidback lifestyle and vibrant community spirit is something to be treasured and enjoyed, now and in the years to come.

Story by Kate Le Gallez.

Photography by Heidi Lewis.