Crafting Cocktails

Institutions like Nixta are using specialty spirits to take Latin-inspired cocktails in new directions.

The Nixta Spritz contains elote liqueur, amaro, lemon and seltzer. “I love the [elote] liqueur; it’s very corn-forward,” Ben Poremba, owner of Nixta and Bengelina Hospitality Group, says. “It’s kind of sweet canned corn flavor – but boozy.”

Another standout at Nixta is the Dieciséis, which includes blanco tequila, lime, serrano and mole bitters. The serrano gives it heat, while the mole bitters bring earthiness and warmth.

Nixta’s play on the Paloma – the Ocho – includes mezcal, grapefruit and ghost pepper tincture. It’s from the restaurant’s original cocktail menu, and it’s still popular seven years later. “It’s smoky, a little citrusy, it’s bitter and spicy; it’s a grown-up drink,” Poremba says.

Sunny’s Cantina in Dogtown offers a different riff on a Paloma: To ramp up the citrus, it utilizes 21 Seeds Grapefruit Hibiscus Tequila and fresh grapefruit juice. It also replaces the traditional sparkling water with Urban Chestnut’s Grapefruit Radler. Sunny’s Cantina’s general manager Kelly Filla says the beer gives it a fuller, rounder flavor and more body. Sunny’s squeezes two cases of limes a day to make sure it’s using the freshest juice possible and crafts its orange and jalapeño simple syrups in-house.

Like Nixta and Sunny’s, Taqueria Morita focuses on layering complex flavors from Latin America. It also often changes its cocktail menu to reflect changes in the seasons. Take its celeriac cocktail – a spin on a Margarita. “I took the mezcal and other spirits and infused them with celery root and pineapple core,” Take Root Hospitality bar manager Phil Ingram says. “We also use lime juice and a little bit of artichoke liqueur.” He explains that the artichoke and celery add a bitterness to the drink to help prevent the cloying sweetness that can come with some margaritas.

Another big hit at Taqueria Morita during the summer was the Tomatillo, which featured sotol, blanco tequila, tomatillo, green apple, cucumber citrus and mint. Leila Miller, Taqueria Morita’s general manager, says the drink is an example of encouraging people to think of tequila as more than something to pour in a shot glass. “We kind of push people outside their realm a little bit,” she says.

No Alcohol, No Problem

Creative, flavorful drinks, however, don’t have to contain alcohol. Taqueria Morita makes a winter horchata, which is a creamy, ricebased drink with cinnamon, sugar and vanilla.

Both Morita and Nixta also offer housemade aguas frescas that are perfect for enjoying on a patio. One of Miller’s favorite varieties uses aloe, which is a traditional ingredient. “I’d be in Mexico, and they’d just pull it out and put it in water all the time,” she says.

At Nixta, you’ll find cucumber and lime, strawberry and passion fruit aguas frescas. “It’s diluted fruit water with a little bit of sweetness and a lot of tart,” Poremba says. “So people that don’t drink still have something nice to come in and look forward to as far as a beverage.”

DIY Inspiration

You don’t have to go out to experience these complex flavors for yourself. Keep a wellstocked bar at home and you’re well on your way to a delicious drink. All four experts emphasize the importance of fresh citrus –the more lemons, limes and grapefruits, the better. Poremba finds that spicy, bright Latin American dishes go best with drinks that are fruity and tart but not sweet. “Citrus-forward drinks are not necessarily sweet but are very fruity,” he says.

Ingram emphasizes the importance of fresh ginger and tamarind. Fresh tamarind can be hard to find, so he advises buying a concentrate to have on hand. “I like having a lot of different types of sweetness,” Ingram says. “I like a turbinado sugar … I also like – when I can get it – monk fruit, which is a natural sweetener.” To reinforce the flavors of agave-based spirits like tequila and mezcal, he notes that it’s good to keep some agave nectar behind the bar as well.

Poremba relays that home mixologists shouldn’t be afraid to experiment when making these drinks. He says to start by doing riffs and swaps with classic cocktails. “I am of the opinion that you can substitute mezcal or good quality tequila for every classic gin drink or for every classic bourbon drink,” Poremba says. To take it to the next level, look for fun bitters and tinctures in spicy and sweet flavors. And no matter what the drink is, if all else fails, give it a squeeze of lime, and it’ll turn out grand.

Nixta, bengelina.com/nixta

Sunny’s Cantina, sunnyscantina.com

Taqueria Morita, taqueriamorita.com