mystery shopper

spice up any spread with these fermented greens.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com

photography by jennifer Silverberg

What Is It?

pickled mustard greens (sometimes labeled as “sour mustard greens” in asian markets) are the deliciously funky result of fermenting the fresh greens in a rice vinegar brine with chiles and garlic. i’m not talking about those slender, delicate mustard greens you see at most supermarkets: these pickles are made from bodacious gai choy, which looks like a mix between napa cabbage and bok choy. like most pickles, pickled mustard greens are an addictive mix of sweet and sour, with a peppery bite and whiffs of dill pickle and horseradish.

What Do I Do WIth It?

With the resurgence of pickled vegetables and home cooks’ increasing willingness to experiment, it’s not hard to find ways to tuck pickled mustard greens into everyday dishes. but if you’re stuck for how to use them, look to a typical Korean table. these greens pair well with rich or spicy meat and fish, slicing right through any fattiness, and their sourness makes them perfect for adding to stir-fries, noodle dishes and fried rice alongside less pungent vegetables. their astringency works to bolster brothy soups as well. like bao? pickled mustard greens are a defining component of gua bao (taiwanese pork belly buns). if you like greens with your eggs, you’ll also love the combination of flavors and textures in the following frittata recipe.

pickled mustard greens are simple to prepare – just look for gai choy at any asian market and then find a recipe online. the packaged ones abound, as well, but remember that every brand has a different flavor profile, from sweet-spicy to 100 percent funky, so if you don’t like the first one you try, don’t give up.

Frittatas are an easy, elegant brunch dish, and this one sings thanks to the addition of pickled mustard greens. Finely chop the greens to allow for clean slices, and if you want, switch up the type of sausage you use from time to time. I like to use hot Italian sausage, but traditional Italian sausage and chorizo work well, too.

Frittata with Sausage, Goat Cheese & Pickled Mustard Greens

ServeS 8

10 large eggs ²⁄₃ cup milk ¹⁄₃ cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp, plus 2 tsp, olive oil, divided 1 lb hot Italian sausage 2 cloves garlic, minced 6 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced 2 cups pickled mustard greens, rinsed, squeezed of excess moisture and finely chopped 4 oz fresh goat cheese kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

/ preparation / Preheat oven to 400°F. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs, milk and heavy cream until combined; set aside.

Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add sausage; stirring frequently, cook until browned, breaking it up as it cooks. Transfer sausage to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Wipe remaining grease from skillet and set back over medium heat; add remaining oil. Once oil is shimmering, add garlic and scallions; stirring frequently, cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Add browned sausage and pickled mustard greens, tossing until ingredients are evenly distributed in the skillet. Pour egg mixture over ingredients and use a spatula to even out mixture. Crumble goat cheese over top; season with salt and pepper. Bake until eggs are just cooked through, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside, 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

pair with: Bavarian Weissbier

PAIR IT!

The funky and slightly tart nose of the yeast in Urban Chestnut’s Schnickelfritz gives the pickled mustard greens and goat cheese in this recipe a lot to work with. That same yeast also gives the weissbier (meaning “white beer” in German) notes of clove and spice, which correspond to the flavor of the sausage. Finally, the beer’s full-bodied character meets the heft of the egg to compete for dominance. –JC Sandt urbanchestnut.com