What's Old is NeW agaiN

Rich in fiber, iron and B vitamins, rye flour varies widely in flavor based on how much of the rye kernel is present. The more rye kernel there is, the darker the flour will be, leading to a more intense rye flavor and often a denser texture in the final product. “Rye is phenomenal,” says baker Bryan rye Russo, who uses dark rye flour from Janie’s Mill in the biscuits at Songbird in St. Louis. “I don’t even know where to start because when I think of rye I think of one thing, but when I think of the dark rye that we use from Janie’s, it’s a whole different category and a new smell. That’s the only way to put it: When you smell it, you won’t forget it.” And it’s good for much more than savory applications: Neighbor’s Mill, for instance, uses rye flour in its decadent salted chocolate rye cookies. “Rye has a wonderful floral quality, even just smelling it on its own,” says Clif Brown. “It pairs well with more unusual applications like in a cookie or a sweet bread. That beautiful floral quality to rye flour really comes through with the chocolate.”

PHOTO by Paige mcdOnald

< Songbird Rye Biscuits

MiLLet

Once dismissed as simply bird feed, millet has seen a surge in popularity due to both its health benefits – it’s naturally gluten-free and full of protein, fiber and antioxidants – and mildly sweet flavor. A cereal grain, millet is cultivated from approximately 50 different species of small-seeded grasses and is a staple crop throughout parts of Africa and Asia (millet flour is a key ingredient in roti, an Indian flatbread, and bánh đa kê, a Vietnamese sweet snack). Because it has a light, mild flavor, it’s easy to sub into both sweet and savory recipes, from cookies and cakes to biscuits and breads. “Millet is a softer one with some sweeter notes,” says AJ Brown. “It tends to have more of that ricey corn flavor. It’s more similar to quinoa in the way that it tastes.”

PHOTO by Paige mcdOnald

“Flour is one of the most important ingredients, but half of the time it’s so torn apart – it’s bleached and bromated and made into a product where you don’t get any of the nuance, flavors, textures and nutrition. That’s what attracted me to ancient grains.”

–Bryan russo, songBird in st. Louis

Where to Buy

Locally Milled Flour

Heartland Mill Based in Marienthal, Kansas, Heartland Mill specializes in Kansas wheat, including heirloom Turkey Red and Golden Buffalo, along with barley, millet, spelt and light and dark rye flours. heartlandmill.com

Knead BaKeHouse and Provisions In addition to its beloved sourdough and pastries, Knead Bakehouse and Provisions in St. Louis offers a variety of pantry staples for curbside pickup, including 1½-pound bags of stone-ground, lightly sifted flour from Janie’s Mill (as well as its 8-year-old sourdough starter). kneadbakehouse.com

neigHBor’s Mill BaKery & Café At its two Springfield, Missouri, locations, Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café sells 2- and 5-pound bags of spelt and whole-wheat flour milled in house, in addition to sourdough starter. neighborsmill.com

Janie’s Mill A favorite of bakeries across the Midwest, Janie’s Mill in Ashkum, Illinois, grows and mills heirloom and hybrid grain varieties, including buckwheat, einkorn, light and dark rye and spelt. janiesmill.com

spelt

Think of spelt as a gateway grain, as it’s easy to sub in for a range of baked goods and is increasingly becoming available on shelves in major supermarkets and groceries. Prized for its nutty flavor, it’s also a great source of fiber, iron and manganese. “Spelt is one of my favorite grains to eat and to work with, not only because of its health benefits but because it’s an ancient grain, a lot of people are able to eat it compared to whole wheat,” says Clif Brown. “Spelt still has that ‘came from the field’ grassy flavor that I find very delicious, but it’s also got that toasted Maillard [reaction] flavor to it as well that you don’t necessarily get from whole wheat.” Because spelt has a slightly higher gluten content than other alternative flours, it’s easy to sub in 1:1 for all-purpose flour – try it in pie crust, cookies or even pizza dough.

PHOTO by zacH bauman

good to know

Many alternative flours are lower in gluten, the protein that strengthens and binds dough, than all-purpose or bread flours. If you’re baking bread, start by incorporating a smaller percentage of alternative flour, up to 25 percent, into your grain bill. “Buckwheat has a very distinct flavor – you either love it or you hate it,” says Kathryn Ratzlaff, buckwheat director of bakery operations at Ibis Bakery in Kansas City. Featuring an intensely earthy, slightly bitter flavor, it’s packed with protein, vitamins and fiber. Despite the name, buckwheat is not related to wheat at all; it’s actually a fruit seed in the rhubarb and sorrel family. Naturally gluten-free, buckwheat shines in breakfast favorites such as pancakes, waffles or crêpes and is the cornerstone of Japanese soba noodles, but you can also sub a smaller portion (approximately 25 percent) into your grain bill to add new depth to quick breads, muffins and cookies. Buckwheat is light, finely textured and very absorbent, which Ratzlaff says makes it easy to sub in for traditional flour in baked goods. “I’ve had a buckwheat cake before and a lot of times it’s hard to get gluten-free cakes to do that,” she says. “Gluten-free flour tends to be gummy, not able to produce a light, fluffy crumb that you would find in cake.”

PHOTO by cHeryl waller

< Neighbor’s Mill Buckwheat Pancakes

Einkorn is the most ancient of the ancient grains: It’s believed to be the first variety of wheat consumed by humans and was domesticated around 7500 B.C. in southeast Turkey. Although it’s not completely glutenfree, einkorn has a different gluten structure that makes it easier to digest – it contains only 14 chromosomes as opposed to the 42 in modern wheat. “Einkorn is softer, sweeter and a little more elegant in the way it tastes than other ancient grains,” says AJ Brown. When it’s milled into flour, its delicate sweetness and slightly nutty flavor shine in pie crust, cookies and cake, but you can also use the whole berries to add toothsome texture to different dishes. Sub them in for farro or wheat berries in a salad, or soak the berries overnight before cooking them into a porridge. “Einkorn is so special,” says Russo. “It’s got a bit of a vanilla note to it, and it’s very soft and almost biscuity. It’s really its own thing.”

PHOTO by Paige mcdOnald

einkorn

Taco Tuesday

Over the past year, it's been easy to feel as though you may be missing out on milestones and momentous occasions. Feast wants to change this sentiment. That's why we’re bringing the fun right to your doorstep with the third event in our series of At-Home Celebrations. When you sign up for Taco Tuesday, you receive a complete cocktail kit, food vouchers, gifts and goodies delivered straight to your door. Then tune in for a live cooking and cocktail-making demo for the event on Tuesday, May 4.

Celebrate with us by visiting feastmagazine.com/athome

mission taco chorizo

t •ry Mission tAco's fAMous 1 Tbsp cumin chorizo reciPe At hoMe! • 1 tsp black pepper • • • Sign up for the event for an in-depth cooking demo straight from their chefs. 2 tsp sugar 2 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp cold water • 1 Tbsp vegetable oil Serves | 4 |

| Preparation | Place the pork in a small bowl and add the ingredients. Mix by hand until all ingredients are fully combined. Let rest at least 6 hours and up to 2 days before cooking. Cook in a skillet over medium heat breaking up with a spoon until pork is fully cooked and slightly browned. Drain excess grease and serve.

• 1 lb ground pork • 1 Tbsp kosher salt • 2 Tbsp chipotle powder • 1 tsp smoked paprika • 1 Tbsp fresh puréed garlic • 1 Tbsp Mexican oregano

El jimador rosÉ margarita

A greAt tAco tuesdAy requires A greAt tequilA.

El Jimador Silver Tequila is hand-harvested and made with 100 percent blue agave. Enjoy their perfect spring Margarita recipe and a live cocktail demo when you sign up for the event.

Serves | 1 | • 2 oz el Jimador silver tequila • 1 oz lime juice • .5 oz rosé syrup • .5 oz raspberry syrup • lime wheel, for garnish • raspberry, for garnish

| Preparation | Combine all ingredients into shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into glass with fresh ice and garnish.