Feast Norfolk Magazine February 17 Issue 13

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Nor w ic h's Ja yn e & Nig el Raf fle s on 25 ye ar s in th e re st au ra nt w or ld

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FOOD & DRINK

F E B RUARY 2017

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Fine dining at

Stoke Mill

NATIONAL WINTER ALES FESTIVAL IN NORWICH

Eating out e sea by th

LOVE IN GORLESTON

WHErE TO WIne & DINE YOUR VALENTINE

ISSN 2397-1673

9 772397 167017

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17 yum my recipes to try


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Editor's Letter W E L C O M E

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FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ELCOME TO OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE and I hope you are feeling reinvigorated and refreshed after the festive period. The team enjoyed its break and spent time relaxing, drawing breath and planning this year - so be ready for plenty of action. As ever, we’re keen on quality writing, editorial independence and bringing you a good cross section of what is happening in the world of food and drink - both locally and nationally. This month, we’re getting romantic, as befits this time of year, and we suggest places to spend the special day, whether you like going out for breakfast, sipping a cocktail or enjoying an overnight stay somewhere! We also call into Stoke Mill, just outside Norwich, which is a glorious fine dining option, and a lovely spot for a Valentine’s dinner date! Our eating out reviews, always one of our most popular ‘reads’, see us visiting The Jolly Sailors in Brancaster Staithe and JayJay’s, a fab beach cafe in Gorleston that is perfect in all seasons. Congratulations are due to Jayne and Nigel Raffles of The Library Restaurant in Norwich as they are celebrating 25 years in the foodie business. For my money, working together for 25 years without parting company is the real achievement here! We visit the Junior Chef Academy at City College which encourages the next generation to cook and we also find out a bit more about duck egg production in Breckland as we meet farmer Gavin Fisher. Our columnists are all back and on fire as usual and we have a new addition - Rachel Birtwistle from Norwich who is starting her own allotment in a bid to provide fresh food for her family. We wish her well! Don’t miss this month’s great competition and congratulations to Annabel from Wymondham whose name came out of the hat for the Smeg Mixer. Well done! Do keep in touch with us via Facebook and Twitter - we always love to hear from you. Let us know your foodie events, and we’ll get them into our What’s On section. Happy reading!

Sara h Hard y

SARAH HARDY, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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FOOD & DRINK

Norwi ch's Jayne & Nigel Raffles on 25 years in the restau rant world

F EB RUARY 2017

13

Fine dining at

Stoke Mill

NATIONAL WINTER ALES FESTIVAL IN NORWICH

Eating out e sea by th

LOVE IN GORLESTON

WHErE TO WIne & DINE YOUR VALENTINE

ISSN 2397-1673

13

COVERY STOR 9 772397 167017

17 yummy recipes to try

06 Let’s talk chocolate with Stoke Mill as they share their fondant recipe with us! Pictures by Keiron Tovell

C O N T E N T S

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ABOUT US

03 Editor’s letter

WHAT’S ON

12 What’s happening on the food and drink front this month 14 Find out more about the National Winter Ales Festival in Norwich this month 17 Enjoy our preview of the region’s biggest and best foodie events and activities in 2017 20 Our regular news and gossip feature is essential reading

FEATURES

28 It’s the month of love so enjoy our handy round up of where to eat, drink and be romantic 56 Matt Stacey, Head Chef at The Dales, a country house hotel in North Norfolk, shares his food philosophy with us

REVIEWS

40 Emma Outten has a jolly time at The Jolly Sailors in Brancaster Staithe 43 Sarah Hardy shares one of her favourite foodie spots, JayJay’s in Gorleston, which is right on the beach 64 Mary Berry tops the list of the new cookbooks on the market this month

INTERVIEWS

22 Our new faces spotlight falls on Gold Leaf Catering, the region’s latest outside catering specialists 26 Emma Outten meets Evan Beales and Wallis Hubble, the dynamic couple behind new health, beauty and lifestyle business, Paradox 46 Jayne and Nigel Raffles celebrate 25 years in the restaurant business in Norwich. How did they do it?

REGULARS

34 This month we find out how City College Norwich starts them young with their Junior Chef Academy courses 37 Our Anglia Farmers feature takes a trip down Watercress Lane and finds out all about duck eggs 52 Lee Bye of Tuddenham Mill, near Bury St Edmunds, is our featured chef of the month 58 White House Farm, on the outskirts of Norwich, is the subject of our shop of the month feature 90 Tim Elwes of The Saracen’s Head in deepest North Norfolk tells us about his ‘local larder’ map

RECIPES

25 Matthew Johnson of Gold Leaf Catering


NIGEL AND JAYNE RAFFLES

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46 dishes up his Cromer crab bisque recipe 49 Sara Matthews, our free from writer, has a trio of dishes, including bean and mushroom pie, to banish the winter blues 55 Lee Bye from Tuddenham Mill has a rhubarb cranachan recipe 61 Telly favourite Nick Knowles shares some veggie recipes from his first cookbook, including a yummy cheesecake one 80 Our reader recipe from Dr Anissa Tse features a Chinese pork dish 87 Ellen Mary serves up super soup using kale and cannellini beans

DRINK

66 Find out more about the extensive expansion plans at Lacons Brewery, based in Great Yarmouth, where they produce the timely ale, Jack Valentine 68 Wine writer Andy Newman is taking it easy with the vino 71 Our wine expert Steve Hearnden suggests wines to go with turkey curry and roast lamb 72 Cocktails are the perfect way to celebrate Valentine’s so we round-up the best recipes our city has to offer 74 Belinda Jennings, Head Brewer at Woodforde’s Brewery, shares her thoughts on 2017 beer trends

COLUMNISTS

36 Charlotte Gurney tells us about the eight new businesses opening at the family farm 42 Sarah Ruffhead is back on the venison and mussels with vigour this month! 54 Justin Wright from Lovewell Blake urges local producers to go a-knocking at the doors of supermarkets 70 Charlie Hodson has some exciting news about this year’s PorkstockUK

TRAVEL

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43 THE TEAM

Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Senior Account Manager | 07900 823731 rachael@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Hannah McKinney Senior Account Manager | 07917 122829 hannah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

76 Kate Cleaver visits her son in New York and eats her way around the Big Apple 82 Booking a break? You need our essential holiday cottage guide!

Geoff Clark Senior Account Manager | 07776 233659 geoff@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

GROW YOUR OWN

Kate Cleaver, Belinda Jennings, Charlotte Gurney, Steve Hearnden, Justin Wright, Andy Newman, Ellen Mary, Rachel Birtwistle, Tim Elwes, Sarah Ruffhead, Sara Matthews, Charlie Hodson

86 Our kitchen gardener Ellen Mary gets a kick out of kale 88 Meet new allotment owner Rachel Birtwistle as we follow her mission to produce food for her family

COMPETITIONS

84 Win a meal for four, with wine, at Giggling Squid in Norwich, a new Thai restaurant

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHED BY

FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX

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MICROPRESS, Fountain Way, Reydon Business Park, Reydon, Suffolk, 1P18 6DH


Stoke Mill -

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Cutting the Mustard

Stoke Mill,

set in the peaceful countryside outside Norwich, is a perfect spot for romantic dining, says Sarah Hardy VISIT

www.stokemill.co.uk

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PICTURES BY

KEIRON TOVELL

visit www.keirontovell.com

THERE HAS BEEN A WATERMILL at Stoke Holy Cross, crossing the River Tas, for more than 700 years. Once the place, in the 18th century, where Jeremiah and James Colman produced their mustard, the mill has been in the same family since the 1960s, when Rio Iaccarino, originally from the Sorrento area of Italy, ran it as a very popular and high class dining spot.


Stoke Mill

ANDY RUDD AND LUDO IACCARINO

ANDY RUDD

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NOW HIS SON, Ludo, and his business partner, chef Andy Rudd, are in charge and are fast making the mill a serious player on the region’s foodie map. They took over control almost four years ago and have lavished much care and cash into renovating and refurbishing the glorious building, with Ludo explaining: ‘It has a cool, contemporary look inside, with wooden floors and muted colours used throughout.’ Yet original features remain and the overall effect is very charming, especially with the glorious grounds now bursting into life. The restaurant seats up to 64 people and there is also a private dining room which can cater for between 12 to 22 people. ‘We do bespoke events, such as weddings,’ says Ludo, ‘but we like to keep it very intimate.’ Ludo, who attended the Hotel School at City College, Norwich, and worked in the catering business for 18 years, runs the front of house side of the business while co-owner Andy, who has worked in many local restaurants and also for Gordon Ramsay, bosses a team of three in the kitchen. ‘It works well,’ says Ludo. ‘We complement each other.’ He continues: ‘Andy is very keen to keep up with current trends and developments and we have just invested in a new stove, a Control Induction one. They are made in Kent and offer a new way of cooking - you place the food directly onto the plate. Four can get around the stove so they can work efficiently, and you cut out a need for pots and pans. Many of the leading chefs have them and yes, it is part of a move towards healthier eating as less oil is needed.’ His menu changes daily although there are favourite dishes which do remain on offer, including fillet steak, scallops and pork belly. ‘Yes,’ laughs Ludo. ‘We wouldn’t dare to take them off!’ Many of Norfolk’s producers and suppliers feature on the menu, including game dealer and fishmonger Gary Howard in Norwich, meat from the Paddock’s butchers in Bunwell, fruit and veg from Easters in Norwich and local cheeses from the Cheese Truckle, a company based in Drayton, near Norwich. ‘Fresh ingredients are at the heart of everything we do,’ says Ludo, adding that the wine list comes via Norwich-based Derek Robertson who works for national wine merchants, Lea and Sandeman. Diners can choose from a seven-course taster menu or the à la carte selection and the mill opens Wednesday to Saturday for dinner and Wednesday to Sunday for lunch. Look out for the popular menu du jour, served at lunch times.


R E C I P E

Hot Chocolate Fondants

with Homemade Honeycomb, & Salted Caramel Ice Cream INGREDIENTS For the chocolate fondants 250g of unsalted butter; 250g of dark chocolate, broken into pieces; 125g of caster sugar; 70g of plain flour; 5 eggs; 5 egg yolks; plus a little cocoa powder and melted butter for lining the moulds For the honeycomb 2½tbsps of golden syrup; 100g of Demerara sugar; 1tsp of bicarbonate of soda For the ice cream 1 pint of double cream; 3 egg yolks; 100g of sugar; pinch of salt

Serves Eight METHOD For the chocolate fondants First get your moulds ready. Using upward strokes, heavily brush the melted butter all over the inside of the mould. Place the mould in the fridge or freezer. Brush more melted butter over the chilled butter, then add a good spoonful of cocoa powder into the mould. Tip the mould so the powder completely coats the butter. Tap any excess cocoa back into the jar, then repeat with the next mould. Place a bowl over a pan of barely simmering water, then slowly melt the chocolate and butter together. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir until smooth. Leave to cool for about 10 mins. In a separate bowl whisk the eggs and yolks together with the sugar until thick and pale and the whisk leaves a trail; use an electric whisk if you want. Sift the flour into the eggs, then beat together. Pour the melted chocolate into the egg mixture in thirds, beating well between each addition, until

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all the chocolate is added and the mixture is completely combined to a loose cake batter. Tip the fondant batter into a jug, then evenly divide between the moulds. The fondants can now be frozen for up to a month and cooked from frozen. Chill for at least 20 mins or up to the night before. To bake from frozen, simply carry on as stated, adding 5 mins more to the cooking time. Heat oven to 180°C. Place the fondants on a baking tray, then cook for 10-12 mins until the tops have formed a crust and they are starting to come away from the sides of their moulds. Remove from the oven, then leave to sit for 1 minute before turning out. Loosen the fondants by moving the tops very gently so they come away from the sides, easing them out of the moulds. Method for the honeycomb Place the golden syrup and sugar in a pan over a medium heat and gently caramelise. Whisk in the bicarbonate of soda and then

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pour the mixture into a grease-lined tray. Leave to set, at room temperature, for around five hours. Then break into pieces , ready to serve Method for the ice cream Bring the cream to the boil. Whisk the egg yolks in a separate bowl. Fold the cream into the egg yolks and add 50 gm of the sugar and the pinch of salt. Caramelise the remaining sugar with a little water. Allow to cool for 20 minutes and then fold into rest of mixture. Put everything into an ice cream machine and let it do its job To assemble Sit a fondant in the middle of each plate. Using a large spoon dipped in hot water, scoop a ‘quenelle’ of ice cream. Carefully place the ice cream by the side of the fondant along with a piece of honeycomb, then serve immediately

TURN OVER FOR MORE RECIPES!


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Stoke Mill -

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Stoke Mill Paella with Halibut

STOKE MILL

INGREDIENTS 100g of Norfolk Marsh Pig chorizo; 6 slices of higher welfare pancetta; 1 fennel bulb; 1 onion, finely chopped; 3 plum tomatoes; 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped; 2 red peppers, roasted; 2ltrs of organic chicken stock, hot; 2 large pinches of saffron; 1 heaped tsp of smoked paprika; 500g of paella rice; 10 king prawns; 1 small bunch flat-leafed parsley (leaves picked and chopped); 500g of mussels; 2 small squid; 2 fillets of halibut

Serves Four

PICTURES BY

KEIRON TOVELL

visit www.keirontovell.com

METHOD Put the pan on the heat. Add the sliced chorizo and fry until browned and crispy. Add the onion, fennel and garlic and cook until soft. Meanwhile infuse half the hot chicken stock with the saffron. Add the smoked paprika, rice and infused stock and leave to cook on medium heat, stirring from time to time. After 20 minutes the rice should be nearly cooked. At this point, pour in the rest of the stock along with the peas, chopped tomatoes, peppers, prawns, mussels and squid. Pan fry the halibut on both sides for 2 minutes. Finally, serve sprinkled with chopped parsley and a wedge of lemon, with the halibut on top

R E C I P E

Pan Fried Hand Dived Scallops with Pork Belly and Apple INGREDIENTS 2 scallops; 200g of pork belly; juice of 1 lime; olive oil for frying METHOD Confit the pork belly in goose fat for 4 hours on a low heat, then allow to cool. Cut into 1.5cm strips. Fry the strips in the olive oil for about 1 minute until golden, then flip them over and cook for a further minute. Fry the scallops in the olive oil for about 30 seconds until golden, then flip them over and cook for about 30 seconds more. Squeeze over the juice of the lime. Serve straight away, with a little apple purĂŠe for decoration www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Serves Two


y r a u Febr What's On

PIZZA AND TIPPLES

Enjoy a feast of fresh cooked wood-fired pizza, local ales and live entertainment on February 10 and 24 at SeaChange Arts in Great Yarmouth. Treat it as a family-friendly after school treat or as an alternative night on the town. Visit www.seachangearts.org.uk

CONSERVATION WEEKEND

If you enjoy the great outdoors there is the Deepdale Conservation Weekend in Burnham Deepdale from February 3 to 5, offering you the chance to stay for free in the Deepdale Backpackers Hostel, or on the campsite, half board provided in exchange for two days work. On Friday they will do a chilli and on Saturday they will do a bonfire and BBQ! Visit dalegatemarket.co.uk

DRINKS INCLUSIVE

Enjoy a Winter Ball at Potters Resort on February 10, featuring musical entertainment from Potters Theatre Company and the comedy team who are performing their new spring show for the first time. The evening includes accommodation, a five course dinner with selected wines, a midnight dish, breakfast, drinks and use of the Resort’s facilities. Visit www.pottersholidays.com

VEGAN SUPPER CLUB

At KindaKafe, in Norwich's Castle Meadow, there will be a KindaSocial Vegan Supper Club on February 2, and all courses will be served on sharing plates for the table. Expect to enjoy a beautiful three course menu together with a mocktail and tea/coffee to finish. Email sally@kindakafe.co.uk

TOP SECRET (Pictured below) The next Badgers Bottom Secret Supper Club, a club that picks you up and serves amazing food in a very secret location in the heart of Norfolk, takes place on February 21. Organised by Charlie Hodson, of Charlie’s Norfolk Food Heroes, the January one booked up fast, so don’t delay in booking this one, which will depart from Norwich Railway Station. Contact via Twitter @SecretDinning or call 07904 715828

SWOON AND CROON

Swoon to the sounds of Frankie Valli, Frank Sinatra, Michael Buble and much more at The Cliff Hotel in Gorleston on February 14. The evening includes a three course meal, glass of bubbly, entertainment and after party disco. Visit www.thecliffhotel.co.uk

PICTURE BY

VERY HUNGRY (Pictured right) One of the most iconic characters in children’s literature arrives in Norwich as The Very Hungry Caterpillar Show plays at Norwich Playhouse from February 11 to 13 following a West End run. The show faithfully adapts four of Eric Carle’s books in all. Follow it up by a drink, plus pastry or cake in The Playhouse Bar. Visit www.norwichplayhouse.co.uk

PAMELA RAITH

GINGERBREAD! (Pictured right) Enjoy a foodie themed performance, Gingerbread! at the Norwich Puppet Theatre on February 16. Martin is busy baking biscuits and cakes in the kitchen. As he mixes the sugars and spices, he adds a sprinkling of songs, a generous helping of humour, and some imaginatively invented puppets to tell the story of The Magic Porridge Pot and The Gingerbread Man. Visit www.puppettheatre.co.uk

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ETHICAL DINNER

Our columnist, Sara Matthews, is organising a Your Gifted Food three course ethical dinner on February 14. The cost of the ticket includes a fund matched lunch meal for someone who cannot afford to feed themselves - in collaboration with the Missing Kind Charity – at KindaKafe, in Castle Meadow. It will be 100 per cent gluten-, vegan- and alcohol-free. Visit www.eventbrite.com

AFTERNOON TEA

The 15th century Swan at Lavenham Hotel & Spa is holding a special Musical Afternoon Tea on February 22 in its elegant Gallery restaurant, when the traditional menu will have a love twist and guests will be entertained by live musicians singing classic love songs from the gallery above. Visit www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk

Harper Wells will be joining forces with the Coach and Horses on Thorpe Road in Norwich for special wine tasting evening with a selection of local cheeses on February 2. The event will hold a maximum of 30 people, so don't miss out!

Visit www.ghostwalksnorwich.co.uk

With Valentine’s Day, Shrove Tuesday and half-term all happening in February, you’ll never be short of an opportunity to eat and drink, says Emma Outten

WINE TASTING

BUFFET DINNER

Norwich Ghost Walks are co-organising a spooky buffet dinner at the Guildhall on February 10. On offer are two sumptuous courses with interspersed ghost tales followed by a phantasmagorical tour of one of the most haunted iconic buildings in Norwich.

COOKIE DECORATING

Let your children's creative talents be put to the test at The Library Restaurant in Norwich on February 16, when chef owner Nigel Raffles gives top tips on creating your own glittering candy coloured cookie to take away or just eat. All you have to do is book a table for lunch and enjoy the freshly prepared children’s menu and grown ups' menu. Visit www.thelibraryrestaurant.co.uk

THE SWAN AT LAVENHAM

And don't forget...

COOKIE DECORATING AT THE LIBRARY

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Shrove Tuesday, or Pancake Day as it’s otherwise known, takes place on February 28, so remember to get flipping on the last day of this month! You could also head to the Market Place in Great Yarmouth for pancake races and join their attempt to break a world record!


National Winter Ales Festival -

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National Winter Ales Festival comes to The Halls

FRINGE BENEFITS EMMA OUTTEN reports

THE NATIONAL WINTER ALES FESTIVAL will run for three consecutive years in Norwich, there are no tickets for it and admission is by payment on the door

Vis it ww w.n wa f.or g.u k

This month offers a chance to sample real ales in Norwich from all over the country when the


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ST ANDREW'S AND BLACKFRIARS' MEDIEVAL FRIARY HALLS

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HE HOME of the popular Norwich CAMRA Beer Festival doubles up as the new home of the National Winter Ales Festival this month. The NWAF runs from February 21 to 25 at the St Andrew's and Blackfriars' medieval friary halls, after the Norwich & Norfolk branch was awarded the festival by CAMRA. Rob Whitmore, the festival organiser, says: ‘We are proud to be hosting CAMRA’s National Winter Ales Festival here in Norwich and hope that both CAMRA members and non-members will enjoy the array of ales on offer. There will be the darker ales, more traditionally associated with a winter festival, plus a large variety of ruby and lighter hoppy ales, as well as perries and ciders.’ As always at the national festival, the Champion Winter Beers of Britain will compete to find a winner in each category and the overall winner will also be selected and announced. Local entrants include Adnams, Norfolk Brewhouse, Lacons and Woodfordes. Alongside the February festival, the CAMRA branch will be organising The Fringe from February 18 to 25, with special festival beers and events hosted across Norwich’s many pubs and brew houses - details will be available in participating pubs and on the NWAF website. The Fringe is an innovative approach to take, and is probably the first for a CAMRA festival, as it will help to extend the footprint of the national festival and encourage beer festival visitors to take a look at some of Norwich’s portfolio of pubs as part of the overall city experience. The pubs invited all stock real ale and are within a short distance of the main event at The Halls, and will reflect Norwich’s growing reputation as a real ale destination all year round as well as a during the two CAMRA festivals in February and October. Plus, the pubs will be able to offer some things that the main event would not be able to – such as being family friendly or dog friendly (after all, The Halls is an over 18's only venue). A printed guide to the Fringe will be available in pubs and at the national festival to further help people find the pubs via a street map and also a prize treasure hunt is being prepared. To enter the treasure hunt you will need to visit each pub to answer the treasure hunt clue!

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HOME-COOKED FOOD SELECTION OF REAL ALES COSY ATMOSPHERE 13 RECENTLY REFURBISHED BEDROOMS DOGS ARE WELCOME

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PICTURE BY

CHRIS TAYLOR

PURPLE PICNIC

CRAB & LOBSTER FESTIVAL

Preview of the Year

2017

MARCH

(continued overleaf)

MOTHERING SUNDAY March 26 Mothering Sunday is the perfect excuse to take your lovely mum out for lunch or afternoon tea! Check out Feast Norfolk next month for ideas of where to go.

APRIL NORFOLK SPRING FLING April 4 The Royal Norfolk Agricultural Association will host the 18th Spring Fling in the school Easter holidays, an event which attracts more than 5000 families to the Norfolk Showground each year, and features more than 70 interactive stands and exhibits, with activities aimed at children aged from four to 14. The aim is to help them gain a better understanding of where their food comes from. Visit www.springfling.rnaa.org.uk

PICTURE BY

SIMON FINLAY

EAST ANGLIAN GAME & COUNTRY FAIR April 22 and 23 The East Anglian Game & Country Fair is an annual two day, family event taking place on the Euston Estate. The Game Fair Country Kitchen features a Cookery Theatre, plus expect a wide variety of exhibitors in the Food Hall from Norfolk and across the UK. Visit www.ukgamefair.co.uk NORWICH CITY OF ALE

YOUR GLUTEN FREEDOM EXPO

BEST OF THE REST

Beyond this month, there are many more food and drink events to look forward to this year. Emma Outten teases the taste buds

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MAY

Preview of the Year 2017 NORWICH CITY OF ALE

WALK WITH A FORK May 14 The annual Walk with a Fork takes place at Kimberley Hall in Norfolk this year. To make the walk different from other charity walks, there are several food and drink stops, manned and supplied by local producers. Showcasing some of the best local produce, funds raised will be used to support local children and their families, with the help of Ormiston Families. Tickets are on sale now. Visit www.ormiston.org CROMER AND SHERINGHAM CRAB AND LOBSTER FESTIVAL May 20 and 21 The Festival is a wonderful weekend celebration of the coastal towns of Cromer and Sheringham and their essential crab and lobster fishing industries. There will be yummy cookery demonstrations from top local chefs on how to make the best of the fabulous seafood; plus local food and drink stalls. Visit www.crabandlobsterfestival.co.uk

JUNE

HOLT FESTIVAL July 22 to 30 This July will be the last for current Artistic Director Charles Pugh. The first highlights are due to be announced later this month but Charles promises to bring performers of the same quality as his first two events as well as a few surprises! Once again Holt will become a magnet for tourists visiting North Norfolk with a plethora of excellent places to eat. Visit www.holtfestival.org

CHRIS TAYLOR PICTURE BY

NORWICH CITY OF ALE May 25 to June 4 Norwich City of Ale is a 10-day celebration of local pubs, breweries and real ale taking place throughout the fine city. Norwich's brewing heritage began with Benedictine monks making ales in Cathedral Close in the 11th century – and the city hasn't stopped drinking since. Visit cityofale.org.uk

JULY

PURPLE PICNIC June 12 to 18 The Purple Picnic in aid of Norfolk’s child bereavement charity, Nelson’s Journey is back again. The fundraising week has helped to raise more than £12,000 in the last two years for bereaved children living in Norfolk, and the week is going to be jam packed with picnics. Contact Sarah on sarah@nelsonsjourney.org.uk to get your own Purple Picnic pack. Visit www.nelsonsjourney.org.uk

CRAB & LOBSTER FESTIVAL

NORWICH FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL June 18 For the second year running, the CozensHardy Norwich Food & Drink Festival will take place on Father’s Day and will once again take place in and around The Forum and St Peter’s Street. Confirmed so far are the Battle of the Bangers, the Producers' Street Market, a Cookery Demonstration Theatre from Charlie’s Norfolk Food Heroes, and the Adnams Beer Garden. Visit www.norfolkfoodanddrink.com

PICTURE BY

JAMES ROUSE

ROYAL NORFOLK SHOW

THE ROYAL NORFOLK SHOW June 28 and 29 The Royal Norfolk Show is the largest two day agricultural show in the UK and with around 80,000 visitors each year it’s one of the county’s most hotly anticipated events. The food hall focuses on top quality local food and drink producers and show-goers will be able to tempt their taste buds by visiting more than 70 food and drink stalls. Visit www.royalnorfolkshow.rnaa.org.uk

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WELLS CARNIVAL July 28 to August 6 As well as live music events and lots more besides, there will be a Food and Craft Day held on the Buttlands – a summer fair packed with stalls offering food from around the world and closer to home, plus crafts and entertainment. Carnival Day itself will be on August 5 this year. www.wellscarnival.co.uk WORSTEAD FESTIVAL July 29 and 30 Celebrating rural life, the Worstead Festival has a dedicated food marquee promoting all that’s good and special in local food and drink. Plus it has award winning chefs demonstrating in the state of the art demo kitchen. Visit www.worsteadfestival.org

AUGUST WAYLAND AGRICULTURAL SHOW August 6 The Taste of Norfolk Marquee will once again be a Show favourite, both with the public and the exhibitors – especially with so many unique Norfolk products now being produced and people becoming more interested in what their food contains and where their food comes from. www.waylandshow.com


SEPTEMBER

ALDEBURGH FOOD FESTIVAL September 23 and 24 A celebration of Suffolk's thriving food and drink scene, the Festival takes place in the beautiful setting of Snape Maltings. More than 90 food and drink producers from Suffolk, many from just a few miles away, all gather to sell their produce including raw milk, organic vegetables, sourdough bread, award winning beer and spirits from sponsors Adnams, cider from Aspall and delicious street food. Visit www.aldeburghfoodanddrink.co.uk MOVEABLE FEAST September 19 Enjoy a wonderful dining experience at Lloyd Addison’s Moveable Feast, and sample the delights of three different Norwich restaurants, all in one evening. What’s more, with each tasty course, you’ll be making a difference to the lives of those affected by Parkinson’s. Tickets will be available from March 1. Visit www.moveablefeastnorwich.org

ARTHUR BROWN

AYLSHAM FOOD FESTIVAL Date TBC The Aylsham Food Festival, organised by Slow Food Aylsham, normally takes place at the end of September/beginning of October. It includes a country market, a gala dinner at the local High School, prepared and served by students, Aylsham Farmers’ Market, plus Saturday activities in the Town Hall and Market Place which have in the past featured cooking theatres with top Norfolk chefs. www.slowfoodaylsham.org.uk

NORFOLK SPRING FLING

NORTH NORFOLK FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL Date TBC The North Norfolk Food and Drink Festival normally takes place on the first weekend in September, in the spectacular setting of the Walled Garden at Holkham Hall. Featuring an evergrowing team of local food and drink producers who grow, rear, produce, supply and sell food in North Norfolk. Visit www.northnorfolkfoodfestival. co.uk

NORWICH COCKTAIL WEEK October 7 to 14 For a celebration of Norwich cocktail culture, look no further than Norwich Cocktail Week. Last year Hawthorn on St Benedicts Street was named best bar – who will be the best this year? The week cunningly includes two Saturday nights so you can make the most of the special wristbands, which normally go on sale in August and are posted out at the end of September. Visit www.norwichcocktailweek.com

JACQUI DANKWORTH

NORTH NORFOLK RESTAURANT WEEK Date TBC North Norfolk Restaurant Week normally takes place late September/ early October. It is North Norfolk’s largest dining event, a culinary celebration of the vibrant restaurant scene, fine food, and the people who produce it. Launched across a single week in the autumn of 2013, the event grew to span a two week period in 2014. In 2016 there were an amazing 46 participating restaurants. Visit www.northnorfolk restaurantweek.co.uk

OCTOBER YOUR GLUTEN FREEDOM EXPO October 1 The next Your Gluten Freedom Expo will take place at The Forum in Norwich, where there will be more than 50 stalls including street food. Everything sold is gluten free with many other free from options. A cookery stage will host guest chefs all day, sharing their free from recipes tips and advice on free from cooking. Visit www.yourglutenfreedom.co.uk OKTOBERFEST NORWICH October 6 and 7 City centre venue OPEN Norwich is bringing Oktoberfest to Norwich in 2017. For two days the iconic building at the heart of Norwich on Bank Plain will be transformed into a German themed Bierkeller. This two day event will bring authentic Bavarian beer, food and entertainment and the venue will become the home of one of the biggest celebrations ever seen in the Fine City. Visit https://oktoberfest2017. eventbrite.co.uk

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NORWICH BEER FESTIVAL October 23 to 28 Preparations for the popular Norwich Beer Festival, which attracts around 19,000 festival goers, are already underway. And the annual competition to find the new logo for the 40th Norwich Beer Festival has already been launched by members of the Norwich & Norfolk branch of CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale). The deadline for competition entrants is March 27. Visit www.norwichcamra.org.uk

NOVEMBER CHRISTMAS SWITCH-ON November 16 Enjoy a parade with Father Christmas through Norwich city centre, entertainment in front of City Hall and the switching on of the city centre lights, before tucking into some delicious street food in front of The Forum. www.norwich.gov.uk

DECEMBER BREWERY OPEN WEEKEND December 2 and 3 Enjoy a weekend of festive cheer at Woodforde’s in Woodbastwick, when the brewery opens its doors. There will be beer and wine tastings, brewery tours and Christmas gift inspiration. www.woodfordes.co.uk

NIGEL BOY SYER & OLLY DAY


Ne ws and Gossi p

MOBILE KITCHEN ON THE MOVE

Champion of great tastes in the great outdoors, Oliver Roberts will be based at Holkham Studios, as of this month, running his hospitality brand, Camp Champ Cook. The Director of Camp Champ UK has created a specialist 4x4vehicle and kitchen dedicated to fine outdoor cookery, and specialise in field sports hospitality and culinary masterclasses. www.campchampcook.co.uk

NEW FARM SHOP SHOWCASE ONE TO WATCH

Congratulations go to Chef Ben Handley and his wife Sarah after The Duck Inn, at Stanhoe, was announced ‘one to watch’ in the Morning Advertiser’s Top 50 Gastropubs for 2017. The Morning Advertiser is the foremost publication for the hospitality trade since its inception in 1794. The family-owned and run Duck Inn on the North Norfolk coast has become a true dining destination. Visit www.duckinn.co.uk

Hindringham based Norfolk Brewhouse has teamed up with another North Norfolk company, H Banham Ltd – the guardian of the Maris Otter grain – to create a bar at this month’s National Winter Ales Festival, allowing visitors to taste what makes Norfolk malt, its growers, maltsters and brewers so very special. Visit nwaf.org.uk

NEWS ROUND-UP

This year is already shaping up to be a good one for food & drink good news stories in this part of this region. Emma Outten rounds it all up A GREAT HONOUR (Pictured right)

Across the border in Cambridgeshire, the highly anticipated Steak & Honour restaurant in Cambridge is now officially open! As the first bricks and mortar site, it joins the fleet of distinctive vintage burger vans which are famous around the city. The founders, David and Leo, with their Michelin starred backgrounds, demand the right ingredients sourced from people who care. Visit www.steakandhonour.co.uk

FRITTON UPDATE

The Fritton Arms, part of the glorious Somerleyton estate, has a new head chef, David Tumbler. David is well known in the area, having worked at many leading hotels and restaurants including The Cliff in Gorleston. He has also spent time at the renowned River Cafe in London. Expect exciting times ahead, especially as he has access to all that great estate produce. www.frittonarms.co.uk

Yare Valley Oils has opened a new self-service farm shop on the farm in Surlingham, near Norwich. You can choose from all of their infusions on tap with a refill bottle option, as well as all their other oily goods, and they also have their own farm reared beef, steaks, joints, mince and more and farm grown potatoes and fire wood. Visit www.yarevalleyoils.co.uk

COOKING WITH KATE

Norfolk GBBO contestant Kate Barmby treated shoppers at Gerald Giles in Norwich to a grand selection of goodies at a pre Christmas event. Mini Xmas puds and dainty Xmas lunch canapes (yes, the whole lot) were on the menu which drew gasps of appreciation from all those attending. The family-run business has a great working kitchen and also offers a wide cross section of cooking essentials, from those trendy Smeg toasters to top-of-the-range Miele cookers. Visit www.geraldgiles.co.uk


New Executive He ad Chef

BEST BY FAR

Congratulations to Bullards Norwich Gin, Norfolk’s first and only gin distillery, which has been named the UK’s Best London Dry Gin 2017 in the World Drinks Awards. Not a bad achievement given the competition and the fact that they have only been trading for 12 months! Visit www.bullardsspirits.co.uk

OINK OINK

ANDREW CLEGG

Look out for the second edition of Oink 2, an in-house newspaper produced by The Boars in Spooner Row, near Wymondham. It is distributed to thousands of homes in Norwich and South Norfolk and tells us all about what the pub has to offer, including a great lunch offer. And we’re in it! Say no more! We love print publications!

There’s a new Executive Head Chef at Norwich’s first and only rooftop bar and restaurant, Rooftop Gardens. Over the past 18 years, Andrew Clegg has gained a wealth of experience and expertise within the culinary sector - holding positions in numerous leading Norfolk restaurants over this time, including the Recruiting Sergeant in Horstead, The Last Wine Bar and By Appointment in Norwich. Visit www.rooftop gardens.co.uk

FARMYARD FIRST

We’re looking forward to trying Norwich’s first ‘Bistronomy’ style eatery, Farmyard Restaurant on St Benedicts Street in Norwich. A mash up of a relaxed 'bistro' experience but using the same top quality produce as top notch 'gastronomic' fine dining establishments, Farmyard is the brainchild of Norfolk boy Andrew Jones, who has trained in London under Michelin starred chefs. Visit www.farmyardrestaurant.com

NEW FACE

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A new face heads the kitchen team at Warwick St Social in Norwich’s Golden Triangle. New Head Chef George Dack, aged 24, was raised in Norwich and still lives in the city where his previous role was as Head Chef at The Last Wine Bar. George has been snapped up by Great British Menu Chef Patron Daniel Smith. Visit www.warwickstsocial.co.uk

Adnams has just unveiled ‘Food for Thought’, a social enterprise for local schools, encouraging the students to grow fresh produce and gain business experience by selling them onto restaurants. It is currently working with Flegg High School in Norfolk, which is supplying potatoes and herbs to The White Horse at Blakeney, and Wenhaston Primary School in Suffolk. Visit www.adnams.co.uk

WINE & DINE EXPERIENCE

We’re already looking forward to next month’s informal evening of fun, food and French wine in the company of Feast Norfolk’s very own columnist Steve Hearnden from Tastebuds Wines, as well as James Conway, Head Chef at Barnham Broom. Wine and food pairings are very on-trend right now so well done to both for getting together to help us all learn and enjoy this aspect of dining. Visit www.barnham-broom.co.uk

ALCOHOL-FREE BEER (Pictured right) Who tried the new alcohol-free beer from St Peter's Brewery, based near Bungay, during Dry January? Called St Peter's Without, the new brew is malty, full-bodied and has 25 per cent fewer calories than a standard pint! It's now on sale in pubs, supermarkets and the like so give it a try. Visit www.stpetersbrewery.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

COMING SOON

We’re looking forward to the spring opening of The Harper, a brand new boutique hotel, spa and wedding venue in what was once the Langham Glass factory. All-comers will be able to sip cool cocktails in Stanley’s Bar, or, for serious culinary credentials, they can head upstairs to The Stove, named as a nod to the skills of acclaimed Chef Patron Fernando Stovell. Visit www.bijouweddingvenues.co.uk


Gold Leaf Catering

www.goldl eafca terin g.co.u k

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N E W

F A C E S

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KATIE THOMAS & MATTHEW JOHNSON

The Midas Touch

Golden couple Matthew Johnson and his partner Katie Thomas have joined forces to start their own outside catering company SARAH HARDY finds out more

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

summer, formally beginning work in November. Matthew, who has worked in many leading restaurants and hotels across the world, including the Michelin-starred Danesfield House in Marlow, says: ‘Yes, it has been busy and we are delighted with how we have been received - we are all about fresh, seasonal ingredients. We live in such a great area for produce, from the fruits to all the meats - I can’t get over the great meats!’ He adds: ‘I don’t like over-worked food, I like the flavours to speak for themselves. And I love doing everything, really, from baking my own bread to just about everything else.’ The pair are looking forward to catering at weddings and are already thinking of ideas for a ‘tapas’ style one they have booked in for later in the year. ‘People are using outside caterers more and more - for, say, anniversary parties or Christenings,’ Katie says. ‘It’s always lovely to be a part of people’s celebrations and help their dreams become realities.’

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Matthew, who is in his 30s, says: ‘We can also supply drinks, recommending what wine you need with our dishes.’ They also see corporate events as a key part of their business and are very aware of dietary requirements. ‘Yes, we can tailor menus to suit particular allergies,’ says Katie, who grew up in Dorset and whose father is a master baker. They are both dedicated foodies and enjoy keeping up-to-date with new trends and ideas. ‘We eat out a lot,’ says Matthew. ‘And we travel to try new restaurants - although we love going to North Norfolk as there are some great places to sample on the coast.’ He lists Tom Kerridge as one of his favourite chefs saying: ‘He does good, honest food but isn’t afraid to experiment which is a bit like me. There’s is always something to learn, something new to try and I love being creative - producing a really eye-catching feast for everyone to enjoy is very satisfying.’

RECIPE OVERLEAF

IT’S THE PERFECT UNION: chef Matthew Johnson and front of house expert Katie Thomas are not only getting married this year but they also just started their own business, Gold Leaf Catering. The pair, who live in Mattishall, near Dereham, and have a commercial kitchen in Watton, are determined to offer something that little bit different. ‘We provide a really personal service, working with people right from the very start and making sure that we help them with every step along the way,’ says Katie, who has years of experience working front of house in restaurants and hotels. Matthew, a trained chef who ran his own restaurant in Essex for two years, adds: ‘We hope that we do things a little differently; we really want to capture what people are aiming for - and we like to offer the complete package - from me in the kitchen to Katie running the actual event.’ The couple relocated to Norfolk to be near family members and started planning their business last


* BR EE FF F O

THE WELLS CRAB HOUSE

*Fish 'n'’ Vintwoe courses

Tuesday to Thursday - Tables of two having (lunch or dinner) receive a FREE bottle of Cintila Wine (Not available Valentines or School Holidays)

38-40 Freeman street WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA CALL US ON 01328 710456 WWW.WELLSCRABHOUSE.CO.UK

*available until 28/02/2017

SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Woodgate Nursery is a traditional plant nursery offering friendly advice & everything an experienced gardener or a budding allotment holder might need! Having explored the nursery why not relax in Purdy’s Tearoom, delightfully converted from a former potting shed, where you can indulge in delicious homemade cakes and light lunches?

Cawston Road, Aylsham, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 6UH 01263 731510 www.woodgatenursery.co.uk

Boowk nso cape to

E orfolk North N

CHURCH HOUSE, BURNHAM MARKET

Laid back luxury holiday retreats

Enjoy fine dining, coastal walks, fabulous shops - all that North Norfolk has to offer Picture shows Church House, Burnham Market, sleeps 4 - stunning interiors, mod cons, town centre location

www.barefootretreats.co.uk


Gold Leaf Catering -

R E C I P E

MATTHEW JOHNSON

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CROMER CRAB and LOBSTER BISQUE with Cromer Crab Crostini

SERV

FOUERS

INGREDIENTS Crab and Lobster Bisque 600g of lobster heads; 400g of Cromer crab bodies; 1tsp of olive oil; half a small onion, chopped; half a small carrot, chopped; half a stick of celery, chopped; pinch of saffron threads; 1 small sprig of thyme; ½ tsp of fennel seeds; 60g of tomato purée; small pinch of cayenne pepper; 100ml of brandy; 100ml of white wine; ½ litre of fish stock; ½ litre of chicken stock; ½ litre of double cream; sea salt Crab Crostini 4 thin slices of ciabatta; 250g of white crab meat; 75g of crème fraiche; 2tbsp of olive oil; 1 tomato (skin and seeds removed then finely diced); small handful of chopped coriander (optional); zest and juice of one lime

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

METHOD Bisque 1. Crush the lobster heads and crab bodies with a rolling pin until they break up 2. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and start to roast the lobster and crab bones. Once they have started to roast, add the onion, carrot and celery and cook over a low heat. When the vegetables have browned, add the thyme, bay leaf and saffron threads, stirring occasionally so they do not stick to the pan 3. After roughly 5 minutes, stir in the tomato purée and cayenne pepper and tomato paste. Add the brandy and wine, and flambé to burn off

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the alcohol 4. Add the fish and chicken stock and bring to the boil. Season lightly with sea salt. Simmer for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Be sure to skim off any scum 5. Add the cream and blend until smooth and then pass through a fine strainer Crostini 1. Lightly drizzle the olive oil over ciabatta 2. Lightly chargrill the ciabatta on each side until crispy (season with rock salt) 3. In a separate bowl mix the rest of the ingredients and season to taste 4. Spread the mix over the crostini

Pla ce bisq ue in your chos en bow l and pop the cros tini on the side


PICTURES BY

KEIRON TOVELL

visit www.keirontovell.com

P R O F I L E

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www.paradoxliving.co.uk

Health-conscious couple Evan Beales and Wallis Hubble are about to launch health, beauty and lifestyle business Paradox in a converted barn outside Norwich. Emma Outten is converted

MAKING A STATEMENT

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Paradox

VISIT

NOW, PERSONAL TRAINING is all well and good on its own, but Evan Beales and his partner Wallis Hubble have decided to take a holistic take on things, by launching their own health, beauty and lifestyle business just outside of Norwich. Paradox is an eco-luxury business that offers innovative personal training along with organic wellness, beauty and skin care, based in a barn conversion just outside of Norwich (Manor Farm Barns, in Framingham Pigot). Lifestyle coach Wallis introduces the business: ‘By using an incomparable holistic approach, we construct individualised, exercise and lifestyle management programmes to nourish our clients’ unique makeup. ‘Taking into account all aspects of life - nutrition, posture, wellness, stress, sleep, movement, inflammation, core function - we make sure we have all areas covered so our clients can reach their maximum potential.’ Each client receives weekly private and semi-private training sessions along with a nutritional programme, recipe ideas, and all the support they could possible need.

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Evan is perfectly qualified on the training side of the business, as his mother Eva Howkins established Fitness 2000 in Great Yarmouth a good 20 years ago, with Evan quickly joining the family business a couple of years later. However, with his experience in the health and fitness industry, running a large health club and working with hundreds of clients, he recognised a huge problem: results were few and far between. He suggests there’s a paradox: ‘You don’t have to work that hard in the gym if the other elements of your life are OK – if you’re eating right; you’re sleeping right; and your stress levels are right - all these things are important as well.’ He says: ‘Nutritionally we work on people’s diets and their metabolic typing working out what suits certain people, as we are all different – you and I could eat exactly the same diet for a year and we’d have completely different results from it so we tailor-make nutritional plans – it’s not a one size fits all approach.’ Wallis adds: ‘There’s the scientific side of it and then I’m the one who gives the


EVAN BEALES & WALLIS HUBBLE

recipes to clients, using local, organic and wholefoods.’ Does she have favourite recipe? Wallis replies: ‘Something like turkey meatballs with a red cabbage and kale slaw; or almond and clementine cake.’ Although she adds: ‘If somebody comes and wants to lose three or four stone and feel better we’re not instantly going to give them a cake recipe to go home and cook but if they’ve got children, we base everything on the 80 to 20 rule: if you’re good 80 per cent of the time then 20 per cent of the time, if you have a piece of cake that’s fine – I’ll give you a recipe for a healthy cake.’ She’s certainly not an advocate of cutting things out completely. ‘It’s about quality - we don’t cut caffeine out but recommend you drink organic, black coffee.’ She is keen on locally sourced vegetables and meat, wherever possible, and personally recommends using Riverford Organics, nearby Green Pastures Farm Shop, Mills & Son butchers in Southwold, and local raw dairy farms. The nutritional programmes are family friendly, with Wallis adding:

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

CASE STUDY CHRISTIAN ADAMS' world changed after injuring his back. Here he describes how Evan helped him: ‘I went for physiotherapy every two weeks, tried three different physiotherapists and also used the NHS for a short while in the hope of curing my bad back. Some of the treatments felt like they had no benefit, or just eased the pain for a few days. I had given up and accepted that I would just have to live with a bad back. Then I met Evan whose exercise and nutritional plan simply changed my life. After three and a half months, I couldn’t believe it. I could now turn over in bed and was regaining confidence in my life. It’s now two years on since my first session with Evan and I feel great. I have moved to Cornwall, I cycle, surf, have a physical job again and I am once again enjoying my life.’

‘Our approach can help people with various issues: weight loss, pain management, lack of mobility, fitness aspirations, health complications - the list truly is endless.’ From the nutritional perspective, they tend to focus on anti-inflammatory foods. ‘We also have a treatment room which is a little different to the norm. We concentrate on being natural, organic and eco-friendly, seeking only superior products that offer outrageous results. ‘Some of our therapies are unique to East Anglia, but we also offer slightly more recognisable treatments. We use clean-living brands such as Dr Alkaitis, Gayllia, Deborah Lippmann, Vita Liberata, Bamford, Honoré des Prés – these are just a few we love.’ Evan and Wallis make the perfect partnership, having met five years ago, on the DJ circuit. However their first meeting was perhaps not as rock and roll as one might suspect! Evan recalls: ‘We sat there drinking herbal tea, talking about fitness and health.’ Wallis adds: ‘Evan loves exercise and I love food and health - the combination of us balances things out.’


Bes t Beach Experience

HOLKHAM

Visit www.holkham.co.uk OK, so there may still be a nip in the air, but that shouldn’t stop you from grabbing hold of your loved one’s hand and going for a wintry walk along the beach. As for which one, it has to be Holkham, one of the most unspoilt and beautiful stretches of sand in the country (after all, it was good enough for Gwyneth Paltrow to walk across, in the closing scenes of Shakespeare in Love). Follow it up with lunch or dinner in The Victoria Inn, at the gateway of Holkham Hall. Enjoy game from the family shoot and venison from the Holkham Estate’s herd of Fallow Deer in the light and airy orangery.

Romantic Norfolk -

F E A T U R E

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LOV E I S I N T H E A I R February is the month to pamper your loved one with either a night away, a special meal or something a little bit different. Here we make bold with a few romantic options - all involving food, of course!

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IGHT

N OVER

STAY

THE RED ROOM

The Red Room, Strattons Hotel, Ash Close, Swaffham, www.strattonshotel.com A night away is always a winner, especially if it involves a decent dinner, too. This country house hotel, set in a Palladian-style villa in the heart of the market town, has a real boho feel to it, with glorious artwork, sumptuous furnishings pet cats, and the talented Julia Hetherton as head chef. The extravagant Red Room boasts a Jacobean four-poster, open fire and private courtyard garden so really is the last word in decadent nights away. Candle-lit dinners are divine and be sure to include a pud - Julia’s forte. We love it!

NO33 THORNHAM

Located at Thornham Deli on the main A149 coast road; visit www.33hunstanton.co.uk With two suites above Thornham Deli, breakfasts don’t get much better than this. No33 Thornham offers a lovely boutique bed and breakfast experience, for you and your other half, following a very romantic night together in this stylish sanctuary. For those who prefer a more leisurely start to the day, breakfast in bed is available. Smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels or croissants with jam, both served with fresh fairtrade tea or cafetiere coffee, can be served in-room by prior arrangement. www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

FOR THE MORNING AFTER BREAKFAST

N o33 Th ornha m


THE WALLOW

Exchange Street, Norwich The basement bar at The Wallow has to be the perfect place for a romantic date over a glass of wine or two. It’s very dark and discreet, with a leather sofa to lounge on - an ideal secluded location for a pre or post dinner glass of wine with abundant mood lighting and wine on tap, thanks to the self service wine dispensers!

FOR A ROMANTIC GLASS OF WINE

PICTURE BY

HANNAH WHALEY

ST PETER’S HALL

THE WALLOW

South Elmham, near Bungay, www.stpetershallsuffolk.co.uk Now the Library Bar is something rather special. Set in a stunning 13th century hall, the bar serves tipples from the onsite brewery and you know what they say - beer tastes best on the very spot that it is brewed! Who are we to argue? It is a tucked away spot, complete with its own moated gardens, has lovely views across the open fields, and has a good menu if you get peckish.

For a Drop of Real Ale Rom ance 30


Romantic Norfolk -

F E A T U R E

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CROMER PIER

Visit www.cromerpier.co.uk This landmark takes on its own atmosphere at this time of year, with sea mists creating a very romantic feel! Grab yourself a bottle of Adnams’ Prosecco and stroll out towards the theatre and simply go for it! Or book a table at Tides Restaurant for unrivalled views and fab fish and chips - get mushy with each other over mushy peas!

Love a Cup of Tea?

Where to Propose

CONGHAM HALL HOTEL

For a Rom antic Cock tail

CONGHAM HALL

Grimston, near King’s Lynn, visit www.conghamhallhotel.co.uk Afternoon tea is so very on trend at present and one of the most luxurious places to sample it is at Congham Hall Hotel in west Norfolk. Set in around 30 acres, the Georgian hotel has two lovely rooms, the library and the sitting room, where afternoon tea is served in very opulent surroundings. Think open fireplaces, wonderful wallpapers, fresh flowers and plenty of sofas to sink into! Afternoon tea is a joy, with a deluxe version at £30 which includes a vital glass of fizz and all the trimmings.

MASSEY & CO BAR & LOUNGE

Market Place, King’s Lynn; visit www.dukesheadhotel.com This new cocktail bar, at the Duke's Head Hotel, is fast becoming the place for chilled meets, smart eats and cool beats. Put on a cocktail dress and sample some of the lovely cocktails, featuring Wild Knight Vodka, English Whisky, Norfolk Gin, and more. It also does a tipsy afternoon tea for two, with a sweet treats selection for your sweetheart and a cocktail of your choice.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Best Spa Experience for Two

THE HOSTE

The Green, Burnham Market; visit www.thehoste.com The Hoste has put together a lovely Valentines package for anyone looking to treat their loved one. Guests can choose to stay in one of the luxurious rooms and enjoy a candle-lit romantic dinner in one of the award-winning restaurants, topped off with a relaxing Beauty Spa treatment, before snuggling up by the roaring log fire in the traditional panelled bar. The package is available for midweek and weekend stays.


Award winning establishments in North Norfolk

The White Horse

ait

ca

he

n

boutique luxurious classic contemporary heart of norfolk award winning restaurant afternoon tea cocoes café deli self catering Luxury without sacrifice to the environment ash close swaffham norfolk pe37 7nh 01760 723845 enquiries@strattonshotel.com www.strattonshotel.com

lors

with self catering, restaurant and café deli

Jolly Sai

B ra

strattons hotel

The

BRANCASTER STAITHE www.whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk

s ter S t

BRANCASTER STAITHE www.jollysailorsbrancaster.co.uk

LETHERINGSETT www.kingsheadnorfolk.co.uk

ab

Is

ig E V IC e n LI USon th M ella

by

ht

THE GIN TRAP INN is a traditional and cosy 17th century coaching inn. Serving delicious homemade fare and offering luxurious rooms. Open from 11:30am to late daily

THE MENU INCLUDES:

STA RTER

GT SHARING BOARD FOR TWO

Chargrilled vegetables marinated in garlic & herb oil, with a selection of Marsh Pig charcuterie, homemade breads, smoked paprika & cumin hummus (v & gf options available)

MAIN BLACKENED FLAT IRON STEAK

red chimichurri, charred carrots, crispy rosemary sweet potatoes & dressed rocket (best served M/R) (gf)

DESSERT

RED VELVET FONDANT

6 High Street, Ringstead, Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 5JU www.thegintrapinn.co.uk

raspberry and cream ice cream, crushed frozen raspberries Full menu available on our website


AU RA N T

OF FE R*

VA LE AT NT TI IN D ES E’ RE S ST

PERFEC T

memoraFOR A propos ble al!

AWARD-WINNING VICTORIAN PIER UNRIVALLED & BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF THE NORTH NORFOLK COASTLINE

Cromer Pier & Tides Restaurant the uniquely romantic place to eat and drink this Valentine’s Day

*Valentine’s offer

Romantics can enjoy fish and chips - with mushy peas shaped into a heart; a glass of fizz each, along with a shared ice cream sundae accompanied by heart shaped candy floss, all for £36 per couple from Friday February 10 to Tuesday February 14 inclusive, from 12 noon to 4pm

To book a table

www.cromerpier.co.uk

in our Restaurant please call 01263 511236 ... or why not just pop in on a romantic impulse


Junior Chef Academy -

C I T Y

C O L L E G E

N O R W I C H

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SATURDAY KITCHEN Aspiring chefs as young as 10 can get a taste for cooking, thanks to a Saturday course at City College Norwich. Emma Outten meets Jane Bill, lecturer on the Junior Chef Academy leisure course


JANE BILL

PARENTS must really look forward to Saturday lunchtimes when the young wannabe chef in the family comes home from the Junior Chef Academy at City College Norwich! Jane Bill is a lecturer at the college and has been involved in Junior Chef Academy for the past eight years. She says: ‘They cook a variety of dishes and I try and make it as fun for them as possible - it’s food that they can take home their parents, so I usually try and do a main course and a dessert, something savoury and something sweet, every week. I’ll do a variety of main course dishes, involving meat, fish and vegetables, and might do a theme, such as around Europe or the world. Plus I’ll do lighter dishes for the summer - I try to stick to seasonal dishes as much as possible.’ The 10 week leisure course is primarily aimed at youngsters who want to learn to cook and bake with imagination and style. And the academy provides expert tuition in the professional environment of the college’s industry-standard training kitchens, guided by experienced chefs from the renowned Hotel School. It’s open to any young person aged 10 to 15 with an interest in cooking. ‘We do a summer school as well,’ says Jane (the summer school runs for five mornings, from Monday to Friday). She stresses: ‘I want it to be food they actually want to try – it’s no good making food they’re not interested in and I don’t just want to do cakes because they need to learn to do other things, although they all want to do baking. They all watch Bake Off - they want to do their own bake offs.’ www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

Head of the Hotel Schoo l Steve Thorpe has this update:

WE’VE RECUPERATED from Christmas, although a lot of our students worked over the holidays, having spent 15 weeks with us and developed real employability skills. They are now getting back into learning and the routine of 9am to 10.30pm, as Debut Restaurant has reopened. We’ve had great industry input, thanks to four Chef Takeover Dinners beginning last month, with Charlie Hodson, Chris Coubrough, Richard Hughes (and Nigel Raffles coming up). And this month we’ve got our takeover of Holiday Inn Norwich North, building on our relationship with the Holiday Inn Group (plus a group of students are working three days a week at the Holiday Inn Norwich City, Carrow Road, and coming to college two days a week - there’s no other college in the UK that offers that type of opportunity). Also, our relationship with Norwich International Airport is continuing, and we’ve forged links with Potters Leisure. The first practical exams start the first week in March but we’ve also got great things to look forward to, including Valentine’s Day, which will keep our catering business busy. Beyond that we are looking forward to Easter, plus we’ve already started interviewing people who wish to join us in September!

Some aspiring chefs may just come for a term, but others come for years, with Jane commenting: ‘Quite a few of our students started as Junior Chefs the rest will come to learn how to cook so they can be more prepared for when they start cooking for themselves.’ Jane, who has three children, aged 19, 21, and 23, says of one of her sons: ‘He’s watched me so often he’s remembered how I do things and has picked things up.’ Although Jane always wanted to go to catering college, she ended up doing a secretarial course instead, followed by a PR internship in London. ‘But I always had part time jobs in restaurants - that was always my passion: I worked in France for a couple of summers, in restaurants, then I went to live in America for eight years, and worked in PR, organising events and catering before cooking for people privately; I then spent two years in Hong Kong, setting up a catering business with a friend, before coming back to the UK.’ What is it about teaching youngsters as young as 10 that she enjoys? ‘They are so enthusiastic, as they are at that age before they are influenced by too many other things - it’s just so rewarding.’ She has this message for parents thinking of sending their children to the academy: ‘Even if it’s just for a term they’ll be quite surprised by what the children produce. It’s an opportunity to cook proper food and it’s also a chance for youngsters to make friends in a different environment to school. I’ve seen shy young people grow into confident young people.’

www.ccn.ac.uk


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C O L U M N

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WHAT’S GROWING ON THE FARM?

It’s all go at Charlotte Gurney’s family farm this month as eight new businesses open their doors WHITE HOUSE FARM, BLUE BOAR LANE, NORWICH TEL 01603 419357 OR VISIT WWW.NORWICH-PYO.CO.UK

First Farmers’ Market of 2017: Saturday 18th February

White House Farm

AS THE FARMER’S WIFE, if you’d had said to me a few years back, when we sold our first slices of less than perfect Victoria sponge in a ropey hut amongst the strawberries, that in 2017 we’d be adding eight new businesses to the recently created café, farmshop and butchery at White House Farm, I would have laughed and thought it not possible. But here we are in a new year, opening our doors to a range of independent businesses: hairdresser, beautician, gift shop, florist, dance studio and, fingers crossed, a pre school nursery. It’s our biggest leap yet and we are so excited to welcome new faces to the farm and expand the WHF family. We hope these businesses will strengthen our already superbly convenient location on the edge of Norwich, enabling our existing café and farmshop to thrive. For me, the glue that holds all this together and makes diversifying the business so rewarding is the people. Each and every person involved in the project, from the creators to carpenters to sign writers

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to the BBC Norfolk Radio DJs for showcasing the farm on air and to our customers cheering us on as we tread into the unknown, they have all formed part of a great project. We are proud to have forged these relationships and are looking forward opening the WHF Mecca this month. So come and have a gander and see all the developments for yourself and welcome all these newcomers. Have a coffee in the café and ponder what you’ll achieve in 2017; it might be more than you think!


Watercress Lane -

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www.water cressl ane.co.uk

Watercress Lane near Dereham is one of the UK’s leading producers of duck eggs. Emma Outten chats to manager Gavin Fisher about how they are setting the standard in safety, quality and traceability


"I got into tro ubl e wh en I firs t sta rte d as I wr ote a pie ce on the we bsi te say ing tha t the bir ds we re THE mo st imp ort ant me mb ers of sta ff!"

g

AVIN FISHER cannot remember the last time he ate a hen’s egg. Perhaps that’s not surprising, as he’s the manager of Watercress Lane Duck Eggs in Mattishall, near Dereham, where they house more than 30,000 Pekin Ducks, producing more than 7.5 million eggs each year. ‘Originally we started with around 7000 birds,’ recalls Gavin. The farm is primarily a hatchery (Burwell Hatchery) and has been trading for many years, though - due to liquidation of its largest client - there was an immediate

Saving time and money for farmers across East Anglia

need to find another avenue for the thousands of, suddenly, surplus eggs. ‘Eight or nine years ago we looked into the potential for selling Duck Eggs for eating purposes which is where Watercress Lane came about,’ says Gavin. ‘Since then we’ve grown bit by bit and I’m pretty certain we’re the largest producer in the UK now.’ The eggs are hand collected by the team every single morning, 365 days of the year. ‘Paul and Melandy, the directors, are my future in laws,’ continues Gavin. ‘I joined the company around six or seven years ago and have ended up as general manager.

01603 881 881 @AngliaFarmers

www.angliafarmers.co.uk


Watercress Lane F A R M I N G

‘I’ve got some farming in the blood, as my grandad was a farmer,’ says Gavin, who currently lives in Brundall, although he adds: ‘I’m in the process of moving just down the road from the farm so can hopefully take an even more hands on approach.’ The company takes great pride in the welfare and care of each and every duck - after all, they are very important members of staff. ‘Gavin adds: ‘I got into trouble when I first started as I wrote a piece on the website saying that the birds were THE most important members of staff! ‘The beauty is we understand the husbandry, the welfare, the biosecurity and the safety of the birds – and that’s something quite different about us.’ Due to there being no requirements or guidelines set out by the Food Standards Agency for the production and supply of duck eggs, the Watercress Lane team realised that there was a fundamental need for consumer information and reassurance when they come to purchase. So, in light of the Lion Mark used in the hen egg industry, they have introduced their Blue Duck logo as a mark of guarantee to the end user. ‘We’ve taken it upon ourselves to self-regulate,’ explains Gavin. ‘First and foremost with food production it’s got to be about safety,’ he says. But it’s not just about that. ‘When it comes to farming and animals, people want to know that the welfare is as high as it can be.’ A happy and content duck will produce a beautiful and delicious egg. So how would he describe the taste? ‘Duck eggs have a fuller flavour,’ says Gavin. ‘I know it sounds strange but they taste more ‘eggy’, in my opinion! And they are a nice signature ingredient, which is

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why restaurateurs and chefs use them. A poached duck egg, for example, can make a difference to a dish – it can raise it to another level.’ Duck eggs can be used in all cooking activities in the same way as hen eggs. To emphasise his point, Gavin says his partner makes cupcakes and will only use duck eggs because she gets a better bake. And, he points out: ‘you can make awesome omelettes with them. They are great for Sunday breakfast – I love them.’ Watercress Lane duck eggs go all over the country. ‘We’ve got a customer up in Scotland and we’ve got customers down in London, over in the West Country, and over in Ireland,’ says Gavin. In fact they supply top London restaurants and gastro-pubs, through a wholesaler. Gavin adds: ‘I have in the past exported over to Dubai, so they’ve been here, there and everywhere.’ Watercress Lane has even been seen on TV a couple of times before now: on BBC’s Food Fighters, alongside the celebrity chef Simon Rimmer; then when James Martin came to film for another BBC programme, The Great British Food Revival. Plus the duck eggs are on the menus of some of the most luxurious passenger ships in the world after Watercress Lane won a contract to supply Britain's leading cruise line, P&O Cruises. Back on dry land, Watercress Lane produce is available in many different stores, farm shops, grocers and restaurants, in Norfolk and Suffolk. Gavin concludes: ‘The Blue Duck sign, and the safety and traceability, is our USP. We’ve done something off our own bat and we’re proud of what we’ve achieved.’

GAVIN FISHER

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Eat, drink and be jolly is the motto at The Jolly Sailors in Brancaster Staithe. Emma Outten heads to North Norfolk for some good, honest pub grub

VISIT

www.jollysailorsbrancaster.co.uk

GOING OUT FOR LUNCH needn’t have too many pretensions attached to it – and that can even be true if you’re heading up to the North Norfolk coast! Let’s face it, sometimes all you want is somewhere where you know your dog will get a warm welcome too. So the spaniel and I were in for a jolly old time at The Jolly Sailors (or The Jolly, as it’s more commonly known) in Brancaster Staithe. This traditional 18th century village local was voted the UK’s Best Family Pub in the Great British Pub Awards of 2015, and it was also named as a ‘local gem’ in the latest Good Food Guide. Its sister pub is The White Horse, just along the coast road (the first of the award-winning Anglian Country Inns family, which celebrated 20 years in business last year). Whereas The White Horse boasts its restaurant overlooking the salt marshes, The Jolly boasts good honest pub food, with its daily specials, stone baked pizzas, and very own 'Jolly smokehouse'. With the dog’s thirst sated by the water bowl outside, it was time for us to turn our attentions to the drinks on offer here. Now this is definitely the place for a decent pint of real ale, as it has its own brewery: Brancaster Brewery. The five-barrel micro-brewery produces quality real ale from the finest

local Maris Otter barley grown at Wellsnext-the-Sea: The Wreck, Malthouse Bitter, Brancaster Best, Sharpie K12, and Oystercatcher. Get the ale on tap in the bar and enjoy in front of one of the two roaring log fires (it is still winter, after all): there’s one in the bar and one in the eating area, which is where my friend and I sat down to have our lunch. The Jolly makes for a very snug setting as the winter draws to its close. There's also an especially selected wine list to try - by the bottle or the glass - and the largest selection of rum on the coast – with more than 30 'Jolly Rums' and cocktails plus a 'Rum of the Month' at the bar. What a shame I was driving back to Norwich afterwards! We found a table underneath the specials blackboard and the hound found a nice spot under the table by my feet. Now, for my money, the big draw about The Jolly has to be the Smokehouse – so my friend and I soon got stuck into half a pint of shell on prawns (£6.50) for starters – they were lightly smoked, and the logoed hand wipe sachets to clean our fishy fingers afterwards were a jolly nice touch. As with all the Anglian Country Inns, local produce is championed, so the seafood platter, for example, features Letzer’s smoked salmon, and Jolly classics include a Steak and Brancaster Ale pie.

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We were sorely tempted by the Brancaster mussels (this being the North Norfolk, the seafood doesn’t get more local - the mussels are from Brancaster Bay across the road). However, on the specials board a Stilton tagliatelle caught my eye, with garlic, spinach and cream sauce (£9.75) – this was a simple dish but the blue cheese made it oh so effective on the taste buds. My friend had opted for the Rack of Ribs (£13.50), with BBQ sauce, fries and slaw, and it was a double decker of ribs, so I ended up sharing much of that as well. Unsurprisingly, there wasn’t a great deal of room left for dessert, so we both went for what we thought might be the lightest option we could find: crème brûlée with a shortbread biscuit or two (my friend ended up taking the biscuits home with her). All desserts were priced at a nice and simple £5.50 for grown-ups and £3.50 for kids. What I really like about The Jolly is that muddy boots – if you’ve been winter walking on the marshland - and muddy paws are made so very welcome. It was only as we finished our dessert that it occurred to me just how quiet the spaniel had been under the table – and then he emerged with half a lead in his mouth. At least we’d all managed a good chow down, I thought, as I carried him out to the car in the pale wintry sunshine.


HEAD CHEF NICK RAMSEY


Sarah Ruffhead -

FA M O U S FIVE

Norfolk foodie Sarah Ruffhead, tells us what she has loved eating this month ONE

Haunch of Venison

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Coffee and Cake

One of our favourite places to shop and eat, when we are in Hampshire visiting relatives, is the stylish Long Barn, in Alresford. It is the perfect destination - a huge oak barn set in

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two acres of lavender fields, and the café is always welcoming. I am not a huge coffee drinker, but I succumbed to a frothy cappuccino made with freshly roasted arabica beans from the fantastic artisan Allpress coffee team in Dalston, and a slab of chocolate and lavender cake (a great combination and made with their own lavender): moist sponge, glossy icing and I avoided pigging out on a dollop of clotted cream, which really would have been the icing on the cake! THREE

Moules

It's that time of year again. How lucky are we to have the most amazing mussels so very near to us. This bowl of Moules Mariniere was enjoyed at the White Horse in Brancaster, where Cyril and Ben Southerland, the 'Mussel Men', bring their catch to the kitchen door; harvested literally at the bottom of the garden. Piping hot, juicy mussels served with cream, garlic, parsley and strands of celery - a nice touch, all mopped up with warm focaccia. Yummy yum. FOUR

Baked Crab

I love this spoiling (quite rich) dish, which I pinched and adapted from Wiveton Farm Café. I served it as a starter at a dinner party, with dressed watercress and pea shoots, but it is good for lunch with a bigger salad and potatoes. Fresh crab bought from

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Gurney's, which you scoop out, and mix with cream, spring onions, chilli flakes, brandy and a squeeze of lemon. Pile it back into the shells, and grate Parmesan over it. Bake for 20 minutes, and voila! It always impresses, and it is dead easy to make. FIVE

Marinated Fruits

Now these rather alcoholic jewel-like gems were left over from Christmas, when I served them with my Christmas pudding ice cream. Well actually, I always make more than I need to, as they are so delicious and work well with not only ice cream, but as an easy pudding with a spoonful of crème fraîche. They would also be good atop a cheesecake. Roughly chop glacé fruits, (only buy the best), pineapple, lemon, orange and lime; and add cherries and a few Moscatel raisins. Put into a large Kilner jar, and cover with Madeira. Leave to steep for about a week. Done.

www.sarahruffhead.com

This deliciously 'Norfolk' supper was eaten at The Duck Inn at Stanhoe. Sublime venison from the Holkham Estate, cooked perfectly pink, paired with venison sausage, fairy-tale pumpkin, truffle mash (although I had plain mash as I cannot abide truffle - unless it's the chocolate kind), and, talking of chocolate, there was hint of it in the sauce. We have been there twice recently, and it was so good I had it on both occasions.

C O L U M N


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Ja yJa y`s

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DEENA BALL

Winter walks at the beach are always helped by a pit stop for something tasty! Sarah Hardy enjoys JayJay’s in Gorleston

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RARE ROAST BEEF SANDWICH

GORLESTON is a great choice for a trip to the beach. The golden sands are glorious and you can get on to them really quickly - no hiking across miles of dunes or marshes. The prom makes for great walking and, especially at this time of the year, the seafront is very dog friendly. I enjoy walking from the cliffs in the south of the town back to the main area near the Pier Hotel, where, in the past, my children liked a session in the arcades! There are plenty of spots for lunch including the Pier, a great favourite of my old friend and former colleague Tony Mallion, plus there’s the lovely Cliff Hotel with its extensive terrace and stunning views out to sea, and the Porterhouse, with its rooftop terrace. JayJay’s is our family favourite, though, as it is always warm and welcoming and does exactly the sort of food you need after a session out in all that fresh, sea air. There are burgers, jacket potatoes, paninis, toasted sarnies, great breakfasts, and larger dishes such as lasagne, steak and ale pie, and chilli. There’s an accent on seafood dishes such as scampi, crab salad, and fish cakes, too. There’s also a really impressive cake counter, packed with treats such as tiffin, shortbread and more, a daily specials board and a decent children’s menu, with everything at £4.50. The café is also licensed. We visited with the dog over the Christmas period and it was lovely and bustling, with all generations enjoying themselves. Dogs have to be kept outside, where there are plenty of tables and chairs, so we sat here as we called by at the start of our walk for an invigorating selection of lattes and hot chocolates. Indeed, the hot chocolates are legendary here, with plenty of cream, sprinkles and marshmallows! But, when we returned almost two hours later with a very tired hound, she was popped in the car to snooze, and we headed indoors to fill our chilly boots. Inside, there’s a seaside feel, with large, evocative pictures of the coast, wooden floors and huge windows looking out onto those gorgeous sands.

POSH MUSHROOMS ON TOAST

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O U T

CLAM CHOWDER

I tried a real favourite of my mine, fish pie, which came with chips and a veg so was very filling indeed. There were plenty of good chunks of two or three fishes, including salmon,and a lovely creamy sauce. Himself had the battered fish of the day (haddock) and again was more than satisfied. Do be warned - the portions are enormous! One of the teenagers had another of my favourites - ham, egg and chips while another went for one of the daily specials, a hot beef baguette. Both were very much enjoyed, with the chips disappearing at double quick speed, as you’d imagine. We managed to share a couple of cakes - well, it would have been rude not to, so we devoured a couple of chocolate brownies and a piece of peanut butter stack. Who cares about the calories! The staff are young and friendly and the man himself, owner Jay Formesa, is usually present and knows most of his customers very well. Ever smiling, he has done an amazing job over the past six to seven years, transforming a slightly rundown café into something bright, light and hugely popular and he is always planning new things, too. In fact, the only problem with JayJay’s is that it probably isn’t big enough! It opens 8am to 5pm every day, and also in the evenings - keep an eye on the website to see exactly when.

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JAY FORMESA

E A T I N G

TRADITIONAL FISH & CHIPS

MUSSELS IN LEEK, WHITE WINE & CREAM REDUCTION

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JayJay`s

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk


VISIT

www.thelibrar yrestaurant.co.uk

NIGEL & JAYNE RAFFLES

Norwich restaurateurs Jayne and Nigel Raffles are celebrating 25 years in business this year. Emma Outten meets them to find out the secrets of their success FROM NOT EXPECTING their relationship to last much longer than their travels around Australia when they were in their 20s, Jayne and Nigel Raffles have long since become the epitome of longevity! The co-directors of The Library Restaurant Bar and Grill, situated on Guildhall Hill, Norwich, had originally met at Hintlesham Hall in Suffolk. Sitting together on the sofa in the bar area, Roux-trained chef Nigel admits: ‘We both thought that we’d split up in Australia.’ However, their relationship survived, and they then set about fulfilling their dream of becoming restaurateurs, by opening St Benedict’s Grill, in the street of the same name in Norwich, in 1991. So much has changed over the past 25 years, of course. For example, when they first opened, you could still smoke in restaurants! ‘St Benedicts was like my front room, it was my social life,’ recalls Jayne. But she says: ‘It was hard when we first started as it was avant garde for Norwich.’ But a great review by Emily Green, food writer for The Independent, helped (even if she did say that it looked like a twee coffee shop out of Twin Peaks, the till jammed and the service was chaos!). Jayne agrees: ‘If we hadn’t had that article I don’t know if we would’ve made it to be honest.’ The following year the opportunity to buy nearby Italian restaurant, Pincochio’s came up. More memories:


Jayne and Nigel Raffles -

‘The heating blew up on the first night!’ recalls Jayne, who then muses: ‘We had two restaurants in two years. ‘Then four or five years later I went to get my bread from Rainbow Wholefoods and there was a sign saying they were looking for tenants to run a vegetarian restaurant.’ This led to Jayne and Nigel opening their third restaurant: Pulse café bar in The Old Fire Station Stables, Labour in Vain Yard, in 2004. ‘I just loved the building so much,’ says Jayne. ‘That was a really good 10 years.’ During that decade a nearby grade 2 listed building - the first public subscription library in Norfolk – became a proposition. Her first impressions were: ‘Oh my God what a place. It was boarded up for years and could’ve been lost to Norwich.’ Jayne and Nigel lovingly restored and reopened the library as a restaurant in 2006. ‘It’s been a big transition coming up here,’ she says. ‘We’ve gone back to basics concentrating on quality and consistency - two things which are so hard to achieve.’ Jayne takes care of the marketing side of things and has her work cut out, as she says: ‘There’s always a new kid on the block.’ But it’s a job she enjoys: ‘I love meeting people,’ she says. ‘And I love collaborating with people in the Lanes as I do feel us independents should stick together.’ In 2015 they sold Pinocchio’s and St Benedicts, with Jayne admitting: ‘Running multiples is difficult - it’s become more and more difficult to get good staff. We felt that maybe it was time to move on.’ This year has started with a bang, with the Library Restaurant offering 25 per cent off all food for 25 days to celebrate 25 years in the business (they had a table of 48 one occasion). And this year will bring with it lots of new events, including quarterly cooking demonstrations, run by Nigel, who is making a conscious effort to get out of the kitchen (he’s also been collaborating with City College). And he’s planning to write a book. ‘It’s a story of us,’ he says. It will also be www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

B I G

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“Catering has to be a way of life, it’s not just a job”

PICTURES BY

SIMON FINLAY

part manual and part cookbook. ‘Nigel has so much knowledge and I’m really glad that some of it is going to go into a book.’ says Jayne. All of their restaurants have all survived for longer than most of the restaurants that have ever opened in Norwich. So what have the highlights of the past quarter-century been? Nigel replies: ‘I would say when we had the opening party here - seeing what we had turned it into gave me a lot of satisfaction.’ In general, he adds: ‘I just love cooking and serving people. I love making people happy. ‘Twenty five years seem to have flown by – we have had two kids in that time, who have since left home.’ Sons Joshua and Angus have also been involved in the catering industry. Do Jayne and Nigel have any regrets? For Nigel the regret is not spending more time with his wife and sons. Jayne speaks honestly about the challenges of being married to a chef and business partner. ‘I’ve spent a lot of time by

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myself. And brought the children up a lot of the time by myself.’ But, as she says: ‘Catering has to be a way of life, it’s not just a job.’ Would they ever open another restaurant? Jayne replies: ‘I don’t know - it’s a bit like childbirth – you say never ever again but then there’s the second time, the third time and the fourth time!’ But she also adds: ‘For the first time in our lives we have an opportunity to do other things.’


cold Your Gluten Freedo m -

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comfort This month our free from writer Sara Matthews offers us hearty fare for chilly weather

SARA MATTHEWS runs Your Gluten Freedom, visit www.yourglutenfreedom.co.uk


BEAN and MUSHROOM PIE This hearty pie is a vegetarian twist on cottage pie, which is a perfect mid-week meal on these cold winter evenings. It can be made in advance and stored in the fridge for a day until ready to cook or cooked and frozen INGREDIENTS

2-3 sweet potatoes (roughly 550g), chopped; 3 large carrots, chopped; 1 stick celery, chopped; ½ tsp of onion granules; 1 heaped tsp of gluten free wholegrain mustard (optional); 2 bay leaves; 2 garlic cloves, crushed; 1tsp of paprika; salt and pepper, to taste; a sprig of rosemary, finely chopped; 250g of mushrooms, sliced or chopped; 380g tin/carton of tomatoes, chopped; 380g tin of butter beans, drained; 1 tbsp of gluten free gravy powder/granules - I used Knorr classic gravy; 60-80 ml of water; drizzle of rapeseed oil

METHOD Bring the sweet potatoes and 2 carrots to boil in a pan of water. Simmer until soft, drain and set aside. Pre-heat oven to 180°C. In a large frying pan or wok, heat a drizzle of rapeseed oil and, on a medium heat, gently cook the remaining carrot, celery, onion and bay leaves for five minutes then add the mushrooms, garlic rosemary and paprika. Cook for a further five minutes on a low heat. Add the tomatoes, beans, water, and gravy granules and simmer for a further five minutes until the sauce thickens. If it is too thick, add a little more water. Remove the bay leaves. Transfer this mix to an oven proof dish, one that is big enough for the mixture to come up just over half way on the sides. Next, mash the sweet potatoes and carrots until smooth and creamy. Add the onion powder and mustard, and mix to combine. Cover the bean mixture with the mash, using a fork to texture the mash so you get a lovely browning when baked. At this stage, you can refrigerate until needed. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until the top starts to brown. Serve with your choice of extra vegetables

Serves Four

TURN OVER FOR MORE RECIPES!


Butchers -

COOKING TO IMPrESS

F E A T U R E

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Tanta lise your taste buds this Vale ntine’s with a juicy steak from your local butch er VALENTINE’S IS A TIME when the chaps often like to show off their cooking skills and serve up a delicious, juicy steak. Whether it is a fillet, a sirloin or a rump, you can’t really go far wrong unless you massively overcook it. Think about adding a creamy béarnaise sauce, or trying a Thai-style salad (better for the waistline) or just go for that classic steak and chips - they are all winners!

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Pork Chops TREAT YOURonly VALENTINE TO£5.95kg A COXFORD’ProSudlySTEAK 11 MARKET PLACE

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Coxfords NPORROFUODLLYK Coxfords Butchers Butchers

LO O CA RD L ER DE S LIV O E VE RY R O £4 N 0

How to cook the perfect steak: Get the steak out of the fridge and allow it to come up to room temperature about one

hour before cooking. Frying or grilling it from cold will stop the heat from reaching the middle as efficiently. You also need to make sure your pan or griddle is ultra hot before you begin – this will help to caramelise the meat which is essential for a delicious crust. Aim to cook your steak medium-rare to medium – any more and you’ll be left with a tough piece of meat. Turning it every minute or so will make sure you get a really even result. After cooking, leave it to rest and rub with a little olive oil or butter for really juicy steak.

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NORFOLK FOOD & DRINK CHAMPIONS 177-179 Plumstead Road, Norwich www.archersbutchers.com

Tel 01603 434253


Your Gluten Freedo m R E C I P E S

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PICTURE BY

PAUL MARCO

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ROASTED TURMERIC CAULIFLOWER

These delicious breakfast muffins are packed full of nutrients and are sugar free. They are guaranteed to hit the spot, great warmed up for breakfast, and are ideal for pack-ups or a mid-morning snack

Makes 12

INGREDIENTS 280g of gluten free oats; 2tbsp of chia seeds (milled or whole, either works). If you do not have chia seeds you can substitute with flax seeds; 1tsp of bicarbonate of soda; ½tsp of salt; 200ml of coconut milk - or other plant milk; 2tsp of lemon juice; zest of 1 lemon; 80g of coconut oil (warm so soft but not runny); 100g of agave nectar or honey if you prefer; 200g of blueberries; 20g of pumpkin seeds plus a few for sprinkling

METHOD Pre-heat the oven to 170°C. Prepare your muffin tin by inserting 12 muffin cases into the holes. In a bowl measure out the milk, add the lemon juice, stir and put to one side. Put 200g of the oats into a food processor and blitz until it resembles flour. Then transfer to a mixing bowl with the remaining oats, chia seeds, salt and bicarbonate of soda. Add the milk mixture to the dry ingredients, along with the agave, coconut oil, lemon zest and the pumpkin seeds. Mix well with a spatula to combine then stir in the blueberries. Divide the mixture equally between the prepared muffin cases. Sprinkle a few pumpkin seeds on the top of each muffin. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until brown. Once cooked, transfer to wire rack to cool. Enjoy warm for breakfast, as a mid-morning snack or pop into a lunch pack-up for a nutritious, filling and guilt free treat

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ROASTED TURME RIC CAU LIFLOWER INGREDIENTS 1 medium cauliflower; 1tbsp of coconut oil; 1-2tsp of turmeric METHOD Core and break the cauliflower into florets. In a baking dish, melt the coconut oil. Once melted add the florets and stir to coat them with the oil. Sprinkle with the turmeric to coat it evenly. Season with salt and pepper, stir again and bake in the oven at 180°C for 20 mins or until lightly brown. Serve as a vegetable accompaniment to your main meal or as a party nibble with dips

Serves 4

LEMON and BLUEBERRY OATMEAL BREAKFAST MUFFINS


at the correct pace. It is very important for any chef to understand their journeys. What is your favourite ingredient? Spring time is definitely my favourite season: morel mushrooms, tender young peas, broad beans, Tilbrook’s asparagus from Tuddenham Village, rhubarb and tangy sorrel. I think as we only have it for such a small amount of time I would have to say my favourite ingredient is Gary Tilbrook's asparagus. We order them the night before from him and they are hanging on our kitchen door first thing the next day. This is the romance you have being in the countryside, accessibility for vegetables is in abundance.

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Who are you and where do you work? My name is Lee Bye, I’m 30 years old, and I’m the Head Chef at Tuddenham Mill, near Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk. How long have you been there? I have been here three years as Head Chef, as of this month - boy has that gone quick! Where were you before? I was Tuddenham Mill's Sous Chef before with the previous Head Chef, Paul Foster, for three years and before that worked with Gordon McNeill - I have enjoyed and endured every part of my journey high and low - to become Head Chef.

Where did you train? I studied at Cambridge Regional College, Catering and Hospitality, Levels 1 and 2. I didn’t take the option of Level 3. I was on an apprenticeship programme and wanted to get into a professional kitchen full time and start learning and tasting everything. Who has inspired you? I think, like most chefs, reading Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain and White Heat were inspirations from a reading sense. Head Chef, Gordon McNeill, enabled me to grow a thick skin for this industry and Paul Foster really focused me and taught me to understand my palate. This has enabled me to grow into my journey

Got a favourite gadget? To be honest we aren’t really into our gadgetry at Tuddenham, we keep things very straightforward. Good cooking and seasoning. Sourcing of ingredients is where we spend our time. Gadgets have great uses but for what we strive for at Tuddenham we don’t need them. Quality ingredients are the only gadgets we need. What is your signature dish, at this time of year? Forced rhubarb is beautiful this time of year and we use it in sweet and savoury. Tonight it will be on the menu with Breckland mallard and golden ale from Bury St Edmunds. Tomorrow lunch we may keep it simple on desserts with sea buckthorn churros, forced rhubarb and local honey we source in Tuddenham. What do you like doing when you're not cooking? When I’m not cooking, I’m normally thinking about cooking... I have a beautiful partner Holly who keeps me on my toes and two wonderful children, Evelyn and Leo. I try to make as much time for them when away from the stove. I am getting better at being home more which has been a huge challenge for me as I love what I do in my work. Boxing is a huge passion of mine and I try to get to as many events as possible throughout the year. Where do you like to eat out in the region? Easy: Pea Porridge in Bury St Edmunds. Justin Sharp is a throwback - a solid cook, who treats produce with respect and doesn’t manipulate the


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ingredients. He never disappoints. I love Thai Street Café in Newmarket. I tend to go with my brothers as it is a great place to unwind and relax over a few Thai beers and graze your way through the menu. The Gunton Arms in Norfolk is another great place to find yourself on a day off for lunch. I don’t want fuss, so a relaxed environment with some good cooking is all I look for when eating out. It’s a stressful industry so finding this on my days off in a restaurant is perfect. What would you be doing if you were not a chef? If I wasn’t a chef I would probably be doing a job where it is people focussed. I really enjoy and am intrigued by people’s performance in a workplace and how to maximise their potentials. It’s a challenge everyday but a hugely rewarding one. A dream job would have to be working for Sky Sports as a sports writer and analyst, ringside at Wembley Stadium or in the Gantry at Old Trafford - that’s a proper job. What's your foodie prediction for 2017? Restaurant Moor Hall in Aughton, Lancashire has to be the ‘one to watch’ in 2017 for me. I was lucky enough to eat Mark Birchall’s food when he was Head Chef at L’Enclume. He’s a real inspiration for any chef and has a true understanding of British ingredients, prepared to the highest order. I will be sure to go.

RECIPE OVERLEAF

This month Lee Bye, the Head Chef at Tuddenham Mill in Suffolk, who has been awarded an Acorn Scholarship for 2017, explains why he has little need for gadgetry

Lee B ye


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C O L U M N

JUSTIN WRIGHT

Lovewell Blake -

H E A D TO TH E S U PE RM A RK E T!

VISIT

DESPITE CONCERNS in some quarters about the impact of Brexit, a perceived crisis in the NHS and the new man in the White House, consumer confidence has seemingly remained high – and no sector is demonstrating this better than food and drink. A rash of supermarket results in January showed strong growth in sales, although the picture was not uniform. Big winners were Aldi with a 15 per cent growth in December sales (albeit with 11 per cent more stores than last year); Morrisons, which reported a 2.9 per cent increase in like-for-like sales in the lead-up to Christmas (although this was on the back of a two year restructuring programme); Waitrose at 2.8 per cent growth; and Tesco, which saw a more modest but nevertheless respectable 0.7 per cent increase. Sainsbury’s, meanwhile, saw just 0.1 per cent like-for-like sales growth (although even that is an increase) although food sales actually dropped slightly. M&S food sales grew by 0.6 per cent. These figures are important for producers because the last few years have seen a definite ‘squeezed middle’ in the food retail market, with top-end supermarkets such as Waitrose and M&S doing well, alongside spectacular growth among the discount retailers.

www.lovewell-blake.co.uk

Justin Wright, who heads up Lovewell Blake’s specialist food and drink team, says that strong sales figures from the major supermarkets reveal some opportunities for our local producers Even for smaller producers which don’t do business with the supermarkets, these trends are important. The big chains have such a big share of the market that what happens in the aisles of Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Asda and the rest will inevitably be reflected wherever consumers are buying food and drink. So what are the lessons that Norfolk’s producers should be taking from this latest round of results? Although it might be easing, the concept of the ‘squeezed middle’ remains important. The luxury retailers and the discounters have largely been able to ride out tougher times because they have a very focussed USP and are targeting a very specific market. At the top end, these are affluent consumers who are prepared to pay premium prices for products that they believe deliver a noticeably different experience. That might be a simple question of quality, but it is just as likely to be an issue of provenance, localness, ethical production or simply a nicer shopping experience and attractive packaging, in its widest sense. Clearly, the likes of Aldi and Lidl have tapped into a market which is very focussed on value, often driven by the simple fact that some consumers are struggling to make

PLEASE NOTE that this article is provided for your information only. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, information contained herein may not be comprehensive and you should not act upon it without seeking professional advice

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ends meet. Aldi opened 70 stores last year with another 70 planned for this year so they clearly feel that there is more market share available. The lesson for producers here is the importance of developing a unique proposition which is aimed at a particular market – if you are simply a me-too, middlemarket producer, you are likely to fall between the cracks. Your USP might be to do with the quality of the product but, more likely, it will be based on your product’s story; because, increasingly, this is what the discerning consumer is looking for. One other take-out from last month’s flood of retailer results is that inflation is once again starting to creep into the food sector – the first real impact of last June’s Brexit vote. The huge devaluation of the pound has led to some pretty hefty rises in input costs for many food producers and that is now finding its way onto the weekly shopping bill. For local producers, using local ingredients to make their products, this represents an opportunity to be more competitive because, for them, the impact of a weak currency will be small. This could be the time for Norfolk producers which don’t rely on imported inputs to take the plunge and demonstrate their value to the big retailers – because you can be sure that the supermarkets will all be looking to replicate last year’s strong figures once again in 2017.


Lee Bye R E C I P E

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RHUBARB CRANACHAN

Serves Four

rHUBArB CrANaCHAN

with forced rhubarb, village honey, Glenlivet, oats

METHOD To make the rhubarb compote Slice the rhubarb as thin as possible with a sharp knife. Place in a heavy bottomed pan with the sugar and mix well. Place on a medium to high heat until the sugar dissolves, stirring well. Once the sugar has dissolved place a lid on the pan so it is air tight and cook quickly until the rhubarb has all broken down. Be careful not to catch the rhubarb on the bottom of the pan. We are not looking to caramelise the rhubarb, just to soften it and retain all the flavour by cooking it fast. Once cooked, spread over a chilled tray and place in the fridge straight away to enable the cooking process to slow right down. This will be ready after about an hour.

INGREDIENTS 300g of forced rhubarb (washed and trimmed); 60g of caster sugar; 400ml of double cream; 2-3 tbsp of Glenlivet Scottish whisky; 60g of toasted porridge oats; 3 tbsp of wild honey (I use the honey here in Tuddenham)

To make the ‘fool’ While this is cooling it gives you time to make the fool part of the Cranachan. Whip the cream in a chilled mixing bowl just so it starts to fall off the whisk. Be careful not to over work the cream as it will be too stiff and any ingredients that are folded in will cause the mixture to become grainy. Once the cream is the correct consistency fold in the whisky, the honey and two thirds of the toasted oats. Taste and texture are huge players in this elegant, timely dessert. When the rhubarb is ready, gently spoon a healthy amount over the cream mixture and finish with the remaining toasted oats. Taste throughout the whole process for sweetness - rhubarb can catch you off guard sometimes so it’s really important you taste, taste, and taste again.

A go od tip ple with this de sse rt wo uld be Bro ad lan d’s No rfo lk Me ad fro m ou r br oth er s ac ro ss the bo rd er

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TUDDENHAM MILL

Stop press - Tuddenham Mill has just been awarded a coveted three AA roset tes

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The Dales P R O M O T I O N

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COUNTRY DINING

Matt Stacey, Head Chef at The Dales, a country house hotel in North Norfolk, tells us about the food at this former Victorian rectory

MATT STACEY

Who are you and where do you work? I’m Matt Stacey, Head Chef of The Dales in Upper Sheringham, which is part of the Mackenzie hotel group. Where did you train? I truly believe that a chef never stops training or learning but if I had to narrow it down, I would say that two places really inspired me. The two AA Rosette Bear Hotel in Woodstock, Oxfordshire, where I trained as a young chef. It was a very popular town house hotel, and it was definitely an eye opener for me. I learnt my speed and direction there, and it made me realise that this was what I wanted to do. Also the three AA Rosette Fallow Fields in Oxfordshire where I worked under a fantastic Head Chef called Mark Potts. Here I learnt about refinement and different flavour combinations. Can you describe your style of cooking and what you expect of your team? I like refined, classical, country house hotel cooking, using local ingredients and very modern techniques and equipment. I think my food reflects the area and the seasons. I expect the very best from my team as I know we can achieve very high standards each one of them brings something a little bit different.


Have you got a favourite ingredient? I do love venison and our butcher, Paul Graves, from nearby Briston, gets us some fantastic produce. Can you tell us a bit about The Dales - it looks a beautiful building? I have always loved The Dales, right from when I was a young boy walking past it, or gazing down on it from Sheringham Park. I was born in Overstrand and moved to Mundesley when I was aged 11. It is a fantastic looking building, and steeped in so much history. It is a Victorian rectory, with plenty of original features such as mullioned windows and fireplaces - and just a couple of miles from the coast. And what about the lovely gardens and all that parkland? I am a massive fan of the gardens -

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

there are four acres - which are so beautiful at any time of year. We often forage, looking for herbs, berries and other fruits to use in the kitchen. We hear you have a good lunch time offer in February - can you tell us a bit more about it? We have a bistro style menu at lunch where you can enjoy a three-course lunch and relax and explore the hotel and its grounds. On selected dishes from the lunch menu, we offer two main courses for £14 and two desserts for £8, meaning that a couple can enjoy two courses in a two AA rosette restaurant for £22. Why should we book a table in your restaurant? I think you should book a table and

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more - turn up early and wander around the wonderful grounds, maybe even head into the park next door. You can choose from our fine dining restaurant, Upchers, or head to the bar for a cosy atmosphere Have you anything in particular planned for Valentine’s? We are giving our menus on February 11 and 14 a ‘love’ theme and we will, of course, decorate Upchers to suit the romantic mood. Expect red roses, candles, soft music and more. And don’t forget we have 21 bedrooms, too! Can you sum up The Dales in three words? I don’t think I can! I need six! How about - historic venue, good food, excellent service!

www. da les co un tr yh ou se .co .uk


THE

N O N W O D FArM VISIT

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An dy Ne wm an me ets our dy namic co lum nist Char lot te Gurney to fin d out ab out he r fam ily business on the ed ge of No rw ich

CHARLOTTE GURNEY

MANY FOODIES stuck in the rat race dream of packing it all in and starting a successful food business, but for most of us, it remains just that – a dream. Yet one high-flying London head-hunter has actually made the move, and is busy building a family-owned concern on the outskirts of Norwich which is rapidly obtaining a reputation as a foodie destination. Charlotte Gurney was brought up in rural Berkshire, but it was a City career which awaited her. Entering the pressured world of headhunting, she landed a job with Apple, one of the most go-ahead and glamorous companies of them all, essentially running an in-house headhunting agency finding top talent for the company. It sounds like the dream job, but Charlotte quickly realised that furthering her career would mean relocating to Silicon Valley, something she didn’t want to do. As is often the way, serendipity stepped in to provide a solution, in the form of a former Royal Marine who had been forced to leave the services through injury, and was himself about to reinvent his life. Charlotte met her future husband Oliver at a wedding, and this was the genesis of what would become one of Norwich’s leading food businesses: White House Farm Pick-Your-Own and Farm Shop in Sprowston. Oliver is part of a family which has been farming on this land for considerably more than a century, and the returning marine was invited back to take over the fruit business at White House Farm. Charlotte herself had never been to Norfolk before coming to the farm for the first time.

WHITE HOUSE FARM is open Tuesday to Saturday 9am-5pm and Sunday 10am-4pm.

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There had been a popular pick-your-own site here for many years, but when the couple arrived to take over, they found a business which had a large seasonal footfall but little profit, and facilities which were, to say the least, basic. ‘There was an ancient, open-sided shed, and lots of people coming for four months of the year, but it wasn’t the basis for a sustainable business,’ says Charlotte. ‘We realised that we had to do something quickly, so we thought why not sell tea and cake? ‘That first year I ended up making every single Victoria sponge we sold, but it was popular, and gave us the germ of an idea for something bigger.’ The following year they took the plunge and converted a pig shed on the farm into a rather more comfortable and welcoming cafe. ‘It was a handsome investment, and we were young and foolish, and setting out on married life,’ says Charlotte. ‘But we were in a dream location, and we had inherited a good footfall. At the same time, pick-your-own was shifting towards a leisure activity, and we wanted to tap into that.’ From day one the cafe sold produce from the farm: fruit and vegetables, jam and ice cream. So the concept of opening a proper farm shop was an obvious one. The vision was that the shop should be intrinsically linked to the farm. ‘We tried hard not to lose the roots of the farm, so gave the whole place a rustic look with lots of farm machinery on the wall. We were after a relaxed, unique vibe. We also wanted to sell things connected to the farm,’ explains Charlotte. Central to that aspiration was a butchery, and in June 2015 they were joined by experienced butcher Steve Taylor, who brought with him knowledge of both High Street and farm shop butchers. The move was an instant success, with provenance playing an important part in the appeal. The lamb sold is from the family farm; pork comes from Blythburgh, whilst the beef is also local, with its ‘passport’ proudly displayed for customers to see. If her new life is a complete change from her London corporate existence, it is still very much a business for Charlotte – but one which comes with a lifestyle attached. ‘It has to be a lifestyle business, and it can be very stressful at times. But there is a really extended family feeling here, not just because it’s a family farm, but because everyone who works here is totally committed to what we are trying to achieve. We are happy here, and my London life seems a long way in the past.’

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STEVE TAYLOR


Nick Knowles -

NICK

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He’s best known for transforming buildings but now telly’s Nick Knowles wants us to rebuild our diets. Sarah Hardy reports


H

E’S BEST KNOWN as the rather emotional host of the hit TV series, DIY SOS. He’s the beefy presenter, always up for a giggle yet not afraid to show his softer side too. But now Nick Knowles has published his first cookbook and it’s all about vegan and veggie eating! Quite a departure for a chap who used to devour bacon sarnies! Nick, now in his mid 50s, had something of an epiphany in 2015. He knew he was a little overweight, pretty unfit and in danger of burning out - so something needed to change, and quick. He travelled to Thailand with a camera crew and fellow DIY SOS stars Billy Byrne and Julian Perryman for a month’s detox, including a week-long fast followed by a purely vegan diet. The results? He lost nine kilos in three weeks, his cholesterol fell by a third and his blood pressure dropped to a healthy level. The trip was filmed and made into a BBC2 series called The Retreat which proved a hit with viewers in September last year. A year on, Nick eats a vegan or vegetarian diet, with the odd day off, and is slimmer, healthier and fitter than ever. Now, he is on a mission to help everyone discover the joy in a meat-free meal - without having to give up a Sunday roast or a bacon buttie at the footie. Nick says: ‘I’m 6’2” and 16 stone: I’m a big unit. I need hearty meals, not thin, weedy plates and I often work outside in cold and wet conditions – a salad won’t cut it – so here’s a vegan and vegetarian cookbook for meat eaters full of hearty, filling, healthy recipes. Why feel bad about the cake you have with your coffee at elevenses when you can have a healthy raw chocolate cake? Why skimp in winter when you can have a thick hearty chestnut and vegetable stew and dumplings? And if I can do it – then you can do it.’

INGREDIENTS 2tbsp of olive oil; 1 large onion, finely diced; 2 carrots, peeled and diced into ½cm pieces; 2 celery sticks, diced into ½cm pieces; ½ tbsp of fresh or dried oregano, finely chopped; 3–4 rosemary sprigs; 3–4 thyme sprigs; 1 garlic clove, crushed; 200ml of full-bodied red wine; 400g of tin green lentils, rinsed and drained; 2 x 400g of tins chopped tomatoes; 1tbsp of tomato purée; 2tsp of sugar; 1 bay leaf; 360g of dried spaghetti (or other pasta of your choice); salt and freshly ground black pepper; grated Parmesan (if not required to be vegan), to serve; basil leaves, to serve www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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“This is man’s best friend, recipe wise, only swapping the mince for lentils. That said, you do have to work to make lentils interesting, as they can be about as appetising as cardboard, but I think you’ll be surprised at how good this Bolognese is”

VEGETARIAN

Rich Lentil Bolognese METHOD 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a low heat and add in the onion along with a pinch of salt and splash of water, then sweat for 10 minutes until really soft. Stir through the carrots, celery and oregano. Tie the rosemary and thyme stems together with kitchen string and add to the pot. Continue to cook, over a low heat, for a further 15 minutes. Stir through the garlic and soften for a further minute before pouring in the red wine. Simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, 1–2 minutes. Next, tip in the

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Prep time: 25 minute s Cookin g time: 1 hour

lentils, chopped tomatoes, tomato purée and sugar. Season well and bring the pot to a boil. Nestle in the bay leaf and reduce to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened slightly 2. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta for 6–8 minutes until ‘al dente’, then drain 3. Remove the herb bundle from the sauce and pour the Bolognese over the drained pasta and toss to coat it well. Serve with Parmesan (if using) and basil leaves scattered over.

TURN OVER FOR MORE OF NICK'S RECIPES!

Serves Four

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VEGETARIAN

Wasabi Virgin Mary Soup INGREDIENTS 2tbsp of olive oil; 1 red onion, finely chopped; 2 celery sticks, finely chopped; 1 small garlic clove, crushed; ½ small red chilli, deseeded and chopped; 2 large jarred roasted peppers, sliced; 2 x 400g tins of plum tomatoes; 200g of cherry tomatoes; 400ml vegetable stock; 2tbsp of brown sugar; 2tbsp of lemon juice; 60g of stale bread; 2tbsp of Worcestershire sauce; 1tsp of Tabasco; ½ small bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped; 100ml of buttermilk; 100g of crème fraiche; 3tbsp of milk; 1tsp of wasabi paste; a handful of pea shoots (optional); salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prep time: 20 minute s Cookin g time: 35 minute s METHOD 1. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole dish or saucepan over a low heat. Add the onion and celery and cook gently with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes or until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the garlic and chilli and cook for 2 minutes. Add the peppers, both sets of tomatoes and the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer, stir through the brown sugar, lemon juice and stale bread and cook gently, covered, for 20 minutes 2. Tip the soup into a blender or use a stick blender in the pan to blitz it to a smooth texture. Stir the Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and parsley through the soup and season to taste. Set aside over a low heat to warm through 3. In a small bowl, mix together the buttermilk, crème fraiche, milk and wasabi. Season with salt. Ladle the soup into individual serving bowls and drizzle over the wasabi crème fraiche. Top each with a cluster of the curly peppery pea shoots, if using, then serve.

Serves Four

“To be fair, this recipe does what it says on the tin, except it’s not in a tin, it’s wrestled onto the table to impress people from your own fair or calloused hands”


Nick Knowles -

C O O K B O O K

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VEGETARIAN

White Chocolate & Raspberry Cheesecake INGREDIENTS Sunflower oil, for greasing; 200g of ginger oat biscuits; 60g of unsalted butter, melted; 1 piece of stem ginger in syrup, roughly chopped; 400g of white chocolate; 200ml of double cream; 500g of soft cream cheese; 30g of icing sugar, sifted; zest of 2 lemons; 200g of raspberries; 30g of pumpkin seeds, to decorate

Prep time: 15 minute s + 3 1/2 Hours Chillin g METHOD 1. Lightly grease a 20cm springform cake tin with a little sunflower oil 2. Place the biscuits in a sealable plastic food bag and lightly bash with the end of a wooden spoon to create a fine crumb. Tip into a bowl and mix together with the melted butter and ginger. Tip into the cake tin, pressing down firmly with the back of a spoon, and transfer to the fridge for at least 30 minutes to set 3. Fill a pan one-third full of water and bring to a simmer, then set a tightly fitting heatproof bowl on top of the pan, making sure the base doesn’t touch the water. Break the chocolate into the bowl and allow to melt gently, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool a little 4. In a large mixing bowl, beat the double cream until it reaches a thick dropping consistency. Be careful not to over whip it until it’s too stiff 5. In a separate bowl, use a wooden spoon to beat together the cream cheese, icing sugar, lemon zest and cooled chocolate 6. Gently fold the cream through the cream cheese mixture along with 150g of the raspberries. Lightly crush the raspberries with the back of the spoon when incorporating to get a nice rippled effect. Spoon the mixture over the cheesecake base and smooth over. Allow to set in the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours 7. Transfer the cheesecake to a large serving plate and scatter the remaining raspberries and the pumpkin seeds over the top to decorate.

Serves 6-8

“It’s cheesecake. I love cheesecake. Just ask my mates at Outsider Tart, in Chiswick, who make the best American cheesecake in London. I’ll eat an entire pumpkin pie on my own every 4th July – which is essentially a big cheesecake, isn’t it? Really, no? Ok, well, there’s no pretending that this is good for your figure, only good for your taste buds”

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Extracted from Proper Healthy Food by Nick Knowles by BBC Books, £14.99 Photography by Andrew Burton


books

Between the Covers Here’s our round-up of the latest cookbooks coming on to the market including one from Mary Berry

FLIPPING GOOD! PANCAKES FROM AROUND THE WORLD by Sudi Pigott ÂŁ9.99

Everyone loves a pancake and with Shrove Tuesday round the corner this book goes beyond lemon and sugar toppings. Sudi Pigott shows how versatile pancakes can be, dressed up or down for any meal of the day. With chapters dedicated to Breakfast and Brunch, Main Meals, Snacks and Nibbles, and Desserts, and recipes taking influence from all over the world, there's a pancake for every occasion. Her collection of recipes includes Ricotta Pancakes with Banana and Honeycomb Orange Butter; Buttermilk and Spelt Pancake Stack with Poached Blackberries; Potato Latkes with Sumac Fried Egg; Galettes de Sarrasin with Leeks and Merguez Sausage; Okonomiyaki with Shredded Cabbage, Prawns and Tamarind Sauce; Banh Xeo Rice Flour Pancakes with Prawns, Shitake and Mangetout; Russian Buckwheat Blini with Smoked Salmon; Fluffy Coconut Flour Pancakes with Apricots and Maple Syrup; Kaiserschmarren with Plum Compote. Happy flipping!

Save the date...

JARROLD Literary Lunch at Top Of The Terrace Restaurant, Norwich City Football Club, is on March 22. Guest authors include Joanna Trollope and Mick Herron


MARY BERRY EVERYDAY

ONE POUND MEALS

by Mary Berry £25

by Miguel Barclay £14.99

A new cookbook from Mary Berry is a great start to the year. This book ties in with Mary's 2017 BBC series excitingly anticipated by her fans. There are more than 120 recipes from the nation's best-loved home cook. With Mary's simple guidance, she encourages trying new favourites, making everyday meals into something extra-special. It includes delicious family suppers, tempting food for sharing and plenty of sweet treats, all made with everyday ingredients and a clever twist. A little Mary Berry magic for every day.

If the bank balance still looks a little depleted after Christmas this book could come in handy. Instagram chef Miguel Barclay demonstrates how you can create meals that cost under a pound to make but look and taste a million dollars. Miguel begins with one recipe and, depending on what is left over, chooses the next recipe accordingly. Recipes include family staples such as Lasagne; Crab mac & cheese; Chicken katsu curry; Pork chop in a mustard & leek sauce; Spaghetti carbonara; Mushroom risotto; Quiche Lorraine; Aubergine dal and chapati; Scotch Egg; Ultimate GBP1 burger; Ham and mushroom pizza; Pancake stack. By planning a week's worth of meals in one go, shopping becomes quicker, cooking becomes tastier and more efficient with less waste, while saving money too. It sounds like a win win buy.

DAVINA'S SUGAR-FREE IN A HURRY

by Lily Simpson & Rob Hobson £14.99

Davina McCall's healthy, sugar-free recipes can be put together in super quick time for those on the go but who want to be sure their blood sugar is kept in check. Easy dishes to serve include Mexican Tomato and Black Bean Soup, Healthy Chicken Caesar Salad and Banana, Oat and Sultana Muffins. With the presenter's trademark warmth and wit, these are delicious, healthy and practical recipes for the whole family to help juggle those with different health needs, whether it's weight management, kicking the sugar habit or cutting out junk food for good. Worth a try.

A detox plan with recipes for food lovers who want to eat healthy, nutritious meals but without compromising on flavour from deli entrepreneur, Lily Simpson and consultant nutritionist, Rob Hobson. Lily runs The Detox Kitchen, whose boutique London delis and specially designed health menus have won thousands of customers - including international celebrities. She and consultant nutritionist Rob have put this collection of recipes together for a healthy start to the year. All wheat-, dairyand refined sugar-free, you'll find recipes for invigorating breakfasts, zingy raw salads, delicious snacks and dips, vibrant fish and meat dishes, and scrumptious sweet treats. But this is not just a recipe book. Rob explains how to use these dishes to target your health needs, whether that's losing weight, gaining energy, getting clearer skin - or just having a weekend detox after a few days of indulgence.

by Davina McCall £16.99

THE DETOX KITCHEN BIBLE


BREWERY TAP BAR BREWERY LAB

"Be sur e to look out for one of the ir mos t pop ular sea son al ales, Jac k Val ent ine, whi ch is a per fect way to cele bra te this spe cial day"

BREWERY GATES

LOGO SKETCH


Lacons Brewery -

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FALCON S O A R S

Great Yarmouth’s Lacons Ales is undergoing a massive expansion plan. Sarah Hardy reports

www.lacons.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

VISIT

LACONS BREWERY, based in Great Yarmouth, has a long and rich history which is about to enter a new and exciting chapter. The brewery, which opened in The Rows in 1760, was once a real powerhouse with 300 pubs, including many in London, and produced 100,000 barrels a week. But it shut in 1968, a victim of the crazy economies of the big brewing companies of the time. Yet thanks to the passion of two men, Mick Carver and Trevor Hourican, who ran drinks wholesaler JV Trading in Lowestoft, it sprang back to life in 2013 after a 45 year gap. The pair pay great homage to the company’s heritage: a member of the Lacons' family, William, is on the board and the company continues to use the famous Lacon family crest, the falcon, and its motto ‘integrity is true honour’. Another key part of the team is head brewer Wil Wood, who has been with the company since its relaunch. He came from Fyne Ales in Scotland and also worked at Oakham Ales in Peterborough and, interestingly, he has been able to use Lacons’ original yeast strains which have been preserved at the National Collection of Yeast Cultures in Norwich since 1959! Wil and the team continue to develop Lacons' range of ales, including heritage beers and seasonal ales - be sure to look out for one of their most popular

seasonal ales, Jack Valentine, which is a perfect way to celebrate this special day. There are four core ales, Affinity, Legacy, Encore and Falcon Ale, and eight heritage ones - and plans are afoot to experiment and develop new lines. But now the company is developing further, with the building of a new brewery which could increase the output 10-fold. The figures are impressive: initially output will expand six times from five barrels to 30, meaning each brew will go from 1440 pints to 8640. That is some increase! Brewing takes place seven times a week at present but if it was to take place twice a day, well, the figures would go through the roof! The new brewery is costing around £1m and it is hoped that it will be up and running by the summer. Marketing Manager Judi-mae Alderton admits that it is an exciting time. ‘It is great news for us and for Great Yarmouth. I can only reinforce just how proud the company is of its history. We have our roots here and are very much a part of town life - we give the spent grain to local allotment holders and the malt is sourced locally.’ The brewery, on Main Cross Road, also boasts a Victorian tap house where people can sample the beers, a shop, and a museum which details the history of the brewer, with old brewing recipes, pub signs, bottles and lots more. Once the expansion project is complete, brewery

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tours will also be available, with Judimae adding: ‘We think we will become another great tourist attraction for the town and we love to share our history with both visitors and locals alike.’ She says that Lacons ales will also be present at the National Winter Ales Festival at The Halls in Norwich later this month. ‘We enjoy getting out to festivals and this month, we are providing one of the bars at this festival. We’re taking six ales for people to try including the launch of a new one, Old Nogg, which is a warming and slightly nutty flavoured ale based on a recipe from 1926 - just right for this weather.’ Mr Hourican says: ‘It is an incredibly exciting time for Lacons Brewery – we have won various awards including the Best Bitter in World award since our return three years ago and we are really looking forward to utilising our increased capacity, continuing to innovate and most importantly brewing the best ale and craft beer in 2017 and beyond.’ You can also sample Lacons ales at numerous pubs around the region, including the Leopard in Norwich and the Honingham Buck between Norwich and Dereham. The company is also supplying their craft keg IPA ‘Quell’ in cans on the Norwich to London Greater Anglia trains so rail travel has just become that little bit more enjoyable.


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MOdEraTION Andy Newman finds that you can still enjoy a glass of wine even if you are trying to moderate your alcohol intake

Three lower alcohol wines to enjoy this month PRADIO PROSECCO NV (Harper Wells, £12.99) Our continuing love affair with Prosecco is good news if you are searching for lower alcohol wines. This example is just 11% abv, but delivers aromatic pear flavours on the nose followed by a crisp palate of succulent apple and pear.

CHINON LES GRANGES DOMAINE BERNARD BAUDRY 2015

PETER LEHMANN RIESLING 2015, EDEN VALLEY

(Lea & Sandeman, £14.50) The Loire is France’s northernmost wine region, and so alcohol levels tend to be lower here. This Cabernet Franc-based wine is from 2015, the hottest Loire vintage for 50 years, and the ripe damsons, violets and black fruit on the palate belie its 12% abv.

(Majestic, £8.99 as part of a mixed case of six bottles) Proof that Australian wines don’t have to be big and boozy: this crisp and refreshing Riesling comes in at just 11% abv, with citrus and stone-fruit flavours balancing a limestone minerality and mouth-watering acidity.


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If febrUary

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finds you returning to wine after a dry January, then congratulations on your willpower. The bad news is that research shows that it is far better for you to have a couple of dry days every week rather than simply take a month off the booze each year, particularly as many studies show that those who do get through the darkest 31 days alcohol-free soon return to their bad old ways, sometimes starting February with a compensatory binge. That said, giving your liver a rest for a few weeks can be helpful if you use the experience to ‘reset’ your drinking. If you have managed to keep the corkscrew in the kitchen draw so far this year, perhaps you now want to regulate your intake a little better for the rest of the year. The one-size-fits-all approach adopted by the government’s Chief Medical Officer, suggesting that we all – women and men – should limit ourselves to just 14 units of alcohol a week, are necessarily simplistic. It is very difficult to communicate a ‘safe’ level of drinking unless you ignore the fact that a rugby-player sized bloke enjoying a couple of glasses with a substantial dinner will have the same limits as a petite woman sipping from an earlyevening Chardonnay despite not having eaten properly all day. The thing about wine is that it’s just so damn enjoyable, so abstaining is so very difficult, especially when you’re tucking into a delicious meal. So this month I’m going to tackle the elephant in the room when it comes to sensible levels of wine consumption: the level of alcohol in the wine itself.

Wine

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Not so long ago, the average R E C I P of E alcohol S - in a bottle percentage of wine hovered around the 12 per cent mark. At the same time, we understood a glass of wine to be 125ml – a sixth of a bottle; so a single glass of wine would contain 15ml of alcohol – one and a half standard UK units. But a combination of technological advances in winemaking, a warming climate, and a public taste for big, fruit-driven wines, often from the hotter countries of the New World, has meant that the average abv of the wine we drink has shot up. 14 per cent is now average, it’s not uncommon to see wines with even higher levels of alcohol, sometimes nudging 16 per cent. At the same time, we have been conditioned to think that a ‘small’ glass of wine is 175ml, not far short of a quarter of a bottle. Pubs and bars encourage us to order a ‘large glass’ – that’s 250ml, a shade under half a pint, in other words a third of a bottle. That ‘large glass’ of Australian Shiraz at 15 per cent abv contains 37.5 ml of pure alcohol, a quarter of the recommended weekly intake. So if you are looking to carry on enjoying wine, but want to moderate the amount of alcohol you drink, there are two obvious answers: smaller glasses, and lower alcohol wines. The first of these is achingly easy to adopt. Whilst glasses which can hold a whole bottle are still commonplace, simply substituting them for something smaller means you will have to pour wine into it more often, and that very act will make you think about how much you are drinking. It’s less easy when you are out, but there is something you should know: every licensed

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premises has to offer wine for sale in a 125ml measure, at a price which doesn’t penalise you for ordering it. Far too many pubs, bars and restaurants fail to advertise this fact, but as a consumer you have a right to ask for it. The other solution – choosing wines with lower alcohol levels – is also eminently doable. Whilst the shelves groan with big, blockbuster, high-abv wines, it doesn’t take too much effort to find good quality alternatives which won’t tax your liver quite so much. Admittedly, this is easier with white wines than reds, where we have become very used to the kind of in-your-face flavours associated with high alcohol levels. But personally I find slightly less obvious wines, where you have to work a bit to appreciate the full flavour, much more rewarding. There is no one-size-fits-all solution here, but there are some clues to be had. Wines from cooler parts of the globe are likely to be less alcoholic, because the grapes will not ripen to the same degree, meaning less sugar for the yeast to turn into alcohol. Then you can choose grapes which are naturally lighter, such as cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir, rather than Syrah or Malbec. Finally, one failsafe way of moderating your alcohol intake is to substitute quality for quantity. A well-made, complex wine with long-lasting flavours actually encourages you to take smaller sips and savour them for longer, and the overall experience is infinitely superior to downing industrial quantities of cheap plonk. If you can’t drink as much as you want, at least make sure what you do drink is the best you can afford.


CHARLIE HODSON

Charlie Hodson -

C O L U M N

Norfolk food champion Charlie Hodson reveals where this year’s PorkstockUK festival is going to be held ON A NOT SO SUNNY DAY in 2014, a very different kind of festival made its stage debut at Redwell Brewery in Trowse, near Norwich. It was set amid the urban feel of railway arches, the aroma of fresh hops and the gentle sound of the Norwich to London train carriages chugging past every hour! We, the Pork Brethren, looked around thinking: what if no one comes, what if it rains all day - indeed, there were so many ‘what ifs’ - but by now we were in too deep to stop! Then, as if by magic, the sun started to shine, the puddles dried up, and people came, with piglets too! PorkstockUK, a free, family-friendly food festival in the day and a ticketed music party at night, had landed. Producers such as Candi’s Chutney, Fielding Cottage and Norfolk Cordial were selling their delicious goods, butchers and chefs including Alan Paton (Stoke by Nayland Executive Head Chef), and Scott Taylor from Infusions for Chefs were talking shop and giving demos, the air was filled with that irresistible aroma of bacon butties and live music, from new local bands, played all day. And people wanted more so, after another year at Redwell Brewery, and a pop up year at White House Farm at Sprowston, we have found what we hope is a permanent and rather spectacular new home for our festival. The amazing news is that on October 14, we will be opening the gates at the Norfolk Showground for PorkstockUK 2017. The synergy between what we believe in - supporting local farmers, butchers, producers, and brewers - simply goes hand in hand with all that the Royal Norfolk Agricultural Association do. We are a non-profit making festival with Norfolk at its core, and those who have supported us from the start include Comm Supply, Breakwater IT, Stephen Plume aka The Sausage King, Icarus Hines, Jamie Archer, Tim Allen, Fruit Pig, Alan Paton, Scott Taylor, and Norfolk Food & Drink. And, of course, all those at the RNAA for what we hope will be a long and growing relationship. Our nominated charity remains Nelson’s Journey, a Norfolk-based charity which helps children and young adults who have suffered a bereavement, for the next two years. Last year we raised more than £10,000 so big thank you for all who supported us.

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VISIT

www.porkstock.co.uk

So, w e ar e back bigg er an d ho pe fu lly be t te r in 2017. If yo u’d like to ge t in vo lve d, m ay be as a sp on so r, vo lu nt ee ri ng on th e le ad up to an d on th e da y, or ar e a pr od uc er, w e w ou ld lo ve to he ar fr om yo u.

The P or k fa m ily co m pr ise s Ja m es Ellis (P or k Fat he r) , Ben H an dfor d, To m Ellis, Sar ah D an ie ls (Que en P ig) an d lit tle ol d m e (P or k Lo rd).


Food & Wi ne Pairing -

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BEST MATES

This month our wine expert Steve Hearnden tells us what to drink with two classic dishes turkey curry and roast lamb

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FEBRUARY can be a difficult time of the year as regards food, as many of us are still trying to lose the extra weight we gained over the Christmas period! I have decided to write about ‘leftovers’. Mostly it is the turkey which gets chopped up and put into the freezer, so now it is time to get defrosting and face it again. Turkey curry is a real favourite of mine and perfect to use up any leftovers. Traditionally a light beer would be drunk, but if you are like me and do not drink beer, then a wine has to be found. This isn’t a problem as Michel Fonnes’ Gewurztraminer 2012 is perfect. I have written about Alsace wines before and whilst most of the whites will go with fairly spicy food, the Gewurztraminer is the best. It has a great bouquet of fruit and spice, with a little herb thrown in, and is very aromatic. The taste is dry to start, with a little residual sugar on the tongue, then an explosion of fruit and spice with a fabulous finish. There is no acidity really, and it blends with curry so well. The vineyards are protected a little by the Vosges mountains and are relatively dry, with hot summers and cold winters - the latter giving the vines time to rest before the new growing season. The Gewurztraminer is a snip at £14.50 per bottle.

IN NOVEMBER I wrote about Sunday lunch and chose beef for my wine. I thought that lamb would be a good alternative this month and it does require a totally different style of wine. In the summer months I would happily drink a good spicy rosé with lamb but for February, I have chosen a Pinot Noir. This grape variety is once again popular and deservedly so. Les Chemins de Bassac produces a brilliant organic Pinot Noir 2012 which was generally a very successful year in the Languedoc. The warm climate gives the wine additional characteristics, including a little more body and peppery aromas and tastes. Do not drink this wine too warm but equally do not refrigerate it. A cool temperature brings out the full flavours, slight vegetal and minerally. The tannins are extremely well balanced and the finish is sound and holds the subtle fruity taste until the very end. This deep cherry red wine has a little residual sugar on the tip of the tongue. However, this is soon absorbed by the fruit and spice – a touch of oak perhaps? It is a rich and smooth wine worth a try at £10.35 per bottle.

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All wine s available are from... Tasteb u

ds Win based es, at Stru mpsha Post O w www.ta ffice, visit stebud swines co.uk o . r conta ct Steve a t steve@ tastebu dswine s.co.uk


DRINKING WITH PASSION Get into the spirit of the most romantic day of the year, with the help of these recipes from some of Norwich’s finest cocktail bars, says Emma Outten

Bond No. 28 THE RAMBLE

‘Set the mood this Valentine's Day with the ideal balance of Tanqueray, lemon juice and a sweet splash of raspberr y framboise shaken over ice. Perfectly Sweet for your sweetheart' INGREDIENTS 50ml of Tanqueray; 25ml of Raspberry Framboise; 25ml of lemon juice; 25ml of sugar syrup METHOD Shake over ice

PICTURE BY

NICOLA CROSSLEY

Bond N0. 28, Norwich, Tombland www.bondnorwich.co.uk


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Cocktail

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The Mulberry

Frank's Bar

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Hawthorn Bar

POPPING PASSIONFRUIT MARTINIand tangy - a

‘Refreshing ho love Martini for those w passionfruit!’ INGREDIENTS purée; 25ml of passionfruit 50ml of 50ml of apple juice; ionfruit vodka; 25ml of pass sh lemon liqueur; 1 tbsp of fre ing pp juice; 1 tbsp of po r syrup ga su candy; ½ tbsp of METHOD ss with 1. Fill your martini gla fruit ice 2. Add the passion all the purée or juice 3. Add ts and remaining ingredien . Shake ice fill the shaker with rms fo st vigorously until fro aker sh e th of on the outside e th m fro ice e 4. Discard th e th n rai St . ss martini gla ss 5. To cocktail into the gla p of your to e th dip e, decorat cordial martini glass in lime candy and then in popping half r he 6. Garnish with eit ible ed an a passionfruit or flower

VESPER MARTINI

‘We nominate the Vesper Martini, named after the woman who broke James Bond’s heart!’ INGREDIENTS 1½ shots of Plymouth gin; ½ shot of premium vodka; 1 shot of Noilly Prat dry vermouth METHOD Shake and serve in a chilled martini glass with a lemon twist

Frank’s Bar, Bedford Street; and North, Fye Bridge Street www.franksbar.co.uk

The Mulberry, Unthank Road www.mymulberry.co.uk

BEE MINE

‘This is a twist on the classic Aviation cocktail, using honey as St Valentine is also the patron saint of beekeepers!’ INGREDIENTS 40ml of blanco tequila; 15ml of Maraschino; 20ml of lemon juice; 10ml of local honey; 2ml of violet liqueur METHOD Combine all ingredients and shake, then fine strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with a cherry

Hawthorn Bar, St Benedicts Street www.barhawthorn.com

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WOODFORDES BREWERY SITE

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In her second beer column for Feast Norfolk,

Belinda Jennings, Head Brewer at local awardwinning brewery, Woodforde’s, focuses on what to watch out for in 2017


COLLABORATIONS BETWEEN BREWERS

It’s always interesting to see what one party brings to their part of the brew, in terms of ingredients and style. Collaboration beers are an interesting topic and something that’s been common for almost a decade. It gives brewers the chance to get together and make new beers, experiment, share knowledge, be creative, use different techniques, and to try to come up with something excellent first time. And from the customer’s perspective, it can often mean getting to drink a beer from a brewery in another continent, country or region, which you wouldn’t usually be able to do. When you get collaboration beers they are usually something exciting - the brews can veer towards novelty or extremities from untraditional ingredients, unusual hop varieties or flavourings to really show off what the brewery can do and give the customer a flavour burst. These are generally seen as a one off purchase for the drinker, but that’s the point - it encourages them to try something new and out of their comfort zone as they can always go back to their favourite tipple next time around.

BEER FESTIVAL

As we get ever closer to the first National Winter Ales Festival in Norwich we are delighted to announce that we are one of four Brewery Bars joining the inaugural event this year, which aims to see

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16,000 people taking part in the festival being held in The Halls, St Andrews Plain, this month. We are all about showcasing the very best in British brewing across cask, keg and bottle and by gaining one of the brewery bars at the festival, beer drinkers will be able to directly engage with me as head brewer answering all those beery questions you may have as well as trying some twists on customer favourites and some new seasonal brews on offer. The week long schedule promises to take in the true breadth of what the city’s brewers have to offer in 2017 and will be a celebration of one of the nation’s biggest passions: BEER.

NEW BREWERS

Small brewers are being taken over by the bigger boys after multinational beer companies — including Anheuser-Busch InBev, Molson Coors and Constellation Brands — have spent billions buying up smaller craft brewers in the US and Europe in recent years. The attraction is clear what with the craft sector experiencing an eight per cent growth over the past five years as well as the shift in tastes to localised beers leading to an explosion of microbreweries over the past decade. Consumer preferences have moved towards lighter styles of beer and away from the traditional lager style. Over time, tastes evolve and it seems that consumers have looked to differentiate themselves from the mainstream through localised beers,

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providence and heritage, which play key parts in consumer choice nowadays.

STAYING IN CONTINUES TO BE THE NEW GOING OUT

There has been a big rise in the take home experience, and experimentation has gone up as more consumers now want the whole experience of staying in and trying new beers or taking them out and enjoying that experience with friends but without getting ridiculously drunk, hence lower ABVs, new flavours and spending more on less. The smoking ban back in 2007 also played a key part in driving the in-home experience, which is why pubs jumped onto the food wagon to ensure they were not missing out on revenue and with many pubs margins now generated from food, it’s also becoming key for food and beer/wine matching experiences, menus and tasting events.

LIFESTYLE CHANGES

People are more aware of their health, and moderate drinking is becoming more of the norm. Running and cycling are often connected with the brewing industry, with many events being sponsored by brewers (Tour de Broads, for example), as the two are often rewarded with a well-earned beer at the end. I run myself, and like to keep a balance of a healthy lifestyle, whilst still being able to have a beer or two.

Visit www.wood forde s.co.uk

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BELINDA JENNINGS

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Kate Cleaver spent a week in New York City, culminating in seeing her son’s end of year show. But not before sampling the best of what the Big Apple had to offer


CHRYSLER BUILDING

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THE ROCKEFELLER CENTER

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S EVERYONE KNOWS, there’s nothing like visiting somewhere when you have someone to visit. So the combination of seeing my son and his fiancée and a whole glorious week of discovering the bars, restaurants and places they have been raving about on FaceTime - was a fabulous prospect. I went last May, just as the blossom was coming out and in the same week as my architect-in-trainingson, Hugh, was showing his end of year work, along with the other students, at the Cooper Union. He and Daisy live in a neat, small, old Brownstone apartment in Greenpoint Avenue, Brooklyn, and that’s where I went to stay after he met me at John F Kennedy Airport (which was pretty exciting in itself). On day one Hugh proudly showed off his neighbourhood, with its cafés which convert to bustling restaurants in the evening, filled with 20-somethings. They included 21 Greenpoint, which was opened by the son of Groundhog Day comedian Bill Murray (he was behind the bar on opening night!). We drank cocktails at The Wythe Hotel. This former 1901 factory on the Williamsburg waterfront has been converted into a 70-room hotel. The sophisticated rooftop cocktail bar has panoramic views over the East River to Manhattan – heady stuff as we sipped dirty martinis and gazed over the view at sunset. We ate at Five Leaves. In Hugh’s words: ‘A ridiculously popular brunch spot which gets quieter for supper.’ For my first supper in New York, we ate smart American dishes which had just a bit of an Aussie accent. It was a world away from our lovely Norfolk eateries and really good. Five Leaves is on the border of Williamsburg and Greenpoint (on the edge of McCarren Park where we picnicked during the week). Day two saw us catching a ferry at India Street, the Greenpoint Avenue terminal, which took us across the river in 20 minutes to East 34th Street. Then we walked for 50 blocks. I had forgotten how comparatively manageable New York’s grid is, compared to London, and with a passionate young architect to guide me, it was fascinating. We went up past the Chrysler building and the Grand Central terminal to get a view of the New York Public Library. We marched up Fifth Avenue, past Trump Tower and Tiffany’s and past St Patrick’s Cathedral to The Plaza Hotel on the edge of the

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CENTRAL PARK GRAND CENTRAL STATION

extraordinary Central Park. Extraordinary because it was man-made and has always a feel of a stage set – very NYC! I wanted to revisit the Metropolitan Museum, last seen when I was pregnant with my current guide/ son and colloquially known as ‘The Met.’ With two million works, it is the largest art museum in the United States. We headed to the Ground Floor’s dazzling exhibition, Manus x Machina, Fashion in an Age of Technology. The Costume Institute's spring 2016 exhibition explored how fashion designers reconcile the handmade and the machine-made in the creation of haute couture and avant-garde readyto-wear. Afterwards we ‘snacked’ on another rooftop. This time the Met Roof Garden Café and Martini Bar. This Manhattan café may only offer wine, cocktails and light sandwiches but you go home feeling nourished from the wonderful sweeping city views. On day three I did a lot more walking, this time by taking the ferry again to Wall Street and the subway back. I walked round Ground Zero and was truly humbled and amazed to see the reality of what has been achieved since 9/11 and the images we all saw on our screens. And since it was a ‘street-wise’ day, I bought a large hamburger from a roadside van. Joe’s Canteen is run by an Army Special Ops veteran who proudly displays his credentials on a large handwritten sign and serves his food wearing his army camouflage gear. On day four we picnicked, did the shopping and laundry and behaved like regular Greenpoint Avenue locals. We rounded off the day at another of Hugh and Daisy’s regular haunts. They love Alameda on Franklin for its vibe. And although the food is a little pricey for them without a parent in tow, they often pop in for their mean martinis!


Reader Recipe LOOK

EAST

There’s no need for a Chinese takeaway as Feast Norfolk fan Dr Anissa Tse offers us this easy pork dish to make at home

Chinese BBQ Pork INGREDIENTS 1kg of pork neck end (without rind); 1tbsp of hoisin sauce; 1tsp of sesame paste or smooth peanut butter; 3tbsp of soya sauce; 1tbsp of sugar; 1 clove of garlic, crushed; 1 shallot, grated; 1tsp of Chinese rosé wine or dry sherry For glazing 2tbsp of honey METHOD 1. Make the marinade. Put the sugar, hoisin sauce, sesame paste/peanut butter and soya sauce in a small saucepan. Bring gently to boil then leave it aside to cool down. Meanwhile prepare the grated shallot and crushed garlic. Add them into the marinade and mix well 2. Cut the meat along the grain into 4 to 5 strips. Each strip should be at about 2 to 3cm in thickness 3. Put the meat in the marinade. Make sure the strips of meat are evenly coated. Cover and put in the refrigerator for a minimum of 4 hours 4. Take the meat out of the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 210°C. Put a roasting rack across the top of a large roasting tin. Put 100ml of water in the tin (this will be used to make a lovely sauce later). Place the strips of meat on the rack. Brush with the marinade and place in the middle of the oven for 10 minutes. Turn the meat over, brush with the marinade and return to the oven for another 10 minutes. Add some more water to the roasting tin if it starts to dry up 5. Warm the honey in a small saucepan until it becomes runny. Brush over the pork and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Turn the meat over, glaze with the honey and return to the oven for 5 minutes 6. Once it is ready, remove from the oven. Brush the remaining honey over the meat and leave to cool 7. Add the liquid from the roasting tin and the remaining marinade in the saucepan used to heat the honey. Bring to the boil for a couple of minutes to make into a sauce 8. Cut the meat into thin slices. Serve with white rice and the vegetable of your choice

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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Se r v e s Fo u r


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BROOKLYN BRIDGE

Which took us to Saturday when my daughter in law to be and I went shopping - straight to Saks iconic Fifth Avenue store with its six floors absolutely heaving with a fabulous collection of clothes, shoes and make up. We shopped, shopped and shopped some more. And since we needed fuel to find the best and least prosaic mother-of-the-bride dress, we had lunch in the Café SFA. This offers elegant, old-style fine dining on the eighth floor. With bird's-eye views of the Rockefeller Center and St Patrick's Cathedral, it was a stunning restaurant for our special day out. The menu is fresh and seasonal with daily specials, served alongside a really wide selection of entrees, salads, and cocktails. And after that was it any surprise that I ended up with a bright coral, skater dress for my son’s Northamptonshire wedding?! So it was nearly time to go home. But not before I saw Hugh’ s brilliant show on the final evening and got to appreciate his work and to meet his group of British/American friends over dinner at Gemma on Bowery, a very kooky NYC Italian restaurant. His final year’s exhibition is coming up in May and I’ll be back!


THE OLD LIGHTHOUSE, HUNSTANTON

This iconic building, located on the cliffs between Hunstanton and Old Hunstanton, has been fully refurbished, and provides a unique experience with a beautiful, first floor open plan lounge, dining area and kitchen, with a panoramic view of the sea and Norfolk’s famous big skies. It is cosy in winter and you can throw open the balcony doors to get closer to nature when the sun shines. With the beach on your doorstep (getting closer every year!) this is the perfect spot to enjoy the North Norfolk coast. Accommodating up to eight guests sleeping in four en suite bedrooms, across two floors, The Old Lighthouse is ideal for families and small groups looking for that landmark property with spectacular views. A fully-equipped kitchen with a range cooker makes home cooking easy, while the sister property, The Lodge (the nearest place to eat and drink) offers a chef and butler service for an in-house dining experience. Visit www.norfolkcoastholidaycottages.co.uk

F

R FAMO ILIES

Got your nose in a holiday brochure? It is the time of year when we start to plan a trip away. So how about hiring a holiday home right here in Norfolk?

Home From Home THE OLD LIGHTHOUSE

Here’s our round up from the region’s leading holiday cottage companies to give a snapshot of what’s currently available

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Travel

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For Hot Tub Lovers

OLD OAKS COTTAGE, REEPHAM

OLD OAKS COTTAGE

This elegantly decorated cottage, which sleeps three, makes for the perfect retreat from the busy world. Nestled within peaceful countryside, guests can relish daily access to the owner's heated pool and hot tub, which are both set in a delightful courtyard garden. If hunger strikes, you can head into town to The Dial House, where much of the cooking is carried out on an Aga. Look out for the scones! Suitably full, you can head back to your cottage, light the wood burner and snuggle down for a cosy evening. Bliss! Visit www.norfolkcountrycottages.co.uk

For Rom ance

HIDEAWAY BARN, THORNHAM

This beautiful barn conversion, an ideal romantic getaway, retains all its original characteristics, including exposed beams, quirky features and vaulted ceilings. Expect open-plan living, with luxury furnishings throughout, a four-poster bed and a wonderful free standing bath! It is located in Thornham, on the North Norfolk coast, which has three first class pubs and a well-stocked deli - and they are all within easy walking distance. Add in the wonderful creeks and marshes of this very special part of Norfolk and this is somewhere for an ultra special stay - with your special person. Visit www.barefootretreats.co.uk

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

IT'S

quick and easy and boy, is Norfolk a great place to spend your holiday. No queues at the airport, no long car journeys and certainly no passport required! Here we offer stunning beaches, acres of countryside, first class tourist attractions and masses of great food and drink. Who could want more? Certainly there are numerous options when deciding where to stay - whether you favour a country house hotel, glamping or a quirky B&B. But one of the most popular options, especially if you have a family, is to hire a holiday cottage. You have all that flexibility, plenty of space and the dog can often come, too. Again, you are spoilt for choice: there are Victorian rectories to tempt you, thatched properties, ones with tennis courts, ones with a paddock so you can bring your horse, ones that back onto the marshes, ones with fishing rights and the list goes on.


Competition

CHA

CE T O WIN ! N

HAVING A GIGGLE

This month we’ve teamed up with Giggling Squid in Norwich to offer one lucky reader the chance to win a meal for four - with wine! VISIT

IT’S ONE OF NORWICH’S newest restaurants and, set right in Tombland, offers diners something a little bit different. Giggling Squid is a Thai restaurant housed in St Ethelbert’s, a Grade II listed building which many of us remember as Hy’s nightclub back in the day. For daytime dining, it offers their renowned tapas lunch menu featuring an array of carefully curated small plates including favourites such as: Sleeping honey duck, Seared scallops with spicy lime dressing and Chicken satay and Papaya salad. Whilst their evening menu has something for everyone and boasts

www.gigglingsquid.com

a tasty selection of seafood, meat, curry and stir fry options. Menu staples include their signature Salt and pepper squid, Giant butterfly king prawn Pad Thai, Thai green curry or for the more adventurous, Lamb shank Massaman curry. For those wanting to push the boat out, opt for showstoppers such as the ‘Stand up seabass’ (a crispy golden fillet standing on its tail with peanut, fresh chilli, shallots, lime, lemongrass and ginger) or the ‘Crying Beef’, a North East Thailand special of grilled sirloin accompanied with spicy dipping sauce. The prize is a meal for four and one bottle of house wine.

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HOW TO ENTER

To enter our competition, simply answer the following question:

Where is Giggling Squid situated in Norwich? Send your answer, your name, address and a daytime telephone number to competitions@ feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk. You can also enter by visiting our Facebook page and simply liking and sharing the competition. Normal Feast Norfolk rules apply and the editor’s decision is final. This competition is for over 18s only. The closing date is February 28, 2017.


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Travel

S T A Y C A T I O N

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For lovers of something royal

PICTURE COURTESY OF

LANDMARK TRUST

APPLETON WATER TOWER, SANDRINGHAM

BOOK

EARLY

Stay in an exceptional Victorian water tower on the edge of the Sandringham Estate. This former royal retreat offers a 360 degree view of the landscape as engineer James Mansergh (who was appointed to oversee the new waterworks) reserved the second-floor room as a viewing room for the royal family and their guests to use on shooting parties or picnics. Head to nearby Hunstanton, to the Norfolk Deli, for picnic fare, and enjoy these views, just as the royals once did. Visit www.landmarktrust.org.uk

LUCY DOWNING OF NORFOLK COUNTRY COTTAGES, comments: 'Whether you’re new to the prospect of, or accustomed to, a self-catering break, holiday cottage staycations are a major trend for this year. 2017 marks our 25th year in the business, and we are experiencing our busiest season ever. Forward bookings at the end of last year were up 28 per cent, and we are 10 per cent up on bookings this year, too. Norfolk is proving a popular destination, as are cottages for a place to stay. So book early!'

For Wal ki ng Fans

MUSTARD POT COTTAGE, FELBRIGG, NEAR CROMER

Drive between the gate houses at the entrance to Felbrigg Hall and then down a woodland track to arrive at the Mustard Pot. Standing in its own large fenced garden, the cottage has been added to over the years but retains masses of charm and character with its octagonal shaped sitting room and bedroom above. There is direct access from the cottage to acres of park and woodland on the estate, with beaches and seaside towns just a short drive away. Visit www.nationaltrustholidays.org.uk

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KALE

At this time of year we could all do with a boost of superfoods and kale packs a huge punch of powerful goodness, plus it’s incredibly hardy, surviving through the winter months. Planted in rows it looks superb as well on the allotment. I even have some growing in large pots in the garden. Kale is grown in the UK almost all year and the tender leaves are virtually fat free, low in calories and full of vitamins K, A and C. If that isn't enough to tempt you, the delicious leaves also contain cancer fighting phytochemicals.

Our kitchen gardener Ellen Mary praises the superfood veg, kale

Ge t a

KoutICof K

E L A


Winter Vegetables G R O W

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ELLEN MARY

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KALE ‘CAVOLO NERO’

Cultivated for over 2000 years, it is in fact part of the Brassica family which includes cabbages and sprouts. Eaten in abundance up until the Middle Ages, it was cooked less as more cabbages were plated up but kale has made a fast comeback in recent years due to its high nutritional value. There are many varieties of kale from curly leaf to flat leaf with green or dark red colouring. Cavolo Nero has long narrow leaves with a dark green colour and bumpy texture. When harvested young, the leaves have the most fantastic flavour and texture.

How to grow

For more information and advice, visit www.ellenmarygardening.co.uk

SOW Seeds can be sown in pots at about 4cm deep and watering the soil around the seedling as it grows is great but don’t overwater so allow the top layer of soil to dry out before the next water. Alternatively it’s just as easy to sow seeds directly where they are to grow about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost or after frosts when the ground can be worked better in the springtime. GROW As a general rule, transplant them to their growing position when the plant has about 6 leaves. Leaving about 45cm between each plant will give them enough space to grow and if the weather gets hot and dry, give them a mulch to retain moisture in the soil. It may be wise to cover over the plants with netting because birds do tend to enjoy the young leaves. HARVEST Kale leaves are far tastier and less bitter when harvested young so start picking the leaves when the plant reaches about 25cm high. More leaves will grow, keeping you well stocked up with all that nutritious goodness for many months. Even if you do have some of the larger leaves, once cooked in a tasty dish you will still benefit from all of the vitamins and nutrients kale provides.

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R EC I P E W I T H E L L E N M A RY

KALE and CANNELLINI BEAN SOUP

Kale can be added into so many dishes, from pastas to stews and made into pesto or even fried as kale chips. But at this time of year a warming bowl of soup for the family is perfectly timed and if you are a meat lover you can pop in a few chopped up sausages as well.

Serves Six

INGREDIENTS 4 full cups of chopped up kale; 1 large onion chopped into 1cm pieces; 3 cloves of garlic finely chopped; 2 carrots, chopped into 1cm pieces; 2 cans of cannellini beans; a pinch of fresh basil; a pinch of fresh oregano; 1 tin of chopped tomatoes; 1 cube of vegetable stock; 1 teaspoon of cider vinegar; grated Parmesan (as much ; as you like); a pinch of parsley to finish off taste to er with salt and pepp METHOD 1. Heat a splash of olive oil in a large saucepan and add in the onions and garlic for about 3 minutes or until softened¯2. Add in the carrots and cook for a further 3 minutes. At this point if you are including some chopped up sausage, now is the time to add that in as well. Keep stirring to make sure nothing catches on the pan 3. Add in the chopped tomatoes and vegetable stock plus the basil and oregano then bring to a boil. After it has bubbled nicely, turn the heat down to low and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the kale and the cannellini beans plus a pinch of salt and pepper 4. Cook for another 10 minutes then stir in the cider vinegar, top off with a pinch of parsley and grate over some delicious Parmesan


Allotments -

F E A T U R E

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DIG IN!

Yo u c a n fo ll o w R a c h e l’s a ll o tm e n t jour ne y o n Tw it te r : @ tr e a tl ik e d ir t

Proud sponsors of

Rachel Birtwhistle’s allotment column and your friendly and knowledgeable first port of call for all things horticultural

01263 731510 www.woodgatenursery.co.uk

Cawston Road, Aylsham, Norwich, Norfolk NR11 6UH


RACHEL BIRTWHISTLE

This month we meet Norwich’s Rachel Birtwhistle as she takes on an allotment plot for the first time, in a bid to become her family’s favourite Norfolk food producer I HAVE A NEW PASSION in my life and what better time to declare it than in February - the month of love. After a few weeks of waiting I have become the proud tenant of a plot on Bluebell North Allotments in Norwich. I am in love with the idea of becoming a food producer, not on an industrial scale, just enough for my family and to be able to exclaim ‘I grew that’! So I am coming out as a gardener or at best an allotment apprentice and my enthusiasm is greeted with helpful observations such as; “But you don’t know anything about allotments.” (I do not). ‘Is this a joke?’ (It is not). ‘Do you know what you are letting yourself in for?’ (Again ….I do not). I am quickly informed that owning a garden does not a gardener make. I should know this as our small city garden is lacking on the plant front. It is stocked with a play tower, much bigger than it looked on the box; a

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set of redundant goalposts and a random assortment of bikes, trikes and scooters, enough to entertain the Von Trapp family if they come to play. The only produce I have managed to harvest at home has been some tomatoes and a hugely successful run of ‘cress heads’ grown in egg shells sent home from nursery. As a child I loved watching The Good Life and have retained a self sufficiency soft spot. This is not something I let slip to the lady from the allotment association who shows me my plot. Her face tells me she has seen a million ‘enthusiastic’ people stroll in with squeaky clean welly boots and an idealised view of allotmenteering - only to see the interest wilt within weeks. My plot is 125 square metres of grass and weeds - I am assured this is how most people’s allotments look when they are first allocated and that I have not drawn the short straw. I am also told quite firmly that I need to

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have physically shown commitment to my plot within the first few weeks as a sign to the allotment association that I am devoted to the cause. I am indeed quaking in my new, squeaky clean welly boots. I quickly realise that there is nowhere to hide on an allotment. Everyone can see what you’re doing. The layer of weeds and grass that cover my plot are a bit of a safety blanket. They exclaim that there is ‘nothing to see here’ which at this sussing out stage I quite like. Thankfully winter is on my side and all I can really do is prepare the soil - surely I can’t do this bit wrong? I decide to go down the ‘imitation is the sincerest form of flattery route’ and copy what my allotment neighbours are doing. They have covered areas of their plots with black plastic to suppress the weeds and are digging like fury the remainder of the ground. So I join them - I too will dig for victory at the allotment.


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Tim Elwes

T H E

L A S T

B I T E

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TIM ELWES

www.sarac enshead-no rfolk.co.uk

KEEPING IT

LOCAL

TIM ELWES RUNS THE ROMANTIC ‘LOST’ INN, THE SARACEN’S HEAD, DEEP IN THE NORTH NORFOLK COUNTRYSIDE. HE TELLS US ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF HIS LOCAL LARDER Who are you and what do you do? I'm Tim Elwes and I run the Saracen's Head at Wolterton, near Aylsham, along with my wife Janie. What is your background? I was born in Norfolk, just outside Aylsham. In my early 20s I left the county for the high life of London to work as a booking agent, organising tours for pop and rock bands. I enjoyed 13 great years before the opportunity to run a ski chalet in Courchevel with Janie appeared. It was a big change in lifestyle and offered the chance to deal with clients more directly. We ran the chalet for the next 12 years and in 2008 we returned to England with our family (three boys, all born in France) and, in particular, to Norfolk. The Saracen’s is rather a special building, isn’t it? The Saracen’s is a rather quirky building that was constructed about 200 years ago by the architect GS Repton. It is on high land, just outside the walls of Wolterton Hall, and the views stretch all the way to the North Norfolk coast. There are thousands of acres of farmland and not a town in sight. The theme to the building is based on a Tuscan farmhouse, with its courtyard and big eaves, but built with Norfolk red bricks and pantiles. Although it's not typical Norfolk in any way,

it strangely fits in, in a ‘Normal for Norfolk’ sort of way! Tells us about your local larder map? It's wonderful to have all this local produce on our doorstep, and our customers adore it. We're forever talking to them about how Robert catches all our crabs and lobsters that he lands at Overstrand, and how our shiitake mushrooms are grown no more than five miles away between Corpusty and Little London. There are lots of village names that people from outside of the county won't know, so it seemed to make sense to have a map and to mark the food origins onto it. What is your philosophy on local food and drink? There are just three words that cover our philosophy on our food and drink - local, fresh and seasonal. These we stick to as much as is possible. There are, of course times when we need to look a little further due to needing a little more variety. We believe that if you look at the menu blackboard in the restaurant you will be able to tell which season you are in! Who is your Head Chef? Mark Sayers, from Blakeney, is our Head Chef and has been with us for nearly five years. His first job as a teenager was at the famous Norfolk

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restaurant, Gashes in Weybourne. From there he travelled and cooked in America, Australia, Scotland and England before returning to Norfolk where he settled down with his wife Fiona. He spent 13 years as Head Chef at the Norfolk Mead in Coltishall, before coming to the Saracen’s. Any future plans? The Saracen’s is not short of opportunities, it's just the money to fulfil them that is in short supply! With the wonderful old buildings and the fantastic setting looking out over North Norfolk we hope to renovate and bring back to life this superb farmyard. A little more accommodation, along with a barn where we can hold private parties and weddings away from the main building. And wouldn't it be great to have a small Local Larder where we could sell some of the produce that our suppliers provide! What are you doing for Valentine’s? Valentine’s is always a beautiful evening with a menu to impress. Fillet steak, beautifully cooked fish, chocolate, of course, and Champagne, but don't expect to see strawberries on the menu! You'll have to wait for June to see real fresh local fruit like that on your plate! We have six rooms here, so why not book one, you can forget about driving and really enjoy your evening and have a delicious breakfast in the morning.


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