Feast Norfolk Magazine July 16 Issue 07

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WARWIC�L (WSS) CIA ST SOREVIEWED

07 JULY 2016

S M O T ISSN 2397-1673

9 772397 167017

luxury in Lavenham

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TAKING IT OUTSIDE - EATING AND DRINKING IN THE SUMMER SUN MEET ALI BARWICK, CHAMPION MARMALADE MAKER SHERRY - NOT JUST FOR GRANNY!

lk *at The Pigs in North Norfo


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W E L C O M E

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A ARE YOU IN THE HOLIDAY MOOD? It is that time of year, isn’t it? The children are finally going to start their long summer break and the weather should be on its best behaviour. It is a glorious time of year for food, with hedgerows starting to groan under the weight of their fruits, fields brimming over with their crops and that feeling of plenty everywhere. I can’t resist the abundance of fruits available - I have a new raspberry cake/pudding recipe that I’ve been making which also involves chocolate and almonds and is simply irresistible, and as for Eton Mess - well, that really does bring out the greedy guts in me! July is a lovely month for entertaining, hopefully with a barbecue or al fresco dinner party, and you can really make good use of our local producers, whether it is a chutney, salami or some delicious bread. If you don’t feel like cooking, refer yourself to one of our main features this month - a guide to pubs and cafes with lovely gardens or views - and great food! I have to admit that I do like the terrace at the Cliff Hotel in Gorleston. The views are something else! This issue also includes a wry look at the joy of barbecuing, a visit to Back to the Garden - a foodie heaven near Holt, a stay at the highly atmospheric Swan in Lavenham, a meeting with the chef of the new look Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe and a catch up with Ali Barwick, Loddon’s champion jam and marmalade maker! Rachael Shakespeare writes about her trip to Cornwall, Emma Outten tries out the new Warwick Street Social in Norwich and I visit Netherton House in Long Stratton to meet the team behind this fresh venture. It’s been great fun - we like to be busy so do keep in touch. We love to hear from you. Don’t forget to follow us on Twitter and like us on Facebook. Happy reading.

Sarah Hardy 03

SARAH HARDY, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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SEARCH FOR FEAST NORFOLK ON

Editor's Letter


In this issue -

C O N T E N T S

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WARWICK (WSS) CIAL ST SOREVIEWED

07 J ULY 2016

TOMS ISSN 2397-1673

luxury in Lavenham

COVERY STOR 9 772397 167017

07

TAKING IT OUTSIDE - EATING AND DRINKING IN THE SUMMER SUN MEET ALI BARWICK, CHAMPION MARMALADE MAKER SHERRY - NOT JUST FOR GRANNY!

*at The Pigs in North Norfolk

06 It's all about tomatoes this month as Craig Grant of Netherton House in Long Stratton creates three juicy dishes for us to try

ABOUT US

REVIEWS

03 Editor’s letter 82 How to subscribe

33 Emma Outten tries a great British menu at the new Warwick St Social in the very centre of Norwich’s Golden Triangle

WHAT’S ON

12 Discover the best food and drink events in our part of the region this month 14 With 1875 bottles of Moët & Chandon about to be drunk this summer at Newmarket Racecourse, Emma Outten does some number crunching before Newmarket Nights 16 Andrew Ruffhead’s ‘foodie’ pictures will be on full view at Wiveton Hall Café come August 18 The news and gossip round-up - we’ve got it covered!

FEATURES

22 Sarah Hardy shares her favourite al fresco eating and drinking places, whether it’s a terrace overlooking the beach, or a village green gem 28 We take a wry look at the joys of barbecuing and what’s hot on the barbecue scene 38 The relatively new Narthex at the Roman Catholic Cathedral has much to offer, says Sarah Hardy 42 Amy Hancock from Redwell Beer gives us some very personal advice on how to limit our sugar intake

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INTERVIEWS

50 Emma Outten meets Andy North, catering manager at Great Yarmouth College on his healthier eating mission

REGULARS

20 Sarah Hardy meets the new owners of The Boars near Wymondham for our New Faces spread 41 Our gadget and gizmo page has the scoop on ice-cream kitchenalia 52 Our Anglia Farmers member this month is somewhat surprising, as it hasn’t been a farm for years! Wroxham Barns comes under the spotlight 54 Our shop of the month is Back to the Garden in Letheringsett, where Sarah Hardy also heads back to the café restaurant for seconds 56 Our artisan producer is Ali Barwick of Season’s Bounty, the golden girl who is something of a world champion when it comes to her marmalade!


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58 Meet the chef – there’s a new food hero at Burnham Overy Staithe: we catch up with head chef of The Hero, Max Emmerson 66 Our Jarrold’s book spread features Jamie and Great British Bake Off queen, Nadiya 90 Last Bite - Jason Borthwick, of Dalegate Market in Burnham Deepdale, has the last word

RECIPES

46 Sara Matthews of Your Gluten Freedom has lollies licked this summer 59 Max Emmerson tempts us with pulled pork Scotch egg with piccalilli 60 Melissa Forti is the Italian Baker in a scrumptious new cook book - you’ll be looking at the pictures as much as the recipes! 76 Reader Zoe Dunford picks the perfect recipe for elderflower cordial 87 Ellen Mary serves up an Eton Mess

DRINK

11 Steve Hearnden of Strumpshaw tells us what wine to drink with our ingredient of the month: tomatoes

70 Our wine columnist Andy Newman writes in praise of sherry

COLUMNISTS

45 Sarah Ruffhead has found another five of the best foodie experiences to tell us about – can we lead her life, please?! 68 Steve Winter of Bread Source tells us about growing your own loaf - yes, really 86 Charlotte Gurney of White House Farm on the outskirts of Norwich tells us how they have had to move with the times 89 Justin Wright of Lovewell Blake takes a look at the implications of the Living Wage for the food and drink business

TRAVEL

72 Rachael Shakespeare heads to the West Country and finds foodie heaven in Cornwall 79 Emma Outten felt like she was in the Mediterranean when she stayed at the medieval Swan Hotel at Lavenham recently

GROW YOUR OWN

84 Ellen Mary focuses on our favourite summer fruit, the strawberry

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THE TEAM

Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Rachael Young Senior Account Manager advertising@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Donna Stringer Senior Account Manager advertising@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

CONTRIBUTORS

Rachael Shakespeare, Amy Hancock, Jason Borthwick, Justin Wright, Andy Newman, Steve Hearnden, Sara Matthews, Ellen Mary, Steve Winter, Sarah Ruffhead, Charlotte Gurney

PUBLISHED BY

FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX

PRINTED BY

MICROPRESS, Fountain Way, Reydon Business Park, Reydon, Suffolk, 1P18 6DH


Tomatoes -

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TOMATOES SUM UP SUMMER AND HERITAGE

TOMATOES

GIVE A COLOURFUL TWIST, SAYS CHEF CRAIG GRANT AS HE CREATES FOR FEAST NORFOLK AN EXCLUSIVE SELECTION OF LIGHT DISHES AT HIS NEW RESTAURANT IN SOUTH NORFOLK. SARAH HARDY REPORTS


CJ Chenery & Son -

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CRAIG GRANT

Craig Grant

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KEEP YOUR EYE OUT for heritage tomatoes which come in all shapes, sizes and colours, and have some wonderful names - Black Cherry, Sun Gold, Purple Russian, Ox Heart, Tigerella and Green Zebra. I reckon it is just a case of trying them all and seeing what you like. Don’t worry about any bumps and lumps - it is all part of them being ‘real’! Have fun.

BILL SMITH

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PICTURES BY

CJ CHENERY AND SON, VINCE’S ROAD, DISS, TEL 01379 642406

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ERITAGE TOMATOES are enjoying great popularity this summer, with foodies enjoying both their taste and their varying colours, which range from yellow through to deep purple. They add a little something to a dish and are fast becoming a must have for many of the region’s chefs. One local supplier is the Chenery family who have been in the fruit and veg trade for almost 50 years, starting with Charlie running a well known greengrocer’s in Diss for many years. His son, Jonathan, explains: ‘We came out of the shop in 1999 to concentrate on supplying the catering industry we run everything out of our warehouse in the town now.’ The pair visit London markets twice a week and also receive regular deliveries from Holland, and that’s before we mention the local producers who feed into their extensive distribution network. ‘We go out on deliveries six days a week, taking in a 15-mile radius of Diss; we don’t go much further. We have good relationships with our customers - if a chef runs out of something, he’ll just call us up, and we’ll get him some more!’ Jonathan, who joined the family business straight from school aged 16, continues: ‘We have seen many changes over the years. People have always loved their fruit and veg but there is certainly more choice nowadays, and people like to try new things, I guess that is just human nature. ‘We’ve watched micro herbs take off, and wild mushrooms, and heritage fruits and vegetables are very fashionable at the moment. There are the tomatoes, and also carrots and potatoes - and they taste good, too.’ The business is a father and son affair with Jonathan’s wife helping with the book-keeping, and one part time delivery driver. But what of the next generation? ‘Ha, I don’t know,’ laughs Jonathan. ‘My son wants to drive a tractor and my daughter wants to go to America!’

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ETHERTON HOUSE is a handsome building on the main road in Long Stratton, the bustling and ever growing little town twixt Norwich and Diss. Parts of the building date back to 16th century while there are splendid late 17th century additions, too. It was the regional headquarters for a leading house builder - think woodchip wallpaper and stud walls - until chef Craig Grant and his business partner Kevin Reynolds set about restoring the building to its former glory last November. Photos on Craig’s phone reveal just how much work they have had to do to make it look as lovely as it does today. Walls were knocked down, fireplaces unearthed, timbers exposed, new doors found and so on - and that’s before some serious redecoration took place, with a new kitchen installed.

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www.nethertonhouse.co.uk

able to peep down at it, plus an old hand pump which was found somewhere in the building, too. Craig, originally from Lincoln, is getting into his stride with his menus, which offer everything from breakfast onwards and change daily. He has travelled extensively and his dishes have a cosmopolitan feel to them - although he is a passionate supporter of local suppliers and wholesalers. ‘Fish is from Lowestoft, honey is from Hempnall but mainly local farmers let me know what they are going to drop me off and I design my meals around that!’ he says. He is very much a fan of fish, having worked in Aldeburgh, but admits to loving puddings, too. ‘This time of year is fantastic, isn’t it?’ he says. ‘There is so much to go at, especially soft fruits. And I am a big fan of heritage tomatoes, they have so much flavour - and look great, too.’ Do look out for the fun crockery as he likes to use wooden boards, mini plant pots and even cute little colanders - and plates, too, just in case you were getting worried!

VISIT

Now it’s a friendly sort of place, with no pretension about it. Downstairs sees a bar and a couple of dining areas while upstairs has a more formal dining room, which seats between 12 and 24 people, making it an ideal place for a special occasion or perhaps a private party. And there’s a lovely, south facing garden with its own bar, barbecue and wood fired pizza oven, and a big stretch of lawn which is perfect for little ones to run about on, and for us adults to mingle on! It also gives Craig the space to hold musical events, mini beer festivals and the host of other activities he has up his sleeve. Craig, previously the head chef at a pub in nearby Pulham Market, has spent a lot of time at auctions, picking up all manner of kitchenalia which now act as quirky decorations around the restaurant - and are a great talking point. Look out for vintage scales, an old milk churn, kilner jars as lamp shades and various kitchen utensils on display. There’s also part of the cellar exposed, with diners


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HERITAGE TOMATO an� FETA SALAD

This is a fantastic light summer starter which is fresh, tasty and easy on the palate

SERVES TWO INGREDIENTS 4 or 5 ripe heritage tomatoes, varied in colour and shape; 225g of diced feta cheese; sea salt; cracked black pepper; 16 sprigs of fresh basil; 1 small, diced red onion; extra virgin olive oil METHOD 1. Slice the tomatoes into different shapes and place in a bowl 2. Sprinkle with some sea salt and pepper 3. Drizzle lightly with the olive oil and let rest for five minutes 4. Add the red onion to the tomatoes 5. Add diced feta and mix gently 6. Tip out and place centrally on a plate 7. Drizzle with pesto (optional) and add fresh basil leaves for presentation

Serves Two

BALSAMIC CHERRY TOMATOES ���h GOATS’ CHEESE WRAPPED 2 in �ARMA HAM �n� BA�ED MACKEREL ��t� a TOMATO, MO�ZARELLA WATERCRESS To me this is a light bite on a summer’s an� �ASIL SALAD afternoon, accompanied by a nice glass A dish for seafood lovers during the summer months which transports me to the Italian coastal town of Portofino

of Semillon

INGREDIENTS 2 fresh mackerel, gutted; 5 large heritage tomatoes, sliced into rounds; 225g of fresh mozzarella balls, (about 2), drained and sliced into rounds; 1/2 bunch of fresh basil; 1 lemon; 4tsps of lemon juice; 2tsps of dry white wine; 3tbsps of extra virgin olive oil; 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt; 1/2 tsp of freshly ground black pepper

INGREDIENTS 400g of goats’ cheese; 8 pieces of Parma ham; 200g of halved cherry tomatoes; salt and pepper to taste; balsamic vinegar; 100g of watercress

METHOD 1. Wash the mackerel, place on a baking tray with greaseproof paper, inserting a nob of butter and a wedge of lemon inside the fish 2. Bake at 190°C for 15 minutes, and while the fish is baking think about the salad 3. Alternating layers, arrange the tomatoes, whole basil leaves, and mozzarella on a plate 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and wine. Slowly whisk in oil 5. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle over tomatoes and mozzarella and let sit 10 minutes before serving

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SERVES FOUR

METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Spray a baking dish ( 9x13 inch) with cooking spray, and set aside 2. Slice the goats’ cheese into ½ inch slices with a warm knife 3. Wrap in the Parma ham and place them in the baking dish with the cherry tomatoes.Season generously with salt and pepper 4. Place in oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until the Parma ham is golden brown 5. In the meantime add the balsamic vinegar to a small saucepan and cook over medium heat for about 15 to 20 minutes or until it reduces and starts to thicken 6. Drizzle some of the balsamic reduction over the roasted tomatoes and serve warm with watercress


Wine -

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AN D TO DRI N K? Wine expert Steve Hearnden suggests tipples to accompany the dishes from Netherton House WE HAVE THE HUMBLE yet delicious tomato as our main ingredient this month. It can be a much abused sweet fruit, with people believing you have to plonk lots of mayonnaise on it or let it swim in olive oil and vinegar. Yuck! But Craig’s dishes are more sophisticated, with a clever use of heritage tomatoes and plenty of fresh herbs, especially basil, which are delicious at this time of year. Let’s take his fish offering first, which simply bursts with flavour. I have stayed true to form and suggested a white wine to accompany this mackerel dish. 1 Viognier, with its peach/apricot bouquet and dry taste, will help blend the ingredients together. This wine is produced in a small vineyard, Domaine la Bouysse, in the Languedoc region of France,

- STEVE HEARNDEN

which usually has hot summers with plenty of sunshine. It is run by by a brother and sister team, Martine Pages and Christophe Molinier, who follow in the footsteps of generations of winemakers. Viognier, from Tastebuds Wines, is £8.95 per bottle, and this wine would also accompany Craig’s feta cheese and tomato salad. Basil doesn’t feature in Craig’s Parma ham and goats’ cheese dish, but it is another complex dish.The wine I suggest is 2 Tamaioasa Romaneasca, from Pietroasa, near Bucharest. The vineyards are on the southern edge of the Carpathian mountains and benefit from their protection. This wine is medium sweet and it does have residual sugar on the tongue when you drink it. It starts a little dry then changes, but not to a cloying sweetness. There are aromas of nuts, vanilla and almond with corresponding tastes. The Romanian wine industry is centuries old but is now being revived by the new government. Wines from local grapes are rarely imported to Britain by the big wine companies and so drinking this wine will be a totally new experience. And it is a good value for money number, from The Romanian Wine Company, at £8.95.

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WHERE TO �UY Both these wines are available from Strumpshaw Post Office, and online at www.tastebudswines.co.uk and www.theromanianwinecoltd.co.uk


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What's On

FRENCH THEMED DINNER

Celebrate Bastille Day at a special French themed dinner on July 14 in Brasserie Bleue at the White Lion Hotel on Aldeburgh’s seafront. Experience the best of Gaelic tradition and classic French cuisine at this fun event. The hotel’s team will even be dressed in traditional French attire for the occasion with striped aprons and black berets. Visit www.whitelion.co.uk

FESTIVAL ON THE FARM

Jimmy’s Harvest Festival takes place on Jimmy’s Farm near Ipswich on July 23 and 24. Headliners on the Main Stage are Reef on the Saturday and Newton Faulkner on the Sunday. In Jimmy’s Cookshack, expect to find Gennaro Contaldo, Jon Gay, Flora Shedden, Richard Burr, Jack Monroe and a Sausage Eating Competition. Visit www.jimmysfestival.co.uk

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BEER FESTIVAL

The Gin Trap Inn in Ringstead,near Hunstanton, will be throwing its second beer festival since reopening last year, on July 23. Various bands will play until late in the beer garden, plus there will be a BBQ and Brewdog beers available so it is promising to be a great day again. Visit www.thegintrapinn.co.uk

School’s out for summer, so get out there and have a good forage for food and drink events in and around the county, says Emma Outten CARNIVAL FOOD

THE GIN TRAP INN

The Wells Carnival Food and Craft Fair takes place on The Buttlands on August 2, when stall-holders will once again be tickling your taste buds and amazing you with their wares. Afterwards, you can take tea and coffee in china cups in the Tea Tent where a range of cakes and pastries will also be available. Visit www.wellscarnival.co.uk

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FESTIVAL FOOD

Latitude Festival takes place from July 14 to 17, offering live music (The Maccabees, The National and New Order headline this year), and festival food in abundance. In the Wellcome Trust Hub, Professor Tim Spector will be talking on the subject of ‘Your Food, Your Mood: Real Food & Gut Health’ and Blixen will once again be offering a unique dining experience. Visit www.latitudefestival.com

SUMMER FETE

The Titchwell Manor Summer Fete returns this year on July 24 and promises to be even bigger and better than before. Celebrate the summer with a fabulous British feast of food and drink supplied by East Anglia’s finest producers and chefs, as well as entertainment, cooking demos and live music. Visit www.titchwellmanor.com

BEER AND CIDER

The New Inn at Rockland St. Mary is having a Beer and Cider Festival from July 8 to 10, with live music throughout the weekend, a BBQ and their usual menu available. Visit www.thenewinnrockland.co.uk

SUMMER FETE

Water frolics and racing of every nature will be the theme of Herbert Woods’ summer fete and regatta to celebrate its 90th birthday, on July 10. Stalham Brass Band will be providing the music and there will be craft and gardening stalls together with Potter Heigham Church selling tea and cakes. Plus there will also be a hog roast. Visit www.herbertwoods.co.uk

SOUTH NORFOLK ON SHOW

See what makes South Norfolk such a fantastic place to live, work and visit on July 17, at South Norfolk on Show at the district council offices in Long Stratton. Just some of the treats on offer include an array of street food, drinks and ice-cream on sale. Visit www.south-norfolk.gov.uk

CATHEDRAL PICNIC

Leading Coldplay and Take That tribute bands will be headlining the new Thorpefest summer outdoor music festival at the Thorpeness Country Club, on Suffolk’s Heritage Coast on July 2. Adnams beer tents plus tempting food and a BBQ will be provided by the Dolphin Inn and White Lion Hotel. Visit www.thorpefest.co.uk

PAUL HURST

MUSIC FESTIVAL

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Norwich Cathedral is holding an Open Evening at the end of the Lord Mayor’s Procession Day – for the first time - on July 2. The Upper Green in the Cathedral Close will be the perfect place to enjoy the sun and eat a picnic, while the Lower Green provides a different vantage point from which to enjoy the fireworks in the evening. Visit www.cathedral.org.uk

COUNTRY SHOW

FESTIVAL FRINGE

The Elveden Country and Craft Show takes place on July 9 and 10 on the Elveden Estate in Suffolk. Expect fabulous shopping, crafts and food and a celebration of locally sourced produce. Visit www.elvedencountryshow.co.uk

Enjoy the upbeat swing and cool ballads from Kitty Mazinsky in the vintage charm of the Folly Tearoom and garden on July 24 and 27, as part of the Holt Festival Fringe. Tickets include lunch, afternoon tea or tapas. Visit www.holtfestival.org

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KITTY MAZINSKY


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Newmarket Nights -

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AS A NEWMARKET NIGHTS regular, I’ve often wondered just how many glasses of Moët and Chandon are consumed on one of those nights. The Jockey Club Live event is renowned for combining a fun filled evening at the races with a spectacular evening concert (Kylie attracted a sellout crowd of 22,000 last year) so it’s no surprise that many race goers celebrate with a drink or two! And on the foodie front, Newmarket Racecourse has world-class customer facilities, featuring an array of award winning restaurants that cater for all tastes, be it fine dining through to delicious bistro food.

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WHAT TO EAT jWHERE.��

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NEWMARKET RACECOURSES

TRY MOZART’S Moët & Chandon Seafood and Grill Bistro, for a selection of land and sea dishes ranging from: squid and mackerel burger; Mozart’s seafood platter; and chargrilled steaks TRY STRAVINSKY’S Fast paced diner, for fresh baked breads; burgers, pastas and Mediterranean and English picnic sharing boards; finish with English strawberries, lemon basil cream and Essex strawberry gin liquor TRY CARROLL HOUSE For an English picnic style buffet – especially the home cooked maple and orange glazed Suffolk ham TRY SUMMER HOUSE RESTAURANT This is a never-to-beforgotten fine dining experience, so early booking is advised. The chefs’ top choices include: smoked chicken Caesar bon bon to start; a main course of seared hake, with crab potato cake and lemon butter; and their very own take on a peach melba TRY THE TRATTORIA For a selection of homemade pizza, baked fresh and enjoyed with a glass of Prosecco

FOOD j DRINK ON THE JULY COURSE, there are up to 60 chefs working in 14 kitchens delivering a range of culinary delights for up to 22,000 guests per day. Here are some more foodie facts and figures: • Over the July festival they will use enough sandwiches to cover a whole furlong • They will go through one tonne of smoked salmon over the summer season • More than 20,000 plated desserts will be delivered to the table over the July course season • The fish and chip shop will get through 10 tonnes of chips during the July course season • 25,000 kilos of English asparagus will be consumed over the summer months • 20,000 famous jumbo Newmarket sausages will be cooked and served from the iconic Powters Rocket

With a number of Newmarket Nights to look forward to this month and next, Emma Outten finds out some staggering foodie facts and figures from The July Course and offers a guide to the best eats AS FOR DRINK, during the 2015 season they sold a total of:

1875

BOTTLES OF MOËT & CHANDON

180,000 PINTS OF CARLING LAGER

17,000

GLASSES OF GIN AND TONIC

g CONCERT�.� J U LY 1 5

KAISER CHIEFS J U LY 2 2 BUSTED J U LY 2 9 TEARS FOR FEARS

MARK RONSON (DJ SET)

AUGUST 12

JESS GLYNNE AU G U S T 27 LITTLE MIX

newmarket.thejockeyclub.co.uk

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LITTLE MIX

VISIT

AUGUST 5

Concessions include AZARFRAN A choice of spicy Mexican fajitas or fresh flavoursome paella BULLITT BURGER ‘Blighty BBQ’ cooked with love over charcoal and wood in an up-cycled ex-army Sankey trailer CHOP & CHIPS Select your chop, pork or lamb and add hand cut chips DUCK TRUCK Share the ducky love and enjoy this nutritious, tasty and mouthwatering meat HADLEYS ICE CREAM Creamy, smooth and deeply satisfying ice creams and sorbets HOGGIES Local pork hog roast with all the trimmings MACC & MERINGUE An English twist on the classic Macc ‘n’ Cheese THE OYSTER SHED Oysters and fizz, combined with a varied seafood offering OH SO BRITISH STREET FOOD A fusion of classic British food with a modern twist using seasonal British ingredients POWTERS The famous Newmarket Sausage, in fresh bread PROPER PIZZA COMPANY Handmade traditional Neapolitan style pizza cooked in wood fired ovens SMALLFRY Traditional fish & chips WANDERING YAK Vibrant vegetarian street food inspired by the incredible flavours of the Middle East WILD FOOD COMPANY A variety of wild game recipes, cooked to order


The exhibition runs from August 1 to 28

www.wivetonhall.com www.fish-and-ships.com

North Norfolk artist Andrew Ruffhead tells us all about his new exhibition which is all about fish! WIVETON HALL CAFE

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BURNHAM MARKET ARTIST, Andrew Ruffhead, who owns Fish and Ships Coastal Art Gallery, is holding his annual exhibition at Wiveton Hall Cafe next month. This colourful, quirky cafe, set amongst the strawberry fields and raspberry canes, and looking over the marsh to the sea, is the perfect setting for his colourful, quirky art. Andrew studied Painting and Printmaking at Brighton Polytechnic, and then Printed Textile Design at the Central School of Art and Design, going on to the Royal College of Art in London. He worked for many years as a textile designer, producing fashion, furnishing fabrics and wallpapers for companies such as Osborne and Little, Designers


Andrew Ruffhead -

ANDREW RUFFHEAD

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

W H A T ' S

Guild and Calvin Klein, before moving to north Norfolk 10 years ago where he opened his small studio/ gallery near the coast. Wiveton Hall owner Desmond MacCarthy invites a different artist each month to showcase their work in the cafe, which serves delicious wholesome food from the farm, the walled garden and local suppliers (for lobster, crab and fish). Andrew's artworks sit well there, and it is one of the few venues (apart from his own gallery) where he sells his work. He will be showing a variety of art; from colourful prints of mussels, crab and sea bass, wooden fish made from upcycled pieces of lovely weathered old fishing boat, and hand painted crabs, lobsters, sea

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trout, mackerel and sardines in white clapboard frames. ‘I love Wiveton Hall Cafe,’ he says, ‘the setting, the styling and, of course, the food. Fresh dressed crab, locally picked new potatoes, and the famous Wiveton salad, is Norfolk on a plate.’ He looks forward to this fun exhibition, and sells well, both to locals and the many visitors, several of whom visit each year as they add more of his art to their collection. His art is fun and coastal in theme. ‘I really am mad about fish,’ laughs Andrew, ‘not just to eat, but to draw as well.’ He has sold his artwork all over the world, and pieces can be found in restaurants in Portugal and California.


COOKING CLASSES

Having spent many years creating cakes and canapés for friends and then clients, qualified nutritional therapist and caterer Nania Tait has opened the kitchen doors of her Golden Triangle home to offer cooking classes in a fun and informal way. She’s just done one on Foolproof Pastry and the next one, on July 1, is all about simple bread making. Visit www.maniatart.tumblr.com

NEW VINEYARD

South Norfolk boasts a new vineyard, Flint Vineyard. The idea for it was conceived by Ben and Hannah Witchell, in partnership with farmer Adrian Hipwell, and 12,000 vines (Bacchus, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc) were planted in the spring. Whilst it awaits its own vines to reach full production, it will source the best local grapes and begin making wine this autumn. Can’t wait! Visit www.flintvineyard.com

NANIA TAIT

News & Gossip

NEWS ROUND-UP From new vineyards to new restaurants we’ve got it covered in this month’s news round-up, says Emma Outten

EARLY BIRD

Make sure you grab your early-bird tickets for Porkstock’s evening party as the deadline runs out at the end of this month! The award winning food and drink festival, on September 10 combines a free, family-friendly, foodie festival during the day, with an adult-only, ticketed party in the evening. All profits go to Nelson’s Journey. And this year it moves to a new venue: Norwich PYO, at White House Farm. Visit www.porkstock.co.uk

TEA TIME

A first year student at the University of East Anglia has started running his own tea business. Tritiki, led by MD Junnel AndreFatah, is a loose leaf tea business with core values in lifestyle and culture. Junnel says: ‘We want to promote a better lifestyle for our fellow students and for people just like us who find little time to take care of their general well-being throughout the day.’ Visit www.tritiki.com

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WINE SCHOOL

Wine lovers across the region are raising a glass in anticipation of Norfolk’s first independent wine education company, which will launch this September. Wine expert and enthusiast, Jeremy Dunn, is about to open Norfolk Wine School, offering an exciting range of bespoke tastings and courses at The Library and St Andrew’s Brewhouse. Visit www.norfolkwineschool.com

FISH ALE

The Maids Head Hotel has launched Murtel Fish Ale, a new signature beer brewed by Woodforde’s. The beer takes its name from the Murtel Fish Tavern, the Maids Head’s predecessor, which was trading on Wensum Street, then known as Cook Rowe, from at least 1287. Visit www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk

LOCALLY SOURCED

The latest figures from YouGov show that Norfolk is leading the way in supporting local producers, with a whopping 42 per cent of respondents saying they had bought local produce in the last week. This compares to a national figure of only 25 per cent. The research was commissioned by Sourced Locally champion, the East of England Co-op. Visit www.eastofengland.coop

PROUDLY NORFOLK PUB OF THE YEAR

The Fat Cat Brewery Tap in Norwich has been judged as the best pub in Norfolk for 2016 by members of the Norfolk branches of CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale). The pub will now go on to the next stage of the competition, East Anglian Pub of the Year, in which they will go up against the likes of the Stanford Arms in Lowestoft. Visit www.fatcattap.co.uk

NEW BREW

Norwich has long been associated with the production of mustard and, in recognition of this part of the city’s heritage, Chalk Hill Brewery, based at the Coach & Horses on Thorpe Road, has launched a brand new summer ale called Mustard Ale. It is the first new brew to be created by new head brewer, Robbie Wincup. Visit www.thecoachthorperoad.co.uk

Double congratulations to Mike and Samantha Fish of Scrummy Pig, based at Wroxham Barns, as not only have they just become Norfolk’s first Proudly Norfolk Produce Shop (officially launched by chef Richard Hughes) but they have also been nominated in the Norfolk Food Heroes Food and Drink Awards under Best New Food Or Drink Venture. Visit www.scrummypig.co.uk

NEW RESTAURANT

Being a fan of Mexican food, I’m looking forward to trying out the new Blue Agave restaurant in Norwich’s Cathedral Quarter. Owner Jason Coolbaugh’s signature dish is carnitas, pulled pork slow-cooked to perfection to a recipe originating from the state of Michoacán, plus the bar has more than 50 tequilas and mezcals – what’s not to like? Visit www.blueagave.co.uk


New Faces

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www.theboars.co.uk

KEIRON TOVELL

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Take a classic

English country pub, great food, a lovely cottage garden, a fine wine list and real ales and, well, you have The Boars at Spooner Row, near Wymondham. This South Norfolk pub has new owners, Russell and Clare Evans, who live just yards away. Russell, who used to own an advertising agency in Norwich and London, explains: ‘It has been our village pub for years and we really didn’t want to lose it. It is very much a part of community life.’ So earlier this year the couple bought the freehouse, and without it closing for a single day, it has a refreshed decor with a lovely neutral colour scheme, a new chef and menu and Russell has found a home for his extensive collection of advertising posters and memorabilia, and contemporary art! The Boars dates back to the turn of the last century, and there’s a French Art Deco feel to it all, with plenty of original features such as big fireplaces and parquet flooring all still in place. The original thatched building was actually sited next door but burned down in 1926 and the remains can still be seen; it now looks like a prime building spot to me! Central to the smooth running of the pub is general manager Laura (Lou) Bird

who worked for the previous owners, too. She explains: ‘We’re putting food as our priority; we want to be a destination dining pub but we also want to offer locals somewhere they can visit regularly for well priced and good quality dishes.’ Russell adds: ‘Yes, that is very much our plan, we have main courses starting at £10 and moving up to £20. The menu will change every couple of months, and we have daily specials, too.’ Head chef James Stewart has joined from Elveden Estate and is committed to using local produce and suppliers including DJ Barnard from nearby Shropham for meats. The well thought out menu includes everything from sharing boards to classic burgers and fish and chips, plus more ambitious offerings such as belly of pork, braised shin of beef and roast fillet of turbot. I tucked into a colourful ravioli dish, with a tomato, chilli and oregano sauce, which was just right for lunch while my colleague tackled the chicken katsu curry, which had a hint of coriander, and we were both well satisfied with our choices. I had a good look at the desserts, and was taken by the ‘Pina Colada’ which sees a coconut brûlée, spiced rum and pineapple sorbet and candied pineapple on offer. Next time, for sure!

Foo d is serv ed from Tue sday to Sun day, and it is reco mmend ed that you boo k at wee ken ds. Call 01953 605851

OWNERS CLARE AND RUSSELL EVANS ARE PICTURED WITH GENERAL MANAGER LAURA BIRD

Youngsters are well looked after, with a Little Piglets menu offering them many of their favourites, and they can also enjoy a half portion of anything from the standard menu, too. Dietary requirements can also be catered for. And there’s a very good wine list, six cask ales from the likes of Wolf Brewery, from Besthorpe near Attleborough, and Norwich’s Bullards Beers, which is co owned by Russell and Clare, and the range of artisan spirits is being developed, too. The pub boasts several different areas: there’s a snug bar where dogs are welcome, and which is due to be extended, a main bar area and a restaurant so around 70 diners can be catered for in one go. For my money, the garden is a real bonus at this time of year. There’s a cottage garden feel to it, with glorious delphiniums, roses, salvias and lupins, all tumbling over each other. It’s lovely and sheltered, and Lou plans to renovate a pretty little garden house, making it an ideal spot for a private party. Various events and activities such as wine tastings are planned for the coming months but everything is being done with a light touch, as the new owners want to get things right. ‘It’s evolution, not revolution,’ laughs Russell.


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WE’RE BLESSED in Norfolk in that the climate is generally rather good and, with all that countryside and coastline, eating outside is a real pleasure during the summer months. There’s everything from tucked away city centre spots, like the terrace garden at the Britons Arms coffee house in historic Elm Hill, to Titchwell Manor’s rather splendid walled garden which is a real sun trap! Here are just a few of my personal favourite spots to enjoy a lunch or simply a cool glass of vino - and a few suggested by our Twitter followers!

THE BOATHOUSE, ORMESBY

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THE EARLE ARMS, HEYDON www.earlearms.vpweb.co.uk This still relatively unknown village has one road in and out! Just off the main Norwich to Holt road, the village is privately owned and often used for filming as it is so unspoilt. There’s a great tea room but I love the 16th century freehouse, the Earle Arms. It sits, very prettily, on the village green. Sure, it boasts its own little garden but sitting on the green, looking at all the picture postcard cottages, in the shadow of the church is just sublime. The menu is extensive, with venison sausages, whole baked sea bass, lamb kebabs and a great Sunday roast! The real ales are well kept, too.

THE BOATHOUSE, ORMESBY www.theboathouseormesbybybroad.co.uk It’s often hard to find somewhere right next to water in The Broads but this is just the spot. It has been totally reworked by Norwich’s Michael and Belinda Minors from the old Eel’s Foot pub which was quite the place back in the day. Now it has 11-acres of lovely grounds with plenty of tables and chairs to enjoy the view over Ormesby Broad and all its wonderful wildlife. The menu offers plenty of choice, from lighter bites to a traditional Sunday carvery. It is also a popular wedding venue, with the brides arriving by water which is a lovely sight!

MORE GREAT PLACES OVERLEAF

THE GEORGIAN TOWNHOUSE HOTEL, NORWICH www.thegeorgiantownhousenorwich.com This place, a boutique hotel crossed with a trendy bar and restaurant, has finally found its feet after many previous reincarnations. Now a firm favourite with Norwich City footballers, the garden is a real pull in the warmer months. The large outdoor barbecue serves up flame grills and spit roasts, and, with 60 gins to try, too, what’s not to like. Its a lovely spot, opposite the Roman Catholic Cathedral, and my choice for a post-work early session!

THE WHITE HORSE, BRANCASTER www.whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk I have to admit that I celebrated a rather ‘big’ birthday with lunch on the glorious terrace here last summer. It’s a magical place, with amazing views across the marshes to Scolt Head Island. You can’t book a table so you have to be lucky but the conservatory has equally great views. The menu has, quite rightly, an accent on seafood and, if you can’t tear yourself anyway, the White Horse has several bedrooms, too.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

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‌a taste of Norfolk life

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info@briarfieldshotelnorfolk.co.uk

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THE CLIFF HOTEL, GORLESTON

THE CLIFF HOTEL, GORLESTON www.thecliffhotel.co.uk The handsome Cliff has been a big part of Gorleston life since 1898, and the terrace has been a recent fabulous addition. With its open views out to sea and the harbour, it is a real sun trap and that’s before the roof and heaters! You can eat outside all day and high tea on the terrace is a real treat. I’ve always enjoyed their meat dishes, especially their Red Poll, and the Ploughman’s is recommended, along with all the puds! Be sure to nip down the steps to the beach, too, as those golden sands are so inviting.

THE GUNTON ARMS, THORPE MARKET

THE GUNTON ARMS, THORPE MARKET www.theguntonarms.co.uk This super pub, owned by Chelsea art dealer Ivor Braka since 2009, stands on the edge of a deer park which is part of the 1000-acre Gunton Estate. It has a lovely terrace with wide open views where you often spot your supper! Bag one of the long

tables, designed for sharing, and tuck into say a Blythburgh pork chop, a whole chicken or a dressed Cromer crab. Much is cooked on an open fire in the Elk Room. There are blankets and braziers to keep you warm as evenings draw to a close. Do make sure you take in the art on the walls inside, as some of it is, ahem, unusual! I say no more.


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ARE FRIENDS ELECTRIC?

Many will know of Hughes Electrical as an East Anglian firm but did you know it has 15 stores, three delivery/repair depots and a huge central warehouse, in Norfolk alone? Feast Norfolk reports on its successful trade department FROM MODEST BEGINNINGS in 1921, rewinding electric motors for the Lowestoft fishing fleet, Hughes Electrical quickly moved into the supply and rental of radio, followed by television, then kitchen appliances. Now, in the 21st century, the family owned firm is flourishing under the management of the grandchildren of the founder, with more than 900 employees and a listing in the top 50 largest Norfolk and Suffolk companies. It may come as a surprise that Hughes also has a successful trade department specialising in business to business, commercial laundry and business rental, as this section rarely advertises (most of the growth is from word of mouth and referral). Now in its 10th year, the Hughes Trade business department is based within the largest Hughes store, in Hall Road, Norwich. More than 40 members of staff are focused on providing businesses of all kinds with their electrical products. All sectors are supported including construction, education, care and hospitality. The department is very experienced, with many in the team boasting a decade or two in the supply channel. The Hughes Trade team also incorporates a specialist department supplying commercial laundry and dishwashing products, offering sales, rental, service and repair of all the major commercial brands via a regional network of fully trained engineers. The section is a Miele Professional Partner and one of a handful of UK Certified Service Partners providing installation and engineering services on the manufacturer’s behalf – considered to be the leading brand in the industry. A transactional website allows individual customers the ability to check stock, place orders and obtain their account histories. Many customers opt to receive invoices and statements electronically too, meaning the whole process is paper free. Hughes are a major renter of electricals with television, audio kitchen appliances and computer products such as laptops and iPads amongst the most popular requested product groups. Rental is an increasingly popular method to acquire electrical products - customers are used to obtaining their mobile phones, cars and houses this way. The Hughes Business Rental department even became the preferred supplier to London 2012 with thousands of items rented in and around the games, which was also replicated at Glasgow 2014. More recently, the team provided a short term rental of 255 large items to a movie shot in Scotland, to be released in January 2017. Hughes Trade is fully conversant in the electrical product needs of a business, offering a full suite of related services.

THE HUGHES TRADE department, formerly known as TED – Trade Electricals Direct, handles all business and commercial operations from the Norwich store and can be contacted on 01603 750444. You can find Hughes retail stores in Diss, Thetford, Kings Lynn, Great Yarmouth, Hunstanton, Swaffham, Fakenham, Cromer, East Dereham, Wymondham, Gorleston, North Walsham and three in Norwich (Mason Rd, Hall Rd, and White Lion St) or via the website www.hughes.co.uk


alL

fired

Up!

As the summer holidays beckon and the temperatures rise (in theory), there's pretty much only one thing on her mind, says Emma Outten, and that’s her annual barbecue

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BBQs

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OW I’M NOT normally one to go in for gender stereotyping but there has, historically, been a hard and fast rule in our house regarding our annual BBQ (cum summer soirée): if you are the first man to arrive, then, I’m afraid to say, you will be donning an apron and slaving over the hot coals! It’s worked relatively well over the years, give or take the odd unfortunate incident involving still frozen chicken legs. It’s not that I would be incapable of doing it myself – I just don’t consider myself to be the man for the job (why bear the responsibility of potentially poisoning your party guests when you can make yourself busy dispensing drinks instead?). Plus, men do seem to relish the prospect of brandishing a bottle of beer in one hand and a pair of tongs in the other, don’t they? It must go all the way back to early man learning to cook over an open fire. Whatever the origins of this very manly outdoor pursuit – and some etymologists believe the word barbecue derives from the language of the Taino people of the Caribbean - it’s the one summer tradition that continues to separate the men from the women. Cast your mind back to the 1980s when mister Crocodile Dundee himself, Paul Hogan, was urging us all to come to the land Down Under and ‘slip another shrimp on the barbie’. Back in Britain, burgers and bangers are our tried and tested BBQ staples (although I have to say that the best barbecued food

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I’ve ever tasted was freshly caught trout way back when I was a student). These days we are getting ever keener to impress our neighbours, with the likes of lobster and prime cut steak jostling for space on the grill (and ordering in an organic BBQ meat box especially for the occasion is becoming quite the thing). As for the apparatus itself, we’ve been hearing a lot here at Feast HQ about the Argentine Grill, which is different to your common or garden charcoal barbecues, as it features a side wheel to allow the grill height to be raised and lowered, giving greater control over heat intensity - fancy. Or else there’s the Big Green Egg, which is billed as the ultimate cooking experience, and far more than just a BBQ – you can literally cook an entire meal on it, apparently. This is very much a top-ofthe range product – expect to spend a cool couple of grand on one complete with a royal mahogany table as a base. Trend-wise, we have it on good authority that woodfired grilling is set to be a big in 2016, with more and more restaurants using this natural cooking technique. If barbecuing is a bit beyond you, you could always wait for your neighbour to invite you over - yet again. Or simply make the most of the beer tent and BBQ at whatever summer festival you’re planning on going to this summer. As for me, there’s been an unexpected development to my annual BBQ plans – I’ve met a lovely man who appears to like, perish the thought, cooking on gas!

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At Thornham Deli we’ve got it covered

Middle of nowhere, centre of everywhere!

BBQ in style with our funky glass-ware and cutlery; celebrate with our delicious Norfolkbrewed craft beer, our incredible range of gins or our hand-picked, top quality wine; choose the finest ingredients from our deli for the tastiest picnics.

So much more t han just a Deli… Thornham Deli, High Street, Thornham, Norfolk PE36 6LX 01485 512 194 | www.thornhamdeli.co.uk

Fresh, local and seasonal is our ethos here at the Saracen’s Head, so come and enjoy a delicious, locally sourced meal in our restaurant or courtyard garden. In July & August we will be open 7 days a week. Lunch orders will be taken from 12.00 to 2.30. Dinner from 6.30 to 9.00, except Sundays and Mondays 6.30 to 8.30 For further information or to make a booking call us on 01263 768909 or email info@saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk

“Thornham Deli has an absolute cornucopia of things to take your fancy - from kindling to croissants, pies to pyjamas, (I didn’t actually see any, but I bet they do them!).” REVIEW ON TRIPADVISOR

www.saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk


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ORCHARD FARM AND BUTCHERS SHOP

Holverston, near Norwich, visit www. facebook.com/orchardfarmnorfolk Owners Val Whitworth and Chris Cole opened their doors to Orchard Farm Shop more than eight years ago and their joint venture has been a great success story since day one! Both are passionate about rearing high welfare animals and selling top quality meats. They breed Texel sheep, known for the leanness, flavour and tenderness of their meat, which live happily alongside their chickens and ducks. Thanks to the quality of the meat and their open door policy, the farm shop just keeps growing in popularity with customers, local restaurants and hotels. Val says: ‘Customers love to watch us making their sausages or stuffing pork steaks! And gluten free products are also a big part of our sales now.’ THORPE BUTCHERS

Yarmouth, Road, Thorpe St Andrew, Norwich, visit www.thorpebutchers.co.uk

F I V E OSFT THE BE d

ecue an Having a barb uality pq looking for to ound ar meat? Here’s r best ou up of some of p! places to sho

This family run business, in the heart of Thorpe St Andrew, was established in 1925 and has been run by two brothers, Andy and Tony, for almost 30 years. All their meats, which include beef, lamb, pork, game and chicken, are traceable and sourced locally from reputable Norfolk farms, including Blake’s Bull Farm on Reepham Road. The shop also has a five star hygiene rating. Sausages are a real favourite in the barbecue season, with more than 30 different varieties to choose from, and there’s also a gluten free option. Don’t forget to ask about other delicious barbecue meats on offer as there’s plenty of choice for all tastes to enjoy! ARCHER'S BUTCHERS

Plumstead Road, Norwich, visit www.archersbutchers.com

This award-winning butcher’s they’ve scooped the Norfolk Food and Drink Battle of the Bangers title a magnificent six times and been runners-up in a national barbecue competition - has a fantastic selection of barbecue goodies, from butterfly

legs of lamb in juicy marinades, to stuffed pork chops, stunning kebabs, ribs and jumbo pork sausages. Barbecue packs, with a selection of treats, are also available, from two to 10 people. Jamie Archer sums up the business by saying: ‘Providing our customers with best local free range meat, from Norfolk farms, at a competitive price, with great service, is at the heart of what we do.’ WALSINGHAM FARM SHOP

Little Walsingham, visit www.walsingham.co

The butchery team at Walsingham have some great barbecue ideas. Their traditional Walsingham sausage features their own blended recipe (no packet mixes here) and uses outdoor reared pork from South Creake. The burgers use beef from the Walsingham estate and come in varying sizes including a large 5inch. The fat to meat content is specially prepared for flame grilling, indeed, the secret recipe is enhanced by the smokiness of the grill. Add in the range of rubs from Greek recipe to Piri Piri, kebabs made to your personal preference, their selection packs including mix and match offers and you have everything you need from this one lovely farm shop. COXFORDS BUTCHERS

Market Place, Aylsham visit http://simonpayne.wix.com/ coxfordsbutchers

Jason and Johnny are proud to sell quality local Norfolk meats. Their impressive counter display features the inventive and unusual with a fabulous range for the barbecue. Try a beef truffle - a beef burger with chimichurri sauce, mozzarella, spring and red onion which gives a melting middle once cooked. Their award winning traditional sausage is made with Aylsham pork plus there’s a honey roast, leek and stilton, and a black pudding pork sausage to choose from. If it’s a burger you fancy they have steak burgers with caramelised red onion or a minted lamb burger. And with 30 different rubs and marinades available, gluten free sausages and burgers and even a slimming world sausage, you really are spoilt for choice.



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The Mad Moose in Norwich’s Golden Triangle has just relaunched as the

Warwick St Social,

or WSS for short, by soon-to-be Great British Menu candidate, Daniel Smith, and his business partner

EMMA OUTTEN dined there just a few days after it opened

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where to go for my birthday meal with the ‘NCT mums’, as I’ve always called them (that’s National Childbirth Trust, in case you’re wondering). But this year it was a no-brainer, as the Mad Moose in Norwich’s Golden Triangle had just relaunched as the Warwick St Social (WSS) and we could all remember eating there when our babies really were still babes-in-arms. WSS is the latest development from the owners of The Ingham Swan and The Wildebeest – Chef Patron Daniel Smith and his business partner Gregory Adjemian - and is billed as an urban meeting place and a hub to eat, drink and socialise. The interiors have been designed by London-based Kathryn Mazure-Hudson, and, as for the exterior? Well, we spotted the large outside terrace as we headed upstairs for dinner – and it could possibly be the best kept secret in the Golden Triangle. We were especially looking forward to our meal as we had just found out that Daniel will be appearing on the brand new series of The Great British Menu on BBC2 later this year, following in the footsteps of Richard Bainbridge of Benedicts (he who did so triumphantly well last year). At WSS, Daniel has been commissioned to contribute classic dishes with a modern twist - a seasonal approach with fresh fruit and veg grown on their very own farm, locally-sourced meat and fish, artisan breads (baked twice daily on site) and ice creams made from scratch. We went on a Friday, when you can opt in to the just launched ‘Fizz & Fish Fridays’ if you so wish (when the iconic British meal is paired perfectly with a lovely chilled glass of bubbly). Talking of drink, we shared a bottle of the Sacchetto, Pinot Grigio Venezie Giulia (£20), and our request for tap water was the only time during the course of the evening when we realised that it is still very early days for WSS (our very chatty waitress informed us that there was a water jug shortage). She also warned us that service might be a bit slow but, to be fair, it wasn’t something we noticed. For starter options read small plates. The three of us shared Cheese Fritters – Baron Bigod cheese with honey, thyme and almonds, plus sourdough melba toast (£6); Noccella Olives (£3); and Mackerel – pan fried fresh mackerel, charred lime, crème fraiche, watercress and beetroot salsa (also £6). With a couple of fritters and a couple of pieces of mackerel on offer, I imagine these plates would be perfect for two to share; instead, we set about apportioning each into thirds - never as easy as halving and I don’t know why!). The fritters came in a bowl lined with logoed Warwick St Social greaseproof paper – a nice touch, I thought. For mains, I went for the WSS Burger (chargrilled beef burger, cheese, onion rings, harissa alioli, tomato, brioche bun and French fries

DANIEL SMITH

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"We were especially looking forwar d to our meal as we had just found out that Daniel will be appear ing on the brand new series of The Great British Menu on BBC2 later this year"

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(£12.50). Special mention goes to the onion rings, which would, quite frankly, run rings around any other onion rings you might eat on a Friday night with your fish and chips. One of my NCT mums had the Stone Bass: a pan roast stone bass fillet with roast ratatouille, garlic crevette prawns, and saffron potatoes (£14.50); whilst the other had the Sea Salt Belly Pork, with Maldon sea salt, truffle oil baked celeriac, Emmental potato and caramelised shallot (£13.50). Now, I should probably mention that this particular friend would be the first to admit that she doesn’t fall into the ‘I’m not one to complain’ category of diner. So it came as a great relief when she declared the pork – which looked like two savoury custard cream slices arranged on the plate - was the best she had tasted. However, she quickly followed this up by describing the potatoes as ‘a bit boring’. Thankfully, there were no complaints about the saffron potatoes from the other end of the table. Desserts meant Bakewell Tart for me (purely on the basis that we’d just been talking about an imminent trip to the Peak District and it seemed fitting!); the WSS Eton Mess; and an espresso (so not a dessert at all, in fact). My almond and raspberry tart was lovely and warm and was complemented perfectly by raspberry sorbet (£6). The Eton Mess was made up of strawberries and raspberries from the farm, slate meringue, dehydrated raspberries mint oil, and whipped cream (also £6). If you like a lot of whipped cream, then you’ll probably love this. The meringue slates reminded me of The Shard in London, rising up, as they did, out of the very creamy concoction below. On the way out, we were almost tempted to join friends in the busy bar below (one was drinking Adnams Gin and Fevertree Tonic – and G&T doesn’t get much better than that, in my opinion), but our time for socialising at the new Warwick St Social was done. Just for the time being, at least.


L O C A L LY S O U R C E D F R E S H F O O D 3 C O U R S E S £ 3 5 . 7 5 • F R E E PA R K I N G

CARROW ROAD NORWICH


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DING DONG

The Wiveton Bell, with its new chef and locally-sourced menu, is the perfect spot for summer eating and drinking, says Sarah Juggins THE WIVETON BELL, Blakeney Road, Wiveton, www.wivetonbell.co.uk WHETHER YOU’RE AFTER a sunny midday glass of rosé , an al fresco lunch washed down with a Norfolk-brewed craft beer or an evening meal under the stars, complete with a Norfolk gin aperitif, the Wiveton Bell has a style and a charm all of its own. The pub, which dates back to the 17th century, is blessed with a south facing, sunny garden which is sheltered on all sides. While the garden is a beautiful suntrap in the day-time, it becomes magical in the evening, with candlelight and the stars combining to light the patio area in a romantic glow. The owners, Berni Morritt and Sandy Butcher, take immense pride in serving all things Norfolk in their award-winning pub and, with the recruitment of rising culinary star Simon Haynes, they have a third disciple to their cause. ‘We want to showcase all that is best about the local suppliers. That is why we use fish from Weston’s Smokehouse in Cley; our asparagus is from Roger Crane at Wood Farm; there’s salt marsh beef from Four Winds farm and we are surrounded by some of the finest pork,’ says Berni as he explains the ethos behind the pub’s tasty menu. The pub, which has been picking up awards since Berni and Sandy took charge a decade ago, is now upping the ante. A new

chef has been recruited: Simon, formerly of Titchwell Manor, and also with experience of working in a kitchen that went from no rosettes to two. ‘We knew we had to move up a level,’ says Sandy. ‘Yes, we were a recognised food pub, but the others were catching us. We had to do something different.’ That ‘doing something different’ involved a lengthy interview process, as Sandy explains: ‘We went to London and spent a number of days interviewing chefs from some of the best restaurants. I had a simple opening question: ‘What is Norfolk produce and when is it in season?’.’ To Sandy’s horror, the chefs had no idea, so it was back to the drawing board. ‘It’s no secret, we are after two AA rosettes but I realised that we also needed a chef who understood local produce, so we decided to look for up and coming talent, rather than selecting an established chef.’ The resulting appointment was Simon, and the 27-year-old is delighted with the move. ‘I worked at Paul Leary’s in Leicestershire, which won two rosettes while I was there - it’s certainly something we aspire to here. I learnt a lot at Titchwell, but this is a whole different game and I am looking forward to introducing my style of cooking.’

As someone who won the Gordon Ramsay Scholarship at 17 and then spent a year learning molecular gastronomy in Australia, what can the diners at the Bell expect? Will it be lots of foam, smoke and kitchen wizardry? ‘No,’ laughs Simon, ‘far from it. I will use some of the techniques because they allow you to cook with consistency, but the menu will reflect the ethos - local, sustainable and fresh produce, cooked beautifully.’ This is bliss to Sandy's and Berni’s ears. They have built a reputation as people who champion all that is best about the area. The pub retains its cosy character, despite serving contemporary dishes that would not look out of place in a top urban eatery. Behind the bar they serve Norfolk-brewed beers and Norfolk gins and there will soon be a Norfolk Tapas added to the daytime menu. ‘It is written in stone that some tables remain as drinking tables only,’ says Berni. ‘We want the local community to always feel at home, popping in for a quick drink, as much as we want people to come and enjoy a three-course meal.’ And, as the chatter and laughter ring out from the garden area, it seems that Berni’s and Sandy’s vision is shared by their customers.


AN OPEN DOOR Norwich’s Roman Catholic Cathedral is clearly a place for worship but, discovers Sarah Hardy, it is also a great spot for afternoon tea and more! VISIT

www.sjbcathedral.org.uk


St John the Baptist Cathedral -

F E A T U R E

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NORWICH IS LUCKY to boast two cathedrals but most will agree that the St John The Baptist Cathedral is the lesser known of the two. Commanding a fine position on the city end of Unthank Road, it does flatter to deceive as it looks as if it has dominated our skyline for centuries. But those of you in the know will be aware that it was built in Victorian era, from 1882 to 1910, albeit to a Gothic design. It is one of the Norwich 12, meaning that it is one of the city’s most important, nay, iconic buildings, being impressive both inside and out. While a visit to the Cathedral itself is good for the soul (be sure to inspect the stained glass and discover the Duckett Library), these times bring the need to be ‘commercial’ and this, in turn, sees the need to attract more people by offering more activities and events. The idea is to put the Cathedral at the heart of the community, as an important part of both parish and diocese life. The newish £2.7m Narthex, a contemporary extension to the Cathedral built in 2010, is key to this, offering a cafe, venue hire and a bar. And the newish general manager, Gavin Wood, brims over with enthusiasm as he talks of future plans which include upping the ante in the Garden Cafe, increasing the number of functions and, basically, sprinkling a little bit of magic everywhere. The Garden Cafe, which opens from 10am to 4pm, seven days a week, offers breakfast, light lunches and afternoon teas. All the cakes are freshly made each day, and a monthly Sunday carvery is also popular. Fresh fruits and vegetables are provided by the Cathedral’s kitchen garden. ‘We want to make much more of this,’ says Gavin, hinting that he plans to extend the menu. Add in the garden, which is simply brimming over with colour at this time of year, and it is a delightful and tranquil place for a spot of lunch. Private dinners, for up to 12 people, are held in the Priests’ House, and these can also include exclusive tours of the Cathedral showing you some of the lesser known highlights, and a trip up the 315ft tower. Mr Wood explains: ‘We can work around exactly what people want - maybe a celebratory dinner or business lunch.’ And the room used oozes character, with lots of oak panelling, candelabra, silverware and a beautiful outlook onto the garden. Tower tours also take place every Saturday and the view is certainly worth the 228 steps! You have a marvellous 360 degree view of the city, with children in particular loving to spot their schools or, indeed, their own homes. Mac’s Bar, which is fully licensed, is available for hire, along with a couple more rooms, so the Narthex is really is a great venue for parties, conferences, wedding receptions and more. I was struck by the beautiful wedding picture you would get in the grounds. There are also plans for a water feature, too, which will add a little something more. Mr Wood is keen to pay tribute to his staff and also the Cathedral’s army of volunteers who help out on a daily basis. They tackle everything from helping in the kitchens to keeping the Cathedral’s floral displays in tip top condition. ‘We want people to know that we welcome all,’ he says. ‘We have a lot to offer and would love to see them.’ I’m a new but enthusiastic fan of what’s on offer here. I think I’m quite typical of many people in that I live quite close by but had never, in 30 years, climbed the tower or even really knew that there was a really nice little cafe open to us all. And sitting in the beautifully stocked garden, with those classic English blooms such as roses, irises, and lavenders, and contemplating a glass of Prosecco and an afternoon tea, is pretty much my idea of heaven!

THE CATHEDRAL’S annual summer fair takes place on July 23, with plenty of traditional fun and games. The Narthex holds regular zumba classes, there is a dementia friendly cafe held once a month, and a multilingual cafe held twice a month. School parties and heritage groups are welcome. More details on 01603 624615


01263 741392

Newly opened

Come & ! take a look

THE HERO, Burnham Overy Staithe, King’s Lynn, Norfolk | burnhamhero@gmail.com

R E M M SU

www.lakenhamcreamery.co.uk

PHOTO : ©DANIEL ZEDDA

is just an ICE CREAM AWAY

@lakenhamcream Lakenham Creamery


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01.

G A D G E T S

&

G I Z M O S

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Nice

02.

ice, baby

It’s the time of year for a big dollop of ice cream but you do need the right equipment. Here’s a round-up of the most stylish ice cream essentials! 04.

05.

03.

01. Alessi Big Love set of one ice cream bowl and one ice cream spoon, £29.95, John Lewis 02. Set of four soda spoons, £2.99, The Kitchenary Cookshop, Taverham Garden Centre, Norwich, visit www.kitchenary.co.uk 03. Sundae dish, £4.50, The Kitchenary Cookshop, Taverham Garden Centre, Norwich, visit www.kitchenary.co.uk 04. Kenwood ice cream maker, £40, Jarrold’s 05. Kitchencraft ice cream scoop (microwave heated), £4.99, You-Cook CookShop, Hunstanton, visit www.you-cook-ltd.co.uk 06. Gourmet Gadgetry vintage tea party ice cream cone and waffle maker, £19, John Lewis

The Kitchenary PROBABLY NORFOLK’S LARGEST INDEPENDENT COOKSHOP

The Kitchenary PROBABLY NORFOLK’S LARGEST INDEPENDENT COOKSHOP

06.


S AMY HANCOCK

SIX MONTHS AGO I gave up sugar in an attempt to kill off a Candida infection that I’m pretty sure I have had for years and years – possibly related to the fact I spent the first four years of my life constantly on antibiotics for recurrent tonsillitis. After researching Candida Albicans and learning how Candida survives and thrives on sugar and drives intense cravings for carbs and sweet foods, (only to leave you crashing in energy, low in mood with a bloated stomach that looks like you’re five months pregnant plus a guaranteed outbreak of spots on the way) things started to make sense. Since I can remember, I have suffered from a bloated stomach, occasional stomach cramps, blasts of bad skin, recurrent yeast infections, mood swings and a feeling of lethargy, especially after eating certain foods. My gut health was imbalanced, and the realisation that life is too short to keep putting up with these symptoms, I decided to cut out dairy, gluten and sugar and went on a mission to improve my inner health.

Health -

A M Y

H A N C O C K

UP

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ck decided to go After years of health niggles, Amy Hanco us sugar free. She shares her journey with

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TOP

S TTOIP QUIT SUGAR

01

Hot baths in the evening and early bed for the first few weeks

02

Hot lemon, ginger and a teaspoon of coconut oil to curb cravings

03

Sign up to Sarah Wilson’s I Quit Sugar 8-Week Programme – the recipes and support are brilliant

04

Amy Hancock is a director and co-founder of the craft beer company, Redwell Brewery, visit www.redwellbrewing.com

If you fall off the wagon don’t worry, just get straight back on!

I discovered an eight-week sugar free programme and embarked on the journey. This huge lifestyle change meant no more evenings demolishing boxes of chocolates or packets of crisps. Cutting out sugar in all forms - glucose, sucrose and (hardest of all) fructose - was one of the most challenging things I have ever done. No more G&Ts in the evenings? No more beers at the brewery? It was incredibly difficult on my social life but I had made the decision to improve my health and I was going to stick to it. In the first two weeks of my sugar fast, I experienced sugar withdrawal effects like horrific headaches, aching joints and terrible mood swings, and I felt like I was constantly coming down with a fever. Fighting sweet cravings and watching my other half eat chocolate in the evenings and snack on crisps made me want to eat my fist or cry. Watching the kids tuck into a juicy apple and even the smell

of a banana was pure torture. I had no idea how strong my emotional tie to sugar was and am convinced it goes back to my childhood, when I, like many children, was rewarded with sweet treats, so it was very hard to break. I replaced my evening G&T with a hot bath and took to going to bed at 9pm in order to cope. In week three, I began to feel my energy levels increase and noticed that my skin looked and felt so much brighter and, by week four, I was bouncing off the walls with energy, having to walk the dog three times a day just to expel it! My brain felt less foggy, I was thinking much clearer and I had more ideas and energy for work related projects. Amazingly, in week six, I felt much happier in myself; I felt like my old self – giggling, smiling and loving life. I began to exercise daily and became a lover of early mornings and, by week eight, my taste buds had recalibrated and all my sweet cravings had died

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down. I was loving cooking and discovering simple real food (sugar free) recipes, with not a jar or ready meal in sight. The whole experience became a health awareness education, not only for me but for my whole family and they all enjoy with me (to a certain extent) a sugar free life. I’m about to enter my 40th year and I feel stronger, healthier and more in control than I have ever felt. I have found food freedom, no longer hankering after chocolate, bread and pasta dishes and gone are my days of being bloated and feeling sluggish. On a recent visit to the dentist he could not believe how healthy my gums looked and agreed that it was all down to my new lifestyle. My skin is looking better than it has in my whole life and I’ve not had a yeast infection in six months. I’m not going to lie - I still have the occasional mood swing – but who doesn’t!?


L FIRST HIT THE PASTA GUSTO STREET FOOD STAL OF 2015, AND FROM PAVEMENTS IN THE SUMMER NGTH TO STRENGTH. THEN ON HAS GONE FROM STRE Fresh pasta dough ma de from the finest Ital ian flour is rolled, cut and hung up to dry on the stall to the delight and fascina tion of children and adu lts alike. The pasta is then ready to be cooked to order with a selection of del icious homemade sau ces to choose from, like the sumptuous Pasta Gus to Tomato Sauce, Slow Roa sted Red Pepper Pesto or Green Walnut and Par sley Pesto, with all fres h ingredients locally sou rced. Along with a wo nderful selection of homemade Italian olive breads, the sauces and dried pastas are also available to buy and take home for a del icious evening meal.

Gusto at Dereham This season you can find Pasta e Fair in July, Carnival and Strumpshaw Tre gust, Wymondham in Au Wymondham Family Fun Day the Home Tech Show and Vintage Day in September ground. Check the Pasta in October at the Norfolk Showfor all the details. Gusto Facebook page

The Wedding + Party House www.voewood.com info@voewood.com 01263 713 029

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Sarah Ruffhead -

C O L U M N

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TWO

FA M O U S FIVE Norfolk foodie and blogger Sarah Ruffhead tells us the five things she has loved eating this month ONE

Venison Ham

Jamon Iberico to be precise. We love it, and devour it constantly when we are in Spain. It is the dry cured meat of a white pig, and it is typically served as a 'racion', ie a platter of thinly sliced sweet ham, and is perfect with a glass of wine or beer. It is so much more delicious when it's cut off a whole leg as opposed to shop-bought in a packet. I think we ate it almost every day! You can buy a leg of Serrano from a website called Ham Lovers that comes complete with a proper stand and knife. Olé!

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

We have tried this at home and it always has a wow factor. This time I enjoyed it served as a canapé at the amazing 'Art for Cure' charity event at Glemham Hall near Woodbridge, with talented Suffolk chef Peter Harrison at the helm. I love vibrant food, and the shocking pink colour was stunning. It worked well, served on pumpernickel bread with a dollop of crème fraîche. THREE

Wild Mushrooms with Garlic Served on Sourdough Toast

I had this as a starter at the nowfamous (you must have watched BBC2’s Normal for Norfolk) Wiveton Hall Cafe. It is one of my favourite places to eat, especially if you sit outside in the sun, looking across the marsh. Their menu is small and very seasonal, with much produce coming straight from the farm, which is just how it should be. FOUR

Twice-Baked Stinking Bishop Soufflé, with Poached Pears, Cheese Sauce and Candied Pecan Nuts

What a delicious starter from the Push the Boat Out section of the Anchor at Morston's menu. I love this lively pub and its creative food, and we always sit at the same table in the window of the main bar. The

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pairing, so to speak, of the cheese and the pears works well, as the cheese rind is washed and immersed in perry (made from fermented pears) during production, and I loved the contrast of the crunch of the sweet nuts. FIVE

Tempura Tuna served with Radish and Wasabi

Now this starter (there is a theme here, I think, but I often have two starters rather than a huge main course), was divine. It is a signature dish at the Dun Cow at Salthouse and offers two rosy chunks of the freshest, rarest tuna enveloped in the lightest frothy batter, with slivers of spicy red radish and mild white mooli radish. It was such a pretty plate of food that I was still raving about it the next day! Owner Dan Goff says that he doesn’t want to run a gastropub, just a pub with good food. He does.

www.sarahruffhead.com

Beetroot Cured Salmon


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Your Gluten Freedom -

icnics er here, p he m m u s h Wit on t cues are e rb a b d nth I an o this mo ake S . a d n e ag uld m that I wo r al thought e piec s fo of y s a e e m so e full ing. Thes o full t a e o c s fre als cipes are flavour re d vegetables! an of fruits

R E C I P E S

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e, whic style br h is ea delicio d, perfectly m a fudge brow us. It’s a oist, ric nie ls h vegeta bles an o another gre and d fruit into yo at way to get ur diet INGR

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TURN OV ER FOR M O R E R E CIPES!

EDIE 4 mediu NTS m carro ts, 170 200g o g f glute n free p of grated cou banana lain flo r s; 180m ur; 3 ve gette; l of mil works w ry ripe k (almo ell but nd or c yo melted ocon coconu u can use any t oil; 10 milk); 6 ut milk soft br 0ml of 0g of c own su oconut gar; 1ts of unsw sugar o p of va eetene n r il la d cocoa espres so; powde extract; 70g r; 1tsp bicarbo 1tsp of bakin of grou g powd na nd er dairy fr te of soda; a pinch o ; ¼ tsp of ee choc f sea sa olate c free, us lt; 150g hips (if e choco no of late ch ips of y t making dair y our cho METHO ice) D Prehea t the ov en to 1 tin. In a 80°C. G fo reas banana od processor add the e or line a loa s, coco f nut oil, blend u sugar, v courgettes, ntil sm anilla a ooth. P cocoa p n d la milk an ce the owder, flour, e bak salt in a spresso d bowl. M ing powder, b , aking s ix with Add th oda an a spoo ed n until d smooth ry ingredients combin . Fold in to the w ed. t et, and if desir ed, add he chocolate mix unt chips.Y some c il an add ou can rush ed also, Bake fo twist. Transfe ed nuts to the r the m r about mix for ix 40-45 comes minute to the loaf tin out cle . s until a an. Allo transfe w it ske rring to a wire ra to cool a little wer before ck to co ol com pletely


THE WELLS CRAB HOUSE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

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6 High Street, Ringstead, Hunstanton, Norfolk PE36 5JU www.thegintrapinn.co.uk


Your Gluten Freedom -

LOLLIPO�S On a hot day what could be better than an ice lolly? Unfortunately, most of the lollies you buy are full of sugar and not very healthy. Well, help is at hand as here are a few flavour combinations to get you started, with no additives or added sugars. Lollies are fun to make with the children and you can have almost any flavour that takes your fancy. Here are my four favourites. You can buy lolly moulds at supermarkets, and there are some great shapes available, but if you don’t have any, it’s no problem - just use washed out yogurt pots! •These recipes make six to eight lollies depending on the lolly moulds

COCONUT FRUIT �OPS Coconut is much better than water at rehydrating. As it is refreshing and full of nutrients, it seemed the obvious choice as a base for a lolly. I have listed the fruit that I used but you can use any you like.The fruit suspended in coconut water looks so pretty and inviting and although the fruit chunks get hard when frozen, as you eat the lolly, they soften and become easier to eat INGREDIENTS 1 peeled and sliced kiwi; a few raspberries; 2 large strawberries; a large carton of coconut water (you won’t need all of it but reserve some for the other lolly recipe or pour over crushed ice to keep you rehydrated as you wait for the lollies to set) METHOD Wash and chop your fruit and place them in the lolly moulds. Put the lolly stick in the mould, being careful not to crush the fruit. Pour over enough coconut water to cover all the fruit. Carefully place in freezer to set. This will take at least 3-4 hours COCONUT FRUIT POPS

CUCUMBER MINT LOLLIES

R E C I P E S

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These are very refreshing. Cucumber and melon have fabulous hydrating properties so mixed with coconut water, they are a must-have lolly on a hot day

PEA, SPINACH & AS�ARAGUS TORTILLA

INGREDIENTS 1 peeled and chopped cucumber; 200g of finely chopped honeydew melon; 25g of finely chopped fresh mint; 100ml of coconut water

This recipe is equally fabulous hot or cold. It is easy to make and is pretty much a meal in itself so what’s not to love?

METHOD Place all ingredients in a juicer and mix, then add the coconut water. If you do not have a juicer, place all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz until mixed and smooth. Then push through a sieve to extract juice and remove pulp. This lolly does work best without any pulp. Pour the juice into your moulds, insert lolly sticks and freeze

ELDERFLOWER & BLUE�ERR� LOLLIES INGREDIENTS Elderflower cordial; sparkling water; blueberries METHOD Make up a jug of strong elderflower cordial with sparkling spring water. It should taste stronger than you would drink it as the cold numbs the taste buds so subtle flavours get lost. Place blueberries into the lolly moulds, cover with cordial, add lolly sticks and freeze

BANANA & YOGURT CREAMY �OPS Children love these lollies which are creamy and delicious, and a great alternative to ice-cream lollies INGREDIENTS 1 ripe banana; 160g of soya or Greek yogurt; 1tsp of maple syrup - if you don’t have maple syrup, honey works wonderfully; chopped mixed nuts METHOD Place all the ingredients into a food processor and blitz till smooth. This will take a few pulses of the blender. Sprinkle a few nuts into the tip of each lolly mould, then pour in the banana mixture, add the lolly sticks and freeze. This should take about four hours. If you do not want to use the nuts you can replace them with a few chocchips or chopped seeds for a little crunch

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SERVE S SIX TO EIGHT INGREDIENTS 500g of new potatoes; 1 tbsp of coconut oil or rapeseed oil; 1 large or 2 small red onions finely sliced; 1 crushed garlic clove; 500g of fresh or frozen peas; a handful of spinach; 8 stems of asparagus; 8 large eggs, lightly beaten METHOD Dice the potatoes into good size pieces, place in a pan of water and boil slowly (to avoid breakage) for about 10 minutes until they are tender but still with a little bite to them. They will cook further under the grill. Drain and set aside. Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and gently cook the onions and garlic until the onions are translucent. Once cooked, add the cooked potatoes, on a medium heat, and then add the asparagus, spinach and peas. Stir until the spinach has wilted. Pour the eggs into the pan, making sure the heat is on medium. As the eggs begin to set, use a spatula to loosen them from the side of the pan. Cook gently for about 4-5 minutes, as this will have cooked the underneath of the tortilla. Transfer the frying pan to the grill for a further 6 minutes until the top is cooked. The tortilla will be browned and firm to touch. Make sure you turn the handle of the pan away from the heat of the grill! To turn out the tortilla, use a spatula to release the edges, give it a bang on the work surface, then place a chopping board or plate on top of the pan and turn it over. If you don’t like spinach or fancy a change, try using rocket as its delicious peppery taste will work well in this dish. For an extra twist, add a pinch of dried chilli flakes to spice things up a bit


Andy North -

B I G

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to the

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chalLenge The catering manager at Great Yarmouth College is challenged with encouraging 3000 students to eat more healthily. Emma Outten meets the right man for the job, Andy North VISIT

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www.gyc.ac.uk


ITH UP TO 60 Great Yarmouth College students making the most of the learner breakfast club each day, catering manager Andy North knows that they, at the very least, will be making a good start to the academic day. Especially as he knows that, for a large percentage of learners at the college, hardly any will have had breakfast, due to family issues, for example. He also knows full well that well balanced eating has a positive effect on general health, concentration levels and cognitive function and this has certainly been evident with the introduction of the club. The further and higher education college is extremely interested in food education and its impact on wellbeing, behaviour and health. Andy, who is in charge of the catering for all 3000 students and 500 members of staff, is a particular talent at the college although he has been faced with a real challenge when trying to encourage healthy eating as there are some pockets of deprivation within the borough that register high levels of need on a national scale. Coming from near Windsor, Andy recalls his first impressions: ‘It blew me away, to be quite honest.’ Again, for a large percentage of the learners, the only hot, balanced meal they will have during the day will be at the college. Andy, therefore, sounds like a man on a mission, to put as much emphasis on the food element at the college as the

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

ANDY NORTH

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academic element. And it’s not a one-man mission: ‘Luckily for me the support I get here from the management team is fantastic.’ The college has implemented a ‘Happy Balance’ wellbeing initiative which is designed to consider the whole person and encourage students to take ‘action for happiness’ (staff and students have free access to the brand new gym in the Sport & Wellbeing Centre). But there is a challenge with regard to food awareness, as some of the students do not know, for example, what a jacket potato is. But progress is being made: in the Eating House canteen, the dish of the day - oven baked chicken kebabs – is served with healthy oven potato wedges (as well as a low fat yoghurt dressing and coriander salad). Andy has 38 years catering experience, and worked for Marriott International in Asia and London, before going into contract catering, as he needed more of a Monday to Friday work-life balance. He explains: ‘I brought my son up on my own.’ In fact, this is when his interest in healthy eating began: ‘When I was bringing up my son, we made everything from scratch together, so we’d make a pizza or a chicken and ham pie - my son never actually ate any processed food as such, and it was interesting to see the effect that had on him.’ Andy has been at the college for more than five years, and remains passionate about the food on offer to the students. What was the catering offer when he arrived? ‘We sold sausage rolls, pies, a few homemade sandwiches and battered cod and that was about it.’ Nowadays you can expect fruit instead of chocolate bars by the tills. The 53-year-old is constantly developing methods of delivering healthier alternatives (inspired by, for example, Jamie Oliver’s sugar tax initiative). Come September, meal deals and (what’s left of) the vending machines will both be tailored to healthier alternatives. The aim at the college is very much to guide students towards eating more healthily with the help of plasma screens, the college’s online system (Moodle), and learner feedback forums. Andy believes that Jamie has ‘raised awareness, but this needs to be built on.’ For example, he believes that the canteen should be an extension of the classroom,

and that new students should be introduced to it during induction week as if it’s just as important as Maths and English. And he’d also like the opportunity to work with local schools – as the real key, he believes, is to ‘get them early.’ As he points out: ‘When I was at school I had to do home economics.’ Does he think he’s made a difference in the past half a decade? ‘I thought you’d ask that,’ says Andy. ‘Yeah, I think I have. When I first came here the perception of the food was very negative and now it’s beginning to be a two way conversation and a lot of the learners are coming to me with ideas, which means their education about foodstuffs is improving. To me that’s very positive and I would much rather adapt what I’m doing to fall in with what they like, but still be under the healthy eating umbrella.’ Andy flicks through the summer issue of the Great Yarmouth College magazine and points out the chard, chorizo, bean and lentil salad recipe inside. ‘A couple of learners came back and said they’d tried it. Even if one had come back that would be a success.’ And after lunch, Andy emails to say: ‘The lentil salad you saw today on the salad bar had sold out when I returned to the kitchen - there’s hope yet.’

GREAT YARMOUTH COLLEGE, based in Suffolk Road, is a specialist vocational college with a proven track record and reputation locally and regionally for offering the right skills and training for today’s workforce, on programmes delivered in four specialist schools: School of Arts & Creative Technologies; School of Construction & Manufacturing Technologies; School of Health & Social Sciences; and School of Service Industries & Sport. Call 01493 655261


Wroxham Barns -

F A R M I N G

Foo die

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y l i m a F fun for all the

VIS IT

w w w.w ro xh am ba

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der of Ian Russell, foun ading one of Norfolk ’s le s, tourist attraction

Wroxham Barnsit,

is a pioneer when comes to farming mma diversification. E Outten reports

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HANDS UP who has bottle fed one of the orphan lambs at Wroxham Barns over the years? Lamb bottle-feeding begins every February half-term and continues until early July, so there is still just about time for some cuteness overload! The popular annual event nods to Wroxham Barns’ farming past and its reincarnation as one of Norfolk’s top tourist attractions. Set in the heart of the Norfolk Broads, the attraction is home to busy shops, a popular café and restaurant and family attractions, including a Junior Farm which allows children to encounter British domestic breeds. The visionary behind it all is owner, Ian Russell MBE, who says of the lambs: ‘They are orphans who come from local farms where farmers are very grateful to us for looking aft er them. We get them when they are really tiny, so people oft en return several times to feed them and see how they’re getting on. We usually have at least two dozen lambs and we make sure that all our younger visitors get a turn at bottle-feeding them.’ Officially opened in 1983, it was established in a series of redundant farm buildings; and now welcomes more than 300,000 visitors a year. The annual turnover for Wroxham Barns and its tenant businesses is £2.1 million and the site supports the equivalent of 50 full-time jobs. Ian is actively involved in Norfolk’s tourism industry; he is a director of Visit North Norfolk and past chairman of Broads


Wroxham B arns

Tourism, Norfolk Tourism, the people, did indeed manage to is open all ye Norfolk Tourist Attractions’ persuade family members to ar round, from 10am to Association and VisitNorwich. lend him some cash and Dairy 5pm. He has seen the site develop Farm was duly purchased. A and change over the years as the public’s grant from the English Tourist tastes change - now people enjoy eating Board helped with the renovations and out and are very keen on local produce, the site opened, to plenty of interest and a whereas, in the early days, they loved to goodly amount of visitors. shop and were particularly interested in People were, and remain, attracted to craft s. the idea of having a ‘mooch’, as Ian likes to Ian, who grew up on a farm near Hitchin call it. They enjoy the variety of activities in Hertfordshire, came to Norfolk to available, the seasonal events, and the build boats and, along with a couple of gentle pace. friends, hatched a plan for a new business Ian has always been aware of the need while enjoying a pint or two in a local to appeal to all ages, and the site regularly pub. Where else? He’d spotted a series refreshes itself - and off ers more and more. of derelict barns in an estate agency, and Now an award-winning Barn wanted to restore them and use them to Restaurant serves breakfast, morning show people how to repair and build boats. coff ee, lunch and aft ernoon tea, all freshly Despite not being anywhere near water… A made on the premises using local, seasonal mere technicality! produce. Ahh, the impetuousness of youth! Yet The Pantry Coff ee Shop, meanwhile, is Ian, clearly a man who can sweet talk perfect for families, off ering coff ee, cakes

Saving time and money for farmers across East Anglia

and light lunches and boasting a fabulous sunny terrace in good weather. And it is also home to a sweet shop called Courtyard Confectionery, The Cider Shop, and foodie’s paradise the Scrummy Pig Produce Shop, which stocks more than 100 Norfolk bottled beers from 16 diff erent Norfolk breweries and is believed to be the county’s biggest supplier (it also become the very fi rst Proudly Norfolk shop, recently). It stages an annual Scone Competition in September, supported by Norfolk Food & Drink Ltd. Amateur bakers are invited to submit a plate of scones for tasting by a panel of judges. They certainly know their scones at Wroxham Barns, making more than 30,000 plain, fruit and cheese scones every year for the Barn Restaurant and the Pantry Coff ee Shop. The competition is thought to be the only dedicated contest of its kind in the country. This year the event will take place on September 27.

01603 881 881 @AngliaFarmers

www.angliafarmers.co.uk


BACK TO THE GARDEN, Letheringsett, visit www.back-to-the-garden.co.uk

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OW THIS IS A FARM SHOP and restaurant with a bit of a wow factor and some! You simply have to gaze up at the glorious oak-bamed roof to appreciate the rich surroundings and noble agricultural heritage of this North Norfolk treasure. Apart from the fact that it is situated in a stunning building - an 18th century threshing barn - the choice of goodies on offer at Back to the Garden is comprehensive, with an accent on local producers, of course, and much from the owner’s nearby 1000-acre organic farm. The owner is well known arts patron Delaval Astley, the 23rd Baron Hastings and former Archers stalwart! So the place has a bit of everything attached to it - showbiz glamour, historical appeal and environmentally friendly credentials. It is a fab place to eat and shop. I like to start my visits with a pit stop in the cafe where there’s a decent menu and daily specials also chalked up on the boards. Expect much use to be made of seasonal ingredients by the chefs, and it is always beautifully presented. It is usually quite bustling, with a young and friendly staff who take time to discuss the menu and whatever else the burning topic of the day is - it was Brexit when I called by. Enough said! This visit saw me tuck into a seafood pasta dish,with plenty of prawns, mussels and salmon and a hint of garlic, while my friend tried a pulled pork ciabatta, which was much enjoyed. And we managed puds which I think are a real strong point - I tried the sticky toffee pudding which is quite a feature here, while my friend had a strawberry Eton Mess which was divine - I just had to try a spoonful or two.


MRS TEMPLE'S CHEESE

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Foodies in North Norfolk can enjoy a great cafe and farm shop in one delicious setting. Sarah Hardy steps inside Back to the Garden, near Holt We moved into the garden, a real little bit of Eden, for coffee, and then started our shop. Everything is well displayed and looks so tempting, and you can spend a fair amount of time deciding what to buy, whether it is cheese, chutney, or chocolate. You can, incidentally, also pick up copies of this very publication! The butcher’s counter stocks Angussired beef, lamb, chicken, goose and turkey, all raised organically on the family farm. Rare breed, outdoor reared pork is sourced locally as are the fruit and veg offerings. There’s a real accent on local producers if you are there in the morning you’ll often meet them delivering their fresh pies, cakes and breads. Look out, for example, for Mrs Temple’s cheeses, Marsh Pig charcuterie, Candi’s Chutneys, Whin Hill Cider and Jo

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

A craft fair

Coubrough beers. And real looks simply stunning by is being held attention is given to people candlelight. Plans are also afoot on July 23 and 24 an with eating restrictions, to introduce actual wedding d don’t forget Holt Fe such as gluten free. ceremonies at the barn as they stival from July 23 General manager hope to acquire a licence and to 31 Christopher Allen, who to develop a home delivery has been at Back to the Garden for five service. Outside catering is years, comments that shoppers enjoy another branch of this thriving business. the large deli counter, especially the Baron Hastings and his wife Veronica homemade treats. ‘People can make up had a very clear vision when they set a picnic from here, or take enough for a about opening Back to the Garden. meal at home,’ he says, adding that his They wanted to ‘go back to farming on a customers are also very interested in human scale,’ running their nearby estate provenance. ‘They like quality - great to produce good quality, healthy food for taste - and it is even better if it is local.’ people to eat rather than crops to be used Back to the Garden is also a lovely spot as raw materials for processed foods or for private ‘dos’, whether it’s a wedding livestock feed. reception or a birthday party. There’s Seems to me that they have succeeded that marvellous garden and the barn on a grand scale!

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A

ALI BARWICK HAS CLEARLY struck gold with her preserve business. The South Norfolk-based producer only went and won yet another clutch of medals at the recent World’s Original Marmalade Festival, which takes place in Cumbria. She won gold for her Seville marmalade; silver for her Lemon & Stem Ginger and Clementine & Lemon marmalades; and bronze for her Blood Orange, Lemon & Lime, and Tricolour Delight marmalades. She has only been running her preserve business properly since 2014 and in that time she’s won a total of 12 medals for her marmalades and a couple of Great Taste Awards for her jams (‘one is Strawberry & Elderflower and the other is Strawberry and Norfolk Lavender the lavender and the elderflower both get infused into the strawberries then I add the actual flowers into the jam at the end’). She goes on to explain: ‘I tend to enter one jam at a time to Great Taste and with the marmalade I’ll send up half a dozen or so.’ So she would be rightly reluctant to be typecast as just a marmalade maker. ‘My jams are just as important as my marmalades.’ Thanks to her preserve-making prowess, last year Ali was a finalist in the Norfolk Hero's Specialist Food and Drink Producer category. So how did Season’s Bounty begin? ‘I was a gardener, but I’ve always made preserves, ever since I was in my early 20s,’ says the 54-year-old, ‘and I’ve always given them away to friends and family.’ She then started selling them at farmers markets in Poringland, Loddon and Beccles and was getting to the point where she was marketing her wares three weekends out of four. ‘The gardening was becoming the hobby and the preserves were becoming my day job - by the end of 2014 I had to make a decision to give up the gardening altogether and concentrate purely on the preserves. ‘Once I started winning the awards for the jams and the marmalades that just encouraged me more.’ She has around 15 marmalades and a similar amount of jams on the go at any one time. Does she have a favourite marmalade? ‘I tend to like my sweeter ones like the clementine and lemon or the blood orange but

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Season’s Bounty -

A R T I S A N

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ALI BARWICK

SEASON’S �OUNT�� BASED IN LODDON� PRODUCES SOME OF THE WORLD’S FINEST MARMALADES AS WELL AS SOME GREAT TASTING JAMS. EMMA OUTTEN CATCHES UP WITH THE AWARD-WINNING ALI BARWIC� one of the aspects of preserves I love is the inventing side – although I’ve come to the conclusion that with my marmalades I’m much more of a traditional marmalade maker.’ As for her jams, her ultimate favourite is damson. ‘Why do I love making preserves? Good question actually,’ says Ali, before replying: ‘I was brought up on a farm in Surlingham and my mum was always a baker, a cook, and a preserve maker - my dad was the gardener. It’s an innate part of me.’ Up until April, everything was made at Ali’s home (imagine ‘five freezers in the garage’ and you get the idea), but now she has a: ‘proper little commercial kitchen, still in Loddon, which is great. My jam HQ is part of Loddon business centre – which is owned by South

Norfolk District Council – they’ve been really good and have let me convert one of their office spaces into a purpose built kitchen.’ She also credits her partner, Michael, for his help in fitting it out. Season’s Bounty keeps Ali extremely busy. She picks most of the fruit used in her jams, herself, from local farms or her own allotment, although some is given by friends and customers who have a surplus of their own harvests. Either way, the majority of the fruit comes from within an eight mile radius of Loddon. She makes her preserves in the traditional way, using an open maslin pan and each batch of preserve is very small (usually no more than a dozen jars).

Then she delivers to various retail outlets in Norfolk and Suffolk (including, most recently, Truly Local in Stalham, and Wroxham Barns) and markets her preserves at various events such as the Suffolk Show and Beccles Food Festival. This summer Ali will be once again making a jam especially for the VW Fab Fest at Strumpshaw, plus she’s working on a new jam called A Taste of Summer, ‘a blend of strawberries, raspberries, blackcurrants and redcurrants.’ As for future plans, the day before we spoke she had met with the team at Woodforde’s Brewery, to discuss a future collaboration. Without revealing too much, she says: ‘I’m really looking forward to the challenge, plus I’m a real ale fan anyway. It’s a bit of a win-win situation for me.’

STRIKING GOLD VISIT

www.seasons-bounty.co.uk

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Serves 5-6 Who has inspired you? Marco Pierre White. Seeing him on TV and reading his autobiography was a big inspiration for me. What is your favourite ingredient? I couldn't just pick one ingredient, but cooking with local fish is always something I enjoy. Got a favourite gadget? The Thermomix is an amazing bit of kit as the functions and features on it are now incredible.

VISIT

www.theheroburnhamover y.co.uk

MY LIFE ON A PLATE As The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe reopens with a fresh new look this month, we meet head chef Max Emmerson and enjoy his signature dish Who are you and where do you work? My name is Max Emmerson and I am the head chef at The Hero in Burnham Overy Staithe. I’ve been busy working on the new menu there, and the feel of the place. We want it to be relaxed, but a bit quirky, and to offer something a little different. How long have you been there? We've just opened so I’ve been involved from the start, working out of our sister pub, The Anchor in Morston, since the beginning of May.

Where were you before? I was at The White Horse in Brancaster and before there I travelled around South East Asia for two months, eating and trying new foods. I have also worked at the Hunny Bell. Where did you train? I went to Norwich City College for three years. I was born in London and lived there until I was 13. But I am half Swedish and lived in Stockholm for some time before coming to study in Norwich - where I’m now buying a property and have relatives. At the moment, I have a room above The Hero!

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What is your signature dish? At this time of year it has to be pulled pork Scotch egg with homemade piccalilli. It isn’t too heavy and is great for picnics,too. What do you like doing when you're not cooking? I like to relax with friends in a good pub, or go round to my parents’ house for a cuppa. I also really want to get out and walk on the marshes - I am determined to make some time. And I can pick samphire, too! Where do you like to eat out in the region? Well, apart from The Anchor in Morston, there's a great Thai restaurant in Norwich called House which I go to as often as I can. What would you be doing if you were not a chef? A carpenter I think, or definitely something with my hands. I did start a course at college but nothing materialised. I sort of fell into cooking - and haven’t looked back since! What's your foodie prediction for the coming months? Fish, fish and more fish! The coastline is inundated with loads of amazing local fish, especially at this time of year and I think more and more people will start to appreciate it.


PULLED PORK SCOTCH EGG WITH PICCALILLI

PULLED PORK SCOTCH EGG with PICCALILLI

For the piccalilli & pickling mix 1 broccoli head; 1 cauliflower head; 100g of finely diced green beans; 100g of finely diced carrots; 1 large, finely diced red onion; 2 finely diced courgettes; 90g of caster sugar; 375ml of white wine vinegar ; ½ tsp of English mustard; 1tsp of whole grain mustard; 1tsp of ground turmeric; 30g of plain flour

MAX EMMERSON

INGREDIENTS For the pulled pork 2kg of pork shoulder; 1 large white onion; 4 medium carrots; 1 bulb of garlic; 1 stick of celery; Small bunch of thyme; 3 bay leaves; 2 pints of apple cider; 1 pint of chicken stock

METHOD 1. Roughly chop up the vegetables and put in a deep roasting tray 2. Place the pork shoulder on top of the vegetables and season with the salt and pepper 3. Pour in the cider, chicken stock and add the thyme and bay leaves 4. Cover with tin foil, and slow roast in a pre heated oven at 150°C, for 2 1/2 hours 5. Once cooked, remove from oven and put pork on a cooling rack, strain off cooking liquid and reduce by 1/4 6. Shred the pork shoulder and place in a bowl, add the reduced cooking liquid and check the seasoning For the piccalilli 1. Take small little florets from the broccoli and cauliflower, and place in a mixing bowl 2. Finely dice the red onion, green beans, carrots and courgettes, and add to the broccoli and cauliflower 3. Season with a good pinch of salt and leave to one side 4. In a pan add 300ml of the white wine vinegar and the sugar 5. Bring to the boil until the sugar has dissolved 6. With the rest of the white wine vinegar add that to a separate mixing bowl and make paste with the other ingredients 7. Once a paste is formed, add to the pan with the dissolved sugar and white wine vinegar and cook out on a low heat until it forms a thick paste 8. If lumpy blend the mix until smooth 9. Pour the mix over the vegetables, mix it up well and allow to cool down 10. Tub up and put in the fridge To make the scotch egg weigh out 100g of pulled pork, and pat out until you've made a flat disc. Place a soft boiled egg in the centre of the meat and gently cover it with the pulled pork until you've formed a slightly larger looking meaty egg. Refrigerate until the meat is set, then panne the scotch egg in plain flour, whisked whole eggs, and dried bread crumbs and carefully place in a fryer at 180°C for 3/4 minutes, or until golden brown, pat excess oil off, and eat straight away with a good amount of your piccalilli

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk OWNERS ROWAN GLENNIE AND HARRY FARROW


This is a truly scrumptious new cook book with an achingly trendy vintage vibe. Sarah Hardy leafs through The Italian Baker by Melissa Forti

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Melissa Forti -

Now here is baking with a spot of glamour! This new book, called The Italian Baker, is by Melissa Forti who shares her traditional and modern recipes, all created in her picturesque bakery in a medieval town in Tuscany - where else! Melissa, who was born in Rome, is self taught and has lived in both LA and London and here offers us 100 recipes to try, all accompanied by sublime photography. The book is split into three parts: Dal’Italia - regional Italian recipes inspired by Melissa’s collection of vintage baking books, like Torta Mimosa from her home city of Rome, and Castagnaccio, a nutty Tuscan cake made with chestnut flour and walnuts; Dal Mondo - recipes inspired by Melissa’s travels around the world with her own Italian twist, like delicately spiced pumpkin cake, and fresh and light raspberry blondies (not made with white chocolate!); and Da Melissa Melissa’s favourites, incorporating delicious Italian ingredients into every recipe, like brownies with black Venere rice, Marsala prune cake, Nectarine and Amaretto cake and hazelnut filled cookies.

THE ITALIAN BAKER is published by Quadrille and costs £20

TURN OVER FOR MELISSA'S RECIPES!

R E C I P E S

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Melissa Forti -

R E C I P E S

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L LEMON AND THYME LOAF

(LOAF AL LIMONE E TIMO)

Serves about 10 INGREDIENTS 210g of plain flour; a pinch of salt; 2 ¼ tsp of baking powder; 3tbsp of finely chopped fresh thyme leaves, plus extra (optional) to serve; 2 eggs, at room temperature; grated zest of 2 large lemons; 240ml of full-fat Greek yogurt; 250g of caster sugar; 1tsp of vanilla paste or extract; 150ml of vegetable oil For the syrup 115g of caster sugar; 115ml of lemon juice METHOD Preheat the oven to 170°C/335°F. Line the base and sides of a 1lb loaf tin with baking parchment. In a bowl, sift together the flour, salt and baking powder and stir in the chopped thyme. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, lemon zest, yogurt, sugar, vanilla and oil until well blended. Gently add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and combine. Pour the mixture into the lined tin and bake for 40–45 minutes until golden on top and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. While the cake is baking, prepare the syrup. Put the sugar and lemon juice in a saucepan over a medium heat until the sugar is fully dissolved. Leave the cake in its tin to cool for 15 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack. Using a wooden toothpick or skewer, prick the surface of the cake and carefully drizzle the syrup over to allow the juice to penetrate inside the cake. Leave to cool completely before sprinkling with thyme, if you like, and cutting into slices to serve

This is a super-fresh and superscented breakfast treat. I have a slice of cake every day, either for breakfast or tea, and I do not intend to stop. I truly believe cakes and desserts are an important part of our lives. Of course, as for everything, they should be consumed in moderation but what would life be like without a piece of cake? So, forget about chemicals, preservatives and other harmful ingredients and go for the real, fresh deal, homemade or bought from a local, trusted bakery. In Italy we get to know the people we buy from. They are happy because they create a bond with the customer and I am happy because I know I will be treated well. Someone once said: think global, eat local. This has become my mantra.


C

Serves 8-10

HOCOLATE WHISKY BUNDT CAKE

(BUNDT CAKE AL WHISKY E CIOCCOLATO)

My partner in life is a Scotch whisky lover and chocolate fanatic, and I cherish those winter nights in front of the fireplace drinking whisky together while he smokes a cigar. It’s the best way to end a long day at work for me. For this recipe I have used a classic after dinner malt whisky matured in fresh sherry casks, but you can choose whatever you like. The alcohol evaporates in the cooking process, but leaves behind its incredible aromas.

INGREDIENTS 230g of butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing; 105g of good-quality cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting; 120ml of Scotch whisky; 400g of caster sugar; 280g of plain flour; 1¼ tsp of bicarbonate of soda; 1tsp of salt; 2 eggs; 1tsp of vanilla paste or extract icing sugar, for dusting

METHOD Preheat the oven to 160°C/320°F. Butter a bundt tin generously, making sure you coat the entire insides of the tin, then dust with cocoa powder. Pour the whisky into a pan set over a medium heat, add the butter and cocoa powder and whisk, using a balloon whisk, until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Transfer to a large bowl so that it cools down more quickly. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt into a separate bowl and set aside. Put the eggs and vanilla into the bowl of stand mixer, or a mixing bowl and use electric hand-held beaters, and beat for about 3 minutes. Add the cooled whisky and chocolate mixture and beat on a low speed until combined. Add the flour mixture and beat until incorporated. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 40–50 minutes until a skewer inserted in the bundt comes out clean. Leave the cake to cool completely in the tin before inverting onto a plate. Lightly dust with icing sugar, and serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

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WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA

CAN’T BEAR TO LEAVE WELLS? THEN WHY NOT STAY... The Globe Globe Inn Inn and and Spicer’s Spicer’s House House on onThe The Buttlands, Buttlands,Wells-next-the-Sea, Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk Norfolk NR23 NR23 1EU 1EU The Tel: 01328 01328 710206 710206 www.theglobeatwells.co.uk www.theglobeatwells.co.uk Tel:


M

Melissa Forti -

R E C I P E S

MELISSA’S TART

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INGREDIENTS For the pastry 300g of plain flour; 150g of butter, chilled and diced, plus a little extra, softened, for greasing; 120g of caster sugar; 2 whole eggs plus 1 yolk; a pinch of salt; grated zest of 1 lemon For the lemon balm custard filling 250ml of double cream; 250ml of milk; 20–30g of fresh lemon balm leaves; grated zest of 1 lemon; 8 egg yolks; 100g of caster sugar

(CROSTATA DI MELISSA)

This is a summery alternative to a lemon tart, perfect for a picnic or for tea in the garden. The lemon balm adds a sophisticated aroma as well as bringing other benefits to the mind and body. In Italian, it is called Melissa, so it was just natural for me to try baking with it. Such a pleasant discovery!

Serves 8-10 METHOD Heap the flour in a mound on the work surface and make a well in the centre. Add the diced butter to the well and rub it into the flour using your fingertips until it reaches a crumble consistency. Make a well in the middle again and add the sugar, eggs plus yolk, salt and lemon zest. Work the dough as briefly as possible until all the ingredients are incorporated and form a dough. Wrap in cling film (plastic wrap) and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or better still overnight. Butter a 20cm/8inch tart tin with a removable base. Roll out the chilled pastry into a circle about 2.5cm/1 inch thick. Place it over the tart tin and press the sides and base gently into the tin. Trim off any excess pastry. Prick the base in a few places with a fork and chill the pastry case in the fridge. Meanwhile, prepare the custard. Put the cream, milk, lemon balm leaves and lemon zest in a saucepan set over medium heat and bring to a boil. Take off the heat, cover with a lid and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 160°C/320°F. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together until pale, in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a mixing bowl and using electric hand-held beaters, then pour in the warm milky mixture and continue to beat on a slow speed until blended. Strain the custard through a fine sieve and discard the leaves. Set aside. Line the pastry case with foil or baking parchment and fill with ceramic or dried beans. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, then take out of the oven and remove the foil or paper and the beans. Bake the pastry case for a further 10 minutes, then pour in the custard and bake for 20 minutes or until set. Leave the tart to cool in the tin before removing to a plate to serve, at room temperature or cold

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books

hot off the press This month’s new releases include Jamie’s latest book and GBBO queen, Nadiya

SUPER FOOD FAMILY CLASSICS by Jamie Oliver £26

Jamie's latest book, Super Food Family Classics, serves up a tasty range of exciting meals to bring healthy eating to the heart of the home, using ingredients you know the family already love in new ways, such as Sweet Potato Fish Cakes or Chocolate Porridge. Well known family favourites are freshened up with extra vegetables sneaked in, no-fuss speedy meals or, when you want to get ahead, freezer-friendly recipes. Set to become another Jamie staple for the cookery shelf, every recipe is tried and tested, has clear and easyto-understand nutritional information on the page, including the number of fruit and veg portions in each dish, plus there's a bumper back-section packed with valuable advice on everything from cooking with kids and tackling fussy eaters, to good gut health, the importance of fibre, budgeting and, of course, getting more of the good stuff into your family's diet.


HEALTHY GUT COOKBOOK

by Gavin Pritchard £12.99 With the emphasis on eating to compliment the body's natural balance, the Healthy Gut Cookbook is a delicious recipe guide to improve digestive health, showing how to eat your way to a happy, healthy gut. It is packed with more than 120 delicious recipes, from sauerkraut to smoothie, and butternut to burritos, proving that healing your digestive system doesn't have to be boring. From an introductory plan to full healthy gut diet, Healthy Gut Cookbook will guide you to digestive health with a tasty mix of recipes, fully compatible with diets such as GAPS, paleo, and gluten-free. With an easy step-by-step approach and plenty of tips to save you time and money, Healthy Gut Cookbook is a delicious meal plan guide to improve symptoms of leaky gut, intolerance, and digestive issues.

NADIYA’S KITCHEN

by Nadiya Hussain £20 From breakfasts and dinners, to her most recent honour, making a 90th birthday cake for the Queen, Nadiya shows readers and Great British Bake Off fans her favourite recipes. With chapters ranging from 'Lazy Sunday Mornings' to 'Midnight Feasts', 'Snacks and Sharing', to 'Dessert for Dinner', there's a dish for any time of the day, for all of the family. Nadiya offers innovative twists on traditional classics and the perfect recipe for those staple meals and bakes, including: Best Fish Finger Butty Churros French Toast Cod and Clementine Curry Popcorn, White Chocolate and Peanut Slice Za'atar and Lemon Palmiers Sour Cherry and Almond Bundt Cake. And, not forgetting, 'Her Majesty's Cake'.

Book signing DON'T FORGET

Tanya Burr is coming to Norwich to sign copies of her book Tanya Bakes on July 3. For more information and to book tickets, visit www.jarrold.co.uk

SAVAGE SALADS

by Kristina Gustafsson £16.99 Perfect for warm summer days, London market stall holders Kristina and Davide serve their popular selection of gourmet salad recipes. They claim the difference between a salad and a 'savage salads' salad is inspirational flavour combinations, being creative with the variation of grains that are available and not being afraid to add red meat, chicken, fish, cheese, nuts and seeds, to make the salad into the main event. Each salad is designed to fill you up. Get stuck into salads with chickpeas, olives, black beans and top off with pickled herring, serrano ham or a skewer of lamb. The book is divided into seasons, and each season lists a delicious selection of recipes using seasonal ingredients so you can enjoy hearty and nourishing salads all year round. The final section of recipes includes an enticing selection of dips and dressings to compliment the salads.

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STEVEN WINTER

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Bread S

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Norwich artisan baker Steve Winter tells you how to grow your own bread! BREAD SOURCE, Red Lion Street, Aylsham, visit www.bread-source.com SOURDOUGH BREADS, as we know, are highly fashionable at the moment, and are also packed with goodness with none of that unhealthy stuff, either! It is simply a culture of bacteria and yeasts that naturally occur in flour and dough. The lactic acid bacteria require very long fermentation times to do their magic with the flour. The yeasts in the sourdough are diverse and nowhere near as concentrated as the fresh baker’s yeast, so they raise the dough very, very slowly. Sourdough baking has been shrouded in secrecy over the years and portrayed as a dark art only for the professional baker but in reality is an extremely simple process. You take some sourdough starter, which is made by mixing equal amounts of flour and water, and leave this mixture for a day and repeat this process each day until you have a bubbly sweet smelling healthy starter with a thriving yeast population. You use some of this bubbling ferment to make your bread by adding

more flour, water and salt as per your recipe, but you always remember to keep some starter back ready to feed again for your next bake. People take care of their starters as if they were one of the family, with some living for 100s of years. People put them on a diet of the finest of flours and natural spring water from a tropical well. There was even a sourdough hotel set up in Stockholm for people to take their starters when they went away on holiday. Yes, really! But once you have a strong and healthy starter, they are very robust beasts which take a lot of neglect and happily live off a diet of the bag of flour that's been at the back of your cupboard since time forgot and water from the tap. Once you are up and running, you can start to develop your own range of sourdoughs - say rye, wholemeal, as bagels and even flavoured ones, by adding something like olives for added bite. But you can, of course, just enjoy your classic

loaf lightly toasted with butter, or topped with ham and melted cheese. You’ll always get that delicious ‘tartness’ - and supermarket loaves will become a thing of the past. If you would like to learn to bake with sourdough, we are running workshops at our new bakery at 93 Upper St Giles Street in Norwich. It is housed in a beautiful former pub and sells bread, pastry and all things baking. There is space for parties of 10 to come and learn the ancient art of baking, and we have our first teacher signed up: fellow baker and friend Emmanuel Hadjiandreou who, having trained as a baker in South Africa, has baked around the world. In Britain, Emmanuel has worked for Flour Power, Gordon Ramsay, Daylesford Organic and Judges Bakery and is also the author of three baking books. • We are still working on our website but you will be able to find details of all courses on Twitter @bread_source


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IKE ANY MARKET, the world of wine is subject to the vicissitudes of fashion, with certain wines enjoying their moment in the sun – whether it’s Sancerre in the 1980s, Australian Chardonnay in the 1990s, Zinfandel blush in the noughties, or Pinot Grigio in the current decade. One common theme running across these fads is that invariably they become a victim of their own success. In each of the above cases (except Zinfandel blush, which is an abomination), the wines in question can be excellent; but in every case, trend-driven demand led to a dilution of quality as suppliers struggled to ramp up production to satisfy the voracious appetite for the wine of the moment.

Feast wine writer Andy Newman urges us to take another look at your grandmother’s favourite tipple - sherry!

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3

SHERRIES TO SAVOUR THIS MONTH

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WILLIAMS & HUMBERT 12 YEAR-OLD OLOROSO

(Waitrose, £8.69 for a half bottle) An astonishing price for a 12 yearold, complex wine. Surprisingly dry, but with notes of caramel, Seville orange, bread and sultanas

PEDRO XIMENEZ, BARBADILLO

(Adnams, £10.99) The sweetest of all sherries, unctuous, plummy, figgy and delicious. Try it with chocolate puddings, cheese, as a digestif, or even poured over vanilla ice cream

Another by-product of this mismatch in supply and demand is an inevitable hike in prices. You will still pay a premium for even very ordinary Sancerre, even though there are better, and better value, wines to be had from neighbouring but less fashionable appellations such as Quincy and MenetouSalon. There is an obvious solution to this for the wine drinker in search of quality and value: instead of following the herd, it’s time to embrace anti-fashion. The bargains are to be found amongst those wines which have fallen out of the limelight, where producers have to work harder to entice consumers, and where prices reflect lower demand. For me, there is one wine above all others which falls into this category, and which offers the best value of all: sherry. A very long time ago, sherry was one of those fashionable wines. In 1587, Sir Francis Drake sacked Cadiz, and brought nearly 3000 barrels of the stuff back to England as war booty, and it wasn’t long before the London in-crowd wanted to be seen with a glass in their hand. For too many of us though, our first and only experience of this wonderful drink has been sickly-sweet cream sherry served from granny’s decanter, into which it was probably poured last Christmas. That’s a shame, because the term encompasses a range of wines which at their best deliver freshness, depth of flavour and astonishing value.

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

FINO

Pale, dry and complex, with a mixture of yeast, Mediterranean herbs and almonds. Serve cold, and don’t keep for more than two days once opened

LA GITANA MANZANILLA, BODEGAS HIDALGO

(widely available at around £10; Majestic has it at £7.99 as part of a mixed case of six bottles) Fresh, with an almost salty tang, backed up by a nutty palate; the perfect aperitif

THE DIFF EREN T SHER RY TYPE S

The word ‘sherry’ is in fact an Anglicisation of ‘Jerez’, the town in southwest Spain (actually Jerez de la Frontera) which is the centre of production. Essentially a fortified white wine, the sherry is actually a range of products ranging from bone dry to unctuously sweet, and its unique method of production is what gives the drink its unique character. Sherry is made in two principal types: fino and oloroso. Fino, which develops in the barrel under a film of yeast called flor, tends to be paler and drier, and includes Manzanilla, Fino, Pasada and Amontillado styles (this last is naturally dry – the sugary amontillados so beloved of maiden aunts have been artificially sweetened). Olorosos do not develop the blanket of flor, and so the wine tends to oxidise slightly, giving a darker colour, and a more nutty taste. Confusingly, there are two other styles of sherry: Palo Cortado, which is somewhere between an Amontillado and an Oloroso; and Pedro Ximenez, an unctuously sweet (but still balanced) wine made from the grape of the same name. The other aspect of sherry making which makes it unique is the solera system, which uses fractional blending – that is, older and younger wines are mixed to ensure consistency of style, and to add character. A sherry sold with a solera date on the bottle (e.g. Gonzalez Byass’ Solera 1847) does not mean that all the wine dates from that year; that is when the solera was founded, and your wine will contain a miniscule trace of wine from the original barrel. Because sherry is a fortified wine, many people think it will keep for weeks or even months after opening, and this is perhaps where it has gained its reputation for staleness and oxidisation. The fact is that most sherries will deteriorate as fast as table wines, and the advice is to enjoy them as fresh as possible. Many are sold in half bottles, which is a sensible way of buying them if you think you are not going to get through a whole bottle before it loses its freshness. Whichever style you try, I urge you to buck the trend and delve into the world of sherry. There are some really wonderful wines here, with styles to suit all palates. And best of all, because the fashionable money is chasing the on-trend wines, you can enjoy excellent sherry without breaking the bank.

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MANZA NILLA

Like Fino, but produced in the coastal town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. Generally the lightest of all sherry types, very dry, and even a hint of salty notes. Serve cold, and drink within a couple of days of opening. If aged slightly longer, can be sold as Manzanilla Pasada, which can be very complex

EN RAMA

An increasingly popular style of Fino bottled straight from the barrel with little or no filtration. A deeper flavour, but unstable, so doesn’t last long

AMONT ILLADO

Naturally dry – avoid the sweetened varieties, it is darker and richer than Fino, and usually a little more alcoholic. Serve at about 12°C, drink up once it’s opened, goes well with chorizo or white meats

PALO CORTAD O

Increasingly fashionable, the rarest of sherries, with the fragrance of an Amontillado but the structure and body of an Oloroso. Serve at 14°C

OLOROS O

Darker still, deliciously nutty and intense; naturally dry, but may be lightly sweetened for balance (but should never be more than medium-dry). Serve at 16°C. Will keep a little longer than Fino, but still best drunk fresh

CREAM

Commercial cream sherries are often blends of ordinary wines with sweetening and even colouring. Most (although not all) are to be avoided

PEDRO XIMENE Z

Often shortened to PX, made from sun-dried grapes which gives an intensely sweet, dark sherry. Described by wine writer Hugh Johnson as ‘unctuous and decadent’


CORNWAL

M A E CR OF

RACHAEL S H HER WEDD AKESPEARE SPENDS IN A FOODIE G ANNIVERSAR� ON T WITH FISH RIP TO CORNWALL , FIRML� ON T H E ME N U

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T R A V E L

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LOW TIDE AT PORT ISAAC

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Cornwall

FISHING BOAT IN PORT ISAAC

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ET BEYOND the politics of how to eat a cream tea and, for me, a trip to Cornwall was like letting a kid loose in a gourmet sweet shop. The county has a monumental gastronomic reputation and, in my opinion, rivals only Norfolk in its abundance of fresh local produce from the land and sea. But with celebrity chefs and Michelinstarred establishments fueling the reputation, I couldn’t help but wonder whether Cornwall’s notoriety had gone beyond the rustic pleasures of beautiful ingredients and coastal charm.

How could we best find out? A trip to the flagship restaurant of Cornwall’s most famous culinary export, Rick Stein! Get over the Rick Stein monopoly in Padstow (think branded merchandise akin to Disneyland!) and there’s no doubt that Mr Stein’s Seafood Restaurant is a class act. The staff have a classic Cornish confidence: hugely knowledgeable, eloquent and passionate but with a friendly, relaxed swagger. It sets the tone as you’re in for a serious experience but stripped of pretension, pomp and circumstance. The blood orange daiquiri is divine and best savoured as you soak up the


SCABETTI ©

DAVID GRIFFEN ©

RICK STEIN BY ANNA MCCARTHY

views of Padstow Harbour. With an abundance of sensationally fresh, local seafood, the choice is bamboozling. But it’s seared scallop succotash with crab meat, mussels, Serrano ham and chives which takes my fancy for starters. All are cooked to perfection. These are moist, juicy scallops with the freshest salty taste of the sea. Unsurprisingly, the seafood is elevated to star of the show. On to the monkfish curry, which was generously accompanied by a raft of side dishes far superior to the usual lifeless naan bread and claggy mango chutney. It’s neatly seasoned, not at all spicy but the intention is clear: savour the flavour of the succulent, locally sourced fish. The wine list is unpretentious nd there’s a realistic but manageable selection to choose from. An approachable and light-hearted wine sommelier made the decision-making all the more enjoyable and I happily washed down my lunch with a couple of glasses of Chateau Bauduc Blanc. Perfect, especially when followed by a stroll around Padstow Harbour. For those with a sweet tooth, we uncovered some fantastic and reasonably priced eateries for an authentic slice of dessert Cornwall-style. The best? The Moomaid of Zennor ice-cream parlour in St Ives. It’s not only a sun-trap overlooking the bay (a great spot to rest weary legs), but fresh milk is taken daily from their own Friesian dairy herd and combined with Cornish clotted cream to produce more than 30 different flavours of ice-cream and sorbet. The salted caramel had me going back for seconds. After the experience we’d had with Rick Stein we were skeptical that anyone could better do justice to the local ingredients. But there’s another chef in Cornwall who is rapidly becoming acknowledged as the one to watch. Nathan Outlaw is, no surprise, Rick Stein’s protégé and had recently relocated his flagship establishment Restaurant Nathan Outlaw to the clifftop in idyllic Port Isaac, 15 miles along the coast from Padstow. My husband, an avid meat eater, was a little perturbed to discover that the only meat on the menu came from creatures with gills and fins. ‘I’m not sure I’m going to enjoy a tasting menu of just fish,’ he announced, almost horrified. How wrong he was. Six courses later and I was in awe. Never had fish been so respectfully prepared and experimentally presented. A mind-blowing smoked mackerel with red pepper and soused carrots was light, full of flavour and refreshing, and a million miles from the stodgy and unappetising fish pâtés which can sit heavy (and repeat so unattractively) on the stomach.

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Reader Recipe

ELDERFLOWER CORDIAL Zoe Dunford, a Norfolk-based science PR consultant, offers us summer in a bottle! INGREDIENTS 20 heads of elderflower; 1.8kg of sugar; 1.2l of water; 2 lemons To serve Sparkling water; mint; cucumber; strawberries; loads of ice METHOD I wash the elderflowers when I get home and shake any insects out. Empty the sugar into a large pan with the water. Boil and stir until the sugar dissolves, leaving a clear syrup. Cut off the lemon peel in wide strips and add to a large bowl with the elderflowers. Pour over the syrup, cover with a cloth and leave for 24 hours. Strain out the flowers with a sieve. You'll need a second bowl to catch the syrup. Then strain two or three further times through a muslin,

until you're happy the syrup is free of bits. I bottle it in 500ml plastic bottles so I can freeze them and avoid using added citric acid or tartaric acid. The acid is a preservative but we drink most of it by the autumn anyway, just making sure to hold one bottle back for Christmas How to serve I like to serve it with fizzy water and adorn it like Pimms with chopped cucumber, fresh mint, strawberries and loads of ice. As soon as we pour the last drop out of one bottle we take the next one out of the freezer to thaw in the fridge. Once you have made the cordial you can also use it for other recipes such as elderflower and gooseberry fool, ice cream and even elderflower drizzle cake!

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Cornwall -

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From here, crab, leeks, apple and sea purslane was carefully assembled like a 3D jigsaw puzzle. The fruit and vegetable elements were delicate and zingy; refreshing against the salty meaty texture of the crab. Rustic simplicity dominates Outlaw’s style and this was epitomised by the main course: Bass with Hispi Cabbage and Porthilly sauce. The earthy yet rich, indulgent flavours of the sauce delicately picked out the succulent meaty notes of the bass. I’ve never eaten a fish cooked so beautifully in all my life.

The cheese course was an imaginatively presented stack of Ragstone Goats’ Cheese puffs interlaced with beetroot and pine nuts. Again, light, refreshing and packed with texture. We washed the meal down with a glass of a limited edition South African white wine, robustly titled the White Bomb. ‘This wine is just extraordinary,’ beamed the sommelier. ‘There’s so much going on. It’s absolutely sensational.’ Just like the restaurant, I thought. Nathan Outlaw is a sincere and humble man. ‘You’ve converted my husband to fish,’ I gleefully tell him. ‘He wasn’t convinced he could survive an

CORNWALL'S COAST & COUNTRYSIDE

entire tasting menu of fish but you’ve subverted all expectations!’ He smiled. It definitely wasn’t the first time he’d heard that. ‘That’s great,’ he replied. ‘Happy wedding anniversary, by the way,’ he added. What a gentleman. Thoughtful, down-to-earth and focused on his guests’ enjoyment, just like his restaurant. And, come to think of it, like the entire county which so captivatingly delivers a heady mix of world class ingredients with refreshing realism; a refreshing and cutting edge attitude which epitomises the class act that Cornwall continues to be.


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Lavenham -

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ebmaemp u A stay at The Swan Hotel and Spa in Lavenham is nothing short of sublime, says Emma Outten, who enjoyed swanning around the new vitality pool


Lavenham

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know you’re in for an extra special weekend when the national newspaper headlines shout about the fact that the temperatures are going to surpass Ibiza. So we had justifiably high hopes for our Saturday overnighter at The Swan Hotel and Spa in Lavenham. It is only an hour’s drive from Norwich, so we were soon able to immerse ourselves in some mid Suffolk medieval magic. There are almost no words to describe the picture postcard prettiness of Lavenham, one of the UK’s best-kept medieval villages. As one of the historic ‘wool towns’, it even has its own official colour: Lavenham Blue. The Swan Hotel, in all its AA 4 Red Star luxury, is pride of place on the High Street, and the 15th century architecture alone almost stops you in your tracks as you drive around the corner to park. The building was initially made up of three houses, the oldest of which dates back to 1425, and by 1830 it had 12 bedrooms and stabling for more than 50 horses. During the Second World War the Airmen’s Bar was the main meeting place for off duty American serviceman from the 487 squadron and their signatures are still on the wall today. Nowadays, there are 45 unique bedrooms, each named after a local Suffolk village, and ours had timbered beams, leaded windows, and medieval wall hangings – and I must mention the swan sculpture on top of the wardrobe! Having got acquainted with the facilities in our room, we hot-footed it to the most recent addition to the hotel: the award-winning Weavers’ House Spa, which is in partnership with Temple Spa (expect Temple Spa products in your ensuite bathroom). Breezing past guests enjoying the afternoon tea experience, we were intent on making the most of the spa facilities: the sauna, steam room, outdoor vitality pool and relaxation suite (if you are planning a stay in the next few weeks, do bear in mind that the treatments are particularly popular at the weekends). It’s all too easy to spend a couple of hours in this spa, which only opened last year, and not feel the desire to leave the confines of The Swan at all! However, considering there are more than 300 listed buildings in Lavenham alone, there’s plenty to admire. Things to do in the area include visiting Lavenham Guildhall, Gainsborough’s House, Kentwell Hall, Melford Hall, Hedingham Castle, Abbey Gardens in nearby Bury St Edmunds and Newmarket Racecourse.

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COME & STAY To book a stay at the Swan at Lavenham Hotel & Spa and treatments in Weavers’ House Spa call 01787 247477 or visit www. theswanatlavenham.co.uk; rooms start from £185 per night for two sharing, including a full Suffolk breakfast; dinner from the à la carte menu is from £39 per person for three courses. Overnight guests have a complimentary two-hour session with use of the spa facilities including the sauna, steam room, outdoor vitality pool and relaxation lounge. Stop press: Weavers’ House Spa has introduced its own ‘spa take’ on the traditional afternoon tea to satisfy their most health food conscious guests who enjoy a sweet sensation.


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S

Lavenham After relaxing on the beautiful garden terrace, it was time for canapés in the lounge whilst perusing the al a carte menu. Although there is the contemporary looking, informal Brasserie, we were here for fine dining in the Gallery Restaurant. The restaurant was built by Trusthouse Forte back in 1965 using a staggering 400 tons of English oak. As we were shown to our table we noticed a pianist up in the minstrels’ gallery, about to set a grand tone for the evening. Wine-wise, sommelier Francois Belin has worked hard to develop a diverse and interesting wine list. The wines are listed according to their region to ease decisionmaking and there are more than 350 wines in order of price (we had the French Marius White Vin de Pays d’Oc, TerretVermentino). Head chef Justin Kett (who has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens) has been turning Suffolk ingredients into the best of British food since 2011. You’ll find

www.feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

S T A Y C A T I O N

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fresh fruit and veg from Suffolk farms, to meat and game direct from the butchers across the road. The menu may not scream Suffolk (although we spotted Suffolk cod on there) but, rest assured, provenance is paramount. There is a new five-course dinner menu, divided into ‘to begin’, ‘in between’, ‘to follow’, ‘the main’, and ‘after’, although we opted for three courses. I chose risotto, with peas and asparagus, whereas my partner had crab, with roast garlic mayonnaise, crispy lettuce, and flavours of tomato. To follow, I chose plaice with samphire, pine nuts, smoked salmon, and clams, whilst he had the duck, with garlic fondant, rhubarb and spring vegetables. Afters meant banana parfait with milk chocolate mousse, peanut brittle and raspberry pastilles for me, and English cheeses for him, comprising Cornish Yarg, Montgomery’s Cheddar, Stichelton Blue, Goats' cheese, Ardrahan oatcakes, fruit loaf and gooseberry preserve – all amply

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demonstrating that you get the best of British in this 2 AA Rosette restaurant. By breakfast we were back in the Gallery and I was enjoying The Swan’s own blend muesli, before tucking in to kippers from Lowestoft with homemade malted grain bread. My partner went for The Full Suffolk, comprising Suffolk free range pork sausage, cured Suffolk bacon, black pudding, grilled field mushroom and tomato, with free range Manor Farm egg. Then we simply had to make more use of the spa facilities before checking out of our lovely room. Lounging around the pool on that particular weekend we could’ve been on The White Isle itself, but instead we were surrounded by whitewashed walls and oak beams. Not only is there is something special about Suffolk in the summertime, there is something lovely about Lavenham, and something really rather romantic about a stay in The Swan.


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Our own kitchen gardener Ellen Mary tells us how to grow strawberries and offers us her favourite recipe

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LET’S FACE IT, who doesn't love strawberries? They are the quintessential British summer treat. Plus, there are so many varieties and ways to grow them that everyone can give it a try. The strawberries we indulge in now are the result of selective breeding, originally from wild strawberries, resulting in that wonderful homegrown flavour, which is simply second to none. As an excellent source of vitamin C and a good source of dietary fibre and folate you can be sure they are full of goodness as well as deliciously sweet. For a bountiful mid season crop try growing ‘Alice’ AGM which is well known for its easy and tasty pickings.

STRAWBERRY ‘ALICE’ AGM

WILD STRAWBERRIES have been referenced since the Romans, who ate them to alleviate symptoms associated with fever, throat infections and kidney stones. The first garden strawberry was grown in Brittany during the late 18th century and legend has it that breaking a double strawberry into half and sharing it with someone, means you will fall in love with each other and, as a symbol for Venus, you never know - perhaps it’s true. Try ‘Alice’ AGM which is a mid season variety and arguably one of the best strawberries to grow with high disease resistance to ensure you get the best from your crops.

GROW

Strawberries can be grown in a fruit bed, containers and hanging baskets so there is no need to miss out, even if you only have a small space. The best time to plant out is late autumn or late spring in a sunny position but with some shelter. The soil needs to be prepared with a good mulch of manure and be well drained. Make sure the crown is just above the surface to save them from rotting.

CARE

Water the plants well and keep weeds at bay. They will need a good mulch in spring, with well rotted manure, to provide plenty of nutrients for the growing season ahead. You will notice the pretty white flowers which is alway a sign the fruit is on its way, at which point you should ideally put a net over them to prevent the fruits from being damaged by birds. It can be helpful to cover the ground around the plants with straw to help keep slugs and snails away as well.

For more information and advice, visit www.ellenmarygardening.co.uk

HARVEST

Plants will continue to fruit for a good few years but it is advisable to replant every three years to ensure you are always supplied with fresh strawberries as crops do become reduced over time and tend to be more susceptible to pests and disease. During summer months, pick the strawberries as the fruits ripen and enjoy every single bite.

Recipe Overleaf

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White House Farm C O L U M N

RICH PICKINGS

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Charlotte Gurney just loves the bountiful month of July with long days spent harvesting (and eating) the fruit

PYO IN THE 80s

IF I HAD TO PICK A MONTH, I'd say it was July; the month for soft fruit when all the hard earned farmer’s work over the winter months comes into fruition. Before the pickers arrive, in cool mornings, I'll walk the rows of raspberries, currants and table top strawberries, contemplating the day ahead, my ear tuned into my favourite White House Farm bird, the yellow hammer. As one wise, silver-haired customer, who has been picking and jam making with us for years, pointed out, if you listen carefully, he enthusiastically sings to the tune of, a ‘'Little bit of bread and no cheese!' It makes me smile every time. I consider myself incredibly lucky to be joining the family business in Sprowston on the edge of the ever expanding city, but it does come with its challenges. Revolutionising an established business and moving with the trends is no easy feat. Since the 70s, when the business was at its prime, a whole heap of socioeconomic changes have occurred, impacting us in different ways. For example, we’re no longer governed by our chest freezer: we have supermarkets with every fruit you can think of at our disposal, year round. PYO is no longer a necessity but a family day out. Plus the price of labour is vastly greater than it was 30 years ago. So, in order to survive, we’ve had to change accordingly. We’ve added our café, farmshop and most recently a thriving butchery, but we’ve needed to think creatively where fruit picking is concerned. We note the tremendous footfall each summer yet find ourselves disheartened by the small amount of fruit picked by customers. So this year, we’ve taken others’ lead and introduced an entry free, a minimum spend (to be deducted from fruit picked) to balance the hungry mouths that pass through. Like all things on the farm, it’s an experiment and I hope it will deter the time wasters but reassure the core, trusted pickers that we are trying to ensure the PYO experience does not become a thing of the past. After all, you can’t beat it: sunny days, juicy, fresh berries that taste like no other, a spot of jam making - and my friend the ‘cheese bird’ singing in your ear!

WHITE HOUSE FARM, BLUE BOAR LANE, NORWICH, TEL 01603 484627 OR VISIT WWW.NORWICH-PYO.CO.UK

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summer fruit -

R E C I P E

B Y

E L L E N

M A R Y

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wi th a tw ist of lim on ce ll o It’s a favourite summertime dessert but adding a little lemon to the recipe gives it a lovely fresh twist. Eton Mess is so easy to make and always a winner at a summer barbecue and, as I am a big fan of creating nice dishes as quickly as possible, there is no need to even make your own meringue (unless you want to, of course)!

Serves Four

with no cooking time and best served fresh

NOT AN ACCURATE IMAGE OF FINISHED DISH - FOR ILLUSTRATION PURPOSES ONLY

INGREDIENTS 500g of freshly picked strawberries; 400ml of double cream; a pack of ready made meringue nests; 2tbsp of Limoncello (or freshly squeezed lemon juice for a non alcoholic version); grated lemon zest; a few sprigs of freshly picked mint METHOD 1. Leave four strawberries to the side then chop all of the remaining strawberries and place in a bowl 2. Drizzle the Limoncello or lemon juice over the chopped strawberries and mix well 3. Break up the meringue into chunks and set aside 4. Whip the double cream until you have some stiff peaks 5. Fold in the chopped strawberries and Limoncello mix to the whipped cream but don't mix too much 6. Gently mix in the broken meringue pieces 7. Spoon equal amounts into your chosen serving bowl - cold wine glasses are perfect 8. Place a whole strawberry on the top of each mixture in the glass and add a pinch of grated lemon zest 9. Pop a sprig of mint on top as a garnish 10. Enjoy!

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Competition

E TO

CHANC

WIN!

OINK, OINK!

This month, we’ve teamed up with one of Norfolk’s best restaurants to offer one reader the chance to win a meal for four with wine! THE PIGS AT EDGEFIELD, near Holt, Norfolk has a well earned reputation for delivering honest, high quality dishes without pomp. A dedicated team of chefs and staff work hard to ensure that The Pigs’ foodie roots remain firmly grounded. The result is local, fresh, innovative food that is always, always delicious. Known for its proudly British and local style wherever possible, the kitchen source its ingredients from Norfolk. Typically the menu plays on traditional dishes, bringing forgotten cuts of meat into the modern day. You’ll also find innovative seasonal twists that are just too tempting to miss.

A LITTLE TASTER OF THEIR CURRENT MENU INCLUDES:

Pigs Classics Honey glazed smoked ham hock, whole grain mustard mash and sage roasted roots Plate pies which change weekly and come with mash and gravy Seasonal dishes Glazed Angus short rib, sweet potato, red onion, braising gravy Pan fried sea bass, butter braised potato, cucumber, celery, cider and crab sauce

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bottle of house red or white. Any additional drinks must be paid for separately. The prize excludes Saturday evenings, and is to be taken prior to October 31 2016. It is open to over 18s and no cash alternative is available. Normal Feast Norfolk competition rules apply and the editor’s decision is final. The closing date is July 31 2016.

And who could resist puddings like these?

· Iced elderflower and vanilla whip,

orange biscuit Pigs Mess Pavlova, local strawberries, whipped cream and meringue to share

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Although The Pigs take its food very seriously, it remains down to earth when it comes to the service and atmosphere in its establishment. There is certainly a special feeling that you get from being there. As well as an excellent foodie offering, The Pigs is also renowned for its rooms. They come on a B&B or dinner, B&B basis. You can choose from their original rooms, their spa rooms, and very soon they will be starting work on their new spa suites!

WIN

Feast Norfolk has teamed up with the Pigs in Edgefield, near Holt, to offer one lucky reader the chance to win a meal for four people, with wine.

HOW TO ENTER

To enter, simply answer the following question and send your answer to competitions@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

From what century does The Pigs pub originate? tip - the answer can be found on the ir we bsite

Terms & Conditions of our giveaway with The Pigs: The meal for four can be up to the value of £80 on food in total. The prize includes a

VISIT

www.thepigs.org.uk | 01263 587634

Please remember to include your name, address and daytime telephone number. You can also enter by visiting our Facebook page and simply liking and sharing the competition.


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VISIT

C O L U M N

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JUSTIN WRIGHT

Lovewell Blake

www.lovewell-blake.co.uk

PAYING the PRICE for the LIVING WAGE

Justin Wright, who heads up Lovewell Blake’s specialist food and drink team, says that the new National Living Wage could have a big impact on food and drink businesses RIGHT ACROSS the food and drink sector, from small-scale artisan producers right through to the hospitality industry, profit margins are incredibly tight, and the smallest increase in costs can be the difference between success and failure. Spare a thought, then, for employers who are being hit by the double whammy of the introduction of the National Living Wage, and mandatory auto-enrolment into pensions. Of course, we would all support the concept of paying people a fair wage, and helping them make provision for their old age – but how many consumers are prepared to swallow the extra costs involved, either in their weekly shopping trips or when it comes to paying the bill at pubs and restaurants? This is the reality that many food and drink businesses are facing. In April, the minimum wage of £6.70 an hour was replaced (for workers aged 25 years and over), with the new National Living Wage, set at £7.20 an hour. That was a seven per cent rise, at a time when inflation is bumping along at just over one per cent. What’s more, the Living Wage will continue to rise at a rate far beyond inflation, reaching £9 an hour by 2020 – a

third higher than it was at the start of this year. On top of that, all employers are being required to set up, and contribute to, pensions schemes for their staff. George Osborne’s ‘moral’ argument that the taxpayer should not be subsidising low-paying employers is a compelling one, but there is no doubt that the move will transfer a considerable burden onto food and drink producers and the hospitality industry, both of which rely for their competitiveness – and hence survival – on the availability of low-cost labour. For small-scale producers particularly, the opportunity to increase income by raising prices is very limited, with a market dominated by powerful retailers who are unwilling to absorb the extra costs or pass them on to their own customers, who are, in turn, extremely price sensitive. So what can food and drink businesses do to mitigate these extra costs? Well, the first bit of good news is that as the Chancellor has added costs with one hand, he has made some (small) concessions with the other. Savings in corporation tax and increases in the National Employment Allowance will

disclaimer

both help (although strangely, these measures are not being introduced simultaneously with the NLW). Another counterbalancing measure is the introduction of a permanent Annual Investment Allowance of £200,000, so some businesses will be able to shift the balance from humans to machinery – providing they have the cash available to invest, of course. Ultimately, businesses in the food and drink sector will have to look at their cost base, reviewing how effectively they use their human resources, boosting productivity, and taking a long, hard look at their position in the marketplace, and how their individual products are performing. As consumers, most of us are torn between an instinctive feeling that the people who produce and serve our food should be paid properly, and an unwillingness to pay any more for what we eat and drink. Whilst food and drink businesses are having to rethink how they operate to cope with these extra costs, perhaps the onus is also on consumers to accept that we too may have to pay the price of workers receiving a living wage.

Please note that this article is provided for your information only. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, information contained herein may not be comprehensive and you should not act upon it without seeking professional advice

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JASON BORTHWICK

T H E

L A S T

B I T E

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RETAIL

THERAPY

JASON BORTHWICK TELLS US HOW INDEPENDENT SHOPS CAN AND SHOULD THRIVE VISIT

www.dalegatemarket.co.uk

TIMES THEY ARE A CHANGING, and retail, like so many other industries, isn’t exempt. However, it’s a particularly uncertain time for independent shops. They are under pressure from customers constantly looking for deals and big retailers ever expanding their ranges. There are no easy solutions to the problems independents face, but whatever the future holds, one thing is absolutely clear, the world would be a dull place without independent shops. I’ve never been keen on the regimented UK high streets, much preferring exploring lanes and small collections of shops, my inspiration for Dalegate Market when my father and I built the site. It’s the independents that make shopping interesting. You’ll find quirky spaces, equally quirky shop keepers and then there are the wonderful products they sell. Ten years ago, when we opened, just having a lovely selection of shops and a café with great cake and coffee was all you needed to draw in customers. Since then we’ve had boom, bust and internet shopping has become the norm, so now you have to stand out from the crowd to get noticed and keep the customers coming. It certainly helps that we have lovely shops, and Deepdale Café supplies great breakfasts, lunches and afternoon teas. Nearly all our shops are independents, selling clothing, accessories, jewellery, wildlife watching equipment, art, books, crafts, food, drink and your day to day provisions. The range is there for most interests, needs and budgets. Those who know Dalegate Market return again and again, loving what

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we do. But we do constantly need to help new people find our lovely spot on the North Norfolk Coast. Our location is a huge bonus; after all who wouldn’t enjoy great shopping with a walk on a beautiful beach, and it’s very easy to escape the hustle and bustle of the rat race. We just need to manage the seasonal peaks and troughs of visitor numbers, which all rural locations suffer from. That’s the reason we created the Deepdale Christmas Market, a perfect reason to visit the beautiful North Norfolk Coast in the depths of winter. It’s incredible to see how we’ve grown the first weekend in December from a few gazebos and a hundred customers seven years ago, to over one hundred stalls in three large marquees and almost 15,000 visitors in 2015. This event gives us an opportunity to support some truly wonderful producers and artisans. But it also lets us showcase our great permanent shops, and I never tire of hearing visitors saying ‘I never knew this was here’. We added pop up shops in 2014, where we’ve hosted more than 80 different businesses. This year we started our Spring Market, and we’re hosting a programme of open air events, including theatre, cinema and Shakespeare. Everything we do is to give reasons for people to visit again and again, and to support our permanent shops and café, the core of Dalegate Market. The simple lessons we’ve learnt over the last 10 years are to do what we do well, be original, and when we do it so well that others copy us, to do something else better than them.


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