Feast Norfolk Magazine Sampler Nov 15 by Feast Norfolk Magazine

FOOD & DRINK

FOOD TRENDS FOR

2016

LODDON SWAN

CHEF ANSWERS THE QUESTIONS

THE JUiCIEST

GADGETS

A double helping of

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

The BIG interview

ANGLIA FARMERS' BOSS

Artisan producer

SARAH SAVAGE

1-11 LONDON ST, NORWICH NR2 1JF WWW.JARROLD.CO.UK

01. 02. 03.

01. SPRINGVALE WINTER GARDEN TIN OF ASSORTED BISCUITS, 400G, £8 02. SPRINGVALE BAUBLE OF MINI CHOC CHIP COOKIES, 200G, £6.50 03. NORFOLK GIN, 75CL, 37.5% VOL, £40 04. RICHSIPS ESPRESSO SHOT COFFEE VODKA INFUSION, 32CL, 20% VOL, £16

04.

{welcome}

EDITOR'S LETTER WELCOME to this little taster magazine - hopefully giving a flavour of what is to come! The team is excited about finally getting to print as we’ve been planning and thinking about it for what seems an age. At the magazine’s heart is a desire to shout about just how great the food and drink is in Norfolk. We really are blessed by the sheer volume and quality of food produced here, from the fabulous fruits of the sea to the meats (how about all that glorious game now available?), ultra fresh veggies and yummy fruits. We want to write about everyone, from the big farming families to the artisan producers to the supermarkets, from fine dining restaurants to quirky tea rooms; from wine recommendations to the latest kitchen gadgets. We’re shining the spotlight on both well known and up and coming chefs, suggesting some great shops where you can buy all your foodie treats and carrying a great selection of original recipes to try at home. We also promise to be fair and independent, to campaign where we feel we should, to highlight new businesses and to promote local foodie events and activities.

And, just in case you think we’re sounding a bit too earnest, we promise to have masses of fun, too. After all, what beats tucking into a great meal and a glass or two of wine? It does it for me every time! Our January launch issue will be out mid December and will be freely available in pubs, hotels, shops and supermarkets. This first, free issue will show you exactly what we will be doing in future issues. Then our February issue will be priced at £3.50 as we really want people to buy into what we are doing. And it will be on sale at many of your favourite foodie destinations - delis, butcher’s, tourist attractions, department stores and so on. Keep an eye on our website for full stockists but hopefully you’ll never be far from one! Or why not think about subscribing? Do let us have your favourite recipes to share with other readers and let us know your thoughts about the magazine through our letters’ page. We would love to hear from you. And be sure to follow us on Twitter and Facebook. I hope you enjoy this little bite-sized piece of Feast Norfolk! Happy eating and drinking!

Sarah Hardy

FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK COMING SOON!

SEARCH FOR FEAST NORFOLK ON

The Black Rock Grill is a stylish and contemporary restaurant overlooking the glorious Norfolk coast. Our unique dining experience offers a delicious choice of succulent starters, indulgent desserts and the famous Black Rock Main Course. A selection of the finest quality beef and lamb fillets, salmon and scallops are presented to your table to cook on your very own hot rock to your own taste. Plus, no oils or fats are used, which makes the food both incredibly tasty and healthy too. So why not enjoy this fantastic exerience for £35 per person

For more information, or to book, call 01502 735 121

Or visit us at www.theblackrockgrill.com

What Sundays are made for...

the sunday carvery

Enjoy the finest selection of tender roast beef, succulent crown of turkey and slow cooked honey-glazed gammon, accompanied by a tasty selection of fresh seasonal vegetables and don’t forget your giant Yorkie! Plus, make the most of your meal with a choice of four gravies. Sundays are made for relaxing, so let us worry about the cooking (and the washing up too) while you enjoy a delicious carvery for only £9.95 for a main course, £12.95 for two courses or £14.95 for a full three courses of mouth-watering food!

Give us a call today on 01502 735 091 Or visit us at www.thesundaycarvery.com

A fine dining establishment serving modern British food

Tel: 01603 633522 79 Upper St Giles Street, Norwich, NR2 1AB

Book online: www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com

Eating local B U T

T H I N K I N G

WWW.NORFOLKFOODANDDRINK.COM

B I G

WWW.ANGLIAFARMERS.CO.UK

Clarke Willis is Director of Norfolk Food & Drink and Chief Executive of Anglia Farmers, the UK’s largest agricultural purchasing group. And his challenge, as he tells Emma Outten, is to get us all to see the bigger picture when it comes to food production in the county GO TO THE MANY food and drink festivals in the country throughout this year and you can look forward to sampling the wares of a host of small food producers. The challenge for Clarke Willis, as director of Norfolk Food & Drink, is to reconnect customers to where their food comes from, on a much larger scale as well. It’s not really surprising that he should have a wider perspective on the subject of food provenance, as he is also Chief Executive of Anglia Farmers (or AF as it has been rebranded), the UK’s largest agricultural purchasing group. A graduate in Agricultural Marketing, Clarke has spent his working life in the agricultural industry, joining Anglia Farmers 12 years ago. The group, based at Honingham Thorpe near Norwich offers purchasing power at the very beginning of the food chain, although as Clarke explains, it is also forging links within the farming industry, as Clarke says: ‘In terms of how we are working at AF, there are a small number of examples right now where we are working with the food chain.’ Waitrose, for example, has a branded membership of AF, called the Waitrose Farming Partnership. ‘There’s also AF First Milk, the largest dairy cooperative; and Tesco is reconnecting with its producers – how big a deal is that?’ The Producer Club is a new joint venture between Tesco and Anglia Farmers. Clarke believes that the major players in the retail and food service sectors are beginning to ‘recognise the

importance of provenance in what they put on their shelves or on the plates.’ He gives the example of McDonald’s, sourcing potatoes from Elveden Estate, one of its flagship farms in Europe. As for the retail side, he says: ‘It’s very easy to decry what’s on the shelf but I can tell you in the last 12 months there’s been far more of a reconnection.’ Honingham Thorpe is also the registered office of Norfolk Food and Drink Ltd, which became a year-round organisation as well as a membership organisation last year and launched a Proudly Norfolk label initiative. ‘One of the reasons we went across the whole year is that actually we missed some of the key seasons,’ says Clarke. ‘The Norfolk Food & Drink festival is about showcasing producers of finished products within the food chain, but the world of food and drink is far bigger than the small, artisan producers that we generally think about.’ Having said that, he applauds the likes of Fielding Cottage, winner of the Super Gold Award at the World Cheese Awards in 2014 for its Wensum White goat cheese and acknowledges: ‘It is about smaller artisan producers like Sam Steggles down the road who has won one of the major prizes.’ But he also has a much broader view: ‘A lot of people don’t realise that Silver Spoon comes from sugar beet

{the big inter view}

processed in only four factories in the country - two of which are in Norfolk.’ And he cites the examples of Traditional Norfolk Poultry, one of the UK’s leading producers of free range and organic chickens and turkeys, and winner of the Best Norfolk Producer Award 2015; along with Pasta Foods and its ambitions to grow and brand durum wheat pasta in the region. He adds: ‘If you look at Heygate Farms, with their Norfolk Peer - they are growing thousands of acres of potatoes which can be bought in your local Tesco store – that, to me, is what it’s about.’ Helping to link up the food chain is a new section on the Norfolk Food & Drink website - a dedicated farmers and growers section, featuring ‘scale producers’ such as Cornerways Nursery near Downham Market, which grows 140 million eco-friendly tomatoes every year. Here you will also find Simon Dann, the dairy farmer based between Norwich and Dereham, who is behind Norfolk Farmhouse Ice Cream, a good example of a producer adding value if ever there was one: ‘Part of our challenge is to help producers – farmers and growers

– add value to what they produce,’ says Clarke, who believes that the creation of a new Food Enterprise Zone in Greater Norwich, will help in this regard. If Clarke would like consumers to think big when it comes to food and drink produced in this county, he would also like producers to think big, too. In the autumn, at the Local Flavours event at the Norfolk Showground Arena, South West Norfolk MP and Environment Secretary Liz Truss challenged Norfolk food producers to be the county’s first protected food name. Several of the county’s foods could be eligible for the scheme – including Norfolk Saffron, Cromer Crab, Norfolk Herring, Norfolk Black Turkey, Norfolk Biffin apple, Norfolk Lavender and Binham Blue cheese. Clarke supports this idea (the UK’s 64 protected products are estimated to have contributed more than £900 million to the European economy). The county is already home to global food and drink brands such as Colman’s and Kettle Chips, and Clarke would like more county producers to think beyond the borders and think about the export market, too. After all, he says: ‘Norfolk food and drink is great.’

OWNER & CHEF RICHARD BAINBRIDGE

{eating out} RICE PUDDING

Benedicts

Pippa Lain-Smith pushes the boat out with a lavish five-course taster menu at Benedicts in Norwich - the latest hot place to eat in the city!

s I walked into Benedicts restaurant for the first time, I was struck by its plainness. Neutral walls, simple wooden chairs, cloth-less tables and one large dining room; with no intimate booths or romantic corners. Would this be a cool and lacklustre dining experience? Benedicts is owned by chef Richard Bainbridge and his wife Katja. Many Norfolk foodies will have experienced Richard's Michelin-starred cooking when he was headchef at Morston Hall. But having his own place is clearly providing him with the inspiration to create a collection of dishes which are putting him on the culinary map in his own right. There were four in our group and we opted for the five-course taster menu. Due to timings, every member of your party has to be up for the gastronomic challenge, but none of us needed much persuading. My friend was tempted by a starter from the a la carte menu and Katja, who runs front of house with charm and wit, immediately offered to substitute one course of the taster menu. As we were enjoying aperitifs of German beer, from Katja’s home town of Dresden, and French rosé, our taste buds were limbered-up by some delicious homemade bread ('go on, have a couple of pieces’) and some beautiful canapés. These marvellous mouthfuls gave us a small taste of what was to come. The first was Richard’s interpretation of cheese and

pineapple and the second a homemade rice cracker with dashi mayonnaise and thyme powder; each a fabulous burst of flavour. As anyone who watched the Great British Menu will know, Richard is a fan of Jerusalem artichoke. We began our meal proper with Jerusalem artichoke soup with pickled mushrooms and basil oil. I believe you can tell when food is really good when a conversation about holidays, children or work is instantly taken over by ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ and ‘isn’t this amazing?’. The silky-smooth texture of the soup, with the tangy mushrooms popping up every now and again, made for a superb start. The portion size was just enough to leave you satisfied but definitely ready for more. Our second course was pig’s head terrine with King’s Lynn brown shrimp and cauliflower. I have to admit that the thought of eating pig’s head didn’t make me salivate; but the dish was delicious. Just think of the most melt-in-the-mouth belly pork that you’ve ever eaten and you’re in the right ballpark. The tiny, sweet brown shrimps, cauliflower puree and delicate pieces of roasted cauliflower were perfect accompaniments to the tender pork. His Caesar salad is a thing of true loveliness. At the centre of the dish is a scorched baby gem; providing a moreish, smoky base for cured egg yolk, gentleman’s relish and a generous sprinkle of parmesan, grated cured egg yolk and spelt crumb. It’s unlike any salad

TRADITIONAL SUNDAY ROASTS

DINNER, BED & BREAKFAST £85 per person*

£9.95 Here’s just a taster*... Rib of Heckingham Beef Loin of Blythburgh Pork Specials, Fish & Vegetarian choices also available We serve Sunday lunch in the bar and in our restaurant from 12.00 - 3.00pm

Reservations: 01508 528039 www.theloddonswan.co.uk CHURCH PLAIN, LODDON, NORFOLK NR14 6LX *Please note our menu is subject to change

Make a reservation, we’d love to see you:

01493 484008

KATJA BAINBRIDGE ALL IMAGES COPYRIGHT OF

BENEDICTS RESTAURANT, ST BENEDICT’S, NORWICH, TEL 01603 926080, VISIT WWW.RESTAURANTBENEDICTS.COM

you will ever experience and I could sing its praises for many, many words to come. But instead: on to the fish course. Richard really knows how to plate-up with style, but without making food look over-fussy. The Cromer crab with almond milk mousse, cucumber and peach was as pretty as a picture and, as the description suggests, was light and refreshing. The beef course of eight-week-hung Blickling Hall Estate Aberdeen Angus, Norfolk Peer potatoes, garden herbs and béarnaise sabayon was a firm favourite of our group. To be perfectly honest, I usually prefer my red meat medium to well done, and the rareness of the steak did initially put me off. However, after the first mouthful I was a convert to meat as it, arguably, should be cooked. The decadent fondant potato and creamy béarnaise combined with the succulent meat to make this a truly memorable dish. At this point guests have the option of a cheese course for a £5 supplement and we thought it would be rude not to partake. As you’d expect, the selection of cheeses is British and good; served with seasonal chutney, fruit bread and celery.

It’s strange but, despite having already eaten five courses, you’re ready for dessert. Described on the menu as rice pudding mousse with late English raspberries and vanilla ice cream, you’d be excused for expecting something relatively plain. But this pudding was far from that. A spelt crumble added a super element of texture, and the mousse, served at the table from a foam gun, finished off our meal with a touch of theatre. Benedicts doesn't need vibrant artwork and sumptuous, upholstered furniture to create warmth and specialness; this comes from the wonderful staff and outstanding food. With his recent success on the Great British Menu, Richard’s success as a chef/ restaurateur is, I hope, guaranteed; so make your reservation soon. I’ve already booked to go back again.

PICTURE BY

BOO MARSHALL

PICTURE BY

BOO MARSHALL

{artisan producer}

VISIT

www.essencefoods.co.uk

¡n

s e sence

Norfolk jam maker Sarah Savage uses the fruits and herbs from her farm setting to produce juicy pots of utter bliss. SARAH HARDY opens the lid on this thriving small business

SARAH SAVAGE produces the highly popular – and delicious – Essence range of preserves and chutneys. She has run the company since 2005, starting out making jams from her own kitchen, and now creates around 20 different products, including a range of infused sugars. The goodies include, among others, a Norfolk Sweet Pickle, a Raspberry and Mint Jam, an Apple Chutney and a Strawberry and Rose Jam. Sarah says: ‘The most popular products are the ones with lavender in, such as our Blueberry and Lavender Jam, although our Mango Chutney goes like gold dust!’ Her naturally infused sugars include a vanilla one and a rose one and for those that like a real treat, Sarah also produces a Chocolate Sparkle Dust for say the top of a hot chocolate, and a Flicker of Firelight Sugar, with cinnamon and orange for perhaps the top of an apple pie. Mouth watering yet? Sarah, who grew up in Norwich and used to run the highly popular Logans deli and sandwich bar on Swan Lane in the city, is now based at Salle Moor Farm, near Reepham, and couldn’t be happier.

ESSENCE JAMS AND CHUTNEYS are stocked in seven Waitrose stores in the region, including Wymondham, Swaffham, North Walsham, Ely and Newmarket. The infused sugars can be found at Bintree Farm Shop and Bawdeswell Garden Centre. Sarah also attends farmers’ markets across the county. www.essencefoods.co.uk

SARAH SAVAGE OWNER OF ESSENCE JAMS & CHUTNEYS

She says: ‘It is a lovely spot and I needed somewhere bigger, to increase my production so the business could go to the next level. And I appreciate having other businesses around me; we all look out for each other and get on very well. For example, if a delivery arrives and someone isn’t there, we all help each other.’ As you’d expect from this budding entrepreneur, Sarah has plenty of plans. ‘We have taken over one of the poly tunnels on the farm and plan to grow our own herbs to use. And not just the regular ones, either. We can really go mad and see what we can come up with,’ she laughs. Add in the organic orchard at the site and the abundance of hedgerows which brim over with berries, and there is much for Sarah to use as inspiration. She is also starting to work with Ali Williams, a fellow local producer from North Norfolk who runs Jubberwacky. ‘She creates mustards and chutneys, and a few jams, so we are going to work together. She is moving into Salle, too, and so we can really help each other out. We are both so busy, it makes sense to try and work together.

{news}

GET IN TOUCH... NORTHREPPS COTTAGE COUNTRY HOTEL, NORTHREPPS, CROMER, TEL 01263 579202, VISIT WWW.NORTHREPPSCOTTAGE.CO.UK

Now that’s what I call a charming setting! Northrepps Cottage Country Hotel is tucked away in the beautiful rolling countryside near Cromer. Situated a mile or so inland, it oozes seclusion and good old fashioned peace and quiet. The hotel, part of the Gurney estate at Northrepps, was built in 1793 in a Gothic style, and has gardens designed by Sir Humphry Repton, who was also responsible for other well known spots such as Sheringham Park in Norfolk, Harewood House near Leeds and Kenwood House in Highgate, London. It was turned into a small hotel in 2009 by the current owners, Simon and Deborah Gurney, and now has a new management team, husband and wife Jonathan (Johno) and Laura Gardiner. The pair are delighted to be back in the area, having come from Cromer and Sheringham respectively, but they have worked in Cheshire for the past 15 years, running an outside catering company. Laura says: ‘We have always worked together - Johno is the chef and great

on health and safety, and staffing, and I have always been front of house, running functions and so on. We really complement each other and understand how each other works. ‘We were keen to come home - we always knew we would, and the time was right.’ They were excited about taking over at Northrepps Cottage Country Hotel and have many ideas about how to raise its profile. At present it has eight bedrooms, two on the ground floor and the rest on the first floor. There is the well respected Repton’s Restaurant for fine dining plus Humphry’s Bar where you might enjoy morning coffee or afternoon tea. Add in the Gurney Suite which can cater for functions of up to 160 people, and really lovely gardens, and this is a place with plenty of potential! Johno explains that it is being refurbished, with all rooms redecorated, new furniture bought and: ‘Next on the list is a kitchen refit.’ He is very keen to make the hotel part of the local community. ‘We want to hold children’s cookery sessions, have a Christmas market, carol singing - and

more,’ he says, adding that he already works with local schools to share knowledge and techniques. And Laura is full of ideas, too. ‘We’re making the bar dog friendly, and hopefully putting down a new floor which will be more suitable, and I want to buy a couple of doggy beds, too!’ Johno trained at the Hotel School at Norwich City College and the pair met when he was the chef at a pub in Sheringham and Laura was a waitress. He says: ‘I’ve worked in many, many pubs and restaurants in Norfolk and it certainly has changed since I left. People are much more interested in what they eat - they want to know where it is from.’ And he is particularly keen to use estate produce, saying: ‘We have great game, wonderful fruit, we harvest our own peas, I grow all my own herbs - it just goes on! The menu really reflects where we are, from the proximity to the sea - I have a fisherman who fishes off Cromer Pier - to the goodies from the fields and from local producers such as our great cheese makers.’

NeW FaCeS

A country house hotel in North Norfolk has a new husband and wife team at the helm with plenty of ideas to put it firmly on the county’s gourmet map SARAH HARDY finds out more

strattons hotel with self catering, restaurant and café deli

boutique luxurious classic contemporary heart of norfolk award winning restaurant afternoon tea cocoes café deli self catering Luxury without sacrifice to the environment ash close swaffham norfolk pe37 7nh 01760 723845 enquiries@strattonshotel.com www.strattonshotel.com

Coming in 2016 Leaf Cutter Ant exhibit

nimal Adventure

it’sss Braziliant!

Try the Jumping Pillows!

South American Animal Adventure

Explore the Amazona in Cromer

outdoor play

oo.co.uk

South American Animal Adventure Facebook.com/AmazonaZoo

@AmazonaZoo

Hall Road, Cromer NR27 9JG Tel. 01263 510741

amazonazoo.co.uk

{gadgets & gizmos}

juicy january

Hands up if your New Year's resolutions revolve around healthy eating? Emma Outten looks at the best kitchen gadgets to help you eat more fruit and veg

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05.

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01. Russell Hobbs Purifry Multi Fryer, £99 until December 24, otherwise £149.99, Clas Ohlson, intu Chapelfield 02. Dexam Spiralizer Spiral Slicer with three Blades, RRP £25 (now £20), Jarrold's, Norwich 03. Zeal Fruit Jacket, £5.99, Bakers and Larners of Holt, www.bakersandlarners.co.uk 04. Living Nostalgia Vintage Blue Heavy Duty Juicer, £29.95, www.kitchencraft.co.uk 05. Sage (by Heston Blumenthal) the Nutri Juicer, was £149.99 now £135, Lakeland, Norwich 06. Nutribullet 15 Piece Pro 900 Series + Life Changing Recipes Book, £119.99, John Lewis, Norwich 07. Royal VKB Citrange Double Sided Juicer, £14.95, www.scandinavianshop.co.uk

07.

BE B ST

RE O F ED

THE RUTLAND’S TEAM: Mike and Marion Rutland (third and fourth left) with their children (from left) Carol Newman, Tracy Sturman, James Rutland and Kit Mabilio, and butcher Joe Clifton

COME ON DOWN... RUTLAND’S, Briston Road, Melton Constable, Norfolk, tel 01263 860562, visit www.rutland-butchers.co.uk

{shop front}

M&M Rutland Butchers In the first of a regular feature, Norfolk food writer Andy Newman visits one of the region’s great foodie shops. He starts with Rutland Butchers in Melton Constable near Holt M&M Rutland in North Norfolk is one of the finest examples of a butchers shop in the county. A true family concern, operating in the heart of, and loved by, its local community, it was founded in 1972 by Marion Rutland, herself the daughter of a butcher. Starting with just half a dozen local customers, the business quickly started to grow, and husband Mike – an engineer by trade – was soon roped in. ‘I taught Mike the trade, and he brought the finesse of engineering to it – he has always been very neat,’ laughs Marion, now aged 78, and still very much a part of the business alongside 79-year-old Mike. Each of their three daughters (Carol, Tracy and Kit) joined the family business when they left school, as did James, the baby of the family, his fate sealed at an early age. ‘I could peel an apple with a steak knife at aged four,’ he says. Being the youngest wasn’t always easy, and his older sisters soon cut him down to size. But as the girls started their own families, James gradually took the helm, and for the last 10 years has led the business. But it’s still very much a family affair, with all four siblings working in the business, as well as Mike and Marion, who both play an active part. Traditional butchers have not had the easiest of times in recent years, with the challenges of BSE (mad cows disease) and foot-and-mouth adding to the pressure from supermarket competition. But it’s not been all negative: the horse meat scandal was a real boost, with consumers losing confidence in big corporations, and seeking that element of trust that only a local butcher can provide. ‘People are so much more interested in provenance,’ says James. ‘We butchers are proud of where our meat comes from. Why shouldn’t a meal tell a story – eating is one of the most important things we do. ‘Those butchers who have survived are the ones who have established themselves in their communities. It’s about building a loyalty.’ That level of immersion in the local community is evident at Rutland’s. Our conversation is interrupted every few minutes, not just by customers, but by locals popping their headS round the door to say hello, and even car horns hooting a noisy hello from the street outside.

Meat doesn’t always have the best press, whether it’s scandals about animal welfare, or more recent stories about its implications on health. James says the answer is to eat good quality rather than quantity, choosing the best possible meat, and learning how to cook it properly. ‘TV chefs like James Martin and John Torode have helped raise awareness of how to cook meat properly, which is why more people are now buying meat on the bone, recognising that fat gives flavour, and realising the importance of maturing meat properly. As a nation we are much better cooks overall than we used to be, and that is changing the types of meats that are popular.’ These shifting trends can be driven by economics as well. During the recession, cheaper cuts, which require slower cooking, found favour again, and these have retained their popularity as we have come out of recession – although prime cuts are once again starting to come to the fore. Whatever the cut, meat from a traditional butcher will invariably be better quality. Good butchers buy the whole carcasses, which not only gives them total control over the provenance (Rutland’s sources its meat from local farmers), but also allows proper hanging and maturing, something which is sadly lacking in many supermarkets. And it is these factors which make all the difference. Like most family businesses, there is an eye on the next generation. James’ two sons, aged five and three, are already becoming versed in the ways of traditional butchery, and nieces and nephews all get roped in to help at busy times. And in an echo of real tradition, the business took on an apprentice butcher, Joe Clifton, from the village two years ago, who is now a qualified butcher. Rutland’s is the essence of a top-quality, traditional family butcher. With a wall full of awards, including for their unique Norfolk haggis, this is a thriving business which is not afraid to trade on tradition. Fortunately, consumers are realising what that means: trust, local provenance, quality, and above all delicious food.

Do you run a bakery, deli or foodie emporium you think we should feature, let us know! Email sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk

H C N U A L UE ISS Our January launch issue is out on December 15 and will be available in all your favourite foodie spots free of charge!

RESTAURANT REVIEWS CHEF Q&A COMPETITIONS PROFILES WITH LEADING LIGHTS SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS COLUMNISTS SHOP PROFILES RECIPES NEWS AND MORE... SEARCH FOR FEAST NORFOLK ON

FEASTNORFOLKMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Christmas Cracker Fayre*

Saturday 12th and Sunday 13th December, 10am - 5pm ëChildren’s activitiesë ëChristmas wreath workshop**ë ëSnow filled willow play areaë ëChristmas trees on sale****ë ëBrass ensemble and carol singersë ëStunning gardens and maze openë ëVisit Father Christmas in his Grotto***ë ëHomemade Somerleyton Estate produceë ëMulled wine, hot chestnuts and mince piesë ëBeers from a local brewer and wine tastingë ëChristmas market with local crafts and suppliersë ëFestive flower arranging and decoration demonstrationë *Entrance fee £5, includes mulled wine or hot chocolate with marshmallows and a mince pie. **Workshop must be booked in advance by emailing info@somerleyton.co.uk and costs £30 per person, includes your own wreath to take home. ***£5 supplement per person. ****Limited availability. Supporting East Anglia’s Children’s Hospices.

Somerleyton Hall Gardens, Lovingland, NR32 5QQ visit.somerleyton.co.uk

{Books}

Sweet Enough

You might not see sugar featuring in too many recipe books this month, but there are plenty of sweet treats, as Emma Outten reports

DELICIOUSLY ELLA EVERY DAY by Ella Woodward

published by Yellow Kite (an imprint of Hodder & Stoughton) on January 21 Publishing phenomenon of 2015, Ella Woodward, returns with her eagerly awaited new book, Deliciously Ella Every Day, on January 21. Ella is the creator of Deliciously Ella, a healthy food and lifestyle blog which has rapidly become an internet sensation, with more than five million visitors every month from all over the world. 2015 saw the release of her first book, Deliciously Ella, which was an instant number one bestseller, and the fastest-selling debut cookbook since records began. It has now sold more than 250,000 copies in the UK alone. And this month Yellow Kite will publish Ella’s new book, Deliciously Ella Every Day. Featuring more than 100 enticing and easy to follow recipes and featuring the top ten rules for living the Deliciously Ella way, the book is a must-have for anyone who wants to eat healthily without it being difficult. Ella discovered her passion for plant-based recipes after being diagnosed with a rare illness called Postural Tachycardia Syndrome (PoTS). She couldn’t walk down the street, slept for 16 hours a day and was in chronic pain most of the time. Conventional medicine failed to help her, so she decided to completely overhaul her diet and overnight the selfconfessed ‘sugar-monster’ gave up meat, gluten, dairy, sugar and all processed food.

200 LIGHT

sugar-free recipes

I QUIT SUGAR – SIMPLICIOUS

published by Octopus Publishing Group

by Sarah Wilson

Featuring simple step-by-step instructions and stunning photography, the 200 Light titles prove that nourishing, delicious meals can be achieved in under 500, 300, and even 200 calories! 200 Light sugar-free recipes is the perfect choice for anyone hoping to lower their sugar intake whilst still enjoying the sweeter things in life. Recipes are taken from around the globe and range from rosemary panna cotta and cod rarebit to maple apple cake and Brazil chocolate brownies.

Sarah Wilson's also a blogger; and is the author of international bestsellers I Quit Sugar and I Quit Sugar For Life. Her new book, I Quit Sugar: Simplicious, is dedicated to the art of creating meals regenerated from leftovers, cupboard essentials or any scraggy-looking veggies! Expect 306 sugar-free recipes. The host of the first series of MasterChef Australia, the highest rating show in Australian TV history, lives in Sydney. Chris Rushby, of Jarrold Book Department, says: ‘She's already had a couple of 'I Quit Sugar' books out and they've worked well.’

LEAN IN 15

by Joe Wicks

published by Bluebird

published by Macmillan Joe Wicks is something of an internet sensation and heart throb! The online nutrition coach and creator of the 90 Day SSS (shift, shape, sustain) Plan, which has transformed the lives of tens of thousands of people all over the world, is bringing out a new book, containing 100 delicious recipes for 15 minute meals to keep you lean and healthy. If you already follow him online, you’ll know he has a degree in sports science, and spent five years as a personal trainer so expect workouts as well as recipes. Chris Rushby says: ‘Plenty of people follow him online and know about him, so this should be a really popular book.’

200 LIGHT

gluten-free recipes published by Octopus Publishing Group

200 Light Gluten-free recipes is packed with mouth-watering dishes inspired from across the world. The international dishes range from orange shortbread cookies and monkfish kebabs with tabbouleh to onion bhajis and Sushi triangles. The calorie count per portion is included to avoid any unwanted post-Christmas feast surprises. With each dish guaranteed to be under 500 calories, these recipes will help make healthier eating habits a lifelong reality rather than a short-lived New Year's resolution.

High Street, Tuddenham, Nr. Newmarket, IP28 6SQ 01638 713552

Hotel | restaurant | bar £99 winter break - stay in one of our stunning and luxurious bedrooms this winter from £99 per couple, including breakfast and VAT. Available for stays Sunday to Thursday, 4th January – 11th February 2016.

Lunch menu - 2 courses £15.50 | 3 courses £19.50

www.tuddenhammill.co.uk

Afternoon Tea at The Assembly House Simply the place for afternoon tea in the city! The Assembly House, Theatre Street, Norwich, NR2 1RQ www.assemblyhousenorwich.co.uk

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Dolomites

Mountain High, Waistband Tight MARK NICHOLLS WORKS UP AN APPETITE FOR PASTA AND PROSECCO AS HE HIKES IN THE DOLOMITES REGION OF ITALY

IT IS THE PERFECT TRIP FOR ANY serious foodie - discovering how to cook a few authentic Italian dishes (and enjoying plenty of great restaurants, too) but walking off all that naughtiness in beautiful mountain scenery. I was travelling to the Dolomites, tucked in the north of Italy and bang next door to that other great foodie country, Austria, to learn a few tricks of the culinary trade. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009, the Dolomites are famed for wonderful walks among some of the oldest mountains in the world. Sitting in the shadow of some of the higher peaks is Val Gardena; comprising the three villages of Ortisei, Selva di Gardena and Santa Cristina, it is an area where outdoor activities combine with high quality accommodation, spa and wellness facilities and excellent cuisine, whether in the restaurants in the villages or the mountain huts.

WHAT TO EAT... POLENTA Often referred to as ‘the bread of the Dolomites’, this versatile dish made from yellow maize (corn) is served a number of different ways, depending mainly on the season. Enjoy it cut into slices and fried or grilled during summer, accompanied by Parmesan cheese or freshly picked mushrooms. Or on a cold winter day a steaming bowl of polenta with sausages or tomato sauce or gulasch (a tasty meat stew) cannot be beaten!

APFELSTRUDEL AND RAVIOLI

GAME MEAT If you truly want to get a taste of the land, you must try a dish or two of one of the local game meats that are prevalent in the Dolomites, such as cervo (deer), daino (fallow deer), capriolo (roe buck), camoscio (chamois, or a goat-antelope native to Europe), and stambecco (ibex, or mountain goat).

PICTURED

TRIS DI CANEDERLI (Three tastings of canederli) – this is basically three delicious balls of bread (farm-style dumplings approaching the size of tennis balls!). The canederli usually contain Speck, a type of cured ham similar to proscutto and produced only in the South Tyrol, and are served ‘en brood’ or in a soup-like broth.

THE WHERES & HOWS... Mark Nicholls stayed at the 4* superior Hotel Gran Baita www. hotelgranbaita.com/en in Selva, which also has an excellent spa. Nearest airports are Innsbruck, Verona, Venice and Milan Bergamo. For more information on Val Gardena go to www.valgardena.it/en

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Dolomites

These huts, straddling the South Tirol region of Northern Italy, are often referred to as rifugios and offer a network of ‘refuges’ or sanctuary for hikers making their way through this splendid terrain on foot, or for skiers pausing for warmth and refreshment in the winter. But they are also wellequipped rest halts with good quality accommodation and restaurants that offer some of the finest mountain food you’ll find anywhere. I was based at the charming Hotel Gran Baita in Selva, a typically rustic small hotel run by Anna Messner Perathoner and her family. I joined her and her daughter to discover how to make a couple of traditional dishes of the region: the pasta dish of crafuncis, spinach-filled ravioli, and that most delicious of desserts, apfelstrudel. Recipes are often carefully guarded, being handed down from generation to generation, and naturally use local ingredients, especially plenty of fresh herbs.

The ravioli was surprisingly fiddly, with nimble fingers required to create the neat parcels and a bead of sweat most definitely developed on my forehead as the time ticked away very quickly. Move over Masterchef! My apfelstrudel was a triumph, with attention to detail required as Anna kept a very careful eye on my attempts. And the best bit? Well, sitting down to a long, lingering lunch, enjoying the fruits of our labours. It was helped along by one or two of the local cocktails, the Hugo, made with Prosecco, elderflower syrup, sparkling water and fresh mint leaves which are as yummy as they sound! But there is a need to walk as the landscape simply calls you. It is everything it should be - glorious pasture land, covered in yellow flowers in spring time, with the sounds of cow bells filling the air and those majestic peaks constantly in view. Keep your eye out for small bunches of eidelweiss, too, and yes, you could well find yourself singing along to that Sound of Music favourite! One challenging walk saw us take a cable car up to about 1650m from Ortisei, then we climbed up, through the pine trees, to about 2000m to a high grassy pasture where we trekked through the Naturalparc Puez-Geisler, pausing at the Rifugio Brogles for refreshments. Ahead lay the more challenging part of the route, a sharp ascent through the Pana wind gap.

The air thinned, and the path steepened as we made our way upwards to 2447m. The latter stages of the narrowing gap were buttressed by logs with steps carved in, holding the rocks together to create a safe route. Once at the top the sense of achievement was marked, standing on the sharp spine of an escarpment with views back down our path in one direction and across the valley to Selva in the other. Just to our left some 300 or so metres below, was the Sofie Hutte, a gourmetladen mountain retreat with a restaurant that has nudged the attention of food critics. We enjoyed a welcoming glass of Prosecco on the balcony in the warm sunlight, but knew that we were lucky as the weather can change quickly at this altitude. Inside, the food was sumptuous; seafood spaghetti and the tastiest lamb chop. The return to Selva was a two-hour hike, even though the village was constantly in view at the cup of the valley. The path, descending virtually all the way, wound down the mountainside, through trees where we met cows and goats and inquisitive ponies came to greet us. This is a magical place, with the chance to sample delicious cheeses, salamis, breads - and wines - in a jaw dropping landscape. If it seems a tiny bit familiar, you might well have spotted it in the classic Bond movie, For Your Eyes Only.

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{food director y}

THE HONEY CAFE

THE CLIFF

FOX & HOUNDS

Princes Street, Norwich

Try our gorgeous honey, made right here in Norfolk. The bees enjoy our nearby lavender fields and produce something very special. Everything is made at the farm and we love visitors. We open every day from 10-4pm and our café serves up our famous date and honey loaf. Visit www.honeycafe.co.uk for more.

MARKET ROW

Princes Street, Norwich Try our gorgeous honey, made right here in Norfolk. The bees enjoy our nearby lavender fields and produce something very special. Everything is made at the farm and we love visitors. We open every day from 10-4pm and our café serves up our famous date and honey loaf. Visit www.honeycafe.co.uk for more.

THE SWAN

Have a look in our larder and see if anything takes your fancy. Feast Norfolk is keen to promote local businesses, so if you want to get involved then get in touch!

WINE ROOMS

GRILL HOUSE

THE MANOR

Princes Street, Norwich

{opinion}

OUR FIRST GUEST COLUMNIST VANESSA SCOTT OF STRATTONS HOTEL IN SWAFFHAM WANTS MORE YOUNG PEOPLE TO ENTER THE FOOD INDUSTRY IT IS SOMEWHAT BAFFLING to be told that, despite the current plethora of TV programmes around food, there is a recruitment crisis in the restaurant industry which threatens the sustainability of some of Britain’s top culinary establishments. Editors, chefs and writers appreciate that foodie articles help sell magazines, books and newspapers where the weekend supplements strongly feature food in all its glory; from the raw stories of food production to farmers’ markets, food festivals, dinner ladies, diet and nutrition to the lofty stars of Michelin. For today’s youngsters it is a cool trade to be in. The sad fact is the trade has grown faster than education officials, county councillors and politicians have reacted to it!

Common sense should question how catering and hospitality can be low skilled when there are opportunities for graduate programmes. There are apprenticeships in hospitality and catering that cover all aspects of working in this industry; there are 29 different routes at Level 2 that encompass food production, beverages, housekeeping and so on and each of these has to include Maths and English and a technical Certificate. A recent report from UK Employment and Skills found that restaurants were struggling to fill nearly half of all skilled chef vacancies. It’s not unusual to see the county’s chefs on Twitter literally begging for chefs to get in touch regarding positions in their kitchens. I have just overseen a pop-up restaurant at West Lexham Manor as part of the Brecks Food Festival. The dinner formed part of the annual calendar of events for Norfolk Food and Drink Ltd, a not for profit organisation aimed at raising the profile of the food and drink industry and supporting the people who work in it through collaboration. I am very proud to be a patron of NFAD and fellow patron, Chris Coubrough, chef/patron of The Crown at Wells and The Ship at Brancaster, provided an excellent dinner featuring rabbit in homage to its historical importance in the Brecks. Local school children help front and back of house. They receive training and do a very impressive job which always gets remarked upon. This year Chris asked one student to help plate up the main courses. To a close observer you could see he was anxious but by the time he had plated his sixtieth portion of veg, he was beaming with pride and satisfaction and it earned him the offer of work experience with Chris. As members of the industry we have a responsibility to work with our local schools and colleges but they also need to match syllabuses to local business needs - and get more students into this very rewarding career.

LOCAL SCHOOL CHILDREN HELP FRONT AND BACK OF HOUSE. THEY RECEIVE TRAINING AND DO A VERY IMPRESSIVE JOB WHICH ALWAYS GETS REMARKED UPON. Leading restaurateurs in Norfolk warn of a ‘dire shortage’ of chefs across the industry, from chefs de partie to sous chefs. The situation is so serious, they claim, that it threatens to put a stop to the county’s foodie boom. The hospitality industry is the UK’s sixth largest contributor to export earnings and fourth largest employer - three million people or 10 per cent of the workforce and more than 180,000 businesses. Too many young people are being pushed into academic rather than vocational courses which they may be more suited to. In conversations with Norfolk County Council, there is a misconception that the catering industry is a low skilled sector. There is education needed here for those who control spending taxpayers’ money! In my career I have had the pleasure of working in some pretty amazing kitchens, albeit for very brief periods, and I wonder what chefs such as Alastair Little, Raymond Blanc and Jean Christophe Novelli would make of these ill informed views.

A stunning boutique

retreat a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw

from the North Norfolk coast,

offering awardwinning dining.

3 AA Rosettes EDP Chef of the Year 2012

Enjoy spectacular sea views and informal dishes in the Eating Rooms or fine dining in the candlelit Conservatory.

Titchwell Manor, Titchwell, Nr Brancaster, Norfolk PE31 8BB 01485 210221 info@titchwellmanor.com www.titchwellmanor.com @TitchwellManor

BREWED IN NORFOLK

woodfordes.co.uk 01603 722218

Woodfordeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Woodbastwick, Norfolk NR13 6SW Please drink sensibly - drinkaware.co.uk