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EDITOR'S LETTER
WELCOME TO OUR APRIL ISSUE, our fourth, so we are really getting our feet under the table! We remain all about promoting the great places and people connected with food and drink in the region - whether it’s a thriving farmers’ market, a new restaurant or a particular event. We continue to have our regular features - our spotlight on a particular shop, our travel reports, our look at gadgets and gizmos, our profile on a ‘mover’ or ‘shaker’ and our comment piece - this month James Sawrey-Cookson of The Last Wine Bar reveals why he thinks this Norwich eaterie has made it to its 26th birthday. Congratulations from us all at Feast! We’re also welcoming a new columnist, Sarah Ruffhead, a keen foodie and general
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good time girl! She always makes us giggle so I hope you enjoy her page as she tells us what she’s been tucking into this month. Our competition is a lovely stay at The Grove in Cromer so be sure to enter and, in case you’re wondering, Leigh Smith won a stay at Byfords in Holt and Emma Chester scooped the trip on board Herbert Woods’ picnic boat. Both were competitions in our February issue and very well done to the winners. We print thousands of copies of Feast Norfolk and all our stockists can be viewed on our website so have a look to see where you can buy us - and there’s plenty of additional material there to enjoy, too. Don’t forget that we like to hear from you so let us know the places that you’d like us to review or articles
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that you think we should be writing! What are we missing? And I’d love to see a photo of any of our recipes that you’ve tackled! Do keep in touch. And remember that you can follow us on Twitter and Facebook and, now, Instagram! Happy reading!
Sarah Hardy SARAH HARDY, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk
SEARCH FOR FEAST NORFOLK ON
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In this issue -
C O N T E N T S
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COVERY STOR 9 772397 167017
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Bursting into season
BIG INTERVIEW - DIANA BROCKLEBANK SCOTT OF CREAKE ABBEY REVIEWED - KINDREDS: WYMONDHAM'S NEW RESTAURANT IRON AGE PIGS IN WEST NORFOLK SHOP FRONT - INSIDE BAKERS AND LARNERS OF HOLT
86 Kitchen gardener Ellen Mary talks grow your own asparagus and offers a risotto recipe
ABOUT US
03 Editor’s letter 42 What’s coming up in our May issue 58 Want to know the best way to eat and drink your way through the two Bank Holiday weekends in May? Try a magazine subscription 88 Readers’ letters and our favourite tweets
INGREDIENT OF THE MONTH
10 Chris Avey of River Green Cafe in Trowse, near Norwich, uses Fielding Cottage Cheese from Honingham, near Dereham, for three fresh as a daisy dishes as spring says hello!
WHAT’S ON
16 Our round up of the best food and drink events in this part of the region this month 18 We look forward to the East Anglian Game & Country Fair (with the help of a couple of recipes from Holkham Estate’s Nik Hare) 20 The news spread – catch up on the latest openings, products and gossip 64 Huw Sayer tells us all about a Norfolkbased food and drink network - and urges us to join!
FEATURES
23 Weddings special: we look at traditional and more modern catering options at various venues in and around Norfolk
REVIEWS
33 Sarah Hardy gets into the spirit of the new Kindreds in Wymondham 36 It’s meals on wheels for Tony Mallion as he and his wife enjoy dinner on the Poppy Line 70 Our regular look at the latest cook books on sale, including one from Norfolk
INTERVIEWS
30 He is the host with the most: Fred Sirieix charms us all 44 The Feed, the tasty trading arm of Norwich LEAP, is coming on leaps and bounds when it comes to event-catering. Emma Outten meets head chef Andy Baker 48 We chat to Diana Brocklebank Scott, owner of Creake Abbey in north Norfolk, on her award winning farmers’ markets
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05 REGULARS
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39 Gadgets and gizmos – there’s nothing fishy about these products 55 Artisan producer – Peter Jackson from West Norfolk is breeding pigs so rare that they are not even on the rare breeds list 56 Shop front - the food hall beyond compare at Bakers & Larners of Holt 60 Meet the chef – this month we catch up with Nigel Ramsbottom, Head Chef at Delia’s Restaurant and Bar at Carrow Road 90 James Sawrey-Cookson, of the Last Wine Bar in Norwich, explains exactly why they’re still going strong after 26 years
72 Andy Newman says it’s all about the receptacle when it comes to drinking wine! 74 Dawn Leeder, co-organiser of Norwich City of Ale, looks forward to next month’s event
RECIPES
38 Dedicated foodie Sarah Ruffhead takes us on her foodie journey 51 Charlotte Gurney is a very modern farmer’s wife 54 Artisan baker Steven Winter tells us about creating a loaf made wholly from Norfolk ingredients
40 Sara Matthews of Your Gluten Freedom offers up a fish supper, complete with mushy peas 63 Old-fashioned rhubarb trifle courtesy of the one and only Delia, to be cooked by head chef at Carrow Road, Nigel Ramsbottom 65 Get into the mood for Rio this summer with our Brasilian recipes 82 Reader John Halliday shares his favourite tomato and anchovy tart recipe
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56 THE TEAM
Sarah Hardy, Editor sarah@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Emma Outten, Deputy Editor emma@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk Scott Nicholson, Designer studio@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk
TRAVEL
76 Mark Nicholls tucks into some very tasty Cretan dishes on his latest trip to Greece 83 Read all about an overnight stay at the Loddon Swan, a charming former coaching inn right at the heart of the the village
COLUMNISTS
COMPETITIONS
32 Win a night away at The Grove in Cromer!
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Rachael Young & Helen Allman, Account Managers advertising@feastnorfolkmagazine.co.uk
CONTRIBUTORS
Andy Newman, Mark Nicholls, James Sawrey-Cookson, Huw Sayer, Sara Matthews, Ellen Mary, Tony Mallion, Sarah Ruffhead, Dawn Leeder, Sarah Juggins, Steve Winter, Charlotte Gurney, Steve Hearnden
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FEAST NORFOLK MAGAZINE is published by Feast (Eastern) Limited - 21 Market Place, Dereham, Norfolk NR19 2AX
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MICROPRESS, Fountain Way, Reydon Business Park, Reydon, Suffolk, 1P18 6DH
TEA PARTY
Are you one of the lucky ones celebrating The Queen’s 90th birthday on April 21 in North Norfolk? Everyone living in the district who was born in 1930 or earlier has been invited to a special royal tea party to be hosted by Cllr Annie Claussen-Reynolds, Chairman of North Norfolk District Council at Swanton Novers Village Hall. Visit www.north-norfolk.gov.uk
AFTERNOON TEA
Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea of sandwiches, scones, cakes and pastries, including a talk from author Peter Bance on Duleep Singh, the last Maharajah of the Sikh Empire, and his time at Elveden, on April 15. Peter will be signing copies of his book, ‘Sovereign, Squire and Rebel: Maharajah Duleep Singh’, at the event on the Elveden Estate. Visit www.elvedeninn.com
CHOCOLAT AUTHOR
Chocolat author Joanne Harris with be in conversation with Henry Sutton in Lecture Theatre 1 at the UEA Spring Literary Festival on April 27. She secured global recognition with Chocolat in 1999 (later made into an Oscar-nominated movie starring Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp), and two further novels formed the Lansquenet trilogy (Lollipop Shoes, Peaches for Monsieur le Curé). Her latest novel is call Different Class. Visit www.eventbrite.co.uk
BIG CUPPA
The Big C’s favourite fundraising event, The Big Cuppa, returns throughout April, so pop the kettle on, get the biscuits out, and have a cuppa to help the charity celebrate 35 years of improving lives and helping those affected by cancer in Norfolk and Waveney. For more details and to get your fundraising pack call 01603 619900 or email enquiries@big-c.co.uk. Visit www.big-c.co.uk
STREET FOOD
Feast on the Street, a collective set up by a group of street food traders in Norwich, takes place at The Forum on April 7 and 21. Forget that old boring lunch box and try some new tastes as they present some regular street food traders (and a few new ones) to tantalise your taste buds. Visit www. feastonthestreet.co.uk
DIARY D A T E S
Emma Outten drip-feeds the best food and drink events for the month!
What's On
SPRING FLING
The county’s biggest Easter family event, the Norfolk Spring Fling, takes place on April 5. Aimed at children aged between four to eleven years, but catering for grown-ups too, it offers visitors the chance to learn about food and farming, and the important link between the countryside and what appears on their plates. Visit www.springfling.rnaa.org.uk
BEAUTY & BUBBLES
Imagine Spa at Blofield Heath is teaming up with Adnams at the Adnams shop in Norwich on April 22 to offer a Beauty & Bubbles evening, consisting of tastings, food, and therapists from the Spa offering mini treatments such as nail painting and mini massage. The fun night will take place in the private party area. Visit www.imaginespa.co.uk
JAZZ IT UP
Enjoy an entertaining evening with great music acts in the Garden Room of The Hoste on April 8. The first of this year’s The Hoste of Jazz events will feature Jivin' Miss Daisy, with Simon Thorpe leading his jive and classic pop six-piece premium swing band with dancing for discerning Hepcats and Hepkittens. Visit www.thehoste.com
PATRON'S DINNER
Norfolk Food & Drink are holding a Patrons’ Dinner at Langley Abbey on April 29. Enjoy canapés from Charlie's Norfolk Food Heroes, a starter from Vanessa Scott, fish course from Chris Coubrough, main course from Nick Mills and his team from Brasted's and dessert from Richard Hughes. Visit www.norfolkfoodanddrink.com
SUNDAY LUNCH SPECIAL
Enjoy a Sunday Lunch Special until April 24 at Barnham Broom, when a three course Sunday lunch for two people and a glass of wine each for £35 will be served in the award winning Brasserie. Visit www.barnham-broom.co.uk
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DAWN CHORUS & CROISSANTS
Enjoy the dawn chorus at Fairhaven Woodland and Water Garden, on April 9, when a special guided boat trip round Fairhaven’s private broad will get you close to the garden’s wildlife. Tea, coffee and croissants in the award-winning eco-tearoom will be included after the trip (plus there’s an optional upgrade to a full English breakfast). Visit www. fairhavengarden.co.uk
FAMILY FUN
Kids can bottle feed kid goats and more at Fielding Cottage’s fun-filled family day out on April 9 and 10. You will also find Dann’s ice-cream, Norfolk Brewhouse beer tent, Algy’s Popcorn wok, coffee and cakes, and a barbecue at the event near Honingham, between Norwich and Dereham. Visit www.fieldingcottage.co.uk
TOP CRUNCH
Congratulations to Fairfields Farm from Colchester, Essex, who won the Producer of the Year 2016 award from the East of England Co-Op, beating off 200 other entries. Robert and Laura Strathern plant, grow, harvest, cook and bag their own crisps, with delicious flavours including sour cream and onion, and sea salt and Aspall Cyder!
REFURBISHED AND REFRESHED
Briarfields Hotel in Titchwell has a whole new look – we are really liking the look of the new central bar with log burner and the new bi-fold doors in the restaurant area. And they are even creating a new room at the hotel – aren’t they clever? Visit www.briarfieldshotelnorfolk. co.uk
NEW CAFE OPENING
Another place we have got our eye on happens to be Departure Lounge Norwich on Prince of Wales Road. The new family run coffee lounge serves Fairtrade coffee and tea, ciabattas with fresh ingredients and award-winning cakes. Find them on Facebook.
THE RURAL OSCARS BRIARFIELDS
NEWS
ROUND-UP
Foodie friends Jason Borthwick of Dalegate Market in Burnham Deepdale, and Crawford White, of G F White Butchers in Aylsham, are nervously awaiting the results of the Countryside Alliance Awards, otherwise known as The Rural Oscars. The finalists in the Tourism Enterprise and Butcher category, respectively, will find out if they’ve won on April 27, at a lunch at the House of Lords. Fingers crossed! Visit www.dalegatemarket.co.uk and www. whitesbutchers.co.uk
PRE-SHOW SUPPERS
This really is the place to find out the best titbits of news and gossip in Norfolk and beyond, says Emma Outten
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Show-goers at Sheringham Little Theatre are savouring meals as well as stage and screen performances at the seaside venue as pre-show suppers have been added to the all-year-round programme at the charity-run community arts centre. Chef Norman Pottle will be creating the suppers, available from April 2 when the curtain goes up on a community youth production of Evita. Visit www.sheringhamlittletheatre.com
News & Gossip
BEST SNACKS BAR NONE
Joint Norwich and London venture, Cleaver & Keg, are bringing educated beer connoisseurs across the country a range of hand-crafted premium bar snacks. Created by two old school friends Danny Searle (publican of The Reindeer in Norwich) and Sean Cannon, expect 100 per cent British meat that is salt cured and air-dried: look out for Chorizo Slices; Salami Slices; Strips O’Beef; and Hot Strips O’Beef. Visit www.cleaverandkeg.com
NEW FESTIVAL DATES
ELLE GILLARD PHOTOGRAPHY
We’re very excited about INVINITI, a new restaurant bar and delicatessen just opened in Tombland, Norwich, after meeting general manager Nicole Cole at a recent Norwich Business Women’s Network lunch! And we know the wine will be on the money as wine merchant Poppy Seymour will be overseeing that side of things! Good luck ladies! Visit www.inviniti.co.uk
PUB OF THE YEAR
Congratulations to the Fat Cat Brewery Tap on Lawson Road in Norwich, which has been voted as best pub in the city by members of the Norwich and Norfolk branch of CAMRA as well as the Branch’s overall Pub of the Year. Plus the White Horse in Neatishead was named Rural Pub of the Year. Cheers to both! Visit www.fatcattap.co.uk and www. thewhitehorseinnneatishead.com
PICTURE BY
NEW RESTAURANT OPENING
The 2016 Norwich Food & Drink Festival will take place in June instead of September this year. For one day only, on June 19, the event will see the closure of St Peter’s Street in front of City Hall, which will be host to Battle of the Bangers, and The Forum will be transformed into a celebration of Norfolk Food & Drink, with an Adnams beer garden, and much more. Visit www.norfolkfoodfestival.co.uk
SAY CHEESE
Ferndale Farm Norfolk Cheeses are relaunching their very own Norfolk Tawny cheese this month - after more than 10 years. Cheesemaker Arthur Betts says: ‘We weren't able to continue it because Norfolk Dapple was selling so well that we had to concentrate on producing more and more of it. Now there are more of us working here, we can bring back this excellent semi-soft cheese!’ Visit www.ferndalefarmnorfolkcheeses. co.uk
FERNDALE FARM NORFOLK CHEESES
A LA CARTE CAFE
Changes are afoot at The Modern Life Café at the Sainsbury Centre as they will also be offering an ‘a la carte’ menu from April 1. The team, including relatively new chef Matt Durrant (who was at Weston Park) and super new restaurant manager, Agata Guziejko, have worked with none other than Lady Carla Carlisle from Wyken Vineyards on this, so it sounds promising! Visit www.scva.ac.uk
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Arriving in time for the Rio Olym pics, Carnival! ha the summer cove s red, offering spicy barbecue dishes delicious finger , food and refresh ingly exotic cock as well as tips on tails, dancing the sam ba and pointers visiting the vibran on t city itself. This little book, from the founde rs of the Cabana restaurant chain , packs quite a pu nch with more th 60 recipes using an seafood, coconu ts, bananas and ch to help you create illies your own street party. It’s all very back, fun food so laid why not let a little bit of that Latin spirit enter your soul? And let’s just ho pe the likes of Je ssica Ennis-Hill, Farah, Laura Trot Mo t and co bring ho me the gold! Here are a few re cipes to get you in the party moo Brasilian style, of dcourse. And yes, that is Brasil with the traditional Po an s, rtuguese spellin g of the country .
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B R A S I L
COCO
CaBaNa Drink this and you’ll be instantly transported to Copacabana beach. The combination of rum, cachaça, strawberries and coconut can’t help but give you that holiday feeling, even if you’re in rainy England in July
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INGREDIENTS 75ml cachaça; 75ml Malibu; 50ml coconut cream; 50ml lemon juice; 50ml simple sugar syrup; 90ml pineapple juice; 180ml coconut water; 75ml strawberry purée; ice cubes; 1 lemon, sliced; 1 orange, sliced
METHOD Pour all the ingredients except the orange and lemon slices into a large jug and stir well. Fill with ice and stir again. Top with lemon and orange slices
CaіPіRiNHa ‘BeEr CaN’ CHіCKEN
In Brasil, roast chicken is sometimes known as ‘television chicken’ (frango de televisão) because the family dog can often be found with its head pressed to the oven, watching it cook. Our television chicken uses the flavours of a caipirinha and a can cooking method to create a succulent, sweet and sticky roast that can be cooked on the barbecue or in the oven. The can means that the chicken steams from the inside out, making the meat extra juicy and tender
Serves Four
INGREDIENTS 1 medium chicken (about 1.5– 1.8kg); olive oil, for drizzling; 5 sage leaves, finely chopped; 2 tbsp cachaça; 1 tbsp soft brown sugar; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the steam marinade Juice of 2 large limes; 2 tbsp soft brown sugar; 3 tbsp cachaça; 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed; ½ tsp sea salt; 2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil; 5–6 large sage leaves, finely chopped METHOD Light the barbecue (preferably one with a lid), and let the flames die down before starting to cook, or preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/ Gas mark 6. (If using charcoal, put most of the hot coals around the edges so there is indirect but even heat in the middle. If using a gas barbecue, set it to
medium). Remove and discard the giblets and any excess fat in the cavity of the chicken. Rub it with a little olive oil, then rub it inside and outside with salt, pepper and chopped sage. Put all the ingredients for the steam marinade in a jug and stir to dissolve the sugar. Take an empty can and peel off any labels. Wash it out well, then pour in the marinade ingredients. Wrap the outside of a small heavy-based roasting tin with kitchen foil, then place the can in the middle. Sit the chicken on the can so that the top of it enters the cavity and the bird is upright. Spread out the legs to support the bird’s weight. Take a squeezed lime half and pop it into the neck of the chicken to make a plug, or cover the neck cavity with foil to prevent the steam escaping while it cooks. Roast for 45–55 minutes, until the chicken is almost cooked. Mix the remaining cachaça and sugar and carefully brush it over the chicken. Cook for 10–15 minutes, until golden and the juices run clear. Remove and let rest for 10–15 minutes. Carefully transfer to a serving plate, carve and serve it drizzled with the marinade, which will have reduced to a thick and tasty sauce.
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CHiMiCHURRi MONKFiSH Cooking fish on a barbecue can be tricky because it can easily flake and fall apart, but monkfish is firm enough to withstand the heat. You can use monkfish cheeks as we’ve done here, which are succulent and delicious, or ask your fishmonger for monkfish tails to grill whole and slice. The herby chimichurri marinade works brilliantly with it INGREDIENTS 12 monkfish cheeks, about 500g in total (or use monkfish tails); 4 tbsp Chimichurri Marinade; sea salt and freshly ground black pepper METHOD Trim off any tough outer membrane from the monkfish, then put it in a bowl and toss with the marinade until evenly coated. Cover with clingfilm and chill for at least 4 hours. Light the barbecue and let the flames die down before starting to cook. If cooking indoors, preheat the grill to high and place the grill rack at the highest level. Alternatively, you could also pan-fry the fish over a medium heat. Thread the monkfish on to 4 metal skewers and season lightly with salt and pepper. Barbecue or grill the skewers for 2–3 minutes on each side. The fish should be opaque and feel just firm when lightly pressed. Allow to rest for about 5 minutes before serving.
CHiMiCHURRi MARiNADE Chimichurri is a fresh herb marinade that’s Argentinian in origin, but has been adopted by Brasilian churrascarias (barbecue restaurants) as a marinade for steak and fish. It also works well with vegetables. We use it with Chimichurri Monkfish, as above, and you can also serve it as a dipping sauce with slices of fresh sourdough bread INGREDIENTS 30g flat-leaf parsley; 5 large garlic cloves; 1 tsp dried oregano; 150ml light olive or sunflower oil; ½ tsp dried chilli flake; 35ml red wine vinegar; 1 tsp sea salt; 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper METHOD Bring a small pan of water to the boil and have a bowl of iced water ready. Blanch the parsley for 1 minute, then drain it immediately and plunge it into the icy water. Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper. Finely chop the parsley and garlic and place it in a bowl or a clean jar with lid. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir well. Alternatively, blend the blanched parsley with the rest of the ingredients in a food processor. Use immediately, or refrigerate in a sealed container and use within 3–4 days.
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