CHIC Eats

Up next, the Aubergine Salad makes an interesting appearance encased in a domed rye flour cracker decorated with daubs of goat cheese mousse, sun-dried tomatoes and mint leaves. General Manager Enrico gleefully demolishes the dome at the table to expose the goodness below. The aubergine caviar, so familiar in this part of the world, smokily roasted and mixed with olive oil and the oh-so-important aromatics that impart its distinctive flavour, is accompanied by a delicious mix of edamame, green beans, sugar snaps, goat cheese crumble and sesame dressing. It would not be an exaggeration to say that the freshness and bursting flavours of the vegetables is one of the things that puts Masso in a class enjoyed by just a few restaurants on the island. Executive Chef Steeven Gilles informs us that the vegetables are all imported from Europe and, in fact, virtually all his ingredients are sourced overseas to ensure that outstanding quality.

The one notable exception is a dish that is a complete revelation to both myself and my dining companion – an avowed foodie. It’s Creamy Burrata with marinated cherry tomatoes, tomato sorbet and basil oil. And the big difference here is that this is actually Bahraini burrata, made in the Kingdom from a herd farmed in Zallaq. I have to confess that I didn’t know this deliciousness even existed. Ridiculously creamy with a light, buttery flavour, the outside has a delicate firmness while the inside veritably oozes and, without wishing to offend, my dining companion describes it as ‘an almost religious experience’. I don’t think I need to say more!

Soon Enrico is back at our table with an enormous baked seabass which smells absolutely divine. Ever the showman, he makes a performance of rolling back the skin in one single flourish and then expertly debones it at the table before serving us the delicate flesh. Accompanied by an exceptional sauce of basil, saffron, rocket and butter, I have seldom eaten something so simple and at the same time so deeply satisfying. The fish is cooked to perfection, the flesh firm but yielding and the sauce is so expertly judged that there is absolutely no need for further seasoning, which for me is very unusual.

Alongside the fish, we are served Truffle and Mushroom Tortellini and I am in a small corner of heaven as I sample the al dente pasta drenched in a delicate mushroom cream and basil oil. If ever two flavours were the perfect combination, these are it. The truffle lends the dish a very considered sense of luxury and I am sorry that I do not have space for more than a few of these delicious small parcels – each a complete gastronomic journey in itself. We are spoilt for choice on the desserts and opt to share the one dish that, if it’s on the menu, is always my first choice. Crème Brulee is one of those concoctions that, alone, can test the calibre of the cook. Get it wrong and the cream separates but get it right and it is oh so very, very good. Unsurprisingly, as with absolutely everything else we have eaten this evening, Chef Paul Gardin, Masso Executive Pastry Chef's version of this dish is spot on. The vanilla subtle but making its presence felt, the burnt sugar topping crunchy and sweet. Yes, we are already full and planning just a spoonful each… famous last words.

The food at Masso silenced two women who had not seen each other in months. A higher accolade, I cannot give. I strongly recommend that you try it for yourself.

For more information and to make a reservation, please call Masso on 1772 1061.

@massorestaurant