A CULINARY ODYSSEY

It’s incredible to discover that in a city crammed with construction, an entire island’s-worth of hotel could spring up without me realising it, but it’s true. The St. Regis Marsa Arabia Island, The Pearl-Qatar shines like a pearl at the centre of Porto Arabia. Yet, despite living just a couple of miles away, it’s the first time I’ve driven over the fairytale bridge to appreciate it in all its majesty. It’s rather splendid.

Manos Doha is a traditional Greek fish taverna that perches on the southern edge of the palm-fringed island. Bougainvillea, olive trees and tables for cooler days and nights dot the terrace. There’s an unbeatable view from here – sparkling water, yachts and an indigo-hued West Bay in the distance.

Inside, there are clusters of green-and-white-checked tables and traditional wood and raffia chairs – and squashy seats too! – with columns here and there. The ceiling, I love. A carpet of greenery and flowers with a swathe of Aegean blue – if this doesn’t make you feel as if you just stepped onto a Greek island, nothing will. Michalis, a super-friendly manager, greets us as if we’re old friends. He’s from Rhodes, while Apostolis, our waiter, is from Athens. He brings a dish of tapenade, warm rolls and isosceles triangles of pitta bread glistening with olive oil. We can pick a set menu, then sit back and relax, he says. Or we can go à la carte. There are so many things that we’d like to try that we opt for the latter. The. Food. Is. Awesome.

I just want to get that out there. It’s full of flavour, perfectly prepared and 100% Greek. All of it.

The Greek Salad is the best I’ve ever eaten. Honestly. Tomatoes, cucumber, red onions and black olives are tumbled in olive oil and oregano with a rectangle of fabulously unsalty feta on top and balanced on that there are capers. The Tzatziki is smooth, silky and garlicky, with the right amount of zing. The Taramasalata is traditional with a twist – pale coral and decorated with a circle of the tiniest mussels. I’m delighted to discover Tirokeftari – a blend of yoghurt, mayonnaise and spicy cheese, with a drizzle of chilli oil. It gives a proper kick. It’s my new favourite dip. I could eat it until the middle of next week.

The Feta Saganaki with honey and sesame is so good, it deserves its own paragraph. Imagine another rectangle of that fabulous feta, coated with sesame seeds, fried and finally drizzled with honey. It’s sweet and savoury and crunchy and gooey in the middle. Blimey.

Now for the seafood!

Manos has the most amazing charcoal grill, which gives anything cooked upon it a uniquely smoky flavour. I’ve never tasted anything like the Sundried Grilled Octopus. The cuttlefish – best enjoyed when drizzled with lemon – is tender and tasty.

The Popcorn Baby Shrimps – a speciality of Symi Island – are superb. Crunchy and moreish, they’re a wonderful nod to the very first Manos restaurant, on Symi. Do try them. And, while you’re at it, give the Mussels Saganaki in Mustard Sauce a go. They’re a piquant Greek alternative to moules marinière.

There’s a reason that all the seafood tastes so fresh at Manos. It is fresh. Pop to the back of their restaurant to see the Fish Market – or paradise, as Michalis fondly calls it. Here, a range of Mediterranean fish – flown in from Greece, especially for the restaurant, sits on ice. And it’s impossible for the lobster and oysters in the restaurant’s tanks to be any fresher. We choose seabass – there’s also red snapper and sea bream today – and it’s baked for us, just like that.

Greek dessert of the day is a sundae of champions – homemade vanilla and rose ice creams, with nuggets of syrupy quince, topped off with a biscuity leaf. An eye-opening Greek coffee is the perfect full stop to a long, leisurely, sun-soaked lunch. Michalis tells us that evenings at Manos are an experience we really won’t want to miss either. At 8pm every night, there’s a live band, traditional Greek dancing, followed by a DJ. Even better, as the sign on the table says, plate smashing is also on the menu. Just give your order to the waiter to join in the fun. We had such a great time at Manos. Rarely am I so blown away by such genuine warmth and hospitality. Manos has both, in spades. As for their food? It’s SMASHING. ✤