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THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE
BaselWorld 2010
Strategies Movements Brands Models
EUROPE N° 300 2/ 2010 APRIL/MAY CH F 2 0 / € 1 5 / U S $ 2 0
EUROPE EDITION All Europe - EEC, Central & Eastern Europe, Russia
N° 300 2 /2010 April / May
CH F 2 0 / € 1 5 / U S $ 2 0
2010 BaselWorld
europa star
EDITORIAL 1
Long live horolodiversity! R Pierre M. Maillard Editor-in-Chief It is said that the biodiversity of our planet is endangered. And this is most certainly true. The ‘Red List’ of the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) estimates that, as of the end of 2009, some 21 per cent of all known mammals, 30 per cent of all amphibians, 28 per cent of all reptiles, 37 per cent of freshwater fish, 70 per cent of all plants (yes, 70 per cent!), and 35 per cent of known invertebrates were threatened with extinction. This list comprises several classifications, listing species that are ‘Extinct’, ‘Extinct in the Wild’, ‘Critically Endangered’, ‘Endangered’, ‘Vulnerable’, ‘Near Threatened’, ‘Least Concern’, ‘Data Deficient’, and ‘Not Evaluated’. As Simon Stuart, President of the IUCN stated with humour that was as macabre as it was involuntary, “Many species are in a bad position, but it is possible that the actual situation is much worse than it seems.” Well, I don’t know if we can compare the biodiversity conditions of our world with the horolodiversity at BaselWorld, but I thought it might be amusing (for just a little fun) to categorize the some 2,000 brands exhibiting at BaselWorld (watches and jewellery combined) according to the criteria of the IUCN’s famous Red List, especially now in this period of crisis (or post-crisis for the optimists, continuing crisis for the realists, or pre-crisis for the pessimists).
Not Evaluated? Let’s put in this category the brands belonging to the large publicly-traded groups where no statistics are provided on a brand by brand basis, as well as those that provide no data at all, such as Rolex-type ‘Foundations’. How can we precisely evaluate such and such brand inside an indistinct conglomerate when it is impossible to take inventory? Data Deficient? Let’s just say that this category applies to just about everyone. Our study makes no claims of being ‘scientific’. Least Concern? What does this really mean? That we are really not too worried about them, or that we don’t really care about them after all? Objectively, we can say that this category is a catch-all. But, if it includes brands that apparently present no cause for concern, we might place a Patek Philippe here, for example. But if it includes brands that we don’t really care about, well, allow me to remain rather discreet in this matter. Near Threatened? Doesn’t this seem like it would be the largest category of the list, even though ‘near threatened’ is not the same as ‘threatened?’ At least ‘near’ leaves a bit of hope. Vulnerable? Hmm, they who are not vulnerable, raise your hand! Endangered? Ah yes, for sure there are a few out there. They are already being tracked by the smell of their blood.
Critically Endangered? This is even more serious. But, in my humble opinion, it will be necessary to wait until the end of the big show in order to establish a precise list. So, we will wait and see. Extinct in the Wild? This category continues to grow. All those brands that pretended to be ‘wild’ were quickly tamed by the crisis. They wanted to prowl in the jungle but now they have quietly returned to order. Extinct? Happily, this list is not as long as we might have feared. In fact, for every dozen that become extinct, how many new ones will come to fill their place? I feel, however, that we cannot go too far with this type of classification. Therefore, let’s propose another one in order to better judge the horolodiversity at BaselWorld. Why not look at the watches on the wrists and the jewellery around the necks of the inhabitants of this BaselJungle? The result? Yes, we can confirm that there are still at least 2,000 living species out there. Nothing is lost.
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6 CONTENTS europa star
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THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE
N° 300 2/2010 APRIL/MAY
1
EDITORIAL Long live Horolodiversity!
10
COVER STORY Patek Philippe - the birth of a classic
17
RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE Shuffling the cards
30 34 38 40 44 46 58 62 64 66 68
NEW STRATEGIES Strategic changes at Bulgari Corum, increasing the desire Zenith returns to the workbench TechnoMarine, the facelift before the transplant Harry Winston’s Project Z6 Hautlence rebuilds and retools Maurice Lacroix returns to the basics Raymond Weil - The American dream New steps in the renaissance of Vulcain Ernest Borel is moving and shaking Ventura returns to life
70 72 74 76 78
NEW MOVEMENTS The Chanel J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse: a surprising technique at the service of design First collections by Pequignet to be equipped with the Calibre Royal The ARM09 by Armin Strom, the brand’s first in-house movement The remarkable demands of Vincent Bérard Omega’s watchmaking central
80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 97
BRAND NEWS TAG Heuer celebrates 150 years, introduces the 1887 chronograph and the Silverstone Bertolucci - romance for the girls, sport for the boys Hublot is a hive of activity Eterna and Porsche Design at BaselWorld Carl F. Bucherer – More Patravi EvoTec models and Smart SimPlexity defined Century – A new campaign, the new men’s Elegance collection and much more Armaan Swiss Diamond Watches – the right time at the wrong time Dior’s Christal Mystérieuse gets the feminine touch LOCMAN, Watchmaking away from it all Fundamentally Rado
100 102 104 108
NEW MODELS Longines flying high Bell & Ross on the radar screen Oris’s TT3 is back! Breitling goes black
CALIBRE CH 29-535 PS by Patek Philippe 18-carat rose gold 29.60mm timepiece equipped with Patek Philippe’s new 7071R manually wound, column-wheel, chronograph movement, designed and manufactured entirely in-house. 30-minute counter between 3 and 4 o’clock, central chronograph hand, seconds sub dial between 8 and 9 o’clock and 65-hour power reserve. Two dial colours in silvered or black opaline with ‘flame’ guilloché, sapphire crystals front and back, black alligator strap and water resistant to 30 metres. The Calibre CH 29-535 PS is certified with the Patek Philippe Seal.
Patek Philippe 141 Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire P.O. Box 2654 1211 Geneva 2 Switzerland Tel: +41 22 884 20 20 Fax: +41 22 884 20 40 www.patek.com
A
NEW
ICONIC
TIMEPIECE
IS
B A S E LWO R L D, B Y A P P O I N T M E N T O N LY, + 4 1 2 2 7 0 6 1 9 6 0
BORN
8 CONTENTS europa star
110 112 114 116 118 120 121 126 127 128 130 132 134 136 138 140
Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500 Black Ice in other colours Armand Nicolet gets sporty for 2010 Ernst Benz limited editions Frédérique Constant’s junior collection Hamilton reinforces its reputation Perrelet turns heads Swarovski sparkles in 2010 A daring deviation for IceLink Tissot is hoisting its sails Philip Stein gets fruity Mondaine goes mechanical Luminox dives deep Gucci goes classic Beastie Boys for Doctors without Borders and Nixon Reactor continues its quest Furtive: Changing faces
141 142
GALLERY Aerowatch, Atlantic, Camel Active, Davidoff, Gc, a. b. Art, Doxa, Emile Chouriet, Jacob Jensen, Movado
144
WORLDWATCHWEB WorldWatchReport 2010 – All eyes on BRIC
148
RETAILER’S CORNER Retailer innovations
156
EDITORIAL AND ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
160
LAKJN@LARGE Anyone for a sandwich? URWERK SPECIAL UR-103 The UR-103 is dead, long live URWERK To my knowledge, there is no other example of a watch brand that, after seven successful years, decides unilaterally to stop a collection that has marked the history of this several-hun dred-year old art form. But that is what happened at URWERK. The brand’s famous UR-103 collection will be reduced to embers at BaselWorld this year, and then it will finally go out. So long, UR-103. SPECIAL CELSIUS X VI II Celsius X VI II – Combining Haute Horlogerie and Mobile Telephony Today, an ambitious young company has envisioned a totally mechanized cellphone. Is this merely a dream? A mechanical utopia? No, not at all. ADVERTISERS’ SPOTLIGHTS
60 105 106 122 124
Milus Tirion Répétition Minute Trirétrograde Alexander Shorokhoff - combining German quality with Russian soul Seiko Mira - A star is born Orient celebrates its 60th anniversary
Europa Star 25 Route des Acacias P.O. Box 1355 CH-1211 Geneva 26 Switzerland Tel +41 (0)22 307 78 37 Fax +41 (0)22 300 37 48 www.europastar.com © 2010 EUROPA STAR Audited REMP 2009 The statements and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star.
EL PRIMERO STRIKING 10th Swiss manufactured high frequency chronograph (patent N° ep 1 499 929 b1)
ZENITH, OBSESSION WITH PRECISION SINCE 1865 www.zenith-watches.com
10 COVER STORY europa star
The birth of a classic RPierre Maillard
T
To all watch aficionados and admirers of Patek Philippe, this is a reference you will want to remember: Chronograph Ref. 5170J. It is the ultimate chronograph from the Geneva manufacture, equipped with the very recent movement, the Calibre CH 29-535 PS, totally developed and produced in-house by Patek Philippe. A manual-winding, column-wheel chronograph, this new reference replaces the very famous chronograph Ref. 5070, based on a Lémania calibre, and well known to all collectors.
dynamic and well balanced with its very characteristic single counter regrouping the chronograph’s hour and minute counters. This same movement also equipped, with its single counter, but without the Annual Calendar, the Nautilus chronograph.
The latest in a prestigious line
Already a grand classic
With this new and remarkable creation, Patek Philippe completes the collection of its own chronographs, a collection that was started in 2005 with the introduction of the thinnest (5.25 mm) flyback manual chronograph movement ever made. It was also the first chronograph wristwatch entirely designed, developed and fabricated in-house. Produced in the traditional manner in a limited quantity in the haute horlogerie ateliers at Patek Philippe, this very prestigious movement—with its two column wheels, two push-pieces, the possibility to store reference times, as well as its many other technical and aesthetic features—created a sensation from its first introduction in a series of ten pieces in an Officer style platinum case, the already famous Reference 5959P. This offer was expanded in 2006 with the launch of the Reference 5960P, the first automatic chronograph wholly designed, developed and realized by the manufacture. With the addition of the famous patented Annual Calendar mechanism, this new automatic column-wheel chronograph included a flyback function and indicators for power reserve and day/night. With a totally original construction, it also featured a dial that was elegant,
The new Chronograph Ref. 5170J has everything for it to become a grand classic. With very pure and clean lines, devoid of additional complications in order to ensure absolute readability, this new chronograph comes in an 18 carat yellow gold case of harmonious proportions (39-mm diameter, 10.9-mm thickness, and 21 mm between the horns), and a design that is evocative of the decade from 1940 to 1950. This classic look is strengthened even more by a silvered opaline dial, decorated with ‘railroad’ type minute indexes along its edge, as well as a pulse metre graduated for 15 pulsations. Six classic applied indexes and two Roman numerals (XII and VI) in 18 carat yellow gold are placed around the dial. The delicate hour and minute ‘baton’ hands are also in 18 carat yellow gold, while the technical aspects of this chronograph are emphasized by a black oxidized ‘arrow’ chronograph hand, with a counterweight in the centre of the dial. Against this plain background are two large white auxiliary dials with a blued motif, the small seconds at 9 o’clock with its 18 carat ‘baton’ hand and an instantaneous jumping 30-minute counter with a ‘baton’ hand in black nickel at 3 o’clock.
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COVER STORY 11
12 COVER STORY europa star
The art of the chronograph This grand classic with a clear design is the perfect reflection of the movement, Calibre CH 29-535 PS, that ticks away under the dial. Created at the end of 2009, this movement already equips the very recent and acclaimed Ladies First Chronograph. As Europa Star has already described (see issue 6/09), this movement may seem ultra-classic but, under this traditional appearance, it includes six new patents. While these new patents are not revolutionizing the sector, they are actually doing more, in a certain way, by notably improving the substance of timekeeping and by directly contributing to a deeper understanding of the art of the chronograph. On paper, this movement has, in fact, all the attributes of watchmaking purism applied to the chronograph: column wheel with a polished cap; S-shaped toothed-clutch lever system; elegant and refined chronograph gear bridge; minute counter gear bridge; large four-spoke Gyromax balance with four poising weights vibrating at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour and Breguet balance spring. The ensemble comprises 269 elements, all harmoniously placed in an extremely small space (29.60-mm diameter and 5.35-mm height). There have also been notable improvements in terms of energy transmission, reduction of friction, increases in precision and reduction in vibrations or unevenness of the hand movements—all this while offering greater operational reliability as well as providing watchmakers easier access to its various organs in case adjustments are needed.
Six patents One of these patents provides for an improved penetration adjustment between the clutch and the chronograph wheel thanks to a large ‘eccentric cap’ placed directly on the column wheel. Another patent involves improved synchronization between the clutch lever and
the blocking lever, thanks to a finger piece that directly synchronizes both organs. In this way, the watchmaker only has to adjust one point instead of two. This system also eliminates jumps of the chronograph hand when time measurements are started and stopped. A patented system also involves a self-setting return to zero, thus making it unnecessary for the watchmaker to mechanically adjust the minute hammer function. Still yet another patented advance provides separate jewelled bearings for both the second and minute hammers that pivot on the same axis, each with its own spring. This also improves setting. Last but not least, the tooth profile of the chronograph mechanism has been optimized in order to increase the efficiency of energy transmission and reduce friction and wear and tear on the movement, while also eliminating the risk of hand jump in either direction when starting a measurement. In addition, this new calibre is, unlike its predecessor, equipped with a sophisticated and instantaneous 30-minute counter. This counter, on which the small minute hand jumps from one minute to the next in a fraction of a second, ensures both great working precision and easier reading. Among the first to be attributed the Poinçon Patek Philippe (Patek Philippe Hallmark), this movement distinguishes itself with its special artisanal finishing that adds as much to the elegance of its form pieces and traditionally worked bridges as it does to the care given to all the surfaces, which are usually hand-decorated. It is truly a spectacular piece that can be admired from the back as well, through the screw-in transparent case back made of sapphire crystal. To all lovers of beautiful mechanical chronographs, you have reason to rejoice—a classic is born. O For more information related to Patek Philippe click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
europa star
COVER STORY 13
Noemia Mother-of-pearl dial and Stainless steel case with diamonds Crown with midnight blue dome Sapphire crystal www.raymond-weil.com
wolkoff-arnodin.com
A RACING MACHINE ON THE WRIST
CALIBER RM 017 TOURBILLON
Carbon nanoďŹ ber baseplate Speed hand-setting Variable inertia, free sprung balance Fast rotating barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7,5) Function selector Ceramic endstone for the tourbillon cage Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion with central involute proďŹ le
GPdH Asia Best ladies watch 2009
www.richardmille.com
europa star
RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE 17
SHUFFLING THE CARDS RPierre Maillard My, how time passes! And, what a short collective
market par excellence at the end of 2006 when it
memory we have. But, let’s close our eyes and look
reached 13th place for its Swiss watch imports
into the past for a minute. Oh, not too far back. Say,
totalling 322 million Swiss francs. But in 2009,
only three years back. Three years? Only a drop in
the Russian market fell back to 18th place, and
the ocean of watchmaking history and yet. . .
had difficulty even importing 141.8 million Swiss
In April 2007, we began this same column with
francs worth of watches. To cite another example,
this same sort of ‘Retrospective–Perspective’
in 2006, while people were saying that Japan was
article, where we proclaimed (and I quote): “2006:
“strongly raising its head (+10.4%)”, this country’s
What a glorious year! Should we repeat the fig-
figures are down 36.4% in relation to 2007.
ures, being shouted everywhere? Why not, since they are ‘historic’ numbers: Swiss watch exports (custom’s export statistics) officially reached 13.7 billion Swiss francs,
...what a short collective memory we have.
an increase of 10.9% compared to 2005 (which was already up by 11.5% over 2004,
In this comparative table, the only nations that have
itself higher by 9.2% than 2003, thus enjoying three
actually done well are China (+21.3% between
years in a row of double-digit growth, or nearly).”
2007 and 2009), a surprising South Korea (+70.5%),
And when we examine the division of the markets
Australia (+11%), Portugal (+11%), Qatar (+33.3%),
for this same year, 2006, we realize that 2009 saw
and India (+9.4%).
a complete reversal from three years ago. In 2006, we wrote, “Europe is picking up again strongly:
Change in tone
France +21.3%; Germany +21%; Spain +15.6%;
So, three years ago, we triumphantly reported
and Italy comparatively disappointing with an
that the Swiss industry exported a total of 13.7
increase of 5.4% but nonetheless this nation is
billion francs worth of watches for 2006.
still the fourth largest market for Swiss watches.”
Compare this to the value for 2009 when exports
In 2009, it is clear that exports to these markets
totalled the nearly identical sum of 13.2 billion
have all strongly declined. For example, let’s look
francs. Yet this year, the numbers are said to be
at Russia. This nation was considered the rising
low, even “pitiful”, among other remarks. What a
18 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star
change in tone! Obviously, the Swiss industry had
two symbols: the triumph of the
become used to—or even addicted to—a double-
swatCh group and the fall of bnb
digit annual growth rate: +11.5% in 2005, +10.9%
In the current slump, there are some signs that
in 2006, +16,2% in 2007...and then a small slow-
are not wrong and that, in fact, take on a symbolic
down in 2008 with only +6.8%, before crashing
value. This happened with two recent and totally
in 2009 with a decrease of -22.3%.
contradictory events: the fall of BNB, and the good
But in 2007, we already warned of the danger since
fiscal results obtained by the Swatch Group.
we had entitled our Retrospective–Perspective
During these trying times, the Swatch Group fared
article ‘Watchmaking runs the risk of excess’ and
better than most of its competitors. Compared to the overall statistics for the Swiss
The crisis has acted upon watchmaking like the ‘corrector’ that the industry did not want to see.
industry for 2009 (down 22.3%), the group did somewhat better, seeing exports decline by 5.5% at constant exchange rates (down 7.7% taking into account fluctuating exchange rates) on a total turnover of
dared to claim that “many signs tend to demon-
5.421 billion Swiss francs. This figure is similar to
strate more and more clearly that we have prob-
the group’s turnover in 2006 when, for the first
ably reached the peak of this ‘baroque’ trend and
time, the Swatch Group passed the symbolic bar of
that it will gradually ebb, leaving space for a return
5 billion francs. Even better, the group announced
to more classicism and moderation,” affirming that
that the month of December 2009 saw an increase
“to make oneself noticed, it is necessary to be
in watch sales of 28.8% and that January 2010
stronger, larger, more visible, more complex, or
would be “the second best January” in its history.
more original at all cost. It is often sometimes the
How can this performance be explained?
values of watchmaking itself that are lost along the
We can analyze the group, beyond the particular
way and, undoubtedly even more serious, the final
managerial style of the Hayeks, using two essen-
consumers are sometimes ‘scorned,’ those individu-
tial factors: the industrial strength and the diver-
als who purchased high-priced watches that no
sity of the group’s offer. The Swatch Group is the
one can either maintain or repair.”
only group to cover the entire range of timekeep-
Well, we have arrived at just this point—at more
ing—from the very haut de gamme to the most
moderation. Not by choice, but rather by necessi-
economical watch.
ty. The crisis has acted upon watchmaking like the
Nicolas Hayek frequently reproached, and rightly
‘corrector’ that the industry did not want to see.
so, his competition for not investing enough in
europa star
RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE 19
their own industrial tools and for coasting on his group’s supplies while practicing often abusive margins. In 2002, he announced that the Swatch Group would no longer sell movement blanks as of January
Very rare are those brands that invested in the creation of basic movements.
2006, a decision that was later delayed until 2008 after discussions with the Swiss
rise of the average price of Swiss watches, designed
committee for competition, COMCO. This year,
production tools for the top end in order to create
Hayek again insisted that there would be a com-
small series of complicated specialty timekeepers.
plete stop of deliveries to third parties, although
Very rare are those brands that invested in the
the effective date was left unspecified. Only
creation of basic movements. The rapid ascen-
“loyal, serious, and longstanding” clients would
sion of BNB accompanied the move upmarket by
be exempt from this decree.
industry players that found themselves liberated from all inhibitions, looking for ways to distinguish
investments at the top
their brands from all others, notably in the domain
You might not know it, but Nicolas Hayek’s advice
of ‘post-gravitational’ tourbillons.
was, in fact, taken to heart by more people than
In 2008, when the crisis started, the haut de
was thought at the time. A number of watchmak-
gamme sector maintained the illusion, for quite
ers began investing in their own production tools
some time, that it would be spared. But this was
(paradoxically, this year of crisis saw a large num-
not to be. The December 2009 statistics vividly
ber of inaugurations of new production centres,
demonstrated that the most expensive watches,
including, among others, major installations for
especially those in gold, were most responsible
Chopard, Parmigiani, Hublot, Greubel Forsey, and
for the decline in exports. (The overall decline
Armin Strom).
from December 2008 to December 2009 was
At this juncture, the case of BNB is quite instructive.
7.2% in volume, but for gold watches, it was
Most watchmakers invested at the top, we might
down 23.3%, for platinum, down 36.7%, while
say, and not at the base. A few companies, such
bimetallic watches were up 53.4%.)
as Sellita, mostly assembled and customized ETA movement blanks, or set about creating ETA-com-
a two-speed haut de gamme
patible movements, then began developing their
The fall of BNB is not only emblematic of the
own basic movements. On the other hand, a num-
illusion of ‘always more’ but it also reflects the
ber of watch companies, surfing the exponential
dividing line that the crisis has drawn not only on
20 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star
the watch industry as a whole but also at the
group comes to fruition (regulating organs, springs,
heart of the haut de gamme sector. The high-end
gears and hands, glasses and crystals, etc.), although
has been split between superlative and super-
it is still far from being final, then it will only inten-
fluous timekeeping—which has been hit full blast
sify and accelerate this ‘Darwinian’ selection process.
by the tempest—and a watchmaking more rigor-
This will thus give the large integrated groups
ously attached to its historical patrimony—which
(not only the Swatch Group but also Rolex, Patek
has better resisted the storm.
Philippe and in some ways, the Richemont Group
When confronted with crises, all brands are not
brands, whose industrial integration has greatly
equal, far from it, even if they work in comparable
progressed) a definite advance, one that will be very difficult to catch up to for many
...“natural, economic, and Darwinian selection” has just begun.
long years to come.
China, China, China The financial reserves of the large groups have not only allowed them to withstand the tempest
segments of the industry. It is often said that the
and to methodically organize the necessary de-
independents—including all the young brands
stocking of their products, but they have also
engaged in a ‘break-away’ type of watchmaking—
given them the means to start up again when the
were more reactive than the mastodons. Perhaps
storm subsides.
this is sometimes the case but these young Turks
Let’s take the example of China, which everyone
don’t have sufficient ‘war chests’ to see them
looks at greedily, and for good reason. While all
through the bad weather, contrary to the large
other markets were in decline, China registered
groups. From this point of view, 2010 will certainly
a 43.5% increase in Swiss watch imports in
be a pivotal year and, unfortunately, it runs the risk
December 2009, moving to 4th place on the list.
of turning out to be even more ‘ravaging’ than 2009.
This figure does not even include the increase of
Without financial reserves, or because their wings
27.7% registered in Hong Kong, the Swiss watch
have been clipped in mid-flight, the weakest brands
industry’s largest trading partner. We are thus
are at the highest risk, even in a strong recovery.
seeing a mad rush into China.
The elder Hayek describes this risk in terms of a
But there is a problem, and the brands that have
“natural, economic, and Darwinian selection” that
been established in this market for a long time
has just begun. And assuredly, if his decision to cut
understand this difficulty all too well. The access
off all access to component products made by his
to the Chinese market is complex, costly and
22 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star
convoluted, and requires creating partnerships with local companies. China is therefore a market that will automatically favour the large groups, which are the only ones able to set up obscure networks
China may be the next bubble that will expand until it is ready to burst.
necessary for acquiring a real presence in this market, and the only ones able to
to enjoy a very impressive sales network in the
spend the money and the time it takes—often a very
USA, with an incomparable reputation and an
long time—to see a return on their investments.
unequalled price/quality ratio).
The independent brands will only be able to pick up
In reality, the broad North American recession has
a few crumbs in this vast marketplace, and it’s a
resulted in a general shuffling of the cards, and
strong bet that the Chinese ‘Eldorado’ will acceler-
the hands are not yet finished. Paradoxically, how-
ate the general consolidation in the watch industry
ever, new opportunities have been born during the
even more. This in itself is not without risks, of
crisis in this market, since the USA is, and will
which there are two: on one hand, this may be the
remain, the realm of the entrepreneur. The high
next bubble that will expand until it is ready to
quality and affordable mechanical watch has enor-
burst, while on the other hand, China may gradu-
mous growth potential in the American market
ally become both the main export market and the
because, even though the watchmaking culture has
main competitor for the Swiss watch industry.
made notable advances over the last decade, it is still marginal in terms of quantity (on this topic, see
the great ameriCan reservoir
the article in this issue, ‘The American dream’ about
On the other side of the world, the United States
Raymond Weil, a brand established in the USA
registered a decline of 37.9% in Swiss watch
since 1978). And, as difficult as it may be, this mar-
imports for 2009, while nonetheless conserving
ket in transition offers unusual niches to many
its second place in the hierarchy of trading part-
small innovative brands.
ners with a total value of 1.4 billion Swiss francs. This is in comparison to the 2.3 billion francs of
stylistiC redistribution
imports in 2008, nearly a billion less. This decrease
Beyond the raw figures, the global slowdown has
affected nearly all sectors and all levels, from the
also—perhaps above all—revealed some radical
very haut de gamme to more modestly pos-
reforms that are taking place. As we have said
itioned players (with the exception, perhaps, of
again and again, at the risk of seeming too repeti-
Rolex, which does not release figures but is known
tive, while the crisis was caused by financial and
europa star
RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE 23
economic factors, it also revealed the generalized
the moment has Come
headlong flight in which watchmaking—as in real
This redistribution of the stylistic cards is also obvi-
estate, automobiles, and ‘luxury’ in general—fully
ous. But it should be understood that this is not
participated. Thus, the watch industry must take
about a mere nostalgic return to the past. Rather it
shared responsibility, at the same level as many
is about reconnecting with certain ignored, forgot-
other economic sectors, for its own problems.
ten and even suppressed values, such as: chrono-
The industry should remember that it was not
metry, readability, continuity, service and justified
me, a simple journalist, who said it, but rather
prices. But this is not a ‘conservative’ position, quite
one of the highly placed leaders in the sector,
the contrary. ‘Conservatives’ are those who think that, once the crisis is forgotten, they
“The watch industry has never learned from its mistakes.”
can return to their past practices with no consequences. Again, it is not me, a simple journalist and outside observer, who is saying this, but a member of the luxury ‘nomenclatura’, Alain Némarq, President of
Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin:
Mauboussin, who advanced this point of view in
“The watch industry has never learned from its
the opinion column of Le Monde in February 2010:
mistakes. If a period of growth returns, it will
“Before, luxury was exorbitant prices tied to insane
think that it has survived the crisis and will forget
margins of the large luxury brands. But that was
all about it.” In Vacheron Constantin’s case, it is
luxury before it became urgent to redefine luxury.
building its future on “long-term strategies” that
Some, in this very closed and conservative world,
were amply demonstrated at the recent SIHH
undoubtedly still think that society has merely trav-
with the presenting of one of the most com-
ersed a financial and economic crisis that justifies,
pelling collections, constructed around three pil-
certainly, a short-lived effort on prices, but does not
lars: continuing research into traditional watch-
justify challenging the basic principle of the luxury
making complications; deepening knowledge of
universe, the principle that a luxury product must
related crafts and skills; and a return to stylistic
be expensive to the point of being inaccessible to
purity, notably the ultra-thin movement. It all
the greatest number of people. And yet it is life, or
comes together in harmonious dimensions suit-
at least a certain manner of understanding and of
able for the human physiognomy. In other words,
caring, that invites us to shift luxury’s centre of grav-
the brand’s approach is the exact opposite of
ity, to no longer define it solely on the basis of its
those who indulged in many pre-crisis abuses.
inaccessibility to the largest number of people and
24 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star
the cynical concept of charging excessive prices. True luxury is not dividing those who can afford it from those who cannot. True luxury is something other than this kind of pseudo-differentiation. Luxury is much more than this.
“Luxury must stop being only a combat sport for a certain elite.”
In fact, it has nothing to do with this at all. And, I think it is time to get this notion across.”
During the Nataf era, Zenith—an authentic and
The most interesting point in this statement by
venerable manufacture—tried to reposition itself by
Alain Némarq (whose brand, we add in passing,
seeking the dazzle, the celebrity status, the glam-
registered 20% growth in the first half of 2009) is
our, and the ‘differentiation’. While this strategy
the willingness to “shift luxury’s centre of gravity”
allowed this ‘Sleeping Beauty’ of a brand to return
by moving it away from the idea of inaccessibility
to the centre of discussion—or at least to create
to that of emotional sharing.
some buzz—the model crashed and burned at the
The crisis has, in fact, marked the point of no return
first sign of the crisis.
for a certain exacerbated form of individualism,
The current positioning being carried out by Jean-
leading to a tragic impasse. Aesthetically and styl-
Frédéric Dufour is just the opposite. It is no longer
istically, this evolution is already being expressed
about imposing the brand on the client who is
and will continue to be more and more evident,
‘addicted to luxury’ but rather about offering an
beyond mere talk, in an approach to the object
accessible, high-quality, and substantial product
that is less differentiating but more unifying. As
at a correct price. In Zenith’s case, it is about reviv-
Alain Némarq went on to write: “Luxury must stop
ing one of the loveliest movements in timekeep-
being only a combat sport for a certain elite, and
ing, the El Primero. It is also about removing the
become the universal language of emotion for the
most excessive design features from the preced-
largest number of people possible. This is the only
ing period and returning to wearable sizes with
way for the world of luxury is to ensure its future,
the accent on readability and harmony.
by respecting its contemporaries.”
Over at TechnoMarine, the situation is quite different but not less instructive. Born as a brand combining
double proof
two extreme worlds—plastic and diamonds—
Two examples of ‘re-launches’ seem to demon-
TechnoMarine will conserve its iconoclastic identity
strate the idea of accessible luxury in an exemplary
by combining other ‘extremes’ judged, up to now, to
manner: Zenith and TechnoMarine (to which we
be incompatible: Haute horlogerie and availability
dedicate two articles in this issue).
to the largest number of wearers. To this end, the
0.0000000024 HP.
This is all the energy needed to power the completely newly developed Manufacture movement, CFB A1002, from Carl F. Bucherer. It features the first reliably functioning peripherally positioned rotor and associates perfect aesthetics and progressive technology. It was designed on the basis of the holistic “Evolution Technology” Manufacture Concept, by which Carl F. Bucherer goes its own way with the development of movements and mechanisms, challenging the existing and striving for more intelligent solutions. A mechanical microcosm which is housed in a perfect environment, thanks to the unmistakably distinctive design of the Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve. www.carl-f-bucherer.com
AHEAD OF THE TIMES.
26 RETROSPECTIVE-PERSPECTIVE europa star
more experimental brands, which
A little bit of humility would not be a bad thing—economically— for the watch industry.
target a smaller clientele. The problem is that, because of the pressure to produce newer and newer items at all cost, nearly the entire watch industry has precipitated towards producing the exceptional time-
brand is adopting a similar approach as the high
keeper, while ignoring the more general and con-
street fashion brand Hennes & Moritz. For certain
sensual pieces. Proof of this can be seen in the regu-
of its lines, this clothes retailer is calling upon some
lar decline in the volume of Swiss timekeeping
of fashion’s best-known couturiers to create special
coupled with an increase in the average price of a
collections as a way of democratizing their clien-
watch. Now, however, it seems that the crisis has
tele. In this same way, TechnoMarine is calling
erected a stopping point to this rush forward that
upon some of the industry’s great watchmakers to
paradoxically has, by putting up ‘research’ every-
democratize their following by creating occasional
where, weakened its own strength.
collections for the watch brand.
Autistic in its own way, a certain type of watchmaking considered itself to be the centre of the world,
need for a strong researCh
and believed that the attraction for this art form
and development department
would be without limits. But this is definitely not
These particular approaches towards the democra-
the case—the reservoir of collectors and aficionados
tization of luxury should not, however, make us lose
is—surprise, surprise—not infinitely expandable. As
sight of the fact that watchmaking, like other indus-
for those individuals who, knowing really nothing
tries and arts, needs powerful and strong research
about watches, see them uniquely as an exterior
laboratories to support it. Let’s take a minute and
sign of wealth and power (we think of the Russian
compare it with another industry—movies. We have
market, for example), this is a group of consumers
known for a long time that, for a national film indus-
that, by definition, is volatile and quick to disappear
try to be strong, it must be able to produce both
in the event of a reversal in economic trends.
commercially successful movies, intended for the
A little bit of humility would not be a bad thing—
mass public, and more specialized films, destined
economically—for the watch industry, which,
for a more ‘elite’ audience. These two ends of the
beyond satisfying the suitable aficionado, must
spectrum support and strengthen each other.
also address all those who think about watches
The same holds true for watchmaking. Mass-
only once a year. And, this is surely the case for the
consumer brands must be able to co-exist with
vast majority of the inhabitants of this planet. O
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30 NEW STRATEGIES europa star
Strategic changes at Bulgari An exclusive interview with Francesco Trapani, CEO of Bulgari RConducted by Pierre Maillard healthy base, at the end of a long line of efforts in repositioning our timepieces. Our goal is to have a much more marked presence in the domain of haute horlogerie. More globally, our product strategy is based on two categories: Sophisticated men’s watches equipped with complicated movements; and collections intended for our feminine clientele, emphasizing how precious the pieces are. In this segment, we are putting a strong accent on the exclusive ladies’ collections such as Serpenti or Assioma D, for example, rather than simply reducing the size of our men’s watches like we were able to do in the past.
Europa Star: In a watchmaking landscape that is seeing a shuffling of cards (economic crisis, the announcement by Nicolas Hayek that the Swatch Group is stopping distribution of component parts), what is Bulgari’s strategy in terms of products? Do you envision stabilization, a move upmarket, or new and larger collections? Francesco Trapani: Bulgari’s watch activities have considerably evolved over the last few years as we have crossed a number of important points. In the 1990s, watches were our main growth sector in comparison to other activities, and they enjoyed a lot of success. But times are changing; the environment is transforming; and our clients’ tastes and expectations are evolving. As a result, our watchmaking activities have also changed. At the beginning of 2000, Bulgari decided to move in the direction of adapting to the new parameters governing the watch industry and market. This reorientation called for a move towards the haut de gamme and haute horlogerie sectors. Although Bulgari was primarily present in the quartz watch sector earlier, we chose to move
Francesco Trapani
into the high quality mechanical watch segment, which meant that we had to rethink the structure of our collections. We have gradually cleaned out the models in our entry-level assortment. As you know, this type of process requires an enormous amount of time because it has a major impact on the entire collection and positioning. I can say that, today, Bulgari is at the end of this process. Now, the brand’s watch pursuits are on a
ES: From a stylistic point of view, are you leaning more towards a return to classicism or towards a definite rupture with your earlier designs? FT: Before I answer your question, I would first like to say that one of the founding and core values of Bulgari resides in its creative history in terms of design. We have always differentiated ourselves, as much in our primary business—jewellery—as in watches where we
europa star
NEW STRATEGIES 31
SERPENTI
have been active for the last 30 years, by an aesthetic creativity that is, in a certain way, our ‘brand label’. The Bulgari style is strongly identifiable. It is part of what we call our DNA. Our sources of inspiration are often and regularly drawn from the universe of antiquity and its stylistic values, but we reinterpret them with a contemporary vision and approach. To come back to your question, this explains why Bulgari is not returning to classicism or making a break with our own designs. We remain what we are, Bulgari, with our own style and—if I may say so—a style that is unlike any other. We are lucky, given the richness of our history and the strength of our brand, to be able to remain ourselves without giving in to the stylistic trends of the moment. ES: Do you think that you will follow your policy of integrating your production or will you continue to use sub-contractors? FT: Your question relates to a larger topic that has been the subject of many discussions over the last few years, right up until recently. As mentioned in my answer to your first question, Bulgari started nearly ten years ago to reflect on its overall watch strategy. In parallel to reorienting the structure of the collections, we have begun a process of verticalization and integration that involves the acquisition of companies active in the manufacturing of major haut de gamme watch components: cases (Finger), dials (Cadrans Design) and bracelets (Prestige d’Or). At the same time, we have always maintained loyal relationships with our sub-contractors with whom we deal for specific components, and we will continue to do so. The essential for us, through these successive acquisitions, resides in the mastery of watchmaking savoirfaire in the domain of cases rather than in needing to have 100 per cent verticalization down to the last screw. ES: Will you now speed up the development of specific in-house movements?
FT: Two years ago, we started to develop our own basic mechanical calibre at our sites in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Neuchâtel, which is a natural step for a brand active in prestige timekeeping and for any company determined to master the overall aspects of watchmaking from A to Z. This determination goes along with the various acquisitions that I mentioned earlier in the domain of the cases. This process will be finished this year, and it will allow us to complete our global knowledge in the domain of the mechanical calibre. Our image has thus logically become more consistent over the years in parallel with the major repositioning that we have done over the last decade. I am convinced that this decision was the best one. We can thus say from this point of view that Bulgari is, going forward, a true watchmaking manufacture in the sense that we produce our own movements, cases, dials and bracelets. I do want to emphasize, however, that by ‘manufacture’, which is an over-used term, I do not mean to imply that Bulgari
wants to produce all of its movements, cases and bracelets in-house! Our goal was and remains to master the savoir-faire for a portion of our collection—the high-end and the very high-end. As I said earlier, we will continue to depend upon our suppliers, with whom we have good relationships, for some of these various components. ES: Concerning distribution, how is it balanced between your own boutiques and your retailer networks? FT: Bulgari has a strong international distribution network that allows us to be active on several levels and to ensure an optimal presence on a global scale in keeping with the reputation of the brand. This is explained naturally by the fact that we are a group in the luxury sector with a large number of products, notably jewellery, watches, perfume and accessories. Bulgari has more than 270 boutiques around the world and also distributes
32 NEW STRATEGIES europa star
DIAGONO 303 MOVEMENT
ES: What were the reasons behind this decision?
DIAGONO 303
its products through a large network of agents and retailers. In all, we have a network of more than 700 points of sale. Our distribution channels are thus very well balanced between our own stores and our agents and retailers. ES: People are asking a lot of questions about the future of Roth and Genta. Just what is the situation with these two watch brands? FT: As you know, Bulgari has made great changes to its watchmaking pole. Up to the end of 2009, the group owned a portfolio of three distinct watch brands: Bulgari, Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta, attached to the manufacture of the same name. These two brands have benefited from total independence in relation to the group. We have, however,
taken the decision to integrate their activities. In other words, we are placing their advanced savoir-faire under the Bulgari ‘umbrella’. This does not mean a pure and simple integration, however. While no watches will be sold under the specific names of Roth or Genta, their mention will endure in reference to their specific manufacturing savoir-faire for which they are generally known. And, their names will figure on the dials of certain appropriate collections. They will become an integral part of Bulgari. To sum it up, the Bulgari brand now has a watch portfolio composed of three collections: Bulgari, Bulgari Roth, and Bulgari Genta. Each will have its own specifications and positioning, with a range of complications going right up to the grand sonnerie. The first products should reach the market sometime next autumn.
FT: The reasons that guided our decision are simple. Small niche brands are becoming more and more numerous in the marketplace. Without a strong base in terms of both finance and distribution, the situation is and will remain very difficult for them. This is why we decided to integrate Roth and Genta into our group structure, since the group is large enough to withstand economic downturns, and then rebound when the recovery begins. This also allows us to strengthen the Bulgari brand and to continue our move upmarket while maintaining the production tool of Genta and Roth intact. It is also important to note that the production sites in the Vallée de Joux, in Sentier to be precise, will continue their activities. There will be no repercussions for the some 70 employees that work there. All three collections will benefit from the knowledge, the skills and the excellence of Roth and Genta, which will continue to deliver their own movements to the three previously cited collections. We will thus have movements from the Manufacture Roth & Genta in Sentier, in parallel to our own movement from the Bulgari manufacture that we have totally designed, developed, and produced in-house. It will be launched this year at BaselWorld, as well as movements made by external suppliers. O For more information about Bulgari click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
N E W I n s t r u m en t B R 0 1 T o u r bi l l o n G OL D 4 6 m m . Reg u l a t o r . P o we r r e s e r v e 1 2 0 h o u r s . T r u s t inde x . A l u m ini u m b r idge s . A l u m ini u m f ibe r D I AL . S at in -  p o l i s h ed pin k g o l d c a s e g o l d t o u r bi l l o n c a r r i a ge . Li m i t ed edi t i o n t o 2 0 pie c e s Informat ion: Switzerland +41 32 331 26 35 . EUROPE +33 (0)1 55 35 36 00 . www.bellross.com
34 NEW STRATEGIES europa star
Corum, increasing the desire RPierre Maillard
A
After having come to Corum five years ago (following twelve years at Vendôme—which later became Richemont where he was directly involved with Panerai), Antonio Calce, now Corum’s CEO, seems to be legitimately proud of what he has accomplished at the brand. The era of Wunderman was marked by a form of flamboyant ‘fashionization’ of the company, located in La Chaux de Fonds, and the famous and well-named Bubble—was tragically cut short by the death of Séverin Wunderman. (His son Michael, who headed up Corum’s distribution for North America, left the world of watches afterwards.) Corum now belongs entirely to the foundation created by Séverin Wunderman before his passing, and Antonio Calce has been given a free hand to develop the brand’s strategy. Calce has also taken over the direct management of its North American operations. The brand’s strategy is three-pronged: revitalization of Corum’s savoir-faire; re-establishment of favoured relationships with retailers; and an offer re-centred around the ’four pillars of the brand’—Golden Bridge, Admiral's Cup, Romulus, and the Artisans line. The strategy went into effect right away, thus all the new products for 2010 were developed in-house regardless of the level of design, development, construction and final assembly (from now on realized 100 per cent in-house). On the commercial side, Antonio Calce (for whom Corum is “a niche brand that is fortunate enough to not be a single-product brand”) has fully made the paradigm shift that connects a brand like his with the retailer. On a market such as the USA, for example, now managed directly by Calce himself,
ADMIRAL’S CUP MINUTE REPEATER TOURBILLON 45
Corum must change its distribution from a large ‘fashion’ type model to a relationship of long-term ‘partnerships’ with its retailers and developers “who understand the added value in our watches and who transmit our regained legitimacy.” This remark is also meaningful in a greater sense because, like his former mentor Franco Cologni, Antonio Calce insists on the necessity—urgent in his mind—of more profound efforts in terms of education relating to watchmaking. For him, this is the only guarantee of having a long-lasting presence.
Double anniversary As far as products go, the accent this year is on two of the brand’s pillars: the Admiral's Cup and the Golden Bridge. These models should strongly contribute to the “renaissance of the desire for Corum” by the consumer, whose interest in the brand is increasing, especially since the brand’s pricing policy is perfectly in line with the current economic situation and the changes in consumer behaviour. Following the policy of launching products in a limited series (also a way of constantly revitalizing its relationship with retailers), Antonio
europa star
GOLDEN BRIDGE and MISS GOLDEN BRIDGE
Calce is taking advantage of the two anniversaries that are occurring this year—the thirtieth anniversary of the Golden Bridge and the fiftieth anniversary of the Admirals Cup—to propose not only unique commemorative models but also to enlarge these two families with new lines produced in a limited series. Thus, we should no longer say ‘Golden Bridge’ because, with the remarkable ‘T-Bridge’ launched last year, this family has been entirely revisited and has taken on the generic name ‘Corum Bridge’. Other outstanding pieces are also in the pipeline. As a grand premiere, the Golden Bridge is getting a dial—quite surprising for a watch known for the absolute trans-
parency of the case in which the baguette movement seems to float. This addition demonstrates that the timepiece has acquired the veritable status of an icon, whose unique feature is that it can transform while remaining true to itself. The baguette movement stands out magnificently against all sorts of very different dials—black, dark grey, light grey, golden, guilloché in a vertical or sunray pattern, and decorated with facetted appliqué indexes. On the back, an opening in the form of a lock exposes the movement while letting the light shine through. Another new piece in this collection is the first ‘Miss Golden Bridge’ that showcases the
NEW STRATEGIES 35
baguette Calibre CO113 in a delicate and slender tonneau case, made of white or red gold. As for the T-Bridge, whose “sell-through is exceptional,” according to Antonio Calce, its increased strength is clear with, on one hand, a model edged with rubber that reinforces the modernity of the watch and, on the other hand, an exceptional T-Bridge with a flying tourbillon and double barrel that will be revealed at BaselWorld. The second pillar, the Admirals Cup, will welcome an ultra-sleek new model to celebrate its 50 years. The crowning touch on this sporty line, the new watch is made of titanium, is water-resistant to 1,000 metres, and features a helium valve. The reliability of this new piece is assured by a rare Valjoux movement without its ‘chrono’ plate. (Besides Corum, only Panerai uses this configuration from Valjoux.) All of the design codes of the Admirals Cup have been strengthened by Antonio Calce and his team to create a very recognizable watch, typical of the line. One important point: in offering its famous flags tone-on-tone, the Admirals Cup opens itself to a wider audience, one less directly connected to the world of sailing. The various new pieces are distinctive and well thought out, each model offering something different with a precise function. Thus, we find a 44-mm Admirals Cup with flyback hand, a 48-mm foudroyante model, and a very interesting 44-mm single-pusher chronograph whose chronographic minute display is on the outside perimeter of the dial. We also must not forget the very lovely ladies’ chrono with a diamond-set dial. O For more information about Corum click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
38 NEW STRATEGIES europa star
Zenith returns to the workbench RPierre Maillard
A
At Zenith, the time has come to return to basics, to concentrate on the manufacture and the El Primero movement. Starting with the arrival of a new CEO on June 1, 2009, Jean-Frédéric Dufour, former production head at Chopard, orchestrated the brand’s 180 degree turnaround. Gone was the glitter, farewell to the flashy, out with the showy exuberance. Everyone was asked to return to the workbenches. But to carry out this about-face transformation—favoured or perhaps even forced by the prevailing economic situation (which has not fundamentally changed today, even if the watch industry’s global numbers have risen)—Dufour did not rush into anything. Compelled, unwillingly, at the start of the re-organization to lay off a number of people in order to slim down the operation (70 layoffs were announced at the end of June 2009 out of a total work force of 250), he then set about trying to wake up the sleeping patrimony of the brand.
ACADEMY G ZERO
europa star
XXXXXXXX 00
Understanding the value of the past “I had to begin by understanding the value of our past,” explains Jean-Frédéric Dufour, “and then exhaustively take stock of our patrimony that encompasses not less than 2,500 different watches, without even counting the inestimable treasure of the tools that have been conserved or even saved from destruction during the 1980s by a former employee.” Using this precious inventory, Dufour sought out the best means to revive the knowledge acquired by the brand. The first step was to do a major clean out of the existing collections. Divided into 16 main collections, without even counting the sub-collections, Zenith had about 800 models. Today, only 150 are left. That is quite some cleaning out. “I conserved those that sold the best and were in tune with our new image. I also added new collections at the base of the pyramid,” he adds, “which now includes an entry-level manufacture-made watch with an Elite movement selling at around 3,300 CHF. At the top of the pyramid is the El Primero tourbillon priced at less than 50,000 CHF. I especially wanted and still want to fully revive our historic movement, the El Primero that will, from now on, systematically equip all our complicated watches.” Moreover, Jean-Frédéric Dufour has revisited the brand’s communication, marketing and after-sales service. “The world of fashion, the top models, the exotic destinations—all that has disappeared in favour of the product. The entire accent is now on our identity as an authentic manufacture with a rich and fabulous past. It is now on our revived patrimony.” And, his plan seems to be working. At the end of the Geneva (SIHH) watch week during which Zenith held its own private and well-attended show, Dufour affirms to have “doubled his projected budget.”
Four collections In concrete terms, Zenith 2010 has four welltiered collections: Academy, which includes high complications; El Primero, available in Chronomaster and Class; Defy, the sporty
NEW VINTAGE 1969
line; and Elite, the entry-level watches. In all, 30 new models are joining the Zenith family. As we know, the El Primero movement, with its 36,000 vibrations per hour, is capable of measuring tenths of a second. A new, simple, and intuitive way to read this time, using a red hand that makes a complete rotation of the dial in ten seconds, has been patented and added to one of the models, selling for 11,800 CHF in steel. Already, the El Primero is being used in a steel chronograph with a new case mounted on a crocodile strap, selling at 7,900 CHF. For fun, this calibre is also found in the El Primero Retrotimer, priced at 6,900 CHF, that includes 8 minutes in red in its small counter. Why 8 minutes in red? Dufour answers with a smile: “It is because I love Italian cuisine and the al dente pasta cooks for 8 minutes.” For 14,000 CHF, you can buy a flyback El Primero with a large date. Clearly, the prices are quite competitive for this level of quality. Among the new models drawing on the brand’s heritage are three lines. The Captain was de-
signed in homage to the nautical dashboard instruments fabricated by Zenith in the past. They are equipped with an El Primero movement and sell for 6,500 CHF in steel or 14,900 CHF in pink gold, or with an Elite movement that is priced at 4,450 CHF for a steel model or 11,900 CHF for the pink gold version. Another model drawing on the brand’s past is the New Vintage 1969, available in a round case with an El Primero movement, priced at 9,400 CHF, or the New Vintage 1965, in a square case with an Elite movement, offered at 4,650 CHF. The third line, the new and remarkable ultra-thin model, is also equipped with an Elite movement and sells for 3,950 CHF in steel or for 10,800 CHF in pink gold. While it is generally not our habit to quote so many prices, we do it here because this offer seems emblematic of the turning point that Swiss timekeeping finds itself at. Expected confirmation at BaselWorld. O For more information about Zenith click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
40 NEW STRATEGIES europa star
TechnoMarine, the facelift before the transplant RPierre Maillard
addition, according to their analyses, the players who were left in the mid-range had nothing “sexy, hip or cool” to offer to consumers, explains Perriard. Seizing upon the word of the day from Christian Viros, to be “disruptive”, and remembering that the best way to confront the competition is to make it “irrelevant”, Vincent Perriard set about making a number of upsetting changes to the sector. Bringing in new talent (15 people out of a total of 75 have been hired since his arrival, including new directors for products, sales and production) and entrusting mandates to teams of external designers (among others, Mijat, White, Cédric Bellon), he developed a threestage strategy.
T
The least one can say about Vincent Perriard (exSwatch Group, ex-Audemars Piguet, ex-Brand DNA, ex-Concord) is that he brings a high level of energy and uncommon gifts of persuasion to everything he undertakes. After having re-vitalized a sleeping Concord, making it the spearhead of a type of watchmaking in search of new frontiers, but even before seeing the ripened fruits of his revolution, Perriard took on another task: to give new life to a TechnoMarine that had become too commonplace. First, let’s take a small trip back into history. At the moment of its launch at the end of the 1990s, TechnoMarine made a huge splash by combining two conflicting worlds: the plastic watch and the diamond. The times were also in a crisis mode—another bubble had burst, not what we are seeing today but that of the Internet, whose bubble crashed and burned in March 2000. At that time, the intuition of TechnoMarine’s creator, Franck Dubarry, turned out to be quite profitable: in difficult times, people need colour, gaiety and whimsy. From this standpoint, TechnoMarine came at the right time by creating a watch that was unconventional, iconoclastic, and. . .affordable. But after having been a trendsetter, opening the way to many followers, TechnoMarine coasted (very well) on its reputation, without however having succeeded in revitalizing itself. Although times were changing, TechnoMarine was not changing with them. With renewed prosperity, the colours, joy, and plastic began to lose their attractiveness. Franck Dubarry thus decided to sell the company. Under the impetus of Gilbert Hoyon, a business leader from a different world than watchmaking, the buyers of
Three-stage rocket
Christian Viros and Vincent Perriard
TechnoMarine—Financière Chronos—convinced Christian Viros to come out of his semiretirement. Named as president, the former wonder boy, who had presided over the spectacular renaissance of TAG Heuer, let Gilbert Hoyon go, and brought in Vincent Perriard.
Word of the day: disrupt! This happened in May 2009. The reason Perriard accepted this challenge, beyond his admiration for the marketing talents of Christian Viros, was that the current economic crisis was well underway, and the two men understood that the price segment in which TechnoMarine was active— between 500 and 3,000 CHF—had been left barren by the frenzied move upmarket by most of the watch industry players, and that this vacancy offered interesting opportunities. In
The first stage, BaselWorld 2010, will show an entire facelift, but only a facelift that does not touch the framework of the brand’s offer. The existing hundred or so references have thus been “crushed” and replaced by 115 new models. While great efforts have been undertaken as far as the dials (now three-dimensional), the hands and the bracelets (the ‘Goldorak’ moulded plastic has been replaced by soft silicone), the total interchangeability (bracelet, middle case) of TechnoMarine’s chameleon watches has been carefully conserved and even improved. The second stage will happen at BaselWorld 2011, where the “disruptor” will announce “a real fireworks display”. His idea, that he talks about with great relish, is to bring an “enormous amount of visibility” to the brand by “redoing what Dubarry did in the beginning. In other words, beyond the product, create a phenomenon by combining two contradictory worlds and thus filling an empty space on the chessboard of watchmaking.” Promising to “create a clash by turning the world upside down,” he wants to give the
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world of timekeeping what Hennes & Mauritz offers to the field of fashion: limited series, with limited price tags, but clothes signed by wellknown and respected names in the industry. In this way, like H&M offers clothes signed by Karl Lagerfeld or Stella McCartney from time to time, Perriard wants to occasionally offer TechnoMarine watches for less than 3,000 Swiss francs that are signed by various great names in the industry. Which ones? For now, mum’s the word, but contacts have already been created and are extremely encouraging, he assures us. In the same spirit, he is also preparing special—but always affordable— TechnoMarine timepieces signed by the great names in show business, with proceeds going to an appropriate charity. The third stage of this rocket is the creation of new collections, from scratch, whose first indications will be shown confidentially at BaselWorld, and carry the code name, Project X. In this case, the goal is to create “cult watches” that, by trimming margins, will demonstrate, for a few thousand Swiss francs, how TechnoMarine can create what others produce for a few tens of thousands of francs. What disruptive chaos this may create, and Perriard is already rejoicing. Project X will be accompanied by two other new propositions of very affordable collections, starting at around 700 Swiss francs.
Filling an empty space at the retailer If this progressive strategy is oriented towards the consumer, it is also, according to Vincent Perriard, a “blessing” for retailers. In trying to democratize the luxury watch, even the haute horlogerie timepiece, TechnoMarine wants to fill an empty space. “We want to renew relations with well-informed retailers who have nothing in their line-up that is both consistent and has a strong content, all with an affordable price. Our TechnoMarine collections by ‘x’ will create an extraordinary buzz. They will generate traffic. They will attract a public that would have never crossed the threshold of some stores.” From a distribution point of view, TechnoMarine has immense possibilities. The brand is still totally absent from such key markets as China,
A new face for TechnoMarine
Japan, Singapore, Italy and others. “With a new logo, new cool and funky communication, a new complementary offer, one that does not take the consumer hostage, we are already interested in many markets that were previously closed to us. We offer the possibility to have major rotation. It is quite simple,” he adds, “Last week, we opened 17 new markets, yes, 17 in one week. Well, I know that this is just the sell-in, and now we have to sell out…”
The king of buzz Whatever happens, whether he wins his bet or not, the buzz created by the hand of an expert has already started. You have probably heard of the hyper-realistic and troubling video (is it
real or is it fake?) that appears on YouTube, which shows robbers filming themselves in a jewellery store, where they scornfully leave watches of the big brands, and instead race for the TechnoMarine. “Some people loved the video but others did not appreciate it at all, saying that we were crazy. OK, perhaps we are crazy, after all,” muses Perriard. But the ‘crazy guy’ has good reason, personally, to win his bet. He accepted the offer made by Christian Viros because it was not about being a ‘good little soldier’ but about being an ‘entrepreneur’ and one who is directly involved in the results of his actions. For more information about TechnoMarine click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
H A U T L E N C E H L Q 07
Manufacture’s own patented calibre Hand-winding MecHanical MoveMent JuMping Hours, retrograde Minutes, date liMited and nuMbered edition of 88 pieces titaniuM case and buckle power reserve of 40 Hours water resistant up to 3 atM Hautlence.coM
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Harry Winston’s Project Z6 RPierre Maillard
S
“Stabilize the brand at the summit!” In a few words, this is the essential goal—on the watch side—of Frédéric de Narp, the new President and CEO of Harry Winston, who was appointed at the end of December 2009. This man of products, marketing and communication already has 20 years of watch experience under his belt, of which 17 were spent at Cartier in Asia, Italy, Greece, and then in the USA where he was also President and CEO of Cartier North America. He is thus quite qualified to take over the reins of the New York jeweller and watchmaker. Among his various duties is an ambitious objective: find the ‘ultimate’ feminine watch that will become the icon of the brand.
Z as in Zalium It is still too early to evaluate the impact of his arrival at Harry Winston. For the moment, the brand is concentrating on a project started in 2004, the Project Z. ‘Z’ stands for Zalium, an aluminium and zirconium alloy that is very lightweight, hypoallergenic, dark gray in colour and is used by the brand for a series of special sports watches. This year, with the Project Z6, Harry Winston is proposing a new complication that very few brands offer: the alarm watch. (Among the brands making alarm timepieces are Vulcain, a specialist in this type of watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Blancpain, Breguet and Ulysse Nardin.) The Z6 alarm watch is equipped with a manual-winding movement reserved exclusively for Harry Winston (for the period of one year), as well as two coupled barrels—one for the movement (72 hours of power reserve)—and one for the alarm chime (with a duration of about 20 seconds). The winding of the alarm
and the movement are carried out at the same time. The harmonious alarm chime is obtained by the intervention of a hammer fixed to the case that strikes the face of a singleblock rectangular bell, which is visible through an opening in the dial. Great efforts in design and decoration presided over the creation of the piece’s very contemporary dial, composed of 18 levels offering a geometric composition of surfaces decorated with the Côtes de Genève pattern, vertically silvered and brushed, slate-gray that is brushed, satin-finished, or available in blued steel. Two off-centred dials intersect, with each featuring its day/night indicator. On the time dial,
the hour and minute hands are joined by a disc in the form of a shuriken—known as a ‘throwing star’, hand-held blades used by Japanese Ninjas—on which the movement shows the seconds. The alarm and time are set using the same crown in both directions. The activation of the alarm function is done using a push-piece at 4 o’clock that is perfectly integrated into the middle case. The Z6 is available in a limited series of 250 pieces with an anthracite dial, and 50 pieces for a silvered dial, reserved for Harry Winston boutiques. O For more information about Harry Winston click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Hautlence rebuilds and retools
HLQ 03 HLQ 04
RKeith W. Strandberg
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In the face of a worldwide downturn of interest in so-called ‘boutique brands’, Hautlence is shaking things up. Sure, business is off, but Guillaume Tetu, COO of Hautlence, is not just sitting around waiting for things to get better, he is doing something about it. “We have had to rebuild the image of the brand, because after the launch of Hautlence, we didn’t have enough product to satisfy demand,” Tetu admits. “After that, we established the sales network, then the crisis hit. Before, we were just selling watches, but we did not build the brand.” Hautlence’s strategy is to be closer to the market, to be in the position to educate consumers
on the brand and fine watches in general. This means a lot of travel for Tetu, to meet with all the partners and try to meet as many consumers as possible. “We are creating our first joint venture, to have our own distribution in Asia,” Tetu explains. “To be closer to the market, we have to do things differently. The best way for us was to find a good partner for the local market and to own the company together, and have our own sales team, so we can control the message.” Hautlence is working to find the right partner in the United States and other parts of the world. For Russia and Europe, the brand plans to handle sales from their headquarters in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. For BaselWorld this year, Hautlence is introducing the HLQ 03, in black titanium with pink gold, and the HLQ 04, which utilizes a new honeycomb dial and a special deep black steel coating.The HLQ 03 and 04 are 43.8 mm.Also to be introduced in Basel is the HLC, a smaller version of the HL, the first round watch in
Hautlence’s collection, a 41 mm timepiece that features a mother-of-pearl dial.All watches are manual wind and use proprietary Hautlence movements. Hautlence does all its own watch development, designing every piece and part, then the brand uses a network of specialist suppliers throughout Switzerland. The watchmakers at Hautlence assemble the limited production watches in their workshop in Neuchâtel (Hautlence is an anagram of Neuchâtel). Unlike other small brands, Hautlence is not dependent on movement suppliers like BNB (which recently went out of business, leaving many companies without a source for movements) – Tetu manages the production himself, a big job for a small brand, but one that Tetu sees as necessary to maintain the brand’s uniqueness and true independence. This year, for the first time, Hautlence is exhibiting inside the BaselWorld show, Hall 4.1, Stand A37.O For more information about Hautlence click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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The UR-103 is dead, long live URWERK To my knowledge, there is no other example of a watch brand that, after seven successful years, decides unilaterally to stop a collection that has marked the history of this several-hundred-year old art form. But that is what happened at URWERK. The brand’s famous UR-103 collection will be reduced to embers at BaselWorld this year, and then it will finally go out. So long, UR-103.
RPierre Maillard
T
This rather spectacular announcement must not be seen as some sort of ‘marketing’ gimmick to increase the rarity of this line of timepieces. No, not at all. Félix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the two thinking heads of URWERK do not think like that. They certainly acted as entrepreneurs when, in 2002 after much hesitation, they decided to put everything they had on the table to launch the UR-103. They had to believe in it and have the courage to believe in it. But the two men are also, and above all, artists— artists in the real sense of the term who are not driven by a ‘career plan’ but rather by their desperate need to be creative. “On a creative level,” explains Félix Baumgartner, “we worked for seven years with all sorts of mechanical and design possibilities that the UR-103 offered. But now, it has done all it can do. We have pushed it as far as it can go.” Martin Frei adds, “As it entered into its seventh year of existence, the 103 reached its maturity to the fullest. We are not interested in repeating ad infinitum the same thing.” Together, they are quick to affirm, “We are not interested in growing larger and larger, ad infinitum, either. But what does interest us now is to move on to other things, to find new mechanical and design challenges, to surprise and amaze once more, to push the frontiers of our research even farther, and to continue to explore. That is what motivates us.”
A form of respect This attitude—so rare these days—is basically a form of respect. It is respect for those who, as collectors, watch aficionados, aesthetes, or lovers of design and mechanical objects, have
‘fluid’ but ‘fierce’, let’s go back seven years and take a look at the major steps in the birth and life of the UR-103.
Geneva – January 10, 2002
remained loyal to URWERK’s adventure with the UR-103 over the years. By stopping the 103, the brand is indirectly saying that these pieces will remain exceptional forever and historic in their own way and that similar watches will never be found. It also shows respect for the age-old culture of timekeeping on which URWERK has always based its practices while still expressing its creations in a very contemporary and post-modern manner. The brand has realized that for this culture to grow, to follow its path and its evolution, it must unceasingly reinvent and revitalize itself. Watchmaking is an art that must constantly be reborn in order to continue to live. So, hats off then to URWERK that, as a final tribute to the UR-103, is offering two strongly different watches, which synthesize and sum up the collection’s remarkable journey—a journey born, which was very revolutionary for its time, only to become a classic. And as its creators say, “A classic never dies”. Before we discover these two ultimate expressions that will put the final wrap on a collection that is ‘pure’ but ‘aggressive’ as well as
“We were sitting around the table. The company’s bank statement was lying in front of us. The balance was CHF 100,000. This is all that we had after five years of very hard work. For five long years, we worked to keep our dream alive, but with only mitigated success. Several times we came close to ending it— orders cancelled the day before delivery, prices of component parts too high. We had the incessant feeling that we were on a roller coaster—one day, it would be euphoria, the next, depression. Finally, we found ourselves in a hole. We had the plans for our new watch but not enough money to produce it.” “We were like players at a poker table. We could risk all our chips and make a last-ditch effort, or we could admit defeat and leave the game. CHF 100,000! That was a lot of money for each of us. Thinking of the future, we needed to step back a little. CHF 100,000. It was also a relatively small sum to re-launch our company. We had to make a decision, then and there. First round of the table. Second round of the table. URWERK was clinically dead. But it was way too stupid. We looked at each other. Third round of the table—it cannot end this way. We would go right to the finish. We believed in it. –‘URWERK is not dead. The UR-103 will live!’ we said.” And so it lived. Five years before making this crucial decision, on which their whole future depended, Félix Baumgartner and Martin Frei created their first watch, the UR-101. The year
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was 1997, the date they also founded URWERK. Félix and Martin are two friends, bound together by the same desire to shake up watchmaking both aesthetically and mechanically. They come from two different worlds, yet feel totally complementary. Félix is the son of a watchmaker. Born in Schaffhausen, his bedroom was next to his father’s workshop. Sometimes the young boy had trouble falling asleep since, on the other side of the wall, his father would struggle
with something late into the night. A restorer of ancient timekeepers and clocks, at a very early age, he instilled in his son, his love and passion for these marvellous machines filled with moving wheels. Martin attended the School of Fine Arts in Lucerne and was passionate about contemporary art, architecture and design. He was also influenced by the pop culture of his epoch—by comic strips and science fiction. Not being from the world of watches, as a total outsider, he brought a fresh and different look to the universe of timekeeping. Where these two men were alike, however, is in their desire to break with current codes. A master watchmaker working notably in the workshops of Vacheron Constantin, Félix did not see himself “doing the same thing” all his life. He wanted a change. As for Martin, he dreamed of doing something concrete, of applying his inspirations to industrial design. Together, they created URWERK. The first part of the brand name is a play on words between ‘Uhr’, the German word for ‘watch’, and ‘Ur’ the ancient Mesopotamian city where the first examples of writing were found. The second half, ‘Werk’, means ‘movement’ in German.
thus presenting the right number in the window, all while rotating around the movement in 60 minutes. In its rather reasonable manner, the UR-101 has one remarkable particularity. Contrary to most young brands, URWERK is not interested in accommodating classic complications—tourbillion, minute repeater, perpetual calendar—in a contemporary way. What interested Félix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, and still interests them, is how to radically transform the way time is read by proposing new ways of understanding it, while still offering immediate and intuitive readability. The UR-101 was remarkable but - undoubtedly because it was still a compromise between two different approaches of watchmaking art - it never really made it to the shore. The two friends found themselves in a dilemma: should they stop or should they try to further advance their adventure. One day, Félix Baumgartner’s father made a suggestion, a real intuition that would prove to be decisive. What if the hour reading was moved from the top to the bottom of the watch? A critical point, this became the founding principle of the UR-103.
First steps
Basel – April 3, 2003
Their first watch, the UR-101, already included the basic germs of their aesthetical-technical approach that were so particular. The UR-101 is a round timepiece, with still relatively classic workmanship, but deprived of any hand. The ‘dial’ is like a hatch where the opening of a circular arc appears at the top of the face, between 9 and 3 o’clock. The time is read by a travelling hour hand that appears at 9 o’clock behind a small window that intuitively indicates the minutes by travelling along the arc of the circle, divided into 60 minutes, until it reaches 3 o’clock. At the moment the hour disappears, it is instantaneously replaced at 9 o’clock by the number of the next hour. To drive this mechanism, Félix came up with the idea of two invisible and synchronized satellites, each with six numbers that rotate on themselves
“So there we were. It was 9 o’clock in the morning and we were standing beside the window of our stand at the AHCI. Well, we thought, either it would work or it wouldn’t. We were cruelly aware of the situation yet we had faith in the UR-103. It was an original complication that displayed the hours using satellites. A three-dimensional work. On the back was a world premiere, the control board. The case was like a sculpture. We knew that we had put the best of ourselves into our creation. The only concession was that the case was in stainless steel. There was simply not enough money left to buy the necessary gold. But the piece was a success. It was beautiful both technically and aesthetically. It was a watch made for informed aficionados, that we knew, and it was, in fact, from this perspective
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CONTROL BOARD
that we created it—for those who appreciate the watchmaking arts. Would they like our piece? At 4 o’clock in the afternoon, we received the first orders. At 28 years old, I suddenly felt like I was King of the world,” reminisces Félix Baumgartner. The presentation of the UR-103 at the Basel fair in 2003 hit the watch world like a small bombshell. Everyone agreed—aesthetes and technicians, watchmakers and designers, collectors and journalists—that this timekeeper was poles apart from all those around it. It was radically different yet it was wearable. It offered a new way of reading time but in a very readable manner. From a technical point of view, it was a total success. From a design point of view, it was irreproachable. It was innovative and cutting-edge and its equilibrium was superb.
Spatial and temporal sculpture At first glance, the UR-103 looks like a sculpted block, with a wing-like aerodynamic form and a top crown carved like a Doric column. At
UR-103.01
the same time severe, slender, and smooth, the case (which brings to mind a Brancusi sculpture as much as a space ship) features a large opening at the bottom. The hours appear in an arc on a conic satellite that glides from right to left along the minute scale. When it disappears, another satellite appears right after it, indicating the following travelling hour. The basic principle is identical to the UR-101 except that the satellites are not only partially visible but now there are four instead of two. In the form of a cone, each of these satellites is based on the principle of the Maltese Cross and bears three numbers: 1, 5, and 9 on the first satellite; 2, 6, and 10 on the second; 3, 7, and 11 on the third; and 4, 8, and 12 on the fourth satellite. They are supported in the centre and carried by an ultra-light orbital cross, made of titanium and driven by the minute wheel, which ensures the perfect distribution of energy and weight. The system is powered by a manual-winding movement decorated with the Côtes de Genève pattern. Beating at
21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), it has a power reserve of 43 hours. The system’s additional base plate is made of a blackened ARCAP material chosen for its high stability and absence of tension that guarantee high precision. The movement is directly accessible from the back of the watch via an opening secured in place with titanium screws.
A world premiere: the control board At the back of the watch’s grade 5 titanium case is a world’s first in a wristwatch: a control board. This diagnostic centre of the piece— that informs the wearer of the condition of the machine he is wearing on his wrist—is directly inspired by the remarkable particularity of the ancient marine chronometers. These old instruments indicated a number of functions that were not used every day, so they were put on the back of the chronometers. In the UR-103, the control board shows three indicators under the sapphire crystal: small seconds hand, a 15minute counter hand, and a power reserve indicator hand. The wearer can also correct the watch to the nearest second and verify its working precision
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UR-103.01
UR-103.03
UR-103.08 TiAIN
UR-103 HEXAGONE
any indication, above the satellite opening frees up space for placing original adornment. This UR-103 ‘sculpture’ can thus be engraved or decorated at will. Presented at the Basel fair in 2003 and commercially launched the same year, the UR-103 would undergo a series of subtle and radical transformations over the years.
Gradual unveiling UR-103.06 JOAILLERIE
by using a fourth element situated on the back. Located directly under the small seconds, this fourth element is a correcting screw placed above a finely engraved graduated scale. By turning this fine adjustment screw, it is possible to advance or retard the watch by 30 seconds over a 24-hour period. The stability of this device is assured by a direct coupling with the regulating organ of the movement. An outstanding world’s first.
A new dimension For its wearer, the UR-103 brings a whole new spatial and poetic dimension to the reading of time, which seems like the sun’s course above
UR-103 BLACKBIRD
the horizon. Intuitively, the wearer visually ‘feels’ the number of minutes that pass and the number that remain. By imagining four conic satellites, Félix Baumgartner offers the possibility to designer Martin Frei of placing the hour numbers on the sides of the satellites. Not only has the size of the numbers been improved but so has their angle of vision. Even when the watch is in a horizontal position, the numbers are re-oriented directly towards the eye of the wearer, meaning that it is no longer necessary to turn the watch to read the time. This held true also for checking the time of the UR-103 when driving with hands on the steering wheel. Last but not least, the large area, devoid of
Since the satellite mechanism is so fascinating, the two creators gradually reveal its secrets. Two years after the UR-103.01 is born, the UR-103.03 comes along in 2005. The upper face of its case opens in the form of a large U to partially reveal the hour satellites. While this opening appears simple enough, it was very complicated to actually create. No sapphire crystal of this size and form has ever been made, thus it was necessary to develop new techniques to craft this transparent ‘canopy’ that would make a large part of the satellite technology be visible. Martin Frei was at first hesitant to open the crystal since it would go against the brand’s sacrosanct minimalist philosophy, but in the end he was won over to the idea. This would also allow them to create a large space on the face of the
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UR-103 HEXAGONE
watch that would be scratch-resistant. This cockpit-like opening also gave the piece an undeniable mechanical power and strength. That same year, in 2005, at the invitation of Harry Winston, URWERK demonstrated the height of its talent and inspiration by using the satellite theme in an amazingly whimsical, innovative, and three-dimensional manner. With the very remarkable Opus 5, Félix Baumgartner and Martin Frei played with their own codes, transforming the satellites into dice that rotated on themselves, thereby providing the travelling hour for reading the time.
Aeronautics and jewellery In 2006, URWERK presents a new model, the UR-103 Blackbird. Like its name implies, this watch—inspired by the stealth jet of the same name—has a black case, made of platinum coated with black PE-CVD (Plasma EnhancedChemical Vapour Deposition, more resistant than traditional PVD). Taking the black theme even further, the dial, satellites, and the orbital cross also take on a black PVD coating (the satellites and orbital cross are in grade 5 titanium). The numbers and the minute scale are coated with bright yellow SuperLumiNova that transforms into a rich blue glow at night, reminiscent of the cockpit of a jet. A powerful piece available only in a series of ten watches. In 2007, the tone of the watches changes radically. With the UR-103.06, URWERK demonstrates the amazing versatility of their ‘creature’. From a stealth jet, the UR-103 turns itself into a superb piece of jewellery. Clearly, the space available for setting diamonds is larger than that offered by a traditional watch. The 103.06 is covered with 277 white diamonds for a total weight of 5.28 carats set into the case, crown and dial. It is available in a limited series of 25 in gold and 10 in platinum.
Advanced treatments URWERK continues its research into materials and their treatments with the UR-103.08 TiAlN. As Martin Frei reminisces from his artistic studies, “In sculpture, the quality of an object comes
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UR-103T TiAIN
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UR-103T ‘MEXICAN FIRELEG’
the resistance of the metal to scratches, shocks, oxidation and even acids. Lighter than equivalent coatings in gold or titanium, the UR-103.08 TiAlN has an intriguing chocolate colour, which ranges between bronze and stormy black depending on the relative proportions of titanium and aluminium in the compound. The difficulty in working with this coating is in finding just the right proportions.
Virile The year 2008 also sees the creation of a limited series of 10 watches of the new UR-103 Hexagon. The name comes from the form of the satellites that, for the first time, have angular lines, conferring a definite masculine strength to the timekeeper, almost to the point of being aggressive. This virile feeling is strengthened by the totally black PE-CVD coating of the platinum piece. With this model, Félix and Martin also pay homage to one of their earliest pieces, the UR 102, nicknamed the Night Watch, which has since become a collector’s item. When designing the UR-103 Hexagon, Martin Frei recalls the jet-black India ink that he used during his studies in fine arts. In fact, his first sketches were always drawn in black and white since it was only with the purity of black that an idea reveals its true nature, according to him. He also believes that “black is the supreme colour because it attracts the light, swallows it, and contains all the other colours.”
Venomous essentially from the material in which it is sculpted. It’s by working with the material that one feels, from its sensual contact, its interior strength or its softness. It’s by working with it that we can discover its true nature.” With this idea in mind, URWERK applies a coating to steel that is the hardest and most resistant known today: TiAlN (Titanium Aluminium Nitride). With a thickness of less than 4 microns, the TiAlN coating increases
The sign of the ‘T’ dominates the year 2009 at URWERK, with the ‘T’ standing for ‘Tarantula’, the most feared arachnid of its type. In the UR-103T, the entire satellite mechanism and the orbital cross are visible. The cross, however, has been revisited and redesigned for the occasion. Made in ARCAP, a very stable alloy of nickel and copper, the ends of this structure hold the satellites in such a way that the numbers cannot be seen unless they are travelling along the minute scale to tell the time.
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UR-103TS ‘SHINING T’
To achieve this result, the mechanism for rotating the satellites has been completely modified. They now rotate simultaneously behind their respective hiding places while waiting to enter the long minute scale, thus accomplishing one ‘pirouette’ of 480 degrees in four sequences of 120 degrees. Impressive, powerful, strongly evocative, and nearly venomous, the UR-103T is offered in steel coated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride) or in white or pink gold.
The last embers This year, for its last appearance on the grand watchmaking stage, the UR-103 will present its last embers with a piece that is both more venomous than ever, with the UR-103T ‘Mexican Fireleg Tarantula’, and more transparent than ever, with the UR-103TS ‘Shining T’. In steel coated with micro-sanded and handpolished AlTiN and titanium back, the UR-103T ‘Mexican Fireleg’ is directly inspired by the formidable spider of the same name, which has frightening red legs. With its grade 2 titanium orbital cross enhanced with orangey red SuperLumiNova, the same colour and coating that is on the hour numbers and minute markers, the UR-103T Mexican Fireleg will send shivers up the spine of even the most hardened fans of the brand. With ‘S’ standing for ‘sapphire’, the UR-103TS ‘Shining T’ will mark the ultimate unveiling in this line of exceptional timepieces. After having progressively opened the case to reveal the satellite mechanism, URWERK has carved the satellites themselves in blocks of sapphire. The effect is magical, giving the piece a high degree of lightness and a level of transparency never before attained. The mechanism’s fluidity is accentuated even more by the delicate pale blue LumiNova tint of the hour and minute indications. The saga of the UR-103 thus comes to an end with the ultimate appearance of this last model, a model that is ethereal, nearly celestial. With this, the UR-103 joins the stars. Long live URWERK. O
Co llectio n
RUE R OYALE CALIBRE ROYAL featuring multiple integrated complications. Fully designed and built
in Pequignet’s Haute Horlogerie laboratory. This unique 13 ¾ Calibre, with a maximum thickness of just 5.88 mm, houses all complications on its original main plate: Double Large Day and Date Windows, 88-hour Power Reserve Indicator, Large Moon Phase and dual direction automatic winding system. 21,600 oscillations/hour (3 Hz). Initial force distribution by a central large barrel axis. High-inertia large balance with compensating screws. These features create an exceptionally accurate and reliable timepiece. This masterpiece of watchmaking innovation and technology represents Plato’s “Beauty is the splendour of the truth”. Head Office Contact: pleibundgut@pequignet.com - Tel. ++ 33 (0)3 81 67 30 66 www.pequignet.com
"ASEL7ORLD (ALL s "OOTH #
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Maurice Lacroix returns to the basics RPierre Maillard
F
For Maurice Lacroix, now led by Martin Bachmann (who, after the departure of Philippe Merk to Audemars Piguet, inaugurated his new position as CEO in the midst of much economic turmoil), the year 2010 is one of a ‘return to basics’. What does this mean for Maurice Lacroix or, in other words, what exactly are the ‘basics’ of the brand? “From a design point of view, it means capitalizing on our timeless image of purity and classicism and interpreting it in contemporary forms,” explains Martin Bachmann. “This year, we are moving towards simplicity and are removing the Roman numerals and the strongly structured dials in favour of softer lines. In terms of price and positioning, our
Martin Bachmann
objective is to offer what I would call ‘democratic luxury.’ In watchmaking, ‘luxury’ means mechanical movements, which is what makes up our entire 2010 collection. ‘Democratic’ means affordable price ranges, which have always been one of the basics of our brand even though we had strayed slightly, now we are returning to this. This is especially true today as the consumer has become more aware of the price/quality ratio and is also wary of communication that is purely marketing-oriented.”
PONTOS DÉCENTRIQUE LUNAR PHASES and PONTOS POWER RESERVE
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“So, our Pontos line sells for around 2,000 CHF for the entry-level model while the Pontos Day Date peaks at around 7,900 CHF for the limited series (500 pieces) version of the exceptional Pontos Décentrique Lunar Phases timepiece,” he continues. “In between is the Pontos Power Reserve with a price tag of 2,950 CHF. Other examples include the Classique collection for which we are introducing new functions, for example, an automatic chronograph at 2,400 CHF, and the Classique Lunar Phases version selling at 3,300 CHF. Another return to our basics is the introduction of a Classic Retrograde Days watch with the retrograde display of the large date and day, a specialty that has been ours for the last 30 years. The essential, for us, is to reduce the number of models while creating a red line of identity throughout all our collections.”
Verticalization is a responsibility Moreover, Martin Bachman adds that he wants to continue along the track, already well underway, of verticalizing the brand’s production. Admitting, in all transparency, that as the company begins 2010, the company still has partial unemployment, but that he strongly reaffirms his determined commitment to industrial verticalization. The brand’s
PONTOS FULL BLACK
CLASSIC AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH, CLASSIC LUNAR PHASE
manufacture in Franches Montagnes and the case producer, Quéloz, are both firmly anchored in the Maurice Lacroix group and remain open to all collaboration with third parties. “On this point, I am in agreement with Nicolas Hayek, and feel that it is our responsibility as a watchmaker, who claims legitimacy, to develop all the necessary production tools,” insists Bachmann. On a commercial level, how does he see the coming year? “If we analyze in detail our 2009 results,” he goes on to explain, “we realize that many markets only declined a small amount in terms of the number of pieces sold. Some even saw slight growth, such as China and other Asian countries. Christmas 2009 was relatively okay. Having said that, however, the process of recapturing our exports is going to be rather long since retailers are going to sell off their stocks first, so it will be some time before the demand reaches manufacturers again. We are still lacking visibility on some markets. I think notably
CLASSIC RETROGRADE DAY
of Eastern Europe. The gradual recovery of the markets is also going to be rather long because we are facing a more profound change than we thought and are seeing structural corrections. But our 2010 offer has been rethought in order to try and respond to those questions that have been left dangling.” What has happened to the famous Mémoire1 that we have all been waiting for? Martin Bachmann is adamant: “We are going to make it, but we will take our time to achieve it. Today, people don’t want to hear pure marketing noise, so we will not communicate anything on this exceptional piece until it is ready to be produced and delivered.” But while waiting for the Mémoire1, Martin Bachmann did offer a small bone—a “very amazing and playful” surprise—he teases, that will be unveiled at BaselWorld. Its codename is also mysterious: RuKW. For now, we know nothing more. O For more information about Maurice Lacroix click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
SPOTLIGHT
MILUS TIRION RÉPÉTITION MINUTES TRIRETROGRADE At BaselWorld 2010, Milus will be presenting the TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde, a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship. After two years of intensive development, the traditional Biel company is launching this prestige watch as a limited edition of 50; an extraordinary milestone in the corporate history of the Swiss watch brand. With the minute repetition complication, combined with a date indication and the fascinating play of the tri-retrograde seconds display, that is characteristic of Milus, the company has achieved a high-precision and very ambitious timepiece in line with its philosophy. Over 400 individual parts of the clockwork movement are put together entailing more than 140 hours of meticulous work by watchmakers of the highest reputation. Each component is decorated by hand and is tested repeatedly beforehand in terms of form and composition in order to optimise the sound quality and the functional precision of the watch.
SPOTLIGHT
www.milus.com
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The American dream RPierre Maillard
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Raymond Weil has been present on the American market since 1978 and it is estimated that some 2.2 million Raymond Weil watches are being worn in the United States today. This is an indication of the importance of the accumulated experience that the family-owned brand has in this particular market, which is and should remain the Number One market for the Geneva watch brand.
New subsidiary From the beginning of Raymond Weil’s presence there, the American market has been managed by Beny Shabtai. Last autumn, the brand decided, however, to take direct control of this territory. Olivier Bernheim, the brand’s CEO, has taken over as head of the new subsidiary located on Madison Avenue in New York City. His son Pierre is in charge of sales,
Elie Bernheim, Pierre Bernheim and Olivier Bernheim...
while his other son Elie manages the brand’s marketing. Administrative duties for the USA as well as the Caribbean and Mexico (two very important markets for Raymond Weil) are handled by José Roman. The move to take back control of the overall structure has involved a number of changes on a market that, as everyone agrees, has suffered greatly, sagging under the weight of accumulated stocks during the preceding economic downturn. “But the USA is and will remain an incredibly dynamic market,” explains Pierre
Bernheim enthusiastically, adding that in just a few months he has personally visited, “more than 60 per cent of the 900 stores that we work with. We closed 70 stores that did not meet our criteria but we have plans to open 100 new ones.” For Olivier Bernheim, the advantages of the brand are many. “In the United States, the name Raymond Weil is very well known and is very well established. It is the symbol of affordable luxury, and is intrinsically linked to Swiss timekeeping. American retailers place the
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notion of independence at the head of their list of values—more than 50 per cent are independents themselves. They detest being pressured, are wary of large groups, and are generally staunchly loyal. Our personal and family involvement on this market thus involves a primordial factor of trust. They know that we are working for the long term and that we are building together in an open spirit of partnership. Like them, we are independent and, like they often are, we are also a family company. We therefore have a relationship of mutual trust between people with similar values. And that is irreplaceable.” “Most of them,” quickly adds Pierre Bernheim, “act the same way with their own clientele. They are ‘the jeweller on the corner’ and maintain close relationships with their customers. The American client is very demanding. They detest arrogance. They want to be well received and recognized, and they feel that they have the right to competent and impeccable service. The American retailer is the same. It is generally someone who knows his clientele perfectly well, often personally; someone who is very structured, very analytical and manages the stores like real profit centres. American retailers know what they are buying, why, and for whom, and they abhor duplication. In a store in the U.S., the segmentation of brands is clearly established.”
An even greater potential Raymond Weil’s flagship collection on the American market is without a doubt the Parsifal, whose average price reaches a surprising US$2,000. When asked about the brand’s current positioning, Olivier Bernheim replies that American retailers themselves estimate that the ideal offer for Raymond Weil watches in the years to come “should be around US$650 to US$1,500, with a high point of US$3,250 for certain special products. Despite the economic crisis that is still severely affecting this nation, the potential for growth is enormous. There is a
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NABUCCO “VA PENSIERO”
lot to be done, especially in the mechanical watch domain since quartz continues to largely dominate the market and the watchmaking culture is still often in its embryonic stage.” “But the fact that we stopped all deliveries during the transition between our former distribution structure and our new organization gives us a very interesting advantage,” continues Olivier Bernheim, “because we are now re-supplying our retailers with a global package, notably at the level of after-sales service, packaging, corners, and shop-in-shop concepts that they did not have before. We are offering them a complete brand environment,
evoking luxury according to Raymond Weil, that will reach them at the same time as a series of new models. It is on these new models that we are concentrating the main efforts of our communication, essentially through billboards. We have thus been able to re-launch an important dynamic, relayed in a continuous manner by our presence in the field, a terrain criss-crossed with a dozen representatives, themselves supported by 50 people in New York, of which 20 are watchmakers solely dedicated to after-sales service.” O For more information about Raymond Weil click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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New steps in the renaissance of Vulcain RPierre Maillard
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The Vulcain brand, whose rebirth started in 2002, is due essentially to the vision of Bernard Fleury. At the end of 2009, the brand was acquired by the group, Suisse Excellence Holding, whose portfolio also includes the famous Swiss retailer, Les Ambassadeurs, as well as the small high-end watch brand, Jaermann & Stübi. Bernard Fleury, as initiator of this renaissance, was not a large shareholder in the brand but he still remains firmly at the commands. This is good news since Fleury has, with discretion, consistency and a large degree of coherence, made the ‘new’ Vulcain a brand with a strong identity whose commercial success is underway. Fleury will now have renewed means for communication that will certainly allow him to confirm this success. This is especially true in the current climate since the proposed pieces offer very interesting price/quality ratios, with prices ranging from 4,000 CHF to 9,000 CHF. Vulcain is also present today in 170 points of sale around the world, which adds to its important advantages in this period of economic uncertainty. VCRICKET X-TREME AUTOMATIC – Titanium and steel
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The new CRICKET V-21 self-winding movement
First automatic Cricket The majority of the brand’s sales remain nonetheless centred on the watch icon, the Cricket. After the relaunch in 2002, changes have been made to this alarm watch every year. The Cricket first saw the light of day in 1947 but, up to now, it had always been a manual-winding timepiece. Yet, already in 2002, Bernard Fleury envisioned an automatic Cricket. Moving from a manual-winding to an automatic movement, however, was not as simple as all that, mainly because of how the alarm chime functions. In the traditional model, the chime was activated by a hammer that would strike the case back. For the automatic version, it was necessary for the constructors to make major changes in the basic movement, and the result is the calibre V-21, which has 257 components instead of the manual-winding movement’s 157 parts. For the chime, an arm was added that strikes an anvil supported by a balancespring stud passing through the centre of the rotor. The entire calibre has a total thickness of only 17.5 mm. Featuring an Exomatic system assuring regular amplitude and thus better precision, equipped with a uni-directional rotor mounted on ball bearings, this new and very finely finished movement also has a new date that can be corrected using a pushbutton located at 10 o’clock. With its 42-hour power reserve, the new V-21 movement is first being used in the very sporty Cricket X-Treme, with a 44-mm steel and titanium case, mounted on a vulcanized
CRICKET X-TREME AUTOMATIC – black treated titanium and steel
rubber strap. Water-resistant to 100 metres, it also features a black dial, SuperLuminova hands and markers, as well as a rotating bezel graduated into 60 minutes. The price is 8,000 CHF, which, for a rare diver’s alarm watch, is quite well calibrated. To celebrate its anniversary, 300 watches have been created in a limited edition of a titanium and blacked stainless steel case with a black and blue dial, creating a very dramatic effect.
very limited, notably on the brand’s traditional Asian markets.” This was also confirmed to us by Geneva retailer, Denis Asch, who has been loyal to the brand since its rebirth. Vulcain’s good commercial standing,” explains Asch, “is not only because of its authenticity and its good price positioning, but also because of the excellence of its after-sales service. This service is rapid—ten days on average—and the cost is quite correct, which is, by far, not the case for all watchmakers.”O
Excellence in after-sales service According to Bernard Fleury, “2009 was a fairly good year for Vulcain, as damage was
For more information about Vulcain click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Ernest Borel is moving and shaking RSophie Furley
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Things have certainly been busy at Ernest Borel these last few months, what with the inauguration of the company’s new facility in Le Noirmont, a new management team and two fresh collections for BaselWorld, the company is moving and shaking. Just a few months ago, Europa Star was present to witness the inauguration of the new Ernest Borel workshops in the beautiful village of Le Noirmont in the Jura mountains. The company has converted a local manor house with a state-or-the-art extension. The need for larger premises had quickly become a necessity as the company’s annual production had jumped from a few thousand pieces to over 60,000 timepieces per year. During the inauguration ceremony, we were also to learn that the company’s CEO, Mr. Raphaël Boillat was retiring and handing the reins over to his daughter Nathalie who is now expertly running things and launching
ROMANCE COLLECTION
BRAQUE COLLECTION
two attractive new collections for BaselWorld this year. The first novelty is the Romance Collection for both ladies and gentleman. These elegant and modern, square-shaped timepieces are equipped with Swiss Made automatic movements. Both models have dials with a circular design, indicate the hours, the minutes, the seconds and the date (at six o’clock), have
sapphire crystals front and back and are water resistant to 50 metres. The second introduction for BaselWorld is the Braque Collection, which, like the Romance Collection, is available in two different sizes for ladies and gentlemen, and is fitted with Swiss Made automatic movements. The case and bracelet come in two-tone stainless steel and the dials are set with diamonds (13 diamonds for the men’s watch and eight diamonds for the ladies’ timepiece). For those who are not familiar with the brand. Ernest Borel was founded in 1856 by Jules Borel and Paul Courvoisier and stayed in the Borel family for over a century before being bought by the Synchron Group, Aubry Frères and then Mr. Steven Lam, the current owner. The company restarted its production in 1997 and now enjoys strong recognition in China, the Middle East and some European countries and is looking to expand to the United States With its 150 years of history, solid new structure and attractive mechanical timepieces, Ernest Borel is certainly a brand to keep your eye on. O For more information about Ernst Borel click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
TESTED BEYOND
ENDURANCE
ALT1-C/BK
Bremont is a British company making beautifully engineered mechanical timepieces that are hand assembled at their dedicated atelier in Switzerland.
www.bremont.com
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Ventura returns to life RPierre Maillard
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Don’t look for the Ventura stand in the hallways of BaselWorld. It is not there. But you may, however, run across Pierre Nobs in the corridors of the show or find him at the Watch Factory. If you remember, Ventura is a unique kind of watch brand, which made a great impression thanks to its mix of avant-gardism and pure and hard design. But after some difficulties, Nobs was forced to close the company’s doors. This was barely three years ago, right in the middle of the crazy years of watchmaking bling-bling, a time that was not really characterized by its rigour or minimalism. In addition, Pierre Nobs did not give in to the provocative V-TEC® ZETA
Hannes Wettstein
Pierre Nobs
Paolo Fancelli
siren calls to move upmarket at all cost(s). The brand remained reasonable, even if it developed a number of innovations in-house as well as some of its own movements. As an example, remember Ventura’s last watches: the digital vtec Zeta, created by designer, Paolo Fancelli, and the v-tec Kappa, credited to Hannes Wettstein. Both timepieces were equipped with the in-house calibre VEN_04 that comprised an ingenious timekeeping innovation, the patented EasySkroll, a scrolling roller allowing direct and intuitive access to all the functions of the watch. But that was in 2007, less than three years ago. Since then the watchmaking bubble has burst and the offerings of Ventura, which during those years were ahead of their time, are now finding that they are relevant again. Along with this comes a certain commercial attraction. Investors therefore approached Pierre Nobs; a board was set up (which includes Paul Junod, ex-Milus, also a visionary) and Ventura is now being relaunched. So, why isn’t the brand exhibiting at BaselWorld? According to Pierre Nobs, some problems have arisen, notably regarding the intermediaries—importers— “only a few are left who are willing to play the game; they just want to order merchandise that has already been sold.”
V-TEC® KAPPA
Thus, Ventura now plans to either deal directly with retailers or to sell online, which the brand has been doing to sell off its remaining and very sought-after stocks (at discounts of around 25 per cent) while waiting to strike out on its new adventures. These will certainly involve the ‘hybridization between mechanical and digital functions’. The return that we are seeing in the watch universe to ‘substance’ and ‘content’, tied to design classicism, should play in Ventura’s favour this time. Yet, let’s not expect any commemorative or nostalgic return to the past. It is towards the future with new propositions that Ventura plans to return to the marketplace. The brand will take its time, and hopefully it will be the right time, while advancing forward. A difficult task, but one that should be strongly encouraged. O For more information about Ventura click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
BASELWORLD 2010 Hall 1.1 Booth A81
MONTRES DOXA SA 2500 BIENNE SWITZERLAND, www.doxa.ch
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The Chanel J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse: a surprising technique at the service of design RVincent Daveau
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The presentation of the new complicated J12 watch by Chanel was like a small explosion. In keeping with the brand’s DNA, the new J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse has a case that combines high-tech ceramic with 18 carat gold. Yet, the unusual and contemporary dimensions of its 47-mm dial also command respect. But this is not the only surprising feature of this remarkable demonstration of advanced technology. It is offered in a limited series of only ten numbered watches in black ceramic and white gold, and ten pieces in black ceramic and pink gold, as well as a single timepiece in white ceramic and white gold. Subtly disconcerting, these 21 rare creations have broken with the codes of classic watchmaking to explore a new way to display the time. They also envision the future of mechanical timekeeping with an innovative way of winding its manual calibre, developed exclusively for Chanel by Renaud & Papi.
A new way of winding Chanel’s desire to offer a watch with a perfectly round case meant that their engineers had to come up with a new place for the crown. The solution was to position the crown vertically rather than the normal lateral placement. By integrating the crown at 3 o’clock on the dial, and therefore at the heart of the movement, Chanel found itself with the difficult task of rethinking both the mode of operation of the winding system as well as the
mode of display that was now disrupted by this new technical element. To maintain a harmonious and purely round design, the brand’s watchmakers integrated the crown into the case, right through the sapphire crystal, leaving only the strict minimum protruding to be pushed by a finger. Once pushed it moves upward, as if by magic, where the crown is used to wind the watch or to set the time easily even when the watch is
on the wrist. Before doing one of these operations, it is indispensable to first select the desired function. Thus, to wind the two barrels of this calibre, guaranteeing 10 days of power reserve, you must first press firmly on one of the twelve ceramic inserts that are placed around the bezel of this precious timekeeper. The ceramic insert used for winding is situated at 4 o’clock and the ceramic insert used for setting the time is located at 2 o’clock.
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a unique display, letting him concentrate on the various elements in this unusual spatial representation.
A new mode of construction
A new way of reading the time Because it is incorporated into the decorative elements of the watch, this selector mechanism, made of ceramic inserts, is invisible. Of a rare simplicity, it is nonetheless highly robust since the ceramic segments move the interior cones whose sides tangentially push the activating rockers. After pushing the ceramic insert at 2 o’clock, the crown can be rotated to move the hands. It is during this initial contact that the J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse becomes a true objet d’art. The watch’s display mode, while seemingly conventional at first, is in fact totally surprising. After displaying the first ten minutes in a classic fashion, the minute hand reaches the crown, which blocks its way. It then begins to regress or move backwards. During the following minutes, the minute hand continues its backward journey until it reaches minute 20 on the dial. It makes this reverse journey in exactly ten minutes, thus covering each five minute segment on the dial in one minute of movement. During this strange journey, the
hour indicator remains correct but what happens to the minutes display between 11 to 19? The solution was to use a digital display located under a small loupe at 5 o’clock that registers the minutes from 11 to 19. When the minute hand regresses to the 20-minute mark, it then continues analogically along its normal path, while the digital display goes blank. At first glance, as disconcerting as it is profoundly original, this concept offers its wearer
Let’s talk a bit about the geometry of the space. We must say that the Chanel’s RMT-10 calibre is endowed under its very classic appearance with a tourbillon escapement composed of 85 elements with a very contemporary architecture, due in part to the atypical placement of the retractable and patented crown at the heart of the movement. Very different from the usual display, this 10-day manual-winding mechanical movement features a main plate and bridges made of hightech ceramic. This is, however, not the only futuristic material used by the brand in this timepiece. Among the 315 carefully finished components, there are various original parts machined from materials of the future. As an example, the bridge of the double barrel and the retrograde mechanism are made of black anodically inactivated (eloxided) aluminium, a metal also used for the digital minute indicator disc. Titanium is employed for the bridge of the trailing minutes. Assuredly futuristic, this watch totally incarnates the orientation Chanel has adopted: place the technical at the service of the aesthetic. And, it is a strong bet that some of the advanced technologies found in this completely original watch will be found in series watches in a few years. Definitely a watch to follow! O For more information about Chanel click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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First collections by Pequignet to be equipped with the Calibre Royal RPierre Maillard
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Europa Star has already presented in detail the new and very innovative automatic movement developed by Pequignet under the code name of EPM01 (see Europa Star 6/2009). Now, this new calibre is equipping the brand’s new collections, and has taken on the new name of Calibre Royal. Just as a reminder, the Calibre Royal is an automatic movement with 21,600 oscillations per hour (3 Hz), made up of 298 components
CALIBRE ROYAL
that were entirely conceived, designed, prototyped, tested and assembled in Pequignet’s ateliers in Morteau, France. Its principal characteristics make this an exceptional automatic movement, which has been totally integrated
and designed to receive, without additional plates, new complications: automatic winding in both directions; diffusion of the initial force by a central barrel axis; large balance with compensating screws; large date and day with no loss of amplitude when they are activated; calculated power reserve of 100 hours; indication on the dial of 88 hours of power reserve with isochronism guaranteed for 72 hours (220° amplitude in the vertical position after 72 hours of operation) and small seconds hand at 4 o’clock in a symmetrical position relative to the power reserve indicator. (For more details, refer to our article cited above.)
Paris Royal
PARIS ROYAL
On the occasion of its launch at BaselWorld 2010, the Calibre Royal (now in full industrial production with 3,000 pieces expected this year) will equip three new models. In its most prestigious housing, with haute horlogerie finishings—circular-graining, hand-bevelling, hand-drawn strokes and stippling—the Calibre Royal drives the very lovely and classic Paris Royal timepiece. The Paris Royal features a 41-mm yellow gold case with alternating diamond-polished and satin finishes on the middle case, elegant overlaid horns, screw-in bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and case back and water-resistance to 50 metres.
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The Paris Royal’s dial is silvered with a satinfinished chapter ring and applied Arabic numerals. The dial also features azure areas for the power reserve indicator and the small seconds and facetted apertures for the large date and day. The ensemble perfectly evokes the symmetrical equilibrium of the movement and the high readability of its indications. Paris Royal is mounted on a hand-stitched and beaded large-scale alligator leather strap with a butterfly clasp.
Rue Royale The Rue Royale model, embellished with a large, high-precision moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, comes in a polished 316L stainless steel case with a diameter of 42 mm. The finishing on this model is somewhat different than the Paris Royal and includes: circulargrained bridges and a main plate with snail design and the Côtes de Genève decoration, as well as a sun ray finish and rhodium plating on the oscillating weight. The dial is silvered and textured and features a chapter ring and small seconds in a fine circular satin finish, black transferred Roman numerals, dotted thread and a power reserve indicator in a circular satin-finished cartridge.
RUE ROYALE
Moorea Royal Triomphe Last but not least, the Moorea Royal Triomphe offers a sportier version in a 44-mm Moorea case composed of a sanded black titanium middle case and case back and a screw-in crown in red gold with the logo ‘EP’ in black rubber. Water resistant to 100 metres, the Moorea Royal Triomphe has a black opaline dial with facetted and brushed applied numerals, a power reserve indicator and small seconds in an aperture overlaid with red gold appliqué. This model is mounted on the famous Moorea grained satin-finished red gold and rubber strap with a double folding clasp. There is no doubt that this year at BaselWorld, Pequignet will keep its promises made last year and will attract attention from a lot of people, and impress many more. O For more information about Pequignet click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
MOOREA ROYAL TRIOMPHE
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The ARM09 by Armin Strom, the brand’s first in-house movement RPierre Maillard
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Europa Star learned earlier about the creation of a new manufacture, small in size, certainly, but very well designed and organized—the Manufacture Armin Strom, in Bienne (see issue 5/09). The fruits of this investment (with the backing of Armin Strom’s new major shareholder Michel, an industrial family that also supports the arts) are now being harvested in the form of a lovely manual winding calibre, the ARM09 (standing for ArminRéserveMarche09). This manual movement is equipped with a power reserve of eight days and responds to two requirements: a movement that not only meets strict criteria for quality and chronometry, but also one that is intrinsically ‘beautiful’. In other words, a movement whose architecture offers optimal visibility of the mechanism. “We wanted the house movement, however technical it might be, to perfectly reflect the visual identity and the design choices of the brand,” explains Serge Michel, the young president of the new entity. At his sides, Armin Strom agrees. Rightfully, so since
he has built his entire reputation on being the undisputed master of the skeleton watch.
Classic and modern architecture While the ARM09 movement is very well balanced and perfectly visually designed, it also meets the technical criteria that Claude Greisler, the constructor who joined the team
three years ago, has made his sacred duty— and pleasure—to develop. Certain technical characteristics are, in this regard, very illuminating. One example is the innovative manual winding mechanism whose ratchet wheels turn towards the dial, thus offering a direct view of the gear train as it begins to move. The winding is carried out using two barrels
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(each includes a pull spring with a total length of 1.8 mm and a blade width of 0.88 mm). Mounted in series, these two barrels are made of a brass that was specially developed in order to facilitate the gearing of brass on brass. They transmit their impulsion to the wheels that were also specifically developed for this project. Their pinions are hardened to the core and their teeth are polished, while the specific shape of each tooth has been precision cut using CNC technology. The pallets and escapement wheel are in solid gold, notably for reasons of friction and the gold screw balance comprises four braced steel adjusting screws to regulate the moment of inertia. The calibre also includes a curved Breguet balance spring (the balance spring
comes from Precision Engineering, increasingly being used by small high performing brands). The ARM09, whose differential power reserve is eight days, beats at a low frequency of 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vibrations per hour (a combination of high inertia and low frequency—a guarantee of good operational results). This calibre also comprises 146 component parts and 34 jewels specially developed for Armin Strom. Its diameter is 36.6 mm and its thickness is 6.2 mm (16 1/2''').
A matter of positioning Having established a reputation for the aesthetic quality of the brand’s timepieces, Armin Strom could do nothing less for the finishing of its first in-house calibre. A dec-
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oration atelier was installed in the same locale to provide hand chamfering, Côtes de Genève pattern, trimming, circular-graining and even hand engraving—one of the specialties of Armin Strom. All of this attention offers each movement, besides its very rigorous architecture that is both modern and respectful of tradition, a level of finishing in keeping with the high aesthetic criteria of the brand. For Serge Michel—this is his first major adventure into the world of watches—this movement must, above all, help position Armin Strom more precisely in the watchmaking hierarchy. Situated between the large integrated manufactures and the renowned historic brands, Armin Strom wants to be recognized for what it is today—a high quality brand that, from an aesthetic point of view, is unlike any other and that, beyond its visual identity, can offer an exclusive particularity: an in-house movement produced entirely at the brand’s own manufacture. This initiative is even more encouraging since we know that the years to come will see much more tension in the domain of the movement. Armin Strom has certainly chosen the right road to follow. O For more information about Armin Strom click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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The remarkable talents of Vincent Bérard RPierre Maillard
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Last autumn, Vincent Bérard inaugurated his new manufacture whose ateliers are located in a bucolic former farm of a watchmakerfarmer, not far from La Chaux-de-Fonds. These new workshops, dedicated essentially to the preparation, assembly and elaborate handdecoration of the component parts, will permit Vincent Bérard and his twenty or so associates to produce around one hundred timekeepers per year. While this production still seems to be rather private, it testifies to a veritable and important commercial development of the brand under the leadership of Herbert Gautschi. His efforts are supported by the Timex group (TGBV), which seems to be quite determined to ensure the long-term development of the brand and to make it an exceptional showcase. To produce some one hundred timekeepers of such high quality and originality is in itself already a major feat. The timekeeping of Vincent Bérard, as much an artist as a watchmaker, is remarkably demanding. He is much like a sculptor who desires to submit the function to the form that he sculpts.
TALISMANE 2 PLATINUM OCTALE
For Bérard, the decoration is not simply to adorn and complete the parts in such or such a way but, rather, it must be an intrinsic part of the aesthetic-technical design of the movement and the case. Objets d'art, his watches are also architectural objects of watchmaking, if we might say, in which no element or form is gratuitous. In testimony to this particularly spectacular method is the totally original construction of the VB 441 movement, whose spindle-shaped bridges are arranged in steps and decorated with a vibrant, ringed guilloché pattern. An intense man, one ‘haunted’ by an interior quest, Vincent Bérard has thus succeeded in
‘haunting’ his watches and giving them a very particular presence that comes from the exceptional coherence with which they are designed and manufactured.
Talismane, a watch to caress Two new pieces can be cited as exemplary of this approach—the Luvorene 2 and the Talismane. Let us begin with the latter. The Talismane is a new species of timekeeper—it is neither a wristwatch nor a pocket watch. Therefore, it has neither lugs nor a bow. It is a watch to caress, to feel, we might say, to hold in your hand, to slide into a pocket. It is an intimate object, a masculine or feminine
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TALISMANE, SUMMER
‘talisman’, measuring 45 mm in diameter, that Vincent Bérard makes available either in a single collection—the Talismane 1 Quatre Saisons—or in a limited series, the Talismane 2 Platinum Octale. For the Talismane 1 Quatre Saisons, the timekeepers are available in green, yellow, red or white gold along with the matching gemstones of emeralds, yellow sapphires, rubies or blue sapphires for the spring, summer, autumn and winter versions. The Talismane 2 Platinum Octale line comes in platinum with a spectacular reticulated guilloché design. In both of these collections, we find the famous mysterious balance that is off-centred at 3 o’clock—whose balance-cock is sculpted in a motif emblematic of each season, or denuded in the platinum version—and the dials for small seconds, lunar phases and days of the week. On the opening back are two glass eyepieces that let the wearer see the small dorsal seconds hand and the power reserve hand. A ‘secret’, however, allows the wearer to open the back cover and discover the decorative splendour with which each movement has been specifically worked.
Masterful decoration The Luvorene 2 collection is an evolution of the Fuseau de l'Infini line whose case in white or red gold now measures 45 mm in diameter. If
we find all those elements characteristic of Vincent Bérard’s method of timekeeping (mysterious balance; crown at 9 o’clock; the mandorla comprising lugs, hands and indices; LUVORENE 2
NEW MOVEMENTS 77
opening case back; spindle-shaped bridges), the openings in the dial allow one to admire the gears, levers and springs that drive the functions. This allows the wearer to directly see the result, for example, of winding the piece or correcting the time, as well as the exceptional decorative and architectural work that make these watches such remarkable objects. They also confirm that Vincent Bérard occupies a place apart in the world of haute horlogerie. Indifferent to the fashions and trends of the day, he affirms the uniqueness of his own lines with a rare self-assurance. Another rarity in the world of timekeeping: this man seems to have all the time in front of him. O For more information about Vincent Bérard click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Omega’s watchmaking central RKeith W. Strandberg
T
This year, Omega is really taking things to the next level with the captivating Skeletonized Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition. This new tourbillon is placed in the centre of the watch, with the hour and minute hands on sapphire crystal discs, as in a mystery watch. Omega claims to be the only watchmaker ever to have placed the tourbillon in the center of the watch. Fabricated at the Cellule Haut de Gamme (Omega’s tourbillon workshop) in Bienne by the brand’s master watchmakers, the timepiece is skeletonized by hand (up to 540 hours of work), making each of the 18 limited editions are unique. The Co-Axial tourbillon movement is COSC-certified and is made up of 320 parts. During the production process, each master watchmaker engraves his or her personal initials SPEEDMASTER LADIES 38MM
SKELETONIZED CENTRAL TOURBILLON CO-AXIAL PLATINUM LIMITED EDITION
on the underside of the tourbillon base to ensure that all parts can be returned to the right watchmaker after they have been treated. In the future, when a Central Tourbillon is returned to Omega for servicing, it will be placed in the hands of the original watchmaker. The second timepiece to be introduced at BaselWorld is the Speedmaster Ladies 38mm, a watch that puts the rugged Speedmaster chronograph, the watch that went to the moon, in a smaller size with a softer edge, adorned with diamonds around the bezel. Powered by the Omega calibre 3304 self-winding mechanical movement, the Speedmaster Ladies 38mm is the best of both worlds. O For more information about Omega click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
BY
Regulator Fire
Baselworld, Hall 1.1, Booth A11
ARMIN by ARMIN STROM presents: A regulator series for
with hand-winding remains visible through the sapphire
which a complete movement structure has been developed
crystal case back. The series – limited to 100 pieces per
in its own Swiss ateliers. The retrograde date display is the
model – includes WATER, AIR, EARTH and FIRE, available
principal element of this watch, whose hour, minute and
in titanium. The four elements are reflected in the design
second indications are positioned out of center. With the
and natural coloring of these very technical yet aesthetical
opening beside the small second hand the concept of
balanced timepieces.
skeletonising is retained and the hand-engraved movement
arminstrom.com
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TAG Heuer celebrates 150 years, introduces the 1887 chronograph and the Silverstone RKeith W. Strandberg
2
2010 marks 150 years of TAG Heuer, which was founded in 1860. Celebrating its growth from a small workshop in the Swiss Jura mountains to one of the most important companies in the industry, TAG Heuer has published a massive book, called ‘TAG Heuer 150 Years’. “History begins every morning,” says JeanChristophe Bain, President and CEO of TAG Heuer, in the book’s introduction. “Recognized throughout the world for its luxury sports watches and pioneering work in chronographs, TAG Heuer watches epitomize prestige and performance, brilliantly fusing technology with design. TAG Heuer has revolutionized 150 years of watchmaking history through a constant pursuit of excellence and innovation, maintaining a strong link between the company of today and the people who have shaped its history.” It’s only fitting that this year, TAG Heuer introSILVERSTONE CHRONOGRAPH
CARRERA CALIBRE 1887 CHRONOGRAPH
duces two new chronographs. Long identified with auto racing and still active in many different sports, including Formula 1, golf and tennis through its ambassadors, TAG Heuer introduces the Calibre 1887. Clean and distinctive, this automatic chronograph is available in very classic combinations – silvered or black dial with alligator strap or steel bracelet, the
Carrera Calibre 1887 chronograph is a welcome addition to the TAG Heuer collection. The Silverstone chronograph is a tribute to TAG Heuer’s tradition of chronographs, named after the iconic racetrack in Great Britain (home to the British Grand Prix and Formula One). This watch was originally launched in 1969 featuring the Chronomatic Calibre 11 automatic movement (developed with DuboisDépraz, Breitling and Hamilton-Büren), and it was the world’s first automatic chronograph with a micro rotor. To keep the same chronograph configuration of the original (pushers, counters, crown), TAG Heuer’s new Silverstone model uses the Calibre 11 with a DuboisDépraz module. As a nod to the first model, this Silverstone uses the same case shape and the traditional HEUER logo, with the Silverstone name on the original blue or brown dial. This edition is limited to 3,000 pieces. O For more information about TAG Heuer click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Bertolucci - romance for the girls, sport for the boys RSophie Furley
B
Bertolucci has released two new attractive collections for 2010. The first is the Serena Garbo Valentina, which came out in the stores in time for Valentine’s day, and the second is the Forza Collection, a resolutely modern and sporty masculine line. The Valentina model is equipped with a Swiss quartz movement and is adorned with a brand new dial that includes a loose heart set with 14 pink sapphires (0.07 carats) and applied indexes. The base of the dial is made of curved white-silvered opaline and has an off-centred curved sunray pattern and central oval minute track with ‘BERTOLUCCI’ printed in black at 12 o’clock. The stainless steel case is set with full cut VVS / FGH diamonds (0.61
carats) and a curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Other special features include an elegant ‘B’ logo at 12 o’clock and a shocking pink alligator and calf leather strap with pink stitching. For the gents, Bertolucci has created a masculine black collection for the lovers of watch mechanics and strong design. Like with all Bertolucci’s timepieces, the case is inspired by the shape of a pebble, which makes the timepiece extremely comfortable to wear. The all black PVD case holds one of three automatic
movements: a chronograph with tachometer scale, three-hand calibre with big date and power reserve indication or a three-hand movement with day and date counters and power reserve indication. Dials are available in jet-black opaline, to match the case, or a contrasting white silvered opaline, both with touches of red to accentuate the sporty look. Both collections present great new designs for the brand’s retailers and fans. O For more information about Bertolucci click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
Jules Borel Collection Model GK9238-4929BR automatic 18K pink Gold watch Rhodium plated movement Geneva waves, Blue screws Power reserve, Day and reverse date indication Anti-reflection front Sapphire glass See through back with Sapphire crystal Genuine alligator leather strap Water resistant to 50 meters
ERNEST BOREL S.A., C.P. 234, Rue des Perrières 8, CH-2340 Le Noirmont, Switzerland Tel : +41-(0)32-926 17 26 / Fax : +41-(0)32-926 17 29 / www.ernestborel.ch / info@ernestborel.ch
Please visit us during Baselworld 2010 18-25 March Hall of Emotions 5.1 Booth E-11
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Hublot is a hive of activity RKeith W. Strandberg
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The past year has been a big one for Hublot, from opening its new manufacturing facility to sponsoring defender Alinghi in the 33rd America’s Cup and hiring 30 watchmakers from the bankrupt complications house BNB, it wouldn’t be surprising if there was nothing new from Hublot on the watch side – after all, they were awfully busy. Thankfully, that’s not the case for BaselWorld, as the brand is introducing two new watches: The Gold King Power Tourbillon GMT and the Big Bang Tutti Frutti Rose, and more. The King Power Tourbillon GMT is the first Hublot tourbillon watch to feature a dual time zone indicator with a two-colour dial, which is set at the two o'clock position to allow the traveller to see the time in the place of his or her choice. The second introduction, The King Power Tourbillon GMT, has a retrograde date display at nine o'clock. GOLD KING POWER TOURBILLON GMT
BIG BANG TUTTI FRUTTI ROSE
The gold colour of this watch is completely unique, the result of a newly developed alloy made especially for this timepiece. The alloy is known as ‘King Gold’, and is created by adding 5 per cent platinum, distinguishing it from all other currently known alloys and making it all the more precious. The alloy’s microstructure is perfectly stable, making it durable and ensuring the long-lasting intense red colour. In a different shade of red, the new Big Bang Tutti Frutti features a mother-of-pearl dial, with a satin-finished case surrounded by pink sapphires and a matching pink alligator strap. After such a busy 2009, you can expect much more from Hublot in 2010. O For more information about Hublot click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Eterna and Porsche Design at BaselWorld
ETERNA CALIBRE 3510
RKeith W. Strandberg
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Located in Grenchen, Switzerland, Eterna has been in operation since 1856, quietly making high quality mechanical timepieces that include real innovation. Take, for example, the Madison Eight-Days, which has a power reserve of an incredible eight full days, thanks to the operating regularity of its new Eterna Spherodrive construction – a novel spring barrel design rotating on ball bearings. The Madison Eight-Days is powered by the hand-wound Eterna 3510 movement. This stylish watch will be available in Autumn 2010 from selected Eterna dealers. “The Eterna Spherodrive represents a revolutionary improvement to the mechanical ef-
ficiency as well as to the longevity and reliability of the watch movement”, explains Patrick Kury, Eterna Technical Director. “By fitting the spring barrel on ball bearings, Eterna engineers eliminated most of the problems caused by wear and tear at the exact point where the movement is subjected to the greatest pressure and friction. Also, the Eterna Spherodrive construction proved ideally suited to the pair of series-coupled spring barrels of the Madison Eight-Days’ Eterna 3510 calibre.” Providing 192 hours of power reserve, the handwound calibre 3510 with Eterna Spherodrive, 14 3/4 x 12 lines, 28,800 v.p.h., features 7 ball bearings, 22 jewels and a Glucydur balance wheel.
MADISON EIGHT-DAYS
HERITAGE P’6530
The Madison Eight-Days comes with a brown, grey or black Louisiana alligator strap, coordinated with the dial hue. Still an independent watch manufacturer, Eterna has long held the licence for the acclaimed Porsche Design watch collection. This year’s Porsche Design Timepiece is the Heritage P’6530 – a reissue of the classic chronograph in titanium and limited to 911 pieces. This watch is also the first watch in the exclusive new Heritage collection, to which will be added various models in the future. The original P’6530 was introduced in 1980 and was the first-ever titanium-built chronograph. The Heritage P’6530 has grown to 44mm as a nod to today’s market, but the style and design remain the same. The Heritage P’6530 is powered by the proven ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph calibre, COSC-certified and offering a power reserve of 48 hours. Like everything else produced by the brand, the Heritage P’6530 takes its cue from Ferdinand Alexander Porsche’s stated aim to create products capable of acting as ‘companions through life’. The creator of the legendary Porsche 911 in the early 60s is quoted as saying: “When you think about the function of something, its design sometimes emerges of its own accord.” The output of the Porsche Design Studio, founded in Zell am See, Austria, in 1972, has remained true to this idea. Today, the studio ranks among Europe’s most renowned design establishments, continuing to imbue its creations with the clarity, timelessness and distinctiveness so characteristic of all Porsche Design products. The Heritage P’6530 Titanium Chronograph comes with a booklet describing the history of the world’s first-ever titanium watch, and the timepiece will be released into the marketplace in the fourth quarter of 2010. O For more information about Eterna and Porsche Design click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
88 BRAND NEWS europa star
Carl F. Bucherer – More Patravi EvoTec models and Smart SimPlexity defined RKeith W. Strandberg
L
Last year, Carl F. Bucherer made a tremendous impact at BaselWorld with the introduction of its in-house movement, the CFB A1000. It was introduced in the Patravi Evotec DayDate, and this year two more models of the Evotec are debuting, also utilizing the CFB A1000 – the Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve and the ladies Patravi EvoTec. “The Evotec is becoming a family, using the CFB A1000 as the base movement,” says Thomas Morf, President, Carl F. Bucherer. “The PowerReserve is the most logical step for us, complications-wise. We will come out with an integrated chronograph down the road, but that is the Champions League of watchmaking, and we are working on it.” The Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve uses the same cushion shape as the DayDate, and adds a unique power reserve indication. The Ladies Patravi EvoTec marks the first time Carl F. Bucherer has used the new movement in a ladies model, a commitment to the growing mechanical watch for ladies segment. The EvoTec is not a collection, it’s a label that represents “Evolution Technology” and means that any watch with the EvoTec designation has Carl F. Bucherer’s in-house movement. Morf and Bucherer have come up with a new way to develop new complications and movements in a logical way. The brand calls it Smart SimPlexity, “This is our way of engineering,” Morf explains. “I think that the watch world is going in the wrong direction - everything can be engi-
PATRAVI EVOTEC POWERRESERVE
neered to be complicated, but I think it’s not about being complicated, it’s about having a smart solution. “I call what we include in our watches functions, not complications,” he continues. “If you undergo an operation and hear the word ‘complication,’ that’s not a good thing. Complicated is negatively loaded – we have a given function and we are trying to find a smart solution to it. If we decide to do a minute repeater, we will try to find a smart, simple solution. Why was
Porsche always winning awards with the 911? It was efficient, smart engineering –that’s how they developed cars. That’s how we do our watches. I want to stay away from what’s complicated, I don’t think it’s the right direction. We have a given task, a chronograph, for example, and we do it the smart way.” Smart SimPlexity – the perfect label for doing it the Carl F. Bucherer way. O For more information about Carl F. Bucherer click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
X VI II
A Grand Complication for timeless communications Baselworld, Hall 4.0, Booth A01 www.Celsius-X-VI-II.com
90 BRAND NEWS europa star
Century – A new campaign, the new men’s Elegance collection and much more RKeith W. Strandberg
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Century Time Gems has been making extraordinary watches with unique sapphire crystals for 44 years – and this year, the company will be introducing a new men’s line, called Elegance, as well as two new pieces, Grace Baguette and the Prime Time Egos Chrono Day & Date in black. “We have developed quite a lot of new watches, new jewellery and a new campaign,” says Philip Klingenberg, President, Century Time Gems Ltd. “All of it is based on our strategy to be in a world of modern luxury and romance. “We have a special way of producing sapphire, which we do in-house,” he continues. “This is something that we will keep on producing, and this is our specialty, part of our unique craftsmanship. It’s a very complex way of production and the quality is extremely high. The casing is
GRACE BAGUETTE
ELEGANCE
very solid and the sapphire keeps it beautiful forever. The sapphire crystal is part of the signature look of our watch, which makes us so different from all the other brands.” Century Time Gems isn’t selling watches, it’s selling gems that happen to tell time. “The watches are time jewels,” Klingenberg says. “They sparkle like jewels, they have facets like jewels. The watches are made by hand, cut and faceted and polished by hand by our specialists who have years and years of experience.” Century Time Gems is also introducing a new advertising campaign, focusing on elegant, modern, timeless style. The new campaign puts wearers of Century watches inside a faceted sapphire – creating really eye-catching images. O For more information about Century click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
Challenger -R BASELWORLD Hall 1.1 Stand E71 Via Paolo Nanni Costa, 12/4/b - Bologna (Italy)
www.haurex.com - info@haurex.com
00 XXXXXXX europa star
Armaan Swiss Diamond Watches – the right time at the wrong time Armaan Swiss Diamond Watches launched in Las Vegas during the summer of 2007, just before the watch industry’s amazing escalating sales figures took an unpleasant plunge. “It was the wrong time and the right time,” explains Nas Ekangaki, the company’s Executive Sales Director, “but what really helped us was that people are always looking for something different, exclusive and daring”.
RSophie Furley
is our strongest selling point,” shares Ekangaki. “We knew that to stand out we needed the best of the best, certified diamonds.”
Diamond expertise Arman Swiss Diamond Watches is owned by Classic Diamonds from India, one of the largest diamond companies in the world, with an annual turnover of US$100 million and some 2.5 million stones sold monthly. Suppliers to some of the big names in the watch industry, the owners wanted to put their knowledge and expertise into a new brand of Swiss watches, creating unique watch collections that would only use the finest diamonds. In fact, all of the diamonds used in the company’s collections are grade VVS and colour G/H (For information on diamond grading, see Keith Strandberg’s article Diamonds are a retailer’s best friend…if you know what you are selling on www.europastar.com) and are guaranteed for life against any eventuality. “The quality of our diamonds
A celebrity following “Different, exclusive and daring” is a good way to describe these eye-catching timepieces that mix diamonds and colours in an inventive way. It is not surprising to discover that American celebrities have been enraptured with them. Big names including NBA all-stars Dwight Howard and Shaquille O’Neal, singer and television presenter Paula Abdul, singer Jennifer Hudson, Twilight heart throb Kellan Lutz and actor Steven Seagal are to be seen with an Armaan watch on their wrist. A company couldn’t ask for better publicity to get started.
A vibrant array of timepieces Nas Ekangaki with Paula Abdul and Kellan Lutz
The collections have been designed to optimise the beauty of the diamonds, with cases
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that maximise the different settings and dials that are complimented by the addition of gem stones. There are five different settings, ranging from 12 subtle diamond indexes to a full pavé piece with over 2,000 stones. To date there are four collections: The Eterno, Spectrum, Chronograph and the Big Boy which are available in sizes 38mm, 44mm or 48mm, ranging in price from CHF 3,000 to 85,000 and they all are backed by a two year guarantee. The Electro is the most conservative of the quartet and has been the best seller for ladies. The Spectrum is the company’s signature timepiece with its highly recognisable colourful dial (both the Electro and the Spectrum are available with a quartz movement or an automatic calibre from ETA). For the Chronograph collection there is also the possibility of choosing between a quartz movement or a Valjoux 7750 mechanical movement. And last but not least, the Big Boy is a skeleton timepiece (48mm) that is a contemporary interpretation of the popular exposed movement.
Distribution in progress Armaan Swiss Diamond Watches first launched in the United States with stores in California, Florida and Texas. In 2008 the company started
BRAND NEWS 93
Christina Moore Dwight Howard
distribution in Japan, and in 2009 it opened stores in Qatar, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the Maldives. There are currently 25 points of sale, but the brand would like to open more doors in the United States and find partners in Europe. With no more than 1,500 pieces per year, distribution will remain exclusive with no more than one or two doors per city. The company works together with its retailers by providing important diamond training and by organising special events. 2010 has every chance of being a good year
for Armaan. “The economic crisis may have limited the way we wanted to open our distribution, but we are working progressively,” concludes Ekangaki. The collections are high quality, good value for money, fun, colourful, dynamic and fresh, which is just what customers want to see right now. So it may have been the right and wrong time for the brand to launch, but for the world’s retailers, it’s the perfect time to take a look. O To view Armann Swiss Diamond Watches, visit the brand at BaselWorld in Hall 4.
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Dior’s Christal Mystérieuse gets the feminine touch RSophie Furley
W
When Dior introduced its Christal Mystérieuse at BaselWorld 2009, the company obviously had the modern man in mind. The design was decidedly masculine with a 44mm case, diving-style bezel and black alligator strap, but women obviously couldn’t get enough of them because this year Dior is presenting a women’s version in an elegant 38mm case, with a sprinkling of diamonds and a black crystal bracelet on option.
The magic of this mysterious timepiece is that the dial is in constant motion with three mobile sapphire discs that pass over three fixed discs, creating a different watch face every second (the exact same image only comes around once a month). The plates are decorated with a combination of bold delineated geometrical shapes using white and Tahiti mother-of-pearl inserts as well as black and gold metallic segments, reminiscent of art deco and kinetic art. The electromechanical mechanism that turns
the plates was developed by the Quinting Manufacture for Dior and took three watchmakers, an automotive engineer and an electro technical engineer, seven years and 10 million CHF to perfect! This new ladies’ version has a diamond set bezel with black sapphire crystal inserts, a transparent sapphire crystal case back with a central ring that is also set with diamonds and is available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. O For more information about Dior click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
B A S E L WORLD Hall 2.0 · Stand A40
Tutima GmbH · Postfach 1153 · D-27770 Ganderkesee · Tel. +49 42 21 / 98 83 20 · Fax 98 83 77 · info@boccia-titanium.de
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LOCMAN: Watchmaking away from it all RMichael Balfour reports on an Italian independent brand with a distinct difference
T
The story of LOCMAN, the independent Italian watchmaker is unique, in the true sense of the word. For a start, its name is always and everywhere spelt out in capital letters, which is unusual among the world’s dial names. And it is based on an island … the Isle of Elba, the third largest in Italian waters, renowned for its crystal clear sea, fabulous little beaches, its Etruscan, Roman and Medici remains, and for hosting Napoleon’s enforced stay from 3rd May 1814 until his escape on 26th February 1815. Elba became a part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. It was here that Marco Mantovani, the founder of LOCMAN, was born 48 years ago, and where he still lives with his wife Gloria and family and also works, overlooking the Marina di Campo, where the sandy beach is the longest on the island. Fifteen years ago he set up his firm’s HQ, technical laboratories, case materials research, quality and production managements, its logistics department and warehouse in this magical place. He is now the island’s largest employer and a prominent events sponsor.
MONTECRISTO
Marco has even set up a fish restaurant, Kontiki, next to his office, to entertain his visitors and show them new products after their ferry trip from the Tuscan mainland port of Piombino to the glorious ancient deepwater island port of Portoferraio, and their visits to his four monobrand stores dotted around the island. LOCMAN has workshops in Milan, working on its own designs (Marco: “It is the island, its nature and the sea that inspire my designs”), around remodelled ETA movements, under the direction of his sister Caterina, with 30 employees. In 2010, the company will be producing over 250,000 wristwatches and also a range of clocks, with a turnover around € 25 million. In unit terms, LOCMAN might well be the third largest watchmaker in Italy. Caterina also adroitly handles its international media relations, advertising and marketing campaigns. LOCMAN timepieces are now available in most world markets, with over 500 points of sale in Italy and more than 1,200 elsewhere. It has established a flagship store in Florence, of course (in the elegant Palazzo Tornabuoni), and
also has an office in New York. Unusually for an independent maker, LOCMAN set up a watchmaking school in 2006. It was at its Scuola Italiana di Orologeria that the Montecristo model was developed, as the brand’s first mechanical watch. This automatic piece, named after a small island off Elba, also comes in a quartz chronograph version. Special attention has been devoted to the adjustable straps on the Montecristo watches. This reflects the fact that Marco started life in the trade as a watch strap designer. He persuaded himself to go into manufacturing after a visit to the Basel Fair in 1986, noting what Breitling was up to. Innovation in design is now one of Marco’s hallmarks. The dials of the ever-cheerful Tuttotondo range reflect the bright Mediterranean colours all around his island home, which he enjoys on his afternoon fishing trips, and his evenings have inspired the darker Stealth collection. The latter are cased in a combination of titanium, carbon and stainless steel, mounted on ‘breathable’ rubber straps; the latest addition is the slim and elegant Stealth Total Colour model. All model prices start from just € 235. Not bad for ‘Made in Italy’ designs at their best, and for a still young independent maker definitely going places wherever he sees a market for his Elban timepieces. O A paperback edition of Michael Balfour’s latest book, CULT WATCHES: THE WORLD’S ENDURING CLASSICS, is now published (Merrell. London & New York, £18.95). For more information about Locman click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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BRAND NEWS 97
Fundamentally Rado
Its code name is as minimalistic as its design is plain. We are talking about the r5.5. It comes from the Jasper Morrison Design Studio, which was honoured with the Product Design Award 2010 at the International Forum Design (IF). Basically, the r5.5 takes advantage of all the potential that ceramic has to offer in creating a totally integrated watch that is reduced to its purest function.
Under a flat sapphire crystal, three geometric white hands move around a black sunbrushed dial with white time markers, all contained in a square case with softened edges that blends seamlessly into the mat black ceramic bracelet whose links decrease in size as they perfectly envelop the wrist. We cannot say less—or perhaps we actually say more by saying less. Rado has also gone straight to the essential with its chronograph, which features three
hands, two counters, date at 3 o’clock and slightly curved, rectangular ceramic push pieces. One concession has been made, however, and that is for the colour. One of the chronograph models has forsaken black to offer a dial in electric blue with chronographic hands in red or orange. All models are equipped with a quartz movement and are available in one unique size. O For more information about Rado click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
Pure Scandinavian Style
Model IQ62Q885
Danish Design is a registered trademark.
NEW COLLECTION! BaselWorld 2010 Hall 5.0 Booth A33 T. +31 20 679 46 33 E. export@weisz.nl amsterdam • berlin • copenhagen penhag gen • london • los angeless • moscow • new york • tokyo ww ww.danishdesignwatches.com www.danishdesignwatches.com
Watch the time... A multi-faceted watch The new Sapphire Watch Series from JACOB JENSEN™ expresses a consistent choice, as this watch is not a simple article for everyday use, but a pure stylish statement from the person who wears it. Glass as well as the case and steel strap lead your thoughts in the direction of the processed surfaces of a jewel and the reflection of the light in different directions. That is the reason for the name Sapphire. Strap and lock are completely integrated with the watchcase. In spite of the faceting the insignificant volume of the watch is surprising, among other things thanks to ultra flat quality movement. The Sapphire-series consists of watches of two sizes for ladies and gents and in three different colour combinations. BaselWorld 2010 Hall 5.0, Booth A33 More information T. +31 20 679 46 33 E. export@weisz.nl
JACOB JENSEN is a trademark of JACOB JENSEN HOLDING ApS and is used under license by JACOB JENSEN BRAND ApS.
www.jacobjensen.com
Model no. 550
Generation to generation...
Model no. 552
Model no. 553
Swiss Made
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Longines flying high RKeith W. Strandberg
I
In 1933, Longines made a timepiece especially for famous pilot Charles Lindbergh for a 47,000 km trip around the North Atlantic, a trip he undertook with his wife, Anne Morrow Lindbergh. After having been the first man to fly non-stop across the North Atlantic in his Spirit of St. Louis, Lindbergh wanted to explore possible future air routes across the far north.
For this expedition, Lindberg took a powerful aircraft with a 710 hp engine and a variable propeller. He also took two radios and an inflatable canoe in case they were forced to eject from the aircraft. During their trip, Lindbergh and his wife christened their plane the Tingmissartoq, which is an Inuit word meaning ‘the one that flies like a great bird’. Lindbergh’s navigational instruments included a directional gyroscope, an artificial horizon, an icing gauge and two aperiodic compasses, all of which were the very latest equipment at that time. Lindbergh also took with him a Longines chronograph developed specially for his flight to Greenland and the far north. This timepiece had a wristwatch chronograph movement with a 30-minute counter. It measured time to the fifth of a second and the chronograph mechanism also had a tachymeter
LONGINES LINDBERGH’S ATLANTIC VOYAGE WATCH
that could measure speeds of up to 500 kph. With the flying conditions that were experienced by the Lindberghs, a reliable timepiece was one of the final safeguards as far as navigational instruments were concerned. This year at BaselWorld, Longines is re-issuing this exceptional timepiece, known as the Longines Lindbergh’s Atlantic Voyage Watch, as a tribute to this aviation pioneer. This 47.50 mm automatic wrist chronograph has small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, just like the original model. The time and time measurements are displayed using hands of blued steel on a silvered dial with a white surround and the watch has the 500 kph tachymeter as well as
a sapphire crystal covering the dial and a solid caseback that protects an exhibition back. Mounted on a genuine brown alligator strap, the new Lindbergh’s Atlantic Voyage Watch is available in steel or rose gold. Lindbergh’s entire route went to New Foundland, Greenland, Iceland, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Great Britain, France, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Portugal, the Azores, the Canary Islands and Cape Verde before returning to the USA via Gambia, Brazil and Cuba – 47,000 km in all. And his Longines chronograph accompanied him every km of the way. O For more information about Longines click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Bell & Ross on the radar screen RPierre Maillard
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With its BR Instrument collection, Bell & Ross has strongly marked out its territory by proposing watches directly inspired by the instrument panel of an airplane. Its square form marked with four screws, even though quickly copied, has done much for the recognition of a brand whose development has been remarkably consistent. The BR Instrument line was rapidly expanded. After the enormous initial 46-mm BR 01, other Instruments were launched: the 42-mm BR 03; a BR 01 Tourbillon; a BR Minuteur; and even a ‘small’ 39-mm BR-S.
With the all-new BR 01 RADAR, Bell & Ross has taken another step in its integration of aeronautical codes into watchmaking. The RADAR draws its design directly from the sweeping beams of radar screens used in aeronautics. This type of display, besides its technical aspects, offers immediate readability and reliability that are vital in aviation. We have already seen in the watch world the many attempts to transform the way time is read, among them, notably, replacing the hands with coloured discs. Yet up to now, none of these experiments has achieved any real commercial success. With the BR 01 RADAR, it is different, for two reasons. Not only is this watch perfectly matched to its natural universe—aviation—but, thanks to the
intuitive reading of the time—a great advantage of analogue watches—it is perfectly respectful as a timepiece once the very simple code has been understood. In place of the hands, there are three concentric and independent discs on which three bright colour segments ‘sweep’ the dial. The hours are in yellow, minutes in red and seconds in green. Bell & Ross chose to reposition the hours, minutes and seconds in descending order so that the eye is directed towards the centre of the target-shaped dial. Admittedly, the eye is used to seeing a longer minute hand, but to put the minutes on the outer disc would have required a radical change to the positioning of the gear train, which in turn would have incurred tremendous additional costs. Bell & Ross wanted to keep the price competitive, and besides, once the technique is understood, telling the time is immediate as it is natural. These three discs must be adjusted to the nearest micron so that they are constantly parallel and the risk of friction is reduced. Another difficulty the Bell & Ross watchmakers had to overcome was the weight of these discs. After a number of trials, metal proved to be too heavy, compromising the quality and the precision of the movement, so a new solution was found with acrylic discs to keep the 42-hour power reserve of the ETA automatic mechanical movement that drives the ensemble. The result is a watch whose great and basic sobriety takes on a certain lightness thanks to its colours and unceasing movement. The Instrument BR 01 Radar is available in a limited edition of 500 timepieces, in a 46-mm case made of 316L glass bead-blasted stainless steel with a vacuum carbon black finish. Water-resistant to 100 metres, the underwater reading of its colours must be amazing. O For more information about Bell & Ross click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
Skagen Americas + 1.800.791.6784 · T + 1.775.850.5500 · F + 1.775.850.5530 · E sales@skagendesigns.com Skagen Europe, Middle East, Africa T + 45.4588.3460 · F + 45.4588.5690 · E sales@skagendesigns.dk Skagen Asia Pacific T + 852.3568.8769 · F + 852.3568.0877 · E service@skagendesigns.hk Watches include a Limited Lifetime Warranty. Visit www.skagen.com for more information Featured watches are the 809XLTTM and the 806XLTLM
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Oris’s TT3 is back! RKeith W. Strandberg
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The Oris TT3 is back in two Darryl O’ Young Limited Editions. Darryl O’ Young is the Porsche Carrera Cup Asia Double Class A Racing Champion, driving the Type 997 Porsche race car. Oris has designed two watches, each model is limited to 997 units –to match the Type 997 Porsche. Available in 43.5mm or 41mm, the curved cases of the TT3 are black DLC coated and the watch comes with a black rubber strap with the signature TT3 flexible lugs. The unusual glass dial is printed with a Porsche wheel rim pattern and offers a glimpse of the watch’s automatic mechanical movement, as well as the calendar date wheel. The SuperLuminova numerals on the dial are the same Microgramma typeface as used on the Porsche cars. BC3 SPORTSMAN
TT3
Another introduction for Oris at BaselWorld 2010 is the BC3 Sportsman, a redesign of Oris’s most popular pilot’s watch, the BC3, which was introduced 10 years ago. This timepiece features a brand new 42mm case. The ‘Sportsman’ in the name refers to the first classification level for aerobatic pilots and was influenced by Oris’s partnership with Don
Vito Wyprächtiger, a test pilot for world air race champion Hannes Arch. The watch is water resistant to 100 metres and comes on a choice of three straps – classic leather, elegant stainless steel and sporty rubber. O For more information about Oris click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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ADVERTISER’S SpoTlIghT
Alexander Shorokhoff – combining German quality with Russian soul n the heart of Germany, not far from Frankfurt, lies the small town of Alzenau and the intriguing workshops of the Alexander Shorokhoff watch brand. Alexander Shorokhoff was born in Moscow in 1960 and has enjoyed a fascinating career that has taken him on a journey from engineering to the role of Managing Director of a stateowned construction company, to being chosen by Michael Gorbatchov and the Russian Ministry of Economics to study new concepts of management in the free market in Frankfurt. It was here that he obtained his excellent knowledge of watch manufacturing and developed a true passion for the art. In 2003 it seemed only natural that he should found the Alexander Shorokhoff watch brand. His team is composed of highly-qualified watchmakers and engravers who work together creating the Alexander Shorokhoff ’s timepieces. The latest star to join the brand’s collections is the Leo Tolstoi Skeleton that combines the highest level of engraving, guilloché and skeleton work. The timepiece starts its life with a hand winding Russian chronograph movement which is totally re-worked to the minutest detail. “It takes the skilled engravers several hours and even days to work the cold steel parts into a movement with ‘soul’,” explains Shorokhoff. The 18-carat rose gold case, the sapphire crystals front and back and the diamonds create a beautiful frame for this impressive movement that is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces. www.alexander-shorokhoff.de BaselWorld Hall 5.1, Booth B33
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the craftsmanship of katana. the cutting edge of seiko.
The reception given to Ananta at Baselworld 2009 presaged a remarkable success for this new collection throughout the world. For 2010, three new creations are added with both Spring Drive and automatic calibers.
The artistry of Katana Katana is the ancient art of Japanese sword-making. The legendary precision, beauty and sharpness of a Katana sword are expressed in every detail of the Ananta design – the “blade” polished sides, the long graceful curve of the case and the razorsharp edges to the hands and dial markers.
Katana. The inspiration of Ananta
The Spring Drive Moon Phase
Spring Drive and the moon: A perfect harmony There is no union in watchmaking more perfect than between a Moon Phase and SEIKO’s unique Spring Drive caliber. The glide motion of the hands echoes the continuous, precise and natural movement of the planets across the sky. No tick. No noise. Just the perfect glide motion of time.
The Automatic Chronograph, Caliber 8R
Engraved moonlight radiates across the movement
Two new chronographs join the Ananta collection for 2010, both in high intensity titanium. One has the unique glide motion of Spring Drive and is offered in a limited edition of 150 while the other houses the celebrated 8R automatic caliber.
engineered for the new road ahead The 2010 Sportura collection remains true to its roots, retaining all the iconic design features that have made it so successful over the past ten years: the jet black dials, the red color accents and the high legibility sapphire crystals. Its highlight? A new 8R Automatic Chronograph, offered in a limited edition of 1,000.
The sure-grip crown and chronograph pushers.
The Limited Edition Sportura Automatic Chronograph, Caliber 8R
built for the oceans The new Velatura 49er Class Chronograph was designed in consultation with the leading sailors in the 49er Class, the fastest boat in the Olympic regatta.
The Velatura 49er Class Chronograph
classic inspiration. modern expression. For 2010, Premier welcomes a new caliber into its already wide range of technologies. This new chronograph combines precision timekeeping with an easy-to-read calendar at the 12 o’clock position.
The Premier Big Calendar Chronograph
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Breitling goes black
AVENGER SEAWOLF BLACKSTEEL CHRONO
RKeith W. Strandberg
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Breitling goes deep and black this year at BaselWorld, introducing a special BlackSteel version of the Avenger Seawolf Chrono, the only chronograph that is fully operational at a depth of 1,000 metres (3,300 feet), quite a feat in the world of watchmaking. Most chronographs cannot be used underwater at all, and this new Avenger Seawolf can be used down to 1,000 metres. The reason it can be operated under water and at such depths? It utilizes a Breitling-patented magnetic pushpiece system, making it possible to use the pushers through the metal of the case, without any direct mechanical contact
and no danger of compromising the seals that protect the water resistance. The BlackSteel chronograph has an automatic decompression valve and features a Breitling SuperQuartz™ calibre. This COSC certified movement has a level of accuracy ten times superior to that of standard quartz movements, enabling it to measure times to within 1/10th of a second complete with split-time indications. The new Blacksteel limited edition, limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide, comes in black, with the steel case having been treated with an ultraresistant carbon-based coating. Everything is black except for the white luminescent hands, hour markers and red-rimmed counters, and it is fitted with a choice of a black Diver Pro rubber strap or a perforated Ocean Racer strap. Also new for Basel is the Colt GMT in steel. O For more information about Breitling click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
COLT GMT
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Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500 Black Ice in other colours RKeith W. Strandberg VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE CHRONO
VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE QUARTZ
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You’d think that something called ‘Black Ice’ would be...well, black. To be fair, the Victorinox Swiss Army trademarked Black Ice PVD treatment is indeed black, but that’s not the colour you’ll notice on these new timepieces. The Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500
VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE MECHA
Black Ice Chrono, equipped with a quartz movement, comes with a striking orange dial and matching rubber strap, while the Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500 Black Ice Mecha is powered by an ETA automatic movement and
this watch has a new deep blue dial and matching blue rubber strap. The Dive Master 500 Black Ice Chrono also comes in red (red dial and strap) and a black (black dial, black strap or black PVD coated bracelet). The Dive Master 500 series is water resistant to 500 metres and is designed for use in the water – it is rugged, easy to read and highly functional, not to mention really good looking. O For more information about Victorinox Swiss Army click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Armand Nicolet gets sporty for 2010 RKeith W. Strandberg
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Armand Nicolet has been known for its unique, though classically-styled watches. In addition to its regular collection, the brand has made a name for itself in limited editions, restoring and upgrading vintage movements for use in a series of sold-out offerings. Now, Armand Nicolet takes on a new segment, sportier watches, with the redesigned S05 series. Though available in stainless steel, the real star of this new series is the titanium DLC coated S05 in a mat anthracite/dark gray colour that is striking yet understated at the same time. The titanium case, which strengthens the case’s resistance to corrosion and at the same time reduces the weight dramatically, houses an automatic movement with complete calendar functions. The non-contrasting dial features applied luminous indexes, numbers and hands. The bezel, screw-down crown and pushers are protected with rubber, and the 44mm watch is water resistant to 300 metres.
“We redesigned the series, which is quite big, to be as ergonomic and comfortable as possible,” says Rolando Braga, President of Armand Nicolet. “The titanium makes it much lighter. The outside shape of the case is the same, but we redesigned every single part to make it more comfortable and more readable.” Also to be introduced is the new J09 series, in
a slightly smaller (40mm) size, designed to meet the demands of the current marketplace for simple, basic mechanical watches. This new line will retail for between 2,200 – 2,900 CHF in steel, and there will be a steel and gold version in the future. O For more information about Armand Nicolet click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Ernst Benz limited editions RKeith W. Strandberg
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Ernst Benz this year introduces new limited editions, one in the ChronoDiver and the other in the ChronoScope collection. The ChronoDiver Chronograph Limited Edition uses Ernst Benz’s signature 47-mm case in brushed stainless steel and black PVD. Powered by a Valjoux 7750 automatic movement, this impressive timepiece is available in four dial executions, limited to 250 pieces each: black mat dial with white luminous numerals, black mat with orange luminous numerals, black carbon fibre with white luminous numerals and black carbon fibre with orange luminous numerals. All versions are highly readable and unique in their design, instantly recognizable as an Ernst Benz timepiece. PVD CHRONODIVER
CHRONOSCOPE PEK LIMITED EDITION
“The new PVD ChronoDiver is our latest creation in our continual efforts to develop and manufacture timepieces that reflect the spirit of aviation instrumentation, the art of watchmaking and the vision of the founder,” says Leonid Khankin, Managing Director, Ernst Benz. “The Black mat PVD finish of this new interpretation of the ChronoDiver we released just two years ago closely resembles the original aircraft gauges Ernst began producing nearly 50 years ago. Adhering to our basic design principal for legibility; the dial, hands and, uniquely, the external bezel are treated with either white or orange luminosity. This model reflects the spirit and history of Ernst Benz timepieces, bringing together all the components which are symbolic of Ernst Benz." In addition, Ernst Benz continues with the ChronoScope PEK Limited Edition, dedicated to the city of Beijing (Beijing’s airport code is PEK) and perfect for the Chinese year of the Tiger, which debuted on February 14, 2010.
This ChronoScope PEK Limited Edition series will be available in the 47-mm ChronoScope case with two different dial executions, Noir (Black) and Vermilion (China Red), with both versions limited to only 88 pieces hand-finished in brushed stainless steel. Additionally an even more limited version of only eight pieces per dial will be available in Black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) coated rushed steel. Both unique dials incorporate Traditional Chinese characters for the numerals. In designing this timepiece, inspiration was found in Chinese numerology and the number eight, a continuous and perfectly symmetrical number that is a sign of prosperity and wealth in Chinese culture. With the design and aesthetics of this particular timepiece, Ernst Benz honours the magnificent past and brilliant future of Beijing. O For more information about Ernst Benz click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Frédérique Constant’s junior collection RKeith W. Strandberg
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Frédérique Constant is planning a large introduction at the 2010 BaselWorld fair, debuting about 40 new watches, but the brand’s President and Co-Owner Peter Stas was only willing to share two of these new models with Europa Star prior to the doors of the fair opening. “It is important to come with new models to create excitement, especially in this challenging economic climate,” Stas says. “We are going to introduce a new collection, the Frédérique Constant Junior, for youngsters from 12 – 16 years old. This year, we have created something for the sons, and in the future we will do something for the daughters. The watches fit in with the rest of our watches, but we have specifically created a quartz chronograph and an automatic version, which matches the adult version of this watch. The range in price for the Frédérique Constant Junior collection is from 350 – 500 Euros, which is very attractively priced.” Why develop a ‘junior’ collection? “We have been approached by retailers to make a watch specially for young people and we now have the possibility to make these watches,” Stas explains. “To help spread the word, we have teamed up with a 14 year old Swiss athlete, Sebastian Schneiter, who will sail in the Olympics.” There are three basic models in 18 executions in the collection and they will be available immediately. In addition, Frédérique Constant is introducing the Maxim Manufacture Ladies, which is the first ladies timepiece using the manufacture movement
FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT JUNIOR
MAXIME MANUFACTURE LADIES
This new timepiece is powered by the FC-700 Maxime Manufacture automatic calibre with date pointer, which is housed in a 39mm case. The Maxim Manufacture Ladies comes in three versions, all featuring a mother-of-pearl dial set with six diamonds, with a sunray guilloché in the centre and a date pointer at six o’clock. The three versions are: 1. A stainless steel case with an 18 carat rose gold bezel adorned with 52 diamonds (0.8 carats) version, on a brown galuchat strap and an extra vanilla satin strap; 2. A stainless steel case and bezel adorned with 52 diamonds (0.8
carats) version on a black galuchat strap with an extra grey satin strap included; 3. Stainless steel case and bezel, without diamonds (except for six diamonds on the mother-ofpearl dial) on a black galuchat strap with an extra grey satin strap included. For the other 38 or so models, you’ll just have to visit the Frédérique Constant stand at BaselWorld. O For more information about Frédérique Constant click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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TIME PLAYER
Hamilton reinforces its reputation RKeith W. Strandberg
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In the mid-range price segment, Hamilton is a company that has been doing some of the most interesting designs, harking back to its history of innovation when the brand was based in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA. One of Hamilton’s most interesting introductions this year is the Pulsomatic, to honour the 40th anniversary of Hamilton’s launch of the first digital watch, the Pulsar. The case of the Pulsomatic, though redesigned and bigger, is reminiscent of the Pulsar. With the help of ETA, Hamilton developed a new movement (Calibre H1970) that combines automatic and quartz technology for a power reserve of 82 days (using an accumulator). The Pulsomatic watch is a pure timepiece, as was the original, displaying only time and date. The new Pulsomatic retails for 995 Euros. Hamilton is also introducing the Hamilton Lab, a special project that is aimed squarely at the watch collector. The Hamilton Lab allows Hamilton to develop really cutting edge watches that are not meant for industrialized production, or even retail sale for that matter. Certain high concept watches will be introduced and debut in the Hamilton Lab, where customers can purchase them directly. These
PULSOMATIC
watches will not be in Hamilton’s regular collection and will only be made if there is enough interest shown. At Basel, Hamilton will be introducing three special Lab watches - the Time Player, the ODC X002 and the Ventura XXL in white. Limited to 999 pieces, these products can only be purchased through the Lab’s website. Hamilton thinks that retailers will be reluctant to carry Lab pieces, but when a watch is booked through the Lab, it will be delivered to the customer via Hamilton’s closest retailer.
This way, as Hamilton says, they are using the web but still supporting the retailer. In addition, Hamilton will introduce the RailRoad Auto Chrono, based on the vintage Hamilton railroad watch – famously known as the ‘watch of railroad accuracy’. Hamilton worked with ETA to develop a movement that is only being used by Hamilton, taking some elements from the pocket watch and reproducing them in a Valgrange movement. Written on the small second ring on the dial of this watch is the legend ‘The Watch of Railroad Accuracy,
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KHAKI KING PILOT
Lancaster 1892’. Hamilton’s Chief Designer, Hakim El Kadiri, started this project with the goal to morph the vintage railroad pocket watch into a modern watch. There are three watches in this collection: a Valgrange Small Second, a Valgrange Chrono and a 38mm with automatic movement. Hamilton is again working with Harrison Ford and his charity Conservation International in 2010 and the watch that benefits the charity this year is the Khaki Pioneer. Ford is an accomplished pilot, so he chose to redesign an old Hamilton pilot’s watch, with a pocket watch type crown and a new anti-magnetic cage system. For the ladies, Hamilton is introducing a beautiful women’s watch from the 1930s, faithfully recreated exactly as it was back then. And to celebrate the current trend, Hamilton is introducing new automatics in their ladies collection – the brand saw a niche that was not being developed at this price range and the result is a great looking collection of automatic timepieces. Hamilton is introducing a lot of exciting watches again this year, reinforcing its reputation as an innovator and a trendsetter in the affordable watch category. O For more information about Hamilton click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
RAILROAD AUTO CHRONO KHAKI X-LANDING
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Perrelet turns heads RSophie Furley
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Perrelet launches a Prestige Edition of its Diamond Flower Collection with diamonds, baguettes, rubies, sapphires or emeralds beautifully set on the bezel, case and lugs. If the Diamond Flower wasn't already attractive enough, this new collections is going to be turning heads all over Basel! The Diamond Flower Collection was launched in 2008 to much acclaim due to its magical women’s complication. The timepieces house Perrelet’s unique and patented invention called the Double Rotor. One of the rotors is in the form of a lotus flower on the face of the dial and the other oscillating weight is to be found on the back of the movement. Both are linked and are perfectly synchronised to provide the 40-hour power reserve. This is a great complication to get women interested in mechanical watches as they can actually see the rotor spinning around on their wrist. The Prestige Collection takes this feminine time-
piece to the next level on the glamour charts with seven exceptional precious stone interpretations. Perrelet explains that the rubies reflect passion, the emeralds denote hope, the sapphires represent the infinite skies and ocean and the diamonds and baguette diamonds stand
for eternity. How can any female consumer possibly decide? Photographed here are a white gold and diamond version with a whopping 1,045 VSI Top Wesselton diamonds (10.48 carats); a rose gold, chocolate mother-of-pearl and diamond version with 593 VS1 Top Wesselton diamonds (3.41 carats) and a white gold and ruby version with 238 rubies (2.43 carats). All of the Diamond Flower Prestige Editions are equipped with anti-glare sapphire crystals front and back, crocodile straps, deployment buckles and are water resistant to 50 metres. Perrelet has announced that it will be releasing a new Diamond Flower duo in black and white ceramic during the BaselWorld fair. Stay tuned for our after Basel reports. O For more information about Perrelet click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Swarovski sparkles in 2010 RSophie Furley
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The use of crystal in all its shapes and sizes has become increasingly popular in wristwatches over the last few years, and we are not only talking about sapphire crystals to cover dials, but bezels, cut stones and even bracelets can all be found in this magical material. So it was no surprise when one of the most famous names in crystal, Swarovski, announced that it would be presenting its own watch collections to accompany the crystal jewellery and objects that have made the brand so famous. One year after the inauguration at BaselWorld, Europa Star caught up with Robert Buchbauer, Member of the Executive Committee and part of the Swarovski family, to see how business had been and what is planned for 2010. “Our first Watches Collection benefited from a very positive welcome, which proves that we found the perfect balance between Swiss-made watchmaking and Swarovski’s DNA,” he explains. “The development of the segment followed our expectations which is encouraging in the current context.”
ROCK’N’LIGHT
One of the major attractions of Swarovski, apart from the amazing savoir-faire the company has in the art of cut crystal, has been the irresistible prices. When other companies are pricing crystal timepieces much, much higher, it is perhaps astonishing that Swarovski didn’t decide to follow suit. “Our price positioning is in line with our global price policy,” shares Bauchbauer, “it reflects the high technical quality of our watches as well as the know-how and heritage Swarovski has been DRESSTIME
constantly renewing for 115 years now. It is important for us to express our ‘Modern Lux’ philosophy by offering affordable watches.” So what is new for BaselWorld 2010? “We have several very different lines which all fit a specific mood, moment and occasion. The Rock’n’Light is the most daring piece of the collection, to this extent this watch is very exciting. By playing with spectacular volumes, Swarovski once more has achieved the most precise and expert work with a cushion cut crystal made up of 32 perfectly straight, symmetrical facets…I am very enthusiastic about the brand-new DressTime line. It’s feminine and elegant design clearly embodies Swarovski’s heritage and jewel spirit. I would also mention the recoloured Octea Sport as part of my 2010 favourites. The initial version met a huge public success, so we felt natural to interpret this easy-to-wear yet stylish watch with a bright orange and a vibrant red rubber bracelet,” shares Bauchbauer. Watches are clearly a priority for Swarovski as the company expresses its craftsmanship, creativity and expertise in cutting crystal in this new art form. So for retailers looking for the ultimate in crystal watches, the Swarovski booth is a definite must at BaselWorld this year.O For more information about Swarovski click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
ADVERTISER’S SPOTLIGHT europa star
Today’s spark Tomorrow’s sparkle
Space is mysterious. So is time. Seconds. Minutes. Hours. Or light years. Space going through time. Time going through space. Time passed. Time began. Time takes place now for a legend again.
ime and space are interconnected in such a way that it would be impossible to imagine one without the other. The repeated movement of celestial bodies, such as the Sun, the Moon and the Stars, gives rise to mankind’s initial notion of time and at the same time, provides a way of measuring time. In 1596, a giant and powerful binary red star 350 light years away from the Earth, residing amidst the constellation of Cetus, was discovered by astronomer David Fabricius and later named by Johannes Hevelius in 1662 as “Mira”, meaning “wonderful” and “astonishing” in Latin.
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The name “Mira” was selected and registered in Switzerland in 1896 as a brand of timepieces. The brand did live up to the connotation of its name, and produced exquisite timepieces that are light years ahead of its time and people’s imagination. Notable among Mira’s masterpieces is an automatic watch released in the 1940s. This timepiece houses a Felsa Bidynator caliber whose rotor works in both directions, and hence this is probably the predecessor of all modern automatic watches. Moreover, the movement is equipped with a swan-neck regulator, a detail usually only found in expensive chronometers. What’s interesting about Mira, the star, is that it’s a variable star, which means its brightness changes over periods of time. And coincidentally, the brand Mira also went through a gloomy period in its watchmaking history just as its celestial namesake. Nevertheless it is just a matter of time before Mira, will shine again and capture the world’s attention. And with its new watch collections to be premiered at 2010 BaselWorld, that day is coming. A star is re-born.
europa star
M101 SBK
The magnificence of the universe is beyond words. One magical astronomical phenomenon is planetary conjunction whereby an astronomer, with his telescope, may note celestial bodies in our vast galaxy appearing adjacent to each other. And occasionally, in a once-in-a-lifetime convergence of three or more, our astronomer may even witness them orbiting close enough to create what is called a syzygy in astronomy; a unity through the alignment of three or more celestial bodies. Inspired by such rare and auspicious phenomena, Mira now presents its new Merveille de l'espace collection. The stately stainless steel case measures 42mm in diameter. The upper part of the multi-layered dial is enlivened by engraved Guilloché patterns, radiating from the center in a simulation of the dazzling light of stars. The lower part of the dial is available in two variations, namely, the blue aventurine and the white mother-of-pearl models. Each perfectly cut piece of aventurine dial is unique that the natural sheen imparted by the powdery substance differs from one and another in quantity and distribution. Through special mining
ADVERTISER’S SPOTLIGHT
M101 SSV
and delicate processing, each blue aventurine dial forms a unique and picturesque sky landscape. And the natural texture of the mother-of-pearl dial resembles the splendid and awe-inspiring nebula in the universe. Just as fascinating as the ingenious layout of the dial: The stepped hour sub-dial at 12 o’clock is made of brushed metal. The center 60-second disc seems to be floating in air, sitting atop the other two sub-dials. Whereas, the 60-minute retrograde adds more dynamism as a whole. The linear arrangement of the three subdials, plus the Mira star logo on the top, represents the syzygy of four celestial bodies, of which Mira is the brightest one. This spectacular design offers us an exclusive space-experience on our wrist. With an automatic mechanical movement combining durability with precision, a fluted crown ornamented with a diamond, multi layer anti-reflective coating sapphire crystal, crocodile designerstrap with push button clasp and water resistance to 50 meters. Mira Watch SA info@mirawatch.ch www.mirawatch.ch
ADVERTISER’S SPOTLIGHT europa star
ORIENT CELEBRATES ITS 60TH ANNIVERSARY “FINENESS” COLLECTION (1967) “TENBEAT” COLLECTION (1970)
he Orient Watch Company Limited was founded on July 13th 1950 in Hino City, Tokyo and has been continuously producing unique, state-of-the-art, mechanical timepieces ever since. 60 years of accumulated experience at the highest level of mechanical horology has lead to a number of historical timepieces. In 1967 Orient Watch produced its Calibre 3990, which was mounted on the “Fineness” Collection and drew particular attention as a phenomenally thin automatic watch that was a mere 3.90 mm thick. In comparison, the next competing automatic watch at the time was 4.48 mm. In fact, the “Fineness” was the thinnest automatic watch made in Japan until 1974. Three years later, in 1970, Orient Watch’s Calibre 9980 was launched in its sub brand “Tenbeat”. This amazing movement operated with 10 oscillations per second and became part of the glory days of automatic watches through the commercialization of a series of what were then cutting-edge technologies. The Calibre 9980 was developed to achieve high precision exceeding five or six oscillations per second, the most common oscillation frequency of movements at that time. When quartz and digital technology became increasingly popular in the 1970s, Orient Watch was proactive and released a number of interesting products as the company actively sought to develop new timepieces and new technologies. The company built a solid reputation with products such as the “Touchtron” that employed a mechanism that turned on an LED lamp simply by touching the edge of the case, and the “Orientron Just”, which was equipped with a simplified time correction feature that was groundbreaking for an AQ watch at that time.
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However, when the trend for mechanical watches started to recover in the 1990s Orient was the first to restart development of mechanical movements. The brand’s Calibre 46F40, featuring a power reserve indicator, was developed in 1996, enabling it to offer power reserve mechanical watches at accessible prices. In 2003, Orient Watch released the all-new thin Calibre 88700 with eight oscillations per second. This was followed by a diver’s watch with a saturation diving function in 2006. Orient Watch had kept all its mechanical watchmaking savoir- faire from its foundation in 1950. In celebration of this 60th anniversary year, Orient Watch will be launching several new models, including a special limited edition for its global market that will be released mid 2010. Limited to an exclusive 3,000 models, this classically styled, mechanical, hand-wound model will have a special movement that has the addition of a power reserve indicator. The collection will have a retro feel to it as it is inspired from Orient Watch’s timepieces from the 1950s. The dial will have a calligraphic Orient logo and ‘60th Anniversary’ engraved on the dial. Initial reactions to the collection have been so positive that Jiro Miyagawa, Director of Global Business Headquarters, is concerned that he may not have made enough!
“TOUCHTRON” COLLECTION (1976)
CALIBRE 46F40 (1996)
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LOGO OF 60TH ANNIVERSARY MODEL(2010)
ADVERTISER’S SpoTlIghT
DUAL TIME (2009)
Orient Watch produces an incredible 2.3 million timepieces per year, which are distributed globally to over 60 countries. The company has strong visibility in South America, China and other Asian countries, Eastern Europe and CIS countries, where it intends to enhance its sales and marketing activities, although it is also looking to develop markets such as India and Africa, which present considerable opportunity. The aim is to be present in the majority of the world’s countries by the end of the next decade. “Celebrating our 60th anniversary this year, we will continue to bolster our product line up and deploy market strategies mainly based on precision machinery development and manufacturing technologies.” Explains Miyagawa. “In particular, for mechanical watches, we would like to continuously develop new movements with new features and structures and provide high-quality products at affordable prices unique to Japan, so that we can improve the awareness and image of the Orient brand.” Looking to future product development, Orient Watch is currently creating new products equipped with calibres that feature additional functions, and products with unique mechanisms with great structures and water resistance. These features will be seen in releases from 2010 to 2011. “We are confident that the next-generation of Orient Watch products will meet your expectations,” shares Miyagawa. At a time when sure values, quality products and a renewed interest in mechanical timepieces are so important to the watch consumer, Orient Watch, with its six decades of continuous watch production, is in a perfect position for the future. www.orient-watch.com
THIN CALIBRE 88700 (2003)
WORLD TIME LIMITED EDITION (2003)
PROFESSIONAL DIVER (2006)
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A daring deviation for IceLink RSophie Furley
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Opening IceLink’s pre-Basel press kit triggers a questioning double take. We are so used to the 6TimeZones, rectangular collection, with all its ‘ice’, that this new round timepiece is quite a surprise. Once over the initial astonishment, we start to discover the curved lines and spirited design of this new round timepiece that the brand has imaginatively christened Mood. This isn’t the first round collection that the Los Angeles based company has created, there is also a round-shaped Premier collection; however this daring new Mood collection seems to better follow in the DNA footprints set down by the 6TimeZones Collection with its strong design, bold dials and great use of the IceFuel© technology. IceFuel© is a dense liquid which is mixed
with diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones and is injected into the case, allowing the gems to float around the dial in their own timeless motion, following the rhythm of the wrist that moves them. It was first used in one
of the small windows of the 6TimeZones Snow models and is now displayed in all its glory across the whole of the dial of each Mood timepiece. "I'm very happy to present this new collection the Icelink Mood,” shares Andy Sogoyan, IceLink’s Founder and CEO. “It takes the IceFuel© innovation a step further and proudly states: Life's too short - Shine". There are four different moods to choose from: Discretion and elegance with the Mood All Black, dream and innocence with Mood Wings, sensibility and vision with the Mood Eyes and dynamism and rebellion with the Mood Skull. Each model is available in steel or PVD with a black or white rubber strap. IceLink also offers a choice of quartz or automatic movements for this new collection and each watch is water resistant to 30 metres and has a five year guarantee. We are looking forward to seeing this new collection at BaselWorld Hall 4 / A01. O For more information about Icelink click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Tissot is hoisting its sails RKeith W. Strandberg
SAILING TOUCH
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Last year, during my BaselWorld appointment with Tissot, they just kept bringing out new watches, each one remarkable and worthy of coverage, and this year seems no different. Following up on the success of the Sea-Touch is the Sailing Touch, for both men and women. This new watch uses Tissot’s unique tactile crystal and integrates dedicated sailing functions, including a practical tool for ascertaining weather patterns, a histogram to show conditions of the preceding six hours, a tool to measure relative pressure with the hands displaying the forecast tendency, a tide calculator with the hands and the display indicating the time of low or high tide, a regatta countdown for the crucial ten minutes leading up to the start, using convenient sonic beeps combined with the digital display, a device to measure speed over distance, as well as the traditional T-Touch features like a compass, two alarms, a perpetual calendar and a backlight – oh, and it tells the time too, in two time zones. In addition, the watch case and pushers have been redesigned with a nautical theme, including special visual cues, like the blue LCD background that speaks of the sea and the red
PRS 516 AUTOMATIC
VISODATE 1957 AUTOMATIC
tipped hands that evoke nautical flags. The men’s version features a red bezel, while the women’s is a striking blue. Next on the line up: Tissot is mining its history with the Visodate 1957 Automatic, an updated version of a classic Tissot timepiece. True to its traditional functions, the day and date of this watch are easily visible, and historical Tissot logos on the dial and heritage buckle ensure that the origins of innovation are remembered. In another nod to history, Tissot is introducing the Tissot PRS 516 Chrono Auto Valjoux, based on the PRS 516 which the brand considers a timekeeping legend. The 45mm watch utilizes styling cues from the original, includ-
ing the steel bracelet or leather strap with cut out circles, while updating it for today’s customer. This new series also offers a three-hand automatic version, as well as five quartz models with 42 mm cases. Two new limited editions were released in time for our deadline, including the Tissot Glam Sport Danica Patrick Limited 2010 (featuring 25 diamonds) and the 2010 T-Race MotoGP Limited Edition (which includes in the helmet presentation box a set of authentic motorcycle grips). To complement the new watches, as well as those already in the collection, Tissot is also introducing a brand new advertising campaign, designed to make luxury watches more accessible by showing its ambassadors doing activities associated with the watches (like Danica Patrick SCUBA diving with the SeaTouch). Called ‘In touch with your time’, this black and white print campaign originates from Los Angeles-based art and fashion photographer Jeff Burton and has been created by the agency SelectNY. O For more information about Tissot click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Philip Stein gets fruity RSophie Furley
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There is nothing like a good splash of colour to cheer us up. So what a delight it was to discover Philip Stein’s new Fruitz Collection with its 24 bright and sunny flavours. However there is more to the Fruitz collection than a cheerful colour, this watch collection also claims to boost energy levels, reduce stress, increase concentration and improve sleep - not bad for a watch! The Fruitz Collection is equipped with the Philip Stein’s proprietary Natural Frequency Technology that was introduced in 2008. It works thanks to a metal disc inside the watch that has been infused with key frequencies (79 hertz) corresponding to the chief resonant frequency of the earth. When worn on the wrist, the watch emits frequencies to the body’s biofield that are harmonious and grounding, resulting in a variety of physical benefits. Philip Stein wanted to create a new sporty collection that would appeal to a broader public at an affordable price. “We thought about the natural frequencies and decided to do something fun, colourful, full of vitamins and antioxidants,” explains William Stein, President. “As the essential vitamins in fruit nourish your body, the technology in Fruitz watches provides essential natural frequencies which offer positive effects on the wearers overall sense of well-being.” There are 24 fruity models whose dials depict the cross section of a fruit - everything from watermelons to oranges, blueberries to grapefruits, peaches to raspberries. Each dial is laser cut to show the different veins of the fruit and the indexes are raised seeds that add to the three dimensional effect. The 36mm watches come in gold-plated or steel cases with a three hand quartz movement and are fitted with a silicon strap in coordinating hues.
BALCKBERRY LYCHEE
The principal market for Fruitz is currently the United States with the department stores Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdales, however the brand is looking to expand into Europe and other markets. So for interested retailers, check out the new Fruitz Collection at BaselWorld in Philip Stein’s new booth in Hall 1.1. O For more information about Philip Stein click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
To see if the claims were true, I asked Philip Stein if I could personally test one of their Fruitz watches. The parcel arrived on the first day of the Geneva Shows so I was able to put it through its paces. It is difficult to know to what extent it worked, but I can honestly say that I have felt more relaxed, positive and motivated than usual. The design was also a huge hit as it was quickly spotted on my wrist by my fellow watch friends and colleagues. There is also a really cool website www.fruitzwatches.com to help customers choose which fruit they like best. So it definitely gets the Europa Star thumbs up!
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Mondaine goes mechanical RKeith W. Strandberg
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Mondaine, the Official Swiss Railways Watch, launched its first consumer watch version of the Swiss Railways Clock in 1986. This year, the company features an automatic version with its iconic railway dial, using a Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement. The 42 mm watch, called the Mondaine Valjoux 101, commemorates the legendary locomotive B3/4 no.1384, built in 1909. In other mechanical offerings, Mondaine introduces the Retro Chic line, a Day/Date version of the Railway watch that is simple, yet still striking. In quartz, Mondaine debuts the Mondaine Classics Collection, a trio of timepieces that use the iconic white Railway dial in three sizes, 30, 33 and 36 mm. If you want something bigger, Mondaine also introduces the Giant at 42 mm. This mat brushed steel timepiece comes with a red leather strap, silver tone dial and raised hour and printed minute markers. Last but not least, Mondaine introduces the Savonette pocket watch. This elegant classic has a mat brushed stainless steel case (48 mm), the classic Mondaine Railway dial and its push-to-open lid protects the hardened, curved mineral crystal.O For more information about Mondaine click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Size 11-1/2''' Height 3.9mm 3 hands with date 28800 vibrations per hour 24 jewels Automatic and hand winding
JAPAN MADE
MOVEMENT DIVISION
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Luminox dives deep RKeith W. Strandberg
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This year at BaselWorld, Luminox dives deep, introducing the Deep Diver, a timepiece water resistant to 500 metres and using an automatic helium release valve. Long in development, this watch meets the specifications required to be designated a dive watch (ISO 6425). Though many companies make watches with 200 metres water resistance, 500 metres is a different animal, altogether, requiring thicker sapphire crystal, thicker case backs and, since steel deforms at 500 metres, more robust overall case construction. In addition, Luminox developed a patent pending Bezel Locking System, which prevents the bezel from changing position. TONY KANAAN WATCH
DEEP DIVER
The special 45mm Deep Diver timepiece is produced in limited quantities, as more tests are done and more time is required during the production process, with each watch individually numbered. The watch comes in a specially-designed, water resistant box, which can be used to store gear like the diver’s mobile phone and camera more safely while on deck.
Luminox goes racing with Tony Kanaan Tony Kanaan, the IndyCar Racing League champion driver, was thinking about designing a watch, so he turned to Luminox. The Luminox designers worked closely with Kanaan to make a brand new timepiece, creating a new sandwich case that will be the platform for all Tony Kanaan watches moving forward. At each step of the design and production process, Kanaan approved every aspect of the timepiece, from the overall design to the many small details. The first timepiece, a limited edition of 500 pieces, will prominently feature Kanaan‘s signature colours, bright blue and orange. Individually numbered, this Swiss Made quality chronograph has a black PVD steel top affixed
with six satin-finished screws, a black steel bottom and a black carbon fibre middle section, a nod to the high tech materials in IndyCar Racing. The numbers on the black dial are in Kanaan’s orange, while bright blue marks the chronograph sub dials. "At Luminox, we are delighted to be working with Tony Kanaan,“ said Luminox President Barry Cohen. "It’s an honour for a Luminox timepiece to be part of his essential gear. Having him so deeply involved with the design was a true pleasure and we look forward to developing this partnership in the years to come.“ The asymmetrical and oversized case, 44 mm, is a real departure for Luminox, the perfect way to mark the brand’s first foray into big-time motor racing. The partnership with Kanaan is no one-shot deal, either. Plans are already in the works for three future Tony Kanaanthemed timepieces. “It was a wonderful experience for me to work on the design and so many details of my watch,” Kanaan said. “Design, performance and precision - I almost feel like my new Luminox watch is a part of me when I wear it.” O For more information about Luminox click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Gucci goes classic RKeith W. Strandberg
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The Classic Collection is the big news at Gucci this BaselWorld. A range of styles and variations is available, from the smaller feminine sizes to the unisex medium. A larger model with a chronograph movement speaks of the Gucci lifestyle, with design cues from yachting and marine sports. There is a stunning version of the 27mm model that features a diamond bezel encircling a mother-of-pearl dial set with 12 sparkling diamonds. The Gucci Classic timepieces are available with steel, leather, rubber or PVD bracelets. Leather and rubber options bear the signature GG imprint on the inside of the strap. The collection also offers a wide selection of dial colours, including jet black, brushed silver, pure white or classic Gucci brown. Iconic details that are the signature of all Gucci timepieces run throughout the collection, from the Gucci ‘G’ shadow monogram
on the watch face, to the Gucci diamond motif discreetly displayed on the dial, or the green-red-green web on the sports models, these finishing flourishes serve to underline the rich history behind this collection. The Gucci Classic Collection was designed by Gucci’s Creative Director, Frida Giannini. "As Gucci approaches its 90th year, the House
is enjoying a unique duality which counterbalances modernity with heritage, innovation with craftsmanship, and trends with sophistication,” says a Gucci spokesperson. “Gucci has been designing and developing watches since the early 1970s, and the result is cuttingedge timepieces designed to last a lifetime. “Underscoring this duality is the launch of a new worldwide ‘Timeless’ advertising campaign, which draws on two separate images from Gucci’s photographic archives, both featuring 60s style icons Verushka and Peter Sellers,” the spokesperson continues. “Looking as fresh, relevant and fashionable today as when they were first shot, the timeless quality of these photos reflects Gucci’s exceptional fashion heritage and its nearly nine decade legacy of quality and innovation. This backdrop offers the perfect context in which to showcase three new products from the latest collection of Gucci Timepieces: The G-Gucci, The I-Gucci and the Gucci Classic Chronograph. All these watches are destined for discerning customers who will appreciate the iconic details - that are the signature of all Gucci timepieces." O For more information about Gucci click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Beastie Boys for Doctors without Borders and Nixon RKeith W. Strandberg
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One of the big introductions at BaselWorld for Nixon is the Nixon x Beastie Boys, a collaboration to benefit the Doctors Without Borders charity. “We love the Beastie Boys, always have, and when they approached us to do something fun with the Time Teller for a great cause, it was a no brainer,” says Andy Laats, President and CEO, Nixon. In addition, Nixon is introducing the Ceramic 51-30, arguably the largest ceramic watch on the market today. “The watch is big, 51mm in diameter, and it’s great in ceramic because it’s lighter, smoother and therefore easier to wear,” Laats says. “Big watches are powerful, and big white ceramic watches are even more so.” The last key introduction Nixon was ready to talk about is the Magnacon, which is a Swiss
NIXON X BEASTIE BOYS
CERAMIC 51-30
MAGNACON
chronograph paired with a ballistic nylon band which, according to Laats, makes a smart blend of sporty, comfortable and refined design. “I’ve noticed quite a few watch brands that only really make sense in a narrow price segment or limited to a strict set of materials,” Laats adds. “Nixon, refreshingly, is a multifaceted brand with many stories to tell. To have products ranging from the US$85 Beastie Boys Time Teller to the US$2400 Ceramic 51-30 in the same range, in both the best surf shops at home and worldwide, is testament to the brand’s depth and authenticity. “We’ve been told by our retail partners that the holiday season was a struggle, but that the watch category and Nixon in particular performed above expectations” he adds. This year, for the first time ever, Nixon moves into Hall 1.1. O For more information about Nixon click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Reactor continues its quest RKeith W. Strandberg
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Reactor continues its mission to produce the world’s best sports watches, with no compromise. The BaselWorld introduction is the new GAMMA TI, a 45.5 mm solid titanium timepiece that is water resistant to 300 metres. The watch includes four layers of anti-reflective coating on the inside of the crystal, a 10-year lithium battery and “Never Dark” dial technology (using SuperLuminova and tritium tubes). This new watch retails for US$550 on a titanium bracelet and $525 on a rubber strap. Early responses from retailers on this model have been “terrific”, according to Jimmy Olmes, President of Reactor Watch. “The GAMMA TI has every bell and whistle to make it the perfect water sports watch,” he says. In general, business has been difficult, but not
non-existent. “Our specialty business was actually up last year, but our overall business was down as we decided to stop doing business with our largest customer,” Olmes adds. “We are seeing some opportunity, as many jewellery stores are getting tired of the heavy discounting of some brands and are considering replacing some of them with Reactor. We have also picked up some business from the
lower end Swiss brands as they have done a poor job protecting their retailers.” Reactor also plans to introduce a new 1000M professional dive watch, a dual time watch using two movements (one chronograph movement and one three hand movement), as well as a new tide watch.O For more information about Reactor click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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Furtive: Changing faces RSophie Furley
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Interchangeability is one of the hottest trends sweeping the watch industry right now. There are timepieces with interchangeable straps, different bezels and alternative casebacks; there are reversible watches and even timepieces that change into a pocket watch or a desk clock. Furtive has taken interchangeability to a whole new level by inventing an ingenious system that allows its owner to change the dial. This brand new, patented concept works by pressing on the left side of the case to release a cover. The dial then simply slides out like a cdrom ejects from your computer. Each timepiece comes with a choice of six dials: black, navy
blue, brown, flame red, purple and white (and two straps in black and white). The dials have two coats of lacquer and black or white Arabic numerals, depending on the colour of the dial. “Colour is something that is alive, it represents the mood of the day, a certain joie de vivre, in whatever situation we find ourselves. It must be in harmony with the moment and can also match our vestimentary style,” explains Jacques Marchand, Furtive’s founder and CEO. “I wanted to give this jewellery watch a ‘fashionable’ 6 in 1, unisex look with a simple system for changing the dials,” he continues. The Swiss Made two-hand quartz movement is completely protected from the dial changing mechanism so no dust or water can come into contact with the movement. The polished,
stainless steel case is made up of an amazing 40 different parts; the caseback is screwed down with four screws and the mineral glass is also screwed on from the inside of the case. The process of changing the dial doesn’t influence the time in any way, as the hands stay in place, so no resetting is necessary. The timepiece is also water resistant to 30 metres, in spite of the opening mechanism. And if that isn’t enough, Furtive also offers a package with six blank dials (in steel or brass) and an engraving machine for those who would like to design their own dials. There is also the possibility of a private label agreement for companies wishing to personalise the watches with their own name. This truly unique concept offers future distributors and retailers something fun and unusual to offer their clients. This is a watch that could appeal to a variety of clients: those who love to have six watches for the price of one, people who like to match their watches with their wardrobe, amateur artists who want to design their own dials, or even those who are looking for a gift to offer a loved one, but don’t know their favourite colour – that’s a lot of potential clients for one watch! O For more information about Furtive click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com
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SERIES OA by a. b. Art 316L stainless steel 40.50mm timepiece fitted with an ETA 2824-2 automatic calibre. Hours, minutes, seconds, date, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, screw down mineral glass case back, silvered or black dial with minute markers, 31-hole date indicator or date window at 6 o’clock and black, brown or grey leather strap.
RED LABEL MUSEUM CALENDOMATIC™ by Movado Stainless steel 42mm timepiece equipped with an ETA 2824-2 automatic calibre. Hours, minutes and date. Museum black dial with centre date disc; silvered Dauphine hands; round hour markers at 12 o’clock; flat, scratch resistant sapphire crystal with convex date window at 6 o’clock; black alligator strap and water resistant to 30 metres.
600 SERIES CHRONOGRAPH by Jacob Jensen Titanium 38mm chronograph powered by a Swiss Made Ronda movement. Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph, flat dial with circular brushed face, scratch resistant sapphire crystal and genuine leather strap.
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CATCH THE MOON By Emile Chouriet Steel timepiece equipped with an automatic ETA 2834 movement with exclusive Emile Chouriet module. Hours, minutes, seconds and date, black paved dial with 10 diamonds (0.07 carats), white hands, date window at 6 o’clock, sapphire crystals front and back, black leather strap, folding clasp and water resistant to 30 metres.
CHATEAU DES MONTS by Doxa Stainless steel timepiece fitted with a manual movement. Hours, minutes and seconds; black, ivory or white dial, white or blue hands and hour markers; small seconds counter at 9 o’clock; anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal; engraved, individually-numbered transparent back with hinged cover and black or brown leather strap with buckle. Limited edition of two series of 120 watches each to celebrate the brand’s 120th anniversary.
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AVIATOR CHRONO by Camel Active Brushed stainless steel 46mm timepiece powered by an ETA G10.711 quartz movement. Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date and tachometer, sand-coloured dial, date window at 4 o’clock, luminescent hour markers and hands, brown roughened leather strap with rivets and water resistant to 100 metres.
GENT AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH COMPLICATION by Davidoff 316L stainless steel 46mm chronograph powered by an Automatic, ETA 7750 Valjoux movement with Soprod module 753-24h. Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, second time zone indicating 24 hours and 42-hour power reserve. Volcanic grey guilloché dial, hands and hour markers with SuperLumiNova, sapphire crystals front and back, brown alligator strap and water resistant to 50 metres.
WORLDMASTER ORIGINAL 1888 by Atlantic 316L stainless steel 42mm timepiece powered by an ETA 2824-2 automatic, COSC-certified, movement. Hours, minutes, seconds and date at 3 o’clock; hand-polished, cambered bezel; silvered, black or cream sunray decorated dial; hand-applied nickel or pink gold hour markers; Arabic numerals, black or brown calfskin strap and water resistant to 50 metres.
BEL GENT CLASS CHRONO by Gc 44mm brushed and polished stainless steel timepiece equipped with a Swiss Made mechanical automatic movement with circular grain decoration. Hours, minutes and seconds in the centre; 42-hour power reserve; guilloché and sunray finishing on a copper tone dial; opening at 6 o’clock on the balance spring; sapphire crystals front and back and water resistant to 100 metres. Limited edition of 250 pieces worldwide.
ANNIVERSARY SKELETON CHRONOGRAPH 1910-2010 by Aerowatch Stainless steel 42mm timepiece equipped with an Aerowatch Calibre 61 SQ (Base Valjoux) automatic movement. Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o’clock, central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, sapphire crystals front and back, coffee coloured leather strap, deployment buckle and water resistant to 50 metres.
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WorldWatchReport 2010: All Eyes on BRIC RIn collaboration with Florent Bondoux, IC-Agency
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To coincide with BaselWorld, IC-Agency, leader in Luxury Digital Marketing, is publishing the WorldWatchReport 2010. The market study that is a reference for the luxury watch industry has been created in partnership with Europa Star with, for the first year, the help from the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. For its 6th edition, the study places an important focus on decrypting the online demand for luxury watch brands in the emerging markets otherwise known as BRIC: Brazil, Russia, India and China. Predestined to be fueling the industry’s major growth for years to come, these emerging markets represent a strategic opportunity for luxury watch brands. If significant signs of recovery in sales have recently been announced by groups such as Richemont and Swatch, it is largely due to the demand increase for Swiss matchmaking in these regions. They have become true ‘Eldorados’, not only for Swiss matchmakers, but for the luxury industry in general. One would only have to look at the latest financial results of
Geographic Search Origin January to December 2009
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the industry’s main actors. Sales in China have surged 87 per cent for Swatch Group while the Asia-Pacific zone has increase sales by 25 per cent for Richemont. Online opportunities Henceforth, it has become of capital importance for the authors of the WorldWatchReport to decrypt the online behavior of luxury watch consumers from these countries. Besides China whose perspectives never cease to please the brands’ executives, the Russian, Brazilian and even Indian markets respond, on the Internet, to specific codes and demonstrate distinct preferences for luxury watch brands. In Russia, for example, with 45 million Internet users, Google is not, by a large margin, the most prevalent search engine. With more than 51 per cent market share, Yandex is the main portal for millions of Russian consumers daily online search queries. In China (400 million Internet users), Baidu tops the American firm with more than 63 per cent market share. When considering that 50 per cent of online inquiries for a product or brand pass through a search engine, we understand the strategic importance for brands to proceed with prudence when deploying their digital communication in these key markets. What is in it for luxury watch brands? According to the preliminary results of the market study, almost 12 per cent of search queries for the 25 brands included in the WorldWatchReport come from BRIC markets. China leads with 59 per cent of the demand from BRIC countries, followed by Brazil with 20 per cent, and then Russia and India come in with 13 per cent and 8 per cent respectively. Compared to the United States or Europe, who command 41.3 per cent and 40.9 per cent of global demand respectively, these numbers attest a latent and significant demand from the luxury watch clientele in BRIC countries, demand which must be captured by brands. Brazil: a sleeping giant With over 200 million inhabitants, and its affluent population concentrated around the capital Rio de Janeiro, Brazil is still a difficult market for luxury brands to grasp, mainly due to prohibitive tariffs on imports. Therefore, the selection usually reduces itself to
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Geographic Search Origin in the BRIC Markets January to December 2009
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four of the most notorious brands (Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer and Cartier) who collectively account for 90 per cent of the demand, according to Internet searches performed by Brazilian consumers. This is one of the strongest concentrations of demand around only a handful of watch brands. In other words, the other 21 brands represent barely 10 per cent of online demand. These initial findings lead Richard Courbrant, journalist, WorldWatchReport contributor and expert in the South American watch market, to describe Brazil as a “sleeping giant” waiting for trade to open. Russia: Distribution is key Accounting for 13 per cent of search volume among BRIC countries, Russia presents many opportunities for luxury watch brands. Wealthy Russians searching for externalization of their success favour luxury cars and designer clothing ahead of luxury watches. Despite a distribution network that is underdeveloped due to import barriers and corruption, we find brands like Longines and Rado, with 7.9 per cent and 7.4 per cent online market share respectively, that are equipped with distribution networks that reach beyond Moscow and Saint Petersburg’s commercial zones, as well as a lower adapted pricing policy. Alexey Tarkhanov, Chief of Culture Department at Kommersant Publishing House and WorldWatchReport contributor, confirms this trend by saying that Russia presents “great growth opportunities along with relatively little supply awareness”.
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India: The power of Bollywood Though India represents a relatively small portion of online demand compared to the other BRIC markets (8 per cent according to the WorldWatchReport) sales for watches with an entry price above 1,000 CHF increased by 55 per cent in 2009, while jewellery only progressed by 19 per cent (AT Kearney Report). Watch brands’ strategies centred on local ambassadors seem to be powerful channels of communication. Adding India to the study’s scope results in Audemars Piguet’s Sachin Tendulkar leading the ranking of most searched Ambassador for haute horlogerie brands . Indeed, more than 1 out of 2 searches (55 per cent) concern the famous Indian cricket player, pushing the 2008 number one Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador and actress Diane Kruger to second place. In the coming years, it is likely that other ambassadors coming from the BRIC markets are going to challenge Hollywood actors and renowned athletes. Anita Khatri, Times of India General Manager and WorldWatchReport contributor, says “Bollywood influences Indian consumers in a big way”. She continues by explaining the high levels of notoriety of certain brands and their flagship products: “TAG Heuer is promoted by Bollywood’s most successful filmstar Shah Rukh Khan and not to forget Leonardo DiCaprio. Omega is promoted by Abhishek Bhachan and Nicole Kidman, all extremely popular brand ambassadors among Indians”. China: The Internet as a strategic communication tool China represents the pillar of the current growth of the industry, with performance numbers that easily surpass those of the other emerging markets. This market is currently the third largest consumer of luxury goods, and will rank first by 2015. China’s strategic importance has pushed Internet growth at the expense of print media. If brands would traditionally invest in magazines, they cannot replicate this recipe in China where the magazine market is constantly evolving and slows down any coherent or lasting image. When 59 per cent of watch brand searches from BRIC are performed by Chinese consumers, according to the WorldWatchReport, and that there are an estimated 50 million bloggers in China, we begin to understand why the Internet is considered the primary factor influencing the act of purchasing, while boutiques are considered to be in second position and magazines in seventh (BCG Asia). O
Raboud Group serves the watch-making industry‌ Raboud Group is a Swiss company that specializes in the design and building of booths. Working with international watch companies, Raboud Group combines prestige, know-how and high quality workmanship. Many important creations can be seen at the Baselworld and the SIHH events. With a very competitive pricing for highly prestigious booths, Raboud Group has gained the trust of companies such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Raymond Weil, Piaget, Boucheron, BÊdat & Co to name just a few. Raboud Group's production facility is located in Bulle, a small city in the canton of Fribourg (situated between Geneva and Basel) with a staff of more than 80 highly qualified employees. Many prestigious hotels, restaurants (more than 60 only in Geneva), stores (including many retail watch and jewellery stores in Switzerland),corners, Geneva airport, boating centres, and so on, are among its customers. The in-house and external designers who specialize in the watch sector act as an orchestra leader, which is essential for all large projects. Indeed, the set-up of a booth involves more than 20 different jobs : interior decorators, electricians, carpet layers, painters, air-conditioning specialists, and so on. The Raboud Group organization covers the construction, the set-up, the dismantling and the storage. Raboud Group shares the same qualities as its watchmaking customers : passion for detail, quality craftsmanship and mastery of complex knowhow, while meeting tight deadlines and the assigned budget. Combining creativity, strict industrial control and the hand-crafted feel, Raboud Group has taken part in many trade shows in Switzerland, Europe and the rest of the world, where it has delivered the high quality of work that is expected within this highly competitive field.
1630 Bulle - Switzerland | Phone + 41 26 919 88 77 | raboudgroup.com
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Retailer Innovations In today’s radically different retail landscape, it is important for stores to stand out. Retailers who do something out of the ordinary have the opportunity to gain market share and distinguish themselves from competing retailers. Europa Star talked to four companies who are thinking, and doing things out of the box.
RKeith W. Strandberg and Sophie Furley Patek Philippe and the sweet smell of success Clients who visit the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva will notice an exquisite new fragrance as they enter the company’s historic boutique on the Rue de Rhone. At first it is difficult to tell whether this unusual scent is coming from the exotic flower arrangements that decorate the reception area or, whether it’s a lingering perfume from a client who has just left the store with a smile and a brand new timepiece. In fact, this elegant fragrance, baptized Grand Quai (which was the original address of the Patek Philippe Salons), is the invention of Petra de Castro, Director of External Relations for the Salons, and Daniel André, independent perfumer. The fragrance is diffused throughout the boutique to create a welcoming smell. The mix of different elements to create the perfume was inspired by the restoration of the Salons, such as leather, different woods and watchmakers’ oils that mingle together. We are so dominated by our sense of sight that our other senses hardly come into play when purchasing a new timepiece, or do they? Touch is important, the weight of a watch, how comfortable it feels on the wrist etc. and the sound of a minute repeater will always be vital to the connoisseur, but no one
PATEK PHILIPPE
will ever enjoy the smell of a timepiece like they might appreciate the smell of the interior of a new car, for example. Like luxury itself, smell is emotional. Who hasn’t suddenly caught a certain whiff of something and been transported back in time in an instant? It could be the scent of a long lost lover’s perfume, or the aroma from our grandmother’s kitchen. One whiff and memories that we thought we had forgotten forever come flooding back. The technical term for this phenomenon is olfactory-evoked recall and it has been scientifically proven that smell is one of the most powerful senses in recalling memories as it has a direct pathway to the part of the brain that governs emotions and memory. So creating a fragrance to match the happy moment of a new purchase is subtle but incredibly smart. To celebrate this new Patek Philippe fragrance, the brand has created a special event entitled Heures et Senteurs, Hours and Fragrances in English, that presents a collection of historical perfumes next to timepieces and precious objects from the same period. The promenade through the exhibits starts in 1853 with Eau de L’Impératrice from Guerlain which is exhibited alongside a pendant watch (No. 4719) which was owned by Britain’s Queen Victoria
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and a selection of other pendant timepieces from the same period in the form of violins and mandolins. Twelve display units present the years that were historically important in the history of perfume and the history of Patek Philippe’s feminine timepieces. There are famous perfumes from Guerlain to Cabochard, Caron, Nina Ricci, Hermès, Paco Rabanne and Shiseido. This exhibition was made possible thanks to the master perfumer Daniel André and the rich collections of timepieces in the Patek Philippe museum that are on loan to the boutique for the duration of the event. The event was a huge success with Patek Philippe’s female clients and the company hopes to repeat the experience in some of its other boutiques. A unique event like this is an original way to reinforce the bond between one’s clients and the brand. It isn’t a shortterm sales booster, it’s a long-term relationship builder. The return on investment is impossible to calculate but it’s definitely there, as every person at the event now feels much closer to the brand they love and admire. As for the Salon’s new decorative perfume, when asked whether sales had been positively influenced by the fragrance, Petra de Castro admits that out of all the clients she had questioned, no one had expressed a dislike to the new fragrance and that sales had been exceptional since its launch. Whether this is due to the beginning of the end of the recession or the new fragrance, she couldn’t tell, but it’s good news either way!
Chronopassion and L’Heure Asch putting the play in display Most retailers display watches in their windows in the same, traditional way – rows and rows of watches in brand-supplied fixtures. Some try to do things differently, but it’s tough to stand out from the crowd. A revolutionary new window display system, called ‘Carrousel’, was recently debuted in Paris and Geneva, giving the customer control of the watch displays in the store’s window, even when the store is closed. The customer is clearly king with this innovative breakthrough in retail display. After all, today’s world, with iPhones, video on demand and customization, is all about the customers having it their way. “The problem with retail watch display is that it's all the same," says Xavier Dietlin, owner of Dietlin Artisans Métalliers in Lausanne, Switzerland. "I was in Hong Kong before I came up with the idea and in one street alone I walked past 10 retail stores, and their windows all looked exactly the same. Store after store of the same display material, the same watches and same flatness. I knew we had to come up with something radically different. The Carrousel is completely unique, with movement and life."
The idea for the Carrousel is based on the old View-Master toy, where you pushed a button and the slide changed. In this iteration, however, the watches appear and disappear in the display boxes like magic - the watches are there, the display box goes dark, then other watches are there. At the heart of the system is a rotating core in each box that displays four ‘niches’, each of which can hold up to five watches. The niches display the watches and add security, as the system locks if it is compromised in any way. The retailer can decide the rate of change of the display boxes, the length of display and other things, via a computer controlled interface. An infrared button on the exterior window glass gives customers the ability to control the niches – rotating them at their whim and will. The goal is that customers become entranced by the technology and the interactivity, spending more time in front of the window, looking at all the watches. Laurent Piccioto, owner of Chronopassion, one of the best watch boutiques in Europe, was trying to figure out how he could display his watches better. The display window of his retail shop in Paris was crowded with watches and it was a bit of a mess, he admits. He knew
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it was the wrong way to do it, but he didn’t know what else to do. So, he called Dietlin and asked him to come up with something new. The Carrousel is the result. “I had over 25 brands and 120 watches in my window, which is only two metres wide. It was a bazaar!" Piccioto says sheepishly. "This system lets me display over double the amount of watches in total clarity. People love playing with the display and I have noticed that many of them are now less intimidated to come inside and take a look around too." Currently, only two retailers are using the system, which, as you can imagine, isn’t cheap. Chronopassion in Paris has the exclusivity for France, while L’Heure Asch in Geneva will be the sole retailer using it in Switzerland. Dietlin will roll this system out around the world, keeping the use very exclusive.
Mark Gold Jewellers offers coffee and carats Ten years ago, Mark Gold opened Mark Gold Jewellers in Durban, a coastal city in South Africa, and combined it with a high-end coffee shop, called Coffee at Mark Gold. A strange combination, to say the least, but it has worked phenomenally well. “A strong part of our retail concept is the
combination of our jewellery store with our now very famous coffee shop,” says Gold. “It creates a lifestyle around our store. Usually, watch and jewellery stores are quiet, reserved and intimidating. It takes the edge off the store and makes it much friendlier. “For security reasons, we had to separate the shops to a point, but because of the design of the two stores you can see there is a link,” he continues. “There are tables and chairs that sit outside the store, so whoever sits there is exposed to the brand and the product. Once they are comfortable with the space, they are comfortable with us as their jeweller. Truly superior coffee is a key ingredient to Mark Gold’s success. “When we developed the concept, we knew very little about coffee, but we knew that if we delivered something below average, we would send the same signal about our watches and jewellery,” he explains. “We put together something that is way above average in terms of the delivery of the product, and the product itself is the best coffee in the world. In Durban, they have a Great Cappuccino competition and it is quite a big thing, and out of eight years, we have won it five times, and come in second twice.” Gold seizes the opportunity when people are sitting outside his shops drinking his coffee to approach them. “I ask them how their cof-
fee is, and after they say it’s excellent, I say, ‘Wait until you see our watches and jewellery.’ This way, I get them into the store. They either like it or they don’t, but at least they know about it.” Gold is seriously considering expanding. “It is our plan to roll more stores out,” Gold details. “We need two more in South Africa, one in Capetown and one more in Johannesburg. We are really niche, but there is a need for more stores. We want international stores, as well. We are looking at moving into the USA, in Florida.” Coffee and carats, the perfect recipe for Mark Gold.
Ace Jewellers and the virtual test drive One of the critical concerns for customers is what the watch or jewellery will actually look like on them. Now, Ace Jewellers in Holland is offering a way for customers to ‘try on’ watches and jewellery via the Internet. Ace Jewellers Group uses a revolutionary Augmented Reality retail tool called Holition. Ace, due to trademark concerns, currently only presents their own designed jewellery through Holition, but they are negotiating with watch brands right now. “We are a manufacturer of high-end fine jewellery (registered brands: Infinitas Platinum & Ace Collections) and retailers of high-end watches and fine jewellery,” explains Alon Ben Joseph from Ace. “Because we design our own jewellery, we own the rights for our designs
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and had the possibility to create the 3D models of the jewellery to implement in Holition. Then we implemented the online software into our eBoutique (the first authorized luxury jeweller’s eCommerce website in The Netherlands). “The first responses by consumers are great. The first buzz started on Twitter, so famous Dutch TV presenters re-tweeted our launch message and now blogs and traditional media are picking it up,” he continues. “Our old and new customers are responding very enthusiastically. Not only is it a great gadget and talking piece, but it really helps in sales conversions (online and in-store).” The way it works is that Holition takes a CAD image or a physical item, renders it into a 3D model. Then this is turned into a branded and personalized software file that can be used online or a stand-only unit in a physical store. Then the customers download the software file, print the PDF file with the watch (personalized for a brand) and cut the watch out and put it on
their wrist. As soon as they point the logo on the wristband at their webcam, they will see the actual watch or jewellery product in real size on their wrist. In theory Holition can work with anything that can be worn on the body: watches, rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, sunglasses, hats and in the near future clothing. “This is a great tool to create interaction with your consumers and gain data, knowledge and statistics on-line,” says Joseph. “This is preparing yourself for the future. eCommerce is here to stay and Holition is the key for consumer goods e-tailing in my view. “Imagine brands, travelling account managers and retailers can actually sell merchandise they don't stock,” he continues. “Buyers of watches always want to see case diameter and height on ones wrist. That is now no problem with Holition. I have no doubt that it
will boost sales (in long term for sure)! I am not saying that this is the holy grail, but a complimentary tool for our industry to engage consumers with our wonderful industry. Again I emphasize that in my perception Internet, software and eCommerce are NOT substitutes for physical stores and (sales) people, but an additional sales channel. I truly believe that luxury retail has to embrace cross-channel strategies. It seems that there are players in our industry that still believe Internet and eCommerce is a storm in a tea cup and will blow away. Internet is here to stay and I believe this is only the beginning of the possibilities.” O ACE JEWELLERS
TRENDS & COLOURS International Jewellery - www.CIJintl.com
www.CIJintl.com
2010
Editorial & Advertisers’ index A, B a. b. Art 141 Ace Jewellers 150, 151 Activ Westar 111 Aerowatch 142 Alexander Shorokhoff 105 Anson Group Limited 139 Antopi 133 Armaan Swiss Diamond Watches 92-94 Armand Nicolet 112 Armin Strom 19, 74-75, 79 Atlantic 142 Audemars Piguet 40, 145
Bell & Ross 33, 102 Bertolucci 82 BNB Concept 18 Boccia 95 Bonetto Cinturini 129 Brand DNA 40 Breitling 108 Bremont 67 Bulgari 30-32 C, D Camel Active 142 Carl F. Bucherer 25, 88 Cartier 44, 145
Celcius 89 Century 90 Chanel 4-5, 70-71, 156 China Watch Fair 156 Chopard 19, 38 Christophe Claret 27 Chronopassion 149, 150 Citizen 109 Concord 40 Corum 34-35 Couture COVER III Daniel Roth 32 Danish Design 98 Davidoff 142
Dior 94 Doxa 69, 141 E, F Emile Chouriet 85, 141 EPHJ 155 Equipe 115 Ernst Benz 114 Ernest Borel 66, 83 ETA 19 Eterna 86 Firemark 113 Frédérique Constant 116 Furtive 140
Editorial & Advertisers’ index G, H G91 152-153 Gc 142 Gérald Genta 32 Greubel & Forsey 19 Gucci 134 Guess 81 Hamilton 118-119 Harry Winston 44-45 Haurex 91 Hautlence 43, 46 L’Heure Asch 149, 150 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 159 Hublot 19, 84 I, J IceLink 126 Ingersoll 101 Jacob Jensen 99, 141 Jaeger-LeCoultre 2-3, 145 Jean Dunand 7 L Locman 96 Longines 100 Luminox 132 M, N Mark Gold Jewellers 150 Mauboussin 23 Maurice Lacroix 58-59 Milus 60-61 Mira 122-123
Miyota 131 Mondaine 130 Movado 141 Nixon 136 O, P Omega 78, 145 Orient Watch Company 124125 Oris 104 Parmigiani 19 Patek Philippe COVER I, 1, 10-13, 20, 148 Pequignet 57, 72-73 Perrelet 120 Philip Stein 128 Porsche Design 86 Promotion SpA 137 R Raboud Group 146-147 Rado 97 Raymond Weil 14-15, 22, 62-63 Reactor 138 Resultco 117 Richard Mille 16, 156 Richemont Group 20, 144 Rolex COVER II, 1, 20, 145, 156
S Seiko 106-107 Sellita 19 Skagen 103 Swarovski 47, 121 Swatch Group 18, 20, 40, 144 T, U TAG Heuer 21, 80, 145 TechnoMarine 24, 26, 40, 42 Terra Cielo Mare 87 The Watch Avenue 143, 156 Tissot 41, 127 Titoni 48 TMI Time Module 135 Tudor 28-29 Urwerk 49-56 V, Z Vacheron Constantin 23, COVER IV Ventura 68 Victorinox Swiss Army 3637, 110, 156 Vincent Bérard 76-77 Vulcain 64-65 Zenith 9, 24, 38-39
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160 LAKIN@LARGE europa star
Sandwiches and global warming With the Salon International de Haut Horlogerie (SIHH) over for this year and ten months for the organizers to forget what I’m about to write, I thought I would regale you with a couple of the more memorable moments from within those hallowed halls. Day one and early for the first press conference, I decided to have a coffee at one of the numerous excellent refreshment zones around the halls. 'Would you like sandwiches?' the charming waitress asked me. 'What are the choices?' I asked. 'Yes or no,' she replied in all seriousness. I settled for a croissant. By the time the first couple of conferences had finished, lunch beckoned and I, along with a couple of hundred other journalists and my Editor in Chief, Pierre Maillard, sat down hoping to be waited on hand and foot by some seriously attractive young waitresses. As luck would have it, we were served by an ugly waiter. There was a choice of sushi or something edible. I decided on soup followed by a mushroom volau-vent and fruit. Pierre opted for the sushi as a starter followed by sushi for the main course and actually hesitated about having sushi for dessert. However, prudence prevailed. Day two saw sandwiches already laid out on the tables. I sat down with my freebie copy of the Financial Times and began nibbling away whilst awaiting a coffee. A vaguely familiar journalist who goes by the name of Otto something or other, asked if he could sit at the table and in his prominent German accent asked if he could have one of the sandwiches. I nodded and pushed the plate over. “You are English ya?” To avoid a lengthy explanation about being Scottish and British I said yes. “Zo, vy is a sanvich called a sanvich?” he asked with raised eyebrows. I explained to him that in the 1760s, John Montagu, the Earl of Sandwich, was playing cards and despite being hungry didn’t want to stop for a meal. So he asked a serving wench to bring him some roast beef between two slices of bread to avoid getting his fingers greasy from the meat thus enabling him to continue gambling whilst eating. Impressed by my knowledge of useless information, he then said, “I know joke for sanviches,” and without waiting for my reaction continued. “Three men vorking on high building stop for lunch. First man say, ‘Ham sanvich again. I am sick of ham sanvich every day. Tomorrow I jump off building if I haf ham sanvich.’ Second man say, ’Everyday cheese. I sick of cheese. I jump off building if I haf cheese sanvich!’ Third man say, ‘Sausage, sausage, I sick of sausage sanvich every day. I jump off building if I haf more sausage sanvich!’ “Next day, first man see ham sanvich and jump off building. Second man see cheese sanvich and jump off building. Third man see sausage sanvich and he also jump off.
At funeral, the wives are crying. The wife of first man say, ‘If only he had told me I vould not haf made another ham sanvich.’ The wife of second man say, ‘If only he had told me I would not haf made another cheese sandwich." The third wife say, "I not know why he jump. He always make his own sanviches!" He laughed boisterously and I smiled politely as I left claiming an early appointment. The following day I had lunch with Pierre again (more sushi) and this is where the story really heats up. We talked about this and that and touched on a contentious global warming report, based on the work of some 2,500 scientists in more than 130 countries, that concluded industrialization, deforestation, and pollution have greatly increased atmospheric concentrations of water vapour, carbon dioxide and greenhouse gases that trap heat near the earth's surface and can no longer be absorbed by the trees and plants fast enough. Well, I have another theory: I believe that in the twenty years since the SIHH was founded it has become a major factor in the global warming problem. Let me explain. As we sat through lunch, at least fifty or so young ladies walked past, each one prettier, more elegantly dressed and sexier than the next. As the song goes, the temperature was rising and it wasn’t surprising. Then three sublime visions of ethereal beauty, wearing miniscule mini-skirts and with legs as long as the day, sauntered past. Elbows nudged, eyes winked, mouths were agape and there was the sound of silence – with the exception of the grating noise of male eyeballs as they swivelled to follow the long lean legs of the girls as they high-heeled it through the halls. The word ‘watch’ was never more prevalent than at that moment and the only ticking to be heard was from hyper-active hearts as they manfully pumped testosterone laden blood through bulging veins. The temperature had now risen perceptibly, not only within the halls but also outside as it melted Geneva’s blanket of snow. If the SIHH had been created in 1912 there would be far fewer icebergs and the Titanic would still be sailing today. And that’s my global warming theory. Sandwich anyone?
D. Malcolm Lakin Roving Editor
17th of September 1755. In the offices of the solicitor Mr. Choisy, a young Master Watchmaker from Geneva named Jean-Marc Vacheron is about to hire his first apprentice. This agreement is the first known reference to the founding watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and it represents the establishment of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watchmaking manufacturer in the world in continuous operation. Ever since this agreement, and true to the history that built its reputation, Vacheron Constantin has been committed to passing on its knowledge to each of its Master Watchmakers in order to guarantee the excellence and durability of its craftsmanship and of its timepieces.
Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement, Minute-repeater, Tourbillon, Perpetual calendar Ref. 80172/000R-9300