MAY - JUN 2019
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?
MAGAZINE
New Zealand The Road to Rural Bliss
AIRLINE REVIEWS
ISTRIA FOR FOODIES
HAKKA HOUSE
PUBLISHER'S LETTER
W
elcome to another issue of
Explorer Magazine, the digital, environmentally
friendly travel magazine
for true world wanderers. As with every issue we’ve scoured the planet for great insights, destinations
and
experiences
for
avid
travellers to enjoy. We start in rural China, where Fujian’s Tulou Retreat is showing the
role communities can play when it comes to sustainable tourism initiatives. We follow
our taste buds to Croatia and the foodie hub of Istria for fresh seafood and gourmet
truffles, and then jet Down Under to discover new and iconic lodges in New Zealand’s
North Island. Of course, like every issue, we also have update, news and reviews from
leading airlines to hotels to emerging and established destinations. Wherever you’re headed this summer, I hope that Explorer
Magazine continues to inspire you to explore new horizons. Safe Travels
David Leung Publisher
WORD IN PICS
Seeing is Believing Melbourne remains famous for its laneway art. Credit: Grand Hyatt
Huset, Longyearbyen is the gateway to the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, home to the polar bear. Credit: Up Norway
1 Great food under the Outback skies. Credit: Journey Beyond.
Yoga takes on new dimensions in the shadows of Mont Blanc. Credit: Savoie Mont Blanc
3 44 Stanley, a former factory site, has become Johannesburg’s coolest spot this summer.
Summer means hiking in California’s great national parks. Credit: Visit California
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WORD IN PICS From deserted beaches to tropical islands, here are the travel images inspiring our adventures this season.
3
6
2 Scarborough Beach is a gem for surfing. Credit: Maine Office of Tourism
4
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5 Rome at dusk. Credit: Sardatur Holidays
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What’s Happening
LANGKAWI INTERNATIONAl BEACH SOCCER TOURNAMENT Langkawi, Malaysia
August 24-28, 2019
ROsKIlDE FEsTIVAl Roskilde, Denmark
June 29 – July 7, 2019
The inaugural Langkawi International Beach Soccer Tournament
Established as a small-scale gathering created by two high school
promises to be a brilliant showcase of football skills and beach
students, the Roskilde Festival, held on the Viking island of Zealand,
culture, with big names in the sport including former internationals
Denmark, is now Europe’s largest cultural event and one which draws
Roberto Carlos and Eric Cantona expected to attend. The tournament
more than 100,000 attendees annually. This year the event’s eight stages
will include teams from Spain, France, Italy, Iran, Bahrain, Australia,
will bring in more than 150 acts, including Bob Dylan and his band; Cardi
Thailand, Indonesia, and Malaysia, all of whom will be competing for a
B, Christine and the Queens, and Tears for Fears, while festival-goers
US$10,000 first prize.
can enjoy camping, skating, swimming in the lake, and watching the infamous tradition, the annual naked run. www.roskilde-festival.dk
BORYEONG MUD FEsTIVAl Boryeong, Korea
July 18-28, 2019
NAADAM FEsTIVAl
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
July 11-15, 2019
Stepping into its 20th year, the Boryeong Mud Festival invites over a
Paying homage to Mongolia’s independence from China, Naadam, also
million travellers from around the globe to appreciate the benefits of the
known as "the three games of men", is held throughout the country
mineral-rich mud at Daecheon Beach in Boryeong, South Korea. Soak in
each summer, with the largest celebration dominating the capital city of
a giant mud bath, mud body painting, dance the afternoon away with
Ulaanbaatar. A Unesco-listed intangible cultural heritage, the traditional
looping pop and hip-hop music; and stay for the final weekend, which
festival exhibits the three games, Mongolian wrestling, equestrian
includes fireworks and a closing night party. www.mudfestival.or.kr
shows, and archery, as well as throat singing and dance performances. www.naadamfestival.com
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What’s Happening
HARI RAYA AIDIlfITRI International
August 11-15, 2019
INTI RAYMI Cusco, Peru
June 22, 2019
The worldwide religious holiday that marks the end of the holy month of
A 600-year-old Inca Empire celebration, Inti Raymi, Quechua for 'Sun
Ramadan, Hari Raya Aidilfitri, or Eid as it is known outside Malaysia, is a
Festival', honours the sun god at the Sacsayhuaman ruins in Cusco,
chance for communities to come together. Malays from across the country
Peru every year. Marking the winter solstice, which is also the Inca
will return to their family homes to celebrate the end of the holy month’s
New Year, through a series of traditional ceremonies, processions
fasting, with open homes or pergi beraya, a great chance for visitors to try
and dances, the festival includes the sacrifice of a pair of llamas to
traditional snacks, including ketupat, rice dumplings steamed in palm leaves;
give thanks to Mother Earth and to hope for a good harvest. There
kuih raya, biscuits and cakes baked for visitors, and of course Rendang, one
are also pre- and post-event open-air concerts and dance parades.
of Malaysia’s most iconic dishes. In Malaysia, Hari Raya Aidilfitri isn’t just a
www.intiraymiperu.com
Muslim celebration but one that brings together communities, neighbours and families as they break bread and pray for the year ahead.
PHUKET VEGETARIAN FEsTIVAl Phuket, Thailand
September 29 – October 7, 2019
GREEN MAN
Wales, United Kingdom
August 15-18, 2019
Celebrating the Chinese community's abstinence from meat during the
Wales' biggest music event combines good music, good times and good
ninth lunar month is believed to honour the gods and help worshippers
causes, with the beautiful backdrop of the Brecon Beacon Mountains.
retain good health. The festival is famous for its extreme festivities of
This ethically-minded family festival offers weekend camping amongst
piercing participants’ faces with swords, metal poles, wooden sticks and
Welsh forests, waterfalls and rivers, whilst putting on a line-up full of
other objects like guns and umbrellas. Other acts of self-mortification
indie and folk music names. This year’s event includes Eels, Sterolab,
are undertaken during the ten-day festival and visitors and spectators
Father John Misty and Sharon Van Etten.
are welcomed. www.phuket.com
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news
CRUISE LINE OPENS PRIVATE ISLAND IN THE BAHAMAS Unlike any private island the world has ever seen, Royal Caribbean International's highly anticipated Perfect Day at CocoCay – the first in the cruise line's new Perfect Day Island Collection of next-level private destinations around the world – is now open. The US$250 million transformation of the line's private island in The Bahamas debuts a combination of first-of-their-kind thrills and one-of-a-kind ways to chill, that forever changes what is possible in a vacation destination. From plunging down the tallest water slide in North America and travelling up to 137 metres in the air in the Up, Up and Away helium balloon, to conquering the Caribbean's largest wave pool, thrill seekers can find plenty of ways to put their courage to the test. For those looking to relax, Perfect Day features the Caribbean's largest freshwater pool, Oasis Lagoon; and pristine, white sand beaches with crystal-clear tropical water, so guests of all ages can create their perfect beach day – no matter what that may look like.
ODE TO GIN A new gin school and a contemporary boutique apartment hotel has opened in the English town of Hull, offering ginophiles an up-close-and-personal distilling experience. Go back to the classroom for a very different education experience by creating your very own blend of gin at Hull's Hotham's Gin School, before walking back to a designer apartment at the city's The Hideout - with your new bottle of personalised gin in hand, of course. Following its UK City of Culture success, Hull is not only seeing major regeneration and a big boost in visitors, but also the creation of a thriving local food and drink scene. For a gin experience to remember, the Gin School session includes a chat with a distiller over a glass of Hotham's Gin and Tonic, as well as a chance to try their gin range, before you head over to the Botanicals Bench to create your own recipe with the help of the experts before distilling it… while enjoying a ginbased cocktail. Finally, you'll bottle, name and label your unique creation, leaving the School safe in the knowledge that, when you finish enjoying it, you can buy another bottle, or even have it later recreated by the expert distillers and delivered straight to your door. 8 WWW.EXPLORER-MAGAZINE.COM
news
NEW TRAIN JOURNEY FOR AUSTRALIA A new train is set to launch onto Australian tracks late this year, linking Adelaide and Brisbane for 16 departures in its much-anticipated inaugural season. The new Great Southern train will explore the incredible landscapes and experiences across Australia’s diverse south-eastern corner with the option of a three-day northbound itinerary or a four-day southbound itinerary. It will be the newest addition to the internationally-regarded suite of great Australian rail journeys, which includes The Ghan (Adelaide-Darwin) and Indian Pacific (Sydney-Perth). Comprising 28 carriages and two locomotives, Great Southern will accommodate up to 214 guests per journey. On-board accommodation will include the option of Gold Single and Gold Twin cabins, as well as the more exclusive Platinum cabins. Exceptional food and wine and world-class hospitality will be at the heart of the Great Southern experience, along with many opportunities to explore beyond the tracks. The two-night, threeday journey from Adelaide to Brisbane features opportunities to step off the train to experience the spectacular Grampians National Park, the nation’s capital Canberra, and the stunning northern New South Wales coast. The four-day southbound journey will include an incredible beachside dining experience in northern NSW, an immersive day in the Hunter Valley and Newcastle region, and will also provide the opportunity to take in Victoria’s iconic Twelve Apostles. Great Southern’s maiden travel season will extend from December 6 through to January 27, 2020. MAY- JUNE 2019 ISSUE
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news
A NEW ROMA RETREAT NH Hotel Group is set to open its sixth property in Rome this summer, the boutique-style NH Collection Fori Imperiali. The upper-upscale property will be located within a stone's throw of the city's most famous historical sites, including the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Castel Sant'Angelo and the Vatican. Built in a magnificent palazzo decorated in nineteenthcentury style, within one of the most important archaeological sites in the world, the hotel will be infused with the hallmark elegance and
NEW BLUE TRAIN EXPERIENCES
sophistication of the NH Collection range. The NH
In 2019 South Africa's legendary Blue Train reinvented
which will be suites) decorated in a contemporary
its classic Cape Town/Pretoria journey, extending it to
and luxurious style, with most offering direct views
a two-night “slow travel” experience. Now the train
over some of Rome's most prized archaeological
company is giving its Hoedspruit safari departures
and architectural treasures. The boutique hotel will
a complete makeover for 2020 – making it a round-
also feature a rooftop bar on a terrace stretching
trip including sunrise and sunset Big 5 game drives, a
almost 300sqm, from which visitors can admire
boma dinner under the stars and even some traditional
the Roman Forum and the Vittorio Emanuele II
cultural dancing. The train will now offer its safari
Monument, while enjoying a curated range of
departure as a return round-trip to the Kruger that will
cocktails and paired bites. The establishment will
depart Pretoria in the morning of day 1 and arrive at
also offer a bar & breakfast area and an exclusive
the Kruger National Park early the next morning for
fitness room.
a full day guided safari including sunrise and sunset game drives. The train will then depart at 10pm to head back to Pretoria, arriving around noon on day 3. After boarding, guests will enjoy a five-course gourmet lunch, followed by high tea and then dinner before heading off to bed to be lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the train. The next morning it's an early start as the train arrives at Kruger's Numbi Gate at 5am. Safari vehicles with guides will be waiting to take guests off on a sunrise game drive, including an incredible bush breakfast at an exclusive, unfenced location inside the iconic Kruger Park. Guests return to the train for a decadent five-course lunch around noon and a rest/ freshen up. At 4pm guests head out on safari again, this time in a private 11,0000-hectare concession finishing off with a spectacular boma dinner under the stars at Nkambeni Safari Camp, complete with cultural dancing.
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Collection Fori Imperiali will have 42 rooms (9 of
news ADRIATIC WELLNESS The new Ikador Luxury Boutique Hotel & Spa in Croatia has unveiled its signature wellness enclave, Ikalia Spa, created by international spa consultants Illyria Wellness. Through wellness treatments, Ikalia Spa lures seekers into an enchanting journey of remembrance, tapping into legends and echoes of antiquity that still ripple in the waters of Ika. The new spa sources artisanal natural ingredients like 100 percent pure Baltic amber powder, local olive crush, organic distilled plant oils, and premium plant-based skin care featuring Croatian spring water, to create contemporary and effective treatments. Highlights from the new spa menu include the 50-minute Perfect Sounds: Tuning Ceremony in 432 Hz, a sound therapy ceremony designed to stimulate deep listening and attune your energy to the patterns of nature; the
110-minute Ancient Amber Journey, which
features an enlivening exfoliation with pure Baltic amber powder and a fragrant amber bath; and the 140-minute Worship of Ika, a devotional foot ritual, neroli-scented bath and 24K Golden Body Massage.
NEW JEWEL ON THE MEKONG The Uniworld Boutique River Cruising Collection is set to launch its newest luxury vessel, Super Ship Mekong Jewel, on one of Asia’s most important rivers. The S.S. Mekong Jewel, which will feature two dining venues, a swimming pool and all-suite accommodations, sets sail in January 2020 on 13-day itineraries that will take guests from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, with visits to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat and more. Cruisers can expect a newly-built vessel catering to just 68 guests, with al fresco dining on the upper deck, more space than other Uniworld ships, and one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios on the river.
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Airlines
GATEWAY TO CENTRAL ASIA Nick Walton revisits one of his favourite airlines on a red-eye flight from Kazakhstan to Thailand.
Background
The Seat
Kazakhstan’s national carrier, Air Astana is the little airline that
My previous international experiences on Air Astana had
could. A coveted Skytrax four-star airline, Air Astana regularly
always been on the airline’s A320 and 757 fleets, and first
thrills guests with levels of service rarely seen today, even on
impressions of the 767 cabin were one of space, elegance and
the market leaders.
privacy, especially when it became apparent that I was sharing
Check-in/The Lounge
the 30-seat strong cabin with only a handful of passengers. The cabin, which is lit with indigo mood lighting, features
Check-in at Almaty International Airport was a painless
seats in a 1-2-1 configuration, with window seats featuring
process but due to an odd disagreement between the airline
staggered armrests, meaning if you’re a window seat lover
and the operators of the airport’s sole international departure
like me you’ll want to get one of the seats with the armrest
lounge (which Air Astana business passengers have access to
on the aisle side.
but which charges for virtually everything) we set up shop at one of the cafes situated in the main departure hall. If you
My seat, 1K, on the starboard side, featured a large
have time on your hands, take a look through the surprisingly
entertainment screen, a wide armrest to the left, a small
good duty-free store nearby.
pouch for little travel essentials, a reading lamp, and controls
Boarding
for the seat position and entertainment system. There’s also easily accessed USB and AC ports at shoulder level, as
I’ve departed from Almaty a number of times and in many
well as a headphones jack. Although a pair of headphones
instances, it’s been a chaotic boarding process, especially when
was provided, I opted to use my own Bose QuietComfort 35
you need to take a bus out to your aircraft. Fortunately, boarding
IIs. Unlike the 757 products, the 767 features a true lie-flat
the Boeing 767-300ER, one of the last of the Everett factory line,
seat, which is ideal for the 7-hour flight from Almaty, around
was also painless, with an air bridge priority line giving business
the Himalayas to Bangkok, although I could have done with
class passengers a quick escape from the crowds.
another inch or two at shoulder level when in bed mode.
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Airlines Dining Before take-off crew offered glasses of sparkling wine and fruit juice, and even came back to refill my glass as we prepared for departure – something that’s far rarer than you’d expect in the business class cabins of the major players. A beaming cabin attendant offered me an amenity (Air Astana take their kits very seriously) packed with essentials like a toothbrush and toothpaste, an eye shade and comb, socks and earplugs, moisturising products by Payot and, always handy but often forgotten, a pen. She also asked if I would prefer dinner served immediately after takeoff or if I would like to wait and have it later in the flight. As this was a late evening departure, I decided to get cracking so I could get some sleep before arriving in Thailand. My pre-dinner drink – a Kazakh Snow Queen vodka and soda – as well as a choice of nuts and a fragrant hot towel, was served by the purser, Yedil, who introduced himself to each guest and offered to cater light and temperature levels (another first). Dinner this evening began with an appetizer of lemon, garlic and sesame seed tiger prawns on betel leaf with salmon roe, hoisin and fresh lime; and a lettuce leaf salad with tomato salsa, fresh basil and avocado. The prawns were perfectly cooked and suitably zesty and were followed by a butternut pumpkin and coconut soup with paprika-garlic croutons, a great blend of east and west. A choice of mains included Escabeche chicken with thyme, asparagus, polenta brulee and an orange jus; grilled beef tenderloin with confit turmeric potato, gai lan Asian greens and a demi-glace sauce; seabass with a creamy chu chee curry sauce, steamed jasmine rice and char-grilled zucchini; and coriander egg noodles with a mild laksa curry sauce, soya beans, zucchini, sweet pumpkin, fried tofu and dried onions. The beef was a great dish, tender and well-proportioned, without being too heavy.
I decided to skip the offered cheese plate and pandan, mango and coconut gateaux in lieu of some shut-eye. After several hours of deep sleep, I returned from the bathroom to a double espresso (how did you know!) and immigration forms for Thailand, perfectly timed for our descent.
Service Of all the things Air Astana gets right – and there are a lot of them – service is the most obvious one. Despite being a relatively small carrier, service levels are consistently excellent, in business class and economy (based on our numerous flights in both) and even with our late departure time from Almaty, the crew were upbeat, professional, patient, charming, and elegantly presented in their pressed grey uniforms. In fact, with so few passengers in business class, service was more akin to what you would find on a private jet, with dinner served quickly and efficiently after takeoff (I really don’t understand airlines that operate redeye flights only to take hours to serve what is usually an average meal), and breakfast served quietly and equally efficiently 90 minutes out from Bangkok. Evidently, the airline has spent a lot of time and money on service and its efforts are consistently paying off.
Entertainment The IFE system on Air Astana is another surprise; the collection of films and television shows is quite extensive, and the system was easy to navigate. I loved the flight path maps, which showed our progress as we hugged the expansive Himalayas south and then east.
Summary As with other flights we have reviewed, Air Astana has shown what a small airline is capable of, with a winning combination of hardware and software that’s punctuated with world-class service and true Kazakh hospitality. Fly Air Astana from Bangkok-Almaty return in Business Class from US$3,375 per person. www.airastana.com
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Community
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Community
Hakka HOUSE
Off the typical tourist track, in the Chinese town of Zhangzhou, the Tulou Retreat is a well-kept secret. Converted into a boutique hotel, traditional 600-year-old structures have been given a new lease on life in an effort to preserve the Hakka community’s timeless culture. By Grace Brewer
S
ituated within the rustic village of Taxia, and surrounded by beautiful mountains, Tulou Retreat is a local cultural success story. Dedicated to drawing guests into the Hakka way of life through a range of local cultural experiences,
guests are transported back to a simpler time, where family and community were everything. The Hakka, a branch of Han Chinese people originally from the Huanghe River Valley, migrated and settled in the Guangdong and Fujian provinces of China. Here the Hakka constructed the Tulou, circular compounds where extended families would live, secure and communal. Despite many families moving further
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Community
abroad, to Southeast Asia and beyond, many still send money back to China to help preserve the legacy of their culture. Housed within one of the original Tulou compounds, Tulou Retreat is part boutique hotel and part community initiative and is centred around building awareness while preserving the Hakka way of life. “Tulou is quite special,” says Amy Sun, director of product development at Tsingpu Travel, which operates the retreat. “When the retreat was designed two years ago, we tried our best to keep the original structure and highlight the best features of the buildings, using local construction materials to reflect the local culture and spirit of Hakka people. We spent over a year signing contracts with the local residents to rebuild the five original earth buildings for the retreat.” Located on a hillside in Nangjing County, the five restored earth buildings now house 24 luxury guest rooms, complete with traditional original wooden floors and vaulted ceilings. “An S-shape river splits the village into two, with two round Hakka houses on each side creating a symbol of yin and yang,” says Sun. However, much more than just a chic house of slumber, the retreat is also an active cultural centre, maintaining Hakka traditions,
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Community with more than 20 local experts employed to provide
Guests at Tulou have the opportunity to experience
authentic experiences to hotel guests.
the traditional lifestyle of the Hakka through a curated collection of authentic experiences offered through
The hotel has had a significant impact on the local
local guides. Over 20 authentic experiences are on offer,
economy, helping reduce urbanisation in the village
allowing visitors to learn the interesting Hakka culture
while also bolstering awareness of the Hakka culture.
through a myriad of activities, such as classes with local
“Besides increasing local employment, we work with
craftsmen, and tours through Taxia with village elders
external travel companies and invest a lot of time in
explaining the village’s Feng Shui and its ancient history.
social media to attract more and more attention, not only for the retreat itself, but to promote local resources, local
“We hope that our clients will have the chance to
culture and authentic living,” says CEO Xueshan Yang, who
experience real Hakka life, rather than a guided tour,”
was one of the visionaries behind the project. “Cultural
says Sun. “Whether they are following a local farmer,
wares and locally made food are also incorporated into
hunting for bamboo shoots, or picking tea leaves for local
the overall experience, all in the hope of developing our
tea makers, we hope to show our client a China they've
local economy.”
never seen before.”
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Foodie Foray
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Foodie Foray
Flavours Of Land & Sea From delectable seafood to prized truffles from medieval forests, nature has dealt Istria a bountiful hand, discovers
He Peiwen.
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Foodie Foray
I
t is known as the black diamond, the pride
The exceptional white truffle is in season between
and joy of Istria. A precious gourmet gem
September and January, while different varieties of
found in the dark, fairytale forests of Motovun
black truffle can be enjoyed throughout the year. If
and Buzet, the truffle is impossible to miss
you somehow managed to not partake in a truffle
when you’re on the peninsula. Whether it’s
foodgasm during your time there, you can also bring
in a country inn or Michelin-starred restaurant,
them home in the form of oil, butter and sauces or
you’re going to find truffles in Istria – they’re on
preserved in salty water or olive oil.
your handmade pasta, served alongside your steak, dished out with fish or prawns, generously used in
When it comes to Istrian olive oil, we’re talking about
scrambled eggs, or even gracing desserts like ice
some of the best in the world. Olive groves are part
cream or chocolate cake.
of the hinterland’s fetching landscape and nestled
amid the rolling hills are small, independent family
Truffles have increasingly become a drawcard for the
farms such as Ipša that are superstar producers
diamond-shaped peninsula which juts into the azure
on the olive oil world stage. A tour of the Olive Oil
Adriatic. However, unlike in the premium truffle
Roads in north-western Istria will take you to lush
destinations of Italy, here in Croatia, truffles come
olive groves and cool cellars where these incredible
sans the snobbery – they are just another excellent
oils are made. A word of caution though: it will be
ingredient in a destination packed with fresh,
impossible to buy olive oil off a supermarket shelf
inspiring produce. Even so, Istria is fast becoming
after that experience.
a truffle destination in its own right – for decades Istrian truffles have been sold in Italy as Alba truffles
To feast the Istrian way is to dig into mouthwatering
but today local producers are taking pride in their
dishes at a local tavern. Wash down Istrian
own coveted finds, and are serving truffles, as well
prosciutto or traditionally dry-cured ham, succulent
as world-class seafood and timeless comfort dishes
sausages seasoned with homemade wine, as well
to intrepid foodie travellers.
as cold pancetta pork rounds with local wines like
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Foodie Foray the ubiquitous Malvasia white or Teran, a red that is not going to win awards except in the character department. Then, dig into tasty staples like freshly handmade gnocchi served with meat stew, tubular pasta called fuži that is indigenous to Istria and ombolo pork cutlets typically served with tangy sauerkraut. In spring, look out for the reed-thin wild asparagus, which has an aromatic flavour and a hint of bitterness. Also unique to Istria is the boskarin, a white or grey long-horned cattle that produces meat best relished as carpaccio, steak or with fuži pasta. Hearty meat-based fare is the way of life in Central Europe. Towards the coast, however, you’ll find that the Istrian peninsula is just as incredible for its seafood. Always start with a platter of tiny Adriatic squid if you can. Grilled or deep-fried and drizzled with a small amount of lemon, you will find in each mouthful of these creatures the delicate flavour of the sea. Then there are the scallops of Novigrad, which are revered for their sweetness, a result of them growing in a mixed body of salty sea water and fresh river water. These are scallops worth enjoying raw. To fully appreciate the catch of the day, ask for crabs, mussels and scampi to be prepared buzarastyle. This ancient method uses just olive oil, garlic, parsley and wine to preserve freshness and the original flavours of the seafood. In Istria, eating is a humbling experience. To taste what is on offer is to be reminded of nature’s exuberance and how we benefit from its abundance.
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New Zealand
The Road to Rural Bliss Nick Walton encounters five very
different takes on the New Zealand lodge during a luxury road trip of the North Island.
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New Zealand
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New Zealand
G
Treetops Lodge &
its diverse game and stunning setting, it’s also become a
luxury lodges, takes some serious faith in
Chilean chef; access to world-class produce, including
one’s GPS. After a three-hour drive from
estate venison, quail, rabbit, wild pig and trout; and a
Auckland, I follow the purple line on the
series of unique foodie adventures that range from Estate-
etting to
Estate, one of New Zealand’s original
screen intently as the route descends deeper and deeper
culinary destination in its own right, with an innovative
to-Plate safaris to Maori Food Trails.
into rural bliss, leaving the highway for a gravel track that bobs and weaves between undulating hills. Eventually, just
I’m no hunter I confess, but that doesn’t stop me on my
when I think I’ve come the wrong way, I’m greeted by a sign
first night at the lodge, from enjoying the sika (one of six
and a tree-lined laneway that beckons me just a little further.
deer species on the estate) loins with raspberries and indigenous kawakawa, a basil-like herb foraged from the
This is the experience many visitors to New Zealand are
forest, served by Chef Philippe and matched with Hawkes
looking for; to be removed from the rat race, to a place that’s
Bay wines by Dutch manager Pieter on my first night.
as serene as it is bucolic; remote, but without sacrificing the creature comforts. Located on its own expansive working
Accommodation at Treetops is rustic yet inviting. A
farm outside Rotorua, in the centre of New Zealand’s North
pioneer of environmentally-managed design, the lodge
Island, Treetops Lodge & Estate ticks all those boxes and
offers a variety of accommodation styles, including the
more. It’s also the first stop on my New Zealand road trip
recently-added Lodge Wing, a four-room enclave housed
as I sample four leading New Zealand lodges, each distinct
in the main lodge building that’s ideally suited for families
from the next.
and friends travelling together; and a clutch of secluded cottage-style villas that each boast two suites. My suite
Treetops is the story of the traditional New Zealand lodge;
boasts custom furniture; fireplaces that keep the evening
created by passionate naturalist John Sax, and built initially
chill at bay; a king-sized bed dressed in high thread count
as a big stag hunting lodge, today many Treetops guests
linens; a voluminous bathroom with jacuzzi bath; and
would rather pick up a knife and fork than a rifle. While the
dramatic native forest views. If you listen carefully, you’ll
property still seduces hunters from across the globe with
hear the roar of resident red stags as dawn breaks.
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New Zealand
From Treetops it’s an easy hour’s drive south through
refined, modern space features a full kitchen, lavish
mist-wreathed farmland to the banks of Lake Taupo, New
furnishings, and a patio overlooking an inviting par
Zealand’s largest. I trace my way around the lake, world-
three.
renowned for its trout fishing, until I reach the sleepy settlement of Kinloch and one of the country’s newest lodge sensations, The
Lodge at Kinloch.
I emerge from these comfy confines, first to tackle the golf course, which follows the sometimes-challenging terrain of a former sheep farm, before joining other
Another creation of John Sax, The Lodge at Kinloch marries
guests for cocktail hour in the main lodge’s Great
luxury accommodation and sublime dining with a coveted
Room, where manager Ken McTague offers aperitifs
new golf course by Jack Nicklaus. Modern, imposing and
beside a roaring fireplace.
ambitious, The Kinloch Club straddles a low range of mountains and offers a contemporary take on the New
The luxurious, eclectic and tactile interiors of lodge
Zealand lodge experience for golfers and non-golfers like.
guru Virginia Fisher are unmistakable here, and include
New arrivals weave their way through manicured fairways as they ascend to the main lodge building; built from local schist stone and inspired by Kinloch Castle in Scotland (albeit with a very contemporary take on that timeless icon) the lodge was designed by New Zealand architect Andrew Patterson and boasts sun-kissed internal courtyards, elegantly-appointed lounges and dining rooms, and panoramic lake and links views. I’m able to drive my hire car right to the door of my onebedroom villa, which, dressed in polished oak floors, handmade rugs, Egyptian linens and floor-to-ceiling French doors, has a distinctly residential feel about it. The
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New Zealand
to the ranks of security cameras which guard the entrance. Understated and yet determinably luxurious,
Helena Bay, which opened in late 2016 after
eight years of development and with a price tag of US$35 million, is the creation of a media-shy Russian steel billionaire, who selected the lodge’s namesake bay as his own little slice of kiwi heaven. Located on three kilometres of pristine coastline, complete with private beaches, forested walking paths, and its own 215-hectare working farm, Helena Bay accommodates a maximum of ten guests at a time, making it the latest in a series of new properties that cater to travellers looking to book out entire estates. Each of the lodge’s ocean-facing suites plush banquettes, cowhide, goat skins and burnt wood
feature double-height ceilings, cavernous, mosaic-
floorings. Beyond, the dining room is an airy, elegant
lined bathrooms, Christian Fischbacher robes, Hefel
space dedicated, where possible, to organic estate-to-
of Austria linens, and private patios. The main lodge
plate cuisine prepared by executive chef Jean-Michel
building wreaths a 25-metre infinity pool, and boasts
that ranges from grilled Karitani crayfish with Beluga
a gym and intimate spa, lounges and libraries, and
lentils and star anise jus; to wild venison dusted in
an extensive modern art collection.
endemic harore and horopito. As the only guest in residence I get the star From the mirror-like waters of Taupo I fly north to
treatment. Happy hour starts when a young kiwi
Whangarei, gateway to one of New Zealand’s most
waitress, who has returned home from working
spectacular regions, Northland, to continue my road
aboard superyachts to take up a role at the lodge,
trip. Again, I’m forced to rely on my GPS as I leave the
arrives, resplendent in a tuxedo, and presents a
highway in my wake and descend the narrow, winding
perfectly made martini before inviting me to dine in
Russell Road east, towards the Pacific. So elusive is New
an intimate book-lined snug, complete with roaring
Zealand’s newest ‘super lodge’ that I drive straight past
fire. Service is refined but also intuitive – I can’t see
its gates before backtracking and announcing myself
staff until
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New Zealand
I need them, which gives Helena Bay the residential feel its owner envisioned. Of course, there’s plenty to keep you occupied between lavish meals, from farm tours with estate manager John and his trusty blue heeler, to helicopter flights, kayaking, beach picnics at the newly-opened private pavilion, and diving on the acclaimed Poor Knights Islands. There’s also a tennis court, secluded beaches on which to wander, and orchards and gardens to tour with executive chef Michele Martino, who has brought the Michelin-starred cuisine of chef Ernesto Iaccarino’s acclaimed southern Italy restaurant Don Alfonso 1890 to New Zealand. From Helena Bay I place my faith in Lady GPS once again and forge north, for one of my personal favourite lodges in the country,
Kauri Cliffs.
One of three lodges created by Tiger Fund
founder Julian Robertson (the other two being Hawke’s Bay’s Cape Kidnappers and Queenstown’s Matakauri), Kauri Cliffs, his first, redefined New Zealand’s lodge scene; wreathing a golf course by David Harman that’s listed #39 in the world and which hugs dramatic sea cliffs, the lodge crowns a 6,500-acre working sheep station in the Bay of Islands, certainly one of New Zealand’s most breathtakingly beautiful locales. Despite being almost two decades old, the lodge at Kauri Cliffs seems timeless and infinitely graceful. Arriving guests are greeted by captivating sea views as they wind their way across the estate MAY- JUNE 2019 ISSUE
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New Zealand to reach The Lodge which features just 22 guest suites, each of which boasts sublime interiors my Virginia Fisher, spacious bathrooms, and east-facing balconies, and which is in turn sequestered in native forest. I managed to hit the links as the sun begins to descend towards the Pacific, pausing on the 15th hole to soak in the panorama of rural bliss, infinite ocean, crashing waves and manicured greens. The colours of this spectacular landscape burst to life as day comes to an end, and I greet the inky night over predinner drinks on the lodge’s deep-set terrace. Unlike some of the lodges, Kauri Cliffs maintains a sense of formality (so don’t forget a sports coat) which pairs perfectly with crisp, intelligent service from a United Nations staff, and the delectable cuisine of executive chef Barry Frith, which champions food miles and local producers. For those post-round aches, Kauri Cliffs is also home to an intimate spa nestled on the cusp of an ancient Totara forest that features four treatment rooms and a range of bespoke rituals. Alternatively, take to the skies for an exhilarating coastal helicopter flight (many guests also combine a tour with helicopter transfers from Whangarei or Auckland) or a picnic at the estate’s best kept secret, Pink Beach, a heavenly strip of white sand under a canopy of red flowering pohutukawa trees. For the last stop on my luxury road trip of New Zealand’s North Island I scoot south to Whangarei Heads, another corner of the region that’s rarely visited by tourist throngs. My route left cosmopolitan Whangarei behind and traces its way around the city’s harbour before climbing over the towering headlands that shelter the port from the Pacific Ocean.
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New Zealand The Glasshouse is the newest addition to the Ara Roa Accommodation family and offers one lucky couple about as much privacy as they could hope for. Located at the tip of a privately-owned peninsula,
The
Glasshouse
features
staggering ocean views, a glass-encased living area and master bedroom, an expansive sun deck with wood burning fireplace, a covered al fresco dining area, and one of the most breathtaking bathrooms, I’ve seen (if you don’t mind the occasional walk in the dark when nature calls), secluded at the end of a garden trail, complete with a shower that opens to the elements. The Glasshouse is more than just a respite – there’s everything you need to enjoy your stay, from a fullyequipped kitchen and chef on call, to an internetconnected sound system, lavish furnishings, and high speed Wi-Fi. Fly in by helicopter or park your hire car at the front door, and disappear from the face of the earth, if only for a day or two. Of course, there is also plenty for the active to do, from fishing, hiking and swimming from the estate’s own pier, to exploring some of Northland’s most spectacular beaches. The Glasshouse can be booked as a standalone or matched with the peninsula’s modern three-bedroom Te Whara house when travelling as a group. Cathay Pacific connects New Zealand with Asia using its state-of-the-art Airbus A350 aircraft. www.cathaypacific.com Treetops Lodge & Estate, from US$1,390 per night, twin share; www. treetops.co.nz The Lodge at Kinloch, from US$820 per night, twin share; www.thekinlochclub.com Kauri Cliffs, from US$1,086 per night, twin share; https://www.robertsonlodges.com/ the-lodges/kauri-cliffs Helena Bay, from US$2,090 per night, twin share; https://helenabay.com The Glasshouse, from US$670 per night, twin share; http://araroa.nz
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Travel Essentials
When Size Matters Save weight and maintain performance with the pint-sized RX0 II action camera from Sony.
T
here’s small, and then there’s
lens has a shortened minimum focusing distance
the RX0 II, Sony’s newest premium
of 20cm, making it perfect for selfies or table-top
ultra-compact camera, and the
photos.
world’s smallest and lightest. The new RX0 II offers internal
Made for shooters who don’t want to fuss around
4K recording, an up to 180-degree and down
with expensive and fragile camera systems, Sony
to 90-degree tiltable LCD screen that works
says the RX0 II is ‘worry-free’. Measuring just
underwater, and new image stabilisation solutions
59mm x 40.5mm x 35mm and weighing just 132g,
meaning you can shoot on the run.
the RX0 II is pocket friendly, inconspicuous and perfect for documenting life’s little adventures.
The newest addition to Sony’s highly popular
Expect high-quality 4k video with reduced moiré
compact camera line-up, the RX0 is waterproof,
and jaggies that can easily be sent to social media
dustproof, shockproof, and crushproof. At the
channels thanks to the Sony Imaging Edge mobile
heart of the tiny camera is a 1.0-type stacked
app. You can also film in slow motion at 1,000fps,
15.3-megapixel Exmor RS CMOS image sensor
while up to 5 RX0 II cameras can be controlled
and an advanced BIONZ X image processing
wirelessly using the Sony app.
engine that offer enhanced colour reproduction, including beautiful skin tones. This power packed
You’ll also get great stills thanks to an upgraded
combination has been optimised to deliver
Eye AF system, an anti-distortion shutter with a
lightning fast performance and exquisite image
speed of up to 1/32,000 sec. and a burst rate of up
quality for both stills and movie shooting across a
to 16 fps, while the optional ‘Soft Skin Effect’ can
wide sensitivity range of ISO 80-12800. In addition,
be applied to cover minor blemishes and wrinkles
the ZEISS Tessar T* 24mm F4.0 fixed wide-angle
when taking portraits of selfies.
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Travel Essentials
The new Transporter Carry-Ons from Osprey are a traveller’s dream come true.
O
sprey Packs, a leader in creating top-quality, high-performance packs to comfortably and efficiently carry gear, expands Transporter, its successful series of rugged, TPU double-coated nylon duffels with the
introduction of carry-on sized bags and wheeled luggage built to withstand the rigors of travel and inclement weather.
The durable Transporter Carry-On backpack can be divided into 1/3 and 2/3 pockets thanks to a main zip, allowing the backpack to open fully flat for easy packing. External zip access makes reaching essentials a breeze, while a rear panel offers access to a padded laptop sleeve that caters to computers up to 17-innches in size. There’s also two zippered mesh interior pockets for easy organization; a front panel organizer pocket with plenty of room for items like magazines, pens and passports; and both a pass-through sleeve on back panel that allows the bag to slip over wheeled luggage handles, and an over the shoulder carry strap as well as a deployable backpack harness on the 44L Carry-on. A wheeled version features a light and durable high-clearance Osprey HighRoad LT chassis; an easy to pack side-opening main compartment; a zippered pocket on the back panel for ID card and extra storage space for magazines or shoes; compression panels in the main compartment for easy packing; and A hidden RFID security pocket sized for wallet/passport inside laptop sleeve. MAY- JUNE 2019 ISSUE
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Travel Essentials
Shades of Sound How about stylish sunglasses that also allow you to bring your favourite tunes on your adventures?
S
ound specialists Bose’s ground-breaking Frames, which combine the protection and style of premium sunglasses with the functionality and performance of wireless headphones, is the perfect travel essential for adventurers on the move. Frames take micro-acoustics
and voice control to an entirely new level, debuting the future of mobile sound in the tiniest, thinnest, most lightweight Bose system ever. With a proprietary open-ear design, Frames can stream music and information, take and make calls, and access virtual assistants — while keeping playlists, entertainment, and conversations private. Bose Frames come in two timeless styles — square and angled, or round and slightly smaller. Both block up to 99% of UVA/UVB rays and feature uniformly tinted lenses and distinct accents — including gold-plated steel hinges and charging pins. They’re scratch and shatter resistant and weigh a mere 45 grams — standard for the category. Each element is smooth, modern, and minimal. And they are shaped, fit, and feel like the world’s most iconic eyewear.
But these are no ordinary sunglasses. Bose Frames function like truly wireless headphones — with engineering that crushes the limitations of size-to-performance for personal listening. A miniscule, wafer-thin acoustic package is set seamlessly in each arm’s interior — rather than an earbud, or attached component — to produce discreet, jawdropping sound for the user, and no one else. For touch and voice control, an ultra-small microphone and multi-function button are embedded on the right temple for power and pairing, Siri and Google Assistant, calls and commands, or to pause and skip songs. The Bose Connect app provides additional features now, and software updates for new features in the future — like Bose AR.
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