Pilgrim Ways

off in a northward direction for York. Fiercely Yorkist and Catholic the city was not to the Protestant Leland‟s tastes.

The largest of its religious houses was the Benedictine Abbey of St.Mary‟s which William Rufus had founded. Nearby was St.Leonard‟s Hospital; Austin Friars were by the River Ouse; Whitefriars close to Layerthorpe Gate; Greyfriars close to the castle; Gilbertines at St.Andrew‟s priory, outside Fisher Gate; and the Priory of the Holy Trinity by Mickle Gate.

Leland spent a month here, travelling out to monasteries and nunneries at Beverley, Kingston-upon-Hull, Scarborough, Whitby and Pickering.

Apart from visiting the magnificent York Minster, today‟s pilgrim will wish to spend some time at the Bar Convent where there is an exhibition of Catholic history. York is also home to a monastery of Poor Clares, women who spend their lives in poverty and prayer. The present foundation was enlarged four years ago when the Poor Clares closed their monastery in Liverpool and some of the nuns moved here. The community is made up of some remarkable women who are always extremely welcoming. To the north of York is Ampleforth Abbey, continuing the Benedictine tradition in these parts, especially through its provision of Catholic education. Its former abbot was Cardinal Basil Hume.

York Minster The dominance of York as a regional centre originates in the third century when Constantine was proclaimed Emperor at York. There was a Christian community in the city at that time and when Paulinus baptised King Edwin in 627 it led to the construction of the first church in the city. Paulinus became the first bishop and was followed by Chad in 664 and Wilfrid in 669. It was York which subsequently produced Alcuin, commissioned by Charlemagne to organise education throughout his European empire.

In 1075, Archbishop Thomas began the building of a Romanesque church and it was given the name Minster, the Saxon word for monastery. However, it was always served by a secular clergy, many of whom were more than ready to stand up to temporal leaders. William Fitzherbert, bishop in the twelfth century was deposed by a hostile king but received his reward in heaven - being canonised by the Pope as Saint William of York. In the thirteenth century Archbishop Walter de Gray began the extensive rebuilding of the Minster - a project which stretched over the next 250 years. His tomb lies in the south transept.

If, like Thomas Leland, modern travellers take York as a base, they can strike out to see some of the finest remains of Britain‟s monastic tradition.

Whitby, Rievaulx, Mount Grace, and Fountains.

Heading east to Whitby, the town‟s abbey stands as “the beacon on the hill.” Standing on a cliff high above the town this is what remains of the double monastery for men and women created by St.Hilda in 657. From Anglo-Saxon stock Hilda was taught by Paulinus and in 664 Whitby was the dramatic setting for the Synod which settled the Celtic and Roman disputes and Celtic and Roman traditions determined the future shape of Britain‟s ecclesiastical government. These themes are captured sensitively and accurately by Melvin Bragg in his historical novel, Credo.