Pilgrim Ways

Henry‟s principal agent in decimating the old religion was his minister, Thomas Cromwell.

The topographer and King‟s Antiquary, Thomas Leland, acted as chronicler of these tempestuous events. From 1534 until 1542 he traversed the length and breadth of England and Wales, detailing the final days of the Middle ages as he made his “laborious journey.”

The modern pilgrim can take Leland‟s survey and follow in his footsteps, pondering the way of life which was eradicated. Even as he journeyed, events would overtake him.

Following In The Footsteps of Thomas Leland Leland began his first great journey in Cambridge, where he noted the magnificent Carmelite Friary, the half-circle of monasteries on the far side of the town, and the new colleges which had taken over old monasteries. Crowland Abbey was the most northerly of the monasteries and was Benedictine. It had its own theological college (now Magdalene College). Jesus College had been the Benedictine Priory of St.Ragmund until 1496 and south of it stood the Franciscan priory. Blackfriars stood on the site of Emmanuel College (the Dominicans‟ theological college).

After completing his survey of monastic holdings in Cambridge, Leland rode on to the Benedictine priory of St.Neots before crossing the River Ouse. His next objective was Northampton, where there was a circle of monasteries and friaries: Greyfriars “the best built and largest house of all the friars, a little beyond the main market place”; Blackfriars, northeast of Northampton Castle; the Austin friars “hard against St.John‟s Hospital”; and over the river was a Cluniac foundation, Delapre Abbey.

Next, at Leicester, he noted Greyfrairs, within the town‟s walls, and outside it the Austin friars (Leicester Abbey)and the Dominicans. Today‟s pilgrim, following the meanderings of Thomas Leland, should pause at St.Mary de Castro church - the jewel of Leicester‟s churches. It stands within the Royal castle of Leicester and was founded in 1107. It had a Dean and Canons until the Reformation and survived because it had been adapted as a parish church. Prince Charles, the prince of Wales, recently visited the church and described it as “a special place which is so clearly loved by those who worship in it. It deserves to be conserved and preserved for future generations to enjoy and treasure.” Sadly, Henry VIII‟s survey undertaken by Thomas Leland had no such intentions of conservation in mind.

Leland left Leicester to ride east to Launde Priory, Leicester Abbey‟s daughter house and from here to Stamford - where he found an abundance of religious houses: Browne‟s Hospital; the Carmelites at Whitefriars Priory on the Spalding Road, the Benedictines at St.Leonards‟s Priory and several other foundations.

Yorkshire and Its Great Monastic Houses Riding north to Grimsthorpe Castle, Leland recorded the dilapidated Vaudley Abbey before arriving at Lincoln. Here, he noted Whitefrairs Priory, on his left, and the Guild of St.Mary, on his right, as he entered the city and stopped at the Cathedral.

After riding on through the rain to Torskey Abbey, Leland forded the River Trent at Gainsborough and headed for Doncaster. He described the Whitefriars‟ priory as “a right goodly house” in the centre of the town, while the Greyfriars were to be found at the north end of the bridge. Travelling west to Wakefield he noted St.Oswald‟s Abbey, before setting