Long admired for distinguished menswear and delectable cuts, Pal Zileri has forged an aesthetic synonomis with good style and masculine charm. Felwa Al Hudaithy interviews Mauro Ravizza Kreiger the current Creative Director for the brand. Pal Zileri is known for its contemporary sensibilities, proportions and techniques that are executed by the best Italian craftsmen, updating the brand’s DNA is not an easy job; yet you have introduced an avant-garde approach to a classic brand so organically, how did you excel in doing so? You are right, through the Avant-Garde approach we are transforming the DNA of the company and moving it to an international vision and to a new consumer that has a common attitude worldwide. There is not a secret formula to do so. I think it is a matter of always enhancing what you have and appreciating what has been making the brand great so far. For example, in our case we take a lot of inspiration from our cultural roots and from the company heritage. We are upgrading the past, not denying it. Does the suit make the man, or is it the man that makes the suit? It is the man that makes the suit, no doubt about it. The suit can be a positive tool to express his mood and his character but also a strong weapon for instance to highlight the hierarchy, the kind of person you are or you would like to appear as. Middle Eastern men have a tendency to over-indulge, especially in clothing, have you encountered any who have broken the mould? Despite the general stereotype I had the chance to work with some who are definitely out of the scheme. I guess we will see in the future if he is single case or the first of a larger group. When you design a new collection, do you bear in mind that the stereotypes of the ‘Mad Men’ era of men have long gone, and today men want the accessible ‘instant’ way of life? Or do you only sell the dream of wearing tailored clothes every day of the year? We put the costumer at the center, so when I design a new collection I have the modern, globally-connected man in mind. But on the other side I think that this man is so involved in his daily routine that sometimes we have to remind him that he still has the time and the occasion to wear a tailored suit every now and then. Do you have any personal principles when dressing up? Keeping it simple and minimal, play with different fabrics accessories - this is the best formula. You travel a lot. If you had the choice to live in one country for the rest of your days, which one would you choose and why? I don’t even want to think about it! I like my life as it is and travelling and researching is a fundamental part of it. But I have to admit that I am quite lucky having Italy as my HQ. What morning routines are religious for you? Alarm clock, work out, breakfast (which I always have at home made by myself) and newspaper.
What do you collect and why? Photography and art books. I have always been interested in collecting them and later on, with my work, they’ve became not just a hobby but also a source of inspiration. What’s your detox? A long Summer holiday to rest in the middle of nowhere and recharge my mind. Holidays are the only time you can think freely, gather your ideas and start again. I know it could seem a paradox but holidays have always been the times I have come up with my most creative work! What are you currently reading? What book is a staple on your nightstand? At the moment I’m reading “Il giardino dei Finzi-Contini” di Giorgio Bassani, a classic of Italian literature. In general, as I was telling you before, on my nightstand there is at least one art book. Image is everything. If you don’t educate yourself and evolve you’ll find yourself out of date. What do you do to keep your eyes ‘fresh’? I travel a lot. I research and keep my mind in motion visiting art galleries all over the world. It is always surprising how you can discover new artists and works you were not aware of hidden in small art galleries. What does luxury mean to you? In fashion world luxury is quality, detail, something rare and, why not, happiness. Personally, I think the biggest luxury is loving your job. Loving what you do and being recognised for it, which at the end of the day, in our age, is still something that has the features of being rare and making one happy. What’s the best advice you’ve received that has kept you going and growing? Always look forward, never stop. And it’s definitely a suggestion that I adopt every day of my life.