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WELCOME LETTER
Am I a country girl or a city slicker? It may sound trite, but I admit to having given this quite a bit of thought. I was born in Kyogle, NSW, and grew up in different towns around NSW as my father was a bank manager with what was then the Rural Bank, later the State Bank of New South Wales, and we moved every two years. But we never owned a farm, never grew sugarcane or reared Merino sheep like some of my school and university friends, so am I really ‘country’? During my first year at UNE in Armidale I was told by a friend whose family owned a cattle station that I was a “coastie”, which was probably accurate having spent most of my time up until that point on the Far North Coast of NSW. Stints in London and Singapore, and 15 years (and counting) in Sydney followed. So in the city vs. country debate, who am I? My conclusion, which I’ve only come to recently, is that it doesn’t matter. Country, city or coastie, what does matter is that we all come together in a time of crisis and upheaval. This year and late 2019 have been far from easy — we’ve faced drought, catastrophic bushfires, flooding and the pandemic, but everyone across Australia came together to help each other out. And that includes some contributors to this magazine. Photographer Marnie Hawson is raising money for wildlife organisations caring for animals injured in the bushfires. See the prints she is selling, with all profits going to charity, on page 18. One thing that always brings us together — “when we celebrate and commiserate” as the fifth-generation winemaker Andrew Hardy says on page 12 — is food and wine. Whether it’s enjoying a Sunday roast with your family or making a cake to drop off to a neighbour and having a cuppa together. That is why we have packed this issue with recipes and stories from regional producers, many of whom have had to adapt in these tough times, selling direct to customers and delivering their wares, too. See page 100 for a listing of some of our favourites and throw your support behind them by buying from the bush. Keep an eye out for more in your area.
BACKGROUND PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHEN
Kylie Imeson
CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE RIGHT Kylie and her brother, Lee, on the beach at Brunswick Heads, NSW, in 1980; family friend Katie Mitchell showing a five-year-old Kylie a piglet at her farm at Edenville near Kyogle, NSW; at age four enjoying a picnic in the paddock behind their house with her mother, Dianne, and Lee in Henty, NSW.
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CONTRIBUTORS
in this i s s u e . . . O L I V I A B L A C K M O R E
HOMEWARES OUT NOW
Meet the talented food stylist who has the enviable job of styling Steve Cumper’s delicious recipes for our Country Cook feature each issue (see page 98).
Olivia grew up in Sydney’s Little Manly and completed a Bachelor of Visual Arts, majoring in sculpture, and an Advanced Diploma of Fashion Design. Styling was a natural progression, as it combines her feel for design with her appreciation of textures. “I love that my job brings unique challenges and allows me to be creative. Every. Single. Day,” she explains. “I’m getting paid for something I truly love to do.” When she’s not working, Olivia and her partner head to the NSW Southern Highlands to recharge. “I like the silence, the smell of burning wood and the slowness of it all. I love to hunt for edible herbs, berries and fruit,” she says. The region’s antique shops are also a drawcard. “I often map out our journey to visit every single one!”
C H R I S T O P H E R M O R R I S O N
PHOTOGRAPHY NIC GOSSAGE
This Adelaide-based photographer shared a day and a small tipple with fifth-generation winemaker Andrew Hardy for our story on page 12.
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Photography often means waiting for the right conditions or moment to shoot, but Christopher says there was an upside this time. “Andrew, being the gentleman he is, cracked a bottle while we waited for some light. It was amazing, having a sip while literally seeing the process happening in front of me.” Specialising in wedding, architecture and commercial photography, Christopher has done his first shoot for Country Style, bringing back happy childhood memories of the holidays he spent at a family friend’s home at Lucindale in South Australia’s south-east. “My brother and I would live the farm life,” he recalls. “Getting up at 4am to feed the sheep, riding dirt bikes after lunch and a large bonfire in a paddock at night, started with enough diesel to power a truck cross-country!”
WORDS TRACEY PLATT PHOTOGRAPHY CHRISTOPHER MORRISON, RANDY LARCOMBE PHOTOGRAPHY, ROB SHAW
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YOUR PAGE
We visited Katie Robke’s little red farmhouse on the Sunshine Coast in our April issue. Here, @mumma_robke’s children are forever running wild — and this pleases her no end. Growing up on a ginger farm 15 kilometres outside Pomona in Queensland, gives Asher, six, Koda, four, and three-year-old Luna plenty of space to dig holes, play superheroes and screech about. Photography @kararosenlund
We couldn’t resist putting this image of the sweet cubbyhouse that belongs to seven-year-old identical twins, Elisabeth and Maggie Wiltshire, on our May cover. The sisters live with their parents, Rob and Marian, on @thehutflowerfarm in Oyster Cove Tasmania where we visited them and stopped and smelled the roses — we all need to from time to time! Photography @marniehawson Styling @_michellecrawford
YOUR PAGE
AS WE CELEBRATED MOTHER’S DAY, MAGGIE MACKELLAR’S PIECE ON MOTHERHOOD RESONATED WITH MANY OF YOU, WHILE OTHERS TREATED THEMSELVES TO SOMETHING THEY LOVE.
HOPE GROWS
PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK
Today,I’m calling it: the drought is over. For us anyway. I am mindful that the awful dry remains for some, and we are all many months from any income, but I recently made my first ‘non-essential’ purchase in almost three years: a subscription to Country Style. About 18 months ago, during my lunch hour, feeling sad and fed up with the relentless dry, I happened across an old copy Country Style and found myself spellbound with Meaghan Willis’ garden (July 2018). After that find, any spare time not at work or feeding stock was spent daydreaming and planning on how to recreate something similar when the drought was finally over. Simply, it gave me hope when all around us were shades of brown and tan or the vast deep grey of the bare black soil plains. Joanne Hamilton, Gurley, NSW
isolation. We must come back looking more towards our own producers, and less over the seas. It is time to celebrate and nurture our own skills, talents and raw materials, let these become our prized possessions and exercise a better form of sustainability, rather than cheap consumerism. Learn from the past but make it better for the future. Our world is turning for the better — I can’t wait for the changes! Tania Serovski, Yagoona, NSW
WINNER
NEW ARRIVAL As I sit in the cool darkness of my son’s newly purchased home awaiting news of the arrival of my first grandson, I read Maggie MacKellar’s stirring piece on motherhood — a beautiful reflection on the all encompassing role of a mother. There’s no instruction manual with these little souls when they arrive, and
CHANGE IS COMING
we have such a rosy view of the new world we’re about to enter, unaware of the beautiful chaos about to envelop us. It is a crazy mix of joy, fear, laughter, tears, tradition, and the unknown, each day presenting a new challenge. The days and years melting away in a blur of birthday parties, school days, holidays, graduations and eventually departures. The feeling of loss that comes with an empty nest coming as a complete surprise. We do the best we know how, vowing to do it differently from our parents. Yet you look back and realise that we didn’t step so far from the mould. Thanks Maggie for this heartwarming read, it touched my heart and bought back a flood of beautiful memories. Then came news of little Archie, who entered the world just before midnight, filling our hearts with joy. Lynelle Elliott, Woy Woy, NSW
Congratulations to Lynelle Elliot
Time has moved so fast, reading the Your Page letters about drought, fire and then floods, we thought we had seen the worst. And yet we Aussies continue to stand strong and defiant in face of adversity, to do the right thing for all in our nation. I can’t wait for the day we open back up for business, so we can support our local industries, support the fire and drought ravaged, and those thrown to the ground by
who has won a $500 box of meat from Milly Hill Meat delivered to her door. Milly Hill is a family-owned lamb producer in Armidale, NSW. For more information, telephone (02) 6772 0300 or visit millyhill.com.au Share your thoughts and experiences with us by writing to Country Style, PO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW, 1028, or emailing austcountrystyle@bauer-media. com.au Please include your address and daytime telephone number. Letters may be edited for reasons of space and clarity.
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COVER STORIES
Raise a glass: A historic family winery resurrected What love built: A modern farmhouse in Boorowa Beautiful country kitchens Cakes to bake
62 TIMES PAST
PEOPLE
70 BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY KITCHENS
12 HALLOWED GROUND 22
Meet fifth-generation winemaker Andrew Hardy who has breathed new life into his family’s historic winery. DISTANCE LEARNING Regular Country Style photographer Abbie Melle on the simple joys she rediscovered in isolation.
MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD
27 For our food and wine issue, we find out how some
Australian culinary heroes first earnt their stripes in the kitchen and how that led to a lifelong passion.
HOMES
32 BACK TO THE BEGINNING
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GARDEN
A peaceful retreat with sweeping views of Tasmania’s Freycinet Peninsula and Great Oyster Bay transports the owners back to memories of their childhoods. NEW LEASE ON LIFE How a couple turned a rundown building with an 1860s stone cottage within located in a Victorian goldfields town into a warm home that pays homage to its history. LOVE BUILDS This house on the south-west slopes of NSW has the owners’ touch at every turn and remains as tangible evidence of their love for each other and their home.
Growing around a repurposed church in Orange, NSW, is a garden that exudes old-world charm.
DECORATING
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Be inspired by these stunning kitchens and learn how to recreate their warmth at your place. BY THE FIRE Feeling the chill as winter begins to hit in earnest? Our guide takes you through some of the different heating options along with their pros and cons.
FOOD
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Owners of the award-winning Glenarty Road winery restaurant share how they used the lockdown period as an opportunity to create a more sustainable menu. TEA AND COMPANY Now that three’s no longer a crowd, invite your friends over and spoil them with one of these sweet treats. HEIRLOOM: SMART COOKIE A daughter recalls how her mother could do almost anything, including make divine Afghan biscuits. BRING THE BEET BACK Chef Steve Cumper extols the virtues of this vegan and dairy-free cake that pairs beetroot with chocolate. FLAVOURS We track down the regional producers who adapted to the lockdown and began delivering farm boxes, plus a book that encourages sustainable meat eating.
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PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON, ABBIE MELLE, BRETT STEVENS STYLING STEVE PEARCE
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HARVEST TABLE COMPETITION CHILD’S PLAY Market gardener Lizzie Buscaino says growing their own vegies is just a normal part of life for her children. WINTER’S BOUNTY Enter our Harvest Table competition, in association with Fisher & Paykel, for a chance to win great prizes.
FASHION AND HEALTH
THE STYLE DIARY Jewellery maker Emily Burton shares her classic look. TRES BELLE How to achieve a French chic look from top to toe.
EDUCATION
THE SCHOOL RUN Choosing a school for your children is an important decision. We profile top boarding and regional schools.
PRIVACY NOTICE This issue of Country Style magazine is published by Bauer Media Pty Ltd (Bauer). Bauer may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Bauer publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at bauer-media.com.au/privacy. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Bauer may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Bauer in the conduct of the Reader Offer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Bauer’s Privacy Officer either by email at privacyofficer@bauer-media.com.au or mail at Privacy Officer Bauer Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park Street, Sydney NSW 2000.
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REGULAR READING
Contributors Your page: Readers’ emails and letters Maggie MacKellar: A Day in the Country A Month in the Country: Marnie Hawson on her fundraising campaign to help Australian wildlife. Regional Shopping Guide: Support the bush communities that have been doing it tough. Books Collectables Country Squire
SERVICES
128 SUBSCRIBE TO COUNTRY STYLE AND RECEIVE 131 132 140
A BONUS RAINE & HUMBLE THROW Field Guide Country Emporium Country and Coastal Retreats
OUR COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Marnie Hawson STYLING Belle Hemming and Lynda Gardener
ESCAPE THE EVERYDAY
WHAT LOVE BUILT
A MODERN FARMHOUSE IN BOOROWA
GATHER TOGETHER • BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY KITCHENS • CAKES TO BAKE RAISE A GLASS A HISTORIC FAMILY WINERY RESURRECTED
ON THE COVER Seven-year-old miniature pinscher Dexter waits patiently for the guests to arrive. Our food and wine issue is about bringing friends and family together to enjoy a bite, a tipple and a good old-fashioned laugh. The daybed and cushion are from Drew Hemming Upholstery. The fireplace that’s roaring in the corner is from Euro Fireplaces. The cake is by Larissa Wolf-Tasker from the Lake House and Dairy Flat Farm, the flowers are from Wombat Hill Florist, the pendant light is from Devol Kitchens and the rug is from Armadillo & Co.
A DAY IN THE COUNTRY
GETTING UP TO STEED IN THE YEARS before her death in 1954, the Australian writer
Miles Franklin — most famous for her sizzling debut novel My Brilliant Career — wrote a slender childhood memoir. By then in her 70s, she recalled, “The rhythm of horses came to me earlier than walking. In those moments … when the sense of actuality has been slightly loosened ... there recurs for ever, like the movement of a stream or the pattern of leaves flickering in a zephyr, the sensation of a well-bred horse being released, or about to be released, into action.” The manuscript published after she died was called Childhood at Brindabella. I was a history student the first time I read those words and they snatched me back to my own childhood, where the only place I ever wanted to be was on the back of my (not very well-bred) pony. From my horseless student years, I am now lucky enough to be the caretaker of a special grey pony named Monte. When his owner heard my daughter didn’t have a horse, she generously offered him. He was paddock fat and not interested in being ridden by a 13 year old but, after a turbulent few weeks, the two entered the sweetest partnership. Fast-forward 10 years and, whereas my daughter has long since graduated from Monte’s broad back, he is now perfect for me.
Monte was loaned to Maggie 10 years ago, after her daughter Lottie’s thoroughbred mare was injured. “He unceremoniously dumped her a couple of times,” says Maggie, “but she unlocked the athlete within.” 10 COUNTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
Horses have always been a passion, but the role of groom and taxidriver and has seen me ride less and less. The uninhibited joy I knew as a child on the back of a horse was replaced with middle-aged caution. I decided the best thing to do to regain some competence was for Monte and I to go to Hobart for lessons with a friend who is a show-jump coach. At first we were cautious and unfit, and I seesawed from dry-mouthed fear to euphoria as we worked our way up to small jumps. In his day Monte was a superstar jumper, and I couldn’t have a better master. It was as if I’d been asleep, dead to the sensations that used to animate every thought and movement. Then one afternoon, we cantered up to a line of jumps. Monte saw the distance perfectly, and for a change I sat still and balanced. We land, take off, land, three strides, take off, land, four strides, take off and the last is cleared. A smile I hadn’t felt since I was 12 welled up out of me, and I knew I had the look of the ecstatic. Monte dropped to a walk and I hugged his sweaty neck. It’s a gift, the moment of connection where the shared language is intuition, touch and trust. It’s Miles’ remembered rhythm, and mine too. Maggie MacKellar lives on a sheep farm in Tasmania. Her work includes the acclaimed memoir When it Rains.
PHOTOGRAPHY MAGGIE MACKELLAR PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JO ADAMS
THE WORDS OF A FAMOUS AUSTRALIAN AUTHOR RECONNECT MAGGIE MACKELLAR WITH HER PONY AND HER CHILDHOOD.
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HALLOWED GROUND
ANDREW HARDY HAS RETURNED TO THE VINEYARD WHERE IT ALL BEGAN FOR HIS FAMOUS WINEMAKING FAMILY ALMOST 150 YEARS AGO. WORDS KY LIE IMESON PHOTOGRAPHY CHR ISTOPHER MOR R ISON
MCLA R EN VA LE SA PEOPLE Andrew Hardy is a fifth-generation winemaker and is utilising his family’s historic vineyard for his own label, Ox Hardy Wines. FACING PAGE The sun setting over the Upper Tintara Vineyard in McLaren Valley, SA.
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PEOPLE MCLA R EN VA LE SA Andrew, dressed in one his distinctive pink shirts, plunging grapes in the open slate fermenters in the winery at Upper Tintara. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Taking a sample from the fermenter; Andrew doing a taste test; the original winery had been dormant for 95 years; grandsons Clancy, six (in helmet), and Charlie, 10, watch Andrew at work.
AS YOU WALK closer to the rows of vines you see the thick
gnarled stumps twisting up out of the earth. Planted in 1891 by Thomas Hardy, considered to be the father of South Australian wine, they are now under the care of his great-great-grandson Andrew Hardy, a fifth generation winemaker. Thomas not only planted these vines, some of the oldest in Australia; a gravity-fed winery with open slate fermenter was also built during his time at the 141-hectare property at Upper Tintara in McLaren Vale, SA, which in its heyday was home to 360 residents who helped tend to the grapes. This land has been in Andrew’s family for 149 years; it represents a connection to his ancestors and the past, becoming something of a driving force for Andrew who, after 35 years at Petaluma, began his own label making wine from the grapes grown here. Andrew’s first memories of the property are “riding around on motorbikes and mucking around” as a child. His father Bob, the fourth generation of Hardy winemakers, let him find his own way. “I grew up going to work with Dad,” he explains. “Mum and Dad didn’t put any pressure on me.
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I went jackerooing in Deniliquin and started ag science at uni but left to do the winemaking course at Wagga. Brian Croser gave me my first job.” He spent his entire professional career at Petaluma, beginning in 1983 and leaving in 2018. Since the late 1990s, he and Bob had been making small amounts of shiraz — for family consumption only — from the old vines. “Dad made the wine for fun and I always wanted to do it seriously, but he didn’t,” Andrew explains. “In the end he said ‘you can do it when I’m dead’, so I did.” In 2019 Ox Hardy Wines was born, showcasing the 45-hectare Upper Tintara Vineyard, including the remaining 2.54 hectares of 129-year-old Ancestor vines, as they are known. The crowning glory in his line-up of wines is the 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz. He also makes two other shirazes from the Upper Tintara Vineyard and a grenache from nearby Blewitt Springs — all reds. “There is small amount of fiano growing at Upper Tintara so that will be added hopefully one day.” So what was it about wine that captured Andrew’s imagination and led him to follow in the footsteps of his >
PEOPLE MCLA R EN VA LE SA
“Wine is not just a drink, it’s around when we celebrate and commiserate.”
forefathers? “You grow grapes and you make wine. It’s truly paddock to plate,” he says. “Wine is a great socialiser, which is something we all missed during isolation. “Wine is not just a drink, it’s around when we celebrate and commiserate.” And who is Ox Hardy? ‘Ox’ is Andrew’s nickname, he was given it Year 5, when he started a new school. “I was playing basketball and barged over a lot of boys and that was that — for 49 years I’ve been called Ox,” explains the 59 year old. There was no question what his label would be named and its colour reflects his love of bright pink shirts. It’s not only the grapes that Andrew is using for his new label; the historic gravity-fed winery and slate fermenters are back in use. Wine was made again in the original fermenters in 2018, 95 years since they were last put to work. Surrounded by all this history and tradition, it is no wonder Andrew’s mind turns to succession. He and his wife Georgina have four children: Emilie, 38, Robert, 34, Henry, 33, and Margaux, 30. “Henry is in the wine trade, first as brand manager at Stonier, and he is now in London working for [wine writer] Matthew Jukes,” he says. “So hopefully...” Or perhaps it will be one of Andrew’s grandchildren, who at this very moment are whizzing around the property on motorbikes just as their grandfather did as a boy, who will take the reins and keep the Hardy tradition alive? For more information about Ox Hardy Wines, telephone (08) 8362 8622 or visit oxhardywines.com.au
CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Andrew enjoying one of his wines; at Tintara, you are surrounded by history and tradition. Thomas Hardy purchased the property in 1871; a stone laid in memory of Andrew’s dad, Bob; eldest child Emilie takes the new generation of Hardys out for a spin, just like Andrew when he was a kid “riding around on motorbikes and mucking around”. FACING PAGE Old vines in the Upper Tintara Vineyard.
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A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY
This month, show your support for a new fundraising campaign to help our nation’s embattled wildlife and sanctuaries. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON
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Kate, the bare-nosed wombat, is cared for at the Emerald Monbulk Wildlife Shelter in Victoria and is best friends with another orphaned wombat, William.
A MONTH IN THE COUNTRY
INSPIRED BY A REQUEST for a large print of Waldo the
orphaned joey that graced the cover of Country Style’s Spirit of the Bush issue in February, I launched a personal project that has seen me travel across the country and raise funds for our precious wildlife carers. These dedicated individuals give so much to our native animals, and I want to support them. I called the project Prints for Wildlife, and the concept is simple — I visit wildlife sanctuaries when I have time in between shoots, take a portrait of one animal in care, and 100 per cent of profits from each sale of that fine art print will go directly back to that wildlife sanctuary. The funds are used to look after the animals in their care, to buy items such as food, teats and bottles, maintenance of the shelter and fuel. Many of these small wildlife shelters are not registered charities (mostly due to a lack of time and resources required to attain charitable status), so I donate the funds via a local, independent charity. Most of the carers are completely self-funded or rely on occasional donations. COVID-19 has also had a negative impact on fundraising, with events such as sausage sizzles cancelled.
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With each portrait comes the story of the animal — mostly heartbreaking stories of how they came to be in care, and nearly always due to the intervention of humans in some way. The Major Mitchell’s cockatoo Birdy Num Nums made the mistake of walking through the back door of a house in Western Australia and then spent the next 10 years in a cage before travelling across the Nullabor to finally be taken into care in Victoria; Kate the wombat was orphaned when her mother was killed; Candy the eastern grey kangaroo was orphaned on a notorious stretch of road in Trentham, Victoria; and ZacDan the flying fox was found icy cold and unresponsive on a cold and wet morning next to his dead mum, who had crashed into a parked car after trying to leave a very low bunch of flowers on a huge tree. This is a long-term project and I will continue to add to the print shop as I travel around Australia and visit different sanctuaries. I must thank the Little Sister studio for donating their time and skills for all the design work. To browse and buy Marnie’s wildlife portraits online, visit marniehawson.com.au/prints-for-wildlife
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT After a decade living in a cage Birdy Num Nums was finally released; Marnie, with miniature pinscher Dexter, has instigated a fundraising campaign to help wildlife; this white eastern grey kangaroo named Angel was a surprise delivery for her ailing mum; Kate the wombat. FACING PAGE Cliffy the ringtail possum has been raised with a group of other orphans.
distance learning
LIKE THE REST OF US, PHOTOGRAPHER ABBIE MELLE HAD TO SLOW DOWN AND TAKE STOCK OVER THE LAST FEW MONTHS. SHE TELLS US WHAT LOCKDOWN HAS TAUGHT HER ABOUT A QUIETER LIFE. W0RDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY A BBIE MELLE
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SOUTHER N HIGHLA NDS NSW PEOPLE Abbie Melle on her daily walk near her home in the Southern Highlands of NSW during the lockdown. FACING PAGE The morning mist.
CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT There was time for browsing cookbooks; foraging grasses; “I lit beautiful candles... and ordered fresh flowers”; frosty morning walks. FACING PAGE Abbie taking a long walk by the river.
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SOUTHER N HIGHLA NDS NSW PEOPLE
WHEN ALL THE EVENTS surrounding COVID-19 came into
play towards the end of March this year, I was on the brink of a number of full, busy months. As a lifestyle and editorial photographer, I had work trips planned across many states in Australia and also Europe, my calendar filled with weeks of photo shoots and flights and long road trips in my car. And then, in one fell swoop, all of it was gone — postponed, cancelled or pushed aside. It was a strange and completely unexpected predicament to be in. For the past three years I’ve been living in a small cottage in the beautiful Southern Highlands of NSW with my sister Grace who, as an essential worker, continued her normal work routine. And so I found myself, for the first time in many years, with weeks stretching out before me at home — and the rare opportunity to pause. Initially I had a sense of bewilderment and, at times, grief. I love my work and the fullness it creates in my life, and when those moments were taken away, there was much that I missed. In between shoots I’m often at home, editing images and catching up on admin, so working from home has a sense of normality for me. But this time it felt different. The isolation from people was one of the harder aspects; the interaction with both family and friends left such a gap in my days, and I found I needed time to adjust to that and to feel settled with this new quietness. Gradually, though, days settled into a slow rhythm. For the first time in years I had the opportunity to watch autumn and winter unfold, and I took hold of that with joy.
I grew to love the daily habit of rolling out of bed early in the cool mornings, bundling up and heading out for a walk. Just down the end of my road there is a path, which cuts through and paddocks, following the course of the Wingecarribee River. Each morning I would walk there, taking the time to notice the changes as they unfolded. Though the path was the same each day, there was always new beauty to observe. The way the light sparkled on the frosty grass, or the touch of light mist on my face on the days when fog lay deep. Watching the trains cut through a gap in the paddock on their morning commute, and birds flying low. The soft tap as golden leaves fell from the trees, leaving branches bare, and a clearer view across the fields. There weren’t many others around during those sunrise walks, but gradually the people became familiar faces who would bring a smile to my morning. The elderly gentleman who I’d often hear singing along to his music before I saw him, the woman who always flashed a bright smile as she spun past on her rollerblades, and the couple with the beautiful dogs I wanted to pat each time. I came to value those walks dearly, during days that were filled with so many unknowns and the emotions of often tiring weeks. They were moments where, for as far as I could see, all was just as it should be — the river flowing smoothly, the horses grazing in their fields, the birds singing. As I walked I had the time to truly be quiet, and would come home refreshed and renewed. I’d find myself drawn to the quieter, slower tasks which so often were pushed aside or done hurriedly in the normal >
“For the first time in years, I had the opportunity to watch autumn and winter unfold.”
PEOPLE SOUTHER N HIGHLA NDS NSW
day-to-day. I spent hours browsing through cooking books, which had sat for months untouched on my shelves, making up lists and planning dinners. Cooking became a pleasure again, the joy of lingering over recipes and playing favourite pieces of music as pastry was rolled or cakes mixed. During those days at home, I craved order and beauty more than anything, so I lit beautiful candles on grey days and ordered fresh flowers. I was fortunate to have the beautiful Jonima Flowers farm doing home deliveries in my area, and I would call Ingrid and chat over the phone about what blooms she had growing, often choosing roses, and then have them arrive the next day. I’d scatter these bunches around the house, beside my bed and among my books on the dresser or the coffee table, their beautiful scent filling the rooms and golden cheeriness adding joy to those quiet days. The simple acts of gathering with friends or family became all the more precious after the forced time apart.
When those moments slowly became introduced again, they were all the more appreciated. Tea and cake in the garden with my parents was special after weeks of not seeing each other, those face-to-face, heart-to-heart talks just not the same over a Zoom call. There were small dinner parties with friends on cold winter evenings, hours spent around the table, with the fire roaring and rain falling outside. This season of isolation and uncertainty has made me realise the value of life’s slower, simpler moments. It’s made me reassess and appreciate the times often taken for granted. I’ve grown even fonder of this little home I have, and more resolved to keep those times of reading, or walking and gathering with friends, as a priority. Because there is so much joy to be found in those moments, and I feel thankful to have had this opportunity to realise that more deeply. To see more of Abbie’s work, follow her stagram @abbie_melle or visit abbiemelle.com
When Abbie could have tea and cake in the garden with her parents after isolation, it was even more precious.
MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD
HOW DO YOUNGSTERS FIRST DEVELOP A LOVE FOR FOOD? WE SPOKE TO CULINARY CREATORS AND CURATORS — CHEFS, AUTHORS AND HOSTS — TO FIND OUT ABOUT THEIR EARLY YEARS.
WORDS ALI GRIPPER, BARBARA SWEENEY, LEAH TWOMEY PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAM MEPPEM (BAUER IMAGE LIBRARY)
MATT MORAN A chef and restaurateur, Matt grew up on farms in Tamworth and then Badgerys Creek, both in NSW, before the family moved to suburban Sydney. He found TV fame in the Foxtel show Paddock to Plate and as a judge on The Great Australian Bake Off. “My first five years were spent on our farm in Tamworth. We were typical farmers; poor one year and wealthy the next, and eventually it didn’t work out in Tamworth, so we moved to a dairy farm at Badgerys Creek. That’s to the west of Sydney — back then it was completely rural — and we stayed there until I was about 10, when we moved to Seven Hills [a suburb of Sydney]. “I didn’t know what I was going to do — all I’d done was a bit of cooking at the local RSL. All I knew was that I was desperate to get a job, desperate to get out. So when I saw an ad for an apprenticeship, I went for it. It was on the North Shore, and it was one of Sydney’s top restaurants, but I didn’t know that — it could’ve been an RSL club for all I knew. “That pretty much changed my life. I began to see I could cook well, and I definitely saw cooking as a possible way out of my circumstances... “I came from a simple background of protein and three veg — I certainly didn’t get inspiration from what I grew up on. I saw food as something
that keeps you going, meals put fuel in the tank, and I had convinced myself that I didn’t like fish or prawns, even though I hadn’t even tried them. “It really opened my eyes to a whole new world. I saw what you could do with food and how it could become a great pleasure. Apart from my wife, it’s the greatest love affair I’ve ever had.”
JAMES VILES Chef and director of Biota Dining, James grew up in Scone and Bowral in NSW. At the tender age of 23, he receivd his first Sydney Morning Herald Chef’s Hat. “Growing up in Scone, I was always muddy. I loved being outdoors — and I still love it. I don’t remember our TV. I’m sure we had one, but I was always outside. We had a big, old cedar house on acreage; I remember waking up in the morning and there would be kangaroos boxing out the front... “I was eleven or twelve when we moved to Bowral, and I got a job after school in the butcher’s shop in town, washing up and making sausages. I couldn’t wait for school to finish every day because I couldn’t wait to go to work — it was something I could do with my hands. “I don’t remember getting paid — the money just went in a bank account — but I used to get paid in meat, too. My mate and I would ride >
ABOVE A picture of Matt from his primary school days. LEFT James at age seven getting muddy at Barrington Tops National Park, NSW. BELOW James (right) poses for the camera with his sisters, Kelly (left), three, and Alex (centre), eight months, when they were living in Scone. Their dog Sophie joins them.
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SKYE MCALPINE Author of cookbook A Table in Venice: Recipes from my Home, Skye spent her early years between Hampshire in the UK, Venice in Italy and Broome in Western Australia. She now lives between London and Venice. “I loved Broome. Our house was a series of pavilions with a rambling garden, and my bedroom was small with twin bunks and corrugated-iron walls. I would go to sleep running my fingers up and down those walls... “Our kitchen was a big open room with lovely old-fashioned fans on the ceiling and tons of light. But what I remember most is that we had an ice-cream maker and my mother would make amazing ice-cream that
MARION GRASBY A cookbook author, food producer and TV presenter, Marion grew up in Darwin and Papua New Guinea. She gained fame as a contestant on MasterChef Australia in 2010. “All my memories of Darwin, all the smells and flavours, have an Asian influence. I grew up with lots of other Thai and Asian kids, and our childhoods were literally all about nd food — we’d go to friends’ houses and play with the spring roll wrappers, or I’d help my parents harvest mangoes and turn them into dried mango strips. Darwin has such an incredible mix of cultures. There were lots of Greek kids at my school and my parents were really good friends with one family who would invite us round for a big lamb on the spit in their backyard. I used to love going there.
“In those early years, we lived in a few different houses. One had a really beautiful tropical garden. It had a banana tree, a mango tree, chillies and Asian herbs, and a mulberry tree. Our hands would always be stained purple from picking the berries.”
ANNABEL CRABB Journalist and commentator Annabel is a mainstay of Australian TV, and was the host of ABC’s Kitchen Cabinet. She grew up on the Samphire Coast in South Australia. “My dad is a colourful local identity. He has always been a great enthusiast n in the t neighbourhood — he’s the person
WORDS CATHERINE McCORMACK, K ELIZA O’HARE O HARE PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN COHEN, MARK ROPER STYLING SAMANTHA COUTTS, VICKI VALSAMIS
our motorbikes around all weekend and then have a big barbecue with all this meat I’d earned. That’s when the food thing started for me. “From there, I took a part-time job in the kitchen at a five-star hotel in Bowral. It was a very different world to the one I grew up in. I enjoyed being there, with adults… and I heard a lot of words I’d never heard before! It all seemed very exotic — the head chef was American and the sous chef was from Italy. I lived for that on the weekends... “I loved my childhood; I’ve got lots of good memories. But growing up in kitchens definitely changed me. As a boy, I was a bit of a scaredy-cat and quite sensitive. I toughened up, and I learned how to put my feelings on a plate.”
she served in tiny little cones — I would cover mine in Ice Magic... “In Broome, we always had big lunches and dinners at a table outside under the mango tree. Mum and Dad both loved food, cooking and laying the table, so it was very collaborative. It’s a lovely way to do it; it’s more fun if you’re all doing it together.”
MY COUNTRY CHILDHOOD
“Mum and dad both loved food, cooking and laying the table, so it was very collaborative.” who bought a hovercraft because he thought it might help with the crabbing. He has a great enthusiasm for life’s odd pursuits. My mother is a very funny and generous person, and a great cook, which is where I’ve had an extremely good life coach.
“James and Tom, my brothers, and I had a typical country childhood, in that we’d come home on the school bus, Mum would meet us at the end of the track, and we’d walk home and then just disappear until sundown. Mainly we used to go and play down by the river. We’d go yabbying, make boats and cubby houses, and cut steps into the bank of the creek if there was water available — a bit like Ratty in The Wind in the Willows. “We had a favourite space where the bank had been eroded under the roots of a big river gum; it was almost like a little cave. It was where we used to set our yabby trap... “You’re very privileged to grow up on a farm — you’ve always got each other to play with and you’ve always got things to do.”
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP Annabel with brother James and father, Mac; Annabel at age eight; Annabel and James; Marion with cousins in Thailand, circa 1986; Marion with mother Noi, circa 1983, Marion as a toddler. FACING PAGE, FROM TOP Three-year-old Skye baking; Skye, two, with her mum Romilly.
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STYLING/SET: JULIETTE WANTY, @JULIETTEWANTY; PHOTOGRAPH: FLASHSTUDIOS, @FLASHSTUDIOSNZ
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Above: Fisher & Paykel machines ofer unique cycles for woollen and delicate items.
HOME SWA NSEA TASM A NI A
BACK TO THE BEGINNING PERCHED ABOVE TASMANIA’S FREYCINET PENINSULA IS A PEACEFUL RETREAT THAT REMINDS THE OWNERS OF THEIR CHILDHOODS. WORDS HILA RY BUR DEN PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON ST YLING LY NDA GA R DENER A ND BELLE HEMMING
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On the living room windowsill is a bottle from Joyce Antiques, a Wedgwood urn from A Creative Lifestyle and a rabbit sculpture. The seat cushion and cushion (on far wall) are custom made by Cover Up Furniture and Upholstery and covered in Warwick Plateau fabric, the patterned cushion is made by the owner Bek Burrows and the Flocca cushion is from Hale Mercantile Co. The prints are by Mads Stage. FACING PAGE The coastal garden.
HOME SWA NSEA TASM A NI A
at The Burrows — not just because that’s where hares live. There are deeper reasons to do with memories of school holidays spent at nana’s beachside home on Stradbroke Island and a desire to recreate that comfortable feeling in Tasmania’s Swansea. A print of the famous Young Hare, painted in 1502 by Albrecht Dürer, was handed down through grandmother to grandson, and now has pride of place in a renovated shack overlooking Great Oyster Bay. The small 1860s stone cottage, with extensions from 1950 and 1970, was originally intended as a bolthole for Bek Burrows and Paul DeRuyter, the owners of a wedding and events business in Launceston. While their East Launceston home is more formal, The Burrows is about old ways, former residents and treasured possessions. “The beds are sumptuous, but the doors are old, the laundry has a concrete floor, and there’s no dishwasher,” says Bek. “It’s not about living with the latest appliance or technology.” The television is in a wardrobe. Children’s shoes — good luck charms rescued in the three-month renovation from wall cavities where they were originally placed by British settlers — are preserved in a display jar. Everything has a story. It was meant to be an escape from the world of creating up to 30 weddings a year with 12- to 18-hour days, usually four nights a week away from home. “You get your 40-hour working week in three days,” says Paul, a former marine engineer whose renovation skills were honed working on ships at sea, “where you have to make do with what you’ve got”. >
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PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY FIONA VAIL
IT’S PERFECTLY FITTING that a wild hare would find a home
The kitchen table and chairs are from Joyce Antiques, the scales are an heirloom, the light shade is from Vintage@44 and the blinds are custom made by Ashlee Allison. The vintage oil painting is by an unknown artist. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Paul DeRuyter and Bek Burrows with their children Poppy and Oscar; in the living room, the armchair is from Howard & Sons, the cushion is from Hale Mercantile Co, the stool is from Joyce Antiques and the trunk (used as a coffee table) was a vintage find; this print of Young Hare (1502) by Albrecht DĂźrer was handed down to Paul by his grandmother. Vintage binoculars from Margate Train sit on a table from Joyce Antiques.
HOME SWA NSEA TASM A NI A Antique French doors from Margate Train and timber-framed windows from Andy’s Salvage bathe the living room in light. On the sofa from The Vintage Rose are cushions from Hale Mercantile Co and a Country Road throw. A large cupboard, which holds the television, is from Joyce Antiques and is painted in Porter’s Paints Equinox. The Victorian gentleman’s chair (in foreground) and matching lady’s chair (beside sofa) are from Joyce Antiques and the cushion on the gentleman’s chair and wicker basket are from Red Fox Antiques. The rug is from The Evandale Village Store, the lamp from Junk Street Store and the light shades are from Vintage@44. The artworks are, from top, by William Rhodes and from Red Fox Antiques.
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ABOUT THE HOUSE
• Felix Blackman of Blackman Creative
provided structural advice to the couple when they removed the 160-year-old stone wall. 0437 340 493. Miriam Shevland from Playstreet designed paved nodes using stone from the removed wall. 68 Brisbane St, Hobart, Tasmania, 0455 022 266, playstreet.com.au Carolyn Imlach from The Evandale Village Store helped Bek choose rugs, linen and colour palette for paint and textiles. Bek sewed Bedouin linen sheets, sourced from Carolyn, into curtains for the bathhouse. 5 Russell St, Evandale, Tasmania, (03) 6391 8048, thevillage.store The sofa and meat safe are from the personal collection of Amanda Skipper from The Vintage Rose. 0409 172 438. Bek and Paul relied on “the amazing eye” of Ian Joyce from Joyce Antiques for many pieces of furniture, such as the kitchen table and a pair of gentleman’s and lady’s chairs. 0438 885 961.
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HOME SWA NSEA TASM A NI A
“The beds are sumptuous, but the doors are old ... and there’s no dishwasher. It’s not about living with the latest appliance or technology.”
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In the bathroom is a stool is from Joyce Antiques and the towel on the door is from The Evandale Village Store. The tiles are from Montile. LEFT Family portraits add old-world charm to this bedroom. The black pillowcase is from Major Minor, the striped cushion (front) is from Hale Mercantile Co, the blanket is from Country Road, the side table is from Vintage Fox Antiques and the light shade is from Vintage@44. BELOW On top of a side table from Joyce Antiques are drawers bought at Tullochs Auctions. A painting by William Rhodes and a 1960s Paolo Venini Sputnik chandelier are above. FACING PAGE The main bedroom has lovely views and features Major Minor bed linen and sheer curtains from Hale Mercantile Co.
One stone wall was completely removed, revealing views of Freycinet and Schouten Island, and replaced with salvaged windows and French doors. The back door is now the front door, so that when you arrive the view is in front of you rather than behind. An internal room has become a glamorous foyer. Tiny rooms were opened up to make one living room, presented in three romantic and functional vignettes, pulled together with Bek’s soft and textured colour palette, Paul’s long-haul appreciation of the table and chair settings in Qantas lounges, and the ever-luminous East Coast light. Like many, Bek and Paul, with their children Oscar, 20, and Poppy, 17, are redefining their lives post the pandemic. “We can’t go back to how we were,” says Bek. “I don’t reckon we’ll have normal again.” COVID-19 has meant time locked down together in The Burrows with a flatlined business since mid-March. It’s made them think, get up late, slow down, and decide to do fewer weddings so they can spend more time relaxing, reading a book all day on a voluminous, slouchy couch — with that view of sunrise over the Hazards, the moon on Great Oyster Bay, the curious addiction that is cloud watching, and the luxury of time. Bek has the energy of a dragonfly buzzing and, while Paul is the air beneath her wings, you get the feeling that only COVID-19 could stop her. Sitting like a grounded cloud on a hill overlooking Freycinet Peninsula, The Burrows is filled with treasures; some were collected by the couple from auctions, markets and salvage yards and others were handed down. Like Young Hare, which came to Paul via his grandmother, Margritte, >
HOME SWA NSEA TASM A NI A
The Burrows is a coming together of the couple’s separate lives and dreams, a place to indulge the... feeling of their childhoods.
who emigrated to Australia from Germany in the 1950s. He remembers spending school holidays and weekends with his nana at her Point Lookout home. “Friday afternoons after school, she’d pick up a Post or People magazine,” says Paul. “Our goal was to completely finish the big crossword by the time we drove off the ferry. If there was a tablecloth on the table, we had to wear a shirt to dinner, otherwise you could wear whatever you liked, straight off the beach.” Bek’s childhood memories also revolve around mealtimes. She pulls a pear tea cake from the oven, a recipe from the Central Cookery Book, and places it on the kitchen table — always the heart of the home for her mother, Jenny, and father, Noel, co-founding parents of the Mornington Peninsula Community School (now Woodleigh School), and owners of popular French restaurant Bittern Cottage Restaurant. “It was ‘make it, bake it, sew it, grow it’,” says Bek. “They weren’t hippies. It was more about a respect for where things come from and a slower way of life.”
The Burrows is a coming together of the couple’s separate lives and dreams, a place to indulge the Friday night feeling of their childhoods. “You arrive, you unpack, and you relax. You leave all the stress at the door,” says Bek. If her grandparents were here now they would see their great-grandchildren curled up in their fireside chairs, reading books from the op shop, doing jigsaws, and playing chess or Monopoly. Everything is a style Bek calls “a bit undone” — just like the flower arrangements she makes for weddings. The fine arts graduate inside her knows the space in between blooms speaks as loudly as the flowers themselves. On the mantelpiece is a jar of cat’s eyes, the white foot of the sea snail, that the family has collected from beaches. A note to Bek, handwritten on Huon pine, reads “Thank you for joining us together.” There is the sound of waves crashing and Paul says that he always feels comfortable by the sea. For more information about The Burrows, visit theburrows.com.au
Wallabies visit between dusk and dawn. FACING PAGE In the outdoor bathhouse, accessed from the garden or deck, there is a claw-foot bath, found in a friend’s shed and restored by the couple, and curtains made by Bek from Bedouin Societe linen sheets. Beside the bath is a stool from Joyce Antiques and the towel and mat are from The Evandale Village Store. The chandelier is an heirloom, the Art Deco doors are from Andy’s Salvage and the wall is painted in Porter’s Paint Blue Steel. JULY 2020 COU NTRY ST Y LE 41
N EW LEASE ON LI FE
A RUNDOWN HISTORIC BUILDING IN A VICTORIAN GOLDFIELDS TOWN HAS BEEN TRANSFORMED BY A COUPLE WITH A CLEAR VISION FOR WHAT IT COULD BECOME. W0RDS SA R A H PICK ETTE PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN ST YLING TESS NEW M A N-MOR R IS
M A LDON V ICTOR I A HOME The back garden at Gayle Lamb and Trevor Finlayson’s home has pencil pines, a silky oak, red geraniums, and yellow euphorbia wulfenii. FACING PAGE In the main living area, the sofa is from Cote Provence (since closed) the red cushions are Linum and the chairs are Thonet. The artworks are Under the Tree by Robyn Raynor (top left) The Emu Hunt by David Hill (bottom left). Other artworks unknown.
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HOME M A LDON V ICTOR I A A stained-glass door by Steptoe’s Renovation Supplies creates a beautiful effect, the table was made by owner Trevor Finlayson and the display shelf is from Going Going Gone (since closed). FACING PAGE, FROM LEFT The wood stove is from Steptoe’s Renovation Supplies and the pots are from eBay; on the bathroom windowsill are Bed Bath N’ Table vessels.
WHEN GAYLE LAMB and Trevor Finlayson chanced upon
a rundown stone cottage on the edge of Maldon, a goldfields town about 140km north-west of Melbourne, they knew that they’d struck it lucky. Originally constructed about 160 years ago, the structure was in a state of disrepair, but it presented a challenge the seasoned renovators were happy to take on. “Oh, it was rugged all right,” says Gayle. “I suspect a lot of people before us had looked at it and run a mile. We were looking for a house with character on a good-sized block of land and because we had a tight budget we knew we were always going to end up with a property that needed work. But it was rustic and charming, and those attributes were top of our list of priorities.” The cottage is one of the oldest buildings in Maldon. “It dates back to the 1860s when a Cornish goldminer built it so he could live here with his wife and seven children — in a single stone room,” she says. “A couple of modest extensions had been added over time, and in a very piecemeal way.” The couple bought the house and its land — a quarter of a hectare — about 15 years ago and moved in six years ago, having long admired the Maldon area. “We’d been visiting friends who live here for many years,” says Gayle, “and, even though we looked elsewhere around the state, it felt like the right spot for us when we decided to move out of Melbourne.”
They loved the landscape and the heritage buildings that are in abundance in Maldon, which was classified by the National Trust as Australia’s first Notable Town in 1966. “The history runs deep here but the town hasn’t been overly gentrified,” she explains. “There are a lot of wonderfully creative people in the area — so many artists and writers — and there’s a strong community interest in architecture, gardening, good food and locally sourced produce. These are all things that interest us, too.” Having worked with local builder Graham West on the property that they own next door, which they now rent out as holiday accommodation, they knew he was the right person to renovate and extend their cottage. “He really listened to what we said,” says Gayle. “We’d talk everything through and collaborate very closely on the progress of the renovation. He’s brilliant.” To create more living space in the house, Graham added on a generous open-plan living and dining area. Its soaring ceiling has exposed handmade timber trusses and its floors are laid with a mix of unpolished boards that were found at local salvage yards. “Some of the floorboards had bits of newspaper stuck on them so you could read snippets of news from the 1960s,” she says. “It would have easy to polish or stain the floor, but we were keen to leave it as it was.” >
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HOME M A LDON V ICTOR I A
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT In the kitchen, Portugeuse crockery is on display in a plate rack that was bought from a market and came from a demolished Hilton hotel in East Melbourne. On the Ikea oak veneer benchtop are tins and a jug from Castlemaine Vintage Bazaar; the chimney is original to the house and in the foregound is a large bush of ‘Tuscan Blue’ rosemary; in the main living room, a Moroccan copper bowl filled with oranges from their garden sits on a Thonet bistro table from Zacher Antiques; Gayle enjoys getting out in the garden. FACING PAGE The compact vegetable patch is located beside the garden shed.
ABOUT THE HOUSE Antiques and vintage pieces are a mainstay of Gayle’s decorating style. Some of her favourite places to pick items up include Zacher Antiques, Steptoe’s Renovation Supplies and Castlemaine Vintage Bazaar. (03) 9699 3301, zacherantiques. com.au; (03) 9419 9366, steptoes.com.au; (03) 5470 6555, castlemainebazaar.com.au Repairs to the stone section of the house were carried out by stonemasons Michael and Chris Archbold of Natural Stone Construction. 0408 198 759, archboldstone.com The weatherboard exterior is painted in Taubmans Boulder Ridge with Dulux Berkshire White trim. taubmans.com.au; dulux.com.au Baltic pine imported from Finland lines the main living area. It was sourced from Tonks Brothers Hardware, which has since closed. The ceiling above the kitchen dining area has an intricate pattern of tongue and groove boards. To learn how to make no-fail, no-knead bread in Gayle’s kitchen, visit artisanbread.com.au
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“Some of the floorboards had bits of newspaper stuck on them so you could read snippets of news from the 1960s ... we were keen to leave it as it was.”
A view into Gayle’s study shows a dresser from Zacher Antiques. The artworks are, from top, by her late brother Gary Kennedy and friend Sue Goudie. FACING PAGE The main bedroom has an early Australian iron bedhead. The lamp base is from Going, Going, Gone (since closed). 48 COUNTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
M A LDON V ICTOR I A HOME
The living area is home to treasured pieces of antique furniture Gayle has collected over the years. “It’s great to have a bit more space to be able to get them out and use them,” she says. What was once the old stone cottage is now the main bedroom, with the space kept particularly cosy in winter by a quaint old French iron heater. At the generous kitchen bench Gayle runs bread-making classes for small groups. “I teach groups of four and fewer, because I like my lessons to be hands-on; it’s no good telling someone how to make bread but not showing them. You need to have your hands in the bowl.” She and her students bake their loaves in Gayle’s electric oven, but she also has an old wood stove in her kitchen. “It’s very nice on a cold morning,” she says, “but I don’t tend to use it all that much for cooking.” The main living space opens out via large French doors to a deck. It’s here that Gayle and Trevor like to sit with a cup of tea and look out over their lovely garden, a space they’ve put so much energy and hard work into over the years. “Because of our climate here — we get extremes of hot and
cold — we’ve gone with a Mediterranean-style garden,” says Gayle. “Things like lavender and rosemary grow really well here, and so do our pencil pines, oranges and fig trees.” “The vegie patch gets plenty of attention, even though by the end of summer it’s generally looking a bit bedraggled,” she says with a laugh. “The summer heat has also caused us to gravel sections of the garden so there’s a bit less brown lawn to deal with in those very hot months.” Gayle has begun to keep bees and has been delighted by the amount of honey she has received and been able to give away to friends. The couple has planted many trees throughout the garden and their great success with this has led to them recently purchasing a farm about an hour’s drive away from their house. “It has good pasture and about 700 olive trees. In the future, we hope to get some stock and to harvest the olives so we have our own supply of table olives and oil. We’re the sort of people who always have a project on the horizon!” For more information, telepho 12 068 855 or visit maldonminerscottage.com.au
“The history runs deep here but the town hasn’t been overly gentrified ... there’s a strong community interest in architecture, gardening, good food and locally sourced produce.”
M A LDON V ICTOR I A HOME Chairs from Rogue Imports and a table from Going, Going, Gone (both now closed) are on the back verandah. FACING PAGE A standout feature of the laundry is a wall made from local stone. The French market basket, vintage ironing board and clothes drying rack (above) were picked up at Maldon Antique & Collectables Fair or found on eBay. The wire basket, used for harvesting vegetables, is from Much Ado.
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HOME BOOROWA NSW
LOVE BUILDS
IT MIGHT BE STRIKINGLY MODERN AND FAULTLESSLY DECORATED, BUT WHAT MAKES THIS FARMHOUSE SO BEAUTIFUL IS THE HEART THAT’S BEEN PUT INTO IT. WORDS SA R A H PICK ETTE PHOTOGRAPHY A BBIE MELLE
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A painting by Chris Kenyon from Soho Galleries Sydney presides over this space and the curtains, designed by the owner Kerry Johnson, were made by The Curtain and Blind Factory. FACING PAGE Peter and Kerry Johnson with their bichoodle Moet.
Seventy head of Angus cows are run on the property. CLOCKWISE, FROM RIGHT This comfy chair is from Early Settler and the artwork is by Chris Kenyon, bought from Soho Galleries Sydney; hats and jackets near the home’s entrance; Peter and Kerry on the deck with Moet. FACING PAGE The sculptures are from Willow Park Nursery.
BOOROWA NSW HOME
EVERY HOME TELLS a story, but some speak with such
clarity of their owners’ passion, vision and downright determination that it’s impossible not to notice the care and intention invested in it as you step through the door. This is one of those homes. Located just outside Boorowa, on the south-west slopes of NSW, the contemporary farmhouse represents the fruition of a dream that Kerry and Peter Johnson had: to build a home together on their 900 hectares of grazing land, close to family and in a part of the country they both loved. “We spent a year or so looking at different parts of the property to find the right site, and eventually we decided on a knoll that faces north and has beautiful views,” says Peter. “After much consideration, we opted for a simple, elongated design with the main bedroom and ensuite at one end, a guest bedroom and bathroom at the other, and a huge, open-plan living area in the middle.” Development approval was granted in 2016 and work on the portal-frame build started, but was brought to a halt by an extremely wet winter. And then Kerry was diagnosed with cancer. “When Kerry started having chemotherapy she’d be good for two days before she’d feel sick, so we’d race the 400 kilometres from the Central Coast to here and get
some work done before it hit her. Everything was done in quick bursts, because it had to be.” Kerry’s daughter Emmeline — one of the couple’s blended family of five grown-up children — had also suggested she might like to have her wedding at the house in October 2018. “Well, that was quite a deadline!” says Peter. With experience in both fashion and interior design, Kerry had no trouble forming a picture in her mind of what she wanted her new house to look like. Meanwhile, Peter took on the role of owner/builder and project manager. “Kerry would design something and it was up to me to find a way to bring it to life,” he says. “I was her facilitator.” But he was, in truth, a lot more than that: Peter built much of the furniture for the house, he constructed doors and joinery, and painted the soaring ceilings of the main bedroom. “Kerry had a palette of just two colours and I’d just finished painting the VJ boards on the ceiling when she cast a critical eye over it and decided that, actually, she’d like it in the other colour. So it went back to the other colour — right after I called in a professional painter!” The main bedroom is a beautifully warm space, says Peter. It’s characterised by the dark timber headboard >
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In a corner near the front door is an Eastwood Chest from Interiors Online and a Flynn Round Mirror from Vavoom. The light pendant was made by Kerry and the chair is an heirloom. FACING PAGE The dining setting was designed and built by Kerry and Peter, the rug is from Ikea, the stove is Euromaid and the light pendants in the background were made by Kerry. She also took the photos that can be seen on the wall near the window. The top one is of the first bull they bought for the farm and his offspring are pictured below.
BOOROWA NSW HOME
ABOUT THE HOUSE Key contractors on the build of this house were MA Steel and Everdell Constructions. (02) 6382 4387, masteel.com.au; (02) 6382 7558, everdelltest.wordpress.com The building’s exterior is Colorbond in Dulux Monument. This colour is repeated inside and teamed with Dulux Shale Grey. 1800 022 999, colorbond.com; 13 25 25, dulux.com.au The Easycraft VJ panelling was sourced from Bunnings in Cowra and the spotted gum boards are from Midcoast Timber. Entry to the house is through a spotted gum 2500 x 1500 swing door designed and built by Kerry and Peter. bunnings.com.au; (02) 4323 6907, midcoasttimber.com.au The house is off-grid so it is more sustainable. It is powered by a 6kW PV system from Towards Tomorrow Energy. 1300 732 224, towardstomorrowenergy.org Kerry’s favourite places to source items for this home included Pottery Barn, Three Donkeys Home, The General Store, Country Road, Ikea and I Love Linen. 1800 232 914, potterybarn.com.au; (02) 4309 5440, threedonkeys.com.au; (02) 6382 2021, facebook. com/thegeneralstorebychalkncheese; 1800 801 911, country road.com.au; ikea.com/au; 1300 859 773, ilovelinen.com.au
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HOME BOOROWA NSW
he made for the bed and its cluster of seven lights. “My job was to go up the ladder and she’d be like ‘move that one up’ then she’d step back and say ‘no, I think it needs to go higher… wait, a bit lower’.” Off the bedroom, there’s a 2.5 x 8 metre ensuite that opens to the outdoors and can truly be described as spectacular. Visitors enter the home’s main living zone through the breezeway and are instantly struck by the space, warmth and friendliness of Kerry’s design. A wall of windows ensures the expansive landscape beyond is omnipresent while spotted gum boards and VJ panelling offer a nod to the warm farmhouse aesthetic Kerry loved. Right through the house, there’s a beautiful tension at play between the rustic and the sophisticated. Kerry’s decorating style is faultless — “her ability to pick out homewares and know how to put them together has always left me in awe,” says Peter — but there’s nothing precious about the house. The flecks in the floor might accentuate the house’s colour
palette but at the end of the day it’s low-maintenance concrete that can handle anything a bloke coming in from the paddock can throw at it. The house was indeed finished for Emmeline’s wedding and the role it played in her special day filled Kerry and Peter with happiness and pride. In 2019, about a month before Kerry passed away, she and Peter moved into the house permanently. “When she knew she wasn’t going to get better she felt very strongly that she wanted to be here,” says Peter. For him, the house is a gift Kerry was able to leave behind — her touch is everywhere: in the light fittings she made, in the furniture she picked out, the curtains she sewed, and in the sheets she meticulously labelled in the linen cupboard so he knows which bed they’re for. “Kerry built two things: our family unit and the house. And the house is a place that’s all about cherishing family, so it’s no wonder we can feel her presence here.”
CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE In the guest room, the single beds can be wheeled together to form a queen, the stools are from The General Store and the light is designed and made by Kerry and Peter; chairs from Pottery Barn and a Kemlan fireplace from Burning Log; Kerry designed the wall and pendant lights, and made the curtains. Peter built the mirror frame and pendant lights. FACING PAGE A 15-year-old bed has been rejuventated for the guest room. The chair cover is from Muumuu Design, the frame is from Michael Cooke Garden Design and the rug is from West Elm.
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CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT On the property is a hill, called Little Carramumbola, which can be seen from the deck. The Mimosa director chairs are from Bunnings; Kerry and Peter designed and built the bed, shelf and bedside table in the main bedroom. The lamp was made by Kerry and the bed linen is from Adairs; a stack of firewood; merino sheep on the farm; Moet relaxing on the bed. FACING PAGE Kerry and Peter made the bench for the main bedroom ensuite and Kerry made the lights. The mirror and matching Fienza Bahama bath and basin are all from Sydney Taps.
BOOROWA NSW HOME
“Kerry built two things: our family unit and the house... so it’s no wonder we can feel her presence here.”
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OR A NGE NSW GARDEN ‘Desprez à Fleurs Jaunes’ rose is one of the feature plants at St Brigid’s, a property in Orange, NSW, where the owner Elizabeth Richards transformed a dilapidated church she bought years ago into a home. FACING PAGE The same rose obscures the studio roof.
TIMES PAST
STEP THROUGH THE GATES OF THIS GARDEN IN ORANGE, NSW, AND IT’S AS IF YOU HAVE BEEN MAGICALLY TRANSPORTED BACK A CENTURY. WORDS CHR ISTINE R EID PHOTOGRAPHY BR IGID A R NOTT
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GAR DEN OR A NGE NSW
WHEN ELIZABETH RICHARDS made the decision to relocate
to the New South Wales town of Orange 20-odd years ago to make a garden from scratch, she was filled with a mixture of anticipation and excitement. But she was also ambivalent, knowing it would be no easy venture. However, she had great support from her friends in both Orange and Sydney, and the move turned out to be a real adventure. “I loved the idea of enjoying four distinct garden seasons — very different from Queensland and the climate of Charters Towers where I had been living,” Elizabeth explains. “I wanted to create a final garden, an amalgam of all my interests and experience.” The block of land she bought, five kilometres from the centre of Orange, was originally part of an old apple orchard. “It’s not too big at 0.6 hectares and it was the classic blank canvas — there was not one single plant on it. Dips in the ground were the only visible evidence of long-vanished trees,” she says. “Another bonus was the good volcanic soil and views of Mount Canobolas and out to the Molong valley.” The bare site also proved the ideal place for Elizabeth to resurrect a church she had bought 10 years before. “I had seen this lonely, dilapidated, deconsecrated church, on the road near Prairie — a dot on the map between Charters Towers and Hughenden. I bought it and, after briefly residing beneath two jacaranda trees in my Charters Towers garden, it was cut into sections and trucked south to Bendemeer where it was stored in a friend’s shed for years,” she says. “In 2000, St Brigid’s made one more journey to its current home where a wonderful team of builders put it back together and added a long cross-section at the back to create a T-shaped house; the main body of the church is now a large drawing room with a big open fireplace,” she says. “I’ve always been interested in the vernacular architecture of the Australian bush — shearing sheds, country houses, churches and rural outbuildings. This was an ideal way to repurpose the church both as a home and central focus and then create a plant-appropriate garden around it.” Over the years, Elizabeth has added rural outbuildings based on the ubiquitous homestead meat house. These include a chicken shed decorated with a sculpture of worn garden tools. Recycled materials, corrugated iron and weathered timber give the impression that the church and surrounds have been in situ for more than a century. The garden, with an eclectic range of plants from exotic palms to roses and deciduous trees, also looks like it has evolved over a 100 years rather than the past 20. For example, on one side of the church Elizabeth has planted a collection of palms including jelly palms (Butia capitata), >
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CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE The grey foliage of the clipped wormwood hedge complements the corrugated iron on the garage; Elizabeth serves afternoon tea under the pergola, which is covered in an ornamental grapevine; the view across the lawn stretches away to the Molong valley. A nook provides a shady retreat. FACING PAGE, FROM TOP The climbing floribunda rose ‘Renae’ tumbles over the gate that leads to the chicken house; the front entrance gate was designed by Michael Lehany, a heritage landscape architect.
GAR DEN OR A NGE NSW
The magnificent salmon-coloured trunk of the Arbutus x andrachnoides stands out against the house facade, the clipped hedges of Luma apiculata and the yellow blooms of the David Austin ‘Windrush’ rose. FACING PAGE Elizabeth and Lily, a cross breed, walk past an apricot-coloured ‘Crépuscule’ rose on their way to the orchard.
“This was an ideal way to repurpose the church... and then create a plant-appropriate garden around it.” JULY 2020 COU NTRY ST Y LE 67
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Cattle grazing in a neighbour’s paddock with Mount Canobolas in the background; an unnamed rose that was discovered in a local cemetery; Elizabeth uses dense plantings of perennials in her garden to create contrasts in texture and foliage. FACING PAGE, FROM TOP Her ginger cat Maude relaxes in the sun beside a Luma apiculata hedge. The chicken house can be seen behind it; St Brigid’s, the rescued church, with the garden area called Tropicana that features a selection of palms and tree ferns.
OR A NGE NSW GARDEN
stout cordylines, tree ferns (Dicksonia antarctica) and several Chusan palms. “I felt so bad about taking the church away from the north, I decided to create a special area with a taste of Queensland and called it Tropicana!” she says. A Phoenix palm, two Mexican fan palms and two Chilean wine palms planted elsewhere add to the collection. Elizabeth has also relied on guidance from her friends, architectural historian Dr James Broadbent and heritage landscape architect Michael Lehany, whom she met while working at the Historic Houses Trust of NSW in the 1980s. “I was privileged to have their advice for both the house and garden; I couldn’t have made St Brigid’s without them. “There are sheets and sheets of plans and elevations and many pictures and sketches drawn on paper napkins made over countless cups of coffee,” she says. “They were instrumental in getting me to dig out the driveway a little, rather than having the lawn level with the drive surface; the impression we wanted to create was that the carriage loop had been worn down with years of use.” To complete the effect of the spell of the ages, Elizabeth planted one of her favourite trees, a Bunya pine (Araucaria bidwillii), in the centre of the loop. And on the outer rim of the drive, she has planted oaks nurtured from acorns collected at the Bendemeer friend’s property. “They have grown so well that I’ve been taking off the lower branches and pruning them up so that I can see to the landscape beyond,” she says. Other pockets have their own charm. An orchard area, which has heritage apples, apricots, nectarines and walnuts recalls the original settlers’ plantings, while a stone pine (Pinus pinea) is the focus in an area she calls Tuscany. The success of these, and indeed the entire garden, is a tribute to Elizabeth’s perceptive eye and her extensive plant knowledge. “I’m now at the point where I’m taking out rather than adding. I love the hedges I’ve planted — pyracantha and escallonia — but for different reasons, I’ve had to remove them. The pyracantha was so successful that it grew to a huge, wide hedge; the berries were beautiful but with its wicked thorns, I couldn’t get anyone to help prune it. The escallonia hedge doesn’t like the shade of the oak trees and is not thriving so that’s about to be replaced,” she says. “I’m also trying to adapt all the new plantings to the continuing dryness; I’ve never experienced a drought like this one. Contrary to popular opinion we do have hot summers and it can snow two or three times in winter. But spring and autumn are magical. “Sitting under a vine-clad pergola, holding a glass of cool Orange region wine, admiring the view to Mount Can s, it’s hard to imagine the need for a holiday in Tuscany.”
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BE AU T I F U L COU N T RY K I TCH ENS
TAKE INSPIRATION FROM THESE KITCHENS ON HOW TO ADD HEART TO THE HUB OF YOUR HOME. WORDS K ATE BA R BER
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K ITCHEN DECOR ATING
Central focus
PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON
When photographer Marnie Hawson is asked what she loves about the kitchen she renovated with her husband Ryan in their home in Riddells Creek, Central Victoria, her definitive answer is the AGA. “Everything is focused around it,� she says. From the brass spoons hanging from a timber hook board, to the second-hand brass tapware and the curtains used instead of doors, the kitchen seems to be an ode to it. The light is from Devol Kitchens, the splashback is VJ boards painted in Ecolour Antique White USA and the rug is from Armadillo & Co. >
“I would have lost my head without this space to store food and bits and pieces.�
K ITCHEN DECOR ATING
PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN STYLING TESS NEWMAN-MORRIS
Pantry heaven
The walk-in pantry in this home in Wensleydale, Victoria, hides a fridge, microwave and coffee machine.“I would have lost my head without this space to store food and bits and pieces,” says owner Fran Derham. The kitchen has leather items, such as pendants from Lighting Collective, Slope chairs from West Elm and handles from Made Measure. The Colo Knife Rack by The Society Inc sits on Cotto tiles from Eco Outdoor above the Dualit toaster and Falcon oven. Lisa Buxton Interiors, lisabuxton.com; Byrne Architects, byrne architects.com.au For accommodation details, visit thewensley.com >
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Gifts from the past
When Sharon Randall heard the kitchen at her previous property was being replaced she bought it, island and all, for the 1859 building in Taradale, Victoria, that she lives in with her husband Ron Witherow. “This part of Rose Villa will eventually be rebuilt so we didn’t want to spend a fortune on a new kitchen,” she says. “We wanted a cosy, country kitchen feel that would complement my existing furniture.” The pressed metal splashback is new, the island benchtop is marble and the oven is a Belling. The walls and ceiling are painted Dulux USA White. Other items are mostly antique or vintage. Luke Ward Restoration and Design, 0413 275 182.
K ITCHEN DECOR ATING
Different strokes
PHOTOGRAPHY MARNIE HAWSON, KARA ROSENLUND STYLING LYNDA GARDENER, BELLE HEMMING
This 1910 Queenslander in Bundaberg had lurid walls and uneven flooring when Sandy and Tim Palmer bought it but, as a decorative painter, Sandy knew how to fix it. “I’ve always loved painted floors so we sprayed it and then left it to cure for six weeks,” she says. The floor is painted in Berger Jet Dry AquaTread in Silver Tassel, the cabinets are in Jolie Pure White paint, from Paint Me White, and the walls are in Dulux Super Hide Lexicon Quarter. The table was a caravan park find and the scales are from the Antique Emporium in Devonport, Tasmania. For accommodation details, visit goodwinrest.com.au >
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Old and new
Nestled beside an 1880s cottage in the new part of the house, this kitchen blends the contemporary styling of a Gubi Ronde pendant light from Cult Design with vintage black chairs. “We wanted to keep the sense of old-world country but with some modernity,” says owner Jenny Paul of the home she shares in Milton, NSW, with her partner Allan. The cane chair is from Lincoln Brooks and the stove is Ilve. Architect Jim O’Brien, viewthru.com.au; cabinetmaker David Gunn, 0410 446 871; interior designer Christina Prescott, christinaprescottdesign.com For accommodation details, visit oldschoolhousemilton.com.au
K ITCHEN DECOR ATING
Pop of colour
PHOTOGRAPHY BRIGID ARNOTT, MARK ROPER STYLING VANESSA COLYER TAY, LYNDA GARDENER, BELLE HEMMING
Fortune often favours the bold. An Esse cooker in Powder Blue takes centre stage in this kitchen that belongs to Janae and Chris Paquin-Bowden, flower farmers in Lyonville, Victoria. “Our house features shades of blues and greens and we wanted something that would fit into that colour scheme,” says Janae. Apart from the kitchen cabinets, which are in Laminex and made by Central Kitchens, most items are vintage or repurposed. The benchtop is recycled bowling-alley flooring from The Salvage Yard in Castlemaine, the racks are from an old wardrobe and the shelves are antique. Central Kitchens, centralkitchens.com.au >
“Our house features shades of blues and greens and we wanted something that would fit into that colour scheme.” JULY 2020 COU NTRY ST Y LE 77
DECOR ATING K ITCHEN
Rustic touches
PHOTOGRAPHY BRIGID ARNOTT, MARNIE HAWSON STYLING HANNAH BRADY, LYNDA GARDENER, BELLE HEMMING
The owners of this home on the South Coast of NSW, Leah Atkins and David Gleeson, wanted rough-hewn edges in the kitchen. “We didn’t want it to be too polished,” says Leah. To achieve this, David, a builder, left the drawer fronts he made from salvaged Oregon unsanded. The water fountain from Fossil Vintage dispenses filtered drinking water straight from the water tank. David also made the cabinetry and poured the concrete kitchen island. The baskets are from Haven & Space, the light came from an old factory, the panels are Easycraft and the joinery is by Dezzine Kitchens. dezzine.com.au
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Create a farmhouse look with items such as an AGA cooker and old-fashioned kettle.
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IN THE DETAILS
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ADD STYLE TO YOUR KITCHEN WITH THESE PRACTICAL PIECES.
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PRODUCED BY NATALIE JOHNSON
1 Dickens brush, $9.99, from Tara Dennis Store. 2 The Laundress dish detergent, $27.95, from Saison. 3 Thin No.2 plate, $14.95, from Sands Made. 4 Curve No.3 bowl, $24.95, from Sands Made. 5 Risatorp basket, $14.99, from Ikea. 6 Tina Frey milking stool, $724, from Oliver Thom. 7 INAX Terrarossa tiles, POA, from Artedomus. 8 Yamazaki Tosca basket, $59, from Leo & Bella. 9 Loveramics butter dish, $69, from Father Rabbit. 10 Corinne bread box, $49.95, from Provincial Home Living. 11 Robert Gordon ceramic teapot, $49, from Paper Plane. 12 Zena travertine, POA, from Artedomus. 13 Compass dish rack, $225, from The Society Inc. 14 Smeg kettle, $209, from Harvey Norman. 15 Oyoy Stringa dishcloth, $20 for set of 2, from Designstuff. 16 Perrin & Rowe Phoenician kitchen tap, from $775, from The English Tapware Company.
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WIPE AND GO Select kitchen blinds that are easy to clean. “PVC-based products, such as our waterproof prints, PVC venetians or PVC shutters, are a great way of having elegance, but keeping the functionality of the kitchen,” says Matthew Walsh of Blinds Online. blindsonline.com.au
DECOR ATING HEATING
BY THE FIRE
IS THERE ANYTHING WARMER — OR MORE INVITING — THAN A ROARING OPEN FIRE IN WINTER? WORDS LAUR A BA R RY PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON ST YLING BELLE HEMMING A ND LY NDA GA R DENER
FROM LEFT Rustic wood storage from Le Forge; Escea’s gas heaters give off a cosy glow; the Scandia Helix wood heater has a sleek, modern look. FACING PAGE The Euro Fireplaces wood heater makes clever use of corner space.
MANY PEOPLE OFTEN confuse ‘fireplace’
with ‘wood heater’ but the two are quite different. A fireplace is built into the structure of the home — complete with chimney and mantelpiece — while a wood heater is simply a standalone appliance with a flue. A true fireplace is an absolute necessity when it comes to completing your country home, both for its aesthetic influence and practicality. It creates a visual focall point within a room, and a mantel often provides the perfect place to arrange candles, flowers, art and family photos. On chilly days, an open fireplace creates a warm and welcoming ambiance for both familly and friends, and it’s an efficient wa ay to heat your home and warm your heart. Sadly, a fireplace isn’t suitable or possible in every home, but there are excellent alternatives.
Restoration Restoring a fireplace is a great thing to do. This often involves unblocking the flue system and should always be carried out by a professional who can identify faults in the existing fireplace and chimney system, such as moisture damage, cracks or holes. The chimney should also be emptied of built-up soot and creosote. Have your fireplace inspected annually before lighting up in winter. Visually, bringing it back to its former glory usually requires a fresh hearth, grate, and a coat of paint. One thing to consider, says Lauren Li, creative director at Sisalla Interior Design, is if the mantel is original to the building. “A mantel from another historical era can look out of proportion and clash with the existing interior details.” If the mantel isn’t original, Lauren suggests researching the type that’s typical of your house’s era to see if it would make a good fit. If not, consider a contemporary design.
Going gas Alex Hodge, lead designer at Escea, says that an indoor gas heater is an excellent substitute for a traditional open fireplace, as many modern ones are made to look just like an open fire. “A modern gas fireplace looks good,
runs efficiently, is easy to maintain and kicks out plenty of heat,” says Alex. A good installer is important, though; hire a certified gas fitter to do the job. “With its compact dimensions, Escea’s DF700 gas fireplace ($4499) is perfect for replacing old wood fires. Its clean lines and large glass viewing area modernise country living rooms, kicking out 5.9kW of beautiful warmth, with a 4.9-star energy rating,” says Alex.
Wood burners Scott Randall, Scandia’s marketing and communications manager, says a standalone wood heater can be a good option if a traditional fireplace isn’t possible in your home. “The Scandia Helix ($1799) has elegant contours and subtle lines, perfect for a contemporary country home,” he says. “The Scandia Supremacy 300 ($2599) is a powerful yet sophisticated unit capable of heating large open-plan homes. The quality of heat generated by a wood fire is indisputable and the fact that it is the most affordable form of heating makes it a very compelling financial decision.”
Electric They may lack the ambience or radiant heat of a fireplace, but electric heaters can be cost effective and won’t impede your home’s visual scheme. Split system, reverse cycle air-conditioners are a great option for both small and large spaces, and won’t cost the Earth to run.
OPEN FIREPLACE Pros: Offers both physical and visual warmth, and can be cost-effective. Cons: Requires annual maintenance and cleaning, and you’ll have to source, split and store wood for burning.
WOOD HEATER Pros: Projects plenty of warmth into the home at an affordable price point and creates a cosy atmosphere. Cons: Requires regular cleaning and you risk embers spitting from the fire to your floor; plus you’ll have to source, store and split wood to burn.
GAS HEATER Pros: Provides instant heat at the touch of a button, and the surrounding walls stay cool even during heating, so you can have a TV directly above it, or put storage in the walls around it. Cons: Some gas heaters struggle to heat large areas as well as wood heaters or electric options.
ELECTRIC HEATING Pros: An effective, cost-efficient and eco-friendly solution for your home. Cons: This can lack the ambience and aesthetic value offered by wood heaters and open fireplaces. HOW TO LIGHT YOUR FIRE Photographer Marnie Hawson suggests using rechargeable plasma/arc lighters. They generate a tiny electrical arc between two ceramic electrodes, and can be used many times before needing a recharge via USB. Do away with pesky matches!
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FOOD COUNTRY CHEF
EMERGING STRONGER WHILE HOSPITALITY WAS IN ENFORCED HIBERNATION, AN AWARD-WINNING WINERY RESTAURANT AT KARRIDALE, WESTERN AUSTRALIA, REIMAGINED ITS MENU. WORDS TR ACEY PLATT RECIPES JOAQU IN DIZ PHOTOGRAPHY M A R NIE H AWSON STYL ING JO CA R MICH A EL
The Glenarty Road lamb rack (see recipe on page 88) is one of the kitchen’s standout dishes. FACING PAGE Ben McDonald was born in Karridale while Sasha grew up in Perth. The husband and wife team have built a flourishing — and award-winning — business. Their six-year-old dog Pepper is never far from the action.
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FOOD COUNTRY CHEF
WHEN THE OWNERS OF Glenarty Road learned in April
that they’d been named Margaret River’s Cellar Door with Best Food by Gourmet Traveller Wine, they were thrilled, and crestfallen. Usually, the phone would ring off the hook after such an award, but the tables in the machinery shed-turned-restaurant were empty due to COVID-19. Glenarty Road has since been able to reopen, and in the meantime generated an income with its winemaking business and sales of their grass-fed Glenarty Lamb, reared on the picturesque 100-hectare property at Karridale, 90 kilometres south of Busselton in WA. Located on loamy, undulating hills around the Blackwood River, the vineyard was planted by Ben McDonald by hand when he was just 19. “To be honest I was pretty rubbish at making wine,” Ben, now 41, says of his early attempts. But when Sasha — an eager young winemaker from Perth — turned up on his doorstep looking to buy grapes, both his viticulture and romantic prospects improved. Today, the couple have two wine labels: an entry-level brand called Kerfuffle and Glenarty Road, produced from the vineyard’s premium blocks. Argentinian chef Joaquin Diz, who worked at the acclaimed Brae in Birregurra, Victoria, has been kept busy in the kitchen, too. “We used [lockdown] for ideation and creating an even more sustainable menu and overall kitchen philosophy,” explains 31-year-old Sasha. In some ways, the flexible food philosophy they adopted for the restaurant — which opened in July 2017 and bases its menu on what is in season in the garden or growing on over 100 varieties of fruit and nut trees — helped them negotiate the recent situation. “The menu was always a reflection of what we grow and what’s available,” says Sasha. The owners are committed to sustainability, with biocontrols to combat pests and four-legged lawnmowers (sheep) to control weeds. During summer, diners can even feast on the ‘carpark corn’ that has been planted as a windbreak. “Everything we plant has to have equal parts form and function,” Ben says. “We grow coffee, rosemary, bay leaves, green tea and thyme that make good hedges and are usable.” “This downtime has allowed us a moment to reflect and push reset on the farm with plans to rework gardens and build an even more sustainable system,” explains Sasha. “Watch this space!” > Glenarty Road, 70 Glenarty Road, Karridale, WA, 0475 085 305. For more information, visit glenartyroad.com.au
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Beetroot hummus (see recipe on page 89). It is served here with some romesco (see recipe on page 87) Rustic bowl from Bellissimo Bower. FACING PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT Glenarty Road’s capacity is growing as Ben adds new tables; Beef & red pepper empanadas (see recipe on page 88); chef Joaquin Diz works with an outdoor wood-fired grill, based on an Argentinian brasero.
FOOD COUNTRY CHEF
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The restaurant’s Woodfired Romanesco cauliflower with tahini (see recipe on page 89); the vineyard’s two labels are made off site using facilities at McHenry Hohnen; sheep do the mowing as part of Glenarty Road’s sustainable approach; working dogs Pepper, six, and Bob, 12; “We want people to feel like they’re just coming to lunch at a family member’s house,” says Ben. FACING PAGE BBQ Bussleton octopus with romesco (see recipe below).
BBQ BUSSELTON OCTOPUS WITH ROMESCO Serves 4
1–1.5kg octopus 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 brown onions, finely diced 4 carrots, peeled, finely diced 5 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tablespoon peppercorns 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 2 bay leaves 3 cups (750ml) dry white wine 4 baby cos lettuce, quartered lengthways
ROMESCO
4 red capsicums 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 brown onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1/3 cup blanched almonds
Wash octopus well. Heat oil in a large, deep (5-litre capacity) saucepan over a medium heat. Cook onion, carrot and garlic, stirring, for 8 minutes or until softened. Add peppercorns, coriander seeds and bay leaves, and stir until combined. Add wine and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until wine is reduced by half. Add 3.5 litres of water and season well with salt. Bring mixture to boil and slowly submerge octopus into water. Reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Remove pan from heat and set aside for 15 minutes until octopus is just tender. Using tongs, transfer octopus to a tray. When cool enough, rub off skin. Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan over a high heat. Cook octopus for 3 minutes each side or until charred. Set aside. To make romesco, char capsicums
over a flame for 10 minutes or until all sides are charred and blistered. Place into a plastic bag and set aside to cool (this makes it easier to remove skins). Peel skins from capsicums and cut into strips, discarding seeds and pulp. Heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook tomatoes, onion and garlic, stirring, for 8 minutes or until softened. Add vinegar and simmer for 5 minutes or until reduced by half. Add capsicum and stir until combined. Cook for 10 minutes over a low heat. Stir in almonds and remove from heat. Cool. Transfer mixture to a food processor and process until a smooth sauce forms. Season. Reheat barbecue grill or chargrill pan over a high heat and cook lettuce for 1–2 minutes each side. Place onto serving plates. Cut octopus into pieces and place over lettuce. Top with romesco to serve. >
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FOOD COUNTRY CHEF
GLENARTY ROAD LAMB RACK Serves 4
2 x 600g Frenched lamb racks 1 bunch baby beetroots, stalks and leaves intact 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 lemon, rind finely grated 1 bunch cavolo nero
Remove racks from fridge 45 minutes before cooking to bring to room temperature. Wrap beetroot stalks and leaves with foil. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to boil. Hang beetroot bulbs in water, keeping stalks and leaves above water level. Cook for 15 minutes or until bulbs are tender. Remove from pan and discard foil. Set aside. Heat a barbecue hotplate over a medium heat. Cook lamb racks for 5 minutes each side or until golden and crisp. Continue to cook, turning often, until cooked to your liking. Transfer to a tray and season with salt. Cover and set aside to rest. Cook cavolo nero, turning, for 2 minutes or until just wilted. Cut beetroot bulbs in half (stalks and
Ben and Sasha’s farm has been home to Ben’s family for five generations. They have a kitchen garden plan for the year based on what and how much they need, with any excess preserved or pickled. “If we need to buy protein or vegies, we try and get it as close to the source as we can,” Sasha explains. FACING PAGE Sheep keep the grass under control, while Pepper and Bob keep an eye on them.
leaves still attached) and cook for 1–2 minutes or until slightly wilted. Toss bulbs with oil and lemon rind. Season. Cut lamb racks into cutlets and place on serving plates. Serve with beets and cavolo nero.
BEEF & RED PEPPER EMPANADAS Makes 8–10
4 cups plain flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup olive oil 2 eggs, lightly whisked chimichurri sauce, to serve
FILLING
1 tablespoon olive oil 500g beef mince 6 green shallots, thinly sliced 5 garlic cloves, crushed ¾ cup pitted green olives 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons salt
Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Combine oil and ¾ cup hot water in a jug. Add to flour mixture and stir until
combined and a dough forms. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth. Place in a bowl and set aside to rest for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, to make filling, heat oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Cook mince, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 10 minutes or until browned. Add shallots and garlic and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until softened. Stir in olives, paprika, cumin and salt and cook for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until cool. Preheat oven to 180˚C. Line 2 baking trays with baking paper. Cut dough in half. Working with 1 half at a time, roll out between 2 sheets of baking paper until 3mm thick. Using a pastry cutter, cut 12cm rounds from dough. Spoon ¼ cup of mince mixture into centre of each pastry round. Fold pastry in half and press edges together with a fork to seal. Brush with egg and place onto prepared baking trays. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden and cooked through. Serve with chimichurri.
BEETROOT HUMMUS Serves 4-6
2½ cups dried chickpeas 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 lemons, rind finely grated, juiced ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 500g beetroot bulbs, trimmed 100g feta, crumbled fresh herbs, to sprinkle artisan sourdough bread, to serve
Place chickpeas into a large bowl and cover with cold water. Set aside to soak overnight. Drain. Place chickpeas into a saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Place over a high heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until very soft. Drain. Place chickpeas on a clean tea towel and rub to remove skins. Transfer chickpeas to a food processor. Add garlic, lemon rind and lemon juice. Process until roughly chopped. With processor motor running, slowly add oil in a steady stream until mixture is smooth. Season. Preheat oven to 180˚C. Wrap each beetroot bulb in foil and place on a baking tray. Bake for 45 minutes or until soft. Dice beetroot, with skin on,
and add to chickpea mixture. Process until combined, adding more oil if required. Season. Spoon hummus into a serving plate and top with feta and herbs. Serve with sourdough.
WOODFIRED ROMANESCO CAULIFLOWER WITH TAHINI Serves 4
2 eschalots, finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 1 thyme sprig ½ teaspoon black peppercorns 1 whole Romanesco cauliflower*, trimmed, halved 2 tablespoons olive oil fresh herbs, roughly chopped
TAHINI
1½ cups blanched almonds 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1/3 cup grape seed oil ¼ cup tahini
processor motor running, slowly add oil in a steady stream until a smooth mixture forms. Add tahini and process until combined. Season. Preheat oven to 200˚C. Place a large sheet of foil on a bench. Place eschalot, garlic, thyme and peppercorns in the centre. Top with cauliflower. Drizzle with oil and season with salt. Wrap cauliflower in foil and place on a baking tray. Bake for 15–20 minutes or until tender. Remove foil. Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan over a high heat. Cook cauliflower, turning, until crispy. Spoon tahini onto a plate. Top with cauliflower and sprinkle with herbs to serve. * Romanesco cauliflower is a green heirloom cauliflower available at some specialist greengrocers. Substitute regular white cauliflower.
To make tahini, place almonds into a bowl and cover with 4 cups water. Cover and set aside overnight. Strain liquid and place almonds into a food processor. Add garlic and 1/3 cup water. Process until finely chopped. With
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FOOD BA K ING
T E A A N D C O M PA N Y NOW THAT WE CAN HAVE FRIENDS OVER ONCE MORE, WHAT BETTER WAY TO WELCOME THEM THAN WITH HOMEMADE TREATS? RECIPES JO BA R R ETT, J ULI A BUSUTTIL NISHIMUR A, STEV E CUMPER,
Italian potato doughnuts (recipe page 93).
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PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN, BRETT STEVENS STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK, STEVE PEARCE FOOD PREPARATION AND RECIPE TESTING DIXIE ELLIOTT, SARAH WATSON
JOHN EVA NS, SONI A GR EIG, M ATT STONE
Neopolitan ricotta & chocolate torta (recipe page 93).
FOOD BA K ING
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK
Apple & almond pithivier with wattle-seed cream (recipe opposite).
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APPLE & ALMOND PITHIVIER WITH WATTLE-SEED CREAM Serves 4
¾ cup white wine 2 cinnamon sticks 4 whole cloves 1¼ cups caster sugar 2 small Granny Smith apples, peeled 125g butter, softened 3 eggs 1¼ cups almond meal 2 teaspoons plain flour 375g sheet frozen ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry, thawed extra 1 egg, whisked
WATTLE-SEED CREAM
250g crème fraîche 1 tablespoon ground wattle seed*
Place wine, cinnamon sticks, cloves, ¾ cup of sugar and 1½ cups water in a saucepan. Stir over a medium heat until sugar dissolves and mixture boils. Simmer for 5 minutes or until syrup thickens slightly. Add apples and simmer for 5–6 minutes or until they begin to soften. Remove from heat. Cover pan and set aside to cool. Using a slotted spoon, remove apples from syrup. Cut into quarters, then core and cut into 5mm-thick slices. Meanwhile, using an electric mixer, beat butter and remaining sugar in a bowl until pale and creamy. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition until well combined. Add almond meal and flour, and stir until combined. Transfer to an airtight container and place in refrigerator for 1 hour or until firm. Spoon almond mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 1cm plain nozzle. Preheat oven to 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper. Cut two 19cm discs from pastry. Place 1 disc on prepared tray. Leaving a 2cm border, pipe almond mixture in a circular pattern over pastry disc until completely covered. Arrange apple slices, slightly overlapping, over almond mixture. Using a small, sharp knife, gently score a large pinwheel pattern into remaining pastry disc, taking care not to cut all the way through. Brush edge of pastry on tray with egg and cover
with scored pastry disc. Gently press pastry to remove any air bubbles, then lightly press edge to seal. Brush top of scored pastry with egg. Bake for 25–30 minutes or until golden and crisp. To make wattle-seed cream, place crème fraîche in a bowl and sprinkle with wattle seed. Serve with pithivier. *Available at specialty food outlets and delicatessens.
ITALIAN POTATO DOUGHNUTS Makes 8
1 (about 200g) waxy potato (such as Dutch Cream, Desiree or Bintje), peeled, quartered 100ml full-cream milk 500g 00 plain flour* 2 teaspoons instant dried yeast ⅓ cup caster sugar 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 vanilla bean, split lengthways, seeds scraped 80g unsalted butter, softened 1 lemon, rind finely grated 1 orange, rind finely grated vegetable oil, for deep-frying
CINNAMON SUGAR
200g caster sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
Cook potato in a small saucepan of boiling water for 5–7 minutes or until tender. Drain. Transfer to a bowl. Mash with a fork until smooth. Cool slightly. Meanwhile, place milk in a small saucepan over a low heat until warm. Combine flour, yeast and caster sugar in bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add warm milk, warm mashed potato, egg, vanilla seeds, butter, lemon rind and orange rind and mix on a low speed until combined. Increase speed to medium and knead for 5 minutes or until dough is smooth and elastic. Lightly grease a large, clean bowl. Transfer dough to bowl and cover with a tea towel. Set aside in a warm, draught-free place for 1 hour or until doubled in size. (Alternatively, place dough in refrigerator overnight to rise. Return to room temperature before moving on to next step.) Using your hands or a pastry scraper, gently turn dough onto a floured work
surface and roll out until 2cm thick. Using a 9cm-round doughnut cutter, cut out 8 doughnuts. Cover with a tea towel and leave for 45 minutes or until risen. Meanwhile, to make cinnamon sugar, combine caster sugar and cinnamon on a baking tray. Set aside. Add enough vegetable oil to a large saucepan to reach a depth of 10cm. Heat to 180°C over a medium-high heat (oil is ready when a cube of bread turns golden brown in 15 seconds). Cook doughnuts in batches for 3–4 minutes, turning halfway through, or until golden. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towel to drain. Place doughnuts in cinnamon sugar and turn to coat. NOTE These doughnuts are best eaten on the day they’re made. Doughnut cutters are available at kitchenware stores and online. Alternatively, use 2 different-sized round cutters. *Available at most supermarkets.
NEAPOLITAN RICOTTA & CHOCOLATE TORTA Serves 12
200g dried figs, sliced ⅓ cup Marsala olive oil spray 2 tablespoons caster sugar 8 eggs 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup dark cocoa 1 teaspoon vanilla essence 800g ricotta 100g dark chocolate bits 100g flaked almonds, toasted extra 2 teaspoons dark cocoa 2 teaspoons icing sugar thick cream, to serve (optional)
Combine figs and Marsala in a small bowl. Cover and set aside for 1 hour to macerate. Drain. Preheat oven to 160˚C. Grease a 20cm-round springform pan, then line base and sides with baking paper. Spray baking paper with olive oil spray and lightly dust with caster sugar. Place eggs, brown sugar, cocoa and vanilla essence in a food processor, and process until combined. Add ricotta and process until smooth and well combined. Transfer ricotta mixture to a bowl. Stir through figs, chocolate bits and flaked almonds. Pour into >
FOOD BA K ING
prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake for 1 hour or until just firm to touch. Place pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes to cool. Remove torta from pan and transfer to a plate to cool. Combine extra cocoa and icing sugar. Dust torta with cocoa mixture and serve with thick cream, if desired.
1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 7 cups almond meal 4 teaspoons finely grated ginger 2 tablespoons milk
MANDARIN & MASCARPONE CAKE
2 oranges 3 cups caster sugar
Serves up to 12
960g small mandarins, unpeeled 8 large eggs 2 cups caster sugar 200g butter, melted, cooled 2 cups plain flour
MASCARPONE CREAM 500g mascarpone 100g icing sugar, sifted
CANDIED ORANGES
LEMON CURD
2 lemons, finely grated 1 cup lemon juice 1 cup caster sugar 4 large eggs 230g butter, diced, unsalted
Place 480g mandarins in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to boil, then simmer for 20–30 minutes or until mandarins are soft. Drain and cool. Chop mandarins and remove seeds. Process, with peel, in a food processor until smooth. (You will need 1 cup of mandarin puree for this recipe.) Preheat oven to 160°C. Grease a 22cm-round springform pan, then line base and sides with baking paper. Using an electric mixer, whisk 4 eggs and 1 cup caster sugar for 4 minutes or until thick and pale. Add 100g melted butter and 1 cup mandarin puree, and gently fold until combined. Sift 1 cup flour, ½ teaspoon baking powder and ¼ teaspoon salt over mandarin mixture. Add 3½ cups almond meal, 2 teaspoons ginger and 1 tablespoon milk, and gently stir until combined. Spoon into prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake for 1 hour or until light golden and a skewer inserted into centre comes out clean. Stand in pan for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Repeat cake recipe to make a second mandarin cake. To make mascarpone cream, whisk mascarpone and icing sugar mixture until combined. To make candied oranges, preheat oven to 150°C. Thinly slice oranges. Arrange orange slices over base of a large baking dish. Stir caster sugar and 3 cups water in a saucepan over a medium heat until sugar dissolves. Bring to boil. Pour sugar syrup over orange in baking dish. Cover surface of syrup with baking paper. Bake for 1 hour or until orange slices are translucent. Cool. To make lemon curd, whisk lemon rind, lemon juice, caster sugar and eggs in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan half-filled with simmering water (ensure bowl doesn’t touch water) for 10–15 minutes or until thick. Remove bowl from heat. Whisk in butter, a few cubes at a time, until incorporated. Cool. Store in fridge. Place 1 cake on a cake stand. Top with mascarpone cream and remaining cake. Arrange candied oranges over cake. Cut into slices and serve with lemon curd.
PHOTOGRAPHY NIC GOSSAGE, MARK ROPER STYLING LEE BLAYLOCK, LISA BURDEN
Mandarin & mascarpone cake (recipe below).
LEMON MYRTLE PARFAIT WITH BUTTER CRUMBLE Serves 4
1 cup caster sugar 8 egg yolks 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 cup crème fraîche 1 tablespoon vanilla essence 1 teaspoon ground lemon myrtle, plus extra to dust* ⅔ cup pure cream 250g small strawberries, sliced
BUTTER CRUMBLE 75g butter ½ cup plain flour ½ cup almond meal ¼ cup brown sugar pinch of salt
Grease a 7cm deep, 20cm x 10cm loaf pan. Line base and 2 opposite
sides with baking paper, allowing it to overhang. Place sugar, egg yolks and lemon juice in a large heatproof bowl and set over a saucepan half-filled with simmering water (make sure bowl doesn’t touch water). Whisk for 5 minutes or until thick and fluffy. Remove from heat and whisk for a further 2 minutes or until mixture begins to cool. Stir in crème fraîche, vanilla essence and lemon myrtle. Using a balloon whisk, whisk cream in a bowl until soft peaks form. Add cream to crème fraîche mixture and gently fold until just combined. Pour mixture into prepared pan and smooth surface. Place in freezer overnight. To make butter crumble, preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray
with baking paper. Place butter and flour in a food processor and process until mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add almond meal, brown sugar and salt, and pulse until combined. Spread mixture over prepared tray and bake for 12–15 minutes or until golden and cooked. Set aside to cool completely. Turn parfait onto a chopping board lined with baking paper and cut into 2cm-thick slices. Place parfait on plates, top with strawberries, spoon butter crumble next to it and dust with extra lemon myrtle to serve. NOTE Leftover butter crumble can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. *Available at specialt spice outlets and delicatessens.
Lemon myrtle parfait with butter crumble (recipe above).
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FOOD HEIR LOOM BELOW Florence Kleinschafer (nee O’Brien) was a culinary whizz who could effortlessly whip up puddings, cakes and whole tables of food.
smart cookie
FROM DISMANTLING TYPEWRITERS TO CREATING TIERED CAKES, THERE WAS NOTHING THIS MOTHER COULDN’T DO. WORDS TRACEY PLATT PHOTOGRAPHY AND ST YLING CHINA SQUIRREL
WHEN YOU CAN completely dismantle a manual typewriter
to clean it, then put it back together again, it’s safe to say you can turn your hand to almost anything. This is exactly what Florence Kleinschafer did while employed as an office worker at J & A Brown, a coal-mining company in Newcastle. “This is just one of the funny stories our aunts told us about her,” says her daughter Caroline Sheen, 85, of East Maitland in the Lower Hunter Valley region of NSW. “Flo, as she was known, was a very gifted woman … truly she could create anything from anything. She sewed all our clothes, made hats and renovated furniture, as well as all the household chores needed to keep our family healthy and on the move.” Born in Sydney in October 1901, Flo was the eldest of five daughters for Patrick Thomas O’Brien and Caroline Hampton of Forbes. Patrick was a blacksmith, an occupation that saw the family move to many different places before settling in Maitland, where he set up his own coach-building business in Bulwer Street, just after World War I. In November 1927, Flo married Victor Kleinschafer, whose German family had moved from Gunnedah to Telarah, near Maitland. Even though her father was often away searching for work during the Depression years, Caroline recalls a happy
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childhood, with a loving and caring mother who doted on her three daughters and two sons. “We all loved cooking days,” she says. “Afgan biscuits were an absolute treat. Rich and chocolatey with icing, and topped with half a walnut … they didn’t last long!” Making the annual Christmas cake was another day the kids always looked forward to. It was mixed by hand in a large bowl that had been a washbasin in a previous life. “We stood around the table waiting for the egg beaters and the basin to clean out with a spoon — she always left a bit extra — not to mention the coins and trinkets in the Christmas pudding, wrapped in calico and boiled in the copper for hours.” One of Flo’s most memorable culinary accomplishments was the feast she prepared for Caroline and her twin brother Peter’s joint 21st birthday. “There was a table of food, and I still have a picture of the magnificent tiered cake she made us, which was all the fashion at the time.” While Flo passed away 56 years ago, a week after Caroline gave birth to her first child, her recipes remain a cherished family heirloom. “I still have her old recipe book, even though it’s falling to pieces now, with her handwritten recipes and [the] pages where I wrote in it as a child,” says Caroline.
AFGHAN BISCUITS Makes 25
1¼ cups plain flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/3 cup cocoa 200g butter, softened ¾ cup icing sugar mixture 2 cups cornflakes 25 walnut halves
ICING
FOOD PREPARATION AND RECIPE TESTING CHINA SQUIRREL
1½ cups icing sugar mixture 2 tablespoons cocoa 1 teaspoon soft butter 2 tablespoons boiling water
Preheat oven to 180˚C. Line 3 large baking trays with baking paper. Sift flour, baking powder and cocoa together into a large bowl and set aside. Using an electric mixer, beat butter and icing sugar until pale and creamy. Add flour mixture and beat until combined. Stir in cornflakes, mixing until well combined. Using your hands, roll tablespoonfuls of biscuit mixture into balls. Place 3cm apart onto prepared trays. Using palm of your hand, gently flatten each ball. Bake, rotating trays halfway through cooking, for 18 minutes or until light golden. Cool on trays. To make icing, sift icing sugar and cocoa into a bowl. Add butter, then gradually stir in enough boiling water until mixture is thick and glossy. Using a warm knife (dip a butter knife in hot water, then dry), spread a heaped teaspoonful of icing on top of each biscuit. Top each with a walnut half. Store in an airtight container.
SHARE YOUR FAMILY FAVOURITES Do you have a recipe that has been passed down through generations? Send it to us, the story behind it and a copy of a photograph of the relative who passed it on. Remember to include a telephone number. Email austcountrystyle@bauer-media.com. au or send a letter to Heirloom Recipe, Country Style, PO Box 4088, Sydney NSW, 1028.
FOOD STEV E CUMPER
bring the beet back
CHOCOLATE AND BEETROOT TOGETHER? THESE DAYS, SAYS STEVE CUMPER, ANYTHING GOES. PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW ST YLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE
APPARENTLY, DEATH AND TAXES are
the only sure things in this life, but I’d add another one: food intolerances. When it comes to ordering food, it seems hardly a day goes by without someone presenting with a new allergy or aversion. I don’t want to trivialise the sufferings of those inflicted with debilitating illnesses, but it’s curious to me that while we are encouraged to embrace tolerance in our daily lives, evidence suggests we are becoming more intolerant when it comes to food. I’ll leave it to those more informed than I to deliberate the reasons as to why this is happening but I think we can all agree our diets are in a time of rapid change. Who would have imagined 20 years ago vegetarianism would be considered mainstream and meat alternatives would sit beside real meat in the supermarket? In my day, when a waiter asked what a vegetarian diner could order, a silence descended on the kitchen. The chef began to tremble, his veins pulsing on his forehead and his cheeks turning a shade of red before detonating into a fireball of indignation. And this was just at the school canteen! Thankfully, chefs now welcome these customers. In fact, these days it would be a challenge to find a menu without vegetarian, gluten-free or vegan options. It would also be a brave operator that shuns their patronage now that social media makes it possible for customers to vent their as far as Iceland if they want to.
Chefs are also quite clever with a calculator so perhaps another reason vegetarian/vegan menu items are widely available now is not simply due to customer demand but also as a result of meat prices becoming prohibitively high. Vegie dishes are usually cheaper to make so it means chefs can offer diners an affordable option while still earning a decent margin. Whatever the reason, it’s great to see vegetables taking centrestage and being revered for their provenance and value. One thing our evolving attitudes to food and diet has contributed is an increased confidence when it comes taking risks and experimentation. You can see this reflected in TV cooking shows where food combinations that were once unheard of are concocted regularly. Though some experiments are best left to the imagination, sometimes they manage to hit all the moving targets. Take this cake — it has no eggs, no dairy and pairs chocolate with a most unlikely baking buddy, beetroot! Who would have thought this salad staple would make such a sweet treat? Steve Cumper is a chef and funnyman who lives in Tasmania and dreams of one day owning a fleet of holiday vans called Wicked Cumpers.
VEGAN & GLUTEN-FREE BEETROOT & CHOCOLATE CAKE Serves 8–10
2 cups brown sugar 1 cup vegetable oil ⅔ cup cooked beetroot puree 180g dairy-free chocolate, melted 2 cups almond meal ½ cup carob or cacao powder* ½ cup cornflour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 beetroot, peeled, thinly sliced
ICING
1 cup almond milk 1 teaspoon agar-agar* 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup dairy-free cocoa powder 250g silken tofu
VEGAN CREAM
400g can coconut cream 1 teaspoon agar-agar* 2 tablespoons caster sugar
Preheat oven to 160˚C. Grease and line a 22cm springform cake pan with baking paper. Whisk sugar and oil in a bowl until combined. Stir in beetroot puree and melted chocolate. Add almond meal, carob/cacao, cornflour and baking powder. Gently stir until combined. Pour into cake pan. Bake for 50 minutes or until skewer inserted in centre comes out clean. Cool in pan. Meanwhile, line a large baking tray with baking paper. Spread beetroot slices over prepared tray and lightly spray with oil. Bake in oven with cake for 45 minutes or until crisp. Set aside on tray to cool completely. To make icing, combine almond milk and agar-agar in a small saucepan. Place over a medium heat and bring to boil. Remove from heat. Add sugar, cocoa powder and tofu. Whisk until smooth. Transfer mixture to a bowl and cool. Place cake on a wire rack set over a baking tray. Pour icing over cake, top with beetroot slices and set aside to set. To make vegan cream, combine coconut cream and agar-agar in a small saucepan. Add sugar and stir until well combined. Place over a medium heat and stir until mixture comes to boil. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for 35 minutes or until set. Transfer to a small food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. Serve cake with the c . * Available at health-food stores.
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PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY DAMIAN BENNETT STYLING LIZ KAVANAGH FOOD PREPARATION DIXIE ELLIOTT
FOOD FLAVOURS
f lavours
THESE REGIONAL PRODUCES FOUND WAYS TO KEEP THEIR BUSINESSES AFLOAT DURING THE LOCKDOWN, WITH SOME PLANNING TO CONTINUE THESE NEW AVENUES.
MILLY HILL MEAT
MARGAN WINES AND RESTAURANT With their award-winning restaurant closed but their 0.4-hectare kitchen garden flourishing, owner Lisa Margan didn’t want to see the harvest go to waste. Usually the vegetables from the garden are incorporated into the restaurant’s seasonal menu, but due to lockdown, instead they went into produce boxes that could be collected from the cellar door or delivered in the local Hunter Valley area. It expanded to include homemade pasta and sauces, slow-cooked lamb
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and baked goods. “We have also started a mini growers markets on Saturdays, collaborating with local growers — dairy, honey, olives and oil, eggs, cheese, flowers, fruit and vegetables,” explains Lisa. 1238 Milbrodale Rd, Broke, NSW, (02) 65791317, margan.com.au Please call ahead to check if Margan is still operating the market and selling produce boxes.
THE BLACKBIRD STORE NEWSTEAD Who wouldn’t want a baked cheesecake delivered to their door? If you live near The Blackbird in Victoria’s Newstead, an hour and 40 minutes drive northwest of Melbourne, you can have just that! “Due to COVID-19 we’ve repositioned the business and we are providing fruit and veg boxes, take home meals and essential foods,” explains Gemma Holden who owns the business with her partner Darren Trotter. They opened their cafe, The
Blackbird Newstead in July 2019 but when they could only serve take-away during the lockdown they changed tack, instead delivering housemade sourdough, fruit, vegetable and herb boxes, Allpress coffee beans, heat-up meals, meat, dairy and eggs. 16 Lyons St, Newstead, Vic, 0439 916 795, blackbirdsnewsteadstore.com
LONG TRACK PANTRY You have been able to order Long Track Pantry’s award-winning sauces, jams, chutneys and vinegars online and have them delivered around Australia, but during the pandemic they have really stepped it up. If you live in Canberra, Wagga Wagga, Cootamundra, Yass, Harden, Young, Junee and, of course, Jugiong, NSW, where Long Track Pantry is located, you can have homemade soups, pies, curries, lasagnes, dumplings and whole cakes delivered to you. Riverside Dr, Jugiong, NSW, (02) 6945 4144, longtrackpantry.com.au >
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER, DOM CHERRY
The lamb grown on Peter and Sally Strelitz’s property near Armidale in NSW has won many awards since they began Milly Hill Meat in 2007. It began as a small local business delivering ‘lamb in a box’ in the New England region, but was soon supplying 150 restaurants in South East Queensland and NSW, including chef Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar and Grill as well as Parliament House in Canberra and Sydney. When restaurants had to shut their door, the Strelitzes went back to what they knew and started delivering lamb, beef, pork, chicken, vegetables, honey and eggs to Brisbane, Canberra, Melbourne, Syndey and most of NSW. “I think that even when the restaurants go back we will continue to offer the home delivery and hopefully people will continue to support the concept,” says Sally. (02) 6772 0300, millyhill.com.au
“I think that even when the restaurants go back we will continue to offer the home delivery and hopefully people will continue to support the concept.�
CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Peter and Sally Strelitz of Milly Hill Meat with their children (from left) Olivia, Sam, Zoe and Amber, plus Molly the cavoodle; Minnie; Amber and Minnie working sheep; packing vegie boxes at Margan in the NSW Hunter Valley; produce from the kitchen garden at Margan. FACING PAGE Olivia, Sally and Zoe walk with Molly on their property near Armidale, NSW.
FOOD FLAVOURS
FARM TO PLATE
Laura Dalrymple and Grant Hilliard tackle some big questions in their book, The Ethical Omnivore ($39,99, Murdoch Books). One is ‘Should I eat meat at all?’, which is surprising given they own a butchery called Feather and Bone. It discusses how to be a sustainable meat eater and supports regenerative farming. They believe in nose-to-tail cooking and there are pages of delicious recipes from their retail customers and chefs they supply to. This must-read goes on sale August 4th.
LOVE YOUR WINE
Age your special bottles in the Liebherr built-in dual-zone wine cellar (EWTgb 3583). Holding 83 bottles, it has a double-glazed glass door. liebherr.com
Katie’s orange blossom Moroccan-spiced chicken from The Ethical Omnivore.
MEET THE PRODUCER Daniel Maroulis, cattle breeder and vigneron, East Gresford, NSW Having been involved in farming all his life, there is one thing that Daniel Maroulis knows for sure: you genuinely have to love it. “It can be brutal work, from drought, fire, locusts to rain at the wrong time,” he says. “You really have to love it to put up with the highs and the lows.” Daniel lives at East Gresford on a 95-hectare property on the Allyn River at the foot of the Barrington Tops. He breeds black angus cattle, never overstocking, even in times of great feed. “We don’t want the land to be overworked to encourage natural rejuvenation,” he says. He also has eight hectares under vine, growing chardonnay, verdelho, merlot, pinot noir and shiraz for the wine label he runs with his wife, Jane, called Boydell’s. They have recently opened a cellar door and restaurant — where their beef is served — in nearby Morpeth. “Diversifaction and variety is not only the key to farming, it is also the spice to life” explains Daniel of his decision to run cattle and tend to vines. “It helps that I don’t mind a tasty grass-fed steak and a glass or two of good red wine!” Boydell’s, 2 Green St, Morpeth, NSW, (02) 4933 5862, boydells.com.au
OUT FOR LUNCH
After a forced hiatus from holding events due to COVID-19, Nicole and James Samodol, owners of Rowlee Wines in Orange, NSW, are looking forward to The Vintner’s Table. It will be held on Saturday 24th October during the Orange Wine Festival and will be a long leisurely lunch featuring top local cuisine and Rowlee’s delicious single-vineyard wines. Make sure you try their first sparkling, the 2019 Cuvée by Rowlee. For more information, telephone (02) 6365 3047 or visit rowleewines.com.au
Country Style is published by Bauer Media Pty Limited (ABN 053 273 546), 54 Park Street, Sydney, NSW 2000. The trademark Country Style is the property of Bauer Media Pty Ltd © 2020. All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato, 8 Priddle Street, Warwick Farm, NSW 2170. Distributed by Ovato Retail Distribution Australia. No material may be reproduced in part or in whole without written consent from the copyright holders. Bauer Media Pty Ltd does not accept responsibility for damage to or loss of freelance material submitted for publication. Allow several weeks for acceptance or return. For inquiries regarding subscriptions, call 136 116, Monday–Friday, 8am–6pm AEST, email magshop@ magshop.com.au or mail letters to: Country Style Reply Paid 3508, Sydney, NSW 2001, or subscribe online at magshop.com.au. Standard subscription rate*: Australia $79.99 (one year, 13 issues); NZ A$99.95 (one year, 13 issues); other countries A$189.95 (one year, 13 issues). All overseas subscriptions sent air speed. *Recommended price.
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D I S C OV E R R E G I O N A L AU S T R A L I A’ S BEST K EP T SECR ETS
On sale now
P urcha se your copy online
t o b e del ivere d d i re ct t o you r do or at m a g s h o p .c o m .a u or ava i l a ble at mo s t s up er m a rket s a nd newsa g ent s .
HARVEST TABLE COMPETITION
C H I L D ’ S P L AY FOR MARKET GARDENER LIZZIE BUSCAINO’S CHILDREN, GROWING VEGETABLES IS A WAY OF LIFE, AND SHE BELIEVES IT SHOULD BE FOR ALL KIDS. WORDS KY LIE IMESON PHOTOGRAPHY A BBIE MELLE
Lizzie and Gianluigi Buscaino with their children Georgia and Lukas, and short-haired collie Jimmy. FACING PAGE At Piccolo Farm the couple have a two-hectare market garden where they grow organic vegetables and herbs. During the pandemic the demand for their vegie boxes doubled. See page 100 for more information.
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HARVEST TABLE COMPETITION
FOR EIGHT-YEAR-OLD LUKAS Buscaino and his sister Georgia,
five, growing fresh vegetables — and lots of them — is the norm at their home in Thirlmere, NSW. Their parents, Lizzie and Gianluigi, own Piccolo Farm, a two-hectare market garden where they grow organic vegetables, herbs and edible flowers. “Our kids are involved in gardening, cooking and baking at home but even more so during this time,” explains Lizzie. When she says “during this time” she is of course referring to home schooling during the COVID-19 pandemic. “The change of having the kids at home rather than in school has made a big difference. They have definitely been more involved in garden activities,” she explains. “We like our kids to be independent so we’ll let them sort themselves out for some meals and they are both keen cooks. Lukas has his own garden beds he tends to. Georgia prefers to help me out in the market garden and she does a great job at it.” Growing your own food fosters independence, which is why Lizzie believes encouraging all children, regardless
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of where they live and how old they are, to garden is important. Entering the Country Style Harvest Table competition is a great way to pique their interest. She also suggests — room permitting — giving children their own plot. “Lukas’ garden has a pizza focus and he wants to grow herbs, which he can place on top of pizzas. His garden bed, which he just cleared and revamped for the winter, includes lots of cauliflower, oregano, leeks, parsley, thyme and rainbow chard,” Lizzie says. They are also enjoying a bumper crop of beetroots at the moment. While the vegie patch may not be at its best in winter there are still crops that can be grown and jobs to do, says Lizzie. “They’re helping to clear light crops such as lettuce and feed it to the chickens. Georgia is a champ when it comes to transplanting, in particular leeks. They are keen harvesters and help clean the vegetables afterwards.” A productive way indeed to pass the time between home school lessons. For more information about Piccolo Farm telephone 0422 341 590 or visit piccolofarm.com.au
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The family in the garden; Georgia with beetroots just pulled up from the earth; mother and daughter picking edible flowers; at Piccolo Farm they grow several varieties of beetroots, including yellow and target; Lukas and Jimmy; Georgia helping in the garden; the neat rows of produce. FACING PAGE Georgia off to check out the fennel flowers.
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“Our kids are involved in gardening, cooking and baking at home...�
COMPETITION HARVEST TABLE There are 72 market garden beds at Piccolo Farm near Thirlmere in NSW. FACING PAGE Georgia with different types of beetroots. Lizzie confesses that her kids don’t really like beetroots, with the exception of beetroot hummus (see recipe on page 89). “You can chop up many other winter vegies and dip into it,” explains Lizzie.
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W I N T ER’S BOU N T Y
IT MAY BE COLD OUTSIDE, BUT THERE ARE STILL VEGIES FOR YOUR KIDS TO TEND TO IN THE GARDEN. Children around Australia may be back at school after the pandemic and may not have as much as time to tend to their gardens at home anymore, but there is still produce that needs to be harvested, even if a lot of other plants are dormant. Cauliflower, broccoli, mushrooms, silverbeet and Brussels sprouts can be included in their Harvest Table competition entry. We invite all school-age children from all over Australia to show us what they are growing in their vegie patches. There are two great prizes to be won: 1. $5000 for the Best Class or School Harvest Table. 2. An iPad Air (16GB with wi-fi), valued at $1175, for the Best Student’s Journal on a vegetable garden (their own or their school’s).
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COMPETITION HARVEST TABLE When children are cooking produce they have grown, safety comes first. Fisher & Paykel’s Freestanding Dual Fuel Cooker has a cool touch door as well as twin fans, a handy self-cleaning function and nine different cooking settings. For more information, telephone 1300 650 590 or visit fisherpaykel.com/au
HOW TO ENTER For Best Class or School Harvest Table, send photographs of your Harvest Table with a description of how you created the table in 500 words or less. Please include the name of your school and class, contact name, address and telephone number. For Best Home Harvest Table Journal, send your journal (which includes photographs of your Harvest Table with a description of how you created the table in 500 words or less) with the adult’s and child’s name, address and telephone number. We will be unable to return all journals; photographs become the property of Bauer Media Australia Pty Ltd. Send entries to Country Style, Harvest Table Competition, PO Box 4088, NSW 2000. Entries close on November 2nd. Conditions apply, see bauer-media.com.au/competitions. Commenced February 27th, 2020. Ends 12AM AEST/AEDT on November 2nd, 2020. AU residents 18+. This is a
PHOTOGRAPHY NIC GOSSAGE STYLING KERRIE-ANN JONES
game of skill, not a game of chance. The Promoter is Bauer Media Pty Limited (ABN 18 053 273 546) 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.
HARV TABLEST E IN A SSOC I AT I ON W ITH
H I DDE N T R E A SU R ES
SUPPORT THE SMALL REGIONAL BUSINESSES THAT HAVE BEEN AFFECTED BY THIS YEAR. WORDS A BBY PFA HL
Frankie Say Relax in Geelong, Victoria, features the Jungle vintage wall chart from HK Living. FACING PAGE The store has prints from Warranbrooke; from top left, Manuka Flower, Blush Villa, Vacation, Shiso, Cactus Corner and Villa Garden.
R EGIONAL SHOPPING GUIDE
ACT Timber & Tailor
Wander down fashionable Lonsdale Street in Braddon and, along with crowd-pleasers like Sonoma bakery and Gelato Messina, you’ll discover a wonderful array of independent shops owned by Canberra creatives. Timber & Tailor is one example that’s well worth a look. Packed with beautiful wares by Australian-only artists and makers, it’s the ultimate place to find unique gifts. There’s a range of great books from authors such as Bruce Pascoe, Eleanor Ozich and Kara Rosenlund, plus interesting handmade jewellery and stationery. Ceramicist Milly Dent has been a long-time contributor to the store and jungle-inspired prints by artist Karina Jambrak have just landed and are proving very popular. The curation of lovely things at Timber & Tailor is the clever work of Belinda Burgess and her partner, Jochen Heinzmann, who is a designer. Jochen’s modern timber furniture is one of the feature collections in the store. Shop 67/30 Lonsdale St, Braddon, 0412 610 918, timberandtailor.com
PHOTOGRAPHY ANJIE BLAIR PHOTOGRAPHY
NEW SOUTH WALES Merchant Campbell
In late 2019, Merchant Campbell moved from its original location — or “shoe box”, as owner Margot Shannon wryly recalls — to its freshly renovated premises up the road. The large, new space has plenty of car parking and is fronted by a beautiful solid pergola made from timber salvaged from an old bridge, with ornamental grapes planted at the base. “Before too long they’ll provide a canopy of lovely, dappled shade,” says Margot. Large picture windows face north to bring in optimal light and precious winter
sun, and recycled building materials, plus drought-resistant plantings in the garden, reflect the store’s sustainable ethos. It’s not surprising that this new incarnation of Merchant Campbell has become a destination in itself, bringing countless decorators and daytrippers to historic Yass, keen to peruse unique furniture, textiles and homewares. “We carry products from Bookham, Muttama, Bondi, plus the Grampians and Quandialla, as well as goods we’ve imported directly from India, Thailand, Indonesia, Morocco and Vietnam,” she says. Margot’s buying trips twice a year allow her prices to remain reasonable, as there’s no middleman, and we all benefit from her expert eye for style and quality. “Our focus is always on the ethical, personal and handmade. We like to meet the makers themselves and know they’re being paid fairly, their workroom is safe and has no sweatshop or child labour,” she explains. Margot and her husband Chris live on a sheep property at Bookham where they proudly produce fine merino wool. Of their inspiring business partnership, Margot tells us “Chris is primarily the farmer and I’m primarily the importer and shopkeeper, but our roles overlap. Chris’ more than mine!” Visit the new
This bright and breezy lifestyle store is adored for its modern coastal feel — so much so that its owner, Rebecca Feldman, has expanded twice in the past six years.
store or shop online, and note the handy option to ship gifts directly — they arrive perfectly wrapped! 287 Comur St, Yass, (02) 6226 1240, merchantcampbell.com.au
Edited & Co
If you can possibly tear yourself away from all the fabulous food and wine, drop in on Edited & Co on your next visit to Mudgee. Owner Amanda White is expertly ushering Australian fashion labels, as well as brands from Paris, LA, London and Copenhagen, into this Central West town via her minimally styled store. She’s passionate about helping clients to create a workable wardrobe base with simple essentials, then injecting style with a selection of unique pieces — all of which you can find in her boutique. “Season after season, customers keep coming back to Jac + Jack for their silk and cashmere, Cable for knitwear and coats, Camilla for her eye-catching prints, Viktoria & Woods for incredible tailoring and natural fibres, Camilla and Marc for special occasions and Assembly Label for everyday basics,” says Amanda. You can also shop the complete range online. 28 Church St, Mudgee, (02) 6372 3510, editedandco.com
QUEENSLAND Cooleebah Gifts
The tiny town of Julia Creek in the north-west of Queensland may only have a population of about 500, but that doesn’t stop Cooleebah Gifts from doing a roaring trade. Owners Fiona and Colin Malone say “It’s not >
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uncommon for us to post items all over Australia on a daily basis or to freight large furniture across the state.” Their repurposed furniture and their unique outback-inspired gifts strike a chord with many — be they locals or visiting travellers. Fiona and Colin grew up in the area and when they’re not at the shop, they’re out working their cattle and horses — a passion they share with their two sons, Cody and Clay. Fiona notes it is this outdoor lifestyle and the outback heritage that they draw upon when curating fresh products for the store (keep an eye out for their new outdoor range, including an array of rustic pots and urns). There’s also no shortage of country hospitality, either. “We pride ourselves on not just being a place of business but a warm, friendly environment where people feel welcome to just come and have a chat,” says Fiona. “That’s so important in a rural community, particularly after the prolonged drought and catastrophic flooding early last year”. 45 Burke St, Julia Creek, (07) 4746 7176.
Hampton & Harlow After operating her homewares and furniture store, Hampton & Harlow, in Gympie for two years, Karen Robinson recognised an opportunity to expand into the equine fashion industry. As an avid horse enthusiast and mum of four children, her initial focus was on creating stain-resistant, tough jodhpurs for kids that could withstand hours of riding at pony club, and all the rough-and-tumble play that goes along with it. Her first collection was a sell-out and now, three years on, the Hampton & Harlow Equestrian label caters for the whole family with an extensive range of clothing and accessories for lifestyle, casual riding, competing, polo and polocrosse. Karen also assures us you don’t have to be on a horse, either — there are plenty of chic options for those of us on the sidelines, plus a selection of country workwear. You can shop the label at her Gympie stores, online and in stockists across the country. 66 Mary St, Gympie, (07) 5481 1846, hhequestrian.com.au
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VICTORIA Frankie Say Relax This bright and breezy lifestyle store is adored for its modern coastal feel — so much so that its owner, Rebecca Feldman, has expanded twice in the past six years, opening another two seaside locations, in both Torquay and Queenscliff, to complement her lovely Geelong flagship store. The interior designer and mum of four has a knack for sourcing homewares, furniture and gifts that are family-friendly. There’s a stable of great Australian brands like
It’s not surprising that this new incarnation of Merchant Campbell has become a destination in itself, bringing countless decorators and daytrippers to historic Yass, keen to peruse unique furniture, textiles and homewares. The Commonfolk Collective candles, Robert Gordon ceramics, Be. bangles and Salus Body, plus some beautiful textiles and plenty of indoor plants for good measure. Upstairs at the Geelong store you’ll also find a print gallery with an amazing selection of unique, affordable art. 139–141 Shannon Ave, Manifold Heights, (03) 5222 4682, frankiesayrelax.com.au
Mika and Max Boutique Meeniyan has always been a popular stopover for travellers making their way towards the picturesque Wilsons Promontory National Park (also known
as ‘The Prom’) and the surrounding coastal areas of Sandy Point, Waratah Bay and Walkerville. Recently, the small country town in regional Victoria has become a tourist destination in its own right, known for excellent dining, retail and leisure options. New visitors also won’t miss the pretty Mika and Max Boutique, thanks to its charming good looks and welcoming pink door. The whitewashed weatherboard cottage is home to an expansive range of fun homewares and fun fashion options, and the pink accents are continued inside. You can shop activewear from Australian label PE Nation, basics by Assembly Label and Nobody Denim, plus browse a selection of bestselling Merry People gumboots. Colourful textiles from Sage and Clare, wall tiles by Ahoy Trader and kantha quilts from Garzie and May add to the relaxed feel. We recommend planning a stop in Meeniyan to visit this store on your next road trip, or shopping the range online. 134 Whitelaw St, Meeniyan, 0428 048 189, mikaandmax.com.au
SOUTH AUSTRALIA Ruby Square Boutique & Living On any given morning in the lovely town of Loxton — about a three-hour drive from Adelaide — you’re likely to find a few faces sitting in the front window of Ruby Square Boutique & Living, enjoying a quiet coffee at the breakfast bar, looking out from under the old bull-nose verandah. You can hear the grind of Arrosto beans, roasted in nearby Renmark, and the sound of local Fleurieu Company milk being frothed. If that isn’t enough to draw your attention, perhaps the smell of Angela Nelson’s fresh cakes and muffins might. Tyla Nelson, Angela’s daughter, is the owner of the shop and she says her mum’s baking has been a huge part of the success of the small business, along with the açaí bowls, raw treats, fresh juices and smoothies. We think it’s also got something to do with Tyla’s stylish range of lifestyle books, clothing and prints on offer. Browse pretty pieces for your home
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The interior of Merchant Campbell in Yass, NSW; Rigby vase from Frankie Say Relax in Geelong, Victoria; brass sparrow from Merchant Campbell; Mika and Max Boutique in Meeniyan, Victoria has a range of fashion and homewares; Apple tea towel (left) and Sunflower cushion from Frankie Say Relax.
by Palm Beach Collection and The Commonfolk Collective, or shop baby gifts and essentials by Bubba Organics and Wilson & Frenchy. 24 East Tce, Loxton, (08) 8584 5760.
PHOTOGRAPHY CAMILLA DUFFY PHOTOGRAPHY
TASMANIA The Part Time Explorers High school friends and kindred spirits Sarah Bird and Jo Ackland reconnected by chance. Having spent 30 years of respective adventuring around Australia and abroad — with time spent practicing yoga, surfing, travelling, writing songs and having their own families — it wasn’t until a serendipitous “Gumtree purchase of a Kathmandu puffy jacket” that they returned into one another’s orbit. Inseparable since that lucky chance encounter, the two have now merged their worlds into a tiny beach shack in Southport, the southernmost town in Tasmania, or as Jo quips “the bottom of the planet”. She describes how they
have both cut their lives down to the basics, owning only those things that are “heirloom, beautiful or are functional” and draws that same connection to the art they now create together. Jo says she and Sarah, when not working, are “governed by the tides, and wander deserted beaches, foraging for sea pottery that’s been tumbling for a century or two on the ocean floor”. Jo often illustrates ships and compasses on the treasures she finds, along with creating the intricate fine art maps she’s become known for. Sarah draws birds and botanicals, as well as making jewellery and artistic sculptures from her collection of seaside discoveries. You can purchase their work, such as maps, sea pottery, jewellery and more online via The Part Time Explorers Etsy shop, or drop into the Craft Island store in Hobart. Ground Floor, 131 Macquarie St, Hobart, 0448 357 900, etsy.com/au/ shop/ThePartTimeExplorers
WESTERN AUSTRALIA Newy’s Vegie Patch The little town of Kirup, about 50 kilometres drive south-east of Bunbury, is home to a local favourite and a treat for travellers on the South Western Highway. What started more than a decade ago as a pop-up roadside stall is now a beloved fruit and vegie shop. Like something that you could find within a tiny European province, the entrance to the small market is lined with baskets overflowing with colourful fresh produce. While sweet, plump strawberries are the jewels in the Newy’s crown, you can’t go wrong with any of the veg or fruit here that has all been sourced from local farms and orchards. Inside the store, shelves are lined with honey, oil, coffee, organic meats and a range of dairy products from a nearby sheep farm, along with handmade soaps. 113 South Weste y, Kirup, (08) 9731 6609.
FASHION
COUNTRY GIRL EMILY BURTON GAVE UP HER JOB AS A KINDERGARTEN TEACHER TO FOCUS ON HER BUSINESS DESIGNING AND MAKING GORGEOUS FRESHWATER PEARL JEWELLERY. WORDS NICOLA SEVITT PHOTOGRAPHY CLANCY JOB AND ABBIE MELLE
One of Emily Burton’s designs, the Dot earrings. FACING PAGE Emily describes her style as “fairly classic” with natural fibres and a neutral palette. “I choose quality pieces that last and gravitate towards a nice cut with quality fabrics,” she says. 116 COU NTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
FASHION When it comes to labels, Emily likes Sir the Label, Viktoria & Woods, SWF, St Agni, Rowie the Label, Camilla and Marc, Scanlan Theodore and Elka Collective. BOTTOM Emily models her Ada (left) and Josie (right) earrings. FACING PAGE Wearing a new style of Peggy + Twig earrings called Frankie.
EMILY BURTON JEWELLERY MAKER, 29
Emily lives with her partner George Quigley on a mixed farming property near Trangie, NSW. A former teacher, she makes pearl jewellery under the label Peggy + Twig. What do you love about living in the country? The space and community. I grew up as the sixth generation to live on a small farm at O’Connell, NSW. As a child I hoped I would continue to live on the land, so it’s lovely the way things have turned out. Why did you decide to start your business? I’ve always enjoyed creating things, so I began making jewellery for myself and friends at uni in Armidale about 10 years ago. I started selling my pieces at local markets, then to 14 stockists in NSW. Now I’m very happy making jewellery with freshwater and keshi pearls. What are your wardrobe essentials? Soft jumpers, jeans, Supergas and a nice bag, plus a classic tailored wool coat. Where do you shop for clothing? Hawkes General Store and Iglou in Orange, and online at Hip Digs in Griffith. Do you have favourite accessories? I do love my Peggy + Twig pearl earrings! I chose a bracelet from Hermès in Copenhagen last year, which is special and a lovely memory. My Once Was Lost scarf is great for this time of year, and my favourite accessory is my Chloé Marcie bag. What’s the best style advice you’ve ever received? Less is more, quality over quantity and dress for yourself. What things in your daily routine help you maintain a balanced life? I walk every day, I talk to my friends, I always have a candle burning and I drink lots of tea. T2 Lemongrass & Ginger is my favourite. What are you listening to right now? A Desert Island Discs podcast is playing at the moment — they have a great back catalogue. Other podcasts I’m enjoying are Hashtag Authentic, The Cut on Tuesdays, The Squiz, The Crown: The Official Podcast and The Design Files Talks. I also like a French Café Lounge Spotify playlist. What do you never leave home without? My Pottery For The Planet cup and Go-To Zincredible on my face. Where are your favourite spots to eat and drink? I have been known to get a day’s worth of food from Bills Beans in East Orange on the way to work. I love their salads and treats. Spilt Milk Orange — I love every gelato and sorbet flavour they have. I visit The Studio Trangie for delicious coffee. The Nevertire Hotel is my favourite country pub and they serve up great food. I also can’t go past a bottle of The Gardener Pinot Gris from Philip Shaw Wines.
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EMILY LIKES TO KEEP THINGS ELEGANT, YET RELAXED. PRODUCED BY NICOLA SEVITT
1 Rose eau de parfum, $425 for 100ml, from Le Labo. 2 Protective lip balm SPF30, $20, from Aesop. 3 Deluxe travel wrap in Blizzard, $319, from Mia Fratino. 4 Adler sunglasses in Rose Gold, $175, from Bailey Nelson. 5 Treasure Puff Sleeve dress, $279, from SWF Boutique. 6 Chloé Marcie leather bag, $1149, from David Jones. 7 Lady Yearling boots in Black, $595, from R.M. Williams. 8 Your Own Kind of Girl book by Clare Bowditch published by Allen & Unwin, $29.99, from Booktopia. 9 Phosphorescence book by Julia Baird published by Harper Collins, $32.99, from Booktopia. 10 A Tree in the House book by Annabelle Hickson published by Hardie Grant, $50, from Booktopia. 11 Florence blouse in Bone, $169, from Rowie The Label. 12 Cashmere topper, $310, from Everyday Cashmere.
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HEALTH AND BEAUTY
TRÉS BELLE
AS A CHILD, Sandrine Carliez spent her
spare time soaking up the pampering particulars at her grandmother’s beauty salon in France. “I grew up playing with creams and experimenting with lipstick,” says Sandrine, now the global trainer for Guinot Institut Paris. “I listened closely to her secrets and rituals for radiant skin because this is a big part of the life of a French woman. It is part of her education.” In fact, femmes françaises begin their cleanse-mask-moisturise routine in earnest — as Sandrine did — in their early teens because, on the whole, they prefer a preventative approach to beauty. “If you take the extra step to take care of your skin, it will pay off in the long run,” Sandrine tells us. “French women are dedicated to face masks, and it’s something passed down at an early age from our mothers and grandmothers.” As well as a twice-weekly mask, the recommended daily regimen includes a gentle milk cleanser, or micellar water if there isn’t much make-up to remove. “If the skin starts to be unbalanced from the first step of care, it will create a vicious cycle of sensitivity and dehydration, which speeds up the ageing process,” says Sandrine. “French women go for facials every month, too, because we see this as ‘exercise’ for the skin. Just as we eat healthily and exercise our bodies, we like to exercise our skin to slow down ageing as much as possible. We prefer a natural approach.” Hydration (lashings of eye cream and moisturiser) is generously applied, in keeping with the French philosophy of beautiful skin equals less make-up. “Glowing skin paired with a simple red
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lipstick, a lick of mascara and brushed up brows — this is the uber-chic Frenchgirl look,” says Alphie Sadsad, national artistry lead for Sephora. If a rouge lip leaves you feeling daunted, Alphie has a pro tip for creating the perfect bleed-free edge. “Trace the outer edge of the lips with a little concealer and blend into the skin with a lip brush,” he says. Despite lips taking centrestage, the French have long had a love affair with smoky eyes or, at the very least, a defining smudge of kohl. “That rock’n’roll French-girl vibe is really easy to pull off if you apply kohl pencil before bed,” says Alphie. Here’s the
“Most French women aren’t diehard trend-ophiles … Their approach is classic in nature, and their look is never overdone.” secret … when you wash your face the next morning, you will be left with just the right amount of eyeliner for a natural but defined look. While our obsession with glowing skin continues unabated in Australia, French women tend to prefer a ‘velvet’ rather than dewy finish. “Healthy, natural-looking skin is a must, and instead of a full face of foundation, they often just have a great skin care routine and use a little concealer where needed,” says Alphie. “And all French girls love a fresh cream blush on their skin. They lightly apply blush on the apple of the cheeks and blend up.”
The French attitude to hair demands the same laissez-faire approach. “French girls never wear a lot of make-up or put too much product in their hair,” says Virginie Gayssot, head of education and talent management for Franck Provost Paris in Australia. “Most French women aren’t diehard trend-ophiles. They don’t chop and change their hair and wardrobe based on the latest fad that is here one minute and gone the next. Their approach is classic in nature, and their look is never overdone.” In terms of hair, that translates to a preference for balayage over high-maintenance foils and a strong focus on the cut because “if done well, there is less time [spent] blow-drying and fewer product reinforcements,” according to Virginie. Hair is not washed daily — second-day hair is easier to style into a messy top-knot or chignon. French women do, however, apply effort to creating volume if required — working mousse into the roots when hair is damp and blowdrying it upside down works a treat. If you don’t have time to wash, a volumising powder will blot away the oil and lift the roots a little. “The French style is naturally textured with movement rather than slick or shiny,” says Virginie, adding that French women are not fans of the super-straight hot-ironed look because it’s too perfect. If they reach for tongs, it’s to create random waves for an unstructured ‘I got up like this’ look. “The French look is understated and never contrived,” says Virginie. “What makes it work so well is pairing it with loads of self-confidence and attit French women do that very well!”
PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO STYLING SARAH FARAGO
VIVE LA FRANCE! IN CELEBRATION OF BASTILLE DAY, JULIETTE WINTER SPILLS THE BEANS ON HOW TO ACHIEVE FUSS-FREE FRENCH CHIC WITH HAIR AND MAKE-UP.
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FRENCH BEAUTY FINDS
Take a moment to peruse these Parisian products… 1 Create the classic French smoky eye with this Le 9 de Givenchy 9.03 ($110), including nine long-lasting shades. 2 French candlemaker Cire Trudon recently introduced a range of elegant scents including Trudon Médie ($299 for 100ml), a fresh citrus with grapefruit and mandarin. 3 Sisley Phyto-Hydra Teint SPF 15 ($145 for 40ml) hydrates while giving a sheer wash of coverage with SPF protection. 4 After watching French girls apply tomato to their skin, Madame Baché created Ella Baché Tomato Radiance Cream ($85 for 50ml). It’s been a cult product ever since. 5 An eco botanical-based beauty brand, Végétalement Provence offers hair care, skin care and beauty accessories. Try the Balsamic Mask ($94 for 200ml) to smooth your strands with nourishing jojoba, marula and bergamot oils. 6 Packed with antioxidant-rich grape seeds, Caudalie
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Beauty Elixir ($25 for 30ml) multitasks as a make-up setting spray and hydrating mist. 7 Create your own French skin care ritual — and inhale the gorgeous essential oils of wild thyme and lavender — with weekly face masks using Guinot Masque Essentiel Nutrition Confort ($80 for 50ml). 8 ‘A piece of Provence in your pocket,’ L’Occitane Le Petit Remède ($22 for 15g) with shea butter, almond oil and lavender essential oil can be used on your hands, lips, hair and cuticles, or even as a highlighter on your cheekbones. 9 Lavish your lips with the ‘Parisian luxury’ of Guerlain Rouge G Sheer Shine Collection Case in Strass Black ($34) and Rouge G Sheer Shine Lipstick Shade No 25 ($52). 10 The ultimate illuminator, YSL Touche Éclat Collector ($70 for 2.5ml) adds a soft glow to eyes, cheeks and lips. 11 With over 100 awards, the nourishing Clarins Double Serum ($149 for 50ml) firms, protects and soothes skin.
BOOKS
BOOK CLUB READING IS DU JOUR RIGHT NOW WITH SOME LIMITS ON WHAT WE CAN DO. REVEL IN THE JOY OF ESCAPE THAT IT OFFERS WITH THIS COMPELLING BUNCH OF PAGE TURNERS. REVIEWS ANNABEL LAWSON
THE OTHER PASSENGER Louise Candlish, Simon & Schuster, $29.99 How does she do it? From the very first page, I wanted to know these two men better. Jamie’s living in a four-storey Georgian house in Greenwich and he takes the riverboat to London on weekdays. He must be a sheikh or an oligarch surely to live so splendidly in the most expensive city in the world. No. He works part time in a coffee bar. The younger man, Kit, grumbles about his own meagre existence though he does have a gorgeous girlfriend Melia. Tomorrow, Jamie won’t get to the coffee bar. In fact, nothing will be as normal from this day forth. Once you’ve turned the last page you’ll concede that it could happen to anyone. The chance of being believed if a trickster has brains and charm turns on a whim of fate.
THE MOTION OF THE BODY THROUGH SPACE Lionel Shriver, The Borough Press, $32.99 Fifteen years ago, Shriver chilled us all to the bone with We Need To Talk About Kevin, a mother’s musings about the unobstructed trajectory of her son from troubled toddler to teenage mass murderer. Every one of Shriver’s novels has been unique but I wish that she could write another novel about this intriguing family that she’s created for us. Remington and Seranata Abraham live in Hudson in New York State. They have two adult children (referred to by Remington, regretfully, as ‘white trash’). Seranata has always been a keen athlete. Now she has a bad knee. A lucrative career in voiceover should not have been affected by her injury. But on one occasion, voicing a character for a cartoon, she had to wear mo-caps and roll around on the floor. Her knee went into spasm. She was sent home.
122 COUNTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
The crunch, however, was to come. The director told her, “The audio companies have gotten so much grief on social media for using white performers to read, you know, black, Chinese, whatever dialogue that it’s not worth the hassle. A few producers have brought in, you know, People Of Colour to read those lines, but that makes the project way more expensive. So, if there’s racial or ethnic stuff in the book, it’s easier to hire a POC to read the whole thing. May be hard on veterans like you. Still the reasoning goes that the privileged have had their day.” Meanwhile, Remington has been fired after a long and distinguished career as a civil engineer and has had his pension frozen. Like the voiceover debacle, wokeness is the cause. Idle at home, he decides to train for a triathlon. He hires a personal trainer for $1200 a month. Her obsession sculpts him into a 65-year-old Adonis-like figure. Does this bode well? Never has Shriver been this uproarious and that’s saying something. I won’t spoil it for you but underneath the high comedy is truth. There are people out there who aren’t going to like it. Shriver, be careful.
A TREACHEROUS COUNTRY K.M. Kruimink, Allen & Unwin, $29.99 With this novel Kruimink won the Vogel Award. The panel was unanimous. At first sight, it seems to be a retelling of Voltaire’s Candide. Like Candide, Gabriel Fox ventures into a dangerous world with only his wits to save him and they are consistently below par. This amiable nincompoop arrives from England in the early 1800s with a mission to accomplish in Hobart. He hopes to find the elusive Maryanne Maginn and be rewarded with his employer’s consent to marriage with her young relative, the clammily indifferent Susannah. His companion
is William who he wrongly believes to be a cannibal. Coming from a dismal family, Gabriel weathers the setbacks in his journey fairly well; he’s used to disappointment. The ending of this rambling, genial tale has been much praised although Kruimink herself says merely “I was tired.”
THE MIRROR & THE LIGHT Hilary Mantel, Harper Collins, $45 The third book in the Thomas Cromwell trilogy opens minutes after the French executioner with his towering curved sword has lopped off Anne Boleyn’s head. The spectators leave for breakfast. Cromwell made it happen though, to be fair, it was a choice between her head or his own. Mantel is in top form. Much is presented in an orderly fashion despite Henry VIII’s often random changes of direction. We already know plenty about Henry’s wives from books, films and television series — squat, placid Jane who gives him a son but dies days later. Poor Anne of Cleves who must crawl away. “She does not please me.” (However, she outlived Henry and the other wives.) Number five, petite pulchritudinous Katherine Howard, was the Lolita at the Tudor court. Henry marries her on the day Thomas Cromwell is executed by royal decree. Katherine Parr is clearly Mantel’s favourite. Slinky, subtle, and appearing only briefly. The book ends before she becomes wife number six. In addition to all the domestic goings-on there’s a pageant of courtiers, diplomats, scheming women and clergymen in disarray. (In 1536, the monasteries were seized and the monks turned out onto the byways.) Later, there was rebellion and threat of an invasion. Cromwell was always the fixer. The Duke of Norfolk, a fine soldier but poison to all his relatives (among them, queen number two and five) was finally
sent to the Tower. On the day Norfolk was to be beheaded Henry died and the prisoner walked free. He died at the age of 80 in his own bed. That’s not a spoiler because it happens after the end of the book. However, it’s worth mentioning because it’s an example of capricious fate under a ruler who wanted to make England great again.
DADDY COOL PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING NICOLA SEVITT
Darleen Bungey, Allen & Unwin, $32.99 Most of us know that Geraldine Brooks won the Pulitzer Prize. A lesser known fact is that her sister Darleen Bungey has also won prizes for her biographies of Arthur Boyd and John Olsen. What Bungey has unearthed about their father Lawrie Brooks was astonishing to them both. Before he met their mother Gloria and made her his fourth and final wife he’d been a Hollywood sensation. Thanks to letters between Lawrie Brooks (formerly Robert Cutter) and a daughter from another marriage
Bungey was able to reconstruct in minute detail the extremes which thrust Robert through the mayhem of the 1930s (his records outsold Bing Crosby’s) and then the war years when he travelled the world as part of a combat/entertainment unit. Bungey digs back into her father’s childhood, which comprised flawed parents and loving grandparents but was forever blighted by the death of his older brother. The facts alone would have been more than a blockbuster read but Bungey addresses contradictions and cul de sacs. She pursues an explanation. Gloria isn’t much help. They met after the war when Robert/Lawrie was on the run from trouble in the US. He knew instantly that she was the one he had been waiting for all his adult life. He told her about Ruby, the seductress whose photo was still tucked away among Lawrie’s few possessions. That marriage had been the Agony and the Ecstasy. Gloria was different. “Don’t worry about being the first, just make
sure you’re the last” was all she would say to her daughters. Bungey’s words shine. It’s the combination of a jewel of a subject and a phenomenal writer.
BETTER LUCK NEXT TIME Kate Hilton, Allen & Unwin, $29.99 Hilton wrote this novel partly as therapy for her own divorce. There are seven men with speaking parts in this expertly devised comic family drama. Two are useless, two lurk in the shadows, two are modern men in retreat from easy choices and one is Peter Pan. On the distaff side we have a domestic goddess, a once world famous feminist, a brilliant lawyer taking an almighty risk, an advertising supremo, a journalist, a mysterious doctor returned from foreign parts and an insufferable single mum. I nearly forgot Oscar, 16, belatedly presented with the one thing he wanted above all els and, bless him, it works out well.
EDUCATION
THE SCHOOL RUN WHERE YOU CHOOSE TO EDUCATE YOUR CHILDREN CAN BE A DIFFICULT DECISION. HERE, WE HIGHLIGHT SOME OF THE TOP BOARDING AND REGIONAL SCHOOLS. WORDS K ATE BA R BER
PHOTOGRAPHY PIP WILLIAMS
Ella Cornish, a student in the Ironbark program at St Peters Lutheran College in Queensland. FACING PAGE The entrance to the 600-hectare Ironbark centre where outdoor education, including farm skills, is taught.
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EDUCATION
For students who board, school becomes a second home and friends are like family members. SCOTCH COLLEGE MELBOURNE Founded in 1851, this all-boys college located in the heart of Melbourne caters for students from Prep to Year 12 and offers boarding from Year 7. It has tennis courts, an indoor heated swimming pool, diving pool, squash courts, weight training room, gymnasium and basketball courts. Morrison St, Hawthorn, Victoria, (03) 9810 4321, scotch.vic.edu.au
TARA ANGLICAN SCHOOL FOR GIRLS The largest privately owned telescope in Australia, built in collaboration with Oxford University, gives students unique access to an astronomy program. The school is from PreKindergarten to Year 12 and offers boarding from Year 5 to Year 12. Weekend outings are supervised and include visits to the beach, movies and shops. Masons Dr, North Parramatta, NSW, (02) 9630 6655, tara.nsw.edu.au
ST PAUL LUTHERAN SCHOOL This co-ed primary school is guided by its strong Christian base. It connects the curriculum with life in the wider community and the world, teaching students about service to others. The latest technology is available to children, with students having access to an iPad from Year 3. 44 Audrey Ave, Blair Athol, SA, (08) 8260 2655, stpaulba.sa.edu.au
SCOTS ALL SAINTS COLLEGE This is a co-ed Presbyterian school for pre-kinder to Year 12. Boarding is available from Year 6 and there is accommodation onsite for visiting parents. The sixty-hectare campus has a working cattle and sheep farm where students can experience hand-on learning. Boarders can
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keep their own horse on the grounds. 70 Eglinton Rd, Bathurst, NSW; 4173 O’Connell Rd, White Rock, NSW, (02) 6331 3911, allsaints.nsw.edu.au
school has a talented athletes program. NEGS offers full-time, weekly and casual boarding. 13-83 Uralla Rd, Armidale, NSW, negs.nsw.edu.au
CONCORDIA LUTHERAN COLLEGE
CANBERRA GIRLS GRAMMAR SCHOOL
A co-ed Christian school with a kindergarten, junior college, middle college and senior college allowing for an easy transition between different stages. Boarding is available from Years 7 to 12 with separate boarding houses for girls and boys but there are opportunities to mix socially in a common room and during activities. 154 Stephen St, Toowoomba, Qld, (07) 4688 2700, concordia.qld.edu.au
With an early learning centre, junior and senior school, this offers seamless transitions for students. Boarding is offered on a weekly or full-time basis with short-term boarding available for day pupils. In senior school, students are offered programs to help them grow into leaders of the future, such as Young Women as Changemakers. (02) 6202 6400, cggs.act.edu.au
KINROSS WOLAROI
Taking its name from explorer John Oxley, this school has about 400 pupils. It teaches a subject, created at the school, that shows pupils how to think critically and exposes them to the big ideas in ethics and philosophy. It offers co-ed learning for students from kinder to Year 12. 11-29 Railway Rd, Burradoo, NSW, (02) 4861 1366, oxley.nsw.edu.au
Located in picturesque Orange, this co-ed school is for pre-kinder to Year 12 and accepts boarders from Year 7. It runs a program that engages student with the local community and allows them to see how classroom learning is relevant in future careers. In Year 11, this program facilitates internship opportunities at local businesses. 59-67 Bathurst Rd, Orange, NSW, (02) 6392 0300, kws.nsw.edu.au
BUNBURY CATHEDRAL GRAMMAR SCHOOL Set on 33 hectares of bushland close to the city of Bunbury, WA, this co-ed Anglican school offers learning for prep to Year 12. Boarding admissions start at Year 7 and there is a dedicated program to help students transition to a new home and school. Also, because it is co-ed, brothers and sisters can board together. 5 Allen Rd, Gelorup, WA, (08) 9722 6000, bcgs.wa.edu.au
NEGS There is a real focus on sport at this regional school, which is co-ed in the junior school and all-girls from Year 7. The world-class equestrian centre is overseen by a former Olympian and the
OXLEY COLLEGE
ST PETERS LUTHERAN COLLEGE This Prep to Year 12 co-ed school has two distinct schools — St Peters Indooroopilly and St Peters Springfield. St Peters Indooroopilly offers boarding from Year 6 onwards and is set on 21 hectares. The Ironbark program offers an expansive outdoor education experience in Year 9. (07) 3377 6222, (07) 3470 3888, stpeters.qld.edu.au
COLUMBA CATHOLIC COLLEGE Spread over two campuses, around 100 boarders reside at this co-ed school in Charters Towers, Queensland. It caters for primary and high school students with facilities that include a working farm and pool. (07) 4787 1744; (07) 4754 6333, columba.catholic.edu.au
PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON SCOTT, ANDREW RANKIN
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT NEGS is an all-girls school from Year 7 in Armidale, NSW; girls can bring their horses to NEGS to stay in the on-campus equestrian centre; pupils arrive at Columba Catholic College at Charters Towers in Queensland.
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COLLECTABLES
AT THE MUSEUM DISCOVER UNUSUAL PIECES FOUND IN THE PERMANENT COLLECTIONS OF GALLERIES AROUND THE COUNTRY. THE VICTORIANS HAD a gadget for everything, and their
imaginations knew no bounds. This perfume-bottle holder, made in about 1875 by an Adelaide silversmith called Henry Steiner, is an outstanding example. The perfume-bottle holder features a silver tree fern, around the base of which two Indigenous men appear to be fighting and a woman carries a baby on her back. The silver of the Indigenous figures is oxidised to give them a natural appearance. Above the fronds of the fern, probably cast from the genuine article, sits a divided emu egg mounted and decorated with cornucopia in silver. The emu finial serves as a button to open the egg, revealing its contents. Also mounted in silver, the perfume bottles are made from the seed pods of the Queensland black bean tree, also called the Moreton Bay chestnut (Castanospermum australe), which because of its pretty orange flowers is often grown in gardens and as a street tree. The seed is highly poisonous, so I hope the nuts are lined! Henry Steiner was born and trained as a silversmith in Germany before immigrating to South Australia in 1858. Like many European silversmiths and jewellers, he came to Australia attracted by the great wealth associated with the gold rushes. Establishing his business in Rundle Street, he was soon one of Adelaide’s most fashionable silversmiths. Steiner’s uniquely Australian silverwork featured Indigenous people and local flora and fauna, and often incorporated natural objects. They remind us of the Germanic tradition of silversmithing when, during the Renaissance, spectacular objects made to impress featured such things as seashells, ostrich eggs and rare pieces of red coral. The Art Gallery of South Australia has an outstanding collection of the work of South Australian silversmiths. agsa.sa.gov.au
$250
COLLECTABLES JOHN McPHEE EVALUATES A PAIR OF PRETTY VASES FROM THE START OF LAST CENTURY. I WAS WONDERING if you can give me any information about these figurines/vases. They have been in our family for a while. No one knows anything about their origin, although we did think they could be French. They are about 38 centimetres tall. Rhonda Burke, Newcastle, NSW French, German or Austrian? It is difficult to be certain of the origin of this pair of vases (shown front and side above). They were made in about 1900-1910 and are examples of the fashion for subjects that evoke a mythical era of a simple rustic life. Curiously, there are several references to love and freedom. One young girl carries a cage from which Cupid, with his quiver of arrows slung over his shoulder, has presumably escaped. The other carries a water jar from which the putto wishes to drink, symbolic of purity and truth seeking. Both are decorated with mistletoe, which is associated with love and peace, and brings good luck. These may have been flower vases used to decorate a dinner table. I wonder if they were once accompanied by another two featuring young men, who would have been courting the women of your vases? John McPhee is an art historian who has worked in art museums for 30 years and was curator of Australian Decorative Arts at the National Gallery of Australia.
WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU
Henry Steiner’s perfume-bottle holder, c.1875 Art Gallery of South Australia.
130 COUNTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
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INDEPENDENT SCHOOLS
Boarding at Scotch College Laying the foundations for their future Boarders at Scotch enjoy high quality accommodation in a caring ‘homely’ environment. Within the College’s extensive 27 hectare grounds, rural boys participate in an unequalled range of activities including music, drama, outdoor programs and more than 20 different sports. Based upon Christian principles, Scotch College has a proud tradition of academic excellence, an extensive sporting and co-curricular program and oustanding facilities in a convenient location. For school tours please, contact Admissions: Phone 1800 622 912
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Prestige Properties | New South Wales
4
Tucked away in a sought after pocket of rural properties is this sprawling family home on approximately 50 acres. The residence overlooks the beautiful established grounds including a lake, fully enclosed gazebo and garden sculptures. The large main residence offers outstanding accommodation for large family including four bedrooms – master bedroom with ensuite and a parent retreat area and boasts a versatile floor plan offering formal and informal living, dining & entertaining spaces. The gourmet kitchen features stainless steel and stone bench tops, a large island bench, polished timber floor, gas cooking, large walk-in pantry and home office. The main bathroom has been recently renovated with quality fixtures and fittings. The home also benefits from a 6.5 kw solar system, reverse cycle air conditioning, two wood heaters and under tile heating in the main bathroom and ensuite. The home also offers a private paved outdoor courtyard, excellent fencing, three dams and great bore supply. $1,050,000
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Please contact Gail Schaefer on 0412 410 949 to arrange your private viewing.
692 ROCKVALE ROAD
A SECLUDED 50 ACRE HIDEAWAY
FOR SALE: BARRABOOL, VIC
Neuchatel C1861 (former Suisse Vineyard) 460 MERRAWARP ROAD, BARRABOOL Price: $1,350,000 to $1,450,000 3 1 1 This charming Barrabool sandstone residence provides a rare opportunity with over 150 years of history, character and individuality. Originally built by pioneer Swiss Vignerons, the property, on close to two acres, features a breathtaking wine cellar, original stables and coach house. Located approximately one hour from Melbourne and with easy access to the Surf Coast. Contact: Heidi Trempel 0414 522 325 Dale Whitford 0417 500 576
STAY ON THE PARK MUDGEE MUDGEE NSW
Two Luxurious self-contained homes close to acclaimed cafes & vineyards. Ideal for wedding groups, family get-togethers or weekend wine tasters. Mention this advert to receive a discount on any mid-week stay. 0428 482 198 27 & 29 Short Street Mudgee NSW bookings@stayontheparkmudgee.com.au www.stayontheparkmudgee
TO ADVERTISE CALL 02 9282 8369
Stay
IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT AND UNIQUE STYLE
62 Byng Street Orange NSW 2800 P 02 5317 8200 | info@byngstreethotel.com.au
W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U
ECO RETREAT Each of the 4 luxury Villas at La Rocher Eco Retreat offers spectacular views of the world heritage Mount Warning/ Wollumbin and Border Ranges. Serenity, peace and tranquillity allows you to truly unwind and nourish your soul in this lush hinterland paradise, close to ancient rainforests and some of Australia’s best beaches. A comfortable 2-hour drive from Brisbane and just over 30 minutes from the Gold Coast airport.
gprocher@me.com • 7 Minto Place, Smiths Creek, NSW 2484 • 0402 272 727
www.larocher.com
HARBOURSIDE APARTMENTS
KINGFISHER PAVILION
The little cooking school offers informal, relaxed cooking classes showcasing the best regional produce resulting in a delicious, leisurely lunch. Adjoining the school is a newly refurbished accommodation sleeping 8. Fully self-contained and stylishly appointed. Accommodation, dining and cooking class packages available.
Sydney’s absolute waterfront accommodation offers fully serviced and equipped studio, one and two bedroom apartments. Conveniently situated at McMahons Point Ferry Wharf Harbourside is the perfect Sydney base for business or pleasure.
Kingfisher Pavilion is a private suite at Bundarra Farm. Fronting Currambene Creek, which flows into Jervis Bay. Kangaroos and birdlife share the farm with cattle, horses, ducks and chickens. Featuring an outdoor spa, fire-pit and picnic table. The Kingfisher Pavilion is the ultimate luxury getaway.
MUDGEE, NSW
0400 417 711 6 Henry Lawson Drive Mudgee www.littlecookingschoolmudgee.com.au
NORTH SYDNEY, NSW
02 9963 4300 stay@harboursideaparments.com.au harbourside apartments www.harboursideapartments.com.au
JERVIS BAY, NSW
0478 008 814 kingfisherpavilion@gmail.com www.kingfisherpavilion.com
THE FUTURE IS EXCITING FOR SCONE, INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITIES ABOUND AND A RELAXED AND AFFORDABLE RURAL LIFESTYLE AWAITS.
New South Wales | Queensland | Tasmania
WWW.LIVEWORKINVESTSCONE.COM.AU
KONDALILLA ECO RESORT
PETER RABBIT™ GARDEN
RIVER COTTAGE TASMANIA
Only one and half hours drive north of Brisbane, nestled amongst 20 acres of abundant Sunshine Coast Hinterland rainforest, this authentic haven from city life allows you time to experience and reconnect with nature.
Take an enchanting stroll through Peter Rabbit’s™ garden, the only one in Australia. Also see, Jemima Puddle-Duck™, Jeremy Fisher™, Benjamin Bunny™, Mr Todd™, Two Bad Mice™, Mrs.Tiggy-Winkle™ & Tailor of Gloucester™.
Escape life’s hustle & bustle at our tranquil cottage by the river. Close to beautiful sandy beaches + cafes & a short drive to the popular tourist towns of Penguin & Burnie. We are approx. 1.5 hour drive to the iconic Cradle Mountain & approx. 50 minutes to the beautiful historic township of Stanley.
+61 7 5445 7650 hello@kondalilla.com www.kondalilla.com
03 6248 5555 Riversdale Estate, 222 Denholms Rd, Cambridge www.thepeterrabbitgarden.com.au
0478 437 700 rivercottagetasmania www.rivercottagetasmania.com.au
SUNSHINE COAST, QLD
WWW.HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY
CAMBRIDGE, TAS
COUN TRY A ND COA STA L R ETR E ATS
THE LITTLE COOKING SCHOOL
HEYBRIDGE, TAS
JULY 2020 COUNTRY ST Y LE 141
COUN TRY A ND COA STA L R ETR E ATS
South Australia | Tasmania
Learn to paint from home with Blooms Online! There’s never been a better time to learn to paint from home. Become the artist you’ve always wanted to be! • No previous experience necessary whatsoever with my PROVEN Jacqueline Coates Blooms Painting Method, a system of painting anyone can apply to achieve beautiful results! • Discover there’s no need to be able to draw to be able to paint! • Become a colour mixing pro with every painting you add to your collection. • Learn how to handle the paint to gain control of stunning outcomes. Enjoy my HOW TO PAINT BLOOMS online 52 week painting program at the promo price $679 (save $100) and my Blooms Live Online One Day Workshop Pack $249 (worth $449). All of my online programs come with loads of invaluable support material, video access and Blooms Art Community Membership. No need to make the typical mistakes other newbie students make when you access my teaching! Accelerate your success! Hang out with likeminded others and be inspired by the new creative you! Art supplies startup packs available also. Learn from the go to artist of 30 years experience! See you in class online!
START YOUR CREATIVE JOURNEY HERE! artscreativehub.com/workshops/paint-blooms-online/
artscreativehub.com/workshops/paint-blooms-online/ • Phone 0412 587 438
embrace winter
with a Tasmanian gourmet indulgence
Experience winter in Tasmania. Join us for our rustic dining showcasing local produce and wines. Luxury guesthouse offering accommodation for groups of up to 35 people between our historic Inn and our three heritage listed cottages. Catering for weddings and private functions for up to 120 people. Just minutes from Launceston. www.redfeatherinn.com.au
“It was snowing as we arrived but we left in bright sun. We so loved our cosy days in this blissful place”
@frenchmansrivercygnet
The crunch of frost beneath your feet, the stars a night and a fire to come home to. We love winter.
www.frenchmansriver.com.au • Kate/Posie 0466 790 142 • book@frenchmansriver.com.au
TO ADVERTISE CALL 02 9282 8369
Winter dreaming by the fireside in your own isolated corner of paradise on private Beaupre Point peninsular. Just a few minutes to the village of Cygnet. “We have been astounded by the beauty and tranquillity, superb accommodation and sublime location at Coast House”
www.coasthousetasmania.com | stay@coasthousetasmania.com | Tel: 0409 446 290
Gracious and simple in design, blending beautifully with its tranquil surrounds. From the wrap-around verandah there are views to the south of the Hartz Mountains and the southwest wilderness, with the Sleeping Beauty mountain range visible to the north. E N J OY A S L I C E O F H E AV E N
T O B O O K YO U R N E X T S TAY
Tasmania
E X P E R I E N C E V I L L A T A L I A , t h e p r e m i e r l u x u r y a c c o m m o d a t i o n i n Ta s m a n i a ’ s u n i q u e a n d b e a u t i f u l H u o n Va l l e y – O n l y 5 0 m i n s s o u t h - w e s t o f H o b a r t .
COUN TRY A ND COA STA L R ETR E ATS
COAST HOUSE TASMANIA
Discover the ultramarine evening light and the everchanging hues and reflections of sky and water can be admired. Various wineries and cheesemakers dot the region, and the cafes and galleries of Cygnet are just ten minutes away.
Experience relaxation, privacy, breathtaking vistas & amazing places to explore. w w w.v i l l a t a l i a . c o m . a u • s t a y @ v i l l a t a l i a . c o m . a u • 0 4 2 7 9 0 1 1 8 8 •
WHISKY AND WILDERNESS
at McHenry Distillery
A perfect base to explore the wilds of Southern Tasmania, or simply relax by the fire with a whisky in your own private escape. Our luxury self-contained 1 or 2 bedroom cabins are surrounded by wildlife and history. Distillery tours by appointment.
RIVERSDALE ESTATE CAMBRIDGE, TAS
French provincial styled cottages on private country Estate, set amongst award winning vineyard and olive grove. 1 queen and 2 singles. Panoramic water views, rolling countryside, rambling walks & private beach. Families welcome! 03 6248 5666 | 0448 701 447 wendy@riversdaleestate.com.au 222 Denholms Rd, Cambridge www.riversdaleestate.com.au
WWW.HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY
mchenrydistillery
mchenry_distillery
mchenrydistillery.com.au
JULY 2020 COUNTRY ST Y LE 143
COUN TRY A ND COA STA L R ETR E ATS
Victoria | Western Australia | Escape and Explore
SANDRINGHAM
NINGALOO BED & BREAKFAST
Sandringham Daylesford, a lovingly restored 1930’s cottage with a relaxed yet sumptuous offering. Replenish in style. Three bedrooms and three bathrooms with luxury fittings and interiors.
Want to swim with whalesharks or humpback whales? Want to snorkel Ningaloo Reef? Stay with us, it’s private, relaxing and personal. Not suitable for children under 10. Whenever you are ready to come we are ready to welcome you.
DAYLESFORD, VIC
Sandringham_Daylesford www.sandringhamdaylesford.com.au
NINGALOO, WA
0409 250 548 ningaloobedandbreakfast@netspace.net.au www.ningaloobedandbreakfast.com.au
18 DAY CHRISTMAS MARKETS OF EUROPE Departing 14 December 2020 Priced from $13,779 twin share $15,579 single Including Return Airfares ex Melbourne (other cities available upon request) Small Groups, Personal Service
1300 885 255 w w w. s i s t e r h o o d w o m e n s t r a v e l . c o m . a u
Discover the heart and soul of Puglia with ITALIAN TOURS!
10 – 23 May 2021 – Puglia, The Road Less Travelled Tour 2 – 9 May 2021 – Highlights of Puglia Tour
Explore the real Spain, Portugal &Moro o
NOW IN
2021!
Tailor made itineraries • Expert advice Heritage accommodation
Slow down and experience the best of Puglia on one of our truly small group tours.
1800 500 016 or 03 9867 8833 WWW.IBERTOURS.COM.AU
Book now! 02 9358 4923 | ciao@italiantours.com.au | italiantours.com.au
NINA’S PATHWAYS
A travel agency specialising in walk travel Independent, tailored advice for the world’s best walking holidays. Advice on walking adventures and accredited travel agency services to pursue them.
www.walktraveladvisory.com 0484 683 429
TO ADVERTISE CALL 02 9282 8369
While our adventures are currently postponed, I look forward to exploring Sri Lanka with you again soon. Until then, keep updated with news on our website.
0419 213 327 | www.ninaspathways.com.au |
/ninaspathways
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COUNTRY SQUIR E
RUSTIC RELEASE
ALL THAT WAS OLD IS NEWLY ANNOYING FOR ROB INGRAM, WHO SETS ABOUT DE-CLUTTERING AND TAKING BACK HIS SPACE IN THE PANDEMIC WORLD. their rustic retreats 24/7, multiplied by however many weeks it has been. It does funny things to you, like double de-clutching your lifestyle into reverse. I stumbled into the country squire existence with nothing but high spirits, methylated spirits, a small cocktail cabinet of assorted spirits, and a fork for toasting marshmallows in case stocks ran low. Okay, and maybe a misconception or two. And then began the acquisition period. The Chosen One and I were first arrivals at country property clearing sales across a wide tract of the eastern and central parts of the state, bidding giddily on anything we didn’t recognise but assumed was essential to country living. It reached the point where any new acquisition that came in through the front door meant earlier purchases had to be squeezed out the back door. We were so besotted with ‘rustic’ that we set about making the house more in keeping with the clearing-sale junk. We scraped away the plaster, sanded back the joinery to bare timber, replaced good hardware with rusty hinges and battered door knobs, while removing the light fittings in favour of kerosene lamps. It was out with the new and in with the old. The sofa made way for an old shearers’ couch, the kitchen furniture for a scrubbed pine table with wooden chairs and a Victorian plate rack above an applewood butcher’s block. We installed So what am I bid for this antique washstand, so solid old bookshelves and sideboards and towel racks and hall that it remained unmarked when I destroyed my anterior stands and glass-fronted cabinets. We cooked in a wood cruciate ligaments on it a few days ago? And this ornate slow-combustion stove and felt guilty that we weren’t mantelpiece in mint condition, except for the bloodstains cooking in the fireplace like the original habitants of this where I collided with it in the dark the other night? Of old house. We might have been cluttered, but we were course, I could only blame my shelf. authentic rustic. And don’t all rush me at once for F SEL OF RLD WO IC DEM PAN E “TH Over the decades the the two classic occasional chairs that YOU T THA S AND DEM ISOLATION clutter became sort of sit on either side of the telephone G HIN RYT invisible. It became part table, blocking access to the front START QUESTIONING EVE of the wallpaper. It was YOU’VE EVER TAKEN FOR GRANTED.” door. The hall stand and the familiar, it was expected, umbrella stand can go too, allowing the lounge it was acquainted, it was au fait, au courant, OMG. It was door to open properly, and I’m prepared to take a very the comfortable domestic landscape from which we would competitive price on the traditional credenza and hutch come and go, and when we returned it was the same that guard the entrance to the office. The same goes for welcoming sanctuary. the hanging meat safe on which the forensically minded Well, I’m here to tell you that self isolation changes will detect scalp tissue and hair. all that. In the prison system, isolation is more correctly The buffet and the bureau and the bowfront chest are called solitary confinement and is known to cause an array superfluous to the post-isolation mental state, too. They can of psychological disorders and trauma. The pandemic all go to the lowest bidder, and if he doesn’t want them, I’ll be world of self isolation demands that you start questioning happy to set fire to them as soon as I can find my 19th-century everything you’ve ever taken for granted. It makes you crave phosphorus friction matches and Edwardian vesta box. change and it makes you crave open space around you. Yep, life has certainly been turned upside down.
146 COUNTRY ST Y LE JULY 2020
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY ABBIE MELLE BACKGROUND PHOTOGRAPHY SAM McADAM-COOPER STYLING PHOEBE McEVOY
PERHAPS PEOPLE JUST weren’t meant to be trapped in
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