Sid Vale Association Part 2

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Keith Owen Fund

The Keith Owen Display Boards

© Colin Walls

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he Sid Valley Horticultural Society Show, held this year on Saturday 15 August 2009, is an annual show and, since 1922, has had a tradition of encouraging the local community to enter the various categories of art, craft, needlework, gardening and floral arrangements. This was their 81st Annual Gardening and Craft Show which, as always, was held on the Sidford Sports Field in Byes Lane from 2pm to 6pm. This year had an outstanding number of entries, 720, and over 500 visitors on the day. Fortunately after a few years of rain, this year was a warm dry sunny day, so completing a perfect day. To go inside the marquee was indeed to see perfection ~ the flowers, crafts and arts were stunningly beautiful to behold. The Keith Owen Grant Committee was delighted to award this Society £5,000 in order for it to obtain, in March this year, purpose designed manufactured display boards, for displaying local school children’s art work at their annual shows. The actual boards ended up costing less than expected due to the fine management of their Chair who obtained an excellent deal with the manufacturers. In the past the exhibits were displayed on an old length of tennis court netting attached to the inside of the marquee. This had proved barely adequate and 8


the presentation did not provide visual appeal for the show visitors or motivation for the child artists. The photo above shows how well the art work can now be displayed. In 2010, the KOF will, within the value of this award, be providing an award cup for a new competition for students from Sidmouth College aged 11-16 which will be in part horticulture-based as well as incorporating other talents in woodwork, cookery, art and needlework. The College will have entries per House and the overall House winner will be awarded this Cup. The Sid Valley Horticultural Society has the display boards in safe storage and, since April, has already loaned them to a wide variety of community users, for example, to FORCE for their big Breakfast in September, the WI and the British Legion for Poppy Day. They have proved to be a wonderful bonus to many.

Karen Allen Secretary of the Keith Owen Grant Committee

Woodlands and Estates Interested in joining a working party? Everyone welcome Every Monday, except Bank Holidays 09:30-12:00 And/or Third Saturday of each month (except December) 10:00-12:00 For details, contact Patrick Stubbs on 01395 513460

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The Restoration of Sidbury Mill

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n 1970 George Cole, the last miller of Sidbury Watermill, retired and the mill was sold. In the following years the buildings became derelict and it was increasingly doubtful if the mill would ever be used again. For three decades the belts, pulleys and stones were silent, left to gather dust and cobwebs and mice made their nests in the crumbling machinery. Was Sidbury Mill part of the history of the village with no part to play in its future? In 1995 John Stephens, a farmer from Hampshire and grandson of the miller of Headley Watermill, was searching for just such a mill which he could restore to working order. By chance John and his wife Judith, discovered Sidbury Mill. The restoration work gradually took shape. The turbine which had powered the mill for its last thirty working years, was beyond repair and the decision was taken to revert to a waterwheel to provide the power. By great good fortune, a wheel of the right size was advertised for sale in the magazine of the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Buildings and even more miraculously it was sited near Exeter. Piece by piece, John took the wheel apart and transported it back to Sidbury. However, before the machinery restoration could begin, the mill building itself and the water channel needed much attention. Joists, floors, ladders, grain hoppers, all damaged by the ravages of time and woodworm, were removed and replaced. This followed repairs to the roof and walls. A new by-pass channel was constructed to carry the water to the top of the wheel. At last the building stood ready for its machinery. First the wheel. The main centre shaft had to be replaced. A local engineering company in Topsham manufactured a new steel shaft measuring 73 in. long and 5 in. in diameter. The bearings for each end of the shaft were re-cast in phosphor bronze at a foundry in Totnes. Timber from a saw mill in Newton Abbot was cut to form the spokes of the wheel using Douglas Fir. Stay bars to keep the wheel aligned were made, heated and hammered into shape before cooling. Lastly the wooden buckets were formed. 10


The sluice gate was lowered and water began to fill the channel. At last, after over seventy years, a waterwheel was turning again at Sidbury mill! Work continued. John manufactured the 151 steel gear teeth and later the 18 wooden gear teeth for the small pinion wheel. The mill stones were beyond repair but another pair of stones was found. It was always the intention to produce wholemeal, stoneground flour but to do so a boulter, used for grading the flour, was needed. One was located in Oxfordshire. Once this was repaired the mill was ready to grind corn (grown on land adjoining the mill) and to produce flour. The restoration work has been lengthy and arduous at times, but looking back, it has certainly been rewarding. At one time in our history there were literally thousands of working watermills in England but now there are only about one hundred. The few remaining are to be cherished and cared for as an important part of our heritage. Above all, they must be used. The flour from Sidbury Mill which finds its way onto the shelves of local shops is small in volume but great in historical significance. Our very first attempt at using the flour we had ground. We were all longing to see whether the flour would be good enough for breadmaking!! L to R: John Stephens, Jonathan Field, who helped us with the carpentry in the mill, and Richard Field, who helped to sow the first crop of wheat!

Judith Stephens 11


Riding the Sidmouth Hopper

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n Saturday September 26, I decided to try the free bus, the Sidmouth Hopper. As the SVA donates to the running of this amenity, I thought I ought to see how it operates. I started from the Triangle at 10.55 a.m. and, with a few visitors, was helped aboard by the driver Jim Tucker. I had expected just a ride, but we had a commentary, informing us about Fortfield Terrace, and as we turned down Salcombe Road, why the pineapple finials were on some buildings. When we reached the Observatory at Salcombe Hill, Jim was a mine of information about the observatory (all correct). We descended the hill back to the Triangle where a few more passengers boarded, and proceeded along the seafront to the Ham car park. Then back along the seafront up to Connaught Gardens and Peak Hill Road where the late R.F. Delderfield’s house was pointed out (The Gazebo), and on to the car park at the top of Peak Hill. We admired the view towards the west; as it was a clear morning we could see for miles. Jim pointed out all the landmarks and ably answered questions. Descending the hill, we stopped at the Connaught Gardens to enable two passengers to alight and visit the café. We toured the car park and picked up another passenger. Jim pointed out Peak House and its history. Back along the sea front, Station Road and the Knowle car park, but no more passengers, and then to the Triangle. Altogether the round trip had taken about an hour, most enjoyable, especially the additional information provided by Jim. A well worthwhile enterprise. I am so glad it is supported by the SVA. Long may it continue. Anyone who hasn’t tried this trip doesn’t know what they have missed.

Sheila Luxton For Information: The Sidmouth Hopper Bus is run, on a voluntary basis, in partnership with a number of organisations. The SVA has committed to fund the running of the Bus for a minimum of three years, and the Keith Owen Fund made an award for 2009. Pictured are some of the partners, from L to R: SVA Chairman, Handel Bennett, Cllr John Dyson, Council Chairman Peter Sullivan, Brian Black KOF Grants Committee, SVA President Denzil Taylor, Director of Fields Trevor Roberts and Chairman of the Sidmouth Hospitality Association Mark Seward © Handel Bennett

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TEL.NO.___________________

POST CODE________________ ADDRESS____________________________________________________

Photos should be sent by e-mail to Sue Harrod at yalis@btinternet.com and marked for use in the Landscape Calendar. Photographers of photos chosen will be given a free copy of the Calendar.

NAME: MR/MRS/MISS:_________________________________________

Photographs should try to include one or more of the following: · Be taken in Sidmouth, the Sid Valley or Salcombe Regis · People enjoying the natural landscape · Convey the beauty of the area · Floral or Historical aspects of the area · Be unusual

Tickets cannot be ‘reserved’. Refunds will only be given if tickets can be re-sold. We regret the Association cannot accept responsibility for any loss, damage or injury that may be suffered by anyone taking part in this event. Bookings close on January 31

If you would like to have one of your photographs included in the 2011 edition, please submit them by the END OF NOVEMBER 2009. This is to allow time for selection and printing, prior to the calendar’s availability at Easter 2010.

Please make cheques payable to SID VALE ASSOCIATION, and enclose a STAMPED ADDRESSED ENVELOPE.

LANDSCAPE CALENDAR 2011

Festive Fare Luncheon

For more details, contact Patrick Stubbs on 01395 513460

5 Course Menu (see overleaf), with musical accompaniment. PLEASE APPLY FOR TICKETS FROM NOVEMBER 23, by completing the booking form overleaf. To: Mrs Joyce Stevenson, Social Secretary, 12b Ascerton Close, Sidmouth, EX10 9BS Tel: 01395 515274.

The SVA has a Bat Detector and Identification card, as well as a Moth Light Trap available to borrow. No training is required.

Victoria Hotel, Saturday February 6th 2010 at 12.30 p.m. (for 1.00 p.m.)

Interested in Bats or Moths?


Fancy Writing an Article?

We welcome any article that has a relevance to the Sid Valley area and may interest our members. The maximum word count is about 800 words and accompanying digital pictures are much appreciated.

Send your articles to Pam Eves: pandbsarumcottage@tiscali.co. uk

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Liz Owen: liz_owen20@hotmail.com

Tickets are ÂŁ24.50 per person

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This newsletter is published twice a year in July and November. Articles are required two months prior to publication. We cannot guarantee that all articles submitted will be published.

Roulade of Smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese and Chives with Salad Leaves and a Lemon Dressing Chilled Fans of Melon served with Seasonal Fruits and a Mango Coulis Cream of Leek and Potato Soup ~ Lemon Sorbet ~ Roast Devon Turkey with Cranberry Sauce, Chipolatas and Chestnut Stuffing Braised West Country Steak with Roasted Onions, Bacon Lardons, Button Mushrooms and a Red Wine Sauce Butternut Squash Gnocchi with Toasted Pine Nuts, Sage and Parmesan ~ Amaretto and Chestnut Mousse with Shortbread Biscuits Meringue Galette with Oranges and Cointreau Cream Christmas Pudding with Brandy Butter ~ Coffee & Mints

Come and watch the next FISH RESCUE at the weir behind the Toll House, Salcombe Road, on Saturday November 7 at 1.30pm.

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Taunton Civic Society visits Sidmouth

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round the South West there are a large number of civic societies. They work with great zeal to protect and conserve their heritage and countryside, and we are the richer for it. Some of these meet regularly to share both frustrations common to many of them, and solutions some have found. They look at the pressures caused by government targets to build more flats and houses, the need to protect verdant countryside from property developers, and the conservation required to sustain historical heritage towns. The SVA is a member of the South West Association of Civic Societies. A fellow member is Taunton Civic Society, which asked if it could visit us in Sidmouth. They asked to meet with members and see for themselves what the oldest civic society in Britain (the SVA), had achieved over the last 163 years. They arrived in September on a day of clear blue skies and warm sunshine. Their programme commenced with refreshments provided by our Social Committee in the Methodist Church Hall, and a welcome from Hon. Secretary Alan Darrant. The party split into two groups which visited Margaret’s Meadow, and were met by Patrick Stubbs (Chairman, Woodlands & Estates) and his volunteers. They saw how the Association’s woods and grasslands are being managed, and visited the Golden Copse. Then they walked through the Byes where they met our River Warden Mike Flynn. He described how, (with others), he monitors the state of the River Sid, its banks and pollution; and how we engage in a ‘fish rescue’ to enable migrating fish to spawn in higher levels. In the afternoon, our Museum team led by curator Dr. Bob Symes, took the parties on our standard weekly walks around Sidmouth. Also on a tour of Sidmouth’s heritage in the Museum. Fran Pitt of Taunton C.S. said “All the comments . . . have been more than favourable. The walk along the river was so lovely and we were blessed with glorious weather. I now realise there is more to the town than the shops and the esplanade! Many thanks to you and your team, each of whom did a splendid job: the refreshments were much appreciated, and the complicated arrangements went Museum Walk round Sidmouth led by Mike Till © F Pitt without a hitch.” My thanks to everyone who helped to make this visit a great success!

Handel Bennett, Chairman 15


Mr Richard Henry Wood and his wife Elizabeth Hatton Wood ~ Benefactors of Sidmouth

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he Woods were the couple who purchased for us what was then known as Fort House, now Kennaway House. They were millionaires of their day and in their short stay in Sidmouth ~10 years ~ they did a great deal of good for the town. Much of which, we are still the beneficiaries of. So who were the Woods? It is not a common name in the history of Sidmouth and in fact like so many people ~ I went in and out of Kennaway House without noticing the marble plaque above the inner front door ~ quite clearly saying The Church House ~ The gift of Mrs Hatton Wood of Belmont to Sidmouth 1904.

Kennaway House Entrance

When I first became involved with the Church House project in 2005 I became aware of Mr and Mrs Wood due to the huge deed copy in our office and this marble plaque above the door. But I was puzzled that nothing else was known. I looked in the excellent Blue Plaque book produced by the Sid Vale Association and written by Julia Creeke and was delighted to read about the Woods under the Belmont House heading and Church House. Thanks to Julia Creeke, I was able to see that they had come from Rugby as they had founded the Hospital of St Cross. I contacted the library and of course the Woods are well known there as the library and museum were their gift, besides the hospital. So begins the story‌ Mr and Mrs Wood came to Sidmouth in December 1896 and moved into their home in Belmont (now the hotel). They moved to Sidmouth because of Mrs Wood’s delicate health, as Sidmouth was well known as a health resort and already a popular retirement place for the wealthy. At this time they would have been 74 and 77, so already elderly. On becoming acquainted with Sidmouth life, Mrs Wood was concerned that the Parish Church did not have a place for social activities and visiting vicars and made it known to her husband that she would like to purchase a property for that purpose. Also like today, society has always had an issue with youth and what to do with bored young men. In the Sidmouth Observer of the day there was often an article re the problem of troublesome youth. She would have been aware of Fort House being up for sale and on her sudden death of heart failure after breakfast on 14th July 1904, her devoted husband worked hard to fulfil her wish.

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It is recorded in the Sidmouth Observer 17th August 1904 that Mrs Elizabeth Wood of Belmont left £83,478 in cash!! A nice sum even today ~ so one can appreciate just how wealthy they were. Mr and Mrs Wood were considered the second biggest land owners in Sidmouth to the Manor. It is therefore significant to note that it was Mr Wood’s wish that the Trust be formed and the property of Fort House renamed ‘The Church House’ after his wife’s wishes in life. Little did Mr Wood realise that by naming the house ‘The Church House’, by the end of WW1 most people would assume that the property belonged to the Church of England, causing many funding problems that have lasted to this century. Mr Wood cared greatly about the history and heritage of his beloved England and used his wealth to purchase churches and buildings for the good of society and to preserve the landscape. It was noted at the opening of Church House in April 1906 by Sir John H Kennaway (Mary Kennaway’s grandfather) that the house had always been a great feature of Sidmouth, and if it had been pulled down to make way for rows of modern houses, it would have been a great loss to the town. Fort House had been up for sale for many years and in Mr R H Wood October 1905 he purchased the house for £3170 and set up a trust fund to maintain the property. In theory this was to be achieved from the rents of Aurora and Barton Cottage which he purchased in 1906. He had left the property in excellent repair both inside and out and furnished completely ~ a caretaker was put in charge from day one ~ the first being Mr Trick. The Trustees of the Trust fund were to be people who lived within a 15 mile radius, and the chair had to be the vicar of the Parish Church. The Parish records from 1915 to about mid 1990s are an excellent record of the life of Church House in the 20th Century. Mr Wood died in April 1908 in his 90th year due to exhaustion, having caught a cold which then developed into pneumonia, after almost four years of intensive work following out his wife’s dream of a Church House and purchasing adjacent land for the benefit of the town. He gave Sidmouth the land that is now the putting green and he purchased the three acres from Mrs Scott of Blackmore Hall for meadow land that later became Blackmore gardens, bowling green and tennis courts. The Woods were wonderful Victorian benefactors and Sidmouth gained from their purse not only Blackmore gardens, Kennaway House, but the Drill Hall, the first steam fire engine in 1902, and the window and font cover and steps in the Parish Church.

Karen Allen History Researcher for Kennaway House 17


Minor Explorers in the Sid Vale in the Nineteen Fifties

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lthough born and bred in the West Country – and with relatives living in Devon on the other side of the Exe – I did not set foot in the Sid Vale until 1957. After the Second World War I went to Worcestershire for nearly three decades, then after a ten year sojourn near Bath, fate brought us to Sidmouth to live in 1985. Our first family holiday here was in September 1957, when we rented a cottage for a fortnight, and enjoyed delightful weather. We had no car then and came down by train. In my young days in east Dorset I had been accustomed to sandy beaches and double tides. In 1957 there was no walkway to Jacob’s Ladder Beach, so it was a case of tidal awareness if we wished to build a sandcastle. The Byes were then a very quiet place and my small son – always a river lover – preferred to be taken there, and armed with an empty jam jar on a piece of string, trawled the Sid shallows for minnows. One or two unwary little fish would enter the jar, and after rapt inspection, were returned to their comrades. Kingfishers occasionally darted past, and once at the beginning of our stay I glimpsed a Purple Emperor butterfly high in the branches of a group of oaks. Sometimes we dedicated a morning or afternoon to minor explorations. These were of no great distance and we relied on the ‘toastracks’ or Devon General buses for our transport. However these outings were not without incident and three episodes, well remembered, may be of interest, as reflections of local life at that time. One sunny weekday morning we found ourselves in the Bickwell Valley. We went up towards Muttersmoor and noticed a signpost pointing to the public footpath across the golf course. There were no golfers to be seen, and we entered. I recollect that I had strolled on ahead slightly, having left the path (which I should not have done) and walked along by a tall hedge. The others had stopped to look at a bush of fine rose hips. I had told them that rose hips had been gathered by school children in wartime because they were needed to make rose hip syrup, rich in vitamin C. Suddenly, from the other side of the hedge a voice said “Hello, darling!” several times. Indignant at such unexpected familiarity I called my husband, who parted the hedge branches and exclaimed “It’s just a garden aviary, with a mynah bird!” For a few years in the fifties imported mynah birds became quite fashionable. The craze for them died out presumably, but I know little about aviary birds, talking or otherwise.

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