Vamoose Utah Winter 2017 by Copperfield Publishing

VOL.3 NO.4 â&#x20AC;¢ WINTER 2017

GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

Get Down With

CANYONEERING 21

Adventure in

LAS VEGAS 10

GRAND

Canyon Getaway

Best Winter

FESTIVALS 32

fuel your

adventure

2 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;˘ Winter2017

Winter 2017â&#x20AC;¢ Vamoose Utah |

Inside

VAMOOSE

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10 17 21 24 26 29 32

LET’S GO: LAS VEGAS Southern Nevada is a jackpot of winter fun BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

OVER THE TOP The Grand Canyon in winter is ever dramatic BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

BOUNCING OFF WALLS Canyoneering in Zion’s magnificent slot canyons BY MATT HALPIN

SKI-TOUR HEAVEN A day in the Wasatch backcountry BY MEGAN WALSH

BACKCOUNTRY CHEF Warm up with hot-buttered rum & souped-up noodles BY DARBY DOYLE

THIS IS THE PLACE The Santa Clara River Reserve recalls a vanished people BY JERRY D. SPANGLER

FROSTY FESTS Nine best fests to fend off winter’s chill BY LIZ GALLOWAY

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Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

VOL.3 NO.4 • WINTER 2017

CONTRIBUTORS GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

STAFF PUBLISHER EDITORIAL EDITOR COPY EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTOGRAPHERS

PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC ARTIST

BUSINESS/OFFICE ASSOCIATE BUSINESS MANAGER OFFICE ADMINISTRATOR TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARKETING MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR CIRCULATION CIRCULATION MANAGER SALES MAGAZINE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR NEWSPRINT ADVERTISING DIRECTOR DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES RETAIL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

JOHN SALTAS JERRE WROBLE LANCE GUDMUNDSEN KATHLEEN CURRY, DARBY DOYLE, LIZ GALLOWAY, GEOFF GRIFFIN, MATT HALPIN, JERRY SPANGLER, MEGAN WALSH VALEN HUNTER, VAUGHN ROBISON, COBY WALSH VAUGHN ROBISON SOFIA CIFUENTES, BRIAN PLUMMER, JOSH SCHEUERMAN PAULA SALTAS DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER BRYAN MANNOS JACKIE BRIGGS SAMANTHA SMITH

JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEREMIAH SMITH, LISA DORELLI

DISTRIBUTED FREE OF CHARGE THROUGHOUT THE WASATCH FRONT WHILE SUPPLIES LAST. ADDITIONAL COPIES OF VAMOOSE ARE AVAILABLE AT THE VAMOOSE OFFICES:

248 S. MAIN, SALT LAKE CITY, UT 84101, 801-575-7003 EDITORIAL CONTACT: EDITOR@VAMOOSEUTAH.COM

6 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

GEOFF GRIFFIN and KATHLEEN CURRY travel the world looking for material for their awardwinning Travel Brigade Radio Show podcast. Find more of their work at TravelBrigade.com and follow them on Twitter and Instagram @TravelBrigade.

ERIC GRANATO

COVER IMAGE: THE GRAND CANYON IN WINTER, SHOT BY TWILDLIFE

@vamooseutah

Former wilderness ranger and recovering archaeologist DARBY DOYLE writes about food, cocktails and outdoor adventures from her home base in the foothills of Utah’s Wasatch Mountains. She’s the proud mama of teenage boys, goofy Labradors and a gaggle of backyard hens.

@VamooseUtah

@vamooseutah

LIZ GALLOWAY is a travel and lifestyle writer who is a nomad at heart. Published online and in print outlets, she’s done celebrity interviews and covered international events. When not writing, she is scouting for great food and wine, flying helicopters and seeking the next outdoor thrill. You can contact her at liz@thelotuseffects.com

Winter 2017â&#x20AC;¢ Vamoose Utah |

8 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;¢ Winter2017

The Gift of Adventure

elcome to cross-over time—too cold for summer sports, not cold (or snowy) enough for winter activities. Yet, even in this liminal season, Utah offers the gift of adventure. Those in the know can easily find powder-filled backcountry trails worthy of exploration. Meanwhile, a short drive south leads to a late-fall outing par excellence, a fun scramble into slot canyons that will test anyone’s climbing and survival skills. This is a great time to relish touristy spots that get written off as too congested in peak season. For instance, with the scorching temps of summer behind us, there’s no better time to cross the state line and trip the light fantastic in Las Vegas. In this issue, Travel Brigade writers Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry provide a unique take on Las Vegas, compiling a roster of adventures—in and out of town, including the unmatched winter splendor of the Grand Canyon. Vegas actually is not a bad spot to celebrate the holidays. Consider having the good folks at Caesar’s Palace Bacchanal Buffet prepare your holiday meal—I doubt you’ll hear many complaints! Vamoose writers have assembled ideas galore to make your early winter adventures stand out—whether it’s “up” in elevation to snow country, as Megan Walsh describes in her Wasatch backcountry feature, or “down” between slot canyon rock walls, as Matt Halpin writes about. For a journey into the past, archaeologist Jerry Spangler recommends that, while traversing Southern Utah, you exit the freeway near St. George and hike through the Santa Clara River Reserve in search of ancient drawings and dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans. To keep you warm and supple as you cheer on your favorite football team or hunt the slopes for a Christmas tree, Darby Doyle shares her perfect on-the-go soup and beverage recipes. Finally, for those seeking connection in the face of winter’s chill, Liz Galloway’s list of “frosty” festivals is about igniting a love of community. Galloway’s shout-out to small-town Utah may be just the excuse you need to feel more alive, to hit the road, to share culture and reconnect with nature. Winter’s ice and cold may be about to take hold, but try fending off the urge to hibernate. Cultivate a spirit of adventure, and Utah will more than reward you. Cheers, Jerre Wroble Vamoose Utah editor

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah | 9| Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah

WinterUtah 2017• Vamoose Utah | 10 10 | Vamoose • Winter2017

Let’s go!

LAS VEGAS

SOUTHERN NEVADA IS A JACKPOT FOR WINTER FUN, BOTH INDOORS AND OUT.

BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

as Vegas is well known for all things indoors— casinos, restaurants, shows and nightclubs. Sin City and its surroundings sometimes get shortchanged when it comes to being viewed as an outdoor recreation destination. Venturing off The Strip, you’ll find hiking, boating and outdoor attractions just minutes away. Southern Nevada is the perfect place for a winter escape allowing you to soak up the sun, fresh air and warmer temperatures.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah | Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

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••••

Thursday

Thursday Afternoon/Evening Salt Lake City to St. George

Hop on Interstate 15 south and stay on it for 300 miles until you arrive in St. George around four hours later. That drive should have you feeling pretty hungry as you pull up to The Painted Pony (2 W. St. George Blvd., 435-634-1700, Painted-Pony.com) for dinner. Find something on the extensive wine list to pair with dishes such as bacon-wrapped duck with apple stuffing or prosciutto-wrapped free-range chicken with artichoke risotto. Just make sure to save room for frozen lemon soufflé served with strawberry rhubarb sauce and orange shortbread.

THE PAINTED PONY

Painted Pony’s chicken and couscous-stuffed squash

Painted Pony’s bacon-wrapped duck

Bedding down in Cedar City

After dinner, check in at Seven Wives Inn (217 N. 100 West, 435-628-3737, SevenWivesInn.com) for the evening. An ancestor of the innkeepers in fact had seven wives, and this colorful history lives on. The inn features 13 rooms and suites, all with their own private bath, located in two Victorian homes in the historic, downtown area of St. George. Your stay includes breakfast made with eggs from backyard chickens and homegrown fruits.

NPS

12 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

SEVEN WIVES INN

The President’s House at Seven Wives Inn

Friday

DAVE BENTON

••••

Hoover Dam

Friday Morning

Friday Afternoon

Get an early jump on the day by stopping for coffee at Perks! (1515 W. Sunset Blvd., 435-628-8413, UtahCoffee.com), voted Southern Utah’s Best Coffee. Try the North Pole Mocha (hot, iced or blended) with a Huevos Rancheros Wrap featuring roasted green chilies. Once you leave St. George, it’s less than a two-hour drive south on I-15 to Las Vegas. So why not arrange an outdoor adventure in advance or upon arrival in Las Vegas? One option is Pink Jeep Tours (1-888-9004480, PinkJeepToursLasVegas.com). Picking up from most hotels on The Strip, the tour company offers excursions to Valley of Fire, Hoover Dam, Red Rock Canyon and Grand Canyon (see “Over the Top,” p. 17) in luxurious all-terrain, 10-seat vehicles. Another option is to head straight over to Hoover Dam by turning off I-15 onto US-93 and making a 12-mile drive through Henderson and Boulder City. On the way, you may want to stop in for brunch in Boulder City at World Famous Coffee Cup (512 Nevada Highway, 702-2940517, WorldFamousCoffeeCup.com). If you’re more in a breakfast mood, this place is known for its pork chili verde omelet. If you’re leaning to lunch, try the open-faced meatloaf sandwich served with mashed potatoes and smothered in gravy.

Check in at the Hoover Dam Lodge Hotel & Casino (18000 Highway 93, Boulder City, 800245-6380, HooverDamLodge.com) and enjoy the mountain and lake views from your room before heading out for an afternoon of activities. One option is to tour Hoover Dam itself (USBR.gov/lv/hooverdam/) at the visitor center or do a 30-minute guided powerplant tour or one-hour guided Hoover Dam tour. Tickets may only be purchased at the site—not online—and are sold on a first-come, first-serve basis. Also, just below the Hoover Dam parking garage (next to Hoover Dam Lodge) is the Historic Railroad Trail (NPS.gov/lake). The 3.7-mile trail runs through a series of tunnels approximately 300 feet long and 25 feet in diameter. Designated as a National Historic Trail in 2015, the tunnels were once part of a railroad line used to carry construction supplies during the building of Hoover Dam.

Hoover Dam

Friday Evening

Downtown Boulder City

Pink Jeep Tours

After relaxing at your accommodations, head into the historic downtown area of Boulder City to The Dillinger (1224 Arizona St., 702-293-4001, TheDillinger.com) where you are requested to “Come Hungry. Come Thirsty.” Open the door handles made of shotguns to enjoy an ever-rotating list of craft beers on tap. This bar doesn’t have an official closing time and offers a special latenight menu on weekends. No matter what time you arrive or leave, the signature menu item is the namesake burger, The Dillinger—a large bacon-cheeseburger topped with a layer of beef brisket.

This is a Place

MROACH

Mike Saemisch

St. George to Boulder City

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

••••

Saturday

Making waves on Lake Mead

Saturday Morning & Afternoon Boulder City to Lake Mead

The Bighorn Cafe, located at Hoover Dam Lodge, opens at 7 a.m. with traditional breakfast items. Also stop by the General Store on property to grab some items to take out on Lake Mead for lunch. Lake Mead Marina and Las Vegas Boat Harbor are both a sevenmile, 20-minute drive from Hoover Dam. Once there, check out all of the rental options available from Boating Lake Mead (490 Horsepower Cove Road, 702-293-1191, BoatingLakeMead.com). No matter which watercraft you choose—sport, jet or pontoon boats, or wave runners and paddle boards—head out to explore the many coves and settle into a quiet inlet for a relaxing day on the water.

14 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

KELLY REINHART

Lake Mead’s Big Horns keep watch

GARY BEMBRIDGE

Neon Museum

Saturday Night

Lake Mead to Las Vegas

JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BENOIST

Enjoy the taste of Downtown Vegas at Oscar’s Steakhouse (1 S. Main, 702-3867227, OscarsLV.com), named after and owned by Oscar Goodman, former mayor of Las Vegas, and before that, a mob attorney. It’s a steakhouse, so the cuts obviously take precedence (served Oscar-style, of course), but make sure to get Johnny Quinn’s crab cakes as an appetizer, which are much more crab than cake. The gin martini on the menu is one the mayor himself likes to drink. And be forewarned, it’s more gin than martini. You don’t have to leave downtown for an “outdoor adventure” in Las Vegas. Slotzilla (VegasExperience.com) is a giant slot machine more than 10 stories tall that serves as a launching pad for a zoomline and zipline. The zoomline lets riders fly superherostyle at speeds of up to 40 mph for nearly 2,000 feet under the lights of the Fremont Street Experience pedestrian canopy. The zipline travels a shorter distance at a lower level with riders sitting up straight. Since this is Vegas, the rides are offered until just before 2 a.m., so stay up late and hit some of the many spots in Fremont East. Then top it off with a midnight ride on Slotzilla.

Fremont Street

Since Las Vegas is minutes away, there’s no way you’re not spending at least one night of this getaway weekend basking in the glow of neon lights. Experience the outdoor version of Vegas and get a history lesson with a visit to the Neon Museum (770 N. Las Vegas Blvd., 702-387-6366, NeonMuseum.org). Known as the “Boneyard,” this spot features more than 200 neon signs that once illumined the Nevada desert sky and now enjoy their final resting place here. Guests can only visit as part of a tour booked in advance. Daytime tours let you see the full details of the signs by sunlight, but night-time tours show off 11 signs that still light up along with other signs showcased by flood lights. Las Vegas is a constantly evolving city, and one of its most interesting developments in the last couple of years has been the rise of the Fremont East (FremontEast.com) entertainment district in the downtown area. A neighborhood jampacked with bars, clubs, restaurants and stores, its few blocks give the feel of walking around a large city such as New York or San Francisco. To immerse yourself into the Fremont East and overall downtown experience, check in at Downtown Grand (206 N. 3rd St., 702-9534343, DowntownGrand.com). Everything associated with the hotel—the pool, parking and several restaurants—is spread out over a city block and street. It’s a much more intimate, laid-back Vegas getaway compared to staying at a mega-hotel/casino on The Strip.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

Sunday

TY NIGH

Evel Pie

••••

TY NIGH

Sunday

Sunday Morning

Las Vegas to Salt Lake

Any respectable Vegas stay demands that you sleep in on Sunday morning. When you finally roll out of bed and get ready to go, walk a couple of blocks over to Evel Pie (508 Fremont St., 702-840-6460, EvelPie.com) to celebrate two American classics—pizza and Evel Knievel. It would be worth visiting just for the motorcycle daredevil’s memorabilia, the pinball machine, the beer list and even the giant sign that reads, “Live Hard, Ride Fast, Eat Pizza.” However, this restaurant is more than a gimmick. The New York-style pizza is actually quite good and served up by the slice. Choose your toppings from among “Cheesy Rider,” “The Barry White Pie” or “Evel Knievel’s Super Kick Ass Combination” (let’s just say it’s got a bunch of stuff on it). Once you get your daredevil and pizza fix, it’s time to hop back on the I-15 and make the six-hour-drive home. Winter getaways in Las Vegas are bright with daytime sunshine and nighttime neon. The average winter high temps linger in the 50s and 60s (it only gets below freezing an average of eight nights a year). Las Vegas is that perfect escape from Utah’s winter cold and smoggy inversions, not only for indoor games of chance but for outdoor escapades.

Evel Pie’s daredevil memorabilia 16 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

OVER

the Top

EVER BOLD AND BREATHTAKING, THE GRAND CANYON BECKONS YOUR HIKING BOOTS, EVEN IN WINTER. BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

ny discussion of the Grand Canyon has to start with the staggering numbers associated with this national treasure: Eighteen miles wide. A mile deep. Carved by the Colorado River winding 277 miles through it. There’s simply no other place like it on Earth.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

18 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

Grand Canyon views: Storm clouds brew above the South Rim’s Mather Point

MICHAEL QUINN

When visiting Grand Canyon National Park (20 S. Entrance Road, Grand Canyon, Ariz., 928-638-7888, NPS.gov/grca) in the winter, you’ll find all of the beauty and grandeur of summer but with cooler temperatures and fewer people. The park’s less-hectic atmosphere during winter encourages visitors to slow down and savor the vistas. The park’s North Rim is closed in winter months while the South Rim remains open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It can be reached by car from Salt Lake City in a little over eight hours and is a four-hour drive coming from Las Vegas. Another option from Las Vegas is to drive three hours to Williams, Ariz., and climb aboard the Grand Canyon Railway (TheTrain.com). This 65mile rail journey takes two hours and 15 minutes and lets you enjoy plenty of scenery along the way. From Las Vegas, you can also let somebody else do the driving by booking with Pink Jeep Tours (1-888-900-4480, PinkJeepToursLasVegas.com). When booking a 13-hour tour package to the South Rim, they pick you up at most hotels along the Strip and transport you in one of their specially outfitted Tour Trekkers. The trip also includes various stops along the South Rim before returning to Las Vegas. Once at the South Rim, you have a choice of just how much winter you want. If you

NPS

stay up on the canyon’s rim, daytime high temperatures during the winter climb into the 40s (Fahrenheit), while falling below freezing at night. Storms occur on a regular basis, sometimes bringing snow. If you make the journey to the canyon floor, temperatures average about 15 to 30 degrees warmer. Either way, it’s important to layer clothing and plan ahead for inclement weather. Multiple lodging offerings are available up top (book at GrandCanyonLodges. com and VisitGrandCanyon.com). But for a truly memorable Grand Canyon experience, plan a stay at the bottom of the canyon with the Phantom Ranch (888-297-2757,GrandCanyonLodges.com/ lodging/phantom-ranch). This lodge offers a series of cabins, dorms and a canteen and, as the only lodging below the rim, it is usually full in summer months (you can book rooms 13 months in advance). In the winter, however, rooms tend to be more available, but advance reservations are a must before making the trek down. Hiking down the 10mile Bright Angel Trail from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch will take between four and six hours. The way back to the top will take from six to 10 hours. Another option is to ride a mule down and back, and during winter months, onenight mule-trip packages are available (GrandCanyonLodges.com/things-to-do/ mule-trips/). The ride down on Bright Angel Trail takes about 5 1/2 hours. Packages include a night’s stay at Phantom Ranch, sack lunch, steak dinner served family-style, and breakfast. After a night’s stay, the mules leave the next morning following breakfast and return up the shorter South Kaibab Trail, which is also a 5 1/2-hour trip. Drivers meet guests at the trailhead and take them to Bright Angel Lodge.

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Grand Canyon’s Phantom Ranch’s Cabin 034

NPS

Rent a bike to tour the shoreline

20 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

NPS

Whether you hike on the rim and take in the views or trek down to the canyon’s floor, you’ll need to plan for every contingency. The Grand Canyon National Park website emphasizes: “Everyone who hikes in the canyon for the first time reports that it was more difficult than they expected.” The very first sentence on the “Winter Hiking” page reads, “Every year, scores of unprepared hikers, lured by initially easy downhill hiking, experience severe illness, injury or death from hiking in the canyon.” In other words, be careful out there. To find the safest route, consider taking one of the ranger-led hikes during the day. Note that the weather from the night before may largely determine if you can hike a particular loop or trail the next day and what equipment you’ll need once you’re there. Trails may be clear one day, then covered in inches of ice the next. If venturing out on trails where snow and ice may become an issue, be sure to have the appropriate equipment (i.e., crampons, poles, etc.). Visiting the South Rim of Grand Canyon during winter is ideal for those who want to explore this stunning location in intermittent solitude, without the crowds and congestion of summer. Just make sure to bundle up and take it slow.

Down

UNDER

WEEKENDS ARE MADE FOR CANYONEERING IN ZION’S SLOT CANYONS. BY MATT HALPIN WITH PHOTOS BY VALEN HUNTER

f it’s Friday, you’ll likely find me printing out maps and—between tasks at work—studying some new topography. Co-workers may drone on about their weekend plans, but by now, they’ve stopped asking about mine. They know my bag is packed and waiting in the car for another smooth escape south from Salt Lake City to the myriad canyons snaking through the Colorado Plateau. From Moab to St. George, there’s more hidden there than you could explore in a thousand weekends. “Have fun canyoneering,” my friends say to me on my way out the door, “... whatever that is!”

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

As a sport, canyoneering started to gain traction around the 1970s, particularly in the region that now makes up Zion National Park. Rock climbing had taken off some 20 years prior, but a few intrepid climbers, such as Dennis Turville, applied their technical climbing skills in a downward direction, even though descending may have seemed counterintuitive and even claustrophobic. Turville and his close circle of canyoneers were credited with making the first descents of now-famous canyons such as Heaps, Keyhole and Pine Creek. However, precious little was shared about those descents, save for a few photos snapped by Turville deep inside the canyons. Even still, it proved impossible to keep these canyoneering exploits a secret, and others learned about the adventures and soon followed.

there’s a collective sigh of relief and sense of empowerment that I find to be unmatched in other climbing sports. Navigating these narrow slots carved out by centuries of snowmelt and flash floods, I have the sense of being choked out by time itself. Struck by the notion of my impermanence— knowing this canyon was here before me and will be here long after my visit—I am left more inspired than disheartened. I smile and step down deeper, digging my shoulder into this tootight corner of the Colorado Plateau.

22 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

Salomon SPEEDCROSS 4 Shoe Grippy footwear is really important. Much of the downclimbing requires firm hold on slippery, often wet, sandstone.

$130 Salomon.com

Waist deep in water Once en route, I discover that Friday nights are for navigating dirt roads in the dark, squinting at guidebooks as I try to find a suitable campsite. Pavement becomes dirt roads, and road signs gradually disappear. My only means of navigating is by counting raw mileage: “Follow the jeep trail 6.7 miles, turn left, reset your odometer, and head another 3.3 miles to a fork.” The remoteness becomes palpable, and I start to remember why the long drive south is so worth it. Saturdays (and Sundays), then, are for canyoneering. My fellow canyoneers and I load our bags with ropes, harnesses, webbing, rappel devices, wetsuits, drinking water and extra layers. We march onto the plateau in search of an entrance to our canyon. Many are hidden from plain sight, and you need to rely on navigation instruments. Just when you begin to doubt that a canyon is there at all, your descent comes into view—perhaps a steep rappel or a slow hike between sandstone walls. Descending further, the walls grow up around you, and the canyon becomes dark and cool. Another rappel, and we’re waist-deep in water. In some sections, we’re swimming, jumping into natural pools and sliding down wet slabs of sandstone. What I like now, beyond the natural water park, is the fact that we’re fully committed. While climbing, you tend to have the ability to bail, but most canyons require you to see them through to the end. Thus, you need absolute faith in yourself and your group that you’ll be able to make it out. It’s the unforgiving, no-turning-back nature of canyoneering that makes the sport especially dangerous, but that’s also at the core of why it’s so fulfilling. You can be deterred by the canyon’s ebbs, flows and obstacles, or you can learn to trust in yourself and those with you that you’ll handle each down-climb, pothole and rappel as they come. And sure enough, when you make it through,

MATT’S GEAR GUIDE

Getting properly outfitted for canyoneering initially requires a decent investment, but once you have your gear, canyoneering becomes a low-cost adventure. Here are a few of Matt Halpin’s “must haves.”

Petzl PIRANA Descender

Author Matt Halpin points the way along sandstone walls

The proper belaying device is essential for long, technical rappels. Varied circumstances require multiple friction/braking options.

$40 Backcountry.com Imlay CANYON FIRE Rope Static ropes are easier to rappel from than dynamic climbing ropes. This one is designed especially for the unique conditions of the Colorado Plateau.

88 cents/foot Store.Canyoneering.com

NOTE TO CANYONEERS

Zion National Park (State Route 9, Springdale, 435-772-3256, NPS. gov/zion) offers dozens of canyons to explore for both amateur hikers and skilled climbers alike. Note that a permit is required for all technical canyoneering trips. For beginners, get your feet wet at the lower end of The Narrows (no permit is required for the bottom-up hike from the Temple of Sinawava). Meanwhile, The Subway and Orderville Canyon provide nontechnical opportunities such as route finding, swimming and short rappels. Thrill seekers won’t have a hard time finding more challenging canyons around the park’s boundaries, either. Heaps, Imlay, and Behunin represent some of Zion’s more difficult routes. Unless you’re going with an experienced party, you should always go through a guiding company. Not only do you need the skills they can teach you but also the awareness of dangers such as flash floods and rappelling challenges.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

ENTER TO WIN $100 TO

$50 IN TUNE-UPS FROM

efore we moved to Salt Lake City from Spokane, Wash., a ski tour required time and effort. My husband and I would be out the door by 6 a.m. at the latest and drive two or three hours to a trailhead. We’d ski laps until our legs were too weak to make turns, get to the car as dusk crept up the sky, and toss back five-hour energy shots on the drive home. Salt Lake’s Wasatch Range is the opposite. It’s really accessible. Here, we can be out the door at 6 a.m., and on the trail 30 minutes later. What’s even better are the gentle grades, perfectly spaced aspen groves, and, of course, the “Greatest Snow on Earth.”

Endless possibilities

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Backcountry skiing has gained popularity especially in the past few years as social media has taken hold. We used to see photos of hordes of people skiing down groomers or at the park, but now there are images of untracked powder, without a soul in sight. This is what draws so many of us to the backcountry. Although the sport requires endurance (it’s a “human-powered” activity), the views and solitude that can be experienced make all the effort worthwhile. Ski mountaineer Andrew McLean said it best in the forward to Backcountry Skiing Utah guidebook, “An average powder day here is a once-in-a-lifetime experience anywhere else; and a great Utah powder day, well, it can redefine your life.” And it’s not hard to find that legendary powder. Nine and a half miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon lies some of the easiest, most beautiful terrain in the Wasatch. Parking at Spruces Campground, you can access trails on the north and south sides of the canyon. To the north, past a private parking lot, a summer road winds past a group of quintessential mountain cabins. By November or December, this road is covered in snow, and provides an obvious skin track into the Mill D North Fork drainage. In the summer, trails for both Dog Lake and Desolation Lake meander through this same forest. Using skins or snowshoes opens this area to endless possibilities. Less than a mile up the drainage, there are multiple trails winding up to Tom’s Hill, Short Swing, or my personal favorite, Powder Park 3. While Powder Park 1—below Sheep Shit Ridge—and Powder Park 2—north of West Desolation Ridge—are equally fun to ski (though Powder Park 2 is a steeper grade), Powder Park 3’s bowl-like terrain makes this area unique as it opens up in wide swaths similar to runs at a resort. Between uneven groves of aspen trees are uninterrupted glades of Utah’s finest powder, and on any given day, blissful cheers echo as powder-

Ski-Tour

HEAVEN

MAKING THE MOST OF A DAY IN THE WASATCH BACKCOUNTRY BY MEGAN WALSH PHOTOS BY COBY WALSH

seekers maneuver their way down freshtracked lines. It’s also where I learned to make S-turns on a bluebird powder day earlier this year. The summit near Powder Park 3—aptly named The Cone—gains access to Beartrap Fork in the east, another mecca for moderate terrain. Off the southeastern side of the cone, glades develop to groves, with a thicket of coniferous trees thrown in for good measure. Due east of the cone are the Beartrap Aspens. With 800 feet of moderate and tightly spaced tree skiing, it’s easy to do multiple laps without skiing the same line twice. Hiking west up The Cone connects back to Powder Park 3, where following the natural descent through Short Swing brings you back to the drainage, and you can ski all the

way down to your car. Word to the wise: Although it’s possible to see avalanche activity in this area, the majority of trails leading out of the Mill D North Fork Drainage and the Beartrap Fork Drainage have low-angle slopes with relatively low avalanche danger. While it’s easy to access Wasatch backcountry, it’s even easier to attend a free Know Before You Go class put on by REI (rei.com) or the Utah Avalanche Center (UtahAvalancheCenter.org). Throughout the winter, informational classes are held throughout the valley to educate backcountry users on accessing, and enjoying, our incredible backcountry terrain. In addition, the UAC puts out a daily avalanche report through its app to let users know of potential dangers in the area. Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

BACKCOUNTRY

Liquid

COMFORT

WARM UP YOUR WINTER ADVENTURES WITH HOT-BUTTERED RUM & SOUPED-UP NOODLES BY DARBY DOYLE

26 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;¢ Winter2017

ew things are as delicious and satisfying as a warm mug of cider or cocoa when tailgating on a drizzly day before the big game, made even better with a little nip from the flask. Or slurping down a cup of steaming noodle soup after a day snowshoeing or sledding, clutching a spork with chilly fingers. That liquid comfort traveling from lips to bellies—warming us up from the inside out—is a sure sign our day in the great outdoors just got that much better. Unfortunately, most of the options in the pre-packaged “just add hot water” category for both sustenance and sipping tend to be chock-full of preservatives and a long list of ingredients we can’t identify, let alone pronounce. But that needn’t be the case with a bit of night-before prep, some simple ingredients and a thermos of hot water. Here are two of my favorite ways to warm up when the weather cools down.

HOT-BUTTERED RUM Around Thanksgiving each year, I mix up a jar of hot buttered rum batter and scoop it out as needed all winter long. It’ll keep for months in the fridge, and one pint will make 20-plus drinks, depending on how buttery you like your mug. For the booze component, a golden-hued barrel-aged rum from Barbados gives the drink a nice molasses tone, but you can use white rum if that’s what you’ve got on hand. Method: To an 8-ounce (1 cup) mug add: 1 heaping tablespoon of butter batter (recipe, below) and 2 ounces dark rum. Fill the mug almost to the rim with hot water and stir gently until the butter is melted and sugar dissolves. Rub the rim of the mug with a bit of orange zest and drop the zest into the drink. Top off the mug to the rim with more hot water if needed, and a little grating of fresh nutmeg.

Rum Butter Batter • ½ cup vanilla bean ice cream, softened • ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened • 1 ½ cups packed light brown sugar • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon • ¼ teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg • ¼ teaspoon ground ginger • A generous pinch each of: ground cloves, ground mace and smoked sea salt In a bowl, smash all of the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Transfer to a pint Mason jar or other resealable container. Store in the refrigerator until ready for use.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

Nutritious, delicious soup in a jar

SOUPED-UP NOODLES When my kids were little, one of their goto après-ski tailgate snacks was that cheap ski-bum staple: instant ramen noodles in a Styrofoam cup. Now that they’re older, we still crave that salty carb-fest but also aim to add more nutritious, complex flavors to the mix. Inspired by a favorite food scientist, Kenji Lopez-Alt of the SeriousEats.com Food Lab, we’ve been playing around with an endless variety of just-add-water instant noodle combinations assembled at home before we head to the slopes. Just keep in mind that whatever ingredients you add for your own variation won’t really “cook” in the jar—a thermos can’t keep water hot enough for heating raw meat to safe temperatures—so include pre-cooked meat and either par-cook or shred hard vegetables into small pieces. This makes for a perfect opportunity to use leftovers. Cooked spaghetti noodles, grilled veggies and that doggie-bagged sirloin from the steakhouse all make for great Mason jar meals. Just build your jar using these suggested layer ingredients, and you’re good to go! Layer 1, Flavor booster: 1 heaping tablespoon of “Better Than Bouillon” beef, chicken or vegetable stock base concentrate. Add a bit of soy sauce, hoisin, Sriracha or fresh cracked black pepper for an extra kick. Layer 2, Protein: Layer shredded rotisserie chicken, chopped deli ham, thinly sliced strips of cooked beef, cooked shrimp, chopped turkey jerky, canned garbanzo beans or hard-boiled egg. Layer 3, Veg it up: Add shredded carrots, thinly sliced zucchini, spinach leaves, frozen peas or corn, cabbage leaves, chopped green onions, jalapeno peppers and sliced mushrooms. Layer 4, Noodles: Dry Thai or Vietnamese rice noodles can be added with no precooking prep; Italian-style pasta, egg noodles and other hard pasta should be precooked. For extra noodle-y goodness, pack these to the top of the jar. Close the lid. Add hot water to the jars just before serving. Replace lid firmly and, wearing a glove or using a towel, give the jar a few gentle shakes to distribute and dissolve the bouillon evenly. Caution: Jar will be hot to handle, so either let it cool or wear gloves.

28 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

t is hard to imagine—as you scream south on Interstate 15 toward St. George past the strip malls, golf courses and cookie-cutter subdivisions—that the redhued sandstone cliffs and buttes here harbor secrets of long-since-disappeared villages and hamlets, some two millennia old. For many, the crush of modern humans descending upon Utah’s beautiful landscape is incongruous with the desert landscape— it is seems somehow unnatural. But the reality is this land has beckoned humans for thousands of years.

Remnants of

ANTIQUITY SANTA CLARA RIVER RESERVE HIKING TRAILS REVEAL LOST TRACES OF A VANISHED PEOPLE STORY & PHOTOS BY JERRY D. SPANGLER

THIS IS THE PLACE

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

Treasures of the Santa Clara River Reserve

There was a time, roughly a thousand years ago, when the St. George Basin had one of the largest populations anywhere in the state—thousands upon thousands of maizegrowing families made their homes along the Virgin and Santa Clara rivers. Locals refer to these ancients as the Virgin Anasazi, although archaeologists prefer the more politically correct term Ancestral Puebloans of the Virgin River country. They were most certainly cousins to the prehistoric residents of southeastern Utah now famous because of the Bears Ears National Monument designation. The first farmers probably arrived in the St. George area around A.D. 1, give or take a couple hundred years. They might have arrived by way of an ancient travel corridor—the I-15 of its day—that extended from northern Arizona along the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, where they left distinctive images pecked into the cliffs that harkened to their homelands. Over the decades and centuries that followed, they developed a complex social structure and intricate trade networks that connected them to distant lands and peoples. Scores of communities were packed along river bottoms and perched high on mesa tops with cliffs to protect them. Their society was every bit as complex and awe-inspiring as those to the east.

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Art hiding among the boulders

And there were lots of them—so many so that when punishing droughts descended on the region about A.D. 1250, there were simply too many people to feed and not enough water to grow crops. They had no choice but to leave, walking away from their ancestral homes. “What?” you might ask. “So where is the evidence of this great society?” The short answer is that the remnants of that ancient culture are mostly buried below or were ripped out during the course of building modern roads, homes and shopping centers. What makes a good house site today was also a good house site a thousand years ago. Consequently, there is not a whole lot left to remind us of how the ancients thrived in this desert landscape. A few of the sites were investigated by archaeologists before they were lost. But the biggest treasure resulted from forwardthinking leaders in Santa Clara, Ivins and the St. George field offices of the Bureau of Land Management—all of them concerned about urban sprawl and the critical need for open space and recreation. In 1997, they set aside the 6,500-acre Santa Clara River Reserve, mostly for hiking and biking trails. Whether they intended to or not, they preserved important remnants of Ancestral Puebloan hamlets perched on a mesa top overlooking the Santa Clara River. In

addition, they protected hundreds of the finest prehistoric rock art images to be found anywhere in southwestern Utah—all with a drop-dead gorgeous scenic backdrop that must have inspired the ancients as it does us today. In reality, the reserve now has 16 hiking and biking trails of varying skill levels, and archaeological sites can be found along most of them if you know what to look for. But one trail in particular—the 3.6-mile Tempi’po’op Trail—offers a glimpse into a prehistoric wonderland. The trail wends its way past ancient houses—only the stone foundations remain after a millennium of decay, so use your imagination—and toward the edge of the cliff. You will notice a few petroglyphs on the flat volcanic surfaces next to the edge (please do not step on them). But to enjoy the good art work, work your way off of the edge to the base of the highest cliff band—about 20 to 40 feet down in most places—where you will find a primitive trail that twists its way through lava boulders, each covered in scores of bizarre images harkening to a lost people in a forgotten time. The rock-art images are scattered along a quarter mile or so of this cliff level, and the more you look, the more you will find. On every visit, I discover something new I haven’t seen before.

Plan on at least three hours to explore the rock art along this trail, more if you like to explore. There usually is plenty of parking at the Anasazi Valley Trailhead, where restrooms are an added convenience for families with children. And it can get hot even in the winter, so take plenty of water. To get there, make your way west from St. George to Santa Clara and look for the Jacob Hamblin historic home in the downtown district. From that point, there are several routes into the reserve (visit BLM.gov/ download/file/fid/3732). But to get to the petroglyphs, continue on the main drag another 3.2 miles to the west (it turns into U.S. 91) and watch for the turnoff to the Anasazi Valley Trailhead. The improved trail to the mesa top is easy for all ages (it is a little steep at the beginning, but levels out). The boulder scrambling, on the other hand, is more difficult. For more information on hiking and biking in the reserve, contact the BLM St. George Field Office at 435-688-3200, or visit SantaClaraTrails.com. Jerry D. Spangler is an archaeologist and executive director of the Colorado Plateau Archaeological Alliance, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving archaeological and historic sites on public lands.

Winter 2017â&#x20AC;˘ Vamoose Utah |

Frosty F

FESTS

NINE WAYS TO CELEBRATE YOUR INNER SNOWMAN BY LIZ GALLOWAY

or many Utahns, winter is a time to snuggle up in sweaters and fend off freezing temps. For others, it’s about bundling up and heading out to mingle with a community of your ilk, celebrating winter’s grip. The demand for fringe and destination festivals has boomed in recent years. From Burning Man-style bonfires to outdoor sports to gatherings of friends to mark the season, Utah winters abound with community events and holiday productions. Here are nine festivals that cross the state and are well worth the trek, offering community connections, a chance to commune with nature and the opportunity to give to charity. Go, get out and play, and avert FOMO.

BRIAN B - NPS

Bryce Canyon Winter Festival

(Feb. 17-19, 2018) Winter camping, anyone? This Southern Utah festival has us dreaming of carved hoodoos dusted with snow. Bryce as a festival setting boasts some of nature’s best architecture and diversity. The three-day celebration goes on, regardless of weather, catering to outdoor lovers of all stripes. One of winter’s best-kept secrets, the event includes kayaking, snowshoeing, ice fishing, archery biathlons, kids’ camps, leather making and nature photo workshops. Book your reservations. Ruby’s Inn, 26 S. Main, Bryce Canyon, 866-866-6616, RubysInn.com/bryce-canyon-winter-festival, brycecanyon.com

DEER VALLEY RESORT

Park City Snowfest

(Dec. 16-31, 2017) Park City Snowfest provides wild winter outdoor recreation with plenty of festival perks. Multi-generational crowds show up for 16 days of holiday activities, including “Santa Comes Down Town Lift,” a torchlight parade and New Year’s Eve fireworks. Immerse yourself in sound with a generous calendar of DJs, acoustic duos and energetic musicians playing funky après beats. Get your festi-feet dancin’ at the ugly sweater party, or try out s’mores and making snow angels with the kids. Ski patrol is on hand, with costumed cowboys, and daily musicians—just oodles of things to do. This event turns 55 this year, so, if you’re into tradition, celebrate! 435-649-8111, ParkCityMountain.com

BLACK FOOTED FERRET FAN

Bluff Winter Solstice Festival

(Dec. 21, 2017) If you’re looking to play with fire and soak up local tradition, ring in the Solstice near Bear’s Ears Butte. Bluff’s Solstice celebration commences with a light parade and climaxes with a bonfire of burning animal totems. Locals spend days designing intricate animals of willow and sage for the festival. Past bonfires have included representations of mammoths, herons and bison. Locals and visitors cheer around the bonfire, while many await the magic hour to gaze upon the brilliant glow of sunrise on the bluff. Rock the Solstice like the Ancestral Puebloans: Stay and appreciate Native American culture, monuments and history. Local artists present their works, along with classes where you can learn how to make your own animal totem. Utah Canyon Country, 800-574-4386, BluffUtah.org

NPS

DNR State Parks WinterFests

(January 2018) Wasatch Mountain State Park (435-654-1791), East Canyon State Park (801-829-6866) and Bear Lake State Park (435-946-3200) host a trifecta of winter festivals. You can free your spirit snowmobiling and tubing at East Canyon (date TBA), or on January 20, snowshoe and rent fatty bikes at Wasatch Park. If you’re looking for a weekend getaway, live it up at Bear Lake State Park on January 27 and stand with Common Ground charity that provides yearround outdoor rec. Take the monster plunge and dive into frigid waters, or dip your net for cisco fish with the sunrise cisco disco. Plenty of product demos are available for all ages. Find lodging options on the park’s website. Marina fees waived for Bear Lake festival-goers. BearLakeMonsterWinterfest.com, StateParks.utah.gov

(Continued on p. 34)

32 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

Exceptional care for exceptional pets

FULL SERVICE VETERINARY HOSPITAL BOARDING GROOMING DOG TRAINING PET TAXI STAY N’ PLAY DAYCARE VET ER

WINTER HOURS

MON-FRI SATURDAY SUNDAY

7 AM-7 PM 8 AM-7PM 8 AM- 6 PM

2055 E Creek Road • willowcreekpet.com

8 01- 9 4 2- 07 7 7 Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

(Continued from p. 32)

CLINT LOSEE

Moab Skinny Tire Festival

(March 10-13, 2018) Grab your National Park pass and channel your inner Armstrong to celebrate Spring 2018, all while passing through Utah’s iconic national parks. March’s cooler weather makes it perfect for road biking and body conditioning. You’ll ride through Deadhorse Point, Arches National Park, Colorado River Corridor and the River Portal Route. Moab’s festival showcases true environmental stewardship and community support by promoting leaveno-trace events and supporting charities. Registration fees range from $150-$190, with $25 going to cancer-survivor programs. Bonus: you can ship your own bike there and have it reassembled. Aarchway Inn Hotel, 1551 U.S. 191, Moab, 435-259-2599, SkinnyTireEvents.com, DiscoverMoab.com

Banff Mountain Film Fest

(Feb. 15-March 5, 2018) Need to be inspired by pioneering outdoorsmen and -women? The Banff Centre for Arts & Creativity has you covered taking its extreme adventure and sport films on the road. With screenings set in Logan, Ogden, Orem and Salt Lake, you can view, front and center, groundbreaking expeditions, without boundaries or gender bias. Get involved, feel alive or maybe submit your own radical reel. Be part of a global audience. Stay tuned for 2018 dates and featured films. Utah State University, 435-797-3264, BanffCentre.ca

NPS

Delta Snow Goose Fest

(Feb. 23-24, 2018) Cheer on the 3,000-mile journey of majestic snow geese as they descend on the Clear Lake Wildlife Area. The whoosh of wings and deep chattering of 10,000 migrating fowl provide the perfect location for a camera or video shoot. No need to trek into the wild to seek out wildlife—the birds come to you in just a couple hours’ drive from the city. Gather to celebrate with arts & crafts, a wild goose chase, skeet shoots and water plunges. Dress warm, stock up on hot toddies, and share a spotting scope with a Division of Wildlife Resources biologist. There is plenty to discover in Delta and at the Gunnison Bend Reservoir—including Little Sahara Sand Dune—so mark your calendar for this engaging event that’s free for all ages. At press time, the date is tentative. Gunnison Bend Reservoir, 435-864-4316, Delta.Utah.gov, UtahOutdoorActivities.com

ROGUE DIGITAL

Northern Utah Winter Faire

(Dec. 1-3, 2017) Here, you’ll find a gathering of creativity and play that brings a winter fairytale to life with some unconventional costuming. Now in its fourth year, the faire pays tribute to bygone times with medieval sword fights and armed combat. Attendees deck themselves out in elaborate costumes portraying beloved characters. It’s a great way to blow up your tumblr with cosplay photos. Fans can visit with Santa and participate in dancing, arts, crafts, classes, quests and more. Why hold out for summer festivals when you can get thee hence anon? Legacy Events Center, 151 S. 1100 West, Farmington, UtahWinterFaire.com

JOE FELDMAN

Alta Torchlight Parade

34 | Vamoose Utah • Winter2017

(Dec. 31, 2017) Alta’s mountain runs make this year-end celebration worth a festival mention. Join the parade. Grab your glow sticks, headlamps and torches and jump on the lift to ring in the New Year. Create memories as the glow descends the mountain like a wild flow of energy, meeting up with crowds on the plaza. All ages buzz around fire pits with hot cocoa and adult beverages. Bonuses include one of the area’s darkest skies in which to gaze at stars, easily accessible with a quick canyon drive. Bid farewell to the old year at the stroke of midnight, all while nestled in the mountains as outdoor dance parties, fireworks and fun blow up all around you. Auld Lang Syne, my friends. Alta Ski Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon, 801-3591078, Alta.com

“We simply need that wild country available to us, even if we never do more than drive to its edge and look in. For it can be a means of reassuring ourselves of our sanity as creatures, a part of the geography of hope.” —Wallace Stegner from his December 1960 “Wilderness Letter”

Last

LOOK

BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK

BRIAN B - NPS

Get out, get going and just go.

Winter 2017• Vamoose Utah |

36 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;¢ Winter2017