Vamoose Utah December 2019 by Copperfield Publishing

VOL.5 NO.10 • DECEMBER 2019

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YURT CAMPING IN WINTER

DREAMING SOUTHERN UTAH HAS THE BREWS!

OF A DESERT

CHRISTMAS

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 1

2 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;˘ December 2019

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December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 3

INSIDE

Zion National Park

18 CHASING A DREAM

BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

BY CHRIS VANOCUR

Always brewing up adventure, Southern Utah now has a craft beer with your name on it

14 WELL ROUNDED

Yurt lodging offers unique winter getaways that transport you in time BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN

4 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

Rancho Luna Lobos is a home for rescued dogs that find a second life as part of sled team

20 DESERT NOSHING

A St. George foodie getaway BY LIZZIE CAWLEY

24 VAMOOSE GIFT GUIDE

Budget friendly picks for everyone on your ‘nice’ list BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF

29 RUBBED THE WRONG WAY

Sculptures in Utah abound, but some are more well-loved than others BY JOHN RASMUSON COURTESY OF RED MOUNTAIN RESORT

8 TAPPING INTO WINTER

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December 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Vamoose Utah | 5

VOL.5 NO.10 • DECEMBER 2019

CONTRIBUTORS

GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO

STAFF

PUBLISHER DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS

EDITORIAL

EDITOR PROOFREADERS CONTRIBUTORS

PRODUCTION ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC ARTIST

BUSINESS/OFFICE

ASSOCIATE BUSINESS MANAGER OFFICE ADMINISTRATORS TECHNICAL DIRECTOR

CIRCULATION

CIRCULATION MANAGER

SALES

SALES DIRECTOR, EVENTS DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES RETAIL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

John Saltas Pete Saltas

Jerre Wroble Lance Gudmundsen, Megan Wagstaff Lizzie Cawley, Kathleen Curry, Geoff Griffin, John Rasmuson Chris Vanocur, Megan Wagstaff

John Rasmuson spends his days trying to put the right words in the right order. He wrote a column for City Weekly for 12 years that won awards every now and then when he got the words just right.

Sofia Cifuentes Chelsea Neider, Jennifer Terry

Paula Saltas David Adamson, Samantha Herzog Bryan Mannos

Eric Granato

Kyle Kennedy Anna Papadakis Doug Kruithof, Kathy Mueller Kelly Boyce, Michelle Engstrand

When she’s not busy perfecting her breakfast hash, you’ll find writer and SLC-native Megan Wagstaff on her snowboard or stand-up paddle board. On living downtown, Wagstaff says, “My actual backyard is the size of a postage stamp, but it’s so easy to get to the mountains. It’s the best of both worlds.”

On the cover: The Narrows in Zion National Park courtesy of Utah Office of Tourism Copyright © 2017 by Matt Hage. All rights reserved Distributed free of charge throughout the Wasatch Front while supplies last. Additional copies of Vamoose Utah are available at the Vamoose offices: 175 W. 200 South, Ste. 100, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 801-716-1777 VamooseUtah.com

@vamooseutah

6 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

@vamooseutah

Lizzie Cawley grew up in a home where beautifully crafted food was a primary love language. She now spends her days scouring the local foodie scene and teaching high school English. If not that, look for her hiking in the luscious Utah mountains or the dry Arizona xeriscape of her hometown, Centennial Park, Ariz.

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

The F irst Snow

iving at high altitude beside a granite-topped mountain range crowned with ski resorts always makes that first blanketing of snow special. Even if winter sports are not your jam, the first snowfall signals the end of hiking on crunchy leaves. No more raking said leaves. The garden is now at rest, and at long last, you can pull out the accoutrements of winter fun: sleds, skates, skis, boards, parkas, gloves, hats and boots. And should you be unwilling to forsake all summer activities, you still have the option to relive summer’s glory with the mild temperatures, less-crowded national parks and small-town frolics of Southern Utah’s red-rock country. To that end, this “Winter” issue of Vamoose Utah is all about kicking the season off in high gear—“gear” being the operative word. Megan Wagstaff compiled a gift guide of 20 items (sold by Utah companies) sure to make the adventurers on your shopping list grin from ear to ear. They range from stocking stuffers, outdoor gear, fuel for the journey and ways to unwind, and are all priced at less than $100. In this month’s Weekend Warrior, Geoff Griffin and Kathleen Curry have discovered a new reason to tour Southern Utah: craft beer! Really? That’s right, with breweries cropping up in the most unlikely places—Silver Reef Brewing Co. in St. George, Policy Kings Brewery in Cedar City, Zion Brewery in Springdale and Edge of the World Brewery in Colorado City, Ariz.—there are now multiple ways to slake your thirst after a day of desert adventure. Along with brewpubs, St. George and nearby towns now offer

a veritable foodies’ haven, as Lizzie Cawley points out in “I’m Dreaming of a Desert Christmas.” Many already are clued into the exquisite food and atmosphere of the quaint Painted Pony and the diner specials at the popular Bear Paw Café, but Cawley highlights an abundance of eateries—from Italian and Asian to coffee shops and bakeries—also worthy of a visit the next time you’re touring St. George. And speaking of adventure, have you booked a stay at a yurt lately? A year-round lodging and dining option, Griffin and Curry highlight their favorite yurts throughout the state. Chris Vanocur went to the dogs in this issue, spending time at Park City’s Rancho Luna Lobos, a home for rescued dogs that are then trained as sled dogs. A dog sled ride should be on everyone’s bucket list, especially when the team giving the ride are the wellloved canines at Rancho Luna Lobos. Finally, for those who think winter is best enjoyed indoors exploring local museums, John Rasmuson ponders the subject of Utah statues and the seemingly uncontrollable urge by some art patrons to reach out and touch. In Utah, many have seen (and possibly even rubbed) the nose of Abe Lincoln at the Utah Capitol. So many have found Abe’s schnozz simply irresistible that a “Do Not Touch” sign was needed, which many ignore. There’s no shortage of ways to fall in love with winter. Take Vamoose Utah along for the ride to embrace the season and make the most of our bluebird days, on or off the slopes. —Jerre Wroble

R. DEREK SMITH COURTESY OF UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

Salt Lake City skyline with the snowcapped Wasatch Range

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 7

WEEKEND WARRIOR

Tapping Into

Winter

Always brewing up adventure, Southern Utah has a craft beer with your name on it

A winter’s hike in Snow Canyon

BY KATHLEEN CURRY AND GEOFF GRIFFIN

8 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

COURTESY OF VISIT UTAH BY UTAH STATE PARK SERVICE

he Southern Utah getaway weekend has long been a way to survive the dark, cold, inversion-filled winter months along the Wasatch Front. It’s a relatively easy drive south on Interstate 15 to bask in the sunshine while surrounded by the beautiful settings of national and state parks. This winter, there’s another reason to head south when it snows—craft beer. In 2018, craft breweries opened in Cedar City, St. George and just over the border in Colorado City, Ariz. This new trio, coupled with the well-established Zion Brewery, can be added to the list of reasons to make the drive into the sunshine when you’ve had enough of the snow.

Thursday

•••

COURTESY OF VISIT UTAH

Main Street in downtown Cedar City

Policy Kings Brewery in Cedar City

COURTESY OF POLICY KINGS BREWERY

Head south on I-15 for 250 miles until you reach Cedar City. Your first stop is Policy Kings Brewery (223 N. 100 West, Cedar City, PolicyKingsBrewery.com) where Deandre and Sara Ridgel operate their mom-and-pop brewery. Stop in to try their Pale Ale or Midnight IPA, or whatever else might happen to be on tap since it’s a small brewery with regular changes to its offerings. Opened in late 2018, Policy Kings also has a bar license, but it feels like a coffee shop that happens to serve beer. It’s light and airy and has free Wi-Fi. At this point, they don’t serve food, but local food trucks are often found parked outside, and you’re welcome to bring food in or have it delivered. If you decide to eat elsewhere, check out Centro Woodfired Pizzeria (50 W. Center St., Cedar City, 435867-8123, CentroPizzeria.com), a Cedar City staple since opening in 2012. Try a classic Margherita or the Dolce Diavola, which combines the spicy tastes of calabrese and hot cherry peppers with the sweetness of whipped ricotta and honey, proving their pies are every bit as inspired as they are tasty. Save room for a dessert of Nutella Piegato. All you need to know is that it’s pizza dough filled with Nutella which is then cooked over a wood fire. Spend the night at Big Yellow Inn Bed and Breakfast (234 S. 300 West, Cedar City, 435-586-0960, BigYellowInn.com), where each of the dozen rooms features full baths, TVs and Wi-Fi. Some even have jacuzzi tubs.

COURTESY OF POLICY KINGS BREWERY

Afternoon

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 9

• ••

Friday

Morning

COURTESY OF RED MOUNTAIN RESORT

Red Mountain Resort

COURTESY OF RED MOUNTAIN RESORT

Treat yourself to a warm stone massage at Red Mountain Resort

To start the day, the Big Yellow Inn serves up full breakfasts including eye-openers such as bacon, cheese frittata, waffles and apple crisps. Keep heading south to enjoy a day at Snow Canyon State Park (1002 Snow Canyon Drive, Ivins, 435-628-2255, StateParks.Utah.gov/parks/ snow-canyon). There are two ways to get there: One way is to travel south on I-15, exit in St. George at St. George Boulevard and work your way through town to head north on State Route 18 to Ivins. This trip takes about an hour. The other way is to head west out of Cedar City on State Route 56 until you arrive at Beryl Junction. Take a left and head south on State Route 18 through the towns of Enterprise and Veyo. This route takes an hour and 20 minutes. Whichever way you go, the desert landscape of Snow Canyon State Park, with its sand dunes, lava beds and red sandstone, makes a great place to explore during the winter months whether by bike or on foot.

Night

After a day of adventure in the park, St. George’s entry onto the craft brew scene is Silver Reef Brewing (StGeorgeBev.com, facebook.com/ drinksilverreef), which opened in 2018. Their brews include the Agua Del Diablo Mexican-style lager and Color Country Red Ale, which contains notes of berry, banana and plum. Silver Reef products are available in cans in stores and on draft in bars in northern and Southern Utah, but they do not have their own pub or bar. Look for Silver Reef brews to be on the taps at the St. George location of ’Bout Time Pub & Grub (929 W. Sunset Blvd., St. George, 435-673-3607, BoutTimePub.com). Pair a Silver Reef brew with plates of shared appetizers such as Philly Cheesesteak egg rolls or deep-fried, bacon-wrapped olives. If you enjoyed the views earlier in the day at Snow Canyon State Park, consider taking them in at sunrise or sunset when you are staying just outside the park at Red Mountain Resort (1275 Red Mountain Circle, Ivins, 435-673-4905, RedMountainResort.com). Check into a room with a view, and consider booking a treatment at their well-known spa.

COURTESY OF RED MOUNTAIN RESORT

Biking in Snow Canyon

10 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

Saturday

••••

FLICKR NIEMAND FÜR POLYPHEMUS

Surf’s up at Sand Hollow Reservoir

Morning

Before leaving Red Mountain, check out their onsite Canyon Breeze Restaurant, where you’ll find mesquite flour pancakes topped with prickly-pear syrup for breakfast. Today, you’ll be leaving the area of Snow Canyon State Park west of St. George and heading over to Sand Hollow State Park (3351 Sand Hollow Road, Hurricane, 435-680-0715, S t ate P a r k s .U t a h . g ov/p a r k s /s a n d - h ol l ow ) . Return to St. George and take I-15 heading north. In about seven miles, take Exit 16 to access State Route 9, heading east. Continue on SR-9 toward Hurricane before taking a right on Sand Hollow Road. Drive south four miles to arrive at Sand Hollow State Park. The entire 25-mile drive takes about 35 minutes. This 20,000-acre park opened in 2003. More than 1,000 of those acres are covered by the waters of the Sand Hollow Reservoir, which offers year-round recreation. The 15,000 acres of red sand dunes are also a popular destination for off-road enthusiasts.

Night

After a day of sun, sand and placid waters, your next stop on the craft beer tour is in Colorado City, Ariz. Yes, that Colorado City. No, seriously. Leave Sand Hollow and head back north to SR-9, traveling east through the town of Hurricane. On the east side of Hurricane, you’ll pick up State Route 59 and head southeast until you arrive at the Arizona border and Colorado City. The 35-mile drive takes about 40 minutes. Technically, Edge of the World Brewery (70 N. Central St., Colorado City, Ariz., 928-875-8710, EdgeOfTheWorld.bar) isn’t a Southern Utah brewery, because it’s located on the Arizona side of the border across from Hildale. But, as long as you’re in this unique border town, you may as well check it out. Edge of the World opened in 2018 and is known for beers such as its Raspberry Porter and a Petrified Porter. If you have a hard time picking just one, order a flight. The brewery also features a restaurant that serves sandwiches, salads and pizzas, including a Four Corners-version that features two slices each of four different types of pizza. If the weather allows, consider spending the night under the stars (sort of) when you drive a couple of miles back across the border to Colorado City’s twin town of Hildale. Zion Luxury Camping (North Cottonwood Street West, Hildale, Utah, 435-363-9553, ZionLuxuryCamping.com) offers 1,000-squarefoot “glamping” spots with a BBQ grill, fire pit and table. Inside the tents, you’ll find a king-size bed with fresh sheets along with a shower and towels. December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 11

•••

Sunday

Zion National Park

Morning

Head back over the Arizona border to Berry Knoll Bakery (80 N. Central St., Colorado City, 928-875-8686, BerryKnollBakery.com), which happens to be next door to the brewery you tried last night. Consider ordering the frosted cinnamon roll topped with chocolate chips, which pairs nicely with a Narrows specialty coffee with flavors of caramel, hazelnut, sea salt and white chocolate. Today, you’ll head over to Zion National Park (NPS.gov/zion) via State Route 59, which connects with SR-9 in Hurricane—an hourlong trip that takes you to the west entrance of the park. Another way to access the park is by heading east through Kanab and entering from the eastern side. Either way, winter is a great time to visit Zion because both the temperatures and crowds are moderate. Whatever amount of time you end up spending in the park, save an hour or two to stop by Zion Canyon Brew Pub (95 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-0336, ZionBrewery.com), located outside the western entrance of the park, where you can enjoy the handcrafted beers of Zion Brewery. As Southern Utah’s first microbrewery (established in 2006), the brewery’s offerings range from a sour Foray Pomegranate to a fruity Zion Pale Ale or the Coffee Conviction Stout nitro. You can also experience their beers cooked into many of the brew pub’s dishes. The Conviction stout is used in the signature Stout Stew, while the British favorite—bangers and mash—has brats soaked in Zion’s Jamaican Lager. After a beer-enriched lunch or dinner on the beer garden patio, be sure to have designated driver for the return trip home to Salt Lake City.

12 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

COURTESY PHOTO

Zion Brewery

December 2019 â&#x20AC;˘ Vamoose Utah | 13

WELL

ROUNDED Yurt lodging offers unique winter getaways that transport you in time BY KATHLEEN CURRY AND GEOFF GRIFFIN

hen the Mongolians set up the first yurts in Central Asia some 3,000 years ago, they were definitely on to something. Angle wood and bamboo into a circular structure, wrap animal skins around it, and you’ve got the perfect way to keep warm while out staying in the wilderness in the middle of winter. Fast forward to the 21st-century, and yurts are still a great place to spend a cold night when you’re traveling. Yurt options in Utah range from picturesque surroundings in state parks, to “glamping” level yurts or to those in remote locations that can

only be reached in the winter by snowmobile, snowshoes or skis. Not only are they cozy, they are affordable, with prices ranging from $75/night at some state parks to $165/night for more nicely furnished AirBnB properties. If you’re not ready to go for a full night, a yurt can be the perfect place for a four-hour, European-style dinner at local ski resorts. Check out these five options that can be found in the Beehive State.

COURTESY OF UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM

Yurt at Goblin Valley

14 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

Goblin Valley

Sleeping With Goblins

COURTESY OF VISIT UTAH | MICHAEL KUNDE PHOTO

In 2011, Goblin Valley became the first state park to offer yurt camping. The park’s two yurts feature heat and air-conditioning, as well as sleeping arrangements for multiple guests. All cooking is done outdoor with propane grills provided. There are also outdoor decks and fire rings. Water can be pumped outside, and there are pit toilets by the road, just yards from both yurts. The best thing about this stay is you’re surrounded by the famous “goblin” rock formations for which the park is named. Goblin Valley State Park, Goblin Valley Road, Green River, 435275-4584, StateParks.Utah.gov/ parks/goblin-valley

East Canyon State Park yurt

COURTESY OF VISIT UTAH

Reliving History

East Canyon State Park is less than an hour’s drive from Salt Lake City, and a yurt here overlooks the 600-acre reservoir that sits along the historic Mormon Pioneer Trail. The heated and powered yurts have bunk beds, pullouts and futons that can be arranged to sleep up to eight. The yurts are close to the road as well as restrooms. Decks feature gas grills where you can cook, and fire pits are also available. East Canyon State Park Yurts, 5535 S. Highway 66, Morgan, 801-829-6686, SkatePark.Utah.gov/parks/east-canyon

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 15

Off the Beaten Trail

Yurt Among the Red Rocks

Viking Yurt at Park City

COURTESY OF THE VIKING YURT

For those looking to add a little more comfort to a yurt getaway, check out the “glamping” at Escalante Yurts. These sit among juniper trees on 20 privately-owned acres. Each yurt comes with a private bathroom complete with a shower. Five of the yurts are 450-square feet, have a king-size bed, and can sleep up to four. The two 900-square-foot yurts can sleep up to seven. Amenities include gas grills, mini-fridges, coffee makers and microwaves. They’ll even deliver continental breakfast to your yurt in the morning. Once the day gets going, recreation possibilities abound as Escalante is located close to Bryce Canyon National Park and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Escalante Yurts, 1605 N. Pine Creek Road, Escalante, 844-200-9878, EscalanteYurts.com

Escalante Yurts

COURTESY OF ESCALANTE YURTS

For those looking to find adventure just getting to the yurt, this one sits six miles from the nearest parking lot. In the winter, it can be reached by snowmobile, snowshoe or cross-country skiing, and once you’ve spent a night in the yurt, you’re surrounded by a great landscape for recreating snow the next day. Camp Mill Hollow, which has been around since 1964, was purchased by the YMCA of Northern Utah in 2017 and is the organization that rents out the yurt. Inside the yurt, which has four bunk beds that can sleep eight, you’ll find a wood stove for heating. Open the trap door and there’s firewood waiting underneath. Mill Hollow Yurt, 7480 S. Mill Hollow Road, Kamas, 801-839-3379, YMCAUtah.org/millhollow/rental

Nordic Fine Dining

If you don’t feel ready to spend a full night in a yurt or face miles of snow to get there, what about a four-hour dinner where you’re hauled up the mountain in a sleigh? The evening starts when you ascend 1,800 vertical feet up the mountain in a sleigh pulled by a snow-cat. The 23-minute ride allows for beautiful views of the Park City area below. 16 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

When you arrive, you’ll be greeted with a glass of “glogg,” a hot, non-alcoholic, spiced berry drink. That’s the first of six courses you’ll taste during a four-hour dining experience that features an entree of braised short ribs with red wine loganberry braising jus. The Viking Yurt, Park City Mountain Resort, Legacy Lodge, 435-615-9878, VikingYurt.com

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A Utah Family Business Offering media solutions for your digital, print and event endeavours. The mining community of Copperfield was set in world famous Bingham Canyon, high in the Oquirrh Mountains. In 1906, the Saltas family joined those Copperfield residents in the steep hillside, shanty area, called Greek Camp. Copperfield was home to thousands of melting pot immigrants including Greeks, Japanese, Mexicans, Germans, Swedes, Brits and many other ethnicities all bound to common American values of family, faith, education, hard work and community. They shared many good times, often tempered by the frequent bad times derived of dangerous mining work. Copperfield is now gone, scraped away by mining.

But the Copperfield spirit remains alive in everything we do, from newspapers and magazines to events and digital services. We work hard for each other and for the large communities of readers—online and in print—who value honesty and stories told well. We will keep telling stories—your stories—as long as people keep reading. And wouldn’t it be a shame if they didn’t read? We don’t think that will happen, so meanwhile, turn a page, or many pages, in one of Copperfield Publishing’s growing catalog of Utah award-winning publications. We are all the community of Utah. Enjoy.  John Saltas Founder

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 17

DR eam Chasing a

Rancho Luna Lobos is a home for rescued dogs who find a second life as part of a sled team BY CHRIS VANOCUR

in common. They are orphans. Some 85% of Luna Lobos dogs are rescues. The way Fernando explains it, he wanted to be a dog sledder at an early age. But his mom told him if he was going to race, he had to take care of the rescues, too. So, this is what he and Dana do. They feed, train and love dogs who have been deserted by their previous owners. This may be why, as part of the sledding experience, visitors are first introduced to the rescues. The cacophony of dozens of barking dogs living side-by-side can be a little deafening, but also kind of cute. Going kennel to kennel, one thing quickly becomes clear: These dogs are much loved and greatly valued members of the Rancho Luna Lobos family. In fact, some pooches even live in very impressive doghouses. These deluxe dog digs actually have

CHRIS VANOCUR

aybe you can teach an old dog new tricks. Or, as you will soon see, maybe it’s better to say you can teach old dog(s) new tricks. This is my takeaway after visiting Rancho Luna Lobos in Peoa, located in Summit County. The ranch is about a 15-minute drive from Park City. Although somewhat remote, you can easily get there by using Google Maps. It’s owned and operated by the married team of Fernando and Dana Ramirez. Their spread sits upon 55 isolated, scenic acres. Over just a handful of years, the two have created a home for their family of seven and also groomed an impressive network of trails for dog sledding. After all, the real stars of this story are the Luna Lobos dogs. All 57 of them. While not all are sledders, most share something

18 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

CHRIS VANOCUR

Fernando and Dana Ramirez with their Luna Lobos dogs

The winter sledding price is $140 for adults and $125 for children 9 and under for a 1 to 1-1⁄2 hour ride. Bookings fill up quickly. The ranch also offers doggie daycare and boarding. There is even a summer camp for kids and a children’s book written about one of their dogs called Humberto the Blind Sled Dog. Humberto still lives at the ranch and, I can personally assure you, he is a very good boy. Finally, as for another old dog learning new tricks, I came to the ranch expecting to write a simple, straightforward story about dog sledding. But what I found instead was more complex and more nuanced. Turns out, this is actually a hound heaven on earth, a sanctuary where Dana and Fernando promise their pack will be, “dogs first and sled dogs second.” Thus, the moral of this tale (or tail) may be: Don’t focus just on how fast their four paws move. You should really pay attention to how much heart they have, both the dogs and the humans they watch Glee with. LUNA LOBOS DOG SLEDDING AT RANCHO LUNA LOBOS 4733 BROWNS CANYON ROAD PEOA 435-783-3473 LUNALOBOS.COM

CHRIS VANOCUR

heating and air conditioning. Plus, Netflix. Yup. You read right. Netflix. Dana says the dogs really like musicals, especially Glee. Apparently, it is music to their pointy ears. Some of these rescues have not been treated well in the past. That’s why one of the most sacred rules at the ranch is that dogs are never to be hit or treated roughly. Instead, they are disciplined only through repeated commands and always with affection. And while some canines may still be skittish because of their prior treatment, other older dogs are clearly learning a new, more peaceful way of life. On Labor Day, a small group of us were treated to a training session with their husky racing team. Basically, this involved the dogs sauntering up and down the ranch trails. Fernando and the rest of us followed behind in a jeep. While the sledding teams are a mix of females and males, the lead dog is almost always a female. Fernando tells me they are more trustworthy. As we navigated the dusty trails, the bond between sledder and his pack became obvious. With short commands, the female lead dog on our team (Foxy) responded instantly to Fernando’s directions. The one time Foxy seemed confused by a new trail option, Fernando and Dana patiently (and without touching) showed Foxy the proper way forward. Even though Fernando refers to his sled dogs as athletes, I can tell they are family, too.

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 19

Dreaming of a Desert

A St. George foodie getaway

rving Berlin may have been nostaligic about an old-fashioned winter holiday writing his song “White Christmas.” But that doesn’t mean we have to repeat it year after year. Utahns always have a choice. Stay north for the (hoped for) snow, skiing and sledding or head south for an entirely unique desert holiday. It takes some pluck to toss aside those well-loved traditions of a white Christmas for Southern Utah’s red-rock mesas, temperate weather and breathtaking backdrops of Zion National Park (minus the crush of tourists). But basing yourself out of St. George—a mere four-hour drive from Salt Lake City— you’ll have your pick of a growing number of eateries, bars and brew pubs that make dining out a special occasion. For those dreaming of desert Christmas, here’s how to keep your days merry and bright.

BY LIZZIE CAWLEY

COURTESY OF PAINTED PONY RESTAURANT

Painted Pony’s bone-in pork chop

20 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

St. George’s Historical District

Dotted along St. George Boulevard and Main street are quaint restaurants owned by locals. Ancestor Square and Green Gate Village, both in the heart of downtown St. George, are perfect for a chilly December day walk, shopping and snacking. Ancestor Square is home to numerous food options and is located next to the St. George Art Museum, Opera House and Brigham Young’s winter home. Locals favorites include Benja Thai and Sushi (2 W. St. George Blvd., No. 12, St. George, 435-6289538, BenjaThai.com ), always a hit with its sushi bar, spicy drunken noodles, Thai duck and whole fish, and George’s Corner (2 W. St. George Blvd., No. 1, St. George, 435-2167311, GeorgesCornerRestaurant.com), a historic diner promising “especially good food.” The more upscale Painted Pony Restaurant (2 West St. George Blvd., No. 22, St. George, 435-634-1700, Painted-Pony.com) combines Southwestern flavors, an extensive wine list and innovative culinary touches to make this a perfect special occasion spot or fun evening out.

Enjoy pub grub and regional beers at George’s Corner

A 10-minute walk from Ancestors Square lies Green Gate Village (76 W. Tabernacle St., Saint George, 435-767-7658, GreenGateRetail.com) in the heart of St. George’s historic district. This village is dedicated to shopping and dining out for the whole family. You might feel like you’ve stepped back in time upon entering Judd’s General Store (62 Tabernacle St, St. George, 435-6282596)—the oldest business in town, known for its old-fashioned candy, root beer floats, hearty soups and other local delicacies. If your appetite is set on dinner, consider Chef Alfredo’s (76 Tabernacle St., St. George, 435-656-5000, ChefAlfredos.com), which offers an intimate atmosphere and authentic Italian dishes, including gnocchi with fried prosciutto, fettuccine alfredo and chocolate chip cannoli. Cappeletti’s (36 E. Tabernacle St., St. George, 435-986-4119, CappelettisRestaurantStGeorge.com), also a family-owned eatery down the street from Green Gate Village, is praised for its chicken marsala, cioppino and alfredo—scrumptious Italian dishes that are made with an Argentine flair. All of the above-mentioned restaurants— from Painted Pony to Cappeletti’s—are within walking distance of one another.

COURTESY OF GEORGE’S CORNER

Green Gate Village and surrounding restaurants

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 21

Breakfast, Bakeries and Coffee Shops

For a family-owned gourmet eatery known for unforgettable cupcakes, check out TwentyFive Main Café (25 N. Main St., St. George, 435-628-7110, 25main.com). With made-from-scratch meals, salads, paninis and frittatas, it’s a cozy stop on your holiday getaway. As for the cupcakes, whether you choose the cinnamon roll cupcake, white chocolate raspberry cupcake or the holiday cupcake, you’re sure to leave feeling satisfied and wanting one to go. Having breakfast at the Bear Paw Café (75 N. Main St., St. George, 435-634-0126) is a must, but if you stop here on a weekend, you may be in for a wait (pro-tip: Plan to eat here on a weekday). This quaint diner is a favorite of locals. Bear Paw Café Massive breakfast portions include fan-favorites such as the Denver omelet, stuffed French toast, pecan pancakes and the trapper’s quiche. If you’d like to hang with the eclectic people of St. George, you should plan a stop at Affogato West (214 N. 1000 East, St. George, 801-898-9378, AffogatoWest.com), a coffee shop located in a renovated movie theater that serves up warm drinks “infused with love and chaos.” Owner Elise West prioritizes community and acceptance. Anyone entering her café leaves feeling rejuvenated and caffeinated. Last Christmas, the barista team created holiday drinks including “Bark The Herald Angels Sing,” and “Jolly Jelly Java Stick.” Croshaw’s Pies (175 W. 900 South, St. George, 435-628-1700, CroshawsPies.net) is the answer to any holiday dessert cravings. Producing gourmet desserts since 1991, Croshaw’s sells 34 flavors of homestyle fruit pies, cream pies and seasonal pies. Try the sumptuous sour cream lemon and French apple. They also serve chicken, turkey or beef pot pies along with mini pies and sugar-free pies.

Outside of town

If you’re dreaming of a desert Christmas, then a visit Snow Canyon State Park (1002 Snow Canyon Drive, Ivins, 435628-2255, StateParks.utah.gov/parks/snow-canyon) is a must. After a few hours of hiking or biking and taking in the views, you can visit one of Southern Utah’s best-kept culinary secrets—Xeteva Gardens Café (815 Coyote Gulch Court, Ivins, 435-656-0165, Xetava.com). Located in Kayenta Art Village, Xeteva’s menu highlights local fresh ingredients. Diners can’t go wrong with Cajun flash-fried Brussels sprouts dipped in homemade peach chutney or butter poached salmon tacos. The cocktail menu lists housemade Sangria de Rachel (blend of red wines and fermented fruits) and the Drunken Iceberg (natural lemonade blended with vanilla, coconut, fresh mint and champagne). It’s just the place to relax and enjoy your surroundings. A short drive from St. George is Zion National Park (1 Zion Park Blvd., State Route 9, Springdale, 435-772-3256, NPS.gov/zion), one of America’s most visited national parks, and one often better appreciated in the winter when the crowds have thinned out. After hiking to Angel’s Landing or Weeping Rock Trail, visit Oscar’s Café (948 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435772-3232, OscarsCafe.com) in nearby Springdale and enjoy local brews and fresh dishes with a Mexican flair. Favorites include the chili verde burrito, pesto quesadilla and the larger-than-life Volcano Brownie Sundae. Many families dream of a white Christmas along the Wasatch Front, but a trip to Southern Utah could be the start of a new holiday tradition. Lean into your dreams of Yuletide dining and excursions among the red mountains of this desert wonderland.

Oscar’s Café, Springdale

22 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

STORE ★★★★★

GIFT CERTIFICATES TO UTAH’S FINEST DEVOURUTAHSTORE.COM December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 23

GI F T 2019 Budget-friendly picks for everyone on your ‘nice’ list BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF

hopping for adventurers can get downright pricey. But before you resort to buying another pair of snowboard socks (not that we wouldn’t appreciate more Smartwools—wink, wink), consider these outdoor-inspired options anyone on your list will be happy to find under the tree. All 20 picks are under $100 and created by or available from local Utah retailers.

24 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

for

Stockings 1

4 3

1 Wild Tree Landscape Camera Strap, $27

St. George’s Meg Brown—freelance designer and co-owner of Wild Tree—has won our hearts (and wallets) this holiday season with her stunning collection of camera straps. If your “nice” list includes a photographer, these seven landscape designs capture the spirit of the outdoors with pine trees, mountains and desert cacti. Forget neckties and knit scarves—we’d much rather unwrap one of these beauties on Christmas morning. Wild Tree WildTreeOutdoor.com

2 Chums Large Retractor ID Holder, $4.99

Sure, Chums makes sure your eyewear stays secure, but a more accurate description of

what they do would be this: Chums makes sure you don’t lose your sh%#... literally. So for the roomie who can never find his season pass or constantly leaves his jacket pockets unzipped, do him a solid and gift the Retractor ID Holder. Then, say goodbye to days waiting at the top of the tram while he runs back to the car, or ordering a round of aprés bevvys at Molly Greens only to find he lost his ID. Chums 2424 S. 2570 West, SLC, 800-222-2486, Chums.com

3 N.BX Tape Lights, $16

If you thought headlamps were handy, you haven’t tried the Tape Light from N.BX. Ideal as a stocking stuffer, these go-anywhere, rechargeable lights have infinite uses, not only for your camping buddies, but for dad’s toolbox and

kids as well. With both high and low settings and up to 36 hours of output, unspool 18 inches of LED lights like you would a tape measure, then fully retract for compact storage. Available in six colors—why not get one for everyone in the fam? N.BX 6100 S. Highway 66, Morgan, 800-516-3409, LiveNoBox.com

4 W & P Design Do Something Dice, $12

In the Vamoose spirit of “Get out. Get going. Just go.” we can’t resist the whimsical Do Something Dice found at 9th & 9th anchor The Stockist. Gift this set to the indecisive peeps in your group and make the next outing a no-brainer. With dice for dining, nightlife, sightseeing and exercise, it’s easy to choose what to do. Up the ante and roll multiple die

to plan a whole day or evening on the town. Now, get going already! The Stockist, 875 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-532-3458, TheStockistShop.com

5 Fullgive Cordita Leather Cord Keeper, $7.99

The fellas at Fullgive, run byScott Rawlings and headquarted in Vineyard in Utah County, have been crafting handmade leather goods and selling them on Etsy since 2009. Our personal fave for stocking stuffing is the Cordita, a stylish cord keeper perfect for wrangling wayward phone chargers and headphones, available in five colors. Also featured by local design debutantes cityhomeCollective, this gift is in high demand, so shop early.

Fullgive Etsy.com/people/fullgive

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 25

Adventure for

5 1

1 Cotopaxi Luzon 24L Backpack, $70

Looking for a one-of-a-kind gift? Each Cotopaxi Luzon backpack has a totally unique colorway, so no two are alike. Currently, the Luzon is on back order, but the guys at Cotopaxi promise this fan favorite will be back in stock for the holidays, complete with a hydration reservoir and spare zippered pocket for wet or dirty gear (genius) in lightweight mesh and nylon for easy stowing. Cotopaxi 74 S. Main, SLC, 385-528-0855, Cotopaxi.com

2 Barebones Portable USB Charger, $20

For your friend whose phone is always dead or your spouse who’s never really off the clock, it’s hard to beat the convenience and reliability of a portable USB charger. What makes this one so great is its ergonomic, low-profile design and bonus LED light in a durable aluminum case. Originally created as a backup power source for the company’s camping lights, it works with any USB-compatible device. 26 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

Barebones 1215 Wilmington Ave, Ste. 140, SLC, 801-649-3088, BareBonesLiving.com

3 Recreation Outlet Microfiber Towel, $7.99

If I had a dollar for every time I wish I had a towel in the car (wiping down boards after SUPing, loading up a muddy golden retriever at the dog park, spilling a dirty soda from Swig all over the center console), we’ll, I’d have enough dollars to buy this microfiber towel and it’s convenient mesh stuff sack from Utah’s favorite outdoor retail outlet. A great gift your recipient can stash in the back seat, this 24-inch by 48-inch backup towel is guaranteed to get used.

Recreation Outlet Multiple locations, RecreationOutlet.com

4 Skullcandy Vert Clip-Anywhere Wireless Earbuds, $79.99

Remember when Skullcandy headphones first came on the scene and every shredder was

rocking the brand’s classic Icon design? Let’s introduce you to the 2019 favorite, the Vert. These low-profile, high-end earbuds feature Bluetooth technology, but unlike Apple earbuds that will inevitably get lost (try finding those in the snow), the Vert clips on anywhere—jackets, goggle straps, backpacks—to ensure that when the recipient of this gift gets to the bottom of the hill, their headphones will, too. Skullcandy 6301 N. Landmark Drive, Park City, 888-697-5855, SkullCandy.com

5 Hand Out Gloves FUGAZI Sport Mitten, $75

You know when you buy a gift for someone and then regret not buying one for yourself? This is that gift. Jake Sullivan and his crew over at Hand Out Gloves have completely changed the game when it comes to keeping your hands warm on the hill. Take the new FUGAZI Sport Mitten for example, with patented zipper technology to free all five fingers when your phone rings on the lift without having to worry about

dropping your mitt, plus a convenient pass pocket on the wrist for easy scanning at the gate. Hand Out Gloves Multiple locations, 385-240-1112| HandOutGloves.com

6 Gregory Stash Duffel Bags, starting at $52.46

Ah, the duffel bag. The most overlooked and underappreciated of all luggage. And yet, how many times have you wished for one when packing for a weekend getaway or looking for a convenient way to “stash” all your extra gear? Cue the Stash, available in four different sizes, from local bag pros Gregory Mountain Products. With a lifetime guarantee and ballistic fabric panel on the bottom, nobody has to worry about rips and tears. And with backpack-style shoulder straps, it’s the most comfortable duffle any of your friends or family could want.

Gregory Mountain Products 4640 S. Holladay Village Plaza, No. 210, SLC, 877-477-4292, GregoryPacks.com

Fuel Up 4

1 Samak Smoke House Adventure Cooler Gift, $55

Samak Smoke House, located at the base of the Uintas in Kamas, have given the traditional holiday gift basket an outdoorsy twist by packing their famous Samak Stickies homemade granola bars, local jerky, dried fruit, pistachios and your choice of Country Biscotti or Pine Nut Harvest Cookies in a reusable cooler any adventurer on your list will enjoy. Bonus: If you make the drive there, the folks at Samak will customize a gift package for you while you enjoy a steaming hot latte by the fire. Samak Smoke House 1937 Mirror Lake Highway, Kamas, 435-783-4880, SamakSmokeHouse.com

2 ProBar Meal Variety Pack, $39.99

Lunchtime on the slopes presents the dilemma of coughing up $20 for a sandwich vs. carrying around a PB&J in a Ziplock your pocket (spoiler alert: It will be squished and half frozen by the time you

eat it). That’s why you need to give the snow bunnies on your list ProBar. These guys make a damn good meal supplement that delivers lasting energy in 12 flavors we promise taste better than any other bar out there. Hey, if it’s good enough to be a partner of the U.S. Ski & Snowboard Team, it’s good enough for us. ProBar Multiple locations, 800-921-2294, TheProBar.com

3 All You Can Greek: Food, Life, Travel by Eleni Saltas, $30

Food is an integral part of the adventurer’s lifestyle. Not only is it fuel for the next summit, food can embody the terroir of a nostalgic locale, favorite region, or, in Eleni Saltas’ case, her heritage. The daughter of our publisher, John Saltas, Eleni wrote All You Can Greek as both a travel guide and cookbook. It features not only mouthwatering recipes for skordalia and Eleni’s yiayia’s orzo but it’s filled with gorgeous photos and must-see lists, including top

Greek beaches and historic sights. As an exercise and sport science major who puts healthy foods high on her list, Saltas’ dishes are our go-to Mediterranean faves for a long life. Yamas! The King’s English Bookshop 1511 S. 1500 East, SLC, 801-484-9100,

KingsEnglish.com

4 Wild West Jerky Holiday Sampler, $55

Shopping for a carnivore this season? You can’t go amiss with chewy, salty, mouthwatering jerky. The only problem is deciding which flavor to choose. Luckily, our friends at Wild West Jerky pick for you with The Holiday Sampler, featuring nine 2-ounce portions of bestsellers like honey BBQ buffalo, lemon peppered elk, Mesquite venison, cracked pepper turkey, BBQ pork, and, of course, natural beef jerky. Is your stomach growling yet?

Wild West Jerky, 100 N. 100 East, Levan, 801-638-6880, WildWestJerky.com

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 27

Unwind 4

1 Klymit Moon Dog Bed, starting at $69.95

If you’ve ever had the misfortune of camping without a sleeping pad, you know it makes for a long, rocky and cold night. The good folks at Kaysville-based Klymit have taken their sleeping pad game a step further with the Moon Dog Bed, an inflatable cushion for your furry friends with a machine-washable, polyester fleece cover and raised side rails to help keep your pup warm and cozy … because you know your sleeping pad isn’t big enough for the both of you. Klymit Outlet 457 Deseret Drive, Kaysville, 801-648-7189, Klymit.com

2 Gibbs Smith National Park Puzzle, $19.99

Growing up, after the holiday dinner dishes were cleared off the dining room table, my mom

28 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

would get out her newest puzzle. Adopt this tradition for your nearest and dearest outdoor lovers when you gift the 1,000-piece National Parks puzzle, which includes vintage-inspired artwork and highlights two of Utah’s own national parks, Zion and Arches. We also love it as an addition to your RV for your next rained-out camping trip. Liberty Mountain 9816 S. Jordan Gateway, South Jordan, 801-307-9200, LibertyMountain.com

3 New World Distillery Oomaw Gin, $31.99

Nested between Snowbasin and Powder Mountain ski resorts in the cozy town of Eden you’ll find a hidden gem of a distillery, New World, and their multiple award winning Oomaw Gin. With its juniper-forward flavor lovingly crafted by founder Ashly Cross, it’s our top holiday pick (move over, bourbon). Grab

a bottle at a liquor store near you, or head to the source and shop from the Dark Skies compliant, solar powered distillery, open Tuesday–Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., for tastings and sales. New World Distillery, 4795 E. 2900 North, Eden, 385-244-0144, NewWorldDistillery.com

4 The Kura Door Kura Massage, starting at $90

If someone on your shopping list spends their days making powder turns, they likely could use a massage for all those sore muscles. But because you’re a smart local, you know better than to book an overpriced appointment at a resort spa. For you, there’s the Kura Door, one of the gems of the Avenues. Open until 9:30 p.m., arrive early to take advantage of the spa’s steam room and sauna (unbeatable on a chilly night) before a rubdown with warm oil and essential botanicals.

The Kura Door, 1136 Third Ave., SLC, 801-364-2400, TheKuraDoor.com

5 Utah Cannabis Co. CBD Muscle Rub, $39.95

We all have that one person on our list that is the hardest person to shop for … then Utah Cannabis Co. came along. Whether you’re buying for a diehard skier, a triathlon trainee or someone whose knees just aren’t what they used to be, Santa highly recommends this soothing and relaxing butter with 500 mg of third-party-tested CBD. Bonus ingredients include a moisturizing shea butter base, arnica and comfrey for a THCfree muscle rub that’s this year’s must-have gift. There’s no storefront yet, so order online now.

Utah Cannabis Co. 129 E. 13800 South, Ste. E-2, Box 236, Draper, 801-419-7442, UTCannabisCo.com

THE

The figure of Juliet, sculpted by Nereo Costantini in 1969 located in the courtyard at Juliet’s House in Verona

Sculptures in Utah abound, but some are more well-loved than others BY JOHN RASMUSON

NEREO COSTANTINI (STATUE) MUMMELGRUMMEL (PHOTO)

ho among the tourist hordes visiting Juliet Capulet’s house in Italy has not sidled up to Juliet’s bronze statue and copped a feel of her boob? Not very many. To pass up the opportunity for a fast feel is to forgo the good fortune that Romeo’s girlfriend can bestow, especially to the lovelorn. Her statue was groped so many times, her right breast cracked a few years ago. The Juliet statue is not the only one said to convey good luck. At West Point, an 1869 statue of Gen. John Sedgwick offers help to cadets who find themselves in academic trouble. Those who seek a Sedgwick boost must don their dress uniform, strap on their sword and make their way to the statue the night before finals. If they spin the rowels of the general’s spurs at midnight, they will do well on the next day’s exams. Good luck in the stock market may accrue to those who rub the testicles of “The Charging Bull” statue in Manhattan’s Financial District. So many hopefuls have done so, the bull’s balls are burnished as though King Midas had touched them. It’s less clear what a touch of Abraham Lincoln’s nose offers Utahns. But the evidence is obvious. In the clean, well-lighted space on the fourth floor of the Capitol, the nose on the bust of Lincoln shines brighter than Juliet’s bronze breast. A prominent “Please Do Not Touch” sign has apparently not deterred many a furtive feel since 1929.

December 2019 • Vamoose Utah | 29

JOHN RASMUSON

Abraham Lincoln’s bust (and shiny nose) at the Utah Capitol

Who is fingering Lincoln’s nose? For what benefit? The proximity of legislators’ offices is suggestive. It may be that Republican legislators are fondling Lincoln’s nose for help in sniffing out leftist intrigue in Salt Lake City’s polluted air. Or perhaps Democrats are secretly touching Lincoln’s bust in the hope that some of the 16th president’s forbearance will rub off. If legislators are indeed stroking Honest Abe, it is possible they might be doing the same with George Washington. However, Avard Fairbanks’ bust of Washington at Westminster College puts an end to speculation. There is no sign of shine on the lips that could not tell a lie. Statuary is as much a part of Utah culture as is a well-tended lawn. From the inscrutable (Gilgal Garden) to the religious (Temple Square) to the playful (Library Square), the city’s statues freeze-frame time. Many memorialize such notables as Martha Hughes Cannon in their prime or such events as Brigham Young’s pronouncement at the mouth of Emigration Canyon, “This is the place.” “This is the place” is an evocative clause. Besides the association with Brigham Young, it is invoked often on the sites of historic events around the state. Some of these memorials are more expressive than others. The bronze trout hugging the ground along 2100 South in Sugar House 30 | Vamoose Utah • December 2019

mark habitat forever lost. Beneath them, the stream from Parleys Canyon, where Cutthroat trout once thrived, flows toward the Jordan River in an asphalt-shrouded pipe. A statue can also become problematical—especially in an era of political correctness—as sculptor Jerry Anderson can attest. In two instances, his statues became a lightning rod as a storm of controversy kicked up over southwestern Utah like a monsoon thunderstorm. One was in St. George, five years before the church shooting in Charlestown, S.C., caused memorials of the Confederacy to be scrutinized. Dixie State College took down an Anderson statue called “Rebels.” The $35,000 statue of two Confederate soldiers with a Confederate flag, commissioned in the 1980s, was deemed a liability in Dixie State’s campaign to gain university status. (The school had retired its Confederate soldier mascot, Rodney the Rebel, in 2005, replacing him with Brooks the Bison a few years later.) “It was a kick in the pants,” said Anderson. “One hundred percent of people felt bad about ‘Rebels’ going down.” He ultimately bought the statue back from the college. It is now displayed near Anderson’s gallery in Leeds, Utah. He also bought back his statue of John D. Lee in 2004. It had been commissioned by the Washington City Council to honor one of the town’s pioneer founders. However, to descendants of those killed by Mormon militiamen in Mountain Meadows, 30 miles north of St. George, in 1857, the statue of Lee was offensive. Lee was tried, convicted and executed for his role in that slaughter of 120 people in a wagon train en route to California from Arkansas. In a 2004 Deseret News story, a spokesman for the Washington City Historical Society said, “We never intended to honor him for his part in the Mountain Meadows Massacre, but John D. Lee did a lot of great things for Washington City. He was a good man. He built the cotton mill and taught people how to get the water here to grow the cotton.” A good man or a mass murderer? Such a dichotomy is not uncommon these days. Some people feel that statues memorializing the Confederacy are part of the South’s cultural legacy; others view them as symbols of treason and white supremacy. Regardless, most have been on display in public places for decades—as was Anderson’s “Rebels.” “I don’t like it, but things change,” reflected Anderson, who is still working at 84. What was acceptable yesterday may not measure up to today’s standards. The change is determined more by ideology than artistry. What doesn’t change is how people engage with art. Some use their eyes and ears; others rely on their hands. Anderson doesn’t care if people touch his statues. However, Jim Glenn, manager of the Utah Public Art Program, has a nuanced view of touch as a function of human nature. To touch is to engage art, he said, even when touching is discouraged by curators like himself. Utah’s inventory of public art is short on bare-breasted women. The bronze bulls at This Is the Place Monument have been castrated. A “don’t touch” sign guards Lincoln in the Capitol. It seems that Utahns’ best bet for a touch of good luck is to comb their lush lawns until they find a four-leaf clover.

LAST

LOOK Winter in Zion

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32 | Vamoose Utah â&#x20AC;˘ December 2019