VOL.3 NO.3 • FALL 2017
GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO
Rediscover Dark Skies
28
Bear Lake Break
20
Extend Your Summer Play in Southern Utah 10
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KEEP THE HEAT Extend your summer play in Southern Utah BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN
MORE THAN MILKSHAKES Autumn’s the season for a Bear Lake staycation BY DARBY DOYLE
BACKCOUNTRY CHEF Northern backroads to end-of-summer bounty BY DARBY DOYLE
THIS IS THE PLACE Delving into Horseshoe Canyon’s age-old mystery BY JERRY D. SPANGLER
CATCHING THE WIND The reason I paraglide is simple: I want to fly BY DAVID MILLER
HELLO DARKNESS, MY OLD FRIEND A guide to Utah’s best nighttime skies BY KATHERINE PIOLI
Inside Vamoose 4 | Vamoose Utah • Fall 2017
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VOL.3 NO.3 • FALL 2017
CONTRIBUTORS GET OUT | GET GOING | JUST GO
STAFF PUBLISHER EDITORIAL EDITOR COPY EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS
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JOHN SALTAS JERRE WROBLE LANCE GUDMUNDSEN KATHLEEN CURRY, DARBY DOYLE, GEOFF GRIFFIN, DAVID MILLER, KATHERINE PIOLI, JERRY SPANGLER MATT CARDIS, JACOB FRANK, NEAL HERBERT VAUGHN ROBISON JOSH SCHEUERMAN
PAULA SALTAS DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KAISER BRYAN MANNOS JACKIE BRIGGS
the world looking for material for the awardwinning Travel Brigade Radio Show podcast. Find more of their work at TravelBrigade.com and follow them on Twitter and Instagram @TravelBrigade.
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GEOFF GRIFFIN and KATHLEEN CURRY travel
LARRY CARTER
COVER IMAGE: ZION CANYON’S VIRGIN RIVER
@vamooseutah
Former wilderness ranger and recovering archaeologist DARBY DOYLE writes about food, cocktails and outdoor adventures from her home base in the foothills of Utah’s Wasatch Mountains. She’s the proud mama of teenage boys, goofy Labradors and a gaggle of backyard hens.
@VamooseUtah
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An avid outdoor adventurer and amateur stargazer, KATHERINE PIOLI will be traveling north to witness the full eclipse in August. Katherine also works as assistant editor for Catalyst magazine.
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It’s About the Journey
T
en years ago, when I followed a horse from a small town in Oregon to Salt Lake City in chase of a national championship belt buckle, the 18-year-old version of myself had no idea what kind of ride he was in for. While I was favored to win the championship, I instead finished a disappointing third. Many a well-meaning adult reassured me that showing horses, like life itself, isn’t about the prize—it’s the journey you take getting there. As words of wisdom often do when told to teenage boys who think they know everything, this went in one ear and out the other. I settled into Utah determined to finish my college degree as quickly as possible, while also proving that a small-town cowboy could make it in the big city. I just as quickly fell in love with this place. What I loved the most—and what ultimately kept me here after graduation—was urban Utah’s proximity to natural wonders of varied terrains. I found myself exploring these places on easy weekend trips—leaving for Southern Utah after work on Friday, and returning, with red dirt under my fingernails, to my ad-agency job on Monday mornings. That’s when the words “it’s about the journey” finally resonated. While the easy ride to Bear Lake’s turquoise waters or St. George’s red desert scenery sure does make living here more enjoyable, it’s really the journey to these spots that makes them special to me. It’s the tart cherries from Grammy’s Fruit & Produce on the way home from Bear Lake (which I paid for on the honor system by dropping cash into an unmanned deposit box). It’s the homemade scones served with a warm smile and local honey butter at Mom’s Cafe in Salina, where I stopped for a snack en route to Southern Utah. I hope to never stop to appreciating these experiences as I head out to, or home from, my Utah travels. While such encounters don’t hold any federal protections like national parks do, they’re every bit as unique and possibly as fleeting as protected wilderness in Utah’s rapidly changing cultural landscape. Now, as I take the reins as Vamoose’s new art director, I want you to enjoy the journey as much as I do. While designing this publication, I’m going to make sure your trip is a rich one, with evocative and visual treats to snack on, and informational signposts to help make sense of things along the way.
UTAH’S CAPITOL As a dual major in political science and economics at Southern Utah University, Miranda Jones found the perfect fit as a student working at the Michael O. Leavitt Center for Politics & Public Service. Now, as a Financial Operations Specialist at the Utah State Governor’s Office of Management and Budget, Miranda assists in oversight of state budget and finances. Miranda said it’s because of SUU that she is able to pursue her dream of having a career in public service, and assist in creating educated, informed, and practical budgets.
Let ’er buck, Vaughn Robison Art Director
SUU.EDU/EVERYWHERE
Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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KEEP THE HEAT
EXTEND YOUR SUMMER PLAY IN SOUTHERN UTAH
BY KATHLEEN CURRY & GEOFF GRIFFIN What can be too hot to handle during the summer can become a paradise during the fall. When the days are longest, Southern Utah sizzles with triple-digit temperatures. Even with the summer heat, Utah’s national parks often are clogged with tourists from around the world. But fall is a different story. Many of the travelers have returned home. Temperatures have scaled back to make outdoor activities pleasurable. It’s the perfect time for a getaway to Southern Utah to soak up the sunshine before winter arrives. Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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••••
Thursday
Salt Lake City to Cedar City
Leave Salt Lake City and take Interstate 15, heading south. In about 250 miles, or just over three hours, you’ll arrive in Cedar City. When you get into town, check in at the Iron Gate Inn (100 N. 200 West, 800-808-4599, TheIronGateInn.com), a bed and breakfast located in a Victorian home built in 1897. If you have time, take a dip in the outdoor jacuzzi or step out into the garden area and enjoy a glass of wine from local IG Winery (59 W. Center St., 435-867-9463, IGWinery.com), which also has a store and tasting room just a couple of blocks away.
KARL HUGH
IRON GATE INN
Iron Gate Inn
USF’s Greenshow
Dinner is a close walk over to Center Street for a visit to Centro Woodfired Pizzeria (50 W. Center St., 435-867-8123, facebook. com/CentroPizzeria) for Neapolitan-style pizzas featuring hand-crushed tomato sauce and house-made fennel sausage. Centro has a full beer and wine list, but you also may be tempted by the Italian sodas or a Centro Float—a scoop of ice cream floating in hand-crafted Brigham’s Brew root beer. When you leave Centro, you’re just a five-minute walk from either the outdoor Engelstad Shakespeare Theatre or indoor Randall Jones Theatre and the Utah Shakespeare Festival (200 W. College Ave., Cedar City, 800-752-9849, Bard.org). Plays start nightly at 8 p.m. in both venues during the summer season, which runs through Sept. 9. The fall season continues through Oct. 21, with nightly 8 p.m. shows in the Randall Jones Theatre and Anes Studio Theatre.
Shakespeare in Love performed at the Utah Shakespeare Festival 12 | Vamoose Utah • Fall 2017 NPS
KARL HUGH
Evening in Cedar City
Friday Evening St. George
After dinner, check in at the picturesque Inn on the Cliff (511 S. Airport Road, St. George, 435-216-5864, InnOnTheCliff.com), which was recently featured by Trivago as one of 18 “spectacular hotels you must add to your bucket list.” The name tells you the main selling point: Every room has a private balcony overlooking the surrounding valley.
AUTHOR GMHATFIELD
Kolob Canyons
Friday Morning
Friday Afternoon
Start the day with breakfast at the Iron Gate Inn. The rotating menu includes a cherry breakfast soufflé, fresh-peach French toast and homemade chocolate macadamia-nut muffins. After breakfast, take a quick walk over to the Pastry Pub (86 W. Center St., 435-867-1400, CedarCityPastryPub.com) to grab sandwiches and sundries to eat on your upcoming hike. Try herbal, pesto or chipotle sauce with your favorite meats and veggies on a croissant or bagel. Now that you’re set for the day, head south on I-15 for about 17 miles before taking Exit 40 to Kolob Canyons, the lesser-known, northwest portion of Zion National Park (NPS. gov/zion/planyourvisit/kolob-canyons.htm). Kolob Canyons features box canyons surrounded by 2,000-foot cliffs in a seldomcrowded park that offers a more pristine and primitive environment than what you’ll find at the more famous parts of Zion to the south. The Taylor Creek Trail is a 5-mile round-trip hike that rises gradually 450 feet as hikers make their way to Double Arch Alcove. For those looking for more of a challenge, it’s a 14-mile round-trip to Kolob Arch, which spans 287 feet and is 75 feet thick. It is believed to be one of the largest arches in the world.
After your hike, leave Kolob Canyons and continue south on I-15 for 30 minutes to arrive in St. George. Take St. George Boulevard exit and head down to Angelica’s Mexican Grill (formerly Irmita’s Mexican Grill, 101 E. St. George Blvd., 435-628-4399, Irmitas. com), an eatery that’s been serving street tacos, quesadillas and burritos to locals for more than 20 years. If you’re truly hungry, check out the “Torta Challenge.” This 16-inch Mexican sandwich is stuffed with your choice of meat, along with avocado, onions, tomatoes and mayo. Polish it off in 10 minutes and your prize is ... a coupon for another torta! Angelica’s also carries local beers and “Cervezas Mexicanas.”
Kolob Arch
This is a
Kolob Canyons to St. George
Angelica’s street tacos
Mike Saemisch
Cedar City to Kolob Canyons
Place
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COURTESY OF NPS
••••
Friday
Saturday
MATT CARDIS
••••
Sand Hollow Resort Golf Course
Saturday Morning St. George
Wake up to a breakfast box delivered to your room at Inn on the Cliff; enjoy it with a cup of coffee made with your own Keurig machine. If you arise early enough, you might have time to get in a morning round at one of the 11 golf courses the St. George area is famous for (StGeorgeUtahGolf.com), including the four owned by the city (SGCity.org/sportsandrecreation/golf). Sand Hollow Resort’s Championship Course (5662 W. Clubhouse Drive, Hurricane, 435-656-4653, SandHollowResorts.com) has been named Utah’s Best Public Course by Golf Week magazine for two straight years.
Saturday Afternoon
Canyon Trail Rides
St. Geroge to Zion National Park
JOHN AND LISA MERRILL
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After finishing up a round of golf, order an early lunch at Benja Thai & Sushi (2 W. St. George Blvd., 435-628-9538, BenjaThai.com). As the name implies, it’s a great place to chow down on pad Thai or specialty rolls such as the Rainbow (a California roll topped with avocado and five flavors of fish). After getting your sushi fix, it’s a one-hour drive north on 1-15 to the south entrance of Zion National Park (1 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, 435-772-3256, NPS.gov/zion). While Zion is well known for its advanced hikes and canyoneering treks in the Narrows and Subway, it’s also a great place to spend an afternoon surrounded by beautiful scenery while doing some shorter hikes. Those looking for an easy afternoon that still provides classic red rocks and waterfalls should try the Lower Emerald Pool Trail, just 1.2 miles on paved trail with minor rises and drops. It also links up to the Kayenta Trail and Upper Emerald Pool Trail. A classic Zion hike that can be done in one afternoon—one that everybody ought to do at least once—is Angel’s Landing. Plan on four hours for the 5.4-mile hike that rises nearly 1,500 feet. The last section is steep, narrow and not for the faint of heart, but the view from the top is unbeatable. For those who prefer to sit back and enjoy the scenery, a trail ride by horseback may be more to your liking. National Park concessionaire Canyon Trail Rides (1 Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, 435-772-3810, CanyonRides.com) operates corrals in the park from March through October. The one-hour ride ($45) follows the Virgin River to the Court of the Patriarchs while the three-hour trip ($90) takes you to the Sandbench Trail, ascending 500 feet to an expansive view of the park’s southern end. Keep in mind that private vehicles are not allowed on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. A shuttle service operates until late November and is a great way to see the park. Shuttles leave regularly from the Visitor Center starting at 7 a.m. with the last one departing at 6:45 p.m.
JASON ROGERS
Oscar’s Cafe
Saturday Night
BARBI LAWSON
Springdale
After your day of adventures in the park, check out Oscar’s Cafe (948 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-3232, OscarsCafe.com). They have everything from burgers to salads to Mexican, but at least one person in your party needs to order the Southwest chops smothered with green-chili sauce, served with twice-baked, cheddar-mashed potatoes and corn stuffed in a poblano pepper. After dinner, check in at Cliffrose Lodge & Gardens (281 Zion Park Blvd., 800.243-8824, CliffRoseLodge.com), located just 200 yards from the Zion National Park Visitor Center. The hotel is one of many places around Southern Utah that carries the handcrafted ales produced by Zion Brewery (its brewpub is located at 95 Zion Park Blvd., 435-772-0336, ZionBrewery.com). Grab a glass, and enjoy while sitting on the balcony or patio outside your room overlooking the Virgin River.
Zion Brewery
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Sunday Sunday
••••
Sunday Afternoon The biggest challenge to traveling in Southern Utah is finding a restaurant that is not part of a national chain but is also open on Sundays. Praise the Lord, the tiny town of Veyo has you covered. When you leave Snow Canyon, turn left to head north on Highway 18 for seven miles to arrive at Slice of Veyo (12 N. Main, 435-218-7291, Facebook.com/ sliceofveyo) for pizza, pasta or a panini. After indulging in a main course slice of pie, walk over to Veyo Pies & Bakery (24 S. Main, 435-574-2132, VeyoPies.com) for a dessert slice of pie. With options like peachblueberry, cherry-raspberry or the “Veyo Volcano” (cream cheese topped with layers of butterscotch, chocolate and whipped cream), you might want to take home an entire pie. After dining, continue to head north on Highway 18. Utah history buffs will be interested in visiting the Mountain Meadows National Historic Landmark, which marks the location of an 1857 massacre of 120 emigrants by militiamen associated with the LDS Church (Mtn-Meadows-Assoc.com). The site is just off the highway about 16 miles north of Veyo. The scenic drive from Veyo continues through the town of Enterprise before merging onto Highway 56 and ends in Cedar City about one hour later. From there, take the I-15 north back to SLC. Southern Utah offers a diverse bounty of landscapes and activities, and fall is the perfect season for enjoying all of them.
Snow Canyon State Park
Kathleen Curry & Geoff Griffin host the Travel Brigade Radio Show podcast.
Sunday Morning
Josh Scheuerman
Springdale to Snow Canyon
Get fueled up for the morning at Springdale’s Deep Creek Coffee Co. (932 Zion Park Blvd., 435-767-0272, deepcreekcoffee.com) with its signature cold brew and the “Quickdraw” bagel sandwich, that includes cream cheese, egg, avocado, spinach, tomato, sweet peppers, red onion and garlic aioli. From there, it’s an hourlong drive from Springdale to Snow Canyon State Park (1002 Snow Canyon Drive, Ivins, 435-628-2255, StateParksUtah.gov/parks/snow-canyon). Retrace your drive to I-15 and head back south, exiting at St. George Boulevard. Turn right onto 1000 East, then turn left onto Red Hills Parkway, continue to Snow Canyon Parkway and follow the signs to the park. It’s been said of Snow Canyon, “If it were in any other state, it would be a national park.” Despite being less than a day’s drive from the iconic landscapes of Moab, Bryce Canyon and Zion, this park has its own incredible combination of lava flows and sandstone cliffs, and it is often easier to access and enjoy than the larger national parks. One of the most popular sights, especially for kids, is a giant sand dune for playing in, rolling down, etc. Beyond that, hiking, biking and equestrian adventures abound throughout the park, including on some paved trails.
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Veyo Pies & Bakery
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Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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BEAR LAKE
BREAK
MORE THAN A MILKSHAKE STOP, BEAR LAKE OFFERS ADVENTURE FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY STORY & PHOTOS BY DARBY DOYLE
Explore the lake by kayak
B
GLAMP
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Glamping at Conestoga Ranch
ear Lake has my heart,” my friend, Alison Richman, told me when describing her nostalgia for Utah’s northernmost freshwater lake. Like many native Utahns, multiple generations of her family have looked forward to a Bear Lake trip as a cool-water respite in the heat of summertime. It’s far enough away from Salt Lake City to feel like a real vacation, but close enough to get there and back on a tank of gas. Straddling the Idaho-Utah border, this natural glacial lake is surrounded by both private and public land, and it abounds with recreational opportunities—from a quiet morning of fishing, paddleboarding along the lakeshore to wakesurfing behind a powerboat. Until I started researching this story, I’d never stayed in Bear Lake during the peak summer months, mostly due to the crowds. About a decade ago, traveling with my family, we’d stopped in Garden City on a late-July afternoon hoping to pick up a quick lunch. We ended up in line for over a halfhour with two hangry toddlers eager for milkshakes—not the best day. Since then, we’ve waited until autumn’s calmer and
NAVIGATING YOUR STAY
cooler months for our Bear Lake fix, when fall-leaf viewing, good fishing and muledeer-hunting season brought us back to the area with a better attitude. Even locals tout the offseason. Darin Pugmire of Pugstones Sporting, located in Garden City’s iconic Raspberry Square, says that fall and winter are great times to visit Bear Lake. “It’s not as crowded as summer, but there’s still a ton of stuff to do,” he says. Options for both lodging and dining around Bear Lake have improved dramatically in the past few years, making even the summer months feel a little more laid back. The west shore abounds with burger & shake shacks and pizza parlors. RV and tent campsites (both in state parks and private campgrounds) and established condominium beach rentals have been joined by a huge range of cabin-rental options from bare-bones rustic to upscale posh booked through sites like Airbnb.
Circle the wagons
Guests wanting to experience “Glamping” (glamorous camping) can do so at the beautiful setting of Conestoga Ranch (427 N. Paradise Parkway, 385-626-7395, open mid-May through Oct. 1, ConestogaRanch. com), situated on a rise above the east shore in Garden City. Accommodations vary from reproduction Conestoga wagons—a favorite for extended families wanting a circle of four or five wagons to “glamp” together—or wall tents cozily sleeping four or more (rates start at $129). All come with comfy beds and linens and are within a short walk to some pretty glam bathrooms at the main lodge. For those looking to up the frills factor, luxury wall tents are up the hill from the resort’s charming Campfire Grill Restaurant (beer and wine available), all featuring private in-suite bathrooms, wood stoves and secluded decks with cozy Adirondack chairs and fire pits, including a “firewood valet” taking care of delivery and maintenance. During previous visits to Bear Lake, we were hard-pressed to find decent breakfast options, especially on Sundays. Fortunately, both Conestoga Ranch’s Campfire Grill and nearby Crepes and Coffee (235 N. Bear Lake Blvd., 435-946-2696, open daily, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.—one of the few places in town to get an espresso) have the morning fuel run covered. But one thing everyone says of a Bear Lake must-do: You’ve got to get a raspberry shake, often said while asserting that the famous treat is done best by one of a handful of competitors in the area, such as LaBeau’s (69 N. Bear Lake Blvd., 435-946-8821). It’s probably the most hotly contested debate of Bear Lake regulars, who are fortunate to have lots of options to choose from. I’ll just wait until fall to avoid the lines.
Rent a bike to tour the shoreline
SHAKES
Raspberry shake: A Bear Lake tradition
BIKES
Bike paths keep riders (and pedestrians) safe alongside busy lakeside traffic between Garden City and Ideal Beach to the south. The Marina in Garden City, run by Utah State Parks (StateParks.Utah.gov/parks/bear-lake for details), has year-round public lake access; other launch access is available seasonally. Free day public-use areas accommodating non-motorized activities can be found along the southwest and south shores of Bear Lake between Garden City and First Point. Parking strictly enforced around day-use areas. n At Pugstones Sporting (6 S. Bear Lake Blvd., 435-946-2855, FishingBearLake.com), you can rent or buy just about anything you need in the realm of non-motorized equipment and supplies, from paddleboarding on the lake, beach toys on the shore, fly fishing in nearby Logan Canyon, picking up a wakeboard for towing behind the speedboat to renewing your hunting/fishing license. Within walking or biking distance of most lodging in Garden City, Pugstones also sponsors fishing derbies, offers guided fishing trips and has tons of local trails information. n For everything high-powered and motorized, it’s a good idea to reserve rentals online ahead of time. For equipment such as side-by-side UTVs, Sea-Doos, waterskiing boats and big toys like water trampolines and kayaks, check out Bear Lake Fun Rentals (BearLakeFun.com), with five locations. n Staying near the south end of the lake at state-park-operated Rendezvous Beach (StateParks.Utah.gov/parks/bear-lake)? Several equipment shops between Laketown and the Epic RV Park have you covered. Entry fees at Rendezvous Beach start at $10 for daily access from May 1-Oct. 31. n One of the area’s most popular fourseason spots, located in Logan Canyon just 13 miles from Garden City on Highway 89, Beaver Creek Lodge (435-753-1076, BeaverCreekLodge.com) provides a stunning base-camp for fall and winter activities. From June through October, the lodge offers RZR rentals (including fuel and helmets) and horseback riding adventures for riders of all experience levels, from basic trail rides to custom day-long trips with lunch included. Recognized as one of the West’s Top 10 snowmobile areas, the lodge offers snowmobile rentals, self-guided excursions and guided tours available December-April. n History, geography and geology aficionados will appreciate a solid regional orientation at the Bear Lake Overlook and rest stop on Highway 89 at Milepost 492.8 on the Logan Canyon Scenic Byway. In addition to stunning views, the interpretive signage describes the region’s fascinating geologic and human history. For a full list of area heritage sites and geologic wonders (such as Minnetonka Cave and the National OregonCalifornia Trail Center across the border in Idaho), visit BearRiverHeritage.com. Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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Chef
Backcountry
BY DARBY DOYLE
Don’t just treat yourself, do-it-yourself!
T
raveling Utah’s north country during the harvest season epitomizes just how many food-motivated outdoors people I know like to explore: stocking up the cooler to bring the tastes of a region back home. The Bear River Heritage Area—loosely anchored over the shared Utah-Idaho border and centered in Logan—is home to dozens of family orchards, dairies and artisan food producers. Whether heading to camp looking for fresh treats or stopping through on the way back home, you’ll find an abundant harvest of locally grown produce. Though the region’s bounty shines from June through October, there are still hidden food gems to be found the rest of the year. A handful of roadside farms preserve their harvest year-round for purchase on site or in local shops in Logan and Brigham City in the form of fruit jams, preserves or pie-ready frozen fruit. Our favorite road-side pit stop on old Highway 89, is Woodyatt Cherry Farms (7630 S. Highway 89, Willard, 801-721-0130). They only sell tart Montmorency cherries, all grown and packed on site. “We’re open every day,” owner Dan Woodyatt says, “even Christmas. We just leave the ‘open’ sign out and people can help themselves if we’re not here,” leaving their payment in the locked drop-box. In large refrigerators, you’ll find fresh-squeezed cherry juice and 1 ½ pound bags of tart dried Montmorency cherries ($15), perfect for granolatopping or trail snacks. They also stock case freezers full of fresh-frozen cherries (with sugar or without) in 4-pound containers ($20) and larger sizes (prices vary).
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ROAD-TRIPPING TO FARMSTEAD CHEESE, FRUIT STANDS AND MORE IN UTAH’S NORTH COUNTRY
CAMPGROUND CHERRY ICE CREAM Techniques for making ice cream without a power source are as varied as the crank tank my grandparents used decades ago, freezer bag strategies or the old ‘coffee can’ method. Recently, our family used a ball-shaped plastic container specifically designed for the task, which does the double-duty of keeping the camp crew entertained while making delicious soft-serve ice cream. Add fresh fruit right before serving. This recipe makes one pint. Serves 4.
1 pint heavy cream (or a combination of cream and half-and-half) 1 ½ teaspoons real vanilla extract 1/3 cup sugar 1/2 cup chopped cherries When ready to make, add all ingredients to the ice cream mixing vessel of choice. Follow manufacturer’s directions. When ice cream is set but still soft, stir in ½ cup chopped fresh cherries (or thawed cherries) or other fresh fruit. Return mixture to ice cream maker for another 4-5 minutes to combing and chill. Serve immediately.
The greater Bear River Heritage Area (BRHA) is home to orchards, dairies and farms run by families for generations and creative new business enterprises, most within an hour drive of Logan. Keep in mind many spots are closed on Sunday, so call ahead or check websites for details. To get a taste of northern Utah’s locally grown crops, make certain these stops are on your itinerary. n Travel Utah’s Famous Fruit Way (Old Route 89 between Willard and Brigham City, Facebook.com/ UtahsFamousFruitWay) to find dozens of fruit stands on the 7-mile stretch (most are located on the southern couple of miles between Perry and Willard). Look for cherries and corn in July, followed by apricots and berries of all kinds in August. September sees peaches, with apples, pears, pumpkins, potatoes and canned summer preserves available through October. n Maddox Ranch House Restaurant (1900 S. Highway 89, Brigham City, 800-544-5474, Maddoxfinefood.com) is so famous it’s noted on our Utah atlas as a historic spot of interest. Either dine in the restaurant, pick up burgers at the drive-up service stalls or purchase packed to-go local chicken, beef and bison. n At Rockhill Creamery (563 S. State, Richmond, 435-258-1278, RockhillCheese.com), farmstead cheeses are made by hand using traditional European Alpine methods, all made from raw milk produced by the farm’s six sweet-as-can-be Brown Swiss cows. Retail shop and country market open Saturdays only, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., June through mid-October. n Every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., mid-September through the end of October, visit Paradise Valley Orchard (9971 S. Highway 165, Paradise, 435-245-6203, ParadiseValleyOrchard.com) for U-pick apples and fresh cider, with more than 20 varieties ripening during the season.
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HORSESHOE CANYON
MYSTERY ROCK ART OF BARRIER CANYON INSPIRES AWE BY JERRY D. SPANGLER PHOTOS & MAP COURTESY OF NATIONAL PARKS SERVICE
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have spent nearly a half century tiptoeing among the remnants of the ancient Americans—their cliff dwellings and pit houses and granaries and rock art. And I have never lost the feeling of awe that comes from imagining what life was like for them millennia ago. But of the hundreds of places I have visited during my career as an archaeologist, Horseshoe Canyon is uniquely different. Here, the ghostly, life-size images painted on the canyon walls actually seem to be staring into my soul. It is an eerie, magnificent experience unlike any other, and well worth the 7-mile day hike. Horseshoe Canyon—some archaeologists, myself included, actually prefer its original name, Barrier Canyon—is a minor tributary to the Green River located in the middle of the San Rafael Desert. It is beautiful, certainly, with the sheer sandstone cliffs and a ribbon of cottonwoods marking the canyon bottom. But it is also rather unimposing by the standards of Utah’s canyon country. What makes Horseshoe Canyon unique among Utah’s many archaeological treasures is its mystery. Why is some of North America’s most impressive Pre-Columbian rock art nestled here in this small out-of-the-way oasis in the middle of the Utah desert? When were these images created? Who made them? Why? Quite simply, archaeologists do not have a lot of definitive answers. It has long been assumed these images—referred to as the Barrier Canyon Style of rock art—are very, very old, perhaps even 7,000 years old. Archaeologist Betsy Tipps re-examined the data from numerous Barrier Canyon Style sites in the Canyonlands region, and she made a very convincing argument they were probably made between 1900 B.C. and A.D. 300 by Late Archaic hunters and gatherers before the arrival of agriculture. Polly Schaafsma—one of the leading rock-art authorities in the West—narrowed it down further, to between 500 B.C. and 500 A.D. But a few years ago, Utah State University archaeologist Steve Simms and his colleague, geologist Joel Pederson, turned all that thinking on its head. Using a geologic technique called optically stimulated luminescence (much too complicated to explain here), they derived three dates, all at 1100 A.D., or the height of the muchlater farming culture known as the Fremont Complex. Even allowing for a generous range of error, the images would certainly not have been painted before about 1 A.D.
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Pre-Fremont rock art in the Great Gallery Utah rock-art enthusiasts did not take kindly to those findings. They point to the character of images at Fremont rock art sites that commonly feature the bow-and-arrow and rigid human figures. The more-fluid Barrier Canyon Style humans, usually with no arms or legs, are never depicted with the bow-and-arrow, a technology that did not appear in this region until about 100 A.D. And hence, the Barrier Canyon images must pre-date the Fremont farmers. The debate rages on. But most importantly, the USU study has stimulated new conversations about the past. Could it be that the ghostly rock-art images found here represent a mixing of iconography and ideology of Archaic foragers and the first farmers migrating north of the Colorado River? Could it represent the world view of many different groups through time, each one adopting the past while reformulating it to conform to their own life experiences?
The slower you go, the more you see
Most who visit here make a 3.5-mile beeline to what is known as the Great Gallery—the largest concentration of these ghostly images anywhere on the Colorado Plateau. And most never slow down to notice the dozen or so small sites along the way, each exuding mysteries of their own. Trail guides all say it takes a good five hours to hike to the Great Gallery and back out to the trailhead. But it takes a full day to really appreciate this canyon. Just past the point where the trail reaches the bottom of the canyon is a series of small Fremont figures painted in bright red. And about every quarter mile beyond that on both sides of the canyon are small groups of Barrier Canyon Style images that are rarely noticed.
Green River seen from Fort Bottom Ruin
The slower you go, the more you will see. And the more you will feel the ghosts staring into your own soul. Horseshoe Canyon was added to Canyonlands National Park in 1971, and regulations are in place to protect the images for future generations. Camping is not allowed in the canyon bottom, and pets are forbidden on the trail or in the canyon bottom. Camping is allowed on the canyon rims, and amenities are limited to a vault toilet. Hiking here is not difficult, but it does involve a steep, 780-foot climb in and out of the canyon on an old Jeep trail. Once in the bottom, trudging through soft sand dunes can be tiresome. It can also be scorching hot, so plan on carrying at least a gallon of water per person. The best (and most frequently maintained) road to the trailhead is a 30-mile dirt-and-gravel road that cuts east from U-24 opposite the turnoff to Goblin Valley State Park. Once you are on Interstate 70 west of Green River, take U-24 exit toward Lake Powell. The turnoff is signed. To learn what archaeologists do and do not know about Horseshoe Canyon, visit the Natural History Museum of Utah website (NHMU.utah. edu) and search for Horseshoe Canyon. Hiking and camping information is available at NPS.gov/cany/planyourvisit/horseshoecanyon.htm . Jerry D. Spangler is an archaeologist and executive director of the Colorado Plateau Archaeological alliance, an organization dedicated to the preservation of archaeological sites on public lands.
Fishhook cactus Fremont rock art
Peekaboo rock art
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WHY I...
PARAGLIDE
The reason I take to the sky is simple: I want to fly
BY DAVID MILLER
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ust about every person on earth has wanted to fly at one point in his or her life. Maybe we envy our avian friends or maybe the ground has lost its charm, but something about leaving the earth appeals to us bipedal beings. So, why do so few of us ever actually take to the skies? Some say it’s too complicated to learn to fly; others say it’s too time-consuming, too expensive and/or too dangerous. But is it? While the vast majority of us will never own or operate a plane, there are other ways to leave the ground.
Paragliding is the cheapest and simplest way for humans to fly. It takes a fraction of the time and money that becoming an airplane pilot does and, while it’s not riskfree, it can be a relatively safe sport. Paragliding is perhaps the most practical way to fly. The gear consists of a harness with a seat for the pilot that is suspended from a fabric wing. Weighing less than 50 pounds, this gear can be carried easily in a backpack. Pilots take off by lifting the wing over their heads and running forward down a slope until they lift off the ground. 26 | Vamoose Utah • Fall 2017
Using air currents to gain and maintain altitude, pilots can stay aloft for hours flying in predetermined patterns high above ground. Expert pilots even can fly hundreds of miles cross-country. The reason I started paragliding was simple: I wanted to fly. I didn’t want to be flown with the aid of a vehicle. The freefall of skydiving held even less appeal to me. I wanted autonomy in the sky. I wanted to soar and swoop and glide.
All that fear vanished
So, when my roommate suggested we save up for paragliding lessons, I was more than enthusiastic. Even through paragliding is cheaper than other ways of flying, gear and lessons have their costs. It took me almost a year to save enough money. But our first day flying, the first time my feet left the ground, I knew it was worth the wait. I have to admit I was scared. Heights have never been a huge fear of mine, but the idea of relying entirely on a large piece of nylon fabric and some small pieces of cord
to keep me airborne was not reassuring. I had not been above the earth in anything smaller than a Cessna before, and I initially felt exposed and vulnerable in my gear. All that fear vanished the moment I sat back into my harness. I began to feel entirely in control and completely safe. As I approached the ground again, I felt the fear return. I learned that taking off and landing are the most challenging and dangerous aspects of paragliding. It’s important to stress that paragliding accidents are not uncommon and can be fatal. Anytime pilots change variables in their flying routines, the utmost of caution is called for. But if you fly only in stable conditions, at locations you’re familiar with, using gear you’re comfortable with, you could fly for decades with no more than the occasional sprained ankle. The promise of flight is what first drew me to paragliding, and I can honestly say that if it hadn’t met my expectations, I would have given up the sport. Sufficed to say, it has met my expectations, and in many ways, surpassed them.
TAKING THE LEAP
With an average of 300 days of optimal weather conditions and more established paragliding sites than you can count, there is no shortage of fun to be had in the skies above the Beehive State. According to many, Utah and the legendary Point of the Mountain are world-renowned for the sport. Getting started is easier than you might think. First, you will need some lessons, which runs around $1,000. It’s steep, but the skills you will learn are definitely not something to bargain hunt for. Learning from those who know what they’re doing is key. Salt Lake-area flight schools worth checking out include: Cloud9 Paragliding (12665 Minuteman Drive, Ste. No. 1, Draper, 801-576-6460, Paragliders.com); Utah Paragliding (448 Steep Mountain Drive, Draper, 801-368-5139, UtahParagliding. com) and Super Fly Paragliding (8683 Sandy Parkway, Sandy, 801-255-9595, SuperFlyInc.com). After you complete your lessons and certification, you will then need to acquire the necessary gear. Again, gear is not cheap, and I wouldn’t recommend buying it second-hand, unless someone with more experience takes a look at it for you. A wing and harness will cost anywhere from $4,500 to $5,500 and should last for about four flying seasons, depending on usage. If the potential dangers and costs haven’t run you off by now, then go out there and get started! Take some lessons, or take your first leap into the sport on a tandem flight.
Paragliders at ThePoint-of-the-Mountain
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FINAL DAYS TO REGISTER! huntsvilleutahmarathon.com Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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HELLO
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NESS MY OLD FRIEND
HOW TO FIND THE BEST NIGHTTIME SKIES IN UTAH
BY KATHERINE PIOLI PHOTOS BY NEAL HERBERT & JACOB FRANK, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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BEFORE MAN-MADE TECHNOLOGIES CAPTURED OUR GAZE, A CELESTIAL BOND EXISTED BETWEEN ALL PEOPLE. Stargazing today isn’t what it once was, back when our forebears gazed up at the night skies, named the stars and told stories about them. With our modern light-drenched skies, it’s hard to imagine worshiping stars much less navigating by them. Even in Salt Lake City, nighttime light pollution scores at the top of the Bortle Dark Sky Scale—class 8 out of a 9-point scale. For those wanting to see constellations, that’s bad news. On moonless nights, the sky, as seen from our city, never quite achieves true darkness. Instead, the reflection of street lamps and security lights creates a grayish-white glow, making clouds appear lit from below. It’s easier to read a newspaper headline while standing outdoors than to find even a constellation as bright and recognizable as Orion. If the absence of a night sky makes you as sad as it does me, you’ll be relieved to learn that despite Salt Lake City’s disappointing light-pollution ranking, other places in Utah offer some of the best nighttime viewing in the world. And you don’t have to travel very far to get a gander at those heavenly bodies. In April, Antelope Island State Park, just an hour’s drive north of the capital city, became the ninth Utah site recognized for its “exceptional starry nights” by the International Dark Sky Association. Utah now has more dark sky designations than any other state, province or region in the world.
Orion rising
And this brings me back to my favorite autumn/winter constellation: Orion. We all have our reasons for wanting to see the stars. For me, the coolest thing about a lively night sky is the way it opens doors to all sorts of ancient stories from around the world. The bright stars of Orion have attracted the attention of stargazers from Australia—where Orion’s belt is called the Pot or Saucepan—to South Africa, where his tri-starred belt is known as the Three Kings
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JACOB W FRANK
OUP ER GR NAL W O T IO RE SQUA WEEP NAT N T HOVE MONUMEN Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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or the Three Sisters. The ancient Babylonians knew Orion as the Heavenly Shepherd and associated the star cluster with their god Anu. Meanwhile, the ancient Egyptians believed that the constellation was linked with Osiris, the god of death, afterlife and rebirth. Orion, as we know him, is named for the handsome hunter and demi-god of Greek mythology, son of the sea god Poseidon and the Cretan princess Euryale. Though he is known by many names around the world, the Greeks weren’t the only ones to associate this particular star cluster with hunters and a warriors. In Hungarian mythology, he is called Nimrod, to the Chinese he is Shen, and to the ancient Hittites of Anatolia he was Aqhat. It’s incredible that, despite our differences, and the vast distances that separated ancient humans, we all saw something similar when we looked heavenward. If looking at the stars with your eyes alone doesn’t inspire the kind of awe that the ancients felt, try looking at the stars through a telescope (or binoculars; they aren’t nearly as good as a telescope but can reveal far more than is possible to view with the unaided eye). Don’t have a telescope? The Salt Lake Astronomical Society (SLAS.us) hosts star parties each month at locations around the city (including Wheeler Farm and Harmons Emigration Market). Star parties are open to the public; volunteers set up and train their telescopes on the heavens for all to enjoy. A little farther away, you can enjoy an even better view at the Stansbury Park Observatory Complex just north of Tooele (252 UT-138, Stansbury Park). Look for Saturday meet-up dates on the SLAS website’s calendar of events. To a catch a glimpse of the stars at our newest Dark Sky park, join the Ogden Astronomical Society (OgdenAstronomy.com) at one of its monthly Saturday star parties hosted at Antelope Island State Park (parties start at 6 p.m. but the weeks vary, so check the organization’s website for exact dates). With a little magnification, those distant suns, often just specks in the sky, will be transformed.
UTA SIT H NOW E DAR S WIT HAS K S H OF NINE KY STAFICAL TUS 32 | Vamoose Utah • Fall 2017
NEAL HERBERT
ant sta elope has te pa islan bro rk n d sta nze t ow tus ier
WHERE ARE UTAH’S DARKEST SKIES?
The very first Utah site to earn official Dark Sky status from the IDA was Natural Bridges National Monument (Lake Powell, 435-692-1234 x16, NPS.gov/nabr), in 2006. This area, now within the boundaries of Bears Ears National Monument, holds a coveted gold-tier status. On the Bortle Dark Sky Scale that means the night sky here ranks the darkest (1 on the 9-point scale) Without impacts from artificial light, the night sky here is so clear and bright that a full array of sky phenomenon are on display from the full splendor of the Milky Way to meteors to airglow. Other sites with official gold-tier dark-sky status include: Hovenweep National Monument, Capitol Reef National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Dead Horse Point State Park and Goblin Valley State Park.
TRAVIS LOVELL
F OL REE CAPIT NAL NATIO PARK
Cedar Breaks National Monument earned silvertier status in 2017. And both Weber County North Fork Park and Antelope Island State Park recently earned bronze-tier status.
NOT-TO-BE-MISSED STAR PARTIES
Antelope Island State Park Star Party (at Whiterock Bay): Celebrate Utah’s newest Dark Sky on Saturday, Aug. 26, hosted by the members of the Ogden Astronomical Society (OgdenAstronomy.com). The celebration starts at 6 p.m. with deep-space viewing beginning at dark. Society members will be available with telescopes and willing to assist attendees. Tips for new newbies: Turn off your vehicle’s headlights as soon as possible and, if using a flashlight, use the red light setting if available. Great Basin Astronomy Festival (at Great Basin National Park, Nev.): Enjoy three days and nights of astronomy-themed events Sept. 21-23, 2017. Scout for solar flares and sunspots on the surface of the sun through sun-safe solar telescopes set up for viewing at the Lehman Caves Visitor Center. After dark, switch gears with telescopes that reveal colorful nebulae and spiral galaxies. A special nighttime photography workshop (reservations required, space limited to 30 people) is also planned. With a keynote talk by speaker Tony Berendsen, from Tahoe Star Tours, who will explore humanity’s awareness of the cosmos through science and art, there is also a kids program where youngsters can earn a Deep Space Certificate. (NPS.gov/grba/ planyourvisit/astronomy-festival.htm)
nat
ura mo nat l brid FIRSnume ional ges nt T DARinternWAS T H KS a KY tiona E PAR l K Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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YOUR CHANCE TO FISH THE BEAUTIFUL
FORT HALL BOTTOMS! Packages created exclusively for the guests of the Shoshone-Bannock Tribes. Each year, a limited number of season-long and daily fishing permits are issued to non-tribal members. The Shoshone-Bannock Hotel and Event Center offers luxury, relaxation and adventure, all at one destination.
FISHING PACKAGES The Signature | $359
The Traditional | $189
Traditional King or Double Queen Room (Two Nights)
Traditional King or Double Queen Room (One Night)
Two-Day Fishing Permit
One-Day Fishing Permit
Camas Sports Grill Dining Credit ($60)
Camas Sports Grill Dining Credit ($30) Based on availability.
2017 Fishing Season | April 17 - October 31 All Package Reservations must be paid in advance. For reservations and to reserve your 2017 Fishing Permit, please call 208-238-4800. Permits for Trout are Catch and Release. Other game and non-game fish are not. Limits apply.
Just North of Pocatello • I-15 Exit 80 shobanhotel.com • 208.238.4800 Fall 2017• Vamoose Utah |
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