Issue 7 • nov/dec 2015 • Celebrate
It’s time to
Vegan Pastries p. 10 Feast p. 14 of 7 Fishes p. 14 p. 39 27 Meet Taqueria’s Todd Gardiner p.32 46 p.
Boozetique p. 46 Devour Utah • November/December 2015 1
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2 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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Contents Stuff
Vegan Values BY AMANDA ROCK
Feast of Seven
Fishes
Bringing an Italian tradition to Utah BY DARBY DOYLE
The
Spread
Zest Kitchen & Bar BY AMANDA ROCK
Profile
Taqueria 27 Todd Gardiner
BY HEATHER KING
Diverse
Dishes
Five unique holiday meals BY LEVI ROGERS
The
Deconstruct
Avenues Bistro on Third
BY TED SCHEFFLER 4 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
40 46 50 56 66 74
Q&A
Baking bread with Brent Whitford BY KATIE ELDRIDGE
Adult
Candy
Boozetique is SLC’s libation station BY JOANNE MILLER
Talking
Turkey
How to roast the perfect holiday bird BY TED SCHEFFLER
The Aftermath
Where to hang out the morning after BY JOANNE MILLER
The Spirit
Guide
Celebrating cocktails with bubbly BY CHELSEA NELSON
Celebrating
Laziness
VANESSA CHANG
DEREK CARLISLE
10 14 30 32 34 38
Sweet
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 5
Devour CONTRIBUTORS Staff Publisher JOHN SALTAS General Manager
ANDY SUTCLIFFE
Editorial Editor Copy Editor Contributors
Photographers
TED SCHEFFLER TIFFANY FRANDSEN VANESSA CHANG, DARBY DOYLE, KATIE ELDRIDGE, HEATHER KING, JOANNE MILLER, CHELSEA NELSON, LEVI ROGERS, AMANDA ROCK, NIKI CHAN, KATIE ELDRIDGE, CHELSEA NELSON, BECKY & JOSH ROSENTHAL, TWO PAPER HORSES, JOHN TAYLOR
Nomadic Aussie scribe and pragmatic hedonist, Joanne Miller (aka The Word Surgeon) confesses to a dependence on fine French bubbles, stinky blue, and furry faces (think animals and less hirsute males). This amateur shutterbug/wannabe ballerina finds wonderment exploring her everchanging surroundings.
Production Art Director Assistant Production Manager Graphic Artists
DEREK CARLISLE MASON RODRICKC SUMMER MONTGOMERY, JOSH SCHEUERMAN, CAIT LEE
Business/Office Accounting Manager Associate Business Manager Office Administrator Technical Director
CODY WINGET PAULA SALTAS CELESTE NELSON BRYAN MANNOS
Amanda Rock is a freelance food writer with a passion for local vegetarian fare. She blogs at Amanda-Eats-SLC.blogspot.com
Marketing Marketing Manager Marketing Coordinator
JACKIE BRIGGS NICOLE ENRIGHT
Circulation Circulation Manager
LARRY CARTER
Sales Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives Devour Store Assistant Manager
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER JEFF CHIPIAN, JEREMIAH SMITH MOLLI STITZEL ALISSA DIMICK
Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Editor: Ted@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing Copyright 2015. All rights reserved
6 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Levi Rogers is a writer and coffee roaster in Salt Lake City. He graduated from the University of Utah with a degree in English and is currently getting his MFA from Antioch University. He lives with his wife, Cat, and his dog, Amelie.
Salt Lake City native Chelsea Nelson is passionate about living local. She writes a food & cocktail blog, Heartbeat Nosh. By day, she is a digital-marketing guru for a local nonprofit but she loves adventuring with her family most of all.
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Devour Utah • November/December 2015 7
Celebrate T
hey say time flies when you’re having fun, and I can’t believe that Devour Utah is one year old already. Now that’s something to celebrate! We’ve worked hard to bring you a publication that celebrates Utah’s restaurants, chefs, artisan producers, farmers, ranchers, cooks, servers, mixologists, winemakers, retailers and everyone else who contributes to the thriving food and drink culture here. But most of all, we wouldn’t be celebrating our first birthday without Devour Utah’s readers and advertisers, so we celebrate, salute and thank you, as well. There’s a lot to celebrate at this time of year, when the holiday season is upon us, and Levi Rogers points us toward eateries to celebrate diversity, with ethnic holiday dishes in mind, while Amanda Rock celebrates sweet vegan pastries and Chelsea Nelson has bubbles on the brain, with a look at some tempting Champagne cocktails. Darby Doyle takes us on a watery tour of seafood and fish dishes in an homage to the Italian Christmas tradition of The Feast of Seven Fishes, while Heather King and I offer big bird tips for holiday meals with a Turkey 101 primer. And, since excess is part of many celebrations, Joanne Miller has suggestions about where to deal with “The Aftermath,” while Vanessa Chang makes a strong case for owning your laziness during the holidays. We hope you find Devour Utah’s Celebrate issue as fun to read as it was to make. —Ted Scheffler
8 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
DEREK CARLISLE
Chandelier at Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 9
Pastry vegan
VALUES Sweet eats from Salt Lake City’s vegan bakers & chefs BY AMANDA ROCK PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
S
alt Lake City has a delicious secret— our fair city is gold mine of tasty vegan surprises. Take a few minutes this hectic holiday season and treat yourself to something decadent. Or better yet, skip the holiday baking and treat everyone (including yourself!) to these enticing sweets.
BERRY CHEESECAKE To be honest, I was skeptical about raw food before I experienced the Berry Cheesecake from Omar’s Rawtopia, Salt Lake City’s premier raw-food dining destination. It’s a coconut-almond crust filled with cashews and coconut and topped with a delectable mixed-berry sauce. This thick and creamy cheesecake is so good, you’ll find it hard to share. The rest of the menu is just as impressive, and each dish includes Omar’s favorite ingredient: love. Omar’s Rawtopia 2148 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-486-0332 OmarsRawtopia.com 10 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Lemon Blueberry Scone $2.90
LEMON BLUEBERRY SCONE
Berry Cheesecake $8
City Cakes is a popular gluten-free and vegan bakery cafe located on Main Street. I can’t drive by without picking up a few Lemon Blueberry Scones. The contrasting tart and sweet flavors are just perfect. Juicy blueberries are a delight to bite into, and the surrounding lemon-flavored scone is wonderfully crumbly. Paired with a cup of coffee, it’s a glorious breakfast, but the bright, vibrant flavors are enough to wake you up on their own! And the best part? Their scones are less than $3 each. Stop by to check out the impressive pastry case filled with bread, cupcakes, cookies and anything else your heart desires. City Cakes also serves breakfast and lunch. City Cakes Bakery & Cafe 1000 S. Main, SLC 801-359-2239 CityCakesCafe.com Devour Utah • November/December 2015 11
Croissant aux Amandes
CROISSANT AUX AMANDES
$6
DILLO VEGAN SNACK CAKE The first time I had a Dillo Vegan Snack Cake, I thought “This is what Twinkies should taste like.” Cakewalk Baking Company’s Dillo is a simple treat of delicate, fluffy cake enveloping an interior of cream. They come in a variety of delicious flavors such as chocolate cake filled with spicy Mexican chocolate cream and vanilla cake filled with vanilla-chai cream. My favorite? I’m all about the classic Naked Dillo with vanilla cake and vanilla cream. Cakewalk Baking Co. @ Frisch Compassionate Eatery 145 E. 1300 South, SLC 801-906-8277 CakewalkBakingCompany.com
12 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Jessica Davies, owner of Passion Flour Patisserie, spent three hard-working years perfecting her vegan-croissant recipe before opening her darling pastry shop. Styled after a classic French patisserie, this shop features croissants, macarons and other classic pastries gone vegan. One thing you won’t want to miss is the Croissant aux Amandes, filled with dreamy almond cream and a layer of perfect flaky and buttery crust. Passion Flour Pattisserie 165 E. 900 South, SLC 385-242-7040 PassionFlourSLC.com
Dillo Vegan Snack Cake $2.50
NEW FALL HOURS BRUNCH 9am - 3pm LIGHT FARE 3pm - 5pm SUPPER 5pm-CLOSE WEDNESDAY-SUNDAY
564 3RD AVENUE, SLC 801-831-5409
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 13
THE NIGHT
Aquatic Celebrating the Feast of the Seven Fishes along the Wasatch By Darby Doyle 14 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
A
mericans love adapting other countries’ second-tier commemorative days and turning them into historically suspect cultural caricatures. Take Cinco de Mayo and St. Patrick’s Day, holidays rather perfunctorily recognized in their respective home countries of Mexico and Ireland, but in the U.S. of A., they’ve been turned into day-long festivities of copious adultbeverage consumption. A similar bit of cultural exaggeration seems expected and even encouraged during the Italian-American Christmas Eve meal, “The Feast of the Seven Fishes,” but the hours-long
Valter Nassi of Valter’s Osteria
Seven Fishes Vigil
fête has a long culinary history in southern Italy. The extended pre-Mass vigil feast (sometimes called “La Vigilia,” “Cenna della Vigilia,” or “the dinner of the vigil”) is a much-loved tradition from coast to coast but is especially practiced in Catholic households of southern Italian descent. Growing up Presbyterian in early-to-bed, early-to-rise middle America, I was equal parts curious and covetous of my Italian-American friends’ food traditions during the holidays. While our family baked hundreds of delicious cookies, their tales of La Vigilia sounded so exotic: seven or more dishes made with expensive and unusual seafood ingredients; extended families sitting around tables until midnight, judiciously pacing themselves to avoid food coma; and winesloshing toasts all accompanied by requisite cheers of “Salud!” And, then, they went to church. At midnight! The roots of the Feast of the Seven Fishes may be most popularly exemplified in southern Italy, but European Catholics
celebrate similar Christmas Eve vigil dinners from Poland (“Wigilia”) to Portugal (“Véspera de Natal”). All are vegetarian meals with some pescetarian elements to accommodate “meatless” menus. Before modern transportation, fresh ocean seafood wasn’t readily available to landlocked folks, and was often a luxury item. This regionally grounded interpretation of La Vigilia was also the experience of Valter Nassi of Valter’s Osteria, the beloved Salt Lake City shrine of northern Italian cuisine. At his family’s home in Montelcino, “We didn’t celebrate La Vigilia with the ‘Pesce’ tradition in Tuscany,” says Nassi, although some families might have a fish dish or two on the menu. Their big celebration was on Christmas Day, “and we always had turkey,” something he laments most Americans are weary of following Thanksgiving. In fact, the first time Nassi attended a Feast of the Seven Fishes vigil dinner was when he was living in New York in the 1980s and was invited to the home of his restaurant’s fish vendor, a Sicilian ex-pat. Typically, the meal started with a dish featuring salted cod (baccalà), then continued with courses of shellfish, squid and eel. It always includes a fish served whole, such as Branzino. Although most Italian-Americans feast with seven courses—apocryphally representing the seven sacraments, the seven days of creation, or perhaps a reminder of the seven deadly sins with gluttony conspicuously leading the way—there are boundless examples of feasts on both sides of the Atlantic featuring courses numbering from three (the three Wise Men) to 13 (representing the apostles plus Jesus). In Italy, the feast is most famously celebrated in and around Sicily and in the Campania region, specifically the Amalfi coast. Although it’s a tradition carried to America with homage to cucina casalinga (“home cooking”), in major food cities like New York, Chicago and Las Vegas, restaurant patrons place reservations months in advance to secure spots for seafood-centered Christmas Eve dinners at places like Mario Batali’s Esca or Rao’s Vegas outpost. I have yet to wrangle a Cenna della Vigilia invitation from any of my Utah friends (hint-hint), and dining out along the Wasatch can be a distinct challenge on Devour Utah • November/December 2015 15
Kimi’s Lounge
16 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Gravad Lax Toast This light, refreshing version of Swedish gravlax features an elegant and delightful stack of house-cured Alaskan salmon. Artfully layered with crisp Scandinavian rye crackers, capers, red onions, micro greens and a delectable sauce made with lemon, sweet mustard and dill, the delicate fish is still the star. This mini-tower satisfies as a perfect luncheon plate, or a great dish to share with friends to start off a meal at Kimi’s. Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com
DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE
Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House
Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. So, I recommend satisfying that seasonal seafood jones with a multi-cultural spin spread over a series of days, rather than pulling out all the stops in one night. Even though the last time Utah saw oceanfront property dated roughly to the Late Cretaceous Period, we can count ourselves lucky that our dining scene now includes excellent restaurant options particularly catering to our piscine whims. From cured fillets, to mollusks, to whole fish, we’ve got plenty of delicious options. Here’s our take on how to spread the traditional Seven Fishes Feast over seven days and seven Utah eateries, rather than seven courses in one night. ❖
DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE
Gravard Lax Toast
1456 Newpark Blvd, Park City | (435) 647-0304 357 Main St, Salt Lake City | (801) 328-0304 www.maxwellsece.com Devour Utah • November/December 2015 17
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Cannella’s Restaurant
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Mussels & Clams This bastion of traditional southern Italian cuisine has kept Utahns happy since 1978. Regulars flock to the place for Friday lunch to nosh on linguine with creamy-garlicky clam sauce. The regular menu seafood-pasta selections change by season, and the fettuccini with rich marinara and piles of calamari, shrimp, and mollusks is eminently satisfying come winter. But Cannella’s stellar shellfish is available year-round and by popular demand: a generous platter of perfectly cooked mussels and clams served with an addictive white-wine broth, perfectly balanced with garlic, lemon, parsley and red-pepper flakes. Cannella’s Restaurant & Lounge 204 E. 500 South, SLC 801-355-8518 CannellasRestaurant.com
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
18 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Mussels & Clams
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 19
BLACKSHEEPCAFE.COM
Shrimp & Grits
Blue Fire Shrimp
20 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
BLACKSHEEPCAFE.COM
Black Sheep Café
BLACKSHEEPCAFE.COM
In this charming, light-filled bistro, you’ll find delicious nosh, world-class service and a surprisingly comprehensive drinks menu, featuring a bounty of Utah beverage producers. Black Sheep Café is owned and run by a Navajo family originally from northern Arizona, and specializes in upscale plates of Southwest favorites. It’s also got one of the best interpretations of shrimp & grits available in the state: grilled jumbo shrimp over Navajo blue-corn grits, served with bright pico de gallo, crisp local bacon, crumbly cojita cheese and a chipotle butter sauce. Black Sheep Café 19 N. University Ave., Provo 801-607-2485 BlackSheepCafe.com
No Travel
Required.
Bake 360
European Bakery & Cafe 725 E. 12300 S. | olsensbake360.com | 801-571-1500 ***3 Best of State Awards
Now Serving at
3977 S. Wasatch Blvd. Salt Lake City | 801.466.1202
Breakfast 7 days a week • Catering Available • Large Parties Welcome
• Awesome Patio • Lots of Parking
Citris Grill
Tuesday 8am - 9pm • Wednesday - Saturday 8am-10pm
SALT LAKE ROASTING CO.
All Our Coffees
AVAILABLE ‘BY THE CUP’
HEAVENLY ‘IN HOUSE’ PASTRIES • ESPRESSO BAR DAILY MENU FEATURING THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS
downtown • 320 E. 400 S. | Library Square • 210 E. 400 S.
r oa s t i n g .c o m Devour Utah • November/December 2015 21
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Mac n’ Cheese
Shellfish Mac n’ Cheese
22 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Harbor Seafood & Steak Co.
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
On a dark and dreary winter night when all you want is to be cosseted and taken care of, head to Harbor on the east edge of Sugar House to get your comfort fix. Order the Mac n’ Cheese (penne, really) and request they gild that already fabulous lily with a heaping portion of crab or lobster (your choice) on top. Perfectly al dente penne pasta sauced with a rich and creamy béchamel, it’s made bright and zingy with a whopping addition of Utah’s own Beehive White Cheddar Cheese. Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. 2302 E. Parley’s Way, SLC 801-466-9827 HarborSLC.com
Bakery • Cafe • Market •Spirits
Find us
-Liquor Outlet-Creekside Cafe-Market-
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Gluten Free
the Grain
Authentic Brazilian Style Cheese Breads • AKA "Pao de Queijo"
CheeseBreadmania.com
SALT LAKE’S ORIGINAL
ICHIBAN
336 S. 400 E. | 801.532.7522
ruthscreekside.com 4170 Emigration Canyon Road 801.582.0457 SEEN ON “ DINERS, Serving American ASDRIVE-INS AND DIVES” Comfort Food Since 1930
-CREEKSIDE PATIO-85 YEARS AND GOING STRONG-BREAKFAST SERVED DAILY UNTIL 4PM-DELICIOUS MIMOSAS & BLOODY MARY’S-LIVE MUSIC SAT & SUN 11AM-2PM“In a perfect world, every town would have a diner just like Ruth’s” -CityWeekly
1624 South 1100 East Open from 7:30am to 2:30pm daily 7 days a week
“Like having dinner at Mom’s in the mountains” -Cincinnati Enquirer
4160 EMIGRATION CANYON ROAD
801 582-5807 WWW.RUTHSDINER.COM
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 23
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Arroz con Pescado
Del Mar
al Lago
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
24 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Arroz con Pescado en Salsa Camarones Let’s be real here: We could put together an entire Feast of the Seven Fishes with delicious ease at Del Mar al Lago. Its menu is filled with delectable ceviches, with several sampler options so you can try them all. And hands-down, they have the best Pisco Sours in town (try the passion fruit version). But, oh, their fish in yellow sauce keeps us coming back again and again. Delicate white fish—the variety depends on what the chef finds freshest—lightly fried, then draped with a mild yet flavorful Peruvian amarillo pepper sauce rich with fish stock and cream. All topped with shrimp and the traditional boiled egg. It’s a gorgeous feast for the eyes and the palate. Del Mar al Lago 310 Bugatti Drive, SLC 801-467-2890
PC’s Best
Friday & Saturday Nights STARTING AT 8PM
A Laid-Back Local Grill
650 W 100 S, HEBER, UT | 435-654-2133 SNAKECREEKGRILL.COM
KIMBALL JUNCTION, PARK CITY MOLLYBLOOMSGASTROPUB.COM
(435) 645-0844 Devour Utah • November/December 2015 25
26 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
COURTESY OF BRASS TAG
The Brass Tag
COURTESY OF BRASS TAG
Shrimp Cast-Iron Skillet For those who love nothing more than spending our winter days slope-side, count on Deer Valley to serve up delicious après ski seafood, done well, and always with style. The Brass Tag is a cozy timbered spot with flickering fireplaces, an excellent full bar and brick oven-roasted fare prepared exceptionally well. Split one of its castiron skillet meals of shrimp sauced with a choice of three options (like coconut red curry, roasted red pepper with saffron, or our favorite, buttery tarragon and parmesan) with friends, who will appreciate an extra order of The Brass Tag’s house-made pretzels served with grainy mustard. And the standout Oven-Seared Scallops entrée is sure to please: a generous portion of plump shellfish over bed of wilted spinach, topped with micro greens, smoky ham and basil pesto. The Brass Tag 2900 Deer Valley Drive The Lodges at Deer Valley 435-615-2410 DeerValley.com
COURTESY OF BRASS TAG
Shrimp CastIron Skillet
Chocolates • Toffee • Pecan Rolls
TONA SUSHI BAR AND GRILL tonarestaurant.com 801.485.2261 | 1479 S. Main | condiescandies.com Perfect for personal and corporate gifts.
2014 5
2014
2014
2013
2012
210 25th Street, Ogden • (801) 622-8662 • facebook.com/tonasushi
Hand Dipped Chocolates & Quality Confections
hatchfamilychocolates.com 376 8TH AVENUE ★ SUITE A ★ SLC, UT ★ 801-532-4912 Devour Utah • November/December 2015 27
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Whole Dry-Fried Yellow Croaker
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Mom’s Kitchen
28 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Whole Dry-Fried Yellow Croaker No La Vigilia feast would be complete without some kind of whole fish, but it’s something many diners find intimidating to dig into at table. While several restaurants in Utah have whole plate-size fish like branzino on the menu, smaller fish intended to be eaten whole—bones and all—can be a tough sell. But those folks who relish the crispy crunchy delights of eating small whole fish will love Mom’s Kitchen, where their Taiwanese-style dry-fried yellow croaker is lightly spiced and powdered with rice flour and deepfried. An order contains seven or eight small (about 4”-5” long) mild fish, which can be whole (although some diners may chose to pull out the spine of larger fish). The croakers are served over a light sauce of soy, scallion and sesame oil, along with a generous side of rice. And Mom’s house-made chili oil sauce makes the perfect accompaniment to the fish’s crispy tails. Mom’s Kitchen 2233 S. State, SLC 801-486-0092 MomsKitchenRestaurantSaltLakeCity.com
GIFT
S FO
Curious Concoctions of
Professor Julian Raintree
R EV
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STEA
MPU
NK C
OLLE
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OPEN MON, WED-SAT 11AM TO 6PM THESTEAMPUNKSPECTACLE • LOWER LEVEL CENTER COURT TROLLEY SQUARE Devour Utah • November/December 2015 29
The
pread S
30 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Zest Kitchen & Bar
Zest kitchen & Bar
est Kitchen & Bar serves organic and seasonal vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free cuisine in a lively ambiance. With a combination of delectable raw dishes, decadent desserts and a killer craftcocktail menu, owner and chef Casey Staker makes a plant-based diet seem not only within reach, but delicious. The focus of Zest’s menu is on local and seasonal produce. The food is farm-to-table, and it’s spectacular. Brussels sprouts come to life with slivered almonds and a creamy, savory almond sauce. The stuffed mushrooms are addictive—filled with cashew nut cheese and baked. With a toothsome combination of fresh flavors and textures, raw dishes like manicotti (yes, manicotti!) are as filling and comforting as a home-cooked meal. Even the drink menu is special. The Jalapeño Margarita is as delicious as it is innovative, with its spicy, tart flavor. There’s a tantalizing selection of cocktails, organic wines, local beers and gluten-free beer and cider at Zest. And, the dessert menu is aweinspiring. Chocolate cake made with beets has a moist texture and deep flavor. Topped with a chocolate cream (made with avocado!) this unique dessert will knock your socks off. During brunch, on Fridays and Saturdays, be sure to try the savory chickpea pancakes served with avocado, pico de gallo and cashew sour cream. Mimosas made the Zest way, with fresh fruit juice, are only $5. On weekend nights, the cool, contemporary ambiance of Zest Kitchen & Bar turns into a full-on nightclub with live DJs. The slogan on its website sums up the Zest experience: Drink. Dine. Dance. Zest. ❖
Zest owner & chef Casey Staker
Jalapeño Margarita
Raw Manicotti
275 S. 200 West, SLC 801-433-0589 ZestSLC.com —Amanda Rock Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • November/December 2015 31
Profile Shredded red chile pork tacos
XXX
Gran Rouge Margarita
A Tale of Tacos A
Todd & Kristin Gardiner
Taqueria 27’s Todd Gardiner by Heather L. King • Photos by Niki Chan
s the chef and owner of a trio of Taqueria 27 (T27 for short) establishments around the Salt Lake Valley, Todd Gardiner has accomplished what many restaurateurs only dream of—a rapidly expanding restaurant empire with innovative menus and plenty of patrons. With the exception of a brief two-anda-half-year stint as a flight attendant, Gardiner has always been in the kitchen—where he got his first job at age 12. “I thought the cooks were way more glamorous than the servers,” he recalls. Before he ventured out on his own, he earned his chef whites by coming up through the ranks at The New Yorker, Red Butte Café, Oceans, Snowbird, Z’Tejas and Log Haven. He credits each of his kitchen experiences with teaching him what he needed in order to be a successful restaurateur. Bosses like Dave Jones at Log Haven and Mikel Trapp (Trio Restaurant Group) shaped both his food instincts and business acumen. He learned the time-tested art of the garde-manger system at The New Yorker; he was humbled at Red Butte Café; he learned how to run a business at Z’Tejas; but he really learned how to cook at Log Haven. “Dave Jones taught me how to bring it together. He showed me a totally new
32 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
world of food. I mean, are you kidding me? Seared ahi with blood-orange reduction in 1994?” Gardiner also met his wife, Kristin, at Log Haven. “She rolled in as this tiny spitfire from Chicago. We’ve been arguing since then,” Gardiner jokes as he says about himself, “I wasn’t a very nice guy in the kitchen. I would make Gordon Ramsay cry. It was war, and she took it all.” Years later, it’s that fiery partnership between Kristin and Todd that now fuels their well-oiled T27 dynasty—dishing up high-end tacos and tequila-based drinks in downtown Salt Lake City, on Foothill Drive and most recently, in Holladay. Now with two young children and three restaurants, the Gardiners both work more than full-time for T27 and utilize a lot of schedules and systems to accomplish everything they need to each day. “There’s a method to our madness,” Gardiner smirks as he lists off their daily routines—everything from liquor orders and staff training to tending the T27 gardens which provide much of the restaurants’ produce during the summer months. But what is now a systematically organized operation could have easily been something very different. When Gardiner applied for their first liquor license with Department of Alcoholic Beverage
Todd Gardiner
Control it was to support a wood-fired pizza restaurant in what is now the Feldman’s Deli location. Although he got the liquor license that day, he lost the space. “I wasn’t in love with the pizza concept, but I was in love with the taco concept,” he recalls. “Today, we’re doing buffalo chicken tacos, and that’s what I was in love with.” The Gardiners still have more up their taco-slinging sleeves too. In the coming months, keep watch on the original Lamplighter Square location on Foothill Drive for some new developments—including a banquet space perfect for holiday gatherings. With the busiest season in restaurants underway and another successful year under their belts, how do the Gardiners intend to celebrate the holidays? “Our tradition for Thanksgiving and Christmas dinner is Kristin’s favorite side dish: creamed leeks,” says Todd. On those two days, all of the Taqueria 27 restaurants are closed, but when they’re open on every other day this season, Gardiner encourages guests to celebrate at T27 with shredded red chile pork tacos and a Gran Rouge Margarita or two. ❖
Flowers, Gifts & Gallery You’ve just got to come in! 1344 S. 2100 E. | 801.521.4773 everybloomingthing.com Devour Utah • November/December 2015 33
Diversity celebrate
Five unique dishes for the holiday season BY LEVI ROGERS
P
rime rib. Duck. Tri-tip. Ham. Goose. Turkey. These are the more traditional dishes you find on white table cloths during the holidays. However, this is America. And while America has traditions of its own, it is also a nation of immigrants. Here are a handful of tantalizing, nontraditional holiday dishes from around the globe—ones that you can find right here in Salt Lake City. So cheers, salut and buen provecho!
Potato Latkes A traditional Jewish dish, potato latkes are shallow pancakes made out of shredded potatoes that are fried and topped with apple-sauce for Hanukkah. The oil is important, as the holiday itself commemorates the miracle of the lamp oil in the Holy Temple of Jerusalem. Feldmans Deli 2005 E. 2700 South, SLC 801-906-0369 FeldmansDeli.com
34 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
DEREK CARLISLE
FELDMAN’S DELI
Pozole Rico Brand
Pozole & Tamales
Potato Latkes Feldman’s Deli
Pozole is a celebratory Southwestern soup typically made with pork (or chicken, lamb, etc.), red chiles, cabbage, radishes and cilantro. The Christmastime dish is reddish orange in appearance and considered by some to be an excellent hangover cure. Jorge Fierro of Rico serves pozole & tamales at the Rico Winter Farmers Market booth in the Rio Grande Building. It’s also available in stores during the holidays or you can find it at the little known, but wonderful restaurant, Julia’s Mexican Restaurant. Julia’s Mexican Restaurant 51 S. 100 West, SLC 801-521-4288
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 35
$6
Sushi More in celebration of the New Year than Christmas or Hanukkah, many Asian cultures celebrate this time of year with specialties of their regional cuisine. My wife is half-Japanese and each year on New Year’s, the family would gather for sushi at her grandma’s house. It’s impossible to beat Takashi or Naked Fish for world-class sushi, but if you’re looking for low prices, Ichiban Sushi & Asian Grill offers deals that are hard to pass up. Try the Rocky Mountain or Crunch Salmon rolls. Ichiban Sushi & Asian Grill 3424 S. State, SLC 801-486-8882
TED SCHEFFLER
Crunch Salmon Roll
Chinese Traditions There’s a culinary tradition of sorts for urbanites on Christmas: Chinese food. Chinese restaurants often are the only places open on Christmas. So if you’ve burnt the ham or dried out the turkey—or just don’t feel like cooking on Christmas—try the newly opened Red House, located in the middle of an inconspicuous strip mall off State Street. It has great noodle and soup dishes, dumplings and authentic Sichuan and Chongqing cuisine. The pork ribs with black pepper sauce and the mu shu chicken are incredible for the holidays, or at any other time. ❖ Red House 1465 S. State, SLC 801-821-3622 RedHouseSLC.com
Pork Ribs With Black Pepper Sauce $8
36 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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Devour Utah • November/December 2015 37
The
38 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
AVENUES BISTRO ON THIRD
Octopus & Grits 564 E. Third Ave., SLC 801-831-5409 AvenuesBistroOnThird.com
E
ntering Avenues Bistro on Third is like walking into a warm embrace. It’s a restaurant as unique as its owner, Kathie Chadbourne, who’s “garnished” her eatery with rare rocks and stones, eclectic art and photos, cookbooks, a petrified tree, and all things food & drink related. Strangers become quick friends in this cozy and intimate bistro, and its inviting neighborhood vibe is second to none. Neither is the food, conceived of and executed by talented and creative chef Kevin Romans. Take his brunch menu, for example. It’s anything but a routine weekend brunch affair. He recently introduced a dish he originally wanted to call “Pus-n-Grits,” but decided to go with the more explanatory Octopus & Grits. After cooking the octopus in broth at barely a simmer for nearly an eternity, his cuts the tender, moist tentacles into bite-size chunks and lightly sautés them with garlic and smoked paprika before serving the octopus on a bed of yellow cornmeal grits, topped with a beautiful poached egg and broccoli rabe. It’s a terrific new seafood spin on mid-day brunch! —Ted Scheffler Photos by Niki Chan Devour Utah • November/December 2015 39
40 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Celebrating simplicity with Red Bicycle Breadworks STORY AND PHOTOS BY KATIE ELDRIDGE
I
f you think life is complicated, try decoding the ingredients and techniques used in most massproduced breads. Sadly, bread has become a bad word for it’s naughty gluten-filled ways and carbohydrateladen characteristics, one Utah chef has great news: bread is not bad. And he wants to prove it with his own Red Bicycle Breadworks. Founder and chef Brent Whitford explains that modern bread has given loaves a bad rap. Red Bicycle’s recipes are a throwback to the way things used to be: simple and good. Between baking stick bread and shuffling pizzas in and out of ovens at his Park City location, Whitford chatted about where he’s been, and about his handcrafted bread company that was born nearly nine years ago. Devour: You mentioned your interest in cooking started at a young age. How did that propel you into becoming a chef?
Brent Whitford
Brent Whitford: I grew up in Connecticut, and started cooking for my family when I was a kid. Both my parents worked, and my mother would leave 3-by-5 inch recipe cards for me—with the ingredients in the refrigerator. My job was to cook meals for the family. Then I started working my way up in various restaurants and eventually went to the Culinary Institute of America. Devour: You moved to Park City in 2003, and served as Chef de Cuisine for Chez Betty for eight years. Overlapping with your restaurant job, Red Bicycle began for you and your partner, Brad Hart, in 2007. Tell us about your approach and philosophy behind the bread.
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 41
BW: We make artisan bread. It started out with just doing the large rounds of bread. The concept was always to use local products whenever possible. We now use about 10 local companies for our ingredients. We use ancient salt from Redmond, Utah. Our flour is from Central Milling, and the list goes on. Devour: Talk about how your process and product differs from what people can buy on a grocery-store shelf.
Red Bicycle baker Niyonsenga Agathe
BW: We make about 18 different types of bread. Some we do just for farmers markets—but for each, we use natural leavens. A lot of modern-day breads use commercial flours that have additives that make the yeast go crazy. Instant yeast is not natural—and it’s also not natural to speed up the bread-making process. We make a water and flour culture that collects yeast and bacteria naturally from the air. This is how we used to make bread. The wild yeast culture (with bacteria & probiotics) helps us to digest the normally indigestible properties of wheat. The ingredients are simple: flour, water and salt. We also consider temperature and time as ingredients, as well. The breads we bake take about three days to make. Some are quicker—but we are not trying to rush the process. Time and temperature can be finicky and difficult to perfect —which is another reason most companies don’t make bread like we do. Devour: What varieties of breads do you make?
Olive oil & sea salt stick bread
BW: We make olive oil & sea salt stick bread, boules, Park City Sourdough, sprouted quinoa, 100 percent sprouted whole-wheat bread, sesame-semolina bread, burger buns. Maybe it’s selfish, we make what we want to make. In the spring, we come up with new ideas and have people try them at the markets—if they like them, we offer them year-round. Devour: This is a labor of love and a bit of science, true? BW: Yes, it’s a constant learning process for me. I educate the public as much as I can. I should have “Breaducation” classes. It’s scientific, it’s observations - a storm front can affect how the bread will rise. Bread will always keep you on your toes. It’s not easy or fast. Also, bread doesn’t need to be this scary thing you need to avoid. We are doing it right—the old way—the way our bodies can enjoy it. Natural leavening, long fermentation times and organic ingredients mean you can enjoy what we are making.
Red Bicycle Breadworks The Market at Park City 1500 Snow Creek Drive 435-602-9026 Facebook.com/redbicyclebread
42 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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Red Bicycle
Buckwheat Sourdough Pancakes 1 1/2c active sourdough culture 1 egg 2T honey 1c whole milk 2/3c organic buckwheat flour 2T toasted buckwheat grouts 1t sea salt
44 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Red Bicycle’s head baker, Paul Serpe, came up with this pancake recipe to keep the troops going on busy Sunday mornings. He recommends serving with butter, real maple syrup, and lots of crispy bacon! In a medium bowl mix together sourdough, egg, honey, and whole milk. Fold in grouts, flour, and salt until a batter forms. Let batter sit overnight, covered in the fridge. Cook on an oiled skillet until bubbles start to form in the batter for 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and finish other side (1 min).Enjoy!
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Boozetique adult candy
Trick out your home bar
S
alt Lake City’s “Downtown East” is a haven of eclectic boutiques appealing to local tastes and curiosity. In this 300 East/300 South neighborhood, Boozetique offers all manner of booze gadgetry, including discreet receptacles for covert outdoor imbibing juxtaposed against a backdrop of gourmet tea, vintage china, gifts and greeting cards. Local artists exhibit their wares and revelers can hire the space for intimate events. It’s the store to visit for this gift-giving time of year. To be clear, you won’t find the slightest hint of booze at Boozetique, but a state-run liquor store is just around the corner. And Boozetique is jam-packed with trappings to house, transport, wrap, prepare and serve the coveted liquid. Tongue-in-cheek items include retro-styled LDS-themed hip flasks, and 46 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
the 50-caliber bullet bottle opener has serious appeal among the seek-anddestroy set. Boozetique caters to the “mixologist,” offering novelty and staple gadgetry for both the amateur and professional (industry discount applies for those that pipe up at checkout). Celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal’s increasing popularity has given rise to “drinkable science” (cue the Vaportini and Molecule Cocktail R-Evolution’s Molecular Mixology Kit), inviting would-be researchers to explore foams, drinkable bubbles and spherification. Vaportini is a Nordic-designed/saunainspired marvel—Boozetique owner Ivonna “Ivy” Earnest will share the story when you visit. It calls for 90 proof alcohol, heat, and a healthy set of lungs to inhale separated alcoholic fumes from water. The effect is
BY JOANNE MILLER PHOTOS BY JOSH SCHEUERMAN
instantaneous but diminishes quickly: Sloshed one minute and the picture of sobriety the next. De rigueur barware includes copper Moscow mule mugs and coupe glassware (wide-mouthed, shallowbowled) for cocktails and champagne. Quaffers are urged to switch out narrow stemware for a headier experience. Besides, who can resist the kinky and somewhat sketchy lore that the coupe glass was molded on the left breast of the teen queen of France, Marie Antoinette? Sun protection is a concern for Boozetique clientele, with the Hawaiian Islands sunscreen flask selling out in a matter of weeks. Clever and covert, revelers pour “sunscreen” into drinks for added SPF protection! (Wink wink!) The LDS Temple hip flask, an oxymoron in itself, remains a clear favorite with
Eclectic Modern American Craft Kitchen Now Booking Holdiay Parties, Private Dining Spaces Available, Please Call for Details 3364 s 2300 e, SLC 801.410.4046 slcprovisions.com Devour Utah • November/December 2015 47
State-of-art stereo
Copper Moscow Mule mugs
48 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Flasks for every personality
locals and tourists, leading Earnest to quote her and husband Josh Stippich’s No. 1 musician and Boozetique playlist go-to, Tom Waits: “I don’t have a drinking problem, ‘cept when I can’t get a drink!” Boozetique boasts a cache of assorted bitters and Earnest attributes hit television show, Mad Men for heightening awareness of the allimportant cocktail ingredient. “People want to celebrate anything and everything with panache and style and ordering a Jack & Coke doesn’t quite cut it.” Teetotalers will buzz with excitement at former Lisa Brady’s “Tea Room” (within Boozetique), where a wall of loose-leaf teas and delicate vintage China evoke the most regal of tea-party fantasies. Brady formerly operated the Beehive Tea Room. The inquisitive and audiophiles are lured into the store by “electronluv”— gargantuan. Bespoke Hi-Fis occupying the front studio space. These audio heavyweights are the passionate creation of Stippich, who is a local sound engineer. Beck’s Morning Phase
resonated with astounding clarity as I entered the store. Boozetique’s “open record” policy invites customers to listen to their preferred album on Stippich’s state-of-the-art equipment (Opt for your edgy playlist and save your guilty listening pleasures for home). The holidays call for celebrating and invariably lead to frequent bottle popping. But, what if you don’t finish all your sauce in one sitting—a conundrum I’ve yet to face? Most bottlesaving items are under $30, including beer hammers (to remove beer tops without damage for convenient recapping, should you ever need to recap a beer). Earnest advises against booze “leftovers,” while single-handedly championing bring back “sauce” into modern the vernacular. “You’re simply not drinking enough if you have to save your bottle,” she says.
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A step-by-step guide to celebrating America’s favorite holiday food BY TED SCHEFFLER
othing says “celebrate!” during the winter-holiday season like a gorgeous, plump, juicy golden turkey from the oven. Over the years, I’ve experimented with dozens of different turkey preparations, including deep-frying. But the following method of brining and roasting—one that I get requests for over and over each Thanksgiving or Christmas—will guarantee that this year’s bird will be the best ever! Seriously; try it. Nothing can spoil Thanksgiving dinner faster than killing off a few of your guests with an undercooked bird. So, here is my strategy to ensure that your Thanksgiving is a delicious success— with no casualties. First of all, don’t buy one of those self-basting turkeys with vegetable oil injected into them. They’re … fowl. Figure out how many people you’ll be feeding, and plan on about half a pound of turkey per person. That’ll leave plenty of leftovers for sandwiches, soups, and stews—maybe even turkey tetrazzini. Oh, and consider buying two smaller turkeys rather than one large one. They’ll cook faster, and you’ll have twice as many wings, thighs and drumsticks. I prefer un-basted, natural, free-range turkeys. You can special-order them at most supermarkets or pick
50 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
FOOD FROM THE FARM
Liberty Heights Fresh
CHELSEA NELSON
TO YOUR TABLE
them up at stores such as Liberty Heights Fresh and Whole Foods Market. Buy the turkey a few days before Thanksgiving and give it two or three days to defrost in the fridge, if frozen. Don’t come home from the store with a rock-hard frozen turkey on Thanksgiving eve and expect to eat it the next day. Also, if you purchase a turkey with one of those little plastic pop-up timers, you’ll discover that they are, well, turkeys. They’re pretty unreliable, so use a meat thermometer such as Utah-made Thermapen to test a turkey for doneness. I have found that brining the bird the night before cooking helps to ensure that the turkey will be moist and tender. Brining makes a noticeable difference in the texture and flavor of the turkey meat, too. Here’s how to do it: Dissolve 2 cups of kosher salt or 1 cup of regular table salt in 2 gallons of cold water in a clean bucket, large stock pot, or lobster pot. Place the turkey in the pot and refrigerate, or keep in a very cool place (40 degrees or lower) for 8-12 hours. I usually brine the turkey on Thanksgiving Eve and put it out in the cold garage. In the morning, I remove the turkey from the brine and rinse it thoroughly inside and out until all traces of the salt are removed. The problem with cooking most large turkeys is that by the time the dark meat is done, the breast is
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Put ice “saddle bags” on your bird before cooking
Tough Turkey Why and where to score the perfect holiday bird
typically overcooked and dry. So here’s how to help remedy that: After the turkey is defrosted but still in the fridge, fill a large Ziploc bag full of ice cubes. Lay the ice pack over the turkey breast in the refrigerator like saddlebags. The ice will keep the breast cooler than the rest of the bird. Keep the ice pack on the breast until you’re ready to put the turkey in the oven. You won’t believe what a difference this simple trick will make! Health experts don’t recommend cooking a turkey with stuffing or dressing in the turkey cavity. But if you must, only stuff a turkey right before roasting since stuffing sitting in an uncooked turkey can develop nasty and dangerous bacteria. It’s better to cook your stuffing separately from the turkey. The turkey will cook faster and the stuffing won’t be saturated with fat. Here is my method for cooking a 15-18 pound turkey. You can modify the recipe using herbs, rubs, sauces, or whatever on the turkey. But this is the simplest, most straightforward way I know of cooking the perfect holiday bird.
Cook stuffing separately
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BY HEATHER L. KING
ill turkey be the center of your holiday feast(s) this year? If so, then you’ve got a lot to consider when it comes to choosing and preparing it: Heritage or broad breasted? Salted or brined? Roasted or fried? Fresh or frozen? In answering the fresh-versus-frozen question, consider both taste and convenience when making your final selection. If you can’t find fresh turkeys, frozen are fine. Just be sure to follow Ted Scheffler’s defrosting and brining tips. Typically, fresh turkeys, whether heritage or broad-breasted white birds, are raised free-range, which will result in a stronger, more natural “gamey” flavor that reflects their habitat. It’s also unlikely that they were treated with hormones or antibiotics so while they may be smaller, they can also be juicier, without any additional additives. But if convenience is key —since most fresh turkeys are only available around Thanksgiving because of production times and/or you simply may not have refrigerator space for a fresh bird—you might find that a frozen bird will better suit your purposes. For fresh turkeys, Wight’s Fresh Turkeys in Ogden has a limited number of fresh birds available for pre-order by phoning 801-731-3760. Birds will be available in early November for $2.69 per pound and can be picked up at their retail outlet through Nov. 25th. If you’d rather get your Wight’s turkey in Salt Lake, several stores
are accepting pre-orders. Contact The Store in Holladay at 801-277-3047, Meiers Catering in Holladay at 801-2784653 and Main Street Quality Meats in Salt Lake City at 801-484-5295. You can also find Wights turkeys at Meiers Meats and Fine Foods in Highland at 801-642-2069. Salt & Smoke Meats will also be selling turkeys from Wight’s for $4 per pound raw, $5.50 per pound brined and $6.50 per pound smoked. Utah Natural Meat’s turkeys are fresh-frozen and available on a firstcome, first-serve basis in November at their farm store in West Jordan for $5 per pound (running 10-25 pounds.). Their broad-breasted white turkeys are pasture-fed on sprouts, grass, rolled oats and insects and are growthhormone and antibiotic-free. Liberty Heights Fresh will be selling 250 fresh, all-natural, pasture-raised, organic birds from Diestel Turkey Ranch in California for $3.79 per pound. They’ll also offer 40 organic black heritage breed turkeys for $5.49 per pound. Orders can be placed by calling the store at 801-583-7374. Frozen Diestel turkeys will be available for Christmas time purchase as well. ❖
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 53
Let the Roasting Begin Adjust the oven rack to its lowest position. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the neck and giblets from the turkey’s body cavity. (If you brined your bird, you’ll already have done this.) Remove the icepack saddle bags described above. Rinse the turkey with cold water inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Brush or rub the turkey with 3-4 tablespoons of melted unsalted butter. Generously sprinkle the turkey inside and out with salt and freshly ground black pepper (you can also add herbs like thyme, rosemary, etc. at this stage if you wish). Place an onion, quartered, inside the turkey cavity. Place the turkey upside down, with the breast facing downward, on a nonstick roasting rack. Put the roasting rack in a large roasting pan. Place the turkey in the oven and cook for one hour at 400 degrees. After an hour, lower the oven temperature to 250
54 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
degrees and roast the turkey for about 1 hour and 45 minutes more. Remove the turkey from the oven and turn it breast side up (I do this with big wads of paper towels inserted into the turkey’s cavities). Baste the breast with pan juices. Increase the oven to 400 degrees, put the turkey back into the oven, breast up and continue cooking until the breast registers 160 degrees and a thigh registers 175 to 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. This should take anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 1/2 additional hours. (Note: Exact roasting times will vary depending on the size of the turkey.) Remove the turkey from the oven and be sure to let it rest—and you do the same—for about 20-30 minutes before you start hacking it up. The bird will be unbelievably moist and easy to carve. ❖
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Aftermath the
There’s got to be a morning after; here’s where to survive it BY JOANNE MILLER
T
he festive holiday season can be challenging, with its endless happy hours, (or better still—complimentary bar), calorific delights and late nights. Such sips and social onslaught can leave one bedraggled, so it’s important to know ahead of time where to turn for the “hair of the dog” when the almighty hangover strikes with vengeance.
56 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Wings, Rings and Things
Jalapeño Poppers Garage on Beck
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
The Mormon funeral potatoes, “baptized in hot oil,” warrant border crossings in droves, hence, the constant line-up of vintage Harleys out front. Saloon-style decor contrasts with North Salt Lake’s industrial backdrop, veiled by an inviting, tree-lined patio. Leave room for swoon-worthy Southern fried chicken, jalapeño poppers, and the Cowboy Burger. Everything-but-the-kitchensink omelets satisfy egg lovers, while mouth-watering tacos ($1 on Tuesdays) are anything but diminutive! 1199 Beck St., SLC 801-521-3904 GarageOnBeck.com
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 57
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Cowboy Burger
JOHN TAYLOR
Blake’ s Food Truck
JOHN TAYLOR
Hot Buttery Scones Gourmet Sliders
Cheddarwurst Corn Dog Nuggets
Blake’s Food Truck
East Liberty Tap House
Daily gourmet slider specials at Blake’s provide the ultimate greasy gratification, while sweet teeth will delight in the hot buttery scones. And, who needs a table or chair when you can dine as you dash? Tempting fellow pedestrians with your grease-scented trail is the second-best experience to actual noshing on a Blake’s creation. Watch as they about-face and follow their nose to the source. Blake’s Facebook page lists daily locations to plan your rejuvenation accordingly. 801-808-8207 BlakesGourmet.com
Anesthetized minds will appreciate ELTH’s easy-to-recall hours (12-12), seven days. Its brats and burgers are well worth the midday wait as are the craft beers and cocktails. Settle in for the day (and night) at a cozy table or bar seat inside, or dress for cooler climes and huddle around the patio fire pits, elk chili in hand, while gnawing on cheddarwurst corn-dog nuggets. 850 E. 900 South, SLC 801-441-2845 EastLibertyTapHouse.com
58 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Elk Chili
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Spitz’s Doquitos
Rye Diner & Drinks
Spitz
Tucking into anything booze-laden or deep-fried before midday seems wayward, which is why the breakfast bowl (salty pork belly, kimchi and egg), and shoyu-fried chicken and waffles are a panacea for the weary. Soft-as-silk egg scrambles (in four variations) can be gobbled up in the blink of an eye, so consider a double serving of the eggs (house taters and toast are included). Order La Barba’s freshly made coffee and you’re primed for another all-nighter at neighboring Urban Lounge. 239 S. 500 East 801-364-4655 RyeSLC.com
Industrial décor, urban art and eclectic music dispel preconceived notions of the typical kebab joint, so pull up a pew and indulge in a cleansing craft ale, cocktail or sangria while you wait for your gyro. Go-to dishes include the breakfast and street cart wraps, “doquitos,” sweet potato fries and the crispy garbanzo beans with olives. 35 E. 300 South, SLC 801-364-0286 1201 E. Wilmington Ave., SLC 385-322-1140 SpitzSLC.com
JOSH SCHEUERMAN
Spitz 60 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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JOHN TAYLOR JOHN TAYLOR
French Toast Foolishness
Shooter Goal Sandwich
The Park Café The snaking daily queues here are testament to the delicious bounty of Park Café’s ample-size comfort food, served at a lightning pace. Choose a staple like the Michigan Hash, Shooter’s Sandwich, French Toast Foolishness or Pancake Sandwich, and then admire the table collectibles and artwork. It’s rowdy, so fragile types should request an al fresco table, or opt take-out service and wander across the street to Liberty Park and to nibble and observe the resident birdlife. Weekends are uber busy, so rise and shine early. 604 E. 1300 South, SLC 801-487-1670 TheParkCafeSLC.com
62 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
JOHN TAYLOR
JOHN TAYLOR
Michigan Hash
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sen s e t elica nt D n a ra Germ Restau &
From the dock to your table, we bring the harbor to you We wanted to create a neighborhood restaurant that gives our guests a sense of home. Our menu is based on simple comfort food, where the taste and quality stands for what we believe in. Founded by Randall Curtis & Taylor Jacobsen, our goal was simple: give our guests not only the freshest seafood and prime steaks but also serve an affordable wine selection and craft cocktails. Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. is now offering private catering for all functions! From office holiday parties to home dinners, our Executive Chef Justin Jacobsen will design a menu that will set your party off. We are currently open for Dinner Tuesday thru Sunday. Book Us Now For Your Next Holiday Party Or Cater
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DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE
Twisted Ceviche Twist The breakfast burrito is an obvious (but solid) choice, while those with more exotic taste buds will lean toward the Twisted Ceviche—big eye tuna, watermelon and shiso. And, who could possibly pass on the Mini Shepherd’s Pie or grilled pancetta sandwich? Well-priced weekend brunching (11 a.m.-3 p.m.) includes obligatory mimosas and bloody marys. Arrive early as the vast space that once was a 19th-century boiler room fills quickly. ❖ 32 E Exchange Place, SLC 801-322-3200 TwistSLC.com
64 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
DEREK CARLISLE
DEREK CARLISLE
Twist
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Devour Utah • November/December 2015 65
CSparkles elebrate with By Chelsea Nelson • Photos by Derek Carlisle
A
s the holidays approach, those who enjoy imbibing often find themselves ordering more bubbly beverages than usual. With all of the celebrations—from carving the Thanksgiving turkey to toasting the midnight hour on New Year’s Eve—sparklers are a basic staple of the holiday season. But this year, we challenge you to try sparkling wine mixed cocktail-style! There’s a host of creative ways to enjoy the bubbly this season, including these four unique cocktails that incorporate sparkling wine, from bone-dry to sensuously sweet.
The Cocktail: The Stone Spice Pear The Maker:
Tiffany Gratteau, Stoneground Kitchen
249 E. 400 South 801-364-1368 StoneGroundSLC.com
“Come quickly, I’m tasting stars.”
T
he new, beautiful bar and lounge at Stoneground Kitchen is the perfect place to enjoy a celebratory craft cocktail like the Stone Spice Pear. Created with the chilly season in mind, this cocktail combines muddled fresh pear, allspice berries, spiced rum, clove and housemade brown-sugar simple syrup. The savory notes will make you want to put on a warm sweater and cozy up next to a fire, but the topper of Brut Champagne makes you want to celebrate late into the evening. Easy to sip and the perfect soul warmer, this is “the” cocktail to enjoy on a 66 Devour Utah • November/December 2015 snowy evening with great conversation!
—Dom Perignon
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3210 Highland Drive | Salt Lake City, UT Mon-Fri 10-6 | Saturday 10-5 801.483.3200 PalettiSLC.com
Devour Utah • November/December 2015 67
D
o you fancy the freshness of a Moscow Mule or Mojito? Then you will love the Vino Asino created at BTG Wine Bar. This refreshing prosecco beverage is a perfect balance of earthy and sweet. Mint, cucumber, Sugarhouse Vodka, celery bitters and freshsqueezed lime create an aromatic cocktail that you can almost taste before it hits your lips. Topped with Adriano Adami GarbĂŠl Prosecco Brut and served in a copper mug, this cool, easy-sipping bubbly drink is one of my new favorites in the city.
The Cocktail: Vino Asino The Maker: Cliff Reagle, BTG Wine Bar
63 W. 100 South, SLC 801-359-2814 BTGWineBar.com
68 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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The Cocktail: Elder 75 The Maker:
Giancarlo Farina, Provisions
3364 S. 2300 East, SLC 801-410-4046 SLCProvisions.com
I
f you like your bubbles brut and crisp, the Elder 75 is for you. This citrus cocktail starts off dry and finishes tart. Beehive Barrel Reserve Gin, St. Germain and a hint of citrus are topped off with Gruet Brut Sparkling Wine. The Barrel Reserve Gin adds a roundedness and creates a fullbodied flavor, but don’t let the St. Germain fool you into thinking you are getting a sweet cocktail. The Elder 75 highlights the overall dryness of the Gruet Sparkling Wine and will leave your palate refreshed and ready for Provisions’ amazing dishes. 70 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
HOUSE MADE FRESH AWARD-WINNING
62 E. Gallivan Ave. 801-961-9000 FromScratchSLC.com
Join us for a complimentary class! 1057 E. 2100 S. • (801) 485-4227 saltlakecity.barmethod.com
919 W 2100 S, SLC, UT | (801) 908-5320 | taqueriaelpaisautah.com Devour Utah • November/December 2015 71
The Cocktail: Naughty & Nice The Maker:
Kimi Eklund, Kimi´s Chop and Oyster House
2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com
T
he Naughty & Nice cocktail truly lives up to its name: a beautiful beverage that changes its flavor profile several times, from the first sip of the dry Jaume Cristalino Spanish Cava to the last taste of Lingonberry sorbet. Yes, that’s right—this drink features house-made sorbet made from fresh lingonberry preserves. As you get further into drinking this cocktail, the sweeter it becomes. Add Absolut Vodka and lime, and this celebratory concoction really hits all the notes—from dry and tart to acidic and sweet. Enjoy a Naughty & Nice to end your meal, and I suggest doing it in Kimi’s beautiful fireplace lounge. ❖
72 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
Locally SOURCED MEAT FOR THE Holidays NOW TAKING PRE ORDERS FOR: PORK CROWN ROAST · PORCHETTA SMOKED HAMS · CHARCUTERIE HAND CRAFTED SAUSAGE · TURKEY SUGAR FREE BACON
RETAIL HOURS: FRIDAY 12-5, SATURDAY 10-2
155 WEST MALVERN AVE. | 801.671.0896 SALTANDSMOKEMEATS.COM Devour Utah • November/December 2015 73
In
Praise of
The practical (and luxurious) virtue of keeping things mellow during the holidays.
By Vanessa Chang
A
mong friends, acquaintances and social media followers, I’ve been accused of being a Grinch. Fair enough. Admittedly my RBF gets more severe when I hear holiday music before I’ve even had a chance to raid the Halloween candy or witnessing the pre-dawn post-prandial frenzy for the best deal on a flat-screen TV. Now, I love a good value (my hardworking immigrant parents taught me well) and always welcome a respite from hard work (again, thank the parents). But the price many pay for modern holiday revelry is something I can’t fork over. The holiday season is the one time of year where everyone seems as anxious as I normally am the rest of the year (again, the parents) dominated by expectations and checklists: Six dozen delicately frosted gingersnaps for Thursday’s cookie exchange. Wrapping all the gifts with the same shiny wrapping paper you spotted on Pinterest in time for Christmas Eve. Ordering that organic goose raised by Druids on a biodynamic island for the big feast later that week. I get tired just thinking about it. It’s not because I’m a Grinch, but rather, I’m a product of the same aforementioned parents who often worked two jobs six-seven days a week when I was a kid. Days off were precious. So when a holiday rolled around, they reveled in laziness. The rules were simple: 1. Sleep in. 2. Eat what you want. 3. Take your time. We were never a household bound by tradition. One Thanksgiving, it was vegetarian taquitos fried and slathered in a tomatillo sauce mom learned from a neighbor and her classic abalone porridge of which I ate my body weight. Total holiday prep time: 1 hour active cooking, 2 hours of simmering for the porridge. One Christmas, it was seeing their friends who ran a Japanese seafood buffet in Torrance. They didn’t really celebrate the holidays traditionally, either, so they stayed open for people like us who came in for snow-crab legs, tobiko covered rolls, and luscious morsels of uni (sea urchin) sushi. They sent me home with extra butter mints. We were home by 8 p.m., wearing comfy pants and watching HBO by 8:30. The Thanksgiving I was 6, they honored my request to visit Disneyland, about an hour’s drive away. After the cotton candy had coursed through my veins, I startled my parents by asking why we never had a turkey dinner I saw being served at some of the restaurants. Not wanting to waste money on bad food at overpriced resort restaurants, my folks grabbed the sublime fire-roasted chicken family meal at the nearest El Pollo Loco. That night, pinto beans studded with green chilies and soft tortillas subbed as my mashed potatoes and dinner rolls. Chicken fat got all over my face and stained the pink and gold princess hat my mom had just bought for me in a shop in Fantasyland. Now, masquerading as a functioning adult and quasi Grinch, I apply the same principles to my holiday traditions. But I’ve added upon my family’s first three simple rules: 4. Bubbly and hot toddies makes the occasion. 5. Gooey Vacherin Mont D’Or cheese and boiled potatoes make a worthy feast. And 6. Comfy pants. Always. ❖
74 Devour Utah • November/December 2015
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