City Weekly September 23, 2021 by Copperfield Publishing

CONTENTS COVER STORY

SAVOR THE SEASON Recipes to make the most of the fall harvest. By Devour Utah writers Carolyn Campbell, Aimee L. Cook and Ari LeVaux

Cover illustration by Derek Carlisle

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OPINION A&E DINE MUSIC CINEMA COMMUNITY

2 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

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OPINION

Check out weekly columns Smart Bomb and Taking a Gander at cityweekly.net facebook.com/slcweekly

DINE

Go to cityweekly.net for local restaurants serving you.

Twitter: @cityweekly • Deals at cityweeklystore.com

STAY INFORMED! Want to know the latest on coronavirus? Get off Facebook and check out these three online resources: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention: cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov World Health Organization: who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019 State of Utah Coronavirus Updates: coronavirus.utah.gov

STAFF Publisher PETE SALTAS Associate Publisher MICHAEL SALTAS Executive Editor JOHN SALTAS News Editor BENJAMIN WOOD Arts & Entertainment Editor SCOTT RENSHAW Contributing Editor JERRE WROBLE Music Editor ERIN MOORE Listings Desk KARA RHODES

Editorial Contributors KATHARINE BIELE, ROB BREZSNY CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, ARI LEVAUX, MIKE RIEDEL ALEX SPRINGER Production Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO

Associate Business Manager: PAULA SALTAS Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS Developer BRYAN BALE Sales Executives: KELLY BOYCE DOUG KRUITHOF KATHY MUELLER Display Advertising 801-716-1777 National Advertising VMG Advertising | 888-278-9866

Salt Lake City Weekly is published every Thursday by Copperfield Publishing Inc. We are an independent publication dedicated to alternative news and news sources, that also serves as a comprehensive entertainment guide. 15,000 copies of Salt Lake City Weekly are available free of charge at more than 1,800 locations along the Wasatch Front. Limit one copy per reader. Additional copies of the paper can be purchased for $1 (Best of Utah and other special issues, $5) payable to Salt Lake City Weekly in advance. No person, without expressed permission of Copperfield Publishing Inc., may take more than one copy of any Salt Lake City Weekly issue. No portion of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the written permission of the publisher. Third-class postage paid at Midvale, UT. Delivery might take up to one full week. All rights reserved.

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SOAP BOX “Time’s Up,” Sept. 16 Cover Story

This is one of the best articles I’ve read that clearly explains our current and not-too-distant future. Thank you Jim Catano for your courage in writing it! It does not have the shortcomings that so many articles on the topic of climate change succumb to: It’s not too long; it’s not full of scientific jargon, statistics and projections about 2100, a date so far in the future (for humans, anyway), it can be easily ignored; it leaves hope out and uses Mad Max’s quote to explain why. Brave and brilliant. And thank you for your last line that sums up what we can do: Live nobly and well in whatever time we have left. I’m a person that prefers the eyes-wideopen approach to life. To read your article in the mainstream press is balm for the spirit and hopeful in it’s own, unhopeful way. Bravo. CHARLIE STEIN

Boulder, Colorado

@SLCWEEKLY

Take It With a Grain of Salt

“Time’s Up” is a silly essay, and I’m surprised the local paper ran it. [Guy] McPherson is a conspiracy theorist, and what he says should be taken with a grain of salt. Yes, climate change will soon get much worse, but his views are at odds with the scientific community. SHANELLE LOREN

via Twitter

Lock ‘Em Up

The mainstream in Utah have become the certified lunatic fringe. Those who feel themselves safe because they are vaccinated have teamed up with the unvaccinated and also with Utah’s political and business elite. The whole lot of them are piling it on with our traditional prepandemic seasonal entertainments like food and cultural festivals, the state fair, music concerts and fall football games. All the while, hospitals are overflowing with patients. Let’s go eat out after all the fun! My plea to the sheriff? Please jail my neighbors.

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They are brandishing weapons of mass destruction with every breath and they don’t get it. Meanwhile, we have 50 spineless governors and one spineless president all posing for selfies. Ron DeSantis, the governor of Florida, suggests there is an article in the Constitution prohibiting vaccine mandates. I did not hear anything about a Constitutional Convention, so I wonder how that prohibition got in there when it never was there before. DeSantis thinks his new rendition of constitutional history qualifies him to run for president in 2024. Doesn’t take much these days. KIMBALL SHINKOSKEY

Woods Cross

Time to Vote for the Best of Utah

Editor’s note: Don’t forget to cast your ballot for City Weekly’s 2021 Best of Utah awards. Visit cityweekly.net/bestofutah or scan the QR code on page 37 of this issue. Care to sound off on a feature in our pages or about a local concern? Write to comments@cityweekly.net or post your thoughts on our social media. We want to hear from you!

THE BOX

If you had 10 minutes to evacuate your house, what would you grab (minus humans and fur babies)?

Pete Saltas

A week’s worth of Hanes, a jacket, jeans, my boots and all hatchets/axes and pocket knives.

Benjamin Wood

Definitely my laptop and phone, and then maybe a few of my vinyl records.

Tom Metos Vodka.

Aspen Perry

Photographs and archive collection of Vogue and New Philosopher magazines. In fact, I’m going to make sure these are placed near each other as soon as I’m done typing this as part of our emergency preparedness plan.

Deno Roumpos My golf clubs.

Chelsea Neider

My laptop, because I would still need to work, and one of my paintings, because they would all be gone.

Carolyn Campbell

I would grab all the photos of my family, from today and all the years past. There’s no way I could re-stage those scenes!

Bryan Bale

I’d start with my bicycle, bike trailer, laptop, phone, wallet, keys, backpack and my guitar.

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OPINION God Is a Football Fan BYU owes its success to diversity.

he years of 1968-1971 were defining years for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and its academies of higher learning. They certainly launched a new age for the BYU Cougars. During that period of both great unrest and bounding civil rights progress, Brigham Young University was coming under regular attack—particularly from other universities’ sports teams who felt there was a moral issue in playing a school that had a highly visible racist policy. Mormonism’s discrimination was certainly no secret, teaching from its ward houses and world-wide general conferences that Black individuals had been cursed with their dark skin because of their failure to be valiant in the pre-mortal war in heaven. Since Mormonism’s 1830 debut into the

world of religions, the priesthood—available to all worthy whites—was not available to men of African descent. During its pre-enlightenment period, BYU was strictly segregated, with the exception that then-President David O. McKay, in the 1950s, did allow scholarships to two Nigerians, in conjunction with an experimental pilot-program in their country. McKay’s counselor, Harold B. Lee, protested the move in a BYU trustee’s meeting, and the program was immediately nixed. Keep in mind, the old Hotel Utah, owned by the church, didn’t allow Blacks to enter until the 1950s—and then, only through the service entrance—and LDS Hospital, also Mormon-owned, once found it necessary to state that its blood bank was stocked strictly with white blood (the American Red Cross maintained a practice of segregating blood until 1950). While church leaders would eventually try to bury the doctrine as an aberrant personal prejudice of its second president and prophet, Brigham Young, evidence is clear that Mormons believed—and some continue to believe—that people of African descent were cursed by God. Despite more modern pronouncements, there’s plenty of evidence that it was, indeed, a matter of doctrine. In the meantime, the church held fast to

BY MICHAEL S. ROBINSON SR. its racial views, withholding full matriculation for Black students. But the winds of change were already in motion. Preparatory to a 1969 football game with BYU, 14 Black University of Wyoming football players decided to wear armbands to protest BYU’s policies. It could have been an effective statement. Instead, their coach suspended the players because protest was forbidden under their university’s rules. All 14 were stripped of their scholarships and banned from UW sports. Really sad, but resistance to BYU segregation was just beginning. Teams like Stanford and San Jose State refused to play BYU, and during those tense racial years, there were regular protests, demonstrations, picketers and even some violent confrontations at games— things BYU could not ignore, and something that the Mormon church was forced to address. And, of course it did. Mormon historians and authorities may try to duck the impact of an ever-challenged, all-white sports program, but it was largely BYU sports that moved the church toward a more inclusive policy. BYU football was on the road to greatness. The rest is history. In 1978, thenchurch President Spencer W. Kimball made the announcement that Black Lat-

ter-day Saint men were to be allowed to receive the priesthood. Here’s my own version of that history: Apparently in 1975, God finally got his first peek at satellite TV and became a rabid BYU sports fan. He simply wanted to see BYU on the winning side of things, but that was virtually impossible. Presto! The Black-exclusion doctrine was eliminated. Now that you understand God is a football aficionado, you’ll know why your Saturday-night prayers are going directly to voicemail. Sitting there with his bowl of popcorn, he simply can’t be bothered on game days by the trifles of mankind. While I did my undergraduate and graduate studies at the U, it gives me satisfaction to know that yet another Utah team is headed for a great football season. Today, BYU Football has about 43 players of color, an equally integrated coaching staff, and BYU has been named to the Big 12 Conference. It seems that the 1978 revelation has been a great success. Going Technicolor made all the difference. CW Private Eye is off this week. Michael S. Robinson is a retired businessman, novelist, columnist and former Vietnam-era Army assistant public information officer. Send feedback to comments@cityweekly.net.

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HITS&MISSES BY KATHARINE BIELE @kathybiele

MISS: High and Dry

Not to be too wonky, but you really should hear what anthropologist Eric Cline has to say about the apocalypse. Actually, he’s talking more about the things that cause a civilization to collapse than religious revelations. And even though Cline likes to delve into the Bronze Age, he makes it clear that modern-day civilization could be nearing the end as we know it. Let’s start with drought. In his presentations on NPR and YouTube, Cline notes that a few years of drought don’t necessarily spell disaster, but drought in a climatechanging world might. You’ve heard the governor whine about saving water, but a Salt Lake Tribune report showed that Utah has the highest per-capita municipal water use in the nation—and still some of the lowest water rates. Even Sen. Mitt Romney thinks we’re not addressing this existential threat. The lakes and rivers are drying up and yet our answer to the problem is prayer, even while waterguzzling developments are growing and Utah’s esteemed rural guardian Mike McKell is planning a golf course in the desert. What could possibly go wrong?

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MISS: Voter Indifference

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The Utah Foundation just released a report on the stunning strength of citizen participation in public meetings. But then it turned to the curious news of low voter turnout. It says we “surged” to 13th out of the 50 states in the 2020 midterms, but fell to 39th in the presidential election. What gives? We know Utahns get hot and bothered about all kinds of issues, but voting? Meh. That is likely because of the politically monolithic nature of the state. Let’s take citizen participation, though, and the inland port. There has been broad citizen participation, even as the port board plays in the dark. A recent letter from Salt Lake City to “Jack and Jill”—the Port Authority honchos—expressed disdain that no city representatives are taking part in the creation of a Public Infrastructure District bent on issuing $150 million in taxpayer-backed bonds for a transloading facility. The Port Authority doesn’t really like the loud and insistent public participation in this area, but it moves ahead anyway because they can depend on a lack of engagement from voters.

HIT: Hard Lessons

Speaking of public participation—how about the anti-vaxxers. Frankly, it’s too bad the media pays so much attention to them. Sunday’s Salt Lake Tribune, however, featured the poignant and personal story of Luke Peterson, who delved into his late father’s early childhood polio and what he now sees as the postpolio syndrome that marked his father’s later life. Vaccination: That’s what it’s all about. Polio is hardly on people’s minds these days, having been virtually eradicated by its vaccine, but COVID-19 is. Despite stories—like those in the Trib— about devastated families that regret their decisions not to vaccinate, Utahns persist in their fight for liberty and death. Not even the threat to their children’s health has changed their minds. Maybe reading about Bob Peterson will.

CITIZEN REV LT IN A WEEK, YOU CAN CHANGE THE WORLD

Stop the Gerrymander

This is your last chance to weigh in on the redistricting process—something that takes place only once every 10 years after the census. After a bevy of public hearings from both the Legislature and the Utah Independent Redistricting Commission, maps will be drawn and sent to the all-powerful Legislature to make the final cut. You can have an influence on where they draw those boundaries. Attend any or all of the Legislative Redistricting Committee Public Hearings and/or the Utah Independent Redistricting Commission Public Hearings. In-person or virtual: Friday, Sept. 24, Cedar City, 1 p.m. and Roosevelt, 6 p.m.; Saturday, Sept. 25, St. George, 10 a.m. and Ephraim, 11 a.m., free. utahredistricting.org

Supreme Court Preview

Despite the exhortations to the contrary, the U.S. Supreme Court is bathed in partisan politics. Take a few minutes to explore what the justices will be ruling on in their next session at Supreme Court Preview of the 2021-2022 Term. The list of topics on the court’s docket includes abortion, the 2nd Amendment, religious liberty, disability discrimination, national security and more. Two distinguished Supreme Court litigators will take you through cases like New York State Rifle & Pistol Association Inc. v. Bruen, which looks at whether New York’s restrictive firearm licensing violates the Second Amendment. Or there’s Carsen v. Makin, in which the high court will determine whether a state violates the First or 14th amendments if it excludes religious schools from publicly funded student aid. Virtual, Tuesday, Sept. 28, 11 a.m., free. https://bit.ly/3E19SBK

Climate Strike

The world is killing itself, and most people recognize that climate change is the reason. Still, they do nothing. “The time to act on climate change is now,” say the youths leading Global Climate Strike, which culminates in a march to the state Capitol. Without a swift and dramatic reduction in carbon emissions, the effects of climate change will be catastrophic, according to warnings from the International Panel on Climate Change. “Parents, grandparents, teachers and government officials: Do you love us, do you love your children?” asks 14-year-old Natalie Roberts. “If you truly did, we wouldn’t be scared to death about what our future will hold. We wouldn’t be striking weekly to demand action on the climate crisis you have caused.” Washington Square Park, north side, 451 S. State, 11 a.m., free. https://bit.ly/3CjVT8A

Candidate Forums

It’s that time of year when politics goes wild and candidates try to get their message out to the public. Be a better voter and check out some of these important events before the election. Cottonwood Heights Candidate Forum features the city’s Council Districts 3 and 4 and mayoral race. Bountiful Meet the Candidates: General Election features four city council candidates and three mayoral candidates. Cottonwood: Cottonwood City Hall, 2277 E. Bengal Blvd., Cottonwood Heights, Tuesday, Sept. 28, 5:30 p.m., free. https://bit.ly/3kiYyZZ Bountiful: Bountiful City Hall, 795 S. Main Street, Bountiful, 6:30 p.m., free. https://bit.ly/3zh26A9

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Complete listings online at cityweekly.net

ERIC CHRISTENSEN

ENTERTAINMENT PICKS, SEPTEMBER 23-29, 2021

Odyssey Dance: Thriller Let’s face it: The world is a scary place. As many real-world things as there are to jangle our nerves, however, the Halloween season still offers a chance embraced by many to confront the creepier parts of life, real or fantastical, in a way that feels safe and controllable. And for 25 years, Odyssey Dance has embraced that notion with its hugely successful seasonal production of Thriller. As anyone who has enjoyed the show over the years knows, Thriller takes some of the most familiar scare-acters from popular culture—Frankenstein’s monster, the Mummy, Friday the 13th’s masked and machete-wielding Jason—and drops them into high-energy choreography brought to life by Odyssey’s gifted troupe of dancers. While much of the popular repertoire remains the same from

year to year, each new season brings different twists and surprises, so that even stalwart attendees have something fresh to experience. While 2020 marked an interruption of sorts in Thriller’s typical touring throughout the state—limited-capacity in-person performances did take place, in addition to a streaming option—this year marks a return to all of the production’s favorite venues. This week, things get rolling Sept. 24-26 at Park City’s Egyptian Theatre (328 Main St.) with additional performances through Oct. 10. Additional shows are scheduled for Peery’s Egyptian Theatre in Ogden (Sept. 27-28), Logan’s Ellen Eccles Theatre (Oct. 4-5), Kingsbury Hall (Oct. 11-23) and Tuacahn Amphitheatre (Oct. 26-30). Visit odysseydance.com for full schedule and ticket pricing, as well as health & safety requirements for individual venues. (Scott Renshaw)

Salt Lake Symphony Community orchestras, like so many other performing arts organizations, found themselves shifting and adapting over the past year, including using safer outdoor venues, offering streaming performances and selecting works that would require fewer musicians to be in the same space together. For the Salt Lake Symphony—a volunteerdriven organization celebrating its 45th season—the 2021-2022 season marks a return to performances with the full orchestra, and a chance to apply some of the past year’s reflection on new ideas. “The events of the previous year’s pandemic and social protests have allowed for an expansion of the way we think of presenting concerts and how we might choose music to perform,” writes symphony director Robert Baldwin (pictured). “I am particularly looking forward to our April concert that celebrates diversity within the dream of America, with music by Florence Price and Peter Boyer.” For the season opener, Salt Lake Symphony offers a program that

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includes Verdi’s overture from La Forza del Destino, Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 4 and Charles Ives’ The Unanswered Question, the latter a unique piece in which strings, brass and woodwinds are conducted individually in independent tempos. The performance takes place at Libby Gardner Hall (1375 E. Presidents Circle) Sept. 25, 7:30 p.m. Admission is only $10 for adults, $5 for students and seniors; proof of COVID-19 vaccination will be required of all adult patrons, and patrons under 12 will be required to be masked during the performance. Visit saltlakesymphony.org for tickets and additional information, including programming for upcoming performances throughout the season. (SR)

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ENTERTAINMENT PICKS, SEPTEMBER 23-29, 2021

Complete listings online at cityweekly.net

Your fall planting headquarters

Being a swarmy smart-ass sometimes pays off. Just ask Jon Lovitz. The characters he famously portrayed during his six-year stint on Saturday Night Live—Tommy Flanagan, The Pathological Liar, Annoying Man, Master Thespian, Mephistopheles, Tonto, Harvey Fierstein and of course, Hanukkah Harry—all shared an insufferable attitude as part of their persona. But unlike most boors and braggarts Lovitz had us cheering for more. While those oddballs and eccentrics brought him his initial fame, Lovitz’s career has continue to flourish, garnering him any number of lucrative voiceover roles, appearances in film and on television, a successful stint on Broadway, choice commercial campaigns, stand-up success, a podcast, and even his own comedy club. Granted, we realize that those obnoxious entities he inhabits have nothing to do with the man’s actual personality, but being the clever comedian he is, it can be tough to tell them apart. Perhaps there’s more of the aforementioned Master Thespian in him than he himself would care to concede. Lovitz’s chameleon-like ability to shift

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Jon Lovitz

personas is a credit to his comedic genius, which he’s carefully honed over the course of more than 40 years. Or, as Tommy Flanagan was famously known to say, “Yeah, that’s the ticket!” Given the laughter we’ll be getting in return, that particular ticket is well worth the price of admission. Jon Lovitz plays Wiseguys Gateway (194 S. 400 West) Sept. 23 - 25 at 7 p.m., with an additional show Saturday at 9:30 pm. Tickets cost $35 and can be purchased at wiseguyscomedy.com or calling 801-532-5233. (Lee Zimmerman)

Anderson Cooper: Vanderbilt: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty Famously known as one of the journalistic mainstays of CNN and CBS’ 60 Minutes, Anderson Cooper has collected 18 Emmys and one of the most prestigious honors accorded by the news industry overall, the Edward R. Murrow Award. However, his acumen and accomplishments don’t stop there. He’s also a New York Times bestselling author. His latest work, Vanderbilt: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty, finds him teaming up with historian and novelist Katherine Howe for a remarkable tale of triumph and travails as personified by a legendary American dynasty, the Vanderbilts. Cooper has more insight into this allAmerican tale of rags and riches than most. He is, in fact, the great-great-great-grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, the man who built an economic empire from a humble, hardscrabble existence during the beginnings of

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the 19th century. By the time he died at the age of 82, he had amassed a fortune that was the envy of all. Nevertheless, it eventually crumbled, leaving his heirs to pick up the pieces. Told from a rare personal perspective, Cooper shares a tale that trumps most others in terms of avarice and ambition. It resonates even now. The Kings English presents Anderson Cooper via a Zoom event on Friday, Sept. 24 at 4 p.m. Tickets cost $38, and include a hardcover copy of Vanderbilt: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty. An access code and password will be emailed 24 hours before the event. Go to eventbrite.com for tickets and instructions. (LZ)

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Bianca Del Rio talks COVIDera performance and playing to her strengths as a performer. BY SCOTT RENSHAW scottr@cityweekly.net @scottrenshaw Bianca Del Rio became best known as the winner of Season 6 of RuPaul’s Drag Race, but that has only been part of a 25-year performing career that has included the U.K. touring cast of the musical Everybody’s Talking About Jamie (currently available via Amazon Prime Video) and shows around the world. Bianca spoke to City Weekly in advance of this week’s Salt Lake City stop on her Unsanitized tour. CW: What have the past 18 months have been like for the drag community, and how has it pulled together, especially during the time when live performance wasn’t really possible? BDR: It’s been weird. Everybody’s lives kind of had this cultural reset, and we had to find every other possible way to make a living. So there was a lot of doing on-line shows, recorded shows. I even did a drivein drag show. … It definitely was a struggle, and kind of new to me. I’ve been doing this since 1996, so it was the first time I had to kind of sit and think about what I wanted to do. CW: The live audience is such a part of drag performance; how did you find the energy of the alternate formats?

A&E

CW: The name of the Unsanitized tour is clearly a nod to the time that we’re living through. Has it been challenging finding a way to talk about something that’s still very present in a way that’s still fun and entertaining? BDR: I think it’s important to find the humor in anything. This is no different from death; we have to find ways to laugh at things. The audiences so far have been great and very supportive. We need laughter, to find our way out of it mentally. I’m on my fifth night of 9,000 performances, and in terms of audience response, so far, so good.

MATT CROCKETT

Audience With the Queen

BDR: For me in particular, I prefer a live audience. It was all kind of surreal, but I was just happy to get out of my house. Three months in, I thought, ‘I’ve got to do something.’ I knew the producers [of the drive-in tour], and they said, ‘Do you want to get out on the road?’ There were no meetand-greets, and it was just easing back into our new life, but at least it was something.

CW: One of the more touching subplots in Everybody’s Talking About Jamie involves the character you played on stage giving Jamie [the main character, a teenage aspiring drag queen] a history lesson about blazing trails in an earlier generation, where drag performance was much less accepted. What has it been like to observe drag move into the mainstream? BDR: Well, it’s changed tremendously. There was a time you could only find drag queens in a club, a bar, a cabaret space. It was male actors, using male names, impersonating stars. “Gay” was never mentioned, the gay lifestyle was never mentioned. In the ’90s, there were few places to express ourselves. To see it now on TV, and a situation where I could now play Carnegie Hall, it’s changed tremendously. But with the good comes the bad, including social media. To me, that’s all noise. If you like me, you like me; if you don’t like me, you don’t like me.

parts of that combination that perhaps came most naturally to you, and others that you had to stretch a little more to master? BDR: I came from a time when you had to have an act. There was the drag queen who lip-synched, there was the comedian, there was the dancer. And I remember thinking that’s what made a good show, having something for everyone. Now, if you’re pretty in an Instagram photo, “ooh, I’m a drag queen.” And that is a talent in itself, finding the right filter. But for me, I was most comfortable hosting shows and talking. It wasn’t really being comedian; it was dealing with drunk people while stalling for costume changes. I don’t feel obliged or threatened any more to do everything. I do what I do. You gravitate towards what really works for you. [Comedy] became my safest place, where most queens are terrified of talking.

CW: Drag is such a fascinating hybrid of all kinds of performance. Are there

CW: When you play a place like Salt Lake City, that obviously has a reputa-

Bianca Del Rio

tion for being more straight-laced than a lot of other cities, do you like to have fun with that in your performance? BDR: Oh God yes, you have to [individualize], especially when you travel internationally. When I’m in the U.K., no one wants to hear about Trump, you talk about Boris [Johnson]. How can you not go to Florida and talk about the insanity there? … This time, just because of other tour dates, I have a few days off in Salt Lake City, so I’ll be able to give you a better report. I can guarantee you I won’t be hiking and out in nature. CW

BIANCA DEL RIO: UNSANITIZED

Eccles Theater 131 S. Main St. Sunday, Sept. 26, 7:30 p.m. live-at-the-eccles.com

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SEASON Recipes to make the most of the fall harvest. COMPILED BY DEVOUR UTAH WRITERS AIMEE L. COOK, CAROLYN CAMPBELL & ARI LEVAUX

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all is here, heralding golden days of gorging on produce that’s holding on even into September. Your hard work from the spring and summer is likely rewarding you with more tomatoes, eggplant, corn, squash, pears, peaches and apples than you can face. Here to share favorite recipes to help you get the most from your fading gardens and your remaining farmers market spoils are local chefs Mike Blocher of Table X, Nick Zocco of Afterword, Ken Rose of Tiburon, Rob Perkins of Franck’s as well as food writer Ari LeVaux. Should these recipes not inspire you, don’t let your produce shrivel on the vine! Chop up what remains in the garden and make a savory veggie stew.

Cream and Caramel

Mike Blocher, and partner Nick Fahs, of Table X, grow a variety of seasonal items in their onsite garden located behind the restaurant, which doubles as a lovely seating area on warm days. Table X has a full-time gardener, Gwen Orchard, who assists in planning the garden each season and caring for it. The goal is to find unique items that can be incorporated into the menu. Recently, they have had great success with “husk cherries”—similar to a gooseberry, savory like a tomato but with a sweet profile, it is prepared by removing the husks and then salting for the amuse bouche course of the tasting menu. Currently, at Table X, diners can enjoy a five- or seven-course tasting menu on a daily basis.

Creamy Polenta With Caramelized Vegetables

“One of my all-time favorite comfort foods is rich creamy polenta with braised meat or caramelized vegetables in a flavorful sauce,” Blocher said. “This dish is perfect for the end of summer/early fall with the warm days and chilly nights. For this recipe, you can use any veggies you have hanging around—like onions, eggplant, kale or other hearty greens, cabbage, carrots, etc. We choose mushrooms because of our long-running partnership with Adam Wong and Intermountain Gourmet Mushrooms in Ogden. His mushrooms can be found every week at the Downtown Farmers Market. Feel free to stray from the specifics of this recipe and use what you have lying around.”

Chefs Mike Blocher, left, and partner Nick Fahs, of Table X

JOHN TAYLOR

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16 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

SAVOR THE

Soft Polenta (make first) Ingredients 1 minced yellow onion 4 tablespoons melted butter 1 cup corn meal 3 cups water 2 cups whole milk 2 ounces grated white cheddar cheese (any melting cheese will work) 5 ounces whole cubed butter salt and pepper to taste 1 cup mascarpone cheese or cream cheese (to serve)

Caramelized Mushrooms Ingredients 1 shallot, sliced 8 ounces mushrooms (anything from Intermountain Gourmet at the Downtown Farmers Market) 2 ounces white wine 8 ounces chicken or vegetable stock 1 cube butter Juice of half a lemon Vegetable oil as needed Kosher salt as needed Fresh ground black pepper as needed Garnishes: Fresh chopped herbs of choice

Process In a heavy bottom saucepan, sweat onions in melted butter and a pinch of salt until translucent. While onions are sweating, in a separate cooking vessel, heat milk and water together until the mixture simmers. Make sure simmered milk/water mixture is seasoned. When onions are fully translucent, add cornmeal to onions and mix it together for about 1 minute. Make sure polenta is coated with butter and mixed evenly with sweated onions. Add the hot milk/water mixture to the polenta and onions in four stages, stirring with a whisk to fully incorporate at each stage. After all the liquid has been added, bring to a low boil. Do not stop stirring until it comes to a boil or it will become lumpy and/or sink to the bottom of the pot and burn. Gently simmer for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the polenta is fully cooked, add in grated cheese and the butter. Adjust seasoning and reserve in a covered dish in a 200-degree oven to hold while making the mushrooms.

Process Heat a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to just coat the bottom of the pan. Sauté the shallots until they are translucent. Add all of the mushrooms and stir. Cook down the mushrooms until they start to lightly brown and begin to stick a little to the pan. Once they start to stick, add the white wine to deglaze the pan. Once the wine is almost completely reduced, add the chicken stock and bring to a light simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and add the butter and lemon juice and stir to combine. Add chopped herbs. To Serve: Place a big scoop of polenta in a shallow bowl and pour the mushrooms and remaining broth into the bowl around the polenta. Top with a spoonful of mascarpone to let melt in while eating. (By Aimee L. Cook)

Table X

1457 E. 3350 South, Salt Lake City 385-528-3712 tablexrestaurant.com

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SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 17

Afterword chef Nick Zocco utilizes produce from Tupelo Farm as well as other local sources.

COURTESY PHOTO

Where possible, Afterword restaurant by Tupelo Park City utilizes produce grown on chef/owner Matt Harris’ property—known as Tupelo Farm—as well as that sourced from other local producers. Currently, Chris Pyper from Rustling Aspen Farm is overseeing the land and supplying produce like kale, chards and squash, kohlrabi and beets to the restaurant. Fall is the time of year when the restaurant really highlights local farms and dictates how the restaurant will run. Chef Nick Zocco says they like to highlight raw vegetables and turn produce into dishes with a seasonal aspect. The menu will change depending on what’s coming in from the farms. Peaches are one of those seasonal items.

Peach Basil Preserves

“I love this recipe because it’s so versatile,” said Zocco. “When the peaches are blended into more of a spread, it can become a condiment for many applications, from classic breakfast toast spread to multiple types of breads, cheese and crackers, glazed proteins and added to BBQ sauces. When chunky, it can be a nice condiment for charcuterie boards.”

Nick Zocco: Patience is key to creating peach basil preserves.

Ingredients 3 pounds (1545 grams) of fresh yellow-fleshed peaches—about 12 medium-size, local preferred. They should be ripe (but not over ripe). 2 ¾ cups (650grams) organic cane sugar 1 lemon (juice only) 6-10 fresh basil leaves (chopped fine or torn) Canning jars (about 6-8 half-pint jars)

Notes: This recipe is time-consuming, and patience is key. Preserving is long work and takes time. Follow steps closely. You can find steam canning techniques on YouTube. Allow time for the peaches to cool, which releases natural pectin and the setting of the sugars. This is why I let cool and then reheat; it creates a natural texture. Pectin can be added but should be used wisely so that the mixture sets quickly but not too stiff. Remember, preserving is not always going to be exactly the same each time. This will depend on moisture, sugar and ripeness of the fruit used. Adjustments may be needed, such as time. (By Aimee L. Cook)

Afterword by Tupelo Park City 98 S. Main St., Heber City 435-615-7700 afterwordrestaurant.com

Pleasing Produce, Elegant Elk

Each year, when Le Potager (the quarter-acre garden behind Tiburon restaurant) starts growing, the kitchen staff gathers herbs and vegetables daily. Ken Rose, Tiburon’s owner and chef, describes it as “an all-natural garden, where we grow things we use in bulk—tomatoes, peppers, fresh herbs and squash.” The garden features large blackberry and strawberry patches along with an extensive herb garden. “It’s a labor of love to harvest fresh herbs to use in our kitchen,” Rose says. He adds that Tiburon’s biggest harvest is heirloom tomatoes. “We grow 120 plants every year—12 to 15 varieties in different sizes and colors,” he says. “In addition, we throw in something fun, possibly a winter vegetable, like baby carrots or beets, every year.” He says, “We’ve worked for years to make our working garden an extension of our romantic atmosphere.” Diners may enjoy a stroll through the picturesque garden before or after their meal in the restaurant building which once was home to a fruit stand. Today, Rose describes this upscale Sandy eatery as elegant and approachable. He takes pride in his 22-year Tiburon ownership. “It’s one of Utah’s longest-lasting fine-dining establishments,” he says. “It is intimate, yet surprisingly casual. High-end, but not stuffy. Stuffy is boring, if you ask me.” Just as Rose has firmly established Tiburon’s classy ambiance, the signature char-broiled New Zealand elk tenderloin dish is also a lasting favorite. Rose served the smooth, melt-in-your-mouth meat dish the night Tiburon opened, and it remains perennially popular more than two decades later. Other well-liked entrees include Tecumseh Farms free-range chicken, ahi tuna, Atlantic salmon and cowboy ribeye. “As a chef, there’s nothing better than to grab something fresh out of your garden,” says Rose. “I only wish our Utah growing season were longer.”

NIKI CHAN WYLIE

Process Wash peaches under warm water. Heat a 6-quart stockpot with water to a simmer. Cut an (X) with a sharp knife on the bottom of the peaches. Blanch peaches in simmering water for around 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, “shock” the peaches in cold water. This will allow easier peeling of the skin. Begin peeling. Place peeled peaches in a separate bowl and cut them into chunks. Toss with the sugar and lemon juice. Place the peach mix in a 6-quart heavy stockpot or enameled castiron (i.e., Le Creuset) pot. Bring the peaches to a simmer, low boil for about 30 minutes. Stir every 10 minutes. Turn off heat and let sit for at least 8 hours or overnight, covering with a lid. After time has passed, reheat the mixture to a low boil for a second time for another 30 minutes. Turn off heat and let sit for an additional 30 minutes. Using a pressure cooker or Instant Pot, sterilize the jars for 1 minute on the steam setting using 1 cup of water and teaspoon vinegar. Add the basil to the peaches and mix lightly with a wooden spoon. Or you can blend the mixture for a smooth consistency. Add the warm preserves to a warm (not cold) jar. Fill to at least ¼-inch from the top of the jar. Seal the jar. Place the sealed jar in the pressure cooker. Use 3 cups of water in the cooker. Using the steam setting with the vent valve open, cook the jars for 25 minutes. Start your time when the float valve is closed at the top. Turn off the cooker after 25 minutes. After the pressure cooker has cooled, remove the jars carefully and place on counter to cool naturally and listen for the lid to pop closed. If the lids don’t pop, place in the refrigerator and enjoy sooner.

Tiburon owner Ken Rose describes the restaurant’s culinary garden as “a labor of love.”

COURTESY PHOTO

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18 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

Preserving Summer

Tiburon Burrata Caprese

This fresh, simple dish is also very delicious, says chef Ken Rose.

Ingredients 2 cups of heirloom tomatoes 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 4-ounce ball of burrata cheese Seasonings Kosher salt Black pepper Olive oil Balsamic reduction (or vinegar) 4 basil leaves Sourdough bread Process Take heirloom tomatoes and “rough chop” them into approximately ½ inch pieces. Add one teaspoon of sugar and one teaspoon of salt Simmer them until the moisture reduces by half. Let them cool until they thicken like a marmalade, for two hours or overnight. Place the cooled tomato marmalade in a small bowl. Top with ball of burrata cheese (available at the Downtown Farmers Market, Harmons grocery stores or Restaurant Depot) Add a generous amount of olive oil,

and top with a little balsamic reduction (or a dash of balsamic vinegar) Finish with sea salt or kosher salt and fresh-cracked black pepper. As the last step, chop four fresh basil leaves and sprinkle them over the top. Serve with crusty sourdough bread. “Harmons has the best bread in the city,” says Rose. To preserve the bread, store it in a sealed plastic container. (By Carolyn Campbell)

Tiburon

8256 S. 700 East, Sandy 801-255-1200 tiburonfinedining.com

“If you eat a Red Haven peach, you’ll feel like you’ve never had a peach before,” says Perkins. “They are firm, but if you cut into one, it’s so luscious and juicy, it’s like it almost bleeds peach juice.”

ZUKES BY ARI LEVAUX

Process Place vinegar, salt, sugar, mustard seed, bay leaf and thyme in a saucepot. Bring to a simmer just until the sugar dissolves, then turn off and set aside. Cut peaches in half and remove the pit. Cut peaches into eighths, then add to pickle liquid. Let the hot liquid with the peaches come down to room temperature while stirring often to rotate submerged peaches. Refrigerate for up to 10 days. Enjoy with heirloom tomatoes and burrata. Also goes great with grilled meats. (By Carolyn Campbell)

Franck’s

6263 E. Holladay Blvd., Holladay 801-274-6264 francksfood.com

Zucchini French toast : A “molten eggy masterpiece.”

coast of Canada. The next morning, Marilyn made pancakes with grated yellow zucchini, and they were moist and fluffy. That afternoon we stuck a green one into a batch of triple chocolate cookies, and nobody but us were the wiser. I came home with a truckload of ideas for what to do with zucchini, as well as a baseball bat-sized specimen that Marilyn snuck into the bed of the truck before we took off. When we got home I sliced it in half, lengthwise, and threw it to the chickens. As far as I know that’s the only thing you can do with a big zuke.

Zucchini French Toast

SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 19

[Read more at arilevaux.com/inserting-zucchini]

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When preparing zucchini for humans, the fruits should be no longer than a foot-long hot dog. If you need direction in cooking them, you could do worse than fry some slices in butter. Me, I was inspired by those pancakes. When I got home I grated some yellow zucchini and added it to a French toast batter, so the long shreds got plastered onto the bread by the egg mixture. As they cooked in the hot pan below the weight of egg-soaked bread, the zucchini strands released water, which instantly turned into steam, cooking the interior of the toast into a moist, molten eggy masterpiece that crushed the non-zucchini-enhanced control toast. They were moister and fluffier than the control group, and the kids couldn’t for the life of them figure out what brought about the improvement until they looked at the stringy leftover batter. When we ran out of bread, we soaked up the rest of the egg mixture with grated zucchini and made fritters. For four pieces of bread, I used two eggs, a tablespoon of vanilla, a teaspoon of cinnamon, a half-cup of milk, a half cup of finely grated zucchini and a pinch of salt. Mix thoroughly and coat the bread. Fry it in butter. Put a pad atop each piece before flipping it so there is plenty where it needs to be.

ou know the routine. Winter gives way to spring, which is followed gently by summer, which glides into the season of getting rid of zucchinis. During those tense few weeks, neighbors and even strangers are afraid to make eye contact, lest a zucchini gets tossed, like some baby that you have to catch. And then it’s yours. And you, likewise belong to the zucchini. In the northern Rockies, zucchini season often aligns with fire season. In need of fresh air last week, I took my family to the Pacific coast, where we were able to escape the smoke. But not the zucchinis. Our friend Marilyn didn’t need to shove whole zucchinis in our faces to make them go away, because we were her guests. She was feeding us. We were captive. We were hungry. We were zucchini disappearing machines, and she used us strategically, like tools. The zucchini bread came first, with breakfast, which nobody in their right mind could turn down. The vegetable stir-fry that accompanied the salmon we had for lunch had more green zucchini, and we polished it all off. After getting rid of several green zucchini in that manner, she switched to yellow that evening. Yellow zukes are easier to disappear into other dishes than the greens, she later confided. But that night she let her cooking do the talking, as she baked a quiche souffle out of yellow zucchini and Dungeness crab, a recipe invented by her sister, who lives on an island off the

ARI LE VAUX

Ingredients 4 Red Haven peaches (available from Mandi’s Microgreens) ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon mustard seed 2 bay leaves 1 sprig of thyme 2 cups of rice vinegar

A Red Haven peach is firm, but “bleeds” juice, says chef Rob Perkins of Franck’s.

Quick Pickle Red Haven Peach

PUT UP YOUR

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After local farmers’ markets close to the public on Saturday nights, Rob Perkins calls to see what produce they still have available to sell. “I can sometimes get kohlrabi, beet greens, whole beets, bok choi,” he says. As Franck’s executive chef, Perkins uses fresh produce as a vital component of his culinary creations. “I try to use as few nonlocal farmers as possible,” he says. Perkins changes Franck’s menu almost daily. “My esthetic is eclectic and fun dishes. I like to show a little whimsy in all of our food.’ He smiles, “It keeps me young; I don’t sleep a lot.” Perkins also enhances his culinary creativity by accessing produce from a variety of local farms. For example, he says that an impending delivery of sugar baby watermelon will soon augment the prime rib on the next Tasting Tuesday. “We inject it with a little bit of cayenne water and compress it just a bit to cook in contrast.” He adds, “I like to have flavor, texture and temperature contrasts so that your palate stays motivated to eat.” His watermelon source, Mandi’s Microgreens in Bountiful, “grows some wildly wacky tigger melon. It’s never a musky melon; it’s savory and funky rather than sweet.” He adds, “We ferment that tigger melon to counterpoint the wagyu beef—it counterbalances that fatty unctuousness.” Mandi’s is also the source of Franck’s heirloom tomatoes used to fashion their tomato appetizer. “We add fermented blackberry lavender aguachile to give it more kick and deaden some of the sweetness,” he explains. “When we have a high sweetness, we tamp that down with bitterness and aggressive seasoning.” Perkins began working with the restaurant’s namesake, Franck Peissel, who now works in Park City. “I worked with him for 20 years. He and I opened the restaurant in 2001, and we’ve been kicking ever since.” Thinking back to his days as the Franck’s sous chef,

Perkins says, “I spend my whole life trying to hold true to what we were back then.” He concludes, “We try to keep everything as local as possible. We try to have fun.”

CAROLYN CAMPBELL

Fresh Creativity

20 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | CITY WEEKLY |

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22 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

Sehr Gut ! Old world flavor in the heart of Salt Lake

20 W. 200 S. SLC | (801) 355-3891

siegfriedsdelicatessen.com AS SEEN ON “ DINERS, DRIVEINS AND DIVES”

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Award Winning Donuts

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705 S. 700 E. | (801) 537-1433

BY ALEX SPRINGER comments@cityweekly.net @captainspringer

HAND

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30 E BROADWAY, SLC UT 801-355-0667

SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 23

GOSH DARN DELICIOUS!

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erforming feats of gastronomic daredevilry at the State Fair is one of the most exhilarating things a local foodie can do. The Utah State Fairpark has watched me scarf down everything from alligator meat to fried grasshoppers at this annual celebration, and I have no regrets whatsoever. As fun as all that adventurous gorging is, there’s always a bit of post-fair ennui that wafts in once it’s all said and eaten. To combat this, I’ve compiled a list of local joints that serve up their own brand of fair food all year long. If you’re ever in need of a little deep-fried dangerous to tide you over until next year, check these places out. Deep-fried Twinkies at The Bayou (645 S. State Street, 801-961-8400, utahbayou.com): Perhaps no food abomination is as beloved as the deep-fried Twinkie. Like the discovery of plutonium, it’s one of those milestones that has made an indelible impact on the course of human history—for better or worse. Of course, The Bayou’s menu of Cajun-inspired classics is the main reason to visit this Salt Lake gastropub, but if you’re hankering a piece of fried gold straight from fair food history, they are happy to oblige. The deep-fried Twinkies

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Satisfy your fair food cravings year-round with these local restaurants.

Corn Dogs at Yummy’s Korean BBQ (2946 W. 4700 South, 801-769-6614, yummysutah.com): Like fried cheese, corn dogs are also ubiquitous along the Wasatch Front. However, I was recently introduced to a corn dog that makes the stuff they serve up at the state fair seem tame. The Korean corn dog ($4.50) at Yummy’s Korean BBQ shares the same basic DNA as traditional corn dogs, but it comes with a twist that must be tasted to be believed. The outside of this beast comes with a delightfully crisp finish thanks to the panko breadcrumbs that get applied before it hits the deep fryer. Once it’s done, it gets a liberal sprinkling of granulated sugar and then a hefty squirt of ketchup, mustard or both. It’s rare to encounter something like this outside fair park boundaries, but the fact that it’s been a Korean mainstay for the past ten years or so makes me think that we as human beings are going to be alright. Snow Cones at Bahama Buck’s ( 582 E. 12300 South, 385-275-448, bahamabucks. com): I know it’s just ice and heavily-colored corn syrup, but snow cones are one of the most refreshing delights on God’s green earth. Many parched fair patrons owe their survival to a well-prepared snow cone, and the team at Bahama Buck’s certainly kept me cool during the summer’s record-breaking heatwave. What sets this place apart is their ice shaving process— they opt for a finer grind, making a dessert that is a bit more like snow than ice chips. They’ve got a vast list of flavors, along with a decent selection of caffeinated options, and they don’t skimp on that syrupy goodness. Snow cone fans of all stripes will be able to find something to cherish at Bahama Buck’s. It may be a whole year before we can brave the trials of the fair food gods once more, but those after a quick fix before then need only check out these enthusiastic locals. CW

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Fair and Square

($7) here are prepared in the usual fashion, but the Bayou team goes the extra mile and hits them with a drizzle of raspberry sauce once they hit the plate. If you want the full fair experience, kick off your meal with the savory alligator cheesecake, made with real alligator sausage. Funnel Fries at Piper Down (1492 S. State Street, 801-468-1492, piperdownpub. com): Head just south of The Bayou, and you can indulge in another fair favorite—funnel cake. It’s not exactly the intertwined nest of golden-brown cake batter that you’d see at the fair, but I’d argue they’ve done this dessert one better. They’re called Funnel Fries ($7), and they’re everything you love about funnel cake just chopped up into bite-sized, fry-shaped snacks. For an extra three bucks, you can add a cup of vanilla ice cream, the preferred condiment for any type of dessert fries. Since Piper Down has some kind of special or local event scheduled every day of the week, there’s really no excuse not to indulge in some funnel fries every now and then. Cheese Sticks at Bricks Corner (1465 S. 700 East, 801-953-0636, brickscornerslc.com): Fried cheese is not that difficult to come by here in Utah—which is awesome. But if you really want to recreate the joy of biting through a crispy layer of batter into a slightly-too-hot ocean of gooey melted cheese, Bricks Corner is the place to be. Their appetizer called The Importance of the Fried Cheese ($10.50) is a meditation on the eternal desirability of deep-fried cheese. Like I said, it’s not hard to get mozzarella sticks if you’re in need of a quick fix, but if you want to bend your knee and worship at the altar of golden and gooey, you can’t really go anywhere else. The menu description itself touts “mozzarella cheese blocks”— not sticks, mind you—to let you know that cheese worship is something they take seriously. Come for the thick slabs of Detroitstyle deep dish, stay to make proper observance to the church of deep-fried cheese.

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24 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | CITY WEEKLY |

GRAPEFRUIT BACK PORCH Great Beer, No Compromise

30 E KENSINGTON AVE SLC, UT 84115

WWW.ROHABREWING.COM

onTAP 2 Row Brewing 6856 S. 300 West, Midvale 2RowBrewing.com On Tap: Feelin’ Hazy Bewilder Brewing 445 S. 400 West, SLC BewilderBrewing.com On Tap: Blueberry Pomegranate Sour Bohemian Brewery 94 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale BohemianBrewery.com Bonneville Brewery 1641 N. Main, Tooele BonnevilleBrewery.com On Tap: Peaches and Cream Ale

Moab Brewing 686 S. Main, Moab TheMoabBrewery.com On Tap: Bougie Johnny’s - Rose Ale Mountain West Cider 425 N. 400 West, SLC MountainWestCider.com On Tap: Ruby’s Gay Hard Cider Ogden River Brewing 358 Park Blvd, Ogden OgdenRiverBrewing.com On Tap: Injector Hazy IPA Policy Kings Brewery 223 N. 100 West, Cedar City PolicyKingsBrewery.com

Desert Edge Brewery 273 Trolley Square, SLC DesertEdgeBrewery.com On Tap: Fresh Brewed UPA

Proper Brewing 857 S. Main, SLC ProperBrewingCo.com On Tap: Lemon Shandy

Epic Brewing Co. 825 S. State, SLC EpicBrewing.com On Tap: IPA in the Coconut

Red Rock Brewing Multiple Locations RedRockBrewing.com On Tap: Baked Pastry Stout

Fisher Brewing Co. 320 W. 800 South, SLC FisherBeer.com On Tap: Red Ale

RoHa Brewing Project 30 Kensington Ave, SLC RoHaBrewing.com On Tap: Fuzzy Pucker Peach Sour

Grid City Beer Works 333 W. 2100 South, SLC GridCityBeerWorks.com On Tap: Extra Pale Ale Hopkins Brewing Co. 1048 E. 2100 South, SLC HopkinsBrewingCompany.com On Tap: Strawberry Sorghum Hoppers Grill and Brewing 890 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale HoppersBrewPub.com

Roosters Brewing Multiple Locations RoostersBrewingCo.com On Tap: Cosmic Autumn Rebellion SaltFire Brewing 2199 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake SaltFireBrewing.com On Tap: 10 Ton Truck West Coast IPA

Kiitos Brewing 608 W. 700 South, SLC KiitosBrewing.com

Salt Flats Brewing 2020 Industrial Circle, SLC SaltFlatsBeer.com On Tap: Bombshell Cherry Belgian Ale

Level Crossing Brewing Co. 2496 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake LevelCrossingBrewing.com On Tap: You-tah Coffee Uncommon Ale

Shades Brewing 154 W. Utopia Ave, South Salt Lake ShadesBrewing.beer On Tap: Blue Berry Blast Beer Slushie

A list of what local craft breweries and cider houses have on tap this week Silver Reef 4391 S. Enterprise Drive, St. George StGeorgeBev.com Squatters 147 W. Broadway, SLC Squatters.com Strap Tank Brewery Multiple Locations StrapTankBrewery.com Springville On Tap: PB Rider, Peanut Butter Stout Lehi On Tap: 2-Stroke, Vanilla Mocha Porter TF Brewing 936 S. 300 West, SLC TFBrewing.com On Tap: Northern Lights Terpene IPA Talisman Brewing Co. 1258 Gibson Ave, Ogden TalismanBrewingCo.com On Tap: Berry Salty: Raspberry Gose Toasted Barrel Brewery 412 W. 600 North, SLC ToastedBarrelBrewery.com Uinta Brewing 1722 S. Fremont Drive, SLC UintaBrewing.com On Tap: Was Angeles Craft Beer UTOG 2331 Grant Ave, Ogden UTOGBrewing.com On Tap: OG Juice Vernal Brewing 55 S. 500 East, Vernal VernalBrewing.com Wasatch 2110 S. Highland Drive, SLC WasatchBeers.com Zion Brewery 95 Zion Park Blvd, Springdale ZionBrewery.com Zolupez 205 W. 29th Street #2, Ogden Zolupez.com

Big flavors characterize the specialty offerings at Offset Bier Company

MIKE RIEDEL

TUESDAY TRIVIA! 7-9 PM LIVE JAZZ Thursdays 8-11 PM

1048 East 2100 South | (385) 528-3275 | HopkinsBrewingCompany.com

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Watch the Raptors Games on our Patio! @UTOGBrewingCo

UTOGBrewing.com 2331 Grant Ave, Ogden

Ogen’s Family-Friendly Brewery with the Largest Dog-Friendly Patio! Restaurant and Beer Store Now Open 7 Days a Week!

SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 25

ark City is hallowed ground when it comes to beer; it’s where Utah’s modern craft beer movement began in 1986, when Greg Schirf founded Wasatch Beers. Many breweries and brewpubs have opened up since then, including Park City Brewing Company, Shades of Pale Brewing Company (now Shades Brewing) and Park City Brewery (which is reorganizing in SLC). All have subsequently left Utah’s premier resort town for one reason or another, with many more in the planning stages finding it to be a challenging endeavor as well. It’s not difficult to open a brewery in Park City, as the city itself is very receptive to breweries, distilleries and wineries. Instead, affordable real estate seems to be the wrench in the gears that many would-be brewers face. Luckily, all the stars aligned recently, and Park City saw its first brewery open within the town’s borders since Shades of Pale debuted in 2010: Offset Bier Company. Patrick Borque is no stranger to Utah’s beer scene. He has been a beer bedouin in northern Utah, hanging his hat in breweries like Epic, Saltfire, Uinta and, most recently, Ogden River Brewing. Bourque always had a way to express his creativity, but never on his own terms. Now, with the launch Offset Bier Company he and partner Connor Brown have finally found a permanent home and a place to focus their vision.

OUTDOOR SEATING ON THE PATIO

BY MIKE RIEDEL comments@cityweekly.net @utahbeer

“Actually, we have no grand vision,” Brown corrects me. “No big goals or big aspirations. We want to make fresh modern beer for Park City.” The two partners seem to be in complete agreement in that regard. “We love all kinds of beer”, Borque adds, “but beer that tastes like beer is something we really would like to focus on.” Variety and rotation are also on the menu, as Offset Bier will be operating with one of the smaller brew houses in the state. “We only make 3-1/2 barrels at a time, around 105 gallons-ish,” Borque says. “We also have four 7-barrel fermenters, and a farm of smaller fermenters that allow us to experiment and have some fun.” With small batches comes quick turnover, and beer nerds love variety in brewery pubs. “Our small-batch philosophy grants us a lot of flexibility, and the ability to do some really cool things,” Brown explains. I quickly figured that out as I slowly made my way through Offset’s initial offerings. There were a lot of standard ales that I found to be clean and well-constructed, but I really felt drawn to the Wiesse Kölsch. I asked Borque what happens when I find an Offset beer that really speaks to my inner curmudgeon? “We will try to have a few beers on tap that will (hopefully) be available on a regular basis,” he says. As the chief beer nerd around here, I’m hoping the Wiesse Kölsch is one of those that finds a following at Offset Bier. The lighter cereal grain, along with a touch of honey flavor that builds on that great fruity Kölsch yeast, is just sublime. “Yes,” Borque chuckles, “one of our house beers will likely be the Weisse Kolsch. It’s super drinkable, and I think it’s one of the best beer-flavored beers out there.” Offset Bier is set up as a tavern, so you will find everything (for now) at draft strength, with cans and growlers to-go soon. There is no kitchen; like most brewery owners, they’d rather be making beer than making fries. Keep an eye on @offsetbier on Instagram for details on their daily food options (if any). And if you happen to be in Park City, you can find Patrick and Connor making and slinging Offset Bier at 1755 Bonanza Dr., Unit C in Park City. As always, cheers. CW

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Savor the City will also be hosting 4th West Oktoberfest this weekend on Sept. 25 - 26. Local distillers and brewers from Mountain West Hard Cider (mountainwestcider.com) and Red Rock Brewing (redrockbrewing.com) on hand to provide some autumnal spirits, and the event promises entertainment options for the whole family—just remember to snag one of the official Oktoberfest mugs if you’d like to imbibe. Both nights will feature live music, games and visits from local food trucks promising a great way to kick off the fall season with friends and loved ones of all ages. The event will take place at The Garten Cider House and Bar (417 N. 400 West) and tickets can be pre purchased at localfirst.org.

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If you’ve ever wanted to learn what makes Caputo’s Market (314 W. Broadway, caputos.com) tick, your time has come. On Sept. 23, Caputo’s will be offering a tour of their downtown market that features a visit into the market’s famous cheese cave. Along the way, attendees can enjoy tasty bites and libations from local vendors. It’s part of Local First Utah’s (localfirst.org) Savor the City event, designed to encourage locals to check out Downtown Salt Lake’s hospitality chops. The event takes place from 7:30 p.m to 9 p.m., and tickets can be purchased on Local First Utah’s website. Swing by for a peek at what makes Caputo’s a local foodie institution.

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South Salt Lake recently welcomed a new Thai restaurant called Coco Wok (1435 S. State Street, 801474-3322, cocowokslc.com). Coco Wok’s online presence features colorful representations of traditional Thai entrees like massaman curry, tom yum soup and Thai fried rice, but they’ve also got a few tantalizing tricks up their sleeve. I spotted Thairancini Rice Balls, which sound like a Thai take on the deep-fried rice balls that we know from Italian cuisine, along with avocado, mango and pineapple curry. Plus, their specials like roasted duck curry and sukiyaki sound amazing. I’m always happy to welcome a new Thai restaurant, and I’m looking forward to checking this place out. Quote of the Week: “What care I how time advances? I am drinking ale today.” –Edgar Allan Poe

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SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 27

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ust a few weeks ago, City Weekly published an update on how local venues were handling both a new wave of the pandemic, and new restrictions that are coming with it, on top of recovering from a year of potential financial ruin with spotty shows and no touring acts. Artists on tour face the same problems. While venues figure out which kinds of restrictions and mandates they want to enact, and work with artists who want things like vaccine mandates for their shows, artists are also doing the thorny work of figuring out how to tour and play responsibly—and even questioning if they should at all. Despite the still-unsolved questions around the extent to which vaccinated people can spread COVID, this summer every official channel gave the thumbs-up for gathering again. Artists kicked off tours, and locals came out from behind their live-stream screens. But that sense of security was fleeting, and now it’s left some folks frustrated at the lack of response about what to do now—now that ICU beds are full seemingly everywhere, while large public gatherings from concerts to college football stadiums are still running with that sense of security from early summer. So, after a year of doing everything right and staying out of the game, many artists are once again being faced with difficult choices to make all on their own. Local musician Emily Snow’s band Durian Durian hasn’t played a show since right before the pandemic hit in winter 2020, and just as they were beginning to get ready to return this fall, she now feels iffy about playing again. “I am feeling so weird saying yes or no to playing shows ... like, it’s obvious now that to keep things safe and therefore viable to continue, the best thing is to require masks plus vax [records] or negative tests? But there’s no consistency,” she laments. “Durian Durian was just asked to play indoors at Urban [Lounge] with masks but without vax requirement, and everyone is fine with it but I’m ... kind of not and I ... feel shitty for not wanting to do it. Like how fucking hard is it to just do the safest thing consistently that can make it so we can keep doing this?” Even some of those who are making the decision to play shows are uneasy about it still. Joey Mayes of the band Monsterhands relocated last year back to his home state of Tennessee, but journeyed back to his adopted musical home here in Utah on Sept. 17 for a Monsterhands tape release show at The Garage. Of the decision to come back and play in real life, he said he felt a little dicey. “I hate it. I’m super nervous about flying to Utah to play one show, and even more nervous about going to Gonerfest with my bandmates,” he says, citing a famed punk festival in Memphis. “One idiot can ruin all of it. I just hope the uncooperative get bounced.” Marqueza, a local experimental pop and R&B musician, is worried about the survivability of another shutdown for artists. “I just feel sad and frustrated especially for artists who are 100 percent gig workers,” they say. “I feel like there’s a general sense of brac-

COURTESY PHOTO

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28 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | CITY WEEKLY |

CONCERT PREVIEW

Lap Dog Performing at Garage on Beck ing for another winter of wishy-washy protections, unemployment benefits or anything for gig workers that will be consistent.” This also feels like a reason that even fans who have trepidation about whether shows are a good idea or not are going out anyways—to support those artists. Back when the official directive was a firm “stay in,” it was easy to stay in. But without that firm direction now, the choice becomes individualized. Still others are like Ryan Fedor, another local who’s been in several bands over the years and is currently playing in Dittocrush, who just released a dreamy new EP, The Devil is Working With Them. He’s one of the growing number of musicians resigned to the possibility of shows shutting down entirely again, and says, “It is what it is. It sucks, but better to shut everything down again than keep allowing these COVID mutations to develop and spread.” Another musician, Jacob Peterson, agrees, and also points out that even though many shows have returned in recent months, the atmosphere in the room isn’t the same as it was pre-COVID. “I’m just kind of coming to terms with the fact that it’s probably the smart thing to do,” Peterson says, of avoiding live performances. “Shows right now are a shell of what they normally are and I’m not a fan. There’s fewer in attendance at the ones I’ve been to, and there’s just kind of a fear (rightfully so) permeating the night stopping you from really getting into it.” There certainly is something to be said about the awkwardness of pulling a mask on and off to sip a beer at the 21+ venues, the tickle in the back of one’s mind as one considers how many other people are doing so at the same time, spreading a few particles between the sip, swallow and ah! While these different camps of musicians don’t form a consensus on whether shows are safe or not, one thing is for certain: Unfortunately, they’re on their own in figuring it out. CW

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Alanis Morissette

Alanis Morissette and Garbage at USANA Amphitheater

Queen of fiery snark and ‘90s alt-pop pioneer Alanis Morissette is finally celebrating the 25th anniversary of her breakout album, 1995’s Jagged Little Pill, with a postponed tour. Originally slated for 2020 and canceled for the obvious reasons, the tour was going to be rounded out by support from two other ’90s staples in Liz Phair and the band Garbage. Since that postponement, though, Phair has dropped off, but there will still be enough hits to go around between the two acts that remain. Morissette will be bringing out the big guns on this tour—playing the songs that made her famous, like the always thrillingly distressing “Ironic” and the sardonic hits like “You Oughta Know” and “Hand in My Pocket.” For their part, Garbage will also surely bring some tracks from their own 1995 self-titled debut, like the sultry “Stupid Girl” and “Only Happy When It Rains,” modern pop rock tracks that served as an early signpost for what pop would sound like going into the millennium—gleaming edgily with futurism and grimy with industrial aesthetics alike. They’ll both be at the USANA Amphitheater on Thursday, Sept. 23. The show is all ages, starts at 7 p.m., and tickets are available for $54 - $1,180. Visit saltlakeamphitheater.com for tickets and more info.

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| CITYWEEKLY.NET |

30 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | CITY WEEKLY |

MUSIC PICKS

The Doobie Brothers 50th Anniversary Tour

Despite these strange times, time marches on, and anniversaries come—which calls for celebration. Another anniversary tour is making its way to the USANA Amphitheater, this time on Wednesday Sept. 29, and it’s a big one. The Doobie Brothers will be inviting all to come join them in celebrating the big 5-0 of the band’s existence. It’s kind of wild to consider that the incredibly catchy, jangly signature of songs like “Listen to the Music” have been filtering into ears all over the world for the last 50 years, since its release on Toulouse Street in 1972. Their funk- and psychedelic-infused guitar-driven music would go on to encapsulate a golden, glittering image of what rock-as-it-became pop sounded like in the 1970s, and listening takes you right back to that moment, with all its love for funk and soul. They’ll find support in their one-time vocalist Michael McDonald, who put sensual hits like “I Keep Forgettin’ (Every Time You’re Near)” and “Stop, Look, Listen (To Your Heart)” into the world, in the early ’80s and in the early millennium respectively (and impressively). See them when they stop in on the 50th Anniversary Tour. The all-ages show starts at 7 p.m., and tickets are available for $39 - $1,385. Visit saltlakeamphitheater.com for more info and tickets.

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Modest Mouse Visits Sandy Amp

The first song in Modest Mouse’s recently released 2021 album The Golden Casket is called “Fuck Your Acid Trip,” a seemingly bad-trip inspired track that proves right off the bat that the band hasn’t lost their wacky edge. Less rooted in the kind of indie rock the band helped to establish as a signature sound of 2000s alt, The Golden Casket saw a bit more experimentation from the band, and over a long period of time for them, too. This latest took six years to complete, but no one would say that anyone has forgotten about the band or lost anticipation. Thanks to their status as the inventive indie stalwarts they are, a new album even after six years just feels like nature moving through the seasons—sometimes fall arrives a little late, but it always comes. Modest Mouse boasts scores of loyal fans, who are no doubt excited to see them out on tour again with this brand-new material. They’ll find an opener in the cacophonous indie pop band Empath, the kind of band that seem young enough to assume that they probably grew up listening to the bit-older Modest Mouse—and if they did, it’s evident in their lively, bubbling-up-and-over style. The all-ages show comes to the Sandy Amphitheater on Monday, September 27 at 7 p.m., and tickets are available for $39.50 - $59.50. Visit sandyamp.com for tickets and info.

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Horse Meat Disco Is Back

An ode to a London dance party tradition founded in the early aughts, Horse Meat Disco is a 2000s-born queer revelry that draws on disco while also warping what disco can be—and after finding fame in its home country, it’s taken off and endured around the world. That said, it’s alive and well in Salt Lake City. Thanks to a group of local dance-music enthusiasts including New City Movement and Nightfreq, our local Horse Meat Disco is back for the first time in 2021. Past HMD events have included all the trappings of disco, from the music to the venue and of course to the attendees—and that means glitter and disco balls. The glitzy genre is in good hands with help from some of SLC’s most reliable DJs, Jesse Walker and Matthew Fit, with appearances from the disco-focused tune spinners Interstate Disco and Disco With The Devil. Local party venue The Block will host, which means that this good-time hub will groove until the early hours—because the show starts at 9 p.m. and goes until 5 a.m. The boogie goes down on Saturday, Sept. 25. Visit @nightfreq on Instagram for more info.

Andy Shauf and Wild Pink at The Urban Lounge

Get folded into another person’s mindscape on Thursday, Sept. 23 by heading out to see Andy Shauf, supported by Wild Pink. Shauf will be touring with his 2020 baby in tow, The Neon Skyline, a beautifully-composed ode to a rambling night out with friends that turns vividly nostalgic, and which is peppered with the kind of perfectly clipped and garnished vignettes that Shauf has been honing for years. His storytelling is immersive just listening, but Shauf has a way of stilling a crowd with his steady gaze that’s worth seeing. He’ll find good company in the similarly style-minded Wild Pink, who will be touring with their 2021 album A Billion Little Lights in tow. For those who love War on Drugs with a little less capital “A” on the Americana, Wild Pink is the answer. This album, which might be called a breakout, is subtle in a way that could make it a pass-over, but its melodies gently grab your hand and pull you in—unexpected, the way it is when you realize someone you never thought about holding hands with holds your hand, and it’s pleasant and warm. That’s because there’s an emotive current running through it, one maybe tuned up by loving production that gives each part its spot of glimmering light. This show is 21+, starts at 7 p.m. and is $22. Visit theurbanloungeslc.com for tickets and more info.

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LIBRA (Sept. 23-Oct. 22) Happy Birthday sometime soon, Libra! As gifts, I have collected six useful mini-oracles for you to meditate on during the rest of 2021. They’re all authored by Libran aphorist Yahia Lababidi. 1. Hope is more patient than despair and so outlasts it. 2. Miracles are proud creatures; they will not reveal themselves to those who do not believe. 3. A good listener is one who helps us overhear ourselves. 4. One definition of success might be refining our appetites, while deepening our hunger. 5. With enigmatic clarity, life gives us a different answer each time we ask her the TAURUS (April 20-May 20) It’s a good time to ruminate about things you wish could be same question. 6. Temptation: seeds we are forbidden to water, part of your life but aren’t. You will be wise to develop a more that are showered with rain. conscious relationship with wistful fantasies about impossible dreams. Here’s one reason why this is true: You might realize SCORPIO (Oct. 23-Nov. 21) that some seemingly impossible dreams aren’t so impossible. Pioneering psychologist Carl Jung wrote, “I must also have a To get in the mood for this fun exercise, meditate on a sample dark side if I am to be whole.” But it’s important to add that reverie: “I wish I could spend a whole day discovering new some dark sides tend to be destructive and demoralizing, while music to love. I wish I owned a horse and a boat and a vintage other dark sides are fertile and interesting. Most of us have a brown-and-orange-striped bohemian cardigan sweater from share of each. My reading of the planetary omens suggests that the 1970s. I wish I knew the names of all the flowers. I wish I felt you Scorpios now have extra power to upgrade your relationship more at ease about revealing my hidden beauty. I wish I could with the fertile and interesting aspects of your dark side. I hope you will take advantage! You have a ripe opportunity to deepen figure out how to eliminate unnecessary stress from my life.” and expand your wholeness. GEMINI (May 21-June 20) Poet, essayist and translator Anne Carson calls her husband SAGITTARIUS (Nov. 22-Dec. 21) Robert Currie the “Randomizer.” His role in her life as a cre- Sagittarian poet Rainer Maria Rilke was a complicated person ative artist is to make quirky recommendations that help her with many mysterious emotions and convoluted thoughts. And avoid being too predictable. He sends her off in directions she yet, he once wrote that life occasionally brought him “boundless wouldn’t have imagined by herself. Here’s an example: At one simplicity and joy.” I find it amazing he could ever welcome such point in her career, Carson confessed she was bored with her a state. Kudos to him! How about you, dear Sagittarius? Are writing. The Randomizer suggested, “Let’s put dancers into it.” you capable of recognizing when boundless simplicity and joy In response, she repurposed the sonnets she had been working are hovering in your vicinity, ready for you to seize them? If so, be on into a live theatrical performance featuring many dancers. I extra alert in the next two weeks. I expect there’ll be a visitation think you would benefit from having a Randomizer in your life or two. Maybe even three or four. during the coming weeks. Know anyone who could serve? If not, CAPRICORN (Dec. 22-Jan. 19) look for one. Or be your own Randomizer. Baltasar Gracián was not a 21st-century New Age self-help teacher. He was a 17th-century Jesuit philosopher born under CANCER (June 21-July 22) If you so desired, you could travel to Munich, Germany, and the sign of serious, diligent Capricorn. I hope you will be extra eat beer-flavored ice cream. Or you could go to Rehoboth, receptive to his advice in the coming weeks. He wrote, “Know your Delaware, and get bacon-flavored ice cream. If you were in key qualities, your outstanding gifts. Cultivate them. Redouble Taiwan, you could enjoy pineapple shrimp ice cream, and if their use.” Among the key qualities he gave as examples were you were in London, you could sample haggis-flavored ice disciplined discernment and resilient courage. I bring his thoughts cream, made from sheep innards. But my advice right now is to your attention because the coming weeks will be a rousing time to stick with old reliables like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry to heed his counsel. It’s time for you to identify and celebrate and ice cream—which are still delicious even if they’re not exotic. give abundant expression to your key qualities. During the coming weeks, you’re most likely to thrive on trustAQUARIUS (Jan. 20-Feb. 18) worthy standbys and experiences you know and trust. After studying the genes that create feathers in birds, scientists found that humans have all the necessary genes to grow feathLEO (July 23-Aug. 22) Celebrated novelist Jane Austen (1775–1817) wrote, ers (I read about it in National Geographic magazine). So why “Sometimes I have kept my feelings to myself, because I could don’t we grow feathers, then? Well, it’s complicated. Basically, find no language to describe them in.” People who aren’t as the feather-making genes are not fully activated. Who knows? articulate as Austen experience that problem even more often Maybe someday, there’ll be technology that enables us to switch than she did. But the good news, Leo, is that in the coming on those genes and sprout plumage. I bet my Aquarian friend weeks, you’ll be extra skillful at expressing your feelings and Jessie, whose body has 30 tattoos and 17 piercings, would thoughts—even those that in the past have been difficult to put take advantage. In the coming weeks, it might be fun for you to into words. I invite you to take maximum advantage of this grace imagine having bird-like qualities. You’re entering a high-flying phase—a time for ascension, expansion, soaring and seeing the period. Communicate with hearty poise and gleeful abandon. big picture from lofty vantage points. VIRGO (Aug. 23-Sept. 22) “When you know what’s important, it’s a lot easier to ignore PISCES (Feb. 19-March 20) what’s not,” writes author and life coach Marie Forleo. Let’s make Are there sensual and erotic acts you’ve never tried and are curiher thought the basis of your work and play in the coming weeks. ous about? Are there experimental approaches on the frontier Get clear on what is of supreme value to you, which influences bring of your desires that would be intriguing to consider? Might out the best in you and which people make it easy for you to be there be lusty experiences you’ve barely imagined or don’t know yourself. Then compose a second list of trivial situations that are about—but that could be fun to play with? According to my of minor interest, influences that make you feel numb and people analysis of the astrological omens, the coming weeks will be a who don’t fully appreciate you. Next, Virgo, formulate long-term favorable time to explore such possibilities. Be safe and pruplans to phase out the things in the second list as you emphasize dent, of course. Don’t be irresponsible or careless. But also be willing to expand your notions of your sexuality. your involvement in the pleasures named in the first list. ARIES (March 21-April 19) Aries author Steve Maraboli says, “The best way to love someone is not to change them, but instead, help them reveal the greatest version of themselves.” If that strategy appeals to you, the next eight weeks will be an excellent time to put it to maximum use. You’re entering a phase when you can have an especially beneficial effect on people you care for. You’ll be at peak power to help them unleash dormant potentials and access untapped resources.

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SEPTEMBER SHOWS

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BY SCOTT RENSHAW scottr@cityweekly.net @scottrenshaw

uring the third act of The Starling, therapist-turnedveterinarian Dr. Larry Fine (Kevin Kline) speaks with Lilly Maynard, who has become his de facto patient, about some of the unique characteristics of the titular bird, a pair of which have nested in her yard and taken to dive-bombing her. They work as a pair, Larry tells her, co-parenting their young in ways most birds don’t, sharing responsibilities; they’re not meant to be alone, he says. To which Lilly—who is struggling to patch up her relationship with her husband, Jack (Chris O’Dowd)—responds, “Real subtle stuff, Larry.” The line is meant to be a moment for a self-aware chuckle, as we nod along at how the starling serves as a stand-in for all of the struggles Lilly is facing in her life. But there’s not really an easy way to be self-deprecating about how you’re doing an annoying thing, while also erasing the fact that you’re doing an annoying thing. As earnestly as The Starling occasionally attempts to address hard issues like grief, mental health and fraying marital bonds, it’s still hamstrung by the way Matt Harris’s script feels committed to making absolutely everything revolve around that damn bird. There is a heartbreaking reality at the core of Lilly and Jack’s estrangement: the death from SIDS of their infant daughter, Katie, a year earlier. While Lilly attempts to soldier on through her days as a grocery store assistant manager, Jack struggles to make progress at an in-patient men-

36 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

CINEMA

Melissa McCarthy in The Starling

NETFLIX

The Starling gets too tangled up in its symbolism to focus on its human story.

writer might seek out a twist that would allow his story to stand out. It’s easy to envision a version of this narrative that’s simply about two people at polar extremes of dealing with the same tragedy, and how hard it could be for them to give each other what they respectively need. Maybe it feels a little familiar, and maybe it’s a harder sell than something that finds bits of whimsy in the actions of a fantastical, nigh-anthropomorphic bird. But it’s harder to feel the pain when it feels like all we’re doing is reading the Cliff Notes, explaining to us what the starling represents in each successive chapter. CW

THE STARLING

BB Melissa McCarthy Chris O’Dowd Kevin Kline Rated PG-13 Available Sept. 24 via Netflix

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tal health facility after a breakdown, with Lilly’s weekly visits seeming more obligatory than mutually helpful. And when Lilly is back at home, trying to maintain their large property on her own, there’s that territorial little winged menace to contend with. Structurally, The Starling faces complications in its goal of giving equal time to both grieving parents. There are attempts to sneak a little comic relief into Jack’s story, whether through supporting characters like Loretta Devine’s highstrung patient, or Jack’s frustrated reactions to his deadpan therapist, but ultimately his story is much more serious, and by necessity more isolated. O’Dowd offers an effective performance when he has to convey Jack’s mindset at its most fragile, but his half of the film can’t provide quite the spark that comes from McCarthy’s scenes with Kline, as the two versatile actors play off one another both comedically and dramatically. A frustrated McCarthy is almost always an entertaining McCarthy, and she gets the showy scenes as her bottled-up emotions finally begin to reach a boiling point. The real impediment to The Starling, though, is the starling, which is at the forefront right from the opening credits, when director Theodore Melfi (who worked with McCarthy on St. Vincent) focuses on a CGI bird attempting to survive a threat to its very life while bringing nesting materials to its mate (elbow nudge). When Lilly attempts to care for a garden in her yard, she fumes at the birds pecking away at her produce (she is failing at her attempts to nurture something, nudge nudge). When she considers killing the starling by going directly to the nest, she’s stopped short by seeing its newborn chicks (nudge-itynudge-nudge). Words are spoken about how there are some things in nature that are just part of the natural order, and beyond our control (please consider putting on rib pads to protect yourself from the nudging). There’s symbolism, and then there’s a symbol becoming so oppressive that it threatens to suffocate everything else. The Starling is hardly the first film to deal with grief-stricken parents at a crossroads, and it’s understandable that a

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The Only Ballot That Matters!

SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 | 37

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PARTS UNKNOWN

BY DAVID LEVINSON WILK

ACROSS

1. Exaggerates on stage 2. Mathematician Pascal 3. Firstborn 4. Hideaway 5. Gymnast Korbut 6. Only United Nations member whose name starts with “O” 7. Source of machismo, perhaps 8. Home of Northern Illinois University 9. Reply to “You couldn’t have!” 10. “La ____ Más Fina” (Corona slogan) 11. Approx. takeoff hour

Fall Checkup

12. Chess piece between dame and fou 13. “Boyz N the Hood” protagonist 18. Trio in elem. school 21. “Oy ____!” 24. Suffix with psych 25. Burrowing mammal 26. “Today” rival, familiarly 28. The Red Baron, to Snoopy 29. “The Lord of the Rings” baddie 30. Univ. senior’s test 31. Group led by Master Splinter, initially 32. Martini’s lemon twist, e.g. 34. Bloom or balloon 35. Julia of “The Addams Family” 36. What many students look forward to: Abbr. 37. Camcorder button 38. Towing org. 39. Classified ad shorthand for “seeking” 40. “Sleepless in Seattle” studio 42. ____-Dazs 43. Unlike this answer, directionally 44. The 1% in 1% milk 45. “Friends” friend 46. Killjoy

47. Beachgoer’s acquisition 50. “Star Trek” spinoff, to fans 51. Bookmarked item 52. Sch. with many cadets 53. Babe in the woods 54. Mario ____ (video game) 55. ____ Jima 56. No. on a business card 57. ‘60s antiwar grp.

Last week’s answers

No math is involved. The grid has numbers, but nothing has to add up to anything else. Solve the puzzle with reasoning and logic. Solving time is typically 10 to 30 minutes, depending on your skill and experience.

DOWN

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Complete the grid so that each row, column, diagonal and 3x3 square contain all of the numbers 1 to 9.

1. “Euphoria” channel 4. Weaving machine 8. Reroute 14. 100% 15. ____ mater 16. One with paper cuts? 17. “Now Is the Month of Maying,” for one 19. Kind of pool or car 20. Mountain range where the Donner ____y was snowbound the winter of 1846-47 22. Cold War initials 23. Congers, e.g. 24. “!!!” 27. Stroke 28. Given its location, nickname lent to the De____ment of State 32. Don Diego de la Vega’s secret identity 33. Kunis of “Black Swan” 34. It’s home to the ____henon 36. Napoleon Bona____e’s homeland 39. 401(k) alternatives 40. Milk-Bone biscuit, e.g. 41. Country that eliminated a____heid in the early ‘90s 45. Law enforcement grps. 48. Nocturnal raptor 49. Berry in juice blends 50. The old you? 51. Anthony Bourdain travel series ... and this puzzle’s theme 55. “We’ve been approved!” 58. Airport monitor 59. Some doorstops 60. “The Kite Runner” boy 61. Arthur of “The Golden Girls” 62. Mary-Kate, Ashley and Elizabeth 63. Simple boat 64. Suffix for east, west, north or south

SUDOKU X

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38 | SEPTEMBER 23, 2021

CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Before winter sets in, it’s good to prevent maintenance issues. Unless you have mad skills, it might be best to call professionals to come and do a health and maintenance checkup at your home. But no matter how you approach it, a good to-do list includes: n Check your appliances. Vacuum the refrigerator fan and coils at the bottom or back of the unit to avoid overheating and save on electricity. n Check hoses on the dishwasher and washer/dryer once a year for any bulges, cracks or leaks. n Change furnace filters every 3 months, especially now that our air is so smoky from West Coast fires. n Check to see if you have surge protectors connected to your electrical devices to avoid overheating and fires. Replace frayed or worn cords on all electrical appliances. n Check your roof for loose shingles, worn flashing and damaged or leaking gutters. n If your water heater is making noises or you have low water pressure, you may have issues. If there is water evident on the floor underneath it, you need a new one! n Has landscaping and dirt creeped too close to your foundation? Keep at least two feet of space between your home’s foundation and landscaping. You don’t want water coming into your basement if we get a surprise deluge from Mother Nature. Check that your gutter downspouts are pointed away from your foundation, and remember to clean out your gutters. We recently installed a new security system at our home. We added two small wallet-size water-detection alarms that we put near our water heater and near the washer/dryer. Twice this summer the alarms went off, and we were notified on our phone. Thank goodness, because if we hadn’t been alerted, our basement would have flooded due to a broken water softener. Smoke, water and CO2 alarms are all available at Lowe’s or other home improvement stores. Also, quit throwing money away. Try these simple tips to save on utility bills this winter: n When you clean your fridge and remove the dust bunnies, set the temperature so that it’s cold enough to store food but not so low you waste energy. n Use the right size burner on your stove for the pan you’re working with. It saves heat and saves you money. n Only run your dishwasher when it’s full. It also saves water to use a full dishwasher rather than hand wash each dish. n Make sure when you wash clothes you set the machine for the appropriate load size and clean your dryer vent often so it will run more efficiently. Washing on cold saves money and using dryer balls helps to reduce drying time. n Update your thermostat so you can control your temps via an app. Nest-like thermostats have helped improve our wise use of our heating and cooling systems. n Update your light fixtures to LED bulbs. n Update appliances if you can afford to and—with the interruption of supply and shipping chains—if you can find them! I made a checklist that I go over every quarter for me to check around my home, inside and out. It helps me avoid potential surprises and disasters at our home base, our nest. n Content is prepared expressly for Community and is not endorsed by City Weekly staff.

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the New York Post in late August. But when the big day arrived, the couple realized not everyone had shown up. So Simmons, a small-business owner, sent invoices for $120 per person to all the no-shows. “This amount is what you owe us for paying for your seat(s) in advance. You can pay via Zelle or PayPal.” Simmons said he and his wife were hurt that people didn’t show up: “I took that personally.” No word on whether they’ve collected on any of the invoices. Compelling Explanation On Aug. 20, officers in St. Augustine Beach, Florida, responded to a call that a woman on the beach was behaving erratically and needed CPR, The Smoking Gun reported. But when first responders tried to escort her to an ambulance, Kailani Jo Kroll, 39, began running back and forth on the street. Because she hadn’t committed a crime, officers and rescue workers started to pack up to leave, and that’s when Kroll jumped into the cab of a firetruck and tried to drive away. Kroll was pulled from the truck and later told police, “I’m sorry for trying to take the truck, I lost my marbles.” When asked if she was under the influence of anything, she told them she had taken the “elixir of life.” Kroll was charged with grand theft auto and resisting law enforcement officers. Great Art Remember the self-shredding Banksy artwork that sold for $1.4 million in October 2018? Originally called “Girl With Balloon,” the piece, now known as “Love Is in the Bin,” will be up for auction again in October, the Associated Press reported, and is expected to fetch between $5 million and $9 million. Alex Branczik, chairman of modern and contemporary art at Sotheby’s, calls the piece “the ultimate Banksy artwork and a true icon of recent art history.” Before the auction, the piece will be on display in London, Hong Kong, Taipei and New York. Oops NBC News New York reported on Sept. 10 that a subway power outage on Aug. 29, which resulted in more than 80 trains coming to a stop, was caused by someone just pressing a power switch that should have had a protective cover. The governor’s office said things deteriorated after the button was pushed, citing five trains in the Bronx that got stranded between stations, where 300 people had to be helped off the trains. “New Yorkers deserve absolute confidence in a fully functioning subway system, and it is our job to restore that confidence,” said Gov. Kathy Hochul. Awesome! n Financial advice website FinanceBuzz is offering the gig of a lifetime for horror movie fans: They want to pay someone $1,300 to watch 13 classics and monitor their heartbeat while doing so, with the goal of comparing the fear factors of films with different budgets. United Press International reported that the chosen candidate will get a FitBit to monitor their heartbeat and $50 to cover movie rental costs. Applications are open through Sept. 26, and a winner will be selected on Oct. 1. n In Medford, New Jersey, 14-year-old Sammy Salvano had a busy summer. The teenager, who hopes to be an engineer, fashioned a prosthetic hand for his friend, Ewan Kirby, who is missing multiple fingers on one hand, United Press International reported. Salvano used a 3D printer to create the prosthetic, which Kirby said allowed him to pick up his mother’s car keys for the first time. Send your weird news items to WeirdNewsTips@amuniversal.com.

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That’s One Way To Do It When Hurricane Ida swept through New York, the heavy rain and flooding did an estimated $50 million in damage. But in the Big Apple, there’s a silver lining: The storm may have cleared out a significant portion of the rat population that lived in the sewers and subway system. Experts believe hundreds of thousands of rats may have died as sewer systems were overwhelmed and dumped into local bays and estuaries, where the rodents later washed up on beaches. Bobby Corrigan, longtime pest control expert, told Gothamist, “I can’t imagine they would’ve survived.” Conversely, those that did weather the storm appear to be seeking shelter on higher ground, as exterminators report a spike in complaints. Creepy As Hurricane Ida made its way up the East Coast and Louisiana started to clean up, a Covington Domino’s Pizza store tossed some of its leftover dough into a dumpster out back, nola.com reported. Temperatures in the area climbed into the 90s, and the dough climbed ... out of the waste container. Nicole Amstutz, who lives nearby, started documenting the wayward dough blob on Sept. 1, posting updates on Facebook. The dough spilled over onto the pavement, but Amstutz reported on Sept. 4 that it had fallen and boxes were placed on top of it. The general manager of the Domino’s store did not respond to an interview request. Long Live the King Elvis has left ... the barber shop. Elvis Presley’s personal barber, Homer Gilleland, scooped up snippings of the King’s hair over multiple haircuts and kept the baseball-sized ball of tresses in a plastic bag, which he then gifted to Thomas Morgan, a friend of both men. United Press International reported on Sept. 8 that the hair, now in a sealed jar and backed up by “extensive documentation,” sold at auction for $72,500. A Los Angeles auction house offered the hair alongside one of Presley’s concert jumpsuits and other items. The (Literal) Passing Parade At midnight on Sept. 9, North Korea held a military parade in the capital, Pyongyang, to celebrate the country’s 73rd anniversary, CNN reported. Kim Jong Un appeared on a platform and waved, but reportedly did not speak. Perhaps the late hour was thought to be more dramatic than a daytime spectacle, especially for the dropping of paratroopers from military planes and firing of flares. Observers noted that Kim appeared to have lost a significant amount of weight. Suspicions Confirmed Oddity Central reported on Sept. 3 that Li Zhanying of Henan, China, is known in her community for having gone more than 40 years without sleeping at all. Her husband and neighbors confirmed her claims, saying that she stayed up all night to do chores and didn’t ever nap. But recently, Li visited a Beijing medical center, where doctors used sensors to monitor her and discovered that Li does sleep—with her eyes open and while talking to her husband. Doctors called it “sleep when awake,” which is similar to sleepwalking. They said Li sometimes had “slow eyeballs and hollow eyes,” indicating that she was resting. Rude Doug Simmons, 44, and Debra McGee, 43, of Chicago, planned a destination wedding in Jamaica, to which they invited 109 guests. “Four times we asked, ‘Are you available to come, can you make it?’ and they kept saying yes,” Simmons explained to

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