TheArrivalof Spring…

March brings longer days, and, before the end of the month, warmer temperatures. This is the month when the natural world around us begins to awaken from its winter sleep. Young plants push through the cold earth in search of the warming rays of spring sunshine. In the kitchen we crave dishes flavoured with the first of the fresh herbs, parsley and chives whilst the wild garlic growing in abundance now in the woods around our village provides the perfect flavouring for the new season’s lamb and fish dishes.

But though the sun is stronger now, and the vernal equinox means the days are longer than the nights, March is a month of steps forward into summer - and then backwards again as winter makes a brief return. The one thing you can be sure about March weather here in England is that there are no guarantees; one day will bring warm bright sunshine and the next may bring torrential rain, high winds and perhaps even a covering of fresh now. Nonetheless, winter is now on the retreat, the spring lambs are out in the fields and around our house we can see the first greens hoots of the summer crops. And in the kitchen too, there is a sense of optimism and expectation. It’s the time for lighter dishes to grace our tables, and in our family fish is a particular favourite, whether from the abundance harvest from around the coast or from our rivers, lakes and streams

In the north of the country, West Yorkshire’s famous forced rhubarb is ready to harvest, its stalks a delicate pale pink following a winter spent undercover, starved of sunlight and brought to its delicious best by traditional candlelight. Cooked in tarts and crumbles, or simply stewed with ginger and/or orange, it provides the perfect ending to a spring meal.

● Small handful of wild garlic

● 350g shelled peas (frozen are fine)

● 2 tablespoons olive oil

● 8 spring onions, sliced

● 225g potatoes, peeled and diced

● 600ml vegetable or chicken stock

● Small handful of fresh mint leaves

● Salt and black pepper

● Double cream to finish (optional)

● Heat the oil in a large saucepan and saute the onions until soft but not coloured. Add the potatoes and stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Add the peas.

● Roughly chop the wild garlic and mint leaves and add to the pan, simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly then puree. Return to the pan and reheat gently.

● Season to taste and ladle into bowls. Serve hot and, if liked, topped with a swirl of double cream and a few peas or sprinkle of wild garlic leaves.

Forthepastry

● 125g butter, cubed plus extra for greasing

● 250g plain flour

● 50g sugar

● Pinch of salt

● 1 medium egg, beaten

Forthefilling

● 500g rhubarb, cut into 15cm lengths

● 150ml double cream

● 250ml milk

● 1 teaspoon cornflour

● ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

● 2 medium eggs

● 125g sugar

●

● Preheat the oven to 200C. Make the pastry by rubbing together the butter and flour. Add 50g of the sugar, the salt and the beaten egg. Bring the mixture together with a knife to form a dough.

● Grease a 20cm x 28cm loose bottom tart tin. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface, then line the tin and trim. Chill in the fridge for an hour.

● Take the tin out of the fridge. Lay a sheet of baking parchment over the pastry, fill the tin with baking beans and bake for 0 minus. Remove the paper and beans the bake for a further 5 mins at 180C.

● For the filling: in a bowl combine the double cream, milk, cornflour, vanilla extract and the remaining eggs and sugar.

● Place the rhubarb pieces in the tin in rows and pour over the mixture.

Ifwellmanaged,nothingismorebeautifulthanthekitchen-garden;theearliest blossomscomethere:weshallinvainseekforfloweringshrubsinMarch,andearly inApril,toequalthepeaches,nectarines,apricotsandplums;lateinApril,weshall findnothingtoequalthepearandthecherry;and,inMay,thedwarf,orespalier, apple-trees,arejustsomanyimmensegarlandsofcarnations. Thewalksare unshaded:theyarenotgreasyorcoveredwithmoss,inthespringoftheyear,like thoseinshrubberies:towatchtheprogressofthecropsisbynomeansunentertaining toanyrationalcreature;andthekitchen-gardengivesyouallthislongbeforethe ornamentalpartofthegardenaffordsyouanythingworthlookingat. ThereforeI seenoreasonforplacingthekitchen-gardeninsomeout-of-the-wayplace,ata distancefromthemansionhouse,asifitwereamerenecessaryevil,andunworthyof beingviewedbytheowner. Inthetimeoffruiting,whereshallwefindanything muchmorebeautifultobeholdthanatreeloadedwithcherries,peaches,orapricots, butparticularlythetwolatter?