Tripping the Yacht Fantastic

ur helicopter hovered, it seemed, a bare 100 feet above the glittering cerulean waters of the Caribbean, dotted with the San Blas islands, off the coast of Panama. This was our first day out of port (Cartagena), on an extraordinary 10-day journey (which would terminate in Lima), with Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours, cruising on the uncompromisingly luxurious explorer yacht, Eclipse. I had eagerly signed up for one of the helicopter rides the ship had scheduled today. Equipped with not one, but twin, state-of-art (James Bond-looking, clad in glistening black) helicopters, the Eclipse has a crackerjack aircrew on board; they were busy all day, as groups of six passengers eagerly hopped into the super-quiet cabin. (Bose headsets also help to suppress extraneous noise, all the better to hear the pilot describe all that we were seeing below.) There are more than 350 islands in this archipelago, some 50 of them inhabited by the Guna people. There are also so many things to see below in the jade and azure undulating waters—a few surprising shipwrecks, schools of fish on the hunt for smaller prey, and the occasional lone fisherman plying his luck from a canoe. This helicopter ride will stay with me forever—a rare glimpse into the sapphire sea from above; this singular journey was so very typical of the care and thought that Scenic puts into all its cruise itineraries and excursions. From takeoff to landing back on the deck of the Eclipse, it was a thrill.

Yes, it’s wonderful to be wowed, but it’s even better to be educated. Ports of call in between Cartagena and Lima included a day’s fascinating transit through the Panama Canal; we had so many highly credentialed experts on board as part of the Eclipse’s Discovery Team, it was hard to decide where to start—with the Canal historian, the biologist, one of the two geologists, the anthropologist, the ornithologist, the naturalist, and more. Our other ports of call included a magical morning in the Utria National Natural Park (northern Colombia), enjoying the wildlife, the spectacular flora, and the peaceful mangroves; a thrilling few hours off the coast of southern Peru, around Isla Guañape, cruising in Zodiacs, savouring playful encounters with spirited South American sea lions and tuxedoed Humboldt penguins; an evening in Salaverry, marvelling at the majestic tricks and turns of the famous Paso horses and their skillful gauchos; and in stark contrast to the rainforests and jungles, a day in Trujillo, Peru’s second-largest city, exploring history and culture.

While I had sailed with Scenic previously (a delightful river cruise in France), this was a rare opportunity to experience the company’s recently christened (Dame Helen Mirren is the vessel’s godmother), Eclipse, billed as the world’s first discovery yacht, and worthy, indeed, of that epithet. My voyage took place during late October/early November, and the Halloween gala and specialty party feast the chefs organized was yet another fab shindig that will remain indelibly etched in my brain: The day we crossed the equator, we had a costume party to celebrate the loss of our equatorial virginity. Sailors who have never crossed the equator are Slimy Pollywogs, but after the crossing, become Trusty Shellbacks, sons and daughters of Neptune. (I even have a floridly calligraphed certificate to prove my seaworthiness!)

If a helicopter ride captivates your fancy, you’ll also be interested in taking a ride on the ship’s submersive, or baby submarine. It cannot be launched at all ports (maritime laws for each region, local underwater ecology, the weather and the tides dictate this), but if you get a chance to do it—you must. The submarine can go down to 1,000 feet and it accommodates six people. With glass vistas all around and swivel seats, you can have figurative eyes in the back of your head.

Even if you do not have the opportunity to go underwater, there is so much to do on board—and a spa/yoga/Pilates/gym area, with 6,000 serene square feet. You’ll be hard-pressed, frankly, to leave your comfy veranda suite (Eclipse can accommodate 228 guests, and for polar expeditions, 200), as they are among the most elegantly decorated and designed I’ve ever stayed in at sea—safety, sustainability, discovery and luxury are all married into the design.

The nearly one dozen restaurants on board will tickle your palate, particularly Lumère, the contemporary French restaurant, and Koko’s, a marvel of an Asian-fusion eatery and sake bar, with a private teppanyaki open-grill restaurant tucked into a secluded area. It is also worth noting that Eclipse boasts a 1:1 guest:crew ratio, so you’ll experience cosseting service at the highest level. And, best of all, Eclipse cruises are all-inclusive, save for spa treatments—and those helicopter and submarine outings.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Scenic Senses Spa Relaxation Room; Scenic Lounge with 110 Bottles of Whisky; Chef’s Table Presentation; Guna Indigenous Woman in Panama.

Contents

What You Need to know When Cruising with Scenic Cruises

What does it take to get on board?

Scenic requires all guests to have received the required dose(s) of an approved Covid-19 vaccine. Guests are also required to complete a pre-departure medical health evaluation.

Crew goes through daily health and temperature checks. Guests undergo a mandatory briefi ng and health screening – which may include a rapid COVID test before boarding the Space Ship.

A negative Covid PCR test, taken within 72 hours of departure, is required to board the ship. For guests who require a Covid test before returning home, the line will provide a complimentary test near the end of their cruise.

AIR QUALITY

Scenic Space Ships are equipped with air circulation systems that ensure there is no re-circulation of inside air anywhere on board the ship. All cabins/suites have individual controls and all air fl ow comes from fi ltered outside air.

Physical distancing and masking procedures

Checking in and out of the ship at ports is now completely contact-free. A phased embarkation allows guests to arrive and depart smoothly and with safe social proximity. Contact-free hand sanitizer dispensers are available in all public spaces and guest corridors on board, while automated doors and contactfree guest servicing minimizes the number of touchpoints. Face masks are required to be worn by crew at all times and by guests in public areas. Scenic provides guests with masks.

The food and beverage service has been adapted to ensure extra care is taken in order to minimize social contact with dining tables restricted to no more than six (excepting the chef’s table) and staff served buffets.

In port, guests will travel in smaller groups, while respecting social proximity and destination specifi c regulations. All coaches are sanitized daily and kept at half capacity to ensure ample space between guests.

Current Capacity Limits

There are no limits on capacity at this time as Scenic Space Ships provide ample public space to accommodate far more guests than are both currently sailing and if the ships were fi lled. The ships carry between 96 and 171. Guests appreciate that they get to know the crew and other passengers during their time onboard.

AROUND-THE-WORLD CRUISES FOR THE TRIP OF A LIFETIME

These world cruises offer the ultimate itineraries.

RIVER

Dutch sights and Belgian delights with Floriade

Every 10 years, the world gets to enjoy the power of the Floriade Horticulture Expo, taking place in Almere, about 30 minutes from Amsterdam. Running from April 14 to October 9, 2022, the 7th International Horticultural Exhibition Floriade Expo is a massive park where a celebration of green and sustainable technology will be the focus. New technologies for greenery, food, energy and health will be shown off at this living laboratory and will contribute to Floriade’s four sub-themes: Greening the City, Feeding the City, Healthying the City and Energizing the City. Inspiring gardens, lectures and exhibitions will be mixed with impressive attractions. Add this to the other ports along the roundtrip route from Amsterdam – Delft and its world famous Delft Blue Pottery, the 15th-century village of Veere, and Hoorn, home to great cheeses and seafood – among several others. Fares start at CAD $4,495. scenic.ca/tours/windmills-tulips-and-belgian-delights-with-floriade/12543

AROUND-THE-WORLD CRUISES FOR THE TRIP OF A

OCEAN

Antarctica in Depth

Antarctica is on so many travellers’ bucket lists and 2022 will be one of the best years to make it happen. Having nearly no visitors throughout 2020 and 2021, the remote and pristine landscape is ready to welcome visitors – and has even arranged for a welcoming committee of tuxedo-wearing penguins – in the thousands. Scenic’s Antarctica in Depth offers a 13-day adventure with a full six days exploring many of the White Continents best landing spots. Prices for the 2022-2023 season start at CAD $21,055 per person, double. scenic.ca/tours/antarctica-in-depth/12296

OCEAN

Baja and Costa Rica Discovery

The long and wildly untamed coastline of Western Central America beckon those wishing to get back to nature – at least during the day. With stops in Mexico (after departing San Diego), Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica, guests will have a taste of everything - rugged tropical mountains, endemic wildlife, cobblestone streets and breath-taking seaside of what has been referred to as the Mexican Riviera. And then there is the rich marine wildlife to learn about and observe from the deck of the luxury Scenic Eclipse - playful sea lions, dolphins, tortoises and dozens of species of fish. Prices for the 14-day sailing start at CAD $11,555. scenic.ca/tours/baja-and-costa-rica-discovery/12379

FROM TOP LEFT: Fields of tulips in Holland; Scenic Eclipse in Antartica; Arco de Santa Catalina, on a sunny day in Antigua, Guatemala; Capuchin monkey standing on a branch in the tropical jungles of Costa Rica.