Birmingham magazine May 2020 by Birmingham magazine

SEE INSIDE THREE

MEET THE MAN BEHIND

EXPERIENCE THE WILD BEAUTY

UNIQUE BEACH HOMES

THE ICONIC 30A BRAND

OF THE OUTER BANKS

PAGE 46

PAGE 60

PAGE 67

THE BEACH ISSUE

PLUS

MEET OUR 2020 TOP ATTORNEYS

PAGE 74

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THE BEACH ISSUE MAY

Retreat to the Beach See inside three unique homes along the Gulf Coast. BY LAUREN HELMER PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER PAUL LUKER

46 A Way of Life Meet the man who started the popular 30A lifestyle brand. BY TARA MASSOULEH MCCAY

60 A Wild Escape Experience the natural beauty of North Carolinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coast on an adventure to the Outer Banks. BY JULIA SAYERS GOKHALE

PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER PAUL LUKER

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• TABLE OF CONTENTS

23 42

TABLE

30 05

From the Editor 06 Snapshot

CITY LIFE 09 Arts DIGITAL GRAFFITI FESTIVAL

What’s Wrong? What’s Right?

23 Spotlight

SOL Y LUNA

SEA ISLAND, GA

Food Fight

STEAK TACOS

13 Update 14

The Buzz

The Hot List

It’s a Southern Thing

People of Birmingham

LIVING

Cooking 101

ICEBOX PIES

Happy Hour

MAYAWELL

City Bite

ROCKET SHRIMP FROM OFF THE HOOK

Take Off Shop Local

SOAP FROM HARMONY CREEK FARM

24 Hours

NAVARRE BEACH, FL

Wish List

BEACH BAGS

Top Attorneys

SPECIAL PROMOTION

95 Quiz

CHOOSE YOUR BEACH

96 Postscript MAY 20

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MAY 2020 Volume 60, Issue 05

EDITORIAL Julia Sayers Gokhale (1) EDITOR IN CHIEF jsayers@al.com

SALES Deidra K. Diaz (2) ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ddiaz@al.com, 205-325-3343

Tara Massouleh McCay (3)

MARKETING

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Don Taylor (5)

tmassouleh@al.com

PRODUCTION detaylor@advancelocal.com

John Archibald, Verna Gates,

205-325-3336

Lauren Helmer, Will Lochamy, Anna Mazurek, Sarah Cook McBride, Matt Mitchell, Eric Velasco CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE 205-325-2408 800-357-9553

DESIGN

Birmingham@omeda.com

Nicole Gerrity (4) CREATIVE DIRECTOR ngerrity@al.com

ADMINISTRATION Tom Bates PRESIDENT

J.D. Crowe, Mary Fehr, Kassady Gibson,

Alabama Media Group

Laurey Glenn, George Harris, Patricia Lay, Christopher Paul Luker, Michael J. Moore, Tamika Moore, Cary Norton, Tonia Trotter

Kelly Ann Scott VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT Alabama Media Group

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, ILLUSTRATORS, AND STYLISTS

Bart Thau VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING Alabama Media Group Natalie Pruitt CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Alabama Media Group

COVER PHOTO BY LAUREY GLENN

Mail letters and story ideas to Editor, Birmingham magazine, 1731 First Ave. N., Birmingham, AL 35203. bhammag.com. Copyright 2018 by Birmingham magazine. All rights reserved. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial contributions. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the permission of Birmingham. Birmingham #56800 (ISSN 0006-369X) is published monthly by Alabama Media Group, 1731 First Ave. N., Birmingham, AL 35203. Phone: 205-325-2408 or 800-357-9553. Email: Birmingham@ omeda.com. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, Alabama and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to Birmingham magazine, 1731 First Ave. N., Birmingham, AL 35203. Subscription rate is $15 a year in the U.S. and possessions; $25 a year in Canada, Mexico and other foreign countries.

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• FROM THE EDITOR

A Mental Escape

THIS WAS A DIFFICULT issue to produce.

Our Beach Issue embodies everything there is to love about vacationing by the ocean—a favorite spring and summer activity of Birminghamians. For the past four years, we’ve

Write To Us

We’d love to hear from you! We always appreciate hearing from our readers, and we’re asking you to continue sending us feedback. What do you like about this issue? What do you want to read about next? Have you attended any of the events we’ve written about? Visited any of our featured restaurants? Let us know by emailing us at letters@bhammag. com. We look forward to seeing your name in our inbox. And keep an eye out for your comments right here under the editor’s letter in future issues!

loved bringing this special issue to our readers, but this year, as we send the issue to press in the middle of a global pandemic, it feels different. Here at Birmingham magazine, we work far in advance on our issues. In fact, we’ve been working on this Beach Issue since last fall. There was no way we could have seen what was coming. A week prior to sending this issue to press, Governor Kay Ivey announced our beaches would close. The city of Birmingham is under a shelter-in-place order. These times are scary, and they are challenging. But I hope this issue provides you with some hope for the future. While traveling to Navarre Beach (page 40), Sea Island (page 35), or the Outer Banks (page 67) might not be possible right now, allow these stories to provide you with some escapism or memories of happier times—and remember, you can always plan for the future. This issue isn’t just about destinations, though. It’s about that indescribable, happy feeling you get at the beach. It’s a feeling entrepreneur Mike Ragsdale knows well and even built the popular lifestyle brand 30A around (you know that bright blue-and-yellow sticker you see on everyone’s car?). Read his incredible story of success on page 60. You also can get a peek into three stunning beach homes along the Gulf Coast on page 46. Bear with us as things might have changed since press time—specifically in regards to our featured events in The Buzz (page 14). Even if

they’ve been rescheduled, you can still make a bucket list of those that appeal to you. As far as our food content this month, luckily there are several food trucks featured (page 27 and 33) that are still out on the streets serving up the dishes we write about (think spicy shrimp and authentic tacos). You also can support the brick-and-mortar restaurants we write about by ordering takeout from them until their dining rooms reopen. Even Mayawell, the new tequila and mezcal bar featured on page 30, is doing to-go cocktail kits. Even though these are trying times, we will get through it. Businesses are finding innovative ways to support our community, and the community in turn has come out tenfold to support our local businesses. It’s been inspiring to see, and I’m so proud of Birmingham’s strength and heart when facing hardship. When this is all over, the first place we’re heading is the beach. In the meantime, though, kick back with this issue, close your eyes, and imagine the sound of the crashing waves. We’ll be there soon, Birmingham.

JULIA SAYERS GOKHALE, EDITOR IN CHIEF | jsayers@al.com Follow me on Instagram @juliasayers

Together Apart Though we’re socially distant, our community is stronger than ever. Here’s how we’re doing our part to stay connected and engaged. In these uncertain times, we all have had to adapt to new ways of life. Businesses have found new ways to serve the public, restaurants have shifted to focus on to-go and delivery orders, and gyms have begun offering virtual fitness classes. Though it’s not ideal, we’ve been extremely impressed with the fortitude of our small business owners to adjust and make the best of the situation. It’s our role as Birminghamians to keep the spirit of our city alive by supporting the many businesses who make the Magic City truly magic. Follow us on Instagram @bhammag as we continue to share the efforts of our local businesses, and learn how you can support them. If you are a business owner, feel free to tag us on Instagram for a share, or email us directly at letters@bhammag.com to let us know how we can help. MAY 20

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• SNAPSHOT

HANGING OUT Although this year’s Hangout Festival has been postponed due to the pandemic, we’re still celebrating the spirit of the carefree music festival with this throwback to the 2018 event. Since 2010, Hangout has provided music lovers from around the world with top-notch entertainment set against the beautiful backdrop of Alabama’s white sand beaches and crystal-clear Gulf Coast waters. Photo submitted by Ginnard Archibald (@ginnard on Instagram). Share your best photos with us by tagging @bhammag on social media with #BhamSnapshot. 6

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CITY LIFE WHAT’S WRONG? WHAT’S RIGHT? 12 • UPDATE 13 • THE BUZZ 14 THE HOT LIST 16 • IT’S A SOUTHERN THING 17 • PEOPLE OF BIRMINGHAM 18

PHOTO BY KURT LISCHK A

Scenes from last year’s Digital Graffiti festival in Alys Beach

A Blank Canvas Alys Beach’s annual Digital Graffiti festival brings color and culture to the popular beach town. BY SARAH COOK MCBRIDE

BY DAY, ALYS BEACH is a sea of white-washed buildings. Nearby, blue waves are

arguably the only color disrupting its monotone composition. Once a year, however, those same walls will dance with vibrant and colorful animations after sunset. Alys Beach’s Digital Graffiti event, typically held in May but rescheduled to October 2–3 this year, invites artists from around the globe to showcase their impressive talents in digital technologies. By projecting myriad colors, shapes, and illustrations onto the town’s iconic white walls, artists are ushering in a new wave of creativity that speaks directly to a technology-driven culture. Now in its 13th year, the festival has grown to attract a hybrid type of artist—one that is deft in both visual aesthetics, as well as streams of code undecipherable to the untrained eye. MAY 20

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The festival started in 2018 as a way to recognize and celebrate digital artists from around the world. Inspired by college memories of projecting video games onto walls of friends’ apartments and dorm rooms, festival founder Mike Ragsdale recognized an opportunity hidden within the white walls of Alys Beach. By marrying technological innovations with interactive art displays, the Digital Graffiti festival was born. “It truly celebrates the intersection of art, technology, and architecture,” says Alexis Miller, director of events for Alys Beach. Sometimes referred to as “guerilla projection,” “photon bombing,” or “urban projecting,” digital graffiti is an art form that blends animation, design, and projection technology to create a one-of-a-kind experience. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of digital graffiti, artist Ian Gouldstone says, is that it can only be experienced once. Unless captured on video, digital graffiti is a fleeting wonder. “It’s a way to speak to people using contemporary technology. It’s a live performance of animation.” says Gouldstone, who won Best in Show for his work, “Wanton Boys,” at last year’s festival. His piece, which featured colorful geometric elements that bounced between architecture, was inspired by a Shakespearean play. It spoke to the universal emotion of feeling confined by others and yourself. One of the challenges of crafting digital graffiti, Gouldstone explains, is considering how images, shapes, and colors will appear when projected onto different surfaces. In 10

| Birmingham |

Top left and this photo: “Wanton Boys,” last year’s Digital Graffiti winner

the case of Alys Beach’s architecture—which provides the equivalent of a blank canvas with its white walls—elements to consider are windows, doors, and other features. Shapes that wiggle, squirm, and explode are some of the animations that’ll bounce between each home’s features. Some of the elaborate and innovative projections invite viewers to interact with the art directly. This could look like stepping into the projection and becoming a part of its story, or swinging on a giant swing that triggers musical notes with each new height reached. The effect, organizers say, becomes an augmented reality, blending the artistic world

with the tangible one. Hopefully, Gouldstone says, viewers enjoy what they see but also ponder the projections’ meanings. “I want people to come away from the experience with different ideas, different feelings,” he says. “The main thing for me, in all of my work, is about trying to stimulate people’s imaginations while using technology to speak a contemporary language.” The festival attracts droves of filmmakers, musicians, photographers, and avid consumers of all things art. Digital submissions for the event pour in from places as far away as Israel, Austria, India, and China. The result is a cul-

FAR LEFT AND BOTTOM PHOTO BY FELIX CLOVELLY | TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY KURT LISCHK A

• CITY LIFE | ARTS

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TOP PHOTO BY KURT LISCHK A | BOTTOM PHOTOS BY FELIX CLOVELLY

• CITY LIFE | ARTS

Left and this photo: “Wanton Boys,” last year’s Digital Graffiti winner

tural event that knows no boundaries. Paired with the New Urbanism style of architecture that surrounds the beach, the weekend evokes a foreign appeal. The white-sand shoreline is one of the only reminders that you’re still on the Gulf Coast. “Alys Beach is a really unique place, and to have art situated there makes it a very unique experience,” says Gouldstone, who will be attending this year’s festival as an artist in residence. The 2020 festival will place special emphasis on technology and the increasingly large role it plays in the relationship between art and its audience. “The interaction between the artist’s

creations, the environment, architecture, and the audience generates an experience that isn’t replicable,” Miller says. “Each festival is, in itself, its own masterpiece—a once-in-a-lifetime experience.” Once darkness descends on the beach and the animations take over the previously white walls, Brett Phares, longtime curator of the festival, along with a panel of esteemed judges, selects which projections showcase the most creativity and originality while festivalgoers enjoy sophisticated cocktails and high-brow fare. When the plug is pulled and the sun rises on the morning after festival weekend, lively

images are likely to still echo and dance in the eyes and minds of those who witnessed the magic the night before. “You can sort of imagine the potential of the place even when all those things aren’t there,” Gouldstone says of this after-effect. “It’s really an amazing thing to do for a community.”

DETAI LS LEARN MORE ABOUT THE FESTIVAL AT ALYSBEACH.COM/EVENTS/ DIGITAL-GRAFFITI-2020.

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What’s Wrong? What’s Right?

Where do we stand? Will Lochamy of Birmingham Mountain Radio weighs in on what’s happening in our city.

RIGHT Andy Kennedy being hired as the new UAB basketball coach is a literal game changer. The team was in much need of a shot in the arm, and Kennedy is giving that to one of the best medical schools in the country. Birmingham’s own Rashada LeRoy and her LRY Media Group were chosen from companies all over the country to produce the World Games opening and closing ceremonies. As an African American woman-owned firm, this is a huge step in the right direction. Stepping up to help our local students, UAB is providing matching dollars to the Birmingham Promise scholarship. Promise participants who are firsttime freshman choosing to attend UAB will get a one-to-one tuition scholarship match. UAB does it again! While we, as a community, country, and planet, have experienced one of the worst crises in our history, the love and support shown to neighbors and businesses in need has been unprecedented. It’s the one thing that hasn’t shocked me recently.

WRONG

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ts, recent even In light of ining la p right com I don’t feel small e th t ou ng ab s on and nitpicki cu fo s onth. Let’ hope stuff this m d an ow n ht for what’s rig fussing n return to that we ca er on so es ol -7 about-6poth -5 ter. -4 la an th er rath

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CLOCK WISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTO BY THOMAS GRANING | PHOTO BY ROY S. JOHNSON | PHOTOS VIA ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ YUOAK , MICROSTOCKHUB

• CITY LIFE | WHAT’S WRONG? WHAT’S RIGHT?

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• CITY LIFE | UPDATE

UPDATE

This month’s Magic City news FINANCING FOR THE FUTURE Two local female financial advisors have teamed up to create a new business dedicated to helping women understand and plan for their financial future. The Wealth Edit LLC launched on International Women’s Day in March. The business is based around an online program where women take a quiz that places them on one of six paths to help them plan their financial trajectory. The subscription includes online path coaching, as well as a few other free services.

BATTERY PACKED

Birmingham at the Beach

CLOCK WISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTO VIA ALYS BEACH ART VIA ISTOCK .COM/LANKOGAL | ICONS VIA ISTOCK .COM/BANANAJAZZ

NEXT TIME YOU VISIT 30A , and specifically Alys Beach, check

out the handy work of one of Birmingham’s very best. Last spring, Nequette Architecture & Design completed ZUMA, a 15,000square-foot multi-function wellness center. Named after the Mediterranean word for peace and wellness, the facility is open to Alys Beach homeowners and guests and includes a lift room, movement room, cardio room, and recovery room, plus an indoor/outdoor pool, two treatment rooms, steam rooms, tennis courts, and gorgeous natural exterior spaces. ZUMA’s breathtaking design is based around natural light, large glass framing, luxurious landscaping, and calming water features.

WHO’S ON FIRST? THREE IN ONE We all know about the live-workplay community concept, and now a new downtown condo development called 2323 is taking that idea to heart with signature live-work units. Ideal for entrepreneurs and those who work from home, the units feature separate street entrances for customers. To address the play portion, 2323 condos, located at 2323 Second Avenue South, are within walking distance of many Birmingham entertainment districts, including Pepper Place, The Battery, and the Rotary Trail.

A new mixed-use development is in the works for the former Armour & Co. meat processing building on First Avenue North, next to The Literary Council of Central Alabama. The development by Christopher Architecture & Interiors will include 24 one-, two-, and three-bedroom residential units, as well as 20,000 square feet of commercial space. The commercial space will consist of a co-working space and a restaurant.

Developer Ward Neely brought The Battery to downtown’s Automotive Historic District in 2018. Home to popular businesses including Birmingham District Brewing Company, Gus’s World Famous Hot Chicken, Magic City Nutrition, and True 40, the development has quickly become a staple in the downtown scene. Two years later, Neely is set to do it again with part two of The Battery, slated for a historic former hotel across the street. The Battery II will take over the EyersRaden Building and include 40,000 square feet of retail shops and restaurants. A coffee shop and an old Florida dive bar concept inside a shipping container already have signed on for the $10 million project. Paying homage to the building’s former life as a boarding house, the top two floors of the building will be transformed into a 22-room hotel.

RETAIL ROUNDUP

Here’s the rundown on area merchants, including new openings, expansions, and relocations.  Chop – A Florida-based barbershop chain put its first Alabama roots down in Hoover. The new barbershop for men and women is located in the Patton Creek Shopping Center and offers haircuts, beard trims, coloring, and more.  SEE – Standing for Selective Eyewear Elements, this optical boutique is now open at The Summit between The Cheesecake Factory and Chuy’s. The eyewear store sells high-quality and limited-edition glasses frames, and also has an optometrist on site for eye exams.  Warby Parker – The popular national eyewear retailer is expanding its Pizitz location into the former Yellowhammer Creative space. The store’s additional square footage will make room for comprehensive eye exams and in-store contact lens fittings as part of the launch of Scout, the brand’s line of daily contact lenses.  Carriage House Weddings – After 16 years in Homewood, local bridal boutique Carriage House has made the move to Mountain Brook. The new 1,300-square-foot shop is located in the Lane Parke development across from the recently opened Sol y Luna.

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• CITY LIFE | THE BUZZ

THE BUZZ

What’s happening around town this month

May 2

Grab your finest hats and head to Soho Social for The Charity League’s Kentucky Derby viewing party. Cheer on your favorite horse and jockey while decked out in your finest derby apparel, mint julep in hand. Prizes will be awarded for best hat, as well as best dressed male, female, and couple. Raffle prizes and games also will be part of the free event, which benefits speech- and hearing-impaired children in Alabama.

PENSACOLA CRAWFISH FESTIVAL

May 8-10

Get your fill of mudbugs at this annual food festival featuring 16,000 pounds of boiled crawfish, fresh from Louisiana. Held at Pensacola’s Community Maritime Park, the event also features other Cajun fare, including boudin, jambalaya, etouffee, fried seafood, gumbo, and more. A kids’ area featuring a playground, face painting, games, and arts and crafts will provide kids with plenty of festival fun. fiestapensacola.org/crawfish-festival

thecharityleague.org/calendar

Cullman Strawberry Festival May 2

Celebrate all things strawberry at Cullman’s annual Strawberry Festival. The festival marks the beginning of strawberry season in the South and has been around for more than 80 years. Fresh strawberries will be plentiful; special dishes include strawberry ice cream, shortcake, lemonade, and daquiris. The festival also will feature live music, arts and crafts vendors, kids’ activities and rides, and a vintage car show. facebook.com/cullmanstrawberryfest

Corporate challenge May 16

The Corporate Challenge takes team building to the next level with a day of fun, healthy competition at Railroad Park. For the past five years, Chick-fil-A has put on the competition where local businesses compete against one another in events like dodgeball, tug-of-war, golf, jump rope, cornhole, home run derby, rock climbing, basketball, and more. bhamcorporatechallenge.com 14

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CLOCK WISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOS VIA ISTOCK .COM/JCPHOTO, BHOFACK 2, RAWPIXEL , ANILAKKUS

KENTUCKY DERBY VIEWING PARTY

BEACH EVENT!

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• CITY LIFE | THE BUZZ

DO DAH DAY

May 16

One of Birmingham’s oldest traditions, Do Dah Day is a celebration of our furry friends. The event includes a parade of owners, pets, and floats with prizes for the best float, best team, largest pet, best movie-themed pet, best dressed pet, and best pet/owner look-alike. The event also includes a kids’ area, live music, food, and drink. The parade begins at 11 a.m. and festivities in Rhodes Park along Highland Avenue begin at 12 p.m. The event benefits animal charities in the Birmingham and Jefferson County areas. dodahday.org

LEGION FC

May 16 and 30

Don’t miss your chance to see our USL team on their home turf at BBVA Field. The Legion takes on Saint Louis FC at 6:30 p.m. on May 16 and Sporting Kansas City II at 6:30 p.m. on May 30. Tickets start at $15. bhmlegion.com

Alabama Bonsai Spring Show May 16-17

Head to the Birmingham Botanical Gardens’ auditorium for a weekend of bonsai education from the Alabama Bonsai Society. The annual spring show features bonsai trees on display and for sale, as well as demonstrations by bonsai masters and vendors selling pots, tools, and soil, so you can plant your own living works of art. facebook.com/AlabamaBonsaiSociety

BIRMINGHAM’S NEXT HOT DOG CONTEST May 30

Think your dog is the cutest in the ‘Ham? Put your money where your mouth is by entering your pup in The Animal League of Birmingham’s dog contest at Avondale Brewing. Enter your furry pal in up to 11 categories ranging from “Best Fur-do” to “Best Dressed” or “Sassiest Senior.” The event also will include vendors, food, and music. Proceeds benefit rescues, shelters, and needy animals in the Birmingham area. animalleagueofbirmingham.com MAY 20

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• CITY LIFE | THE HOT LIST

THE HOT LIST Books, movies, albums, TV shows, and more— this month’s top culture picks BY ANNA MAZUREK

WHO TO FOLLOW:

@VisitAlBeaches

No matter the destination for your summer beach trip, follow local social media accounts to find activities and aid in trip planning. The Gulf Shores and Orange Beach Tourism board is active on all social media channels as @VisitALBeaches, posting information about events, restaurant suggestions, and overall inspiration with stunning photographs. They also have a YouTube channel.

WHAT TO WATCH: Of Shark and Man

THIS STUNNING PHOTO BOOK from

travel writer Carrie Miller hit shelves in February and features 350 photographs from National Geographic to inspire your next trip to the ocean. The book covers every corner of the world, from Hawaii to Antarctica. It’s more than just a coffee table book, though. It also includes guides to marine life, conservation tips, and diving advice from famous National Geographic explorers and divers. The book is divided into

three sections—beginner, intermediate, and advanced/all-level dives. Contributor Brian Skerry digs into the intrigue of the underwater world, writing “For those who dive, the water’s edge is never the end of the trail: it’s just the beginning. Beneath the waves awaits a realm quite unlike any other on Earth, where on any given day absolute magic can be found.” Whether you’re a seasoned diver or an armchair enthusiast, this book is the ultimate diving bucket list.

WHAT TO DOWNLOAD: Hoopla Digital Hoopla Digital is an online platform that provides free access to e-books, audiobooks, and movies with your public library card. The app is available for all smart phones and e-readers, and also is accessible directly through Hoopla’s website. It’s an excellent way to download travel guides and audiobooks for your beach trip, and with a massive library of new releases and classics, you’re sure to stay entertained on even the longest of road trips.

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Thirty-two-year-old David Diley walked away from his dead-end industrial job in Northern England to do something exceptional and unexpected—make a documentary about sharks in the tropics. The stunning cinematography gets up-close and personal with some of the world’s biggest and most dangerous sharks. The documentary is essentially a love letter to sharks and shares the story of the famous Shark Reef in the Pacific. It’s available for free streaming with Amazon Prime.

WHAT TO BINGE: Outer Banks

For fans of “Riverdale,” “The O.C.,” and “Gossip Girl,” Netflix’s new show “Outer Banks” provides the perfect blend of crime, adventure, and teen drama in a gorgeous setting. The coming-of-age story follows a tight-knit group of local teens in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The search for a missing father, forbidden romances, a high-stakes treasure hunt, and the escalating conflict between the friends and their rivals turn their summer into one filled with mystery and adventure they’ll never forget. The show hit Netflix April 15.

CLOCK WISE FROM LEFT: PHOTO VIA ISTOCK .COM/JOEBELANGER | PHOTOS VIA @VISITALBEACHES PHOTOS VIA ISTOCK .COM/IMAGEDEPOTPRO, AKLIONK A

WHAT TO READ: “100 Dives of a Lifetime: The World’s Ultimate Underwater Destinations” by Carrie Miller

MAY 20

4/2/20 12:01 PM

• CITY LIFE | IT’S A SOUTHERN THING

Y’all Are Doing the Beach All Wrong

How to spend a proper weekend on the Gulf Coast. BY MATT MITCHELL

ILLUSTRATION VIA ISTOCK .COM/CSA-PRINTSTOCK

I HATE TO BE THE

bearer of bad news, but y’all are doing the beach all wrong. I realize that’s a bold statement, but please hear me out. I lived close to the beach for years and still make an annual trek down to the beautiful, white-sand shores of Orange Beach and Gulf Shores for a week-long retreat and one-man shrimp-eating competition. Upon arrival, I am immediately greeted by salty air, annoying seagulls, and thousands of license plates from states that apparently don’t have their own beaches. This article is not for those people. I can’t blame them for not knowing how to act at the beach. This is for my fellow Alabamians. Specifically, those above what I call “The Salt Life Line,” an imaginary line that stretches from Eufaula to Grove Hill. Everyone below that line could possibly be living the “Salt Life.” They probably know how to act when visiting the beach. As for the rest of us, we need some occasional guidance. For starters, don’t put a Salt Life sticker on your vehicle. And while we’re on this subject, maybe leave the YETI sticker off, too. No one cares that you overpaid for a cooler. Second, try to eat at a seafood restaurant that doesn’t sell their own line of t-shirts. Don’t get me wrong, I love LuLu’s and Sea-N-Suds as much as the next guy, but there are some real gems out there that don’t sell wearable billboards. These mom-and-pop places are usually off the beaten path and serve up some of the best seafood you’ve ever eaten. Those are the places the locals frequent, so just ask one of them where to find the best shrimp in town. Or look for the parking lot with the most license plates starting with the number 5 (that’s Baldwin County’s tag for everyone that’s never played the Alabama license plate game). Remember those annoying seagulls I mentioned earlier? They’re only annoying because y’all keep feeding them. They’re actually really good at finding their own food in the Gulf of Mexico, so stop letting them feast on your leftover Pringles. Another tip: Invest in a big tent. Of course,

I’m talking about a canopy and not a tent you would take camping at Mount Cheaha. I’ve always called them tents, but you should probably know the official name if you ever wander into an outdoor store looking for one. Just know that if you say the word “canopy” out loud, you’re going to sound like you came from Wisconsin or somewhere else far away from here. Then you’ve got bigger problems than how you spend your time at the beach. Anyway, if you like going to the beach and actually spending time on the beach, I can’t recommend a tent enough. You’ll have room for you chairs, cooler (or coolers), and whatever else you lug down to the sand every day. Also, be prepared to lose that tent. In all my years of going to the beach, I’ve learned that the average life expectancy of a beach tent is

around 1.5 years. Yes, you should still get one. But try not to get attached. Because it definitely won’t stay attached to you—or those little stakes used to anchor it into the sand. I have plenty more beach advice to dispense, but I have to keep some of it for myself. Just know that a loyal beachgoer is never actually going to tell you their favorite place to eat seafood. They’d much rather you and everyone else frequent their second-favorite spot, that way they’ll never have to wait at their favorite. Matt Mitchell is a writer for It’s a Southern Thing’s sketch comedy team, where he lends his uniquely Southern voice to help tell the story of the South. In some parts of Alabama, he is known as “The Ostrich.” It’s a long story. Follow him on Twitter @ALostrich and @southernthing. MAY 20

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â&#x20AC;¢ CITY LIFE | PEOPLE OF BIRMINGHAM

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MAY 20

4/1/20 5:22 PM

An Unlikely Friendship

PRODUCED AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY TAMIKA MOORE

“My connection with Lucas has given me a special connection to nature. I’ve always enjoyed walking and being outside. I feel most spiritual and connected when I am outside or in nature. Doing that with Lucas in the bay, that is a very quiet moment for me. It is very grounding. It’s very spiritual. To me, that relationship that I have with Lucas—or just being outside, or just listening the wind blow—is the closest that I have ever felt to God. He has left a very positive impression on me. The lessons that a goose has taught me about creating a connection with nature and with life transcend into my relationships with people and how not to take that for granted. You can create connections with people because everyone has their own story. Lucas has his own story. I think that is something that I’ve come to appreciate and value. He grounds me to what’s real.” - Tracy Wilhelm of Foley, Alabama with Lucas the goose, who has been his friend for more than eight years. Wilhelm is an elementary school art teacher. People of Birmingham is a subset of People of Alabama, a human-interest project by Alabama Media Group and Alabama Bicentennial. It features photos and stories of the people who call Birmingham (and in this case Foley) home.

MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

4/1/20 5:22 PM

WA LT O N A LEGACY O F LE I SU R E South Walton’s 26-mile stretch of sparkling white beach in Northwest Florida oﬀers an all-natural escape, yet perfectly blends modern amenities, world-class cuisine and small town charm into an unforge� able experience. The days move a bit slower here, perfectly timed with the laid-back lifestyle found along the coast. It’s this simplicity – a day spent creating memories at the beach – that draws generations of families back to South Walton.

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4/1/20 5:31 PM

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TABLE FOOD FIGHT 27 • COOKING 101 28 • HAPPY HOUR 30 • CITY BITE 33 A Dia de Los Muertos altar dedicated to Guillermo Castro, the restaurant’s original owner, is displayed in the restaurant.

The Sun Rises Again

Sol y Luna, a favorite Birmingham restaurant in the early 2000s, recently reopened in Mountain Brook. BY ERIC VELASCO MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

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• TABLE | SPOTLIGHT

THE FIRST BITE OF SOL Y LUNA’S

crabmeat enchilada is bliss—the generous portion of sweet crustacean snaps through its corn tortilla wrap, tart tomatillo sauce, and crunchy slaw topping. Nostalgia builds with each subsequent bite of this beloved dish. It was a mainstay at the original Sol y Luna, a groundbreaking eatery in Lakeview that introduced Birmingham to tapas-style dining and premium tequilas when it opened in 1997. Founded by Guillermo Castro, the original closed a couple of years after his fatal heart attack in 2011. Guillermo’s brother, Jorge Castro, is the central figure behind the revived Sol y Luna, which premiered in January in the Lane Parke development in Mountain Brook Village. Jorge was a bartender at the original. He also ran its sister restaurant, Cantina Tortilla Grill, which was displaced in mid-2019 from its longtime location in the Pepper Place district. (Plans to relocate Cantina, possibly to the Avondale area or near Railroad Park were put on hold after the opportunity arose at Lane Parke for Sol y Luna.) The new restaurant remains a family affair. Guillermo’s and Jorge’s brother, Alex, is a partner. Jorge’s wife, Aimee, oversees the front of the house. Alex’s son, Christopher, is in charge of the servers. Jorge’s namesake son runs the bar. Tapas-style dining is designed to be communal, which the Castros encourage by placing wooden platforms on the tables that can hold several plates. “We want people to share this food while enjoying each other’s company,” Castro says. Much of the menu will be familiar to Sol y Luna old-timers, including the smoky tequila24

| Birmingham |

Clockwise from top left: Queso Flameado with Chorizo. The restaurant’s new location is in the Lane Parke development in Mountain Brook Village. The Shrimp Diabla features smoky tequila-chipotle shrimp.

chipotle flambé called Shrimp Diabla ($17), and Iron Skillet Mussels ($14) with a hearty broth of wine, garlic, chipotle, and lime juice that begs to be sopped with the toasted bolillo bread that accompanies it. Sabana Mexicana, cheese-topped beef medallions and chipotle-tomato chutney, as well as the rich-and-creamy Tomatillo Lobster Soft Taco (both are market price) also are favorites among customers past and present. Another top-selling dish from the original, Red Snapper al Mojo de Ajo (market price), is sauteed with large shrimp and doused with a reduction of wine, spicy dried chiles de arbol, garlic, and onion. “We have a lot of customers who remember Sol y Luna,” Jorge Castro says. “And we’ve had a lot of new ones stop in because they heard about it.” Fans of Cantina and its catering operation

might recognize Sol y Luna’s Grilled Salmon ($16) and Duck Empanadas ($14). The latter is a pastry-wrapped blend of savory shredded duck meat, creamy cojito cheese, and chunky salsa made with purple onion, minced fresh chilis, cilantro, and bell peppers. Don’t overlook the Chile en Nogada, ($14), a relleno-like roasted poblano pepper stuffed with ground beef and dried fruit, seasoned with cinnamon. The creamy topping of goat cheese, garlic-pecan sauce, and dried fruit enhances its piquancy. Desserts include sticks of deep-fried churros and crepes filled with platanos, a type of banana. Both ($7) come with cajeta, Mexican-style caramel made with goat’s milk. Sol y Luna’s drink menu features more than three-dozen tequilas. Most are $5-$15 a pour; a shot of the restaurant’s most exclusive tequila, Rey Sol Extra Anejo Private Selection, is $53.

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4/2/20 12:05 PM

• TABLE | SPOTLIGHT

Clockwise from top left: Aimee and Jorge Castro have reopened the restaurant of Jorge’s late brother, Guillermo. Shredded Beef Flautas are on the tapas menu. The ceiling in the dining room is covered with small white lights that look like a starry sky. The Sol Y Luna margarita is spiked with serrano peppers. The Chipotle Chicken Tortilla Soup features three different chilis. The bar’s Cucumber Mojito is made with Campesino rum, soda, lime, cucumber. mint, and simple syrup.

MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

4/2/20 12:05 PM

• TABLE | SPOTLIGHT

Clockwise from top left: Crabmeat Enchiladas are a signature dish at Sol Y Luna. A bartender mixes up a cocktail at the bar. The new restaurant features a large, wrap-around bar. A photo of Guillermo Castro, owner of the original Sol Y Luna, is on display in the restaurant. The El Matador Margarita is made with strawberry.

With all those tequilas in stock, margaritas dominate the specialty cocktail menu. The Sol y Luna Margarita ($9) is spiked with serrano pepper. Puerto Vallarta Margarita ($9) pays tribute to the Jalisco state, the home of tequila, with tart tamarind. El Matador Margarita ($9) features hibiscus and strawberry syrup. Familiar flavors can be found in the Cantina Margarita ($8) made with key lime, and Cantina’s signature Perfect Margarita ($9). Other cocktails play new riffs on standards like the Old Fashioned. One version is made with barrel-aged Hornitos Black tequila ($11); another combines tequila and mezcal and is finished with mole cocktail bitters ($12). The classic rummy Pina Colada is reimagined as a Gin Colada ($8). The Bama Mule 26

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swaps the standard vodka with whiskey from Birmingham’s Dread River Distillery. Wines by the glass ($9–$12) or bottle (most are in the $30–$40 range) skew toward Spanish and South American labels. Beers ($4–$6 drafts/$3–$5 in bottles or cans) include both Mexican and local brews. Sol y Luna’s interior exudes simple elegance. White walls showcase decorative elements like a chandelier made from curly, multicolored blown glass and a mural depicting a smiling woman by a full moon. Small white lights strung along the ceiling evoke a starry sky. Guillermo’s spirit is very much present. His portrait hangs near the bar, and a take on a Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) memorial also honors his memory.

The Castro brothers briefly considered a different concept when planning the new Sol y Luna, but felt compelled to remain true to its founder’s vision. Asked if his brother would love the reincarnation, Jorge doesn’t hesitate. “I think he’s smiling up there.” DETAI LS SOL Y LUNA | 920 LANE PARK COURT (MOUNTAIN BROOK VILLAGE) 205.407.4797 | SOLYLUNABHAM.COM PHOTOS BY CARY NORTON

MAY 20

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• TABLE | FOOD FIGHT

Taco ’Bout Great Tacos

Our editorial sta ff weigh in with the ir “expert” opinion s

Our city’s got a strong taco game; see which of these fierce contenders takes home the title of top taco. A S A D A TA C O

Restaurant: Los Dos Hermanos taco truck What’s In it: Marinated steak, cilantro, white onion, two corn tortillas, lime and hot sauce on the side Tasting Notes: “Steak has a great charred taste.” “Double corn tortillas hold up well to the filling.” “You don’t need anything fancy to make a killer taco.” “Our favorite street taco.” Price: $2 each Rating:

PHOTOS BY K ASSADY GIBSON/FOCUS CREATIVE

A L C A R B O N TA C O

Restaurant: El Barrio Restaurante Y Bar What’s In it: Marinated sirloin steak; roasted poblanos, onions, and bell peppers; cabbage slaw; corn tortilla; spicy chipotle sauce; lime on the side Tasting Notes: “Fall-apart-tender meat with a citrusy flavor.” “Smoky, sweet chipotle sauce is a nice addition.” “Cabbage slaw gives a good crunch.” Price: $12.50 for 3 Rating:

THE SIZZLER

Restaurant: Taco Mama What’s In it: Grilled steak tenderloin, grilled onion, avocado, lettuce, tomato, red chili butter sauce, queso fresco, flour tortilla Tasting Notes: “Steak is really tender with good flavor from buttery red chili sauce.” “Plentiful avocado, with other fresh toppings to keep it interesting.” Price: $10 for 2 (with chips, salsa, and a side) Rating:

TA C O S D E C A R N E A S A D A

Restaurant: Los Amigos Mexican Restaurant What’s In it: Seasoned steak, pico de gallo, hot sauce, flour tortillas Tasting Notes: “A good option for a more Americanized taco—i.e. the meat tasted like classic taco seasoning.” “Hot sauce made it super spicy.” “Pico de gallo was nice and fresh.” Price: $12 for 3 (with rice and beans) Rating:

MAY 20

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4/1/20 5:35 PM

• TABLE | COOKING 101

Easy as Pie

These icebox pies are simple to make, great for a hot day, and require very little (if any) cook time. BY ERIC VELASCO WHEN THE WEATHER’S HOT and the

beach beckons, chilling with a slice of icebox pie does the trick. This old-school Southern-style treat sweetly beats the heat. Simple to make, icebox pies require little time in a hot oven, if any. Even the pie crusts are no-bake. And the pies are served cold, sometimes even frozen. It’s easy to see why icebox pies were so appealing when they became popular in the late 1800s, long before the first electric refrigerators. They were named for the cold-storage device, chilled by a block of ice, where they were kept. Traditionally, neither of the following pies would have been baked. Chilling set the filling. The lemon or lime juice in some icebox pies also helps set egg yolks, similar to how those juices simulate the effects of cooking in dishes like seafood ceviche. But the potential for salmonella infection

through eggs, a byproduct of mass-production, has been a consumer health concern since the 1980s. Pasteurized eggs are an alternative. (In recipes that call for whipping the whites, pasteurized eggs do not work as well as regular, but that’s not an issue here.) This recipe for Lemon Icebox Pie, enriched with egg yolks, includes a brief turn in the oven for reassurance. But infection from eggs is extremely rare, according to the Food and Drug Administration. Using fresh eggs from a reputable local farmer further lessens chances. Like mousse, foamy cocktails, tartare, and the other ways we commonly consume raw or undercooked eggs, you should be able to enjoy if it’s from a trusted source. Making lemon icebox and key lime pies are similar. But since key limes are hard to find and harder to juice, using the bottled key-lime product makes sense.

But don’t cheat yourself on this lemon pie. Fresh-squeezed lemon juice and microplaned zest make a huge difference in taste. Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie is not only an egg-free, no-bake pie, it also is easily assembled. The only special equipment required is a food processor for graham cracker or cookie crust (and in a pinch you can crush them in a resealable bag). I cranked the chocolate quotient to 11 by using Oreos with chocolate filling instead of the original. Their icing-like filling creates a challenge when breaking down the cookies, but pays off with a luxurious crust. The peanut butter-sugar-butter mixture is easy to mix by hand. A microwave and heatproof glass measuring cup makes short work of preparing the chocolate ganache topping. Use a hot knife to slice the pie. Then savor the flavor—and chill out.

Lemon Icebox Pie Serves 8

14 graham crackers (about 1½ sleeves) 1 stick butter, melted 2 cans sweetened condensed milk 3 egg yolks Zest from 2 lemons

Fresh whipped cream (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 2. Make crust by pulverizing crackers

in a food processor, making sure no chunks remain. Pour into a mixing bowl and add melted butter. Stir until blended. Press crust along the bottom and side of a pie plate until it’s evenly distributed and there are no holes in the bottom. Refrigerate 30 minutes or freeze 10 minutes.

3. In a mixing bowl, combine remaining

ingredients until well-incorporated. Pour mixture into pie crust. Bake 15 minutes until filling is set but still slightly jiggly. Cool for

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1 hour on a wire rack and refrigerate several hours, until cool. 4. Before serving, top with whipped cream,

preferably freshly made.

PHOTO VIA ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/MPHILLIPS007

1¼ cups fresh-squeezed lemon juice (approx. 5 large lemons)

MAY 20

4/1/20 5:38 PM

• TABLE | COOKING 101

Peanut Butter Chocolate Pie Serves 8

PHOTO VIA ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/HEDIDWHAT

14 tablespoons (1¾ sticks) unsalted butter, divided 1 package (24) Oreo cookies (I used chocolate filled) 1½ cups (about ¾ pounds) creamy peanut butter 1 cup powdered sugar 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips ½ cup heavy whipping cream Peanuts (optional for garnish)

1. Remove one stick (8 tablespoons) of

butter from refrigerator to soften. Melt remaining butter and set aside. 2. Make crust by pulverizing cookies

butter, softened butter, and powdered sugar until all ingredients are well incorporated. Remove pie plate from refrigerator, evenly spread filling over crust and return to refrigerator for 30

minutes (or 10 minutes in the freezer) to set. 4. Add half of the cream to a glass

measuring cup and warm for 15 seconds in a microwave. (You can do this same process in a pot or doubleboiler on the stove, if desired.) Add chocolate chips and remaining cream. Heat in 15-second intervals, stirring after each, until chocolate melts and blends with cream. Allow mixture to cool, about 15 minutes. 5. Remove pie from refrigerator. Spread

chocolate mixture over the surface. Refrigerate for 1–6 hours, covering with plastic wrap when chocolate shell hardens. Top with peanuts as garnish, if desired.

MAY 20

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â&#x20AC;¢ TABLE | HAPPY HOUR

Down the Rabbit Hole

Tequila and mezcal bar Mayawell showcases these Mexican spirits via craft cocktails and a fun atmosphere. BY ERIC VELASCO

The Polilla Luna cocktail is made with blanco tequila, St. Germain, cucumber, and lavender.

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MAY 20

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• TABLE | HAPPY HOUR

Clockwise from top left: Mayawell is located near Pepper Place. Neill Crook, Katie Toomey, and Adam Toomey run Mayawell. The bar features plenty of seating, including a banquette along the wall. A selection of cocktails left to right: Unknown Pleasures (blanco tequila, Cocchi Americano, orange liqueur, mezcal mist, and grapefruit oil), Cool Your Jets (blanco tequila, mezcal, guava, jalapeño, agave, lime, coconut water), and Polilla Luna.

WITH AGAVE-BASED TEQUILA and

mezcal having their moment in the sun these days, Mayawell Agave Spirits and Cocktails has quickly become the premiere place to showcase them in Birmingham. The name Mayawell is a play on Mayahuel, the Aztec name for the goddess of agave, a spiny-leafed plant native to the Americas that people have long fermented into alcoholic drinks, and eventually learned to strengthen through distillation. Legend has it Mayahuel gave birth to and agave-nursed 400 rabbits, whose mischievous ways symbolize revelry, mayhem, and drunkenness in Aztec lore. Rabbit images appear throughout the bar’s exterior and interior; customers are playfully nicknamed conejitos (little rabbits). The idea for Mayawell was conceived during

owner Neill Crook’s travels to Mexico, including the Jalisco state of western Mexico where tequila is produced, and Oaxaca in the south, where mezcal is made. Then a forensic accountant, Crook longed for an entrepreneurial opportunity. “I started going down the rabbit hole,” he says, “and decided to open an agave bar.” Tequila and mezcal both are made from agave, but diverge from there. By law, tequila only can be made from blue agave, one of the plant’s roughly 200 varieties. The pina, or heart, is crushed and steamed to extract its sweet juices, which are fermented and then double-distilled. Mezcal, which generally is fermented and double-distilled in small batches in Oaxacan villages, can be made from 30 varieties of agave. Those pinas are pit-cooked with hot rocks, which imparts earthy, rustic, and sometimes

smoky flavors, says Katie Toomey, who oversees Mayawell’s bar with her husband, Adam. Mayawell’s atmosphere is inviting and comfortable. Several tables line a banquette, while others are encircled by couches and funky chairs. There’s more seating along the bar and at high-rise tables nearby. An outside patio seats a couple dozen, with room for 20–30 more on a second-floor deck. The food truck Mezon Catering dispenses delicious tacos, burritos, quesadillas, loaded tater tots, and daily specials from the bar’s backyard. “Tequila, tacos, and sunshine. What a combination!” Neill says of the symbiotic set-up. Mayawell is well-situated, with Automatic Seafood and Oysters a block down 29th Street in one direction, and Pepper Place’s restaurants a block away in the other. People already are turning the circuit into a fun night out. MAY 20

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4/2/20 12:07 PM

• TABLE | HAPPY HOUR KATIE AND ADAM’S RECOMMENDATIONS TEQUILA Katie: El Tesoro Adam: Casamigos, Don Julio

MEZCAL Katie: Montelobos Adam: Banhez and Del Maguey

Clockwise from top left: Mayawell’s backyard features an outdoor patio and a place for on-site food truck Mezon Catering to park. Katie Toomey manages the bar with her husband Adam. The Cool Your Jets cocktail is a favorite signature drink. Colorful paintings and exposed brick walls give the bar’s interior a playful vibe. Adam Toomey mixes a drink at the bar.

In addition to more than 30 tequilas and a dozen mezcals, Mayawell stocks the usual liquors. Wine is sold by the glass or bottle. Beers include Mexican and European imports, local and craft products, and macrobrews. The classic cocktail section of the menu ($7–$11) includes an excellent, balanced margarita; standards like the tequila-grapefruit paloma; agave riffs on the old fashioned and Moscow Mule; and divey tipples like beertomato micheladas. “We want our agave drinks to be familiar to people who drink other spirits,” Katie says. Several signature cocktails ($10) spotlight the versatility of both tequila and mezcal. They’re listed with flavor, mood, or ingredient descriptors like: El Caballero (dark fruit, warm, chivalrous). The Unknown Pleasures cocktail (bright, elegant, intriguing) plays with the flavors in a 32

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Manhattan, but its hue is clear. Exhibiting a tart nose from Cocchi Americano aperitif and orange liqueur, the tequila drink is misted with mezcal and grapefruit oil. Cool Your Jets (spicy, tropical, hydrating) balances mezcal’s smoky and earthy qualities with the breezy sweetness of housemade guava syrup, tart lime, soothing coconut water, and blanco tequila. A sliced jalapeño garnish delivers deliciously spicy scents. But the best way to appreciate good agave spirits is to sip them straight. Forget every college party or foggy night spent shooting tequila. That shaker of salt should stay lost. Premium tequila and mezcal, and all their nuances, should be savored neat. “Start by smelling,” Katie says. “Identify the aromas—fruit, earth, even gasoline, or rubber. Then you sip. Swirl it in your mouth and breathe in. With mezcal, it’s some-

times [like] boom—then the flavor’s gone. But some linger on the palate.” Most Mayawell tequila is $6 –$15 for 1½-ounce pours; ultra-premiums top out at $25–$40. Most mezcals are $9–$21; a few run $30–$40. Flights of three 1-ounce pours are available. “It’s overwhelming how adventurous people are,” Adam says. “They’re really open-minded about tequila and mezcal.” DETAI LS MAYAWELL | 2900 FOURTH AVENUE SOUTH | 205.957.4485 | HOURS: MON-. THURS., 4 P.M.-MIDNIGHT; FRI.-SAT., 4 P.M.2 A.M. | MAYAWELLBAR.COM PHOTOS BY K ASSADY GIBSON/FOCUS CREATIVE

MAY 20

4/1/20 5:41 PM

PHOTO BY MARY FEHR

Hook, Line, and Sinker

OFF THE HOOK FOOD TRUCK has been trawling around town for several years, and they’ve now got a permanent home at The Grocery Brewpub in Homewood. Known for fresh seafood “street food,” Off the Hook serves up dishes like fish tacos, crab cake sliders, and shrimp po’boys. One of the truck’s most ordered creations is the Rocket Shrimp, a spicy and addictive dish that’s made waves in the

• TABLE | CITY BITE

city. It starts with plump Gulf shrimp, which are lightly breaded and deep fried to a perfect crisp. The golden shrimp are then tossed in a spicy aioli until they’re thoroughly coated but still maintain their crunch. If you’ve ever had Bang Bang Shrimp, this is Off the Hook’s improved version. Topped with white and black sesame seeds, the dish will have you hooked—pun intended. ryouhooked.com

MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

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LIVING SHOP LOCAL 39 • 24 HOURS 40 •WISH LIST 42 The exterior terrace of The Cloister features a pair of grand staircases.

From Legacy to Luxury

The Cloister at Sea Island is a beautiful, historic property that has stood the test of time to become one of the nation’s most treasured resorts. BY JULIA SAYERS GOKHALE MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

4/1/20 5:49 PM

• LIVING | TAKE OFF The Cloister at Sea Island is on the Blackbank River.

UPON ENTERING THE CLOISTER at Sea

Island, you’re greeted by towering oak trees. Expertly incorporated into the landscaping, at first glance you might think nothing more of them, but these trees tell the story of Sea Island, a small island on the southern coast of Georgia. First opened in 1928, The Cloister at Sea Island, called “The Friendly Little Hotel,” was established by Howard Coffin and A.W. Jones Sr. as part of a plan for land development on three South Georgia barrier islands: St. Simon’s Island, Sea Island, and Sapelo Island. Almost immediately, lots on Sea Island began selling and a cottage colony started to thrive. One of the hotel’s prominent guests in its first few months of business was President Calvin Coolidge. He planted an oak sapling on the property, starting a tradition for visiting presidents, dignitaries, and royalty to leave their mark by planting a tree. Today, the tradition continues, and plaques mark the oaks that stand as foundations of something great. Just as the resort started to take off, the Great Depression hit—but it didn’t mean doom for Sea Island. Jones had an idea—the Sea Island Company would issue its own scrip to employees that could be used at every business in the county. It helped to save the resort, and The Cloister acquired international fame. Over the decades, the resort continued to grow—both in acclaim and size—and add to its list of notable guests. In fact, the resort hosted the G8 Summit in 2004 (becoming the only resort in the U.S. to do so). Today, The Cloister is the only resort in the world to win four Forbes Five Stars for 12 years in a row. It boasts five miles of private beaches, a beach club, tennis center, spa, multiple pools, yacht club, shooting school, and children’s programs, as well as three championship golf courses, including Seaside and Plantation, home of the PGA Tour’s RSM Classic. Other members of the Sea Island Family include The Inn at Sea Island on St. Simon’s Island, which offers casual accommodations with access to many Sea Island amenities, and Broadfield, a sporting club and lodge that offers seasonal hunting and fishing opportunities. The Lodge also offers six new cottages with 14 sleeping rooms, an oceanfront pool, 18-hole putting course, and a new state-of-the-art golf performance center. 36

| Birmingham |

Many of the rooms at The Cloister feature unique architectural details, such as exposed beams.

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Clockwise from top: Guests relax in the Garden Atrium at the Spa at Sea Island before and after treatments. An indoor pool is available to Cloister guests and Sea Island residents. At Sea Island, guests have the opportunity to get up close and personal with birds of prey during a Hawk Walk and other falconry programs.

UNWIND AND DINE

On Sea Island, you’ll feel like you’re a world away. The crown jewel of the island is still The Cloister, with its Spanish-style architecture and grand lobby boasting two-story ceilings, candelabra chandeliers, a massive fireplace, and a grand piano. The main building and its wings offer 265 rooms that seem more like upscale guest houses than stuffy hotel rooms. Many of the rooms have patios and unique features such as exposed beams, vaulted ceilings, and handcrafted Oriental rugs. What they all offer—in addition to down bedding and custom linens—is views of the spectacular property, teeming with native plants, palms, and towering trees around hidden koi ponds. Across the street from the building is the Forbes Five Star Spa at Sea Island, a must for any visitor. At what likely will be the most beautiful spa you’ll ever experience, you’ll relax in a peaceful garden atrium while waiting for your treatment. Bamboo and palm trees surround lounge chairs with blankets, and

a babbling brook provides calming ambient noise while you unwind with provided reading material. You’ll also have access to the spa’s other amenities, including eucalyptus steam rooms, dry saunas, mineral pools, and a labyrinth. Another spot to find your Zen is in the water atrium, a hydrotherapy pool and cascading waterfall surrounded by two-story windows. For treatments, enjoy Thai, Swedish, Balinese, and hot stone massages; body exfoliations and polishes; and facials for every skin type. Numerous options for activities abound at the resort, from the adults-only pool overlooking the Blackbank River and the sprawling pool at the Beach Club, to tennis, watersports, and fishing. If you want to explore the surrounding areas of St. Simon’s Island, Sea Island rents top-of-the-line BMWs to guests—for free. Take a brand-new BMW i8 with butterfly doors or a convertible Z4 for a cruise around the island. If you’ve got kids in tow, take them to the new Sea Strike & Pub at the Beach Club.

The restaurant has an attached bowling alley where you can throw a strike while enjoying delicious pub fare like 10 Pin Nachos, buffalo chicken dip, burgers, and flatbreads (the Cali Barbecue Chicken is a winner). Adults should make a reservation at the five-star Georgian Room for the chef’s tasting menu. Reserve the Chef’s Table, a private room nestled inside the kitchen, to get an up-close look at how the restaurant runs. The Georgian Room Lounge offers small bites and cocktails in a more casual atmosphere. The whole family can enjoy Tavola, an Italian eatery with wood-fired pizzas and homemade pastas. Burrata and arancini are a great start to the meal. An extensive pasta menu features ravioli, campanelle, spaghetti, gemelli, and more; accompaniments vary with the seasons, but you’ll always find fresh seafood available in several dishes. For pizza, try the Fiche with sage oil, fig spread, marinated feta, mozzarella, speck, and arugula. Tavola also serves breakfast each morning. If you’re MAY 20

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| Birmingham |

4/2/20 12:09 PM

• LIVING | TAKE OFF The pool at Sea Island’s Beach Club borders the beach.

looking for a lighter option to start your day, grab complimentary coffee and pastries in the Solarium, while the lovebirds in the circular glass room chirp their morning song. NATURAL BEAUTY

Founder Howard Coffin was captivated by Sea Island’s natural beauty; the resort embraces that through activities that showcase the great outdoors. The best way to experience the landscape of the island is on horseback. The resort’s stable offers beach rides, marsh rides, and equestrian training. The Sea Island Beach Ride will take you from the stables on Rainbow Island (take the resort’s shuttle golf cart five minutes up the road to get there) through marshes and over dunes onto the beach. The well-trained horses (like the sweet gentle giant Pinot) are perfect for both beginner and advanced riders. You’ll love feeling the sea breeze as you trot along the sandy shores of Sea Island. Another unique activity that Sea Island offers is the Hawk Walk, where you’ll take an outdoor walk with a falconer and a bird of prey. After you get familiar with the hawk, the falconer will allow you to wear a leather glove and summon the flying raptor to land on your hand. It’s a thrilling feeling watching the bird swoop with grace and intention to land lightly on your outstretched arm. Experience the sea that gives the island its name on a guided nature tour via boat. Both the Salt Marsh Nature Tour and Salt Marsh Dolphin Tour take you through tidal marshes to spot shorebirds, dolphins, and aquatic life. You’ll also see oyster beds and other species that 38

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The Solarium in the Cloister’s main building is a favorite spot for morning coffee.

make up the unique ecosystem of the barrier islands. If you’re lucky (and you most likely will be), dolphins will come to play in the wake of your boat. Sea Island plays hosts to couples, friends, and families, several of who come back year after year. On the resort’s website, guests reminisce on good times spent at the “Friendly Little Hotel.” Catherine from Birmingham writes: “For the first 25 years of my life, June 16th was my favorite day. This is the day our Sea Island vacation began. The next two weeks would be the best of my summer, most of which were spent in cottages 29 and 30 on 8th Street. The entire clan would spend two weeks swimming, biking, crabbing, and charging goldbrick sundaes to their

magic Sea Island number. We loved jeep train rides, finding shells at the end of the Island, and chip and putt. We were such a large group that there would often be multiple members of the family that won bingo in the same night. These summers and the memories we share (that are too numerous to count) are treasured by all of us.” Where the oaks still stand strong and Coffin’s and Jones’ legacy endures, Sea Island holds special memories for those that know its magic and awaits those who have yet to discover it. DETAI LS BOOK YOUR VISIT OR FIND MORE INFORMATION AT SEAISLAND.COM. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SEA ISLAND

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• LIVING | SHOP LOCAL

Sea and Suds

PHOTO BY CARY NORTON

Soap bar (multiple varieties), $6.50 each

SEA FOAM AND CRAFT ALES aren’t the only type of suds you can find on the Gulf Coast. Professional soap maker Ruta Qureshi, along with her husband Ali, brought their homemade soap business down South to Orange Beach in 2016. They made the move from their 25-acre Virginia farm, called Harmony Creek Farm, to Alabama in order to be closer to family. The couple’s small-batch artisan soap business, named after their farm, combines chemistry and artistic creativity to develop more than 60 different soap varieties that are allnatural and healthy for the skin and the environment. All of Harmony Creek Farm’s soaps are made from foodquality, natural ingredients, with a variety of essential oils and fragrances. Popular scents include Balsam Pine, Mint Mojito, Magnolia, Clean Cotton, and Lemon Thyme. The couple even pays homage to their new home with a soap called Orange Beach. The next time you visit the Gulf Coast, you can stop into their soap kitchen and boutique (located in SanRoc Cay) to pick up a freshly sliced bar or a bath bomb, or even attend a class where you can learn to make your own soap. Harmony Creek products also are available via their online store.

harmonycreekfarm.com.

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| Birmingham |

4/2/20 12:11 PM

• LIVING | 24 HOURS

24 Hours in Navarre Beach

Spend a weekend exploring one of Florida’s hidden-gem beach towns. BY VERNA GATES WHEN YOU STAND ON THE primordial soft white sands

of Navarre Beach, you can experience what the Spanish explorers saw when they landed in New World Florida. Follow the pristine white shoreline the whole nine miles of the Gulf Islands National Seashore to see the gentle curves of dunes, shaped by centuries of wind and water. The sea oats jet out from their tops and sides like a punk haircut, giving the appearance of Mother Nature’s sense of humor. Billed as Florida’s most relaxing place, a visit to Navarre can be as quiet as watching a rare Least Tern silently cut the air, or as brassy as dancing to a party band at a beachside bar. DAY 1

A.M.

BREAKFAST AT DONUTS IN PARADISE Pretend that the strawberries and cream donuts have fruit in them and thus comprise a healthy breakfast. If you need further proof of breakfast worthiness, choose the Fruity Pebbles. Or, abandon all pretense, as you are on vacation, and eat the chocolate Boston cream pie donuts. Your taste buds will thank you.

10:00

A.M.

WORK OFF BREAKFAST AT SAGE PADDLE COMPANY Sage Offutt will happily rent you a paddle board, kayak, or one of those beach bicycles that look like overgrown tricycles. Bike lanes run the length of the beach. A young entrepreneur, Sage opened her shop after receiving a devastating diagnosis of mobility issues. She turned her troubles into a business and paid off her $5,000 parental start-up loan after her first month. Her knowledge can direct you to the best places to put in a boat or crank up the peddles.

12:00

P.M.

LUNCH AT CACTUS FLOWER Order the fresh guacamole to eat with housemade chips that are remarkably greaseless. Try the mahi mahi fish tacos for a flavor of the beach. The homemade flan might just be the best you have ever eaten—give it a try and compare.

3:30

1:30

P.M.

VISIT THE GULF BREEZE ZOO Here the howler monkeys really howl! They have a baby who works tirelessly to get away from momma, much like the human versions on the other side of the enclosure. This zoo has a large primate and big cat population among its animals that you can see fairly close up. Ride the train through the natural area to see rhinos, hippos, orangutans, and gorillas living without walls (water does the trick). Feed the budgie birds, just beware that they may prefer the lettuce you bought for the giraffes and are not opposed to nibbling your fingers. 40

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P.M.

VISIT THE NAVARRE BEACH SEA TURTLE CONSERVATION CENTER When you enter the main room, Sweet Pea, the three-f lippered green sea turtle, will swim over to say hello. This curious reptile cannot be returned to the wild and serves as an education animal, or seemingly to her, the star of the show. The small center will give you a guided tour through the world of sea turtles and the center’s conservation efforts.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SANTA ROSA COUNT Y TOURISM DEVELOPMENT