baked the ultimate food high spring 2018 | issue 10
baked SPRING 2018 Megan Falk
editor-in-chief
Tess Berger Leah Cooper
executive editor managing editor
Emma Comtois Cassie Zhang creative director
photo director
Editorial Design senior editors Julie-Ann Elliston,
Nina Moll, James Pezzullo asst. editors Katie Bisbee, Alyson Weber copy editors Frankie Sailer, Karley Warden fact checkers Grace Curran, Bella Wildermuth
Food food director Sarah Feustle
designers Katie Czerwinski, Grace Fox,
Kateri Gemperlain-Schirm, Lucy Naland, Bridget Slomian illustrator Isabel Zuluaga Mesa
Photo photographers Sophia Hautala, Eliza Hsu Chen,
Katie Tsai, Ally Walsh, Qian Zhu
asst. food editors Keren Mevorach,
Elizabeth Salter
Digital digital editor Lee Musho social media director Matthew Schiff social media editor Ashley Tucker
Business & Communications pr director Monica Nowicki pr associate Rae Sanchez faculty advisor Melissa Chessher
Baked is Syracuse University’s student-run food magazine. Founded in 2011, Baked aims to widen food options for SU students by introducing kitchen amateurs to cooking, highlighting local businesses and eateries and connecting readers to the greater Syracuse food community. Baked publishes one issue each semester. Correction: In Baked's fall 2017 issue, the photos for “Soups for the Soul” were misattributed. Cassie Zhang, our photo director, took those photos. We apologize for the error and any confusion it caused. bakedmagazine.com @bakedmagazine @bakedmagazine facebook.com/bakedmagazine
table of contents baked 101
features
recipages
one more bite
06
14
32
46
08
16
Spice, Spice Baby Raindrop, Instant Pot
10
Stop, Drop & Roll
12
Turn Wasteful into Tasteful
Kitchen of Eden More Than a Grain of Salt
18
Taco ‘Bout a Good Tuesday
40
Finals Fuel
Eat It for the 'Gram
48
The Great Dining Debate
50
Wood-Fired What?
Dish-tory: Iroquois White Corn Soup
20
52
22
54
Hampered Harvests Farm to Fork Takes Central New York
Syracuse's Golden Ticket Get Fizzy With It
Growing up in Michigan, I’ve never felt distant from farm-fresh foods.
Each summer weekend, my family and I would squeeze ourselves into my mom’s SUV and head north to our lakeside cottage. Along the way, we’d pull off onto dirt roads and pick up a dozen ears of sweet corn (okay, and a dozen glazed doughnuts) from warm Amish farmers. After I expertly husked the green leaves and silky hairs off the cobs, we would toss them on the grill and later munch on the smoky, crisp kernels. Other afternoons, I would drive down to Detroit’s Eastern Market, where more than 150 vendors come together in a six-block public farmers’ market. Locally grown cherries and blueberries spilled over their small pails, and never-ending rows of crisp asparagus, carrots and tomatoes lined the edges of the sheds. Being in Syracuse, I still have this connection to fresh fruits and veggies, and in this issue, we show just how close to our local food producers we really are. On page 22, we explore the Ithaca Farmers Market, home to more than 160 vendors looking to sell their Metechi garlic or whole wheat scones bursting with organic berries. But some Central New York farmers are struggling to keep up with the region’s everchanging weather patterns, an issue we buckle down with on page 20. Even if you can’t make the trip to support small-scale growers, we’ll show you how to help out the environment instead, by stretching the life of your cherry tomatoes and cutting down on the food you toss in the trash (p.12). Food is more than a bundle of nutrients packed into a delicious substance that keeps our bodies thriving — it’s a lens into our community, and each of our food choices impacts it. Let’s get crackin’,
Megan Falk
baked 101
See page 10 for all-you-can-eat homemade sushi
SPICE, SPICE
BABY
Stop, collaborate and listen: Baked is back with unique spice inventions.
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Story by Alyson Weber | Photos by Cassie Zhang
lthough there’s nothing wrong with a simple piece of grilled chicken or buttered popcorn, these bland bites will never quite meet Guy Fieri’s Flavortown standards. While prepared spice packets will add some kick to your dishes, mixing up your own customizable seasoning blends will save you money in the long run. So give that spice rack a few spins, grab those untouched containers and start fixing these five effortless blends.
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1
Taco Seasoning Makes 6 to 7 servings
Rub this on your choice of chicken, beef, tofu or cauliflower for the ultimate Taco Tuesday. Mix together ¼ cup chili powder, ¼ cup cumin, 1 Tbsp. garlic powder, 2 Tbsps. onion powder, 1 tsp. dried oregano, 1 tsp. paprika, 1 ½ Tbsps. salt and 1 tsp. ground black pepper.
2
Jamaican Jerk Makes 16 servings
Instantly upgrade your basic American barbeque spread of chicken, shrimp or pork to a Caribbean “paati” (or party) with some spices you can probably find in your cabinet. Mix together 2 Tbsps. onion powder, 2 Tbsps. garlic powder, 4 tsps. cayenne pepper, 4 tsps. paprika, 2 tsps. allspice, 4 tsps. salt, 2 tsps. ground black pepper, 1 tsp. red pepper flakes, 1 tsp. cumin, 1 tsp. nutmeg, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 ½ Tbsps. brown sugar and 2 tsps. dried thyme.
3
Herbes de Provence Makes 8 servings
Spread this blend on chicken, potatoes or fish and its aromatic flavor will transport you to the French Riviera in no time. Mix together 3 Tbsps. dried thyme, 2 Tbsps. ground savory, 2 Tbsps. dried oregano, 1 tsp. dried basil leaves, 2 tsps. dried marjoram, 3 tsps. dried rosemary and 2 tsps. dried lavender flowers (optional).
4
Moroccan Ras el Hanout Makes 6 servings
As one of the most essential spices in Morocco, Ras el Hanout is commonly used as a dry rub for meats and as flavoring for yogurt dip, rice or vegetable stews. In fact, the name Ras el Hanout is Arabic for the “head of the shop,” meaning it includes the best spices any merchant can offer his customers. To become the “head of the shop” yourself, combine 1 tsp. ground coriander seeds, ½ tsp. ground cumin seeds, ¼ tsp. crushed chili flakes, 1 ½ tsps. ground cinnamon, 1 tsp. paprika, ¼ tsp. ground clove, ½ tsp. ground cardamom, ½ tsp. ground ginger and ½ tsp. ground turmeric.
5
Indian Curry Makes 20 servings
Nothing says comfort food like a warm bowl of Indian curry served over rice. Customize your curry by using this spice blend on either chicken, tofu, beef, chickpeas or cauliflower. Mix together 2 Tbsps. ground cumin, 2 Tbsps. ground coriander seeds, 1 ½ tsps. ground turmeric, ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, ½ tsp. mustard seed, ½ tsp. ground ginger and ½ tsp. ground cinnamon.
spring 2018 | 7
Raindrop,
Instant Pot Story by Zoe Tolz Photo by Cassie Zhang
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With just one appliance, college cooking is made quick & easy
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ay goodbye to the Crock-Pot and hello to its speedy cousin, the Instant Pot. This trendy kitchen gadget cuts cooking time by 70 percent and is incredibly versatile, functioning as a pressure or slow cooker while also being able to steam and sauté all in a single pot. Whether you want to make chicken Alfredo or lava cakes, the Instant Pot can take on the job, making it the tool every college student needs in their kitchen. Thanks to its removable core, cleanup is a breeze, and one pot can make up to eight servings. But don’t be intimidated by the pot’s numerous vague buttons — Baked is here to help you understand the features of this triple threat of a tool.
Steam Setting For tender broccoli, salmon or chicken without the extra calories that come with pan roasting in butter or olive oil, use the steam setting. Pour water into the pot and place the steam rack inside, ensuring that the ingredients are above the water. After choosing the setting, select the desired temperature. The “Normal” setting cooks at high pressure for 10 minutes, which works best with fish and other seafoods; “More” should be used for meat and will cook for 15 minutes; and “Less” works best with vegetables, cooking for just three minutes.
Sauté Setting To use the sauté setting, simply press the sauté key and select a temperature with the “Adjust” button. The “Normal” setting reaches 320 F and is perfect for a regular browning, while “More” gets upwards of 338 F and “Less” at 221 F. Once the display shows “Hot,” you’re ready to start cooking. For a braised and tender pot roast, sear both sides of your seasoned chuck roast to create a layer of deep, caramelized flavor and crispy edges before the high pressure setting cooks the rest. To make a zesty sauce out of leftover juices, turn on this setting, add some starch and continuously stir, thickening the liquid in just a few minutes.
Meat & Stew Setting The meat/stew function is ideal for, you guessed it, meats and stews. Whether it be a family recipe for jambalaya or goulash, the function’s "Normal" setting will cook the meat at high pressure for 35 minutes, resulting in a softer-than-average texture per one to two pounds of meat. With its ability to make fall-off-the-bone meat in just 45 minutes, the "More" setting makes shredding homemade pulled pork a snap. For more heat-sensitive proteins like shrimp, opt for the "Less" setting, which will cook the stew for only 20 minutes.
Multigrain Setting When it comes to making farro, polenta or risotto, the multigrain setting is your best friend. Turn on the function, and on the “Normal” setting, the pot will cook grains at high pressure for 40 minutes. For tougher beans and wild rices, turn on the “More” setting, which will soak the grains at 140 F for 50 minutes without pressure; then, the pot will jump to 248 F and cook at high pressure for nine minutes. For a quick, hearty breakfast, coat the pot with nonstick spray, add a cup of water to ¼ cup of steel cut oats, and select the “Less” function. In just 20 minutes, oatmeal can be scooped into a bowl and sprinkled with blueberries. spring 2018 | 9
Stop, Drop & Roll Roll your way to sushi stardom with these tips and tricks. Story by Nina Moll Photos by Eliza Hsu Chen
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s the go-to meal for a Friday night out with friends or the only thing getting you through an all-day study sesh at Bird, sushi can make a big dent in your wallet. If you’re tired of throwing down 20 bucks for a couple subpar rolls stuffed with imitation crab, close the Grubhub app, find some real crab and get rollin’.
Toolbox
• A sharp chef’s knife to cut the roll’s ingredients • A rice paddle or spoon to thoroughly mix the sticky rice • A rice spreader or spatula to evenly spread the rice onto your preferred wrapping • Plastic wrap and bamboo mat as the surface to roll the sushi For as little as $6, you can find these sushi-making essentials on Amazon.
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Once you have the necessary equipment, you’ll need to gather fresh ingredients. Be adventurous — walk through the international food aisle of your grocery store and experiment with new flavors. Toss wasabi-flavored nori or chili paste into your cart to add a kick to your rolls. Check out Han’s Mini Mart in Marshall Square Mall or Asia Food Market on Erie Boulevard for Asian delicacies, as well as in-house prepared foods. Ask your fishmonger for fresh, high-quality seafood for your sushi — and don’t be afraid to ask when it was shipped in.
Ready, Set, Roll!
TIP: Keep a bowl of cold water nearby to keep your hands from getting sticky while assembling your ingredients. 1. Cover your bamboo mat with plastic wrap. 2. Spread a thin layer of sushi rice onto the plastic wrap and place a piece of nori on top. If you prefer the nori on the outside, reverse these steps.
3. Depending on your flavor preferences, lay out your ingredients on the bottom third of the rice or nori. Vegetables should be julienned — very thin, concise cuts. 4. Holding the ingredients in place with the tips of your fingers, begin to roll the mat forward. Push the mat until the sushi roll is completely covered by the mat and until the top and bottom edges of the nori meet. 5. Continue to push to create the shape and thickness desired. 6. Unroll your mat, run your knife in water so it doesn’t stick and cut your roll into eight pieces. Pair with soy sauce, ginger, and wasabi and enjoy!
Let’s Roll!
Each recipe makes one 8-piece roll Philadelphia Roll ¾ to 1 cup sushi rice 1 sheet nori 1½ oz. smoked salmon ½ small cucumber, julienned 2 Tbsps. cream cheese, softened Peanut Avocado Roll ¾ to 1 cup sushi rice 1 sheet nori 1 avocado, thinly sliced ½ cup salted, roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped Spicy Tuna Roll ¾ to 1 cup sushi rice 1 sheet nori Spicy tuna: 2 oz. sashimi-grade tuna, cubed ¼ tsp. sesame oil 1 green onion, cut into thin rounds ½ cup mayonnaise 2 ½ Tbsps. Sriracha Note: If this is your first time making sushi rice, carefully follow the directions on the package. spring 2018 | 11
Turn
wasteful into
tasteful
Your food was destined for better things than life in a landfill. Story by Rachel Lieberman Illustration by Isabel Zuluaga Mesa
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et’s be honest — it’s troubling how much food we waste each year. If you were to take a look in your trash can right now, that half of an avocado from your salad this afternoon would be looking up at you saying, “I was destined for better places than this garbage!” Americans waste 40 percent of the food produced in the U.S. each year. On average, an American household of four will throw away almost $1,500 worth of food annually, which is about 21.4 percent of the food purchased. That food waste ultimately ends up in a landfill, producing immense amounts of methane that trap the sun’s heat in the atmosphere and contribute to global warming. Convinced you should make the most out of your food? Baked has a few tips to help you out.
Get innovative with food scraps
It’s tempting to think you’ll never need leftover vegetable scraps, but that’s just not true. Instead of throwing out the half of a tomato a recipe didn’t call for, get scrappy with your scraps. Toss it in an omelet, layer it in a sandwich, transform it into slices of sun-dried tomatoes, or combine it with some mozzarella, salt, pepper, balsamic vinegar and olive oil for a delicious caprese salad.
Refresh your fruits and veggies
We all know the struggle of discovering the half of an avocado you left in the fridge is as brown as the skin it’s in. But with a squeeze of lemon juice, your favorite toast topping will be just as green as the day before. Likewise, there's nothing more una-peel-ing than a brown banana. But it’s what’s on the inside that counts, and that over-ripe banana is just as good as its yellow-peel counterpart. If you’re not up to eating it straight out of the peel, grab strawberries, ice and milk and blend it into a smoothie.
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Pop it in the freezer
Time seems to come to a standstill in a freezer, and everything from produce to baked goods seems to remain as fresh as the day you bought it. In the icy atmosphere, soups will last two to four months, beef will stay edible for roughly six months, poultry can last up to a year and fruits can last almost a year and a half. If you simply can’t finish off a loaf of bread before the mold eats it first, pop it in the freezer to give yourself an extra six months of delicious sandwiches.
Turn bones into broth
Next time you carve a turkey or chicken, put the bones in a slow cooker to make heartwarming broth. Putting bones in your broth adds nutrients like calcium, magnesium and vitamin D that boost your skin, joint and stomach health. To amp up your typical chicken noodle soup, toss a few bones into your chicken stock, and you’ll be ready for any sick day.
features Do you ever wonder why Syracuse is nicknamed Salt City? See page 16 for the company revitalizing that reputation
spring 2018 | 13
kitchen of eden In Hanover Square’s newest restaurant, Eden, local ingredients are cooked in style — and with fire. Story by Brittney West Photo by Cassie Zhang
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ooking over an open flame is unpredictable. As much as you may try to maintain the temperature of the fire, it will never remain the same. It’s impossible to throw some strip steaks on the wild fire, set a timer for six minutes, flip halfway through and voilà, it’s time to serve. You cannot predict when a log will shift or when the fire will pop. With this erratic behavior, no two
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dishes will taste exactly alike. Open flame cooking is at the core of Eden, a farm-tofork restaurant opening on Hanover Square’s East Genesee Street this July. With the goal of introducing a fresh way of cooking to the community, local neuroscientists Adam and Eve Anderson (yes, those are their names) partnered up with chef Richard Strub, who has cooked in higher-end restaurants across
“The slow cook time creates an incredible flavor you just can’t get any other way.” the Northeast. After working as a farm-to-table chef in Vermont, it was Strub’s priority to bring the lessons he learned about the way the food system impacts ecology to his next restaurant venture. He also wanted to explore open flame cooking, and the Andersons were fascinated by how this cooking method impacts dining experiences. So, the trio embraced humankind’s most primitive way to prepare a meal: with fresh-picked ingredients and an open fire. As naturally as the concept of open flame came together, so did the rest of the restaurant. Eden is situated in the Flagship Securities Building, which was built in 1896 as the first stone and steel structure in the city. Within the gardenesque environment, guests will sit at tables surrounding a large, open fire, giving them a behind-the-scenes look into how their dinners are prepared. With this “shabby chic” atmosphere and owners Adam and Eve running the show, the name Eden was a match made in heaven. Open flame cooking first became trendy in the 1990s due to world-famous Patagonian chef Francis Mallmann and restaurants like Etxebarri, the famed eatery in Spain’s Basque Country that pioneered the technique. It has since become increasingly popular in New York City, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and now, Syracuse. Through the open flame technique, Strub can delve into the roots of cooking and create a perfect balance of smokiness and natural flavor in each dish.
“I haven’t established one [dish] that is my favorite to cook,” Strub says. “That’s always a tricky question for chefs. You know, in like any profession, like if you’re an accountant, what’s your favorite number to crunch?” But he is eager to try his hand at preparing a spit-roasted ribeye, which will be paired with a helping of seasonal vegetables rescoldo, in which vegetables are cooked in the fire’s dying embers. “The slow cook time creates an incredible flavor you just can’t get any other way.” The menu will showcase seasonal, local ingredients from three farms in the Syracuse area: Greyrock Farm, Fresh Herbs of Fabius and Jones Family Farm. It will also change daily depending on the quantity of ingredients his farmers have available each night, creating an exciting, unpredictable environment for diners. “I’m really just hoping to support local farms and local businesses. Our main goal is to keep the money in Onondaga County when possible, if not New York state. And, you know, beyond that, have sustainable sources for the food we’re going to buy.” By becoming the only restaurant to feature open flame cooking in Central New York, Strub has big aspirations for Eden’s effect on other local restaurants. “I secretly kinda hope that Eden will change the Syracuse cooking scene,” Strub says. “I hope that what we will be doing is from-scratch cooking in kind of its purest sense.” spring 2018 | 15
More than a grain of salt
Syracuse’s newest artisanal salt company is revitalizing the Salt City’s reputation one fresh infusion at a time. Story by Karley Warden | Photos by Qian Zhu
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hether it’s sprinkled on greasy french fries or mixed into your go-to marinade, salt has the incredible power to transform subpar foods into delectable bites. Still, the culinary staple has long been left unaltered, with high-end chefs and home cooks opting for simple table salt or kosher salt. But with the introduction of Syracuse Salt Company’s locally crafted lineup of noteworthy infusions — from sweet lemon to lavender — co-owners and father-daughter duo David Lanicello and Libby Croom are restoring The Salt City’s name one artisanal salt shaker at a time. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Syracuse, New York, was a hotbed for salt production, supplying the city and the rest of the U.S. with the preservative. Water 16 | baked issue 10
from salt springs on the shores of Lake Onondaga was transferred into large vats and exposed to the sun for weeks, leaving a layer of fresh coarse salt to be racked up and shipped, or it was boiled to produce fine salt. By the mid-1800s, Syracuse came to be known as “The Salt City,” but that reputation has dwindled since. This faded repute sparked an entrepreneurial idea in the minds of Lanicello and Croom. After Croom came home from a trip to Maine with a container of local salt, Lanicello asked her, “Why don’t we have something like this here?” It was then that the two realized they could not name a single salt distributor in the area. “It kind of just snowballed from there once we started looking into this whole other world of salt that we didn’t know
existed,” Croom says. With their passion for cooking together coupled with the discovery of an unfulfilled market, the two began experimenting with various salt infusions and, in 2015, launched their own artisanal salt business, Syracuse Salt Company. Since opening its kiosk at Destiny USA in February, Syracuse Salt Company has introduced the city to more than 15 tastebudtingling salt infusions across various flavor profiles, ranging from white truffle, to Thai ginger, to lemon rose. Because of current restrictions on salt fracking in the area, the company sources its salt from all over the world, including Pakistan, France and Italy, along with the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. With the help of salt experts, the mineral is then infused with a variety of unique flavors and prepared to be shipped to customers. In recent years, salt intake has become a major health concern. Diets high in salt can have negative effects on a person’s kidneys, blood pressure and heart. But with a higher mineral count, lower amounts of sodium and a stronger salt flavor than traditional table salt, Syracuse Salt Company’s sea salts are a healthy seasoning alternative for any kitchen. And though college students may be weary about making use out of a $7 bottle of artisanal salt, Croom says it’s not as difficult as one would think. “That’s the number one question: What do you do with it?” Croom says. “But you don’t have to be a gourmet chef.” Rather than being intimidated by the salts’ unusual hues or unconventional flavor infusions, use these traits to your advantage. Add chipotle or roasted garlic sea salt to spice up a bag of popcorn or a baked potato, or sprinkle a dash of the ghost pepper or Sriracha salts onto a batch of scrambled eggs. To incorporate an earthy flavor into your burger, mix a few pinches of the company’s coffee salt into the patty. By strengthening their ties with local eateries like Glazed and Confused and The Stoop Kitchen, Croom and Lanicello are on the path to making Syracuse Salt Company a household name. And with a 15 percent discount for SU students at its Destiny USA location, Syracuse Salt Company will have you ditching your Morton and stocking your shelves with these gourmet infusions.
Feeling Salty?
Boost your Salt City pride by reading up on the abundant world of salt.
Table Salt Used most often as a go-to for any bland meal at a cheap diner, table salt is highly refined, which removes most of its impurities and trace minerals. Because of its refined state, it has a tendency to clump together when moisture reaches it, explaining restaurants’ reasoning behind the grains of rice found in their shakers. The salt also has added iodine, which is a necessary nutrient that, if left deficient, can cause thyroid issues.
Sea Salt Made from evaporated seawater, sea salt largely differs from table salt in that it may contain small amounts potassium, iron and zinc. Its large, crystallized grains can add a unique texture to any meal and pairs perfectly with both sweet and savory dishes. Salted caramel ice cream, anyone?
Himalayan Pink Salt This salt’s Millennial pink hue caused by its traces of iron oxide, or rust, doesn’t just up your overall Instagram aesthetic, it also has a lower amount of sodium than table salt, which can be beneficial for those with high blood pressure. Harvested in Pakistan, this seasoning also contains calcium, iron, potassium and magnesium.
Kosher Salt Named for its usefulness in extracting blood from meats as part of Judaism, kosher salt is less likely to be infused with iodine and anti-caking agents, though its flavor is quite similar to table salt. It has a large flake size that makes it painless to pick up and carefully sprinkle on dishes — or to break out your inner Salt Bae.
spring 2018 | 17
WOOD-FIRED
WHAT? In downtown Syracuse, Water Street Bagel Co. is bringing together the breakfast styles of Montreal and New York City.
Story by Elizabeth Salter Photo by Sophia Hautala
Left: Water Street Bagel Co. owners Luke Esposito and Meg Dellas 18 | baked issue 10
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he smell of hot, rising dough and charred logs of oak wafts through the air of the shop. Surrounded by clouds of flour, a baker stands behind the counter twisting and twirling pounds of freshly kneaded dough into perfect disks. The whites of his eyes glow like the burning pigments of the fire as he carefully pushes the batch into the wood-fired oven. The flames cackle as they crawl up the sides of the wood, filling the shop with warmth and encouraging the dough’s edges to rise and crisp. After 12 minutes, he shovels his golden brown batch off of the hot stone and places it on the counter next to him. This baker isn’t concocting artisanal pizzas — he’s making bagels. This definitely isn’t your typical bagel shop. Nestled in downtown Syracuse near Hanover Square, Water Street Bagel Co. will fuse the flavors of New York and Montreal, creating the ultimate unconventional bagel experience. While New York bagels are famous for their density and chewy texture, Montreal bagels are known for being wood-fired and undeniably crispy. And Water Street Bagel Co., the city’s newest breakfast joint and first independent, artisanal bagel shop, is where the lovechild of these two styles will come to fruition this June. The spot is the brainchild of owners Luke Esposito and Meg Dellas, who have spent more than three years fusing these two cities’ bagel styles together. Their business journey first began in 2016 while exploring cities across the continent. In Montreal, New York and Philadelphia, Esposito and Dellas popped in and out of cafés and soon discovered the perfect new way to “bagel.” To Esposito and Dellas, shops like those were exactly what was missing from downtown Syracuse, and soon, the idea for Water Street Bagel Co. was born. “It’s almost like a production,” Esposito says. “There’s a baker in there, moving bagels around, you can see the wood burning and there’s just a great smell. It really caught our attention.” After that first glimpse into the world of bagels, the real research began. “We did a lot before this all started,” Dellas says.
“We went into different shops, met with owners, and asked ourselves, ‘Could we really do this?’” In reality, the process of making a wood-fired bagel is very similar to that of any other bagel out there. The process at Water Street Bagel Co. begins in the basement with a large mixer. There, the dough is mixed, rolled and shaped before it’s transferred to the cooler to rest for 18 to 24 hours. After that, the bagels make their awaited debut upstairs in the kitchen where they are boiled and then pushed into the 8 ½-by-5 foot oven to meet their ultra-crispy fate in a matter of 12 to 14 minutes. “There’s just a natural thing about [the process],” Esposito says. “Everything is homemade, we aren’t buying anything premade. It just fits with our entire natural model.” In terms of the menu, Water Street Bagel Co. will serve up seven bagel varieties: plain, everything, cinnamon raisin, poppy seed, sesame, garlic and onion, along with hot breakfast, lunch-themed bagel sandwiches and housemade cream cheese. The shop has also partnered with Recess Coffee and will have a self-serve coffee station where customers can get their caffeine fix. In the warmLuke Esposito, er summer days, there will be open Water Street seating on Water Bagel Co. Street, and year- co-owner round, the freshly made bagels will be able to be seen cooking in the oven from virtually every angle of the establishment. “At the end of the day, it has to be about the bagel,” Esposito says. “No one can walk away from this and go, ‘Oh, that took forever,’ or, ‘Oh, the people in there are not nice.’ It has to be friendly. It has to be efficient. It has to be the best bagel around.”
"
At the end of the day, it has to be about the bagel."
spring 2018 | 19
HAMPERED
HARVESTS With an increasing number of sudden downpours and heat waves in the region, Central New York’s farmers are getting a handle on this new normal.
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Story by Allison Weis Photos by Ally Walsh
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he summer before freshman year is typically filled with the same eye roll-inducing small talk with relatives that always ends with a sole piece of advice: “Pack snow boots.” However, climate change has been messing with this trend, driving students to shift from Sorels to sneakers to rainboots multiple times a day, and the dramatic weather events that come with the temperature shifts have Central New York’s farmers worried. On February 21, 2018, Syracuse had its warmest winter day since the city started recording the weather 115 years ago. The morning started with Floridian temperatures in the mid-70s and sunshine, but by the end of the day, the temperature had dropped 30 degrees. Not only does this temperature shift translate to multiple outfit changes, but it’s also wreaking havoc on Central New York's crops and college students’ wallets. For the last five years, Wendy Burkhart-Spiegel, an owner and primary farmer of Common Thread Community Farm in Madison, New York, has lived in the region and dealt with the city’s volatile weather patterns. Though winter vegetables are hearty enough to withstand the temperature shifts, summer crops like peppers and tomatoes aren’t so lucky when it comes to a sudden frost. This, in combination with the increasing frequency of intense, single-day precipitation and unusually hot summer days, presents a significant concern for farmers like Burkhart-Spiegel. “Over the course of 20 years farming, the weather has gotten a lot more dramatic,” Burkhart-Spiegel says. “For us, the main issues have just been a whole lot of rain and dramatic rain events, like when the rain comes down it’s very intense, which is not great for germinating crops.” And the warmer autumn seasons aren’t helping, either. According to NASA, the planet's average surface temperature has risen about 2.0 degrees Fahrenheit since the late 1800s, and most of this warming occurred in the past 35 years. Though this shift may seem minimal, a 0.9 degree rise in temperatures could cause rainstorms to become onethird more intense and heat waves to last one-third longer, something Burkhart-Spiegel had to work around last fall.
“We had planned out our crops so that they would mature at this [particular] rate, and then they matured at a much faster rate,” Burkhart-Spiegel says. “So our lettuce and our broccoli all popped at once and we weren’t able to have lettuce the last week [of the season]. This makes it hard to know how to plan next year.” Just as balmy temperatures leave them dealing with produce shortages, early freezes demand farmers to mitigate their disastrous effects on crop yields. Though Burkhart-Spiegel and other Central New York farmers already utilize season extension tools like plastic structures and polypro cover to avoid damages caused by these frosts, they’re still trying to figure out how to manage the late-season warm weather.
“We have to compensate by a lot of over planting and extra plantings because it’s so hard to anticipate what weather we are going to have this year,” Burkhart-Spiegel says. “This year, [we] decided to add some extra fall plantings for certain crops — we just weren’t sure which one would be the right date. So we just planted some on both dates to try and cover our bases since we don’t know if it’s going to be a 70 degree fall or a 50 degree fall.” All of this planning ahead and planting of multiple batches of crops on different days doesn’t come at a low cost. With each additional precaution comes an extra expense that’s reflected on the price tags in the produce aisle. Burkhart-Spiegel has increased the prices of her harvests each year that she has been farming in the Central New York area, and as the effects of climate change become even more prevalent, it’s likely other farmers in the region will follow suit. So the next time you hit up Beak and Skiff, Abbott Farms or even the local produce section at Wegmans, don’t forget to bring the cash you were saving up for Flip Night. spring 2018 | 21
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Farm to Fork takes Central New York
With the help of the Ithaca Farmers Market, farmers, bakers and cheese makers are setting their places at local tables. Story by Megan Falk | Photos by Katie Tsai
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n the last Saturday morning of March, hundreds of Central New Yorkers rose out of hibernation and hopped into their Subarus to visit the iconic Ithaca Farmers Market in Ithaca, New York. There, a couple lingered in front of their favorite baker’s table, taking in the homemade berry pies and s’more bars before settling for lemon cookies. Regulars dug through baskets and filled their reusable bags with rainbow carrots, while others munched on samples of Gouda and chit-chatted with the cheese maker. Just an hour away from Syracuse, the market brings together the economically and socially supportive community and the bakers, farmers, and ranchers who grow or raise their specialties within a 30-mile radius. spring 2018 | 23
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I have a lot of regular customers here, but [at the Wednesday market], I know what they want before they come to the table.�
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Blue Bird Bakery Owner: Jodi Sterling
In the hours leading up to the market, Sterling can be found hustling to put the last batch of pear ginger scones — her favorite — in the oven before she makes the short eight-mile drive. The lifetime baker learned the trade from her father, and she first brought her business to the Ithaca Market, where her treats are exclusively sold, six years ago. Though she’ll always have — and run out of — fan favorites like pies and scones, Sterling changes up her menu each week and has added gluten- and egg-free baked goods to satisfy the sweet cravings of her customers with dietary intolerances. spring 2018 | 25
Six Circles Farm Owner: Jacob Eisman
With the help of his co-owner and brother, Eisman has been selling vegetables and housemade condiments and spice mixes at the market since 2002. Eisman’s interest in the food system roots back to his college days when he noticed the cafeteria’s substantial food waste. He later went on a trip to Africa and India, where he saw the countries’ corruption in food distribution, and soon decided to launch his own farm. In addition to harvesting rainbow carrots, purple potatoes and kale, the duo mixes their own brand of garlic scape pestos and hot sauce named after their grandmother Rosie. But Eisman isn’t only the face of Six Circles — he’s also a guest singer on his friend-slash-rapper Jacksonic’s album JGOATS, which features nine tracks about the farm.
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The market gives us a face … You go to a large grocery store and you don’t really see who grew the food or where it came from.”
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It’s a wealth of information. If you have a problem or you’re looking for a tool or a way to do something, you have all these other farmers to learn from.”
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Humble Hill Farm Owner: Rick Tarantelli
In his nineteenth year as a vendor, Tarantelli is an Ithaca Market veteran. The reggae-musician-turned-farmer first witnessed the beauty of farming on trips to Jamaica and came back to the States with a newfound passion for growing apples, peaches, pears, and most significantly, garlic. Tarantelli picked up the trade after attending a nearby garlic festival in the Hudson Valley and soon moved just south of Ithaca to join the market with his 10 varieties in tow. Whether it’s fixed with cloves of heat-packed Metechi or bold Music, Tarantelli’s favorite garlic-infused dish is the classic slice of garlic bread. spring 2018 | 29
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Being at the market makes you feel appreciated — you get to see first-hand people enjoying what you make.�
Crosswinds Farm& Creamery Owner: Sarah Van Orden Morrow
Since 2012, Van Orden Morrow and her husband have been making the 25-mile journey from their farm to the market to introduce their four artisanal cheeses to fresh palates. The couple raises and milks 40 Brown Swiss dairy cows to produce cheeses from start to finish, with some aging processes lasting up to 12 months. Named Morning Glory, Goblin and Butternut, each of the cheeses is a tribute to the cow whose milk was transformed into wheels of the farm-fresh specialties. Even the lactose intolerant can find something from the farm to satisfy their stomachs, including a whole hog destined for a pig roast. 30 | baked issue 10
Turn the page to learn how to host the ultimate taco tuesday
recipages
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TACO TUESDAY
‘BOUT A GOOD
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Tacos are a brilliant invention — you can’t deny that. They’re a satisfying mashup of flavors and textures, all wrapped up in a cozy carb blanket. So why not infuse the distinct flavors of other cuisines into the ideal fusion meal? Recipes by Sarah Feustle Photos by Eliza Hsu Chen spring 2018 | 33
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CURRY
TOFU
TACOS CURRY TOFU
Slice a 12 oz. block of drained tofu into ½ inch planks and season both sides of the planks with 2 Tbsps. curry powder and 1 tsp. cumin, pressing lightly to adhere the spice. Heat a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Once hot, add tofu in a single layer (it might not all fit at once) and let cook about 4 minutes, or until it lifts easily from the pan. Flip planks and cook another 4 minutes. Repeat with any remaining tofu. Once cooked, slice each plank in half lengthwise and place in the skillet with ¼ cup heavy cream and 1 ½ tsps. salt. Move tofu around gently to coat and cook over medium-low until liquid is evaporated. Serve with cucumber slaw and yogurt sauce in a naan.
CUCUMBER SLAW
Combine ¼ cup mint, coarsely chopped, ¼ cup cilantro, coarsely chopped and ½ cup plain, full-fat Greek yogurt in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and add a little water, thinning to desired consistency. Add 2 large cucumbers, matchsticked, and ½ cup green cabbage, shredded, and mix well.
YOGURT SAUCE
Combine 8 oz. of plain, full-fat Greek yogurt, juice of 1 lemon (about 3 Tbsps.), 2 tsps. honey, 1 clove of garlic, minced and ¼ cup water in a small bowl. Add more water, 1 Tbsp. at a time, thinning to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper. spring 2018 | 35
MIDDLE
EASTERN CHICKEN
TACOS POMEGRANATE CHICKEN
Combine 2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, 2 cloves of garlic, minced, ½ tsp. crushed red pepper and 3 Tbsps. pomegranate molasses in a large bowl. Cover and chill for 1 – 2 hours. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet. Working in two batches, cook chicken until golden brown and cooked through, 6 – 8 minutes per side. Once chicken is cool enough to handle, shred into bite size pieces with a fork (or your hands). Serve with parsley relish and yogurt sauce in a pita.
PARSLEY RELISH
Combine ½ cup dried currants, ½ cup unsalted, roasted pistachios or cashews, coarsely chopped, 2 Tbsps. olive oil, 1 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses, ¾ cup parsley, coarsely chopped and ½ cup mint, coarsely chopped, in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.
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THAI
SHRIMP
TACOS LIME GARLIC SHRIMP
Combine 1 lb. peeled, deveined shrimp, 1 clove of garlic, minced, 2 Thai chiles, minced, 1 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. sugar, 1 Tbsp. fish sauce and 2 Tbsps. lime juice in a large bowl. In a large skillet, heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil over medium heat. Add shrimp and sauté, stirring frequently, until shrimp are pink and opaque, about 6 minutes. Serve with papaya salad in a tortilla.
PAPAYA SALAD
Combine ½ cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped, ¼ cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped, 1 serrano chile, seeded and thinly sliced lengthwise, 1 large mango, sliced into thin strips, ½ medium papaya, sliced into thin strips and 4 scallions, thinly sliced lengthwise, in a large bowl. In a separate small bowl, whisk together 2 Tbsps. rice vinegar, 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. honey, 1 tsp. fish sauce, ½ tsp. chili powder, ¼ tsp. Dijon mustard and the juice and zest of 1 lime. Continue whisking while slowly adding ¼ cup vegetable oil until combined. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the slaw and toss to combine.
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Finals Fuel It’s the last week of the semester, and a midafternoon sugar crash won’t do you any good with your workload. So grab a napkin and power through exam week with these energypacked bites. Recipes by Baked Food Editors Photos by Sophia Hautala 40 | baked issue 10
Mango Toast Toast 2 thick slices of whole wheat bread and let cool. Meanwhile, peel and slice 1 large mango. Spread each slice of toast with 3 Tbsps. cream cheese, top each with half of the mango slices, drizzle with honey and sprinkle with Aleppo pepper, bee pollen and flaky sea salt. spring 2018 | 41
Blueberry Muffin Energy Balls Add 2 cups nuts, like pecans or almonds, to a food processor. Process until nuts are peasized. Add 1 cup dried dates and 1 cup dried blueberries and process until all ingredients have broken down and are a bit sticky. Add the zest of one lemon, 1 ½ Tbsps. lemon juice, ¼ tsp. salt and 1 ½ tsps. vanilla extract. Process until all ingredients come together to form a large, sticky ball. Divide and roll into small balls and store in fridge or freezer for up to 1 week. 42 | baked issue 10
Yogurt Bark Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In a large bowl, mix 2 cups nonfat vanilla Greek yogurt and 3 Tbsps. maple syrup until creamy. Pour the yogurt mixture on the prepared baking sheet and spread until thin. Sprinkle 1 cup assorted fruits, chopped (like blueberries, strawberries and pomegranate seeds), ½ cup granola and other desired toppings on top. Freeze for 2 – 3 hours, then break apart. Store in freezer. spring 2018 | 43
Asian Salmon Bowl Cook ½ cup quinoa according to package directions and set aside. Cut 1 head of broccoli into florets and arrange on parchment-lined baking sheet with 1 salmon fillet. Drizzle fish and broccoli with 2 Tbsps. olive oil and season with salt. Bake at 400 F for 10 – 12 minutes, until broccoli is tender and starting to brown at the edges and salmon flakes easily. In a small bowl, combine ¼ cup soy sauce, 2 Tbsps. rice vinegar, 1 tsp. Sriracha, 2 tsps. sesame oil, 2 tsps. honey and 1 clove of garlic, minced. Set dressing aside. Divide quinoa among two bowls, and top each with half of the salmon — you can break it into large chunks — and half the broccoli. Slice 1 avocado and put half in each bowl. Top with dressing, 2 scallions, sliced, sesame seeds, furikake and Sriracha, if desired.
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Roasted Cauliflower & Spiced Chickpea Salad Preheat the oven to 400 F. Chop 1 head cauliflower into florets and slice ½ red onion into ¼ inch thick slices, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the cauliflower and onions with 2 Tbsps. olive oil and season with salt and pepper, tossing to coat. Roast until browned, about 30 minutes, stirring halfway through. In a small blender or food processor, combine ¼ cup tahini, ¼ cup water, ¼ cup lemon juice, 2 cloves of garlic, ½ tsp. cumin, ¼ tsp. cayenne and ¼ tsp. salt. Blend until smooth and set dressing aside. Drain and rinse one 15-oz. can of chickpeas. In a large skillet, heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil over medium heat. Once hot, add chickpeas, ½ tsp. turmeric, ¼ tsp. cayenne, salt and pepper and stir. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until chickpeas get crispy and start to pop. In a large bowl, combine the cauliflower, onions, chickpeas and ¼ cup parsley, coarsely chopped. Drizzle the lemon-tahini dressing over top, and toss to combine. Serve warm or cold. spring 2018 | 45
Eat It ‘Gram for the
Are you up to the #challenge?
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Story by Chazz Inniss Photos by Ally Walsh
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he internet has done some weird things to influence how we eat food. From charcoal-infused pizza crusts to the raindrop cake, you would think we’ve seen it all when it comes to crazy food trends. Thanks to social media, we’ve uncovered perhaps the strangest trend to hit our news feeds: food challenges. And the latest to take over our feeds is the “Tide Pod Challenge” — if you even consider it to be food. It’s simple enough: Pop a multicolored detergent delight in your mouth and… enjoy? This isn’t the first food challenge to reach major mainstream popularity. Remember seeing all your junior high friends gag and gasp for air after putting a spoonful of cinnamon into their mouths? “We coughed a lot and thought we were going to die,” says Sara Disraeli, a sophomore at Parsons School of Design in New York City, reminiscing on the cinnamon challenge. “Honestly, it looked interesting, and we thought it would be fun to try.” The cinnamon challenge is the OG food challenge to take over social media — one that we grew up laughing at and daringly taking part in. GloZell’s cinnamon challenge video has hit more than 50 million views and skyrocketed her into internet stardom, unlike pre-teens’ attempts that just left them vomiting and getting a lecture from their mothers. Despite its dangers and countless warnings from doctors about the health hazards, there are about 1 million results for “cinnamon challenge” videos on YouTube. The earliest food challenges in America started in the county fair circuit, mostly consisting of pie-eating and hot dog eating contests. With the rise of the internet in the late 1990s, the food challenges we know today gained popularity. Two of the first viral food
challenges were the milk chugging challenge and the saltine cracker challenge, which both involved consuming huge quantities of food in less than a minute. Over the years, the stakes of the challenges have gotten even higher, as seen with the Chubby Bunny and the ghost pepper challenges that have left us biting off a little more than we can chew.
So, what makes these food challenges so appealing? Adam Brumberg, a research specialist at Cornell University’s Food and Brand Lab, believes it’s more of a FOMO mentality that’s helped these challenges gain mainstream popularity. “The explosion of it has more to do with recognition and getting noticed,” Brumberg speculates. “This isn’t new, it’s just intensified by social media.” The popularity of these food challenges is truly centered around the “do it for the ‘gram” attitude of doing anything for likes. Social media hasn’t changed only the way we interact with food, but also the food industry as a whole. With more and more “trendy” foods coming out each day, restaurants are creating gimmicky, aesthetically pleasing foods to attract consumers (looking at you, mega cocktails). With every post on #eeeats, you can see just how social media has changed the way we eat food. The phone eats first, right?
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Honestly, it looked interesting, and we thought it would be fun to try." Sara Disraeli, Parsons School of Design sophomore spring 2018 | 47
The Great Dining Debate Have you ever thrown down with your friends over the classification of a hotdog? Same. After surveying more than 100 SU students, we found that if you’ve got some controversial food opinions, you’re not alone. Story by James Pezzullo | Illustrations by Isabel Zuluaga Mesa
Pineapple on pizza?
Hell yeah (31.7%) It’s a disgrace to all pizzas (68.3%)
Smooth or creamy peanut butter?
Smooth criminal (76.0%) Crunch packs the punch (24.0%)
Ketchup on top of fries or on the side?
Drizzle it right on top (34.6%) I need a neat pile on the side (65.4%)
Drumsticks or flats? Drums or die (46.2%) Flat’s where it’s at (53.8%)
Twist Oreos apart or bite right in to them? Twist, I need to eat the icing first (27.9%) Give me the perfect cookie-to-cream ratio (72.1%)
Best way to eat eggs?
Fried (40.4%) • Poached (1.9%) Scrambled (46.2%) • Boiled (11.5%) 48 | baked issue 10
Eat the pizza crust or toss it? Give me all the crust (63.5%) It’s a waste of carbs (36.5%)
Edge or center-cut brownie?
I live for the crispy edges (68.3%) I’ll pass on the crunchy corner. Bring on the gooey middle (31.7%)
Is a hot dog a sandwich? It’s between bread, so it’s a sandwich (65.4%) In its dreams (34.6%)
How do you slice your sandwich? Horizontally (60.6%) Diagonally (39.4%)
What do you eat mac and cheese with?
A spoon, obviously (75.0%) A fork so you can slip the noodles on the prongs (25.0%)
Dip your fries in a shake? Heck yes (49.0%) Why would I want soggy, cold fries? (51.0%)
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Dish-tory: Iroquois White Corn Soup
Meet the historic soup at the heart of Haudenosaunee culture. Story by Megan Falk Photos by Cassie Zhang
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rowing up, Emily Porter was constantly surrounded by the nutty scent of Iroquois White Corn soup wafting from her family’s slow cooker. As a Cayuga, Porter has been eating the traditional dish for as long as she can remember. But no matter how many bowls of soup she devours, her mom’s recipe remains her favorite — it’s all in the balance of saltiness, the tenderness 50 | baked issue 10
of the pork and the half-popped texture of the kernels. For Porter, a senior food studies major at SU, and members of the five other nations within the Haudenosaunee (hoe-dee-noSHOW-nee), or Iroquois, community, corn is rooted in their culture. The grain is one of the Three Sisters — corn, beans and squash — which are believed to be the first foods given to the Haudenosaunee by Mother Earth. Unlike the sweet corn you gnaw off the cob at mid-summer barbeques, Iroquois White Corn is slender and pale, with its flavor profile ranging from earthy to sugary. In the 1600s, the corn fueled 4,500 members of the Haudenosaunee’s Seneca Nation in the town of Ganondagan. In 1687, French forces attacked the community, now in present-
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I am traditional in the sense that I want to continue doing things that my grandparents did, my mother did, everyone before me." Emily Porter, SU senior day Victor, New York, in an effort to knock the Seneca out of the competitive fur trade. The village was destroyed, and more than 500,000 bushels of White Corn were set on fire. Fortunately, with the help of Seneca seed savers, the variety was preserved and has been eaten ever since. Making Iroquois White Corn edible is no easy feat. The corn is soaked in hardwood ash, resulting in a hominy of softened kernels loaded with vitamin B3, protein and calcium. Traditionally, the hulled White Corn is then mixed with venison and kidney beans and fixed into a heart-warming soup. Each August, Iroquois White Corn Soup is enjoyed by attendees of the Green Corn Ceremony, during which the Haudenosaunee celebrate the White Corn reaching its “sweet corn” stage of growth. Though the recipes have become bolder, featuring chorizo sausage or hot sauce, it’s still typical for the dish to be paired with a slice of Indian fry bread. Now with three young kids of her own, 25-year-old Porter is continuing with Native traditions and passing on her family’s unwritten recipe — though she prefers a heftier helping of corn. “I am traditional in the sense that I want to continue doing things that my grandparents did, my mother did, everyone before me,” Porter says. “And I want to teach my kids this skill.”
Kernels of Hope Despite the cultural significance of Iroquois White Corn, indigenous consumption of the heirloom variety has been diminishing throughout the last century. Rather than being a staple of the Haudenosaunee diet, the corn has increasingly been eaten less frequently and reserved for certain ceremonial events. The Iroquois White Corn Project is working to reverse this trend. The nonprofit grows, processes and sells White Corn in an attempt to reclaim the grain’s roots and bolster traditional food knowledge among both Native farmers and consumers. At the original site of Ganondagan, the organization hand-plants White Corn seeds using traditional methods, grows the corn without pesticides and picks the crop by hand. Following a lye bath and a dehydration process, the White Corn is sold directly to individuals and through wholesalers in three varieties — hulled, roasted corn flour and White Corn flour. The Project also purchases White Corn from Haudenosaunee farmers, creating a stable market that encourages farmers to increase their corn production each year. Through its efforts, the Iroquois White Corn Project forges new avenues for indigenous people to access the long-established slow food movement, promoting greater consumption and perhaps mitigating the effects of the pervasive diabetes epidemic among Native people. All proceeds support Friends of Ganondagan, an organization that offers educational and cultural programs at the town’s historic site, giving back to the community at the heart of Iroquois White Corn’s history. spring 2018 | 51
Syracuse's Golden Ticket
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For the chef behind Syracuse’s Filipino-fusion restaurant, no pipe dream is too far out of reach. Story by Tess Berger Photos by Qian Zhu
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hen Azella Alvarez first launched Oompa Loompyas in 2014, she was frying up Filipino ground beef-filled egg rolls called lumpias and serving them alongside Syracuse food truck vendors. But unlike her fellow mobile restauranteurs, Alvarez wasn’t operating her business out of a cramped truck — she was working from a canopy tent. “I was the only caterer that didn't have a food truck, but I was tagging along with all the food trucks ‘cause I felt that there was no barrier,” Alvarez says. “I put a tent up, and I was just like, ‘Let's do this! I got it.’” Since then, Alvarez, a first-generation Filipino-American, has moved her business out from underneath a tent and into a quaint storefront on Burnet Avenue. There in her restaurant, Alvarez proudly shares fusion cuisine that pays homage to her own family recipes while embracing the American dishes she has grown to love. From spinach artichoke lumpias to burgers nestled on traditional Filipino buns, Alvarez seamlessly
melds her complex cultural flavors. “It was always instilled in me to want to cook,” Alvarez says. She grew up in San Diego, where her mom divvied up her time baking and managing a bus terminal. At the terminal, she began to notice the travelers’ demand for snacks. “My mom started bringing in her pastries. So we were making these out of our house, and I was alongside, 8 years old, buttering my mom's buns, sugaring them up,” Alvarez says. “We had like an assembly line.” From her childhood sous chef days to becoming the owner of Oompa Loompyas, Alvarez has always admired her mother’s knack for cooking and baking. “She’s like a wizard at what she does, and we never learned the technical part of it, we just watched her,” Alvarez says. “And it happened every day. We based everything around food.” While Alvarez hopes to one day sell her mother’s award-winning pastries — her orange chiffon cake won the Pillsbury Bake-Off Contest — she’s changing up the menu, adding at least two more lumpia variations: a dessert variety and another fusion. She also plans to debut a new lumpia flavor at this June’s Taste of Syracuse festival, her fifth time as a vendor. Alvarez is set on transitioning back into the food truck scene down the road — sans tent this time. “So food truck's in the works, and the long-term goal is to be the first U.S. Filipino American to develop and distribute lumpia [in grocery stores] in the U.S. That's the ultimate goal. It's a big dream, but I think I can do it.” spring 2018 | 53
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t’s hot. Humid-hot. The air feels heavy around you, and you’re sweating through your new digs. A beer sounds nice. Those bubbles that lift off your tongue are all your body wants right now. Well, that and A/C. But we bet you want something a little stronger than a drink with a wimpy 5 percent alcohol content. We at Baked have created some craveable sparkling cocktails for you. Side Note: These recipes can all be made into pitchers by doubling or tripling (or even quadrupling!) each recipe. Simply mix all of the ingredients in a punch bowl or pitcher instead of using a cocktail shaker.
Get Fizzy with It These cocktails will have you feelin’ bubbly. Story by Lee Musho Photos by Katie Tsai
The Rum Roaster Makes 4 drinks Lay 1 ripe pineapple, diced, and 3 lemons, sliced, on a baking sheet. Bake at 450 degrees for 20 – 30 minutes until the edges are golden brown. Let cool. For the paprika salt, mix 2 Tbsps. salt and 2 Tbsps. smoked paprika in a shallow dish. Swipe an extra lemon slice around the rims of your glasses and dip the rims in paprika salt. To make one drink, muddle a cup of the pineapple chunks and lemon slices in a cocktail shaker. Add a shot of white rum and 2 drops of honey. Shake with ice until the shaker becomes frosty. Pour into a rimmed glass and top with prosecco. Repeat for remaining drinks. Out for Blood Makes 4 drinks To make one drink, muddle half a blood orange and half a sprig of rosemary in a cocktail shaker. Add a shot of gin and a drop of honey. Shake with ice until the shaker becomes frosty. Pour into a glass and top with prosecco. Repeat for remaining drinks. Spiced & Spritzy Makes 6 drinks Combine 2 jalapeños, seeds and whites removed, and 6 shots of vodka, in a jar. Let jalapeño-infused vodka sit for a few hours and up to a day. To make one drink, muddle a few slices of cucumber and two sprigs of mint in a cocktail shaker. Add a shot of the jalapeño-infused vodka and 4 drops of honey. Shake with ice until the shaker becomes frosty. Pour into a glass and top with prosecco. Repeat for remaining drinks.
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