ATHLEISURE MAG #90 JUNE ISSUE | THE PROCESS Chef Charlie Mitchell

We're always looking for an extraordinary restaurant especially when we're able to combine an amazing menu, with a team, and also an experience, ambiance and a story that makes you want to come back and to continue to support it whether it's in your neighborhood or an area of town that you enjoy visiting!

We caught up with Chef Charlie Mitchell who is the Executive Chef/Partner of Clover Hill in Brooklyn and just won the Michelin 2022 NYC Young Chef Award Winner as well as is a James Beard Finalist 2023! These awards are amazing to be recognized for a life of dedication and focus. We wanted to find out about how he fell in love with food, decided to work in this field, his culinary journey, and how he continues to share his vision through Clover Hill. We also have the opportunity to chat about he approaches his culinary style as we get his chef insights which allows us to think about how the foods that we eat and the intentions behind the menus we enjoy.

ATHLEISURE MAG: When did you fall in love with food?

CHEF CHARLIE MITCHELL: Um, I would say a long time ago when I was a kid to be honest. I tell this story all the time, but I just grew up around food and I grew up with a family that just cooked for any and every reason whether it was good or bad, you know what I mean? It wasn’t hard to fall in love with food when you saw it and were around it so much and to see how important it was to everybody.

AM: What was the moment that you real- ized that you wanted to work in this industry and to be a chef?

CHEF CM: A chef, I would say somewhere in high school, you know. I just cooked. I think that I wasn’t the most career oriented kid to be honest in high school right? I think that I wasn’t even thinking about it until maybe I got to that Junior year in high school and you’re kind of like, “let me figure out what I want to do.” And I think that because I was getting older at that point – I wouldn’t say that I was cooking anything serious or anything, but I knew that it was something that I loved to do when I was not in class at school. So I thought that I could do this for a living. You know, I was watching a lot of Food Network.

AM: Oh yeah!

CHEF CM: Yeah, Food Network and stuff like that. I mean it sounds corny now but Iron Chef was that one show that I would just say, “wow, this looks like some serious cheffing,” you know what I mean? When I would watch that show, I would say, “yeah, I want to do something like that.” But I had no idea how to be a chef at that time.

AM: What was your culinary journey in kitchens that you trained in on the way to coming to Clover Hill?

CHEF CM: I mean, it wasn’t a very typical journey at times, there were times where it was a little rocky. My first 3 years of cooking, I would say my foundation was in Detroit. My first cheffing at my first restaurant that I worked in I would say is where I got the most training. It was a lot of hours, a lot of cooking, a lot of on the job training, a lot of raw cooking techniques and then I moved to NYC to try to work in more fine dining kitchens in a bigger market and that’s why I came here. And that’s what I got. I was working at places like Betony and Eleven Madison Park and even in DC for places like Bresca and Jônt, those were like the most refined jobs that I had and that kind of shaped the way that I knew how I wanted to go about my approach to food. I mean, it has been about 10 years this year now.

AM: How do you define your style of cooking?

CHEF CM: I’m not really sure, I’m still figuring that out. I always say that I think that it takes chefs 20 years to really define their cooking style for great chefs. I look at myself and I consider me to be halfway. So right now, my focus on my style of cooking is to focus on the ingredients that we are using. Sourcing great products, great ingredients, caring about whether what we’re using is sustainable or not, who is growing our vegetables, and then from there, I like to focus on some techniques that some people may consider to be old school or very raw techniques. I like to make sure that the food feels like you are being cooked for, you know what I’m saying? We still cook our proteins from raw and we make sure that all our sauces are ac-

tually hot, we care about those things like a person would care more for if they were at home, than if they were in a restaurant. If I had to sum it up, I would say that my cooking style is right now, a little raw and there is a lot of intuitive cooking. I cook the way that I want to eat!

AM: Which is a good place to start!

CHEF CM: Yeah, exactly!

AM: Well, you’re the Executive Chef/Partner of Clover Hill in Brooklyn. How did this come about?

CHEF CM: Well actually, so, Clover Hill, I was intro’d to Clover Hill when they first opened in 2019 because the original chef was a friend of mine. So I was actually introduced to the restaurant because I was in a transition and he was opening his restaurant and they needed some hands, some kitchen help. So I was around part- time/full-time working there 4 days a week for him and the COVID happened. So that was my introduction to Clover Hill and then time goes by and when the ownership was looking to reopen it, ironically, I had just moved back to NYC and they - Clay Castillo just randomly texted me and asked me what I was up to. I was standing there with my now fiancé and I was like, “yo, the owners of Clover Hill just texted me out of nowhere.” She was like, “okay, see what’s up.” So, maybe it was a day later or a week later, but we had coffee and we saw that our visions just aligned. With me being somebody that was in transition and him obviously going through it with having to close his restaurant due to COVID, he was very inspired to not give up. That was his message and I was in the same place and kind of young and kind of hungry and we just decided that we would go for it. Honestly, it was a very organic situation where he was in this position, I was in this position, and we had to figure it out together and that’s what we decided to do.

AM: Tell us about Clover Hill, what can people expect in terms of the ambiance of the restaurant as well as the menu itself?

CHEF CM: I think that the goal of the ambiance is that Clay will say this, to feel like home. It's a very homey approach which I know that that sounds cliché sometimes, but we look at it that way from the envi -

ronment to the hospitality. It’s not just the décor, it’s about how you’re treated when you’re there as well. It’s to try to strip away some of the pretentious stereotypes of fine dining. We want people to feel comfortable which is what we mean by that, to feel accepted, and to be at a place where you can vibe, you can laugh, you can talk as opposed to some fine dining restaurants where you’re so intimidated that when you walk in, you see that it’s so bright and the tablecloths are everywhere -

AM: Which fork am I using first?

CHEF CM: Right! And you’re worried about your outfit and stuff like that. So we want to strip all of that away and make it about the food, the wine, and the service. The food has evolved as our price point has evolved. But it has always been very seafood focused as well as vegetables – so seafood first, vegetables second. You’ll see a little bit of meat here and there, so that is the primary focus of the cuisine. As far as what it always is, we change the menu 4 times a year. We do complete menu overhauls, but I use the food as well as Clover Hill as a means to further my growth, the restaurants growth and the other cooks as well. The food changes menu to menu, but it’s always very rooted in seafood, vegetables, and flavors that you know people either love or hate – it’s very seasoned food. The idea of it also being at home too is that, this is something that we pride ourselves on. Food is something that makes you feel like someone cooked it for you. It needs to have a sense of nostalgia to it, and it needs to have a sense of warmth to the food in every dish. So if it’s not delicious and it doesn’t remind you of something, if it doesn’t kind of bring you back to a place – then it kind of doesn’t work. So that’s in the DNA of the food.

AM: Congratulations on being the 2022 Michelin Guide Young Chef Award Win- ner and the first Black Michelin chef in NY which blows our minds even moreso that you are only the second Black chef in the US to do this! Honestly, we kept double checking ourselves in prep for this interview with you because we were shocked that it has been so few, but there we are! What does it feel like to win this award and in terms of representation, being sentation, being able to have this distinction for yourself as well as for the restaurant that you are at?

CHEF CM: Well winning the award, to be honest, the Young Chef Award I had only heard about a day or 2 before the awards. I had never heard about it before. And then when I won, it was a complete surprise! I was just humbled and honored, mainly because so many of my peers and chefs that I look up to were also standing in this room and seeing me at that moment, so I just felt like that was just fucking cool to be honest! I mean to have all of those chefs looking at me when I was on that stage, that was just cool! For the Michelin Star too, me and Clay, I mean the whole team, but for us and the ownership, it was just like, what they went through with COVID and then closing down and then where I was at at that time and then kind of being in a position where I wasn’t sure what my next move was going to be. Just to see us put the work in for that year and a half, that validation and that visibility pushes everything. It means that what we’re doing is working and that the right people were seeing us, so that was awesome!

For me as a Black chef, that was also like a cherry on top, you know what I mean? It’s not like you’re looking to be the first or second of anything, it just kind of happens. But for me, it was kind of learning how to embrace it. Chefs and Black chefs that are older than me are looking at me like, “man, we did it!” Chefs that are younger than me are like, “how can I do it?” I’m just trying to learn how to embrace it and to be a resource which I think is the most important. Maybe it’s not full blown conversations or full blown FaceTime sessions with chefs, but it’s just about being available and a resource for questions or encouragement or just being somebody that they can see doing it so that they can do it! I mean winning it is great, the representation is great, and I’m honored to be someone to represent us in any kind of capacity that is in a positive way!

AM: Exactly!

To follow that up, to be a James Beard Fi- nalist, that’s another one of those things that is so much of an honor. What does it mean to you to have this distinction also in terms of the recognition?

CHEF CM: I mean, it was great! I think that any chef that takes themselves seriously on any level whether it’s casual, fine dining, food trucks, or whatever – you take it serious. You put in a lot of work that goes into it, a lot of hours goes into it, and I think that some people may look at the last year and a half/ two years of my journey and say, “ oh, it’s been so great – how does it feel?” For me, it felt like, finally! I’ve been doing this for all this time –

AM: So long!

CHEF CM: Yeah and it’s just the beginning. Some people don’t realize how many hours and how much time you put into something. So it’s just nice to be validated in any capacity – here’s this kid that’s at this restaurant that’s doing something that’s cool and good, had a good product, and they’re happy that I’m doing it. It’s encouraging – it encour- ages me to keep going. It encourages me to keep working as hard as we do. So that’s what it means the most to me.

AM: What I really love on your Instagram is that you talk about a lot of things. You talk about menu development and a number of nuts and bolts topics in the kitchen. For our readers that don’t know, what is menu development, what does it involve, and why is it so important?

CHEF CM: Well it’s hard! The reason why I share it is because – it’s been a new thing that I have been wanting to share because I think that some people have a misconception about how easy it is. I think that for me and having a small team, it’s just me. So it’s not like, oh does this taste good? It’s like, is it part of the vision, is it a part of who we are, is it on brand, and does it fit within our ethos? If we go here, where do we go from here? To constantly challenge yourself and your own ideas, it’s hard, you know what I mean?

AM: We love that you share it though, because, when people are thinking of a chef, they think of the restaurant and that there are partners and staff, but they don’t think about the hours, 14 hour days and these little things that you’re putting together to make a full picture. I think it’s awesome that you show it!

CHEF CM: Yeah!

I think that menu development is even something that I am just learning. I look at chefs that have been doing this for years! I reach out to them for advice and to see how they go about it. I think that the most important part about it is to just be curious about what you do, to be curious about food, and to continue to learn about food. I think that the hardest part of it is to continue to challenge yourself. Whether it’s your own ideas or old techniques that you have done before, and to not be too attached to a notion like, “we’re going to always cook the fish this way.” There may be a better way and you’re just going to need to be open minded to the journey of exploring, you know?

AM: Well, it’s interesting that you had a post recently that it is important to you that all of your dishes fall into your core values of good eats. What do you mean by that and what are those core values?

CHEF CM: When I worked at Eleven Madison Park, like Daniel Humm was kind of known for having 4 or 5 things that a dish had to have to fit in these boxes, which they don’t have to have – but that’s what he liked to say. For me, I am developing my own things for myself. So what I mean by that is – is it possible for a dish to go out as intended which is important. Is it meant to be cold – can it go out cold, is it meant to always go out hot? Some dishes, which sounds simple, but there are other factors with those dishes that we have to figure out in fine dining where you would know that it is not executable at this level. So being intentional is very important. Obviously, being very delicious is the most important. Is it visually appealing, but not to sacrifice if it is delicious or intentional, right? From there it’s, how does it make somebody feel inside when they eat it? Is it too spicy or spicy enough? Is it warm? Is it nostalgia? Is it a little thought provoking? Does it draw their memory? Those are the kinds of things that I focus on the most right now.

AM: What is an average day like for you at Clover Hill?

CHEF CM: Well it has changed so much now, I think that life now versus the first 8 months are so different that I feel like I should tell the story of how it was in the

beginning! But right now, it’s different. The learning curve right now is for me to learn to be an Executive Chef. That’s also what I want people to realize is that I teach my cooks that each level is a dif- ferent learning curve. You’re a line cook, you’re a CDP, you’re a sous chef, you’re an Executive Sous Chef, you’re a CDC Executive Chef right, so now I’m like learning how to fall back a little bit and care about other things that I don’t know about. So right now, my day to day is still 12-14 hours but less cooking, more guiding, more teaching, more meetings with the managers and the ownership. We’re looking at how are we pushing this restaurant forward as far as cleanliness, design, organization, new plateware, new development, menu costing – for lack of a better word – visionary things.

AM: Yeah dealing with nuts and bolts of the business.

CHEF CM: As opposed to last year, I had less staff, I didn’t have a sous chef at the time. I was just cooking and keeping my head down and now I’m in the mode of focusing and actually running this restaurant as opposed to just working in the restaurant. Usually, the cooks' days start around 10 or 11am and they work until around midnight. My day starts around the same time and I work until around midnight/1am and then I do it all over again. The cooks right now, ev- eryone on the staff, they work 4 days a week. I work a 5 day shift, they work a 4 day shift. I think that that’s a way that we try to give them a better live/work balance. Like you may work 4 long days, but you have 3 days off.

AM: Which is nice.

CHEF CM: Yeah it’s nice because it keeps you in that 40-50/hour range instead of that 60-70 hour range. So that’s what we’re trying to do right now. I know how mentally taxing that this job can be and I just want them to be able to be there when they are at work and to do the things that I need them to do. Then, they have enough time that they will be able to do what they need to do when they’re not here.

AM: After a night at work, what’s a meal that you like to cook for yourself when you’re at home?

CHEF CM: Nothing haha, I order takeout. To be honest, I’m a better eater at home now because I have Michelle to help me out without. I’m very simple. I like to eat very light at the end of the night for the most part. Just because, you’re about to go to sleep. So something like a protein, rice, and vegetables are my favorite things to eat.

AM: What are your go-to ingredients or spices that you always have in your pantry at home that are so versatile for you to make a number of dishes when you do decide to cook at home.

CHEF CM: Butter, garlic, and lemon. That can make anything taste good and then a cabinet full of spices. Anything from salt and pepper to curry spices, paprika, cayenne pepper, and all of that kind of stuff. But if you have butter, garlic, and lemon you can make anything taste good.

AM: When you’re not in the kitchen and you have time off, how do you take time for yourself in terms of self-care?

CHEF CM: Traditionally, I try to be as ac- tive as I can. I try to run, I try to workout. It also depends because sometimes the work week can get crazy and then I try to relax, spend time with mainly just me and Michelle hanging out all of the time to be honest. We just have to figure out days where we can sit on the couch for 8 hours. But in a perfect world, if I can just work out, recharge and watch some TV or something that’s great. As opposed to before where it was all about food 24/7. On the weekends, it was all about cookbooks and then I would go back to work. But now, I try to pull back from it all sometimes to just relax.

AM: That shows maturity where you give that balance to yourself just like you do to your chefs that you give 3 days off!

Do you have any upcoming projects that we should keep an eye out for. I know that last year, you were part of Chef Kwame Onwuachi’s Family Reunion which must have been an amazing time. Will you be doing any other events like that this year?

CHEF CM: Um, I don’t know. Hopefully. I think that the Family Reunion one we missed out on this year because we just didn't have time for it on the schedule this year. I know that we’re doing some char- ity events in October, we’re doing this Michelin event in Sept called Euphoria which will be pretty cool. Besides that we’re keeping it pretty low key. We’re just trying to figure it out and summer gets pretty light in the city and especially in our area of Brooklyn. So we try to figure out ways to stay busy and to put some things together.

AM: What do you want your legacy to be? You have done so many different things, you have gotten so many different accolades, and yet you have such a bigger road of the things that you can achieve. What do you want that to be seen as?

CHEF CM: I think that cooking is one of those things that is a passion driven career. We get into this because we love cooking and we have a passion about it. I love it and unfortunately, I love restaurants. That’s what I chose, I didn’t go out for private, catering, or anything like that. So for me, it’s about that I want to be known as the best chef foodwise and one of the best chefs to work for and/ or with. I want to make sure that I’m a good leader and a good boss and a good employer for my people. Hopefully I’m one of those well known serious chefs that is one of the best known chefs in NYC and one of the best known chefs in the country!

IG @chuckgood

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | PG 86 Clay Williams | PG 88 - 94 Natalie Black |