AsiaLIFE Vietnam September 2015

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AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 90


Why we love

individuality

Energized Engaged Empowered

Because at ISHCMC we understand that the freedom to be unique empowers our students to discover their passions. Today’s students need to do more than memorize information in traditional classrooms. They need a more evolved approach to education that allows them the freedom to pursue their passions fearlessly. In addition to a strong academic foundation, they need opportunities to be creative, innovative and analytical, all of which lie at the heart of the ISHCMC philosophy.

Come and see the difference we can make in your child’s life.

A fully accredited IB World School, authorized to teach all 3 programs of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students ages 2 – 18 years. 28 Vo Truong Toan, District 2 Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (8) 3898-9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.ishcmc.com

Samatha, ISHCMC Student Grade 6



CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

SEPTEMBER 2015

VOLUME 90

This Month's Cover Photography: Jonny Edbrooke

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

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www. A s i a L i f e M a g a z i n e .com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director

Art Director

Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director

Deputy Editor

Trang Bui trangbui@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor

Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Lorcan Lovett lorcan@asialifemagazine.com Style Editor

Vinh Dao photoeditor@asialifemagazine.com

Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

Nguyen Hanh Trinh trinh.nguyen@asialifehcmc.com

F OO D & D R I N K

EVENTS . . .............................................................. 0 4 TOP 5: live music . . .......................................... 1 0 Q &A Nicole Hankins ....................................................... 1 4

Bia craft

PHOTO ESSAY

B.O.C. Barbeque

C ov e r Sto ry Frontiers of comedy

Vietnam’s emerging stand up scene .......................... 2 0

F e at u r e s river of life

Cleaning up Saigon’ canals ....................................... 2 6

Unrequited Lies

Creating a social media persona . . ............................ 2 8

Kieu Khanh Toan khanhtoan@asialifehcmc.com

Administrator

Front

Fish Sauce ............................................................... 1 6

Sales Assistant

Craft beer comes to D2.......................................... 4 0

stoker woodfired grill

Serious steak .. ......................................................... 4 1 American style smokehouse. . ................................... 4 2

circus kitchen

All you can eat . . ...................................................... 4 3

S TYLE & D E S I G N Another’s treasure Fashion4Freedom . . .............................................. 4 4

Sita raiter

Poised Proportions ................................................. 4 6

C OLU M N S

Brave New World

IMBIBE ............................................................................. 5 4

Big business

FITNESS .......................................................................... 5 8

New school, new country........................................ 3 0 Vietnam’s new free trade deals ............................... 3 2

health & wellness

Killer stomach bug. . .................................................. 3 4

T r av e l

LOCAL EATS ............................................................... 5 6 Education Hub .................................................... 6 2 HOME IMPROVEMENT .......................................... 6 4 Personal Finance ............................................. 6 5 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 6 6

Reverie saigon

FASHION field notes ........................................ 6 8

In deep

NGO Focus ............................................................... 7 7

City’s only 6-star hotel ............................................ 3 6 Scuba diving in Nha Trang ....................................... 3 8 4 asialife HCMC

Sub-topical heat ................................................ 7 6



events

5 SEP, 7pm

M2 – Marketing & Media Network @Hard Rock Cafe Entry: Prepaid VND250,000 / Door VND300,000

Facebook.com/M2Event

Saigon Urban Flea Market @Saigon Outcast Entry:VND20.000

Get ready for the sunset views while you shop under the stars at this open air event.You can even dance while you shop. Facebook.com/SaigonOutcast

We Are Legend @Cargo Bar Entry:VND100.000

Debit of music film ‘We are Legend’ followed by a party promoting a rock show which is set to take place in Saigon, Da Nang and Hanoi. Facebook.com/CargoSaigon

THE MIST @Saigon Opera House Entry:VND504.000

Directed by Tan Loc, The Mist, or Suong Som, is a dance spectacular that tells the story of rural life across seven scenes, all backed by live instruments. AoShowSaigon.com

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9 SEP, 6 –8.30pm 6 SEP, 2Pm–9pm 1–31 SEP, 6Pm–8pm



events

AmCham Palooza Party @The Long Bar Entry:VND150,000 / Free for members

The global tycoon and Virgin Group founder shares the stage with world class speakers for a series of inspirational business talks. MoveViet.com

Richard Branson @Phu Tho Indoor Stadium Entry:VND500,000

This monthly party is a platform to develop new friendships, networking opportunities and information exchange. AmChamVietnam.com

THE LOST ART @DeciBel Entry: Free Saigon-based band of expats from the UK, Japan and the US play an acoustic session Decibel.vn

Nick Monaco @Observatory

Entry:VND100,000 / Free before 11pm Enigmatic DJ Nick Monaco incorporates an immense range of styles in his famously expressive and honest sets. Facebook.com/TheObservatoryHcmc

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12–13 SEP, 9Am–7PM 10 SEP, 10pm–late

23 SEP, 6pm–8.30pm 11 SEP, 8pm


24 SEP, 7pm–2AM

Hip Hop Take Down @Chill Sky Bar Entry: Free A night of hiphop plus a big dance off involving many upcoming movers and shakers.

ChillSaigon.com

27 SEP, 7.30Am–12am

Kim Co solo exhibition @DeciBel Entry: Free

BBGV 15th Annual Fun Run for Charity @Phu My Hung Entry: VND150,000

One of the city’s biggest charity sporting events of the year hopes to raise VND 1billion for charitable projects in Vietnam. Bbgv.org

DJ master with residencies in New York and Tokyo returns to Saigon to provide people with a vinyl-based audio journey like no other. Facebook.com/TheObservatoryHcmc

Alex from Tokyo @Observatory Entry:VND150,000 / Free before 11pm

27 SEP, 7Am

19-year-old artist Kim Co shows her drawings and paintings, inspired by 80s and 90s pop culture. Decibel.vn

26 Sep, 10pm–late

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Top 5

LIVE MUSIC Lorcan L ovett re v ie ws som e of t he b e st liv e m usic v e nue s Saigon has t o offe r. Phot os by Vin h DAo.

There are certain nights friends can reminisce about for years, and many of these usually start with screeching audio feedback, jittery crowds slowly shuffling off their seats, and then an explosion on the dance floor, as a mind-blowing band plays like their instruments are on fire. Of course, it’s not all about mosh pits and rock: plenty of special memories are created by solo acoustic acts, or the rapturous sound of a vocal harmony. Luckily enough, Saigon has a sprinkling of venues, some well-known and others not so, that host a great range of performers, so, whether you prefer headbanging between sweaty walls or gently swaying to soft folk, get out there now and experience the magic of live music.

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Rock Fan Club

25C Tu Xuong, District 3 08 62 907 489, RockFanClub.org, 6.30pm — 12.30am, Mon to Sun

Yoko

2a Nguyen Thi Dieu, District 3 08 39 330 577, Facebook.com/YokoBar, 6pm — 12am, Tue to Thu Managed by Minh Tu, aka Louis Vang, and owned by his parents, Yoko plays everything from rock’n’roll to jazz, blues and funk. To keep up with the trends, it also puts on special nights including hip hop, heavy metal, or whatever those cool hipsters have blaring from their headphones these days. “We try to bring the soul of the music to share with all people,” says Vang. “And we hope all our customers enjoy themselves the first time they step into Yoko which is why we have ‘United We Rock’ as our slogan.” The venue usually hosts acoustic musicians from Tuesday to Thursday and saves the rock for the weekend. Keep an eye on its Facebook page for upcoming acts, many of whom are Vietnamese crowd favourites.

WoodStock

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, District 3 08 39 304 075, MetallicBar.VnNavi.com.vn/en, 9pm — 12am, Tue to Sun This venue has been known to host singers from The Voice Vietnam and X Factor, but don’t worry; non-talent show acts are far more common on its stage. Local bands such as Microwave, XMB Band, and Tornado are all regulars while an eclectic crowd sit and dance around, enjoying Woodstock’s vibrant atmosphere and colourful decor. There’s also a house band with a rotating line up of singers to keep things flowing, and if they don’t catch your interest then gawp at the plethora of colours beaming from the lighting system.

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Saigon Ranger

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, District 1 09 12 883 006, SaigonRangerBar.com, 6pm — 1am, Tue to Sun Ranger always has something going on late into the evening, and fortunately, its location, tucked down an alleyway, is surrounded by plenty of good pre-band bars. The venue attracts a healthy mix of locals and expats who come to check out the odd art exhibition, workshop, or the music, which ranges from dub to acoustic and includes touring bands and local acts. When a good band performs, the crowd edges its way off the tables and on to the dance floor, sparking a great atmosphere throughout the place. Don’t go there too early on its Sunday karaoke nights, however, as there’s likely to be one lonely figure hunched over several empty glasses, as another lone wolf performs to the empty tables. Then again, you might like that.

La Fenetre Soleil

44 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 08 38 245 994, LaFenetresoleil.com, 10am — 12pm, Mon to Sun It’s the only traditional Indonesian restaurant in Saigon that turns into a night club after 9pm, not that there’s much competition in that particular category. Customers popping in for lunch are treated to mid day performances from pianists and those visiting at night can expect musicians playing salsa, jazz, country music, rap and soul, or whatever else may be planned. The exposed brick, antique furniture, and large windows, overlooking green streets, give the place an atmospheric feel, suited for chinking glasses across a thick, smoky haze to piano music. La Fenetre Soleil, which means ‘window to the sun’, has decor and artists that set it apart from other live music spots in the city. Free up a lunch or evening to check out the venue and it just may become your new favourite spot..


Nicole Hankins Your family moved to France when you were young, how did that experience shape your life?

My family moved to Paris in 1970 where I was raised before moving to the US where my entire family currently lives. I came from a big family of seven girls and we are very close in age and spirit to this day. My parents were already well traveled, since they were educated in French boarding schools. But leaving my grand parents and family behind was devastating for them. 14 asialife HCMC

They taught us the value of family and kept as much of the Vietnamese culture in our lives as possible. I went to an all girls school and was required to participate in sports every day after school where I developed an affinity for fitness and team sports I have to this day. France is renowned for its cuisine, is that where your interest in food and nutrition originated?

Indeed, living in Paris allowed my taste

buds to thrive and appreciate good food. I had the responsibility of going to the local bakery and bringing back baguettes and fresh baked goods for the family. Without fail, half the baguette and croissants were eaten by the time I reached home! It was never planned that my personal food interest would one day serve my professional vocation. But once college was behind me where I studied finance, I started looking into nutrition out of curiosity. I took cooking classes, nutrition classes, studied


Since establishing Nutrifort Fitness in 2003, Nicole Hankins has helped drive the explosion of fitness culture in Vietnam. She talks to Brett Davis about changing attitudes to health and nutrition, and her personal journey back to the country of her birth. Photo by Vinh Dao.

nutraceuticals and the science of functional foods and started working in the field of formulation for food companies. When the boom of protein bars, cereal/granola bars, weight loss supplements hit the US, I consulted for the largest health food companies and helped them create and mass produce these food products. What motivated you to return to Vietnam?

I was asked by a company I was consulting for to help them formulate protein and nutraceutical powders for the market in Vietnam. My first trip back was in 1997 to work. My mother tongue failed me miserably since I only understood 30 percent of it, but the food, the scents, the people were my heritage. I never felt more foreign than when I came here, but never felt more Vietnamese when I left a month later. My father was horrified when I first told him I was considering taking a job here: “Do you know how much sacrifice, time and money I spent to get you out? And now you want to go back there?” I waited until he passed, and after a painful divorce, I decided to change scenery and start a new adventure. I saw an opportunity in Vietnam to do something I am passionate about, to teach, to make a difference, and if nothing else, it would look good on my next resume!

mind of one person, especially the youth, then I’ve done my job well.

difficult to eat healthily, is that a misconcepWhat effect do you think the ‘Westernisation’, particularly fast food, of Vietnamese diets is having?

In one word: disaster! Especially for the millennial generation. The onset of disease like obesity, diabetes, cholesterol, heart disease will hit them hard in the next five to 10 years. Especially since they move less here because of the heat. But even if people exercise, the harming effect of fast food because of the high calorie content but lack of nutrition will create a perfect platform for chronic illness. The sad thing is that in the West, fast food like the popular ones here, are often reserved for people who can’t afford a healthy meal because of limited budgets. But in Vietnam, they have been re-invented to target the more wealthy, educated people who have disposable income. The locals are hungry for any Western brands and recognition; they think it is a status symbol and shows success if they can afford to take the family to these establishments. Most of the really obese people in the West are usually low to middle class, but here it will be, and has started already, a rich man’s disease. Vietnam can be a less than ideal place for

Have you seen a change in local attitudes to-

expats in terms of lifestyle, what are some of

wards health and fitness in your time here?

the common problems you see?

Absolutely. When I started Nutrifort in 2003, we were the first company to introduce private training. Back then we would send our staff to all the hotel gyms to train clients who were mostly foreigners or wealthy Vietnamese. The only access to fitness for the locals were early morning or evening walks in the parks. Then when California Wow came to Vietnam, which I am really grateful they did, the fitness craze here began. More and more people are catching on and making it part of their lifestyle, but it is still not a priority. Most locals think if they are skinny, they don’t need to exercise. While westerners think that health and fitness go hand in hand, here fitness is reserved for the overweight. Yoga has become very popular because women here think if they lift a two kilo dumbbell, they will look like Arnold! Parents don’t encourage children to exercise because that’s time away from the academics, and it is not as important as getting a top grade in math. There are still a lot of misconceptions about fitness here, but at least interest is growing. If I can change the

People often think it is time consuming or

Over the years, I see the same patterns from expats. They usually gain a lot of weight in a short period of time. Their lifestyle usually changes overnight but it takes five to six months before they can adjust, so before they realise they need to adjust to the adjustments, it’s nine months into it. Changes I often hear are: “I use to walk a lot, but it’s too hot to do that here”; “I used to drive my kids to school then run errands, but now have a driver”, “I used to do chores around the house, but now have a maid”, “I used to cook, but now have Ms Hoa!” So they spend a lot of time being sedentary, working at the computer, and slowly the 10,000 steps that used to make up their day are reduced to 2,000 or so. But they still eat the same amount of food because, this is the normal amount they have been eating. The other common pit falls for men mostly, I see recurring is the excessive drinking in Vietnam. Because alcohol in social settings like bars and restaurants here is less expensive than their home countries, and provide a place to gather, laugh, comiserate, do business etcetera.

tion?

It is not difficult, but it does take a bit of planning. Like anything, once you plan for it, the outcome will be more successful. Food is no different! You know you have to eat lunch/dinner for the entire week, but you will be too busy to cook, then prepare for the meals on the weekend. You can also choose the food from healthy choices of restaurants ahead of time, if you don’t want to cook and have the number on speed dial. If you wait until you’re starving, your choices are impulsive, quick and usually unhealthy! I am busy too, for this is the reason I created the set meals menu from Monday to Friday from our good eats restaurant. It took me a year to prepare the menu, calculate the calories and choose and taste all the ingredients and food with our chef before we activated the program. Using all my nutritional knowledge and my appreciation for good “slow” food, we came up with this incredible menu that aims to please the palate and keep you healthy. In the process people are losing weight and finding the convenience unparalleled to anything they have tried! Each day we have a choice of two meals and we can deliver to Districts 1, 2 and 7. For VND 129,000 per meal you get a home cooked meal with entree, salad and juice! It’s been very successful since we launched it 10 months ago. Nutrifort fitness now has six locations, what do you think has been driving the explosion of gym culture in Vietnam?

Our success story has been a result from our commitment to service. Nutrifort has a real person behind the brand. I have put a lot of thought, and care into each and every product and service we sell. Before anything is sold to our customers I have tested it. From the staff, to trainers and instructors, to choice of classes, maintenance of facilities, to the food and beverages. Thankfully the people we partner ourselves with have recognised this value! The explosion is also due to the growth of many real estate projects that need to have a gym to stay in competition and attract tenants and buyers. Gyms and pools are amenities for these projects. Personally, I am grateful that I have been able to do the work I love, and set out to do when I came here. The best part is, I get to stay fit and eat well doing it. How lucky am I? asialife HCMC 15


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FISH SAUCE Vietnam consumes over 200 million litres of fish sauce per year. Vinh Dao takes a look into the production of the VND 7.5 trillion industry that helps feed a nation.

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On the Frontiers of Comedy Vietnam has plenty of humour, but stand-up comedy is yet to take off. Lorcan Lovett meets the handful of brave comics hoping to popularise the art and spread the chuckles. Photos by Vinh Dao.

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“You are at an amateur comedy show: it’s going to be terrible,” Steve Jackson, 32, half jokes to a couple, before dousing expectations at the next table in The Cube. A small, upstairs room at the bar in District 1 is crammed with a 50-strong crowd who have come here expecting to laugh; a simple but demanding ask, which Jackson and the rest of Stand Up Saigon hope to satisfy. Accept, as the adage goes, nothing is straightforward in Vietnam, especially while your standing in the glaring, unfamiliar spotlight, trying to tickle multiple nationalities who are divided by their tastes in humour, but united by the universal habit of judging a performer. Just as the jittery newbies take to the stage, the microphone fails. Stalling for time to fix the problem, Devin Monaghan, 26, implores the audience in his broad American accent to mingle without making each other laugh, because “that’s our job.” Fifteen minutes later, he’s back; this time to say the microphone will not work, and a night of bellowing out punchlines begins. Monaghan, whose mop of ginger, curly hair gives him a jovial look, appeals for any potential hecklers to keep quiet, considering they’re not professionals, before jibing at American legislation. “You can’t hold a full beer bottle but you can hold a loaded gun,” he shouts, and shortly after dubs customer service “the condom of capitalism.” The closest thing to a heckle are crackles from the sound system which interrupt every act, sometimes getting more laughs than the stand ups by throwing them off their material. Vietnam has about as much to do with stand up comedy as it does polar bears, so expats driving the scene have a tough job. Attitudes towards the art may be slowly turning, however; audience member Manh Hao, 20, an intelligent, aspiring comic with hair flowing down his back, is living proof. “I want to be like them,” he says, as the next person walks on stage. Hao learned much of his English from Cartoon Network. He’s a Millennial, a generation which has shunned more traditional media like newspapers and radio in favour of the internet; one which has had exposure to all 22 asialife HCMC

sorts of entertainment outside of Vietnam, including stand up comedy. He says the only professional Vietnamese stand up is a former talent show contestant called Dua Leo. Then the next act timidly steps up and mumbles through her set. People are biting their nails and drinks are being slugged down now. The following comic, another American, recovers the show and hands over to a Vietnamese man whose first instinct is to explain what types of jokes he’ll tell. The local closes his set with a pun about bestiality (cows) that wouldn’t be out of place in an X-rated Christmas cracker. The lights cut out and people illuminate the stage with their phones. Then only one light, startlingly bright, comes on above Hao’s table, giving him in almost messianic glow. There’s about nine acts all together: British, African, Vietnamese, Mexican, German, and American. Anticipating the next performance becomes addictive, like rolling a ball on the roulette wheel. It’s a warm-spirited event, with the organisers charging VND50,000 entry including a beer, essentially losing money themselves. So, what drives this audacious bunch to brave the chance of hearing crickets instead of laughs? “I used to be a telemarketer,” says Monaghan. “So the idea that a roomful of people would voluntarily sit and listen to me is too tempting to pass up.” It’s a few days after the show and Monaghan has joined Jackson for a coffee, along with Mick Noulty, 23, a blonde, fresh-faced teacher cum comic from Massachusetts, who moved to Saigon specifically for Saigon Stand Up (SUS). The group was founded by Jackson and Dan Murray, who has since left, in 2010. It has about 20 members aged 19 to 45, only two of whom are women, although they want to attract more. Jackson, a tall extrovert who retains the energy shown in his set, gained some previous experience in South Korea when he played characters like Raul, a washed up children’s entertainer, and a pious man complaining the gospel was not hard enough on people.


“So the idea that a roomful of people would voluntarily sit and listen to me is too tempting to pass up.�

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After arriving in Saigon, a series of open mic nights banned him because “they wanted people to do Adele covers,” he says. “Or shitty poetry,” Monaghan interjects. He launched SUS in Bernie’s Irish Pub (now The Dublin Gate) in District 1 and will leave it in the hands of Monaghan, because he’s going for a two-month stint at what he describes as a ‘fat camp’ in Thailand, after which he claims he’ll join a silent retreat for a month to meditate on his comedy. SUS’s ground rules include not purposefully offending an audience and having well-rehearsed material. Members offer four free workshops for those considering stand up. “We are more than willing to make their dream a reality,” says Jackson. “And help develop them to make sure they do not bomb first time on stage.” Noulty, the quietest of the three, pauses. “Everybody was really supportive but I bombed the first night,” he says. “I performed in front of an apathetic half of the room and a drunk half. “I bombed really hard and all those eyes I knew were on me. I forgot everything I was going to say and didn’t write anything down. “It sucks to bomb, especially in front of your friend group. All my friends were like ‘you did good, you did good’ and I was like ‘don’t do that, I know when I do well’.” Noulty admits the nerves are still there, although it helps to “go out of yourself” and the last show, an otherwise bumpy affair, did offer an advantage for the young performer: there were no lights on the majority of the audience, so he was staring into darkness rather than faces, and it seemed to work. “It felt like I did not perform in front of anyone,” he says with relief. “As soon as you are conscious of it, you are screwed. You start thinking what your lines are, your routine. The audience picks up on it and it’s a downward spiral.” There’s another pause. “206 days dry!” a sober Jackson yells, for the fourth time. The team agrees heckles are rare in their shows; they have a supportive following, but it does happen. “Some are friends,” says Monaghan, who laments audience members stealing his punchlines. “They do not know how to act at a comedy show. They would shout out an answer and then I would say my answer, which is the funny one. “If someone starts heckling, deal with them easy, then harder, then, thirdly, say they would sound smarter if they shut up.” Comics are not the only ones who can get agitated. Jackson talks about an episode in Bernies’s Irish Bar when a comic told the audience he had an imaginary pig, and then asked a person to kiss it. He turned the invisible swine around and asked that person to now kiss it on the mouth. 24 asialife HCMC

One woman refused, and, under the comic’s demands, she got upset while the audience whooped. “Doing it for the first time in front of an expat audience is different than in front of your own country men,” says Monaghan, who had stand-up experience in his hometown of Portland, Oregon. “They do not share anything in common, so it needs to be funny to humans, not just Americans. “But expats in general are interesting and weird. They just get it.” SUS has a camaraderie where members either commiserate or celebrate after every show. “We are all looking at each other, thinking we’re doing something amazing, doing comedy on the frontier of expat communities,” Monaghan says. And as for the rare Vietnamese comics, Jackson reiterates Hao’s suggestion: Dua Leo is the best, if not the only one. Dua Leo, 33, sits at Trung Nguyen coffee shop, lowering his spiky, well-gelled haircut momentarily to sip on green tea. “I want to be famous,” he says. “Look at me; I’m not handsome, I do not sing. The only thing I have is good humour and I can make people laugh; that is easy.” Leo crashed out of the second round of Vietnam’s Got Talent four years ago. He left on bad terms with the show because he says they edited it to make him “look dumb”. Still, Vietnam had never seen his kind before: a man holding a microphone, talking about life. Forward to 2015 and he has more than 270 thousand likes on Facebook collected over five years as a professional comic. Isn’t he famous already? “I’m kind of famous. Famous and kind of famous are two different things. When people see famous people on the street they go ape-shit crazy, but when you’re kind of famous they do a double-take and talk between their teeth (saying) ‘look at him,’ ‘oh it’s him’.” Leo says he’s the only professional stand up in Vietnam, where the variety show rules and people feel more comfortable with slap stick, cross dressing and a singsong than an observational rant. He says the old format needs shaking up because some younger people are searching for new forms of entertainment. “The younger generation praises me a lot, but the media takes me as some kind of vulgar actor who prays on dirty topics,” he says. “Sometimes I think I was born in the wrong country. There’s no stand up comedy here. Before I started there was nobody and I’m the one to bring it.” Leo does three 40-minute gigs a week in Vietnamese at coffee shops in Saigon. The audience aren’t boozed up to “maximise the laughs and minimise the damage,” he says. “In Vietnam (humour) is heavily cultural


and regional. But for me, everywhere I go, I’ve killed (a good thing in comedy). “I killed all the audience because my comedy is based on life. It’s not based on the place or the culture.” The comic was a victim of Agent Orange, causing one arm and hand to be smaller and lack more muscles than the other. He briefly mentions the handicap in his shows. “This is my hand,” he says, waving it. “In a way it has had an affect. Maybe it is much greater than I think. I knew I would have to be even greater. Maybe my hand is one of the reasons why I’m here today.” Leo represents the future of stand up in Vietnam, although he doesn’t intend to do it alone. “There will be a lot more stand ups because I will train them,” he says. “One of my plans is to open some kind of school for stand up comedy. “The rules are not hard, you just have to surprise people. There will be more stand up comedy like mine in the future. I do not mind competition. It is good for the overall and because I know I’m the best.” See SUS perform at: Youtube.com/user/AsiaLIFEmag

“If someone starts heckling, deal with them easy, then harder, then, thirdly, say they would sound smarter if they shut up”

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RIVER OF LIFE From economic lifelines to environmental disasters and back, Brett Davis explores the history of Saigon’s canals. Photo by Vinh Dao

I

n the late afternoon, the nature strip along the Nhieu Loc – Thi Nghe Canal in District 1 is bustling with couples taking a stroll or sitting on the benches which line the revitalised waterway, or getting in a workout on the many public exercise machines. The rather pleasant and bucolic scene was recently unthinkable, as only a few years ago the city’s canals were places people could not get far enough away from. Over the last 150 years these inner-city waterways have gone on quite a journey of their own. In his exhaustively researched book Exploring Ho Chi Minh City, historian Tim Doling details how in the 1860s, at the time of the French occupation of Vietnam, central Saigon was crisscrossed with a vast network of canals. These waterways were used by merchants to transport goods efficiently from the surrounding countryside to destinations within the city and to what was then the neighbouring settlement of Cho Lon (the western end of modern day District 5). At the time Saigon was home to only little more than 50,000 people, yet the canal system played an important part in the city being one of the key trading hubs for the French colony of Cochinchine. Modern residents of Saigon might be surprised to learn that some of the city’s best known streets were once all, or partly, waterways. The so-called ‘Grand Canal’ ran from the Saigon River along what is now the pedestrian-friendly Nguyen Hue Street. Much of Ham Nghi Street was a canal, known as the ‘Crocodile Bridge Canal’, stretching to roughly where it bisects with Pasteur Street. The lower reaches of Pasteur were also a waterway leading from Ben Nghe Creek (which separates Districts 1 and 4) to what is now Le Loi Street. From that point, the ‘Junction Canal’ ran north along Le Loi (and connecting to the ‘Grand Canal’), Cao Ba Quat and Nguyen Sieu streets before turning along Ngo Van Nam Street and emptying back into the

Saigon River. The demise of the canals in Saigon, however, was not long in coming after French colonisation. Concerned about the spread of tropical diseases, and complaints from the new European residents about the smell from the waterways due to their being used as a dumping ground for all kinds of refuse, saw them steadily filled in and turned into roads. Despite the initial intentions of the French colonial masters to retain the system of canals, the filling work started in 1863 with the ‘Junction Canal’. The last of them to go was the ‘Grand Canal’ which was filled in between 1887 and 1889 to allow for the extension of what was then called Boulevard Charner to the Saigon Riverfront. The canals in the Cho Lon area, where there were almost no European residents, lasted somewhat longer. The local residents were less concerned with the sanitary conditions and managed to keep most of the waterways for another 35 years before they, too, eventually succumbed. Yet some of the canals circling the city remained, and over the next hundred years as the city grew, became putrid, polluted scars on the growing metropolis’s landscape. The houses in these areas, not surprisingly, were almost entirely consigned to the city’s poorest residents. The Nhieu Loc – Thi Nghe Canal, once known simply as Thi Nghe Creek, was by the 1960s simply being referred to as Kinh Nuoc Den, or ‘Blackwater Canal’, such was the state it was in. Separating the northern edge of District 1 from Binh Thanh and Phu Nguong Districts before meandering through District 3, the canal flooded in the lightest of rainfalls and helped spread water-borne diseases such as typhoid, dysentery and cholera. By the mid-1980s, city officials could no longer ignore the issue, and set out to find a solution. It was to be the start of a long and tortuous process. Various ideas

were brought to the table over the years, including one proposal to build an elevated highway over the canal to reduce traffic congestions. In 1999, Boston-based engineering firm CDM Smith presented a feasibility study on the canal’s restoration using Japanese aid funding. Subsequent studies and reports were prepared as well as a resettlement action plan. In the end 7,000 households were relocated. Finally, in 2003 work began on an ambitious project to construct 70 kilometres of sewers, drains and other infrastructure to reduce flooding, and to rehabilitate the canal. Much of the funding came in the form of zero-interest loans from the World Bank, and the project was finally completed in 2012 with a price tag of almost half a billion dollars. Since then, upgrades have also been completed on the Tan Hoa – Lo Gom and Tau Hu – Benh Nghe Canals. These projects had similar funding from the World Bank, but came in with a much lower budget and in a much shorter time-frame. The economic and social benefits are not hard to see. At the official opening of the Tan Hoa – Lo Gom Canal in April this year, Vietnamese President Truong Tan Sang said: “Residents used to suffer from frequent inundation and serious pollution. Now, housing values increase, diseases are controlled, social welfare and public services are improved and the region’s face has changed significantly in a short time.” Efforts have also been made to replenish fish stocks in the canals, however the eagerness of recreational fishermen in the city is not particularly helping the matter. Fishing is discouraged but remains legal. Public awareness campaigns have also been conducted to implore residents not to use the waterways as a dumping ground. It has been an incredible effort to rehabilitate the city’s canals, and it can only be hoped new generations see the value of keeping them this way.

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The world of dating apps is swamped with dodgy pictures and outrageous claims, so an unfortunate self-summary can be a deal-breaker. Lorcan Lovett talks with daters to see what attracts and what alienates. Photos by Vinh Dao.

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he pictures are looking good. There’s one next to a motorbike in the jungle - ‘ooo adventurous’ - another reading a book - ‘aaa intellectual’ - and the pièce de résistance of the profile: a scantily-clad sunbathing session in Da Nang. Just before your finger swipes right, the mind says ‘stop this shallow nonsense, look at the bio’, and an uncomfortable truth is revealed as you scroll down: ‘the one’ is an idiot. The one hates animals, or has an arrogance unbeknown to humanity, or, worst of all, has a partner. Apps such as Tinder are omnipresent on the smartphones of Saigon daters, however many of them inadvertently spoil their chances with half-baked or fantastical selfdescriptions. Teacher Matt James, 33, reviewed his own strategies when ‘Work Hard, Play Harder’ was not achieving satisfactory results on Tinder. In a burst of eloquent wordplay, his bio now reads: ‘I enjoy going to raves when I’m not working, I can cook, and I’m fucking hilarious. I hope I don’t sound too much like Gordon Ramsey.’ “Gordon Ramsey is a hard worker, so that’s that base covered,” he says. “I like cooking and swearing and shouting in people’s faces, and I do enjoy going to raves.” James, who adds a few years onto his age on Tinder as bait for mature ladies, says his perfect bio would be his own. “I always read the bio,” he says. “It’s just a bit of extra information and you can know a bit more about who you are possibly going to bang. I’ve tried to tell the truth, but people say any old crap on their bios to try get their claws into a man. “I read some bios and it says ‘I’m not after a relationship’, and I think ‘yes’, and then ‘I’m not after any hook ups’, and

I think ‘yes’, and then it says ‘I’m quite happy with my boyfriend or husband’. “It’s just like ‘Why are you on Tinder? You’re an idiot, you do not understand what Tinder is about’.” Travel writer Thao Nghi, 26, started swiping a month ago but is yet to meet a Tinder date. She knows how to appreciate a good bio, especially the “funny and honest” variety, although she has opted for the swashbuckling approach of leaving hers blank. “I don’t want people to know clearly about my personal life,” she says. “I don’t feel safe if I do that. “Lucky for me, I have not seen any very bad bios yet, and the best ones have been about animal lovers; dog and cat lovers. “Through their bios, I can understand guys more and decide to like or ignore. I will stay away from guys who have bad bios so I don’t find problems for myself.” Nghi says if she were to have a bio, it would be a quote from science guru Stephen Hawking: ‘Quiet people have the loudest minds.’ Nghi is unlikely to be a match for teacher Kate Millar, 33, who has a novella-length bio and distaste for quotes. Also, both profiles are ‘men only’, so unless Tinder staff spiced things up by mixing preferences, it really wouldn’t happen. “I tend to not be interested in guys who have no bio,” says Millar. “I think the more information you have right off the bat, the better. I don’t have a lot of time. No inspirational quotes or no clichéd sayings. There’s a lot of those, like ‘you only live once’; you see that a lot. “I look for guys who don’t take themselves too seriously. If they talk about their interests, that’s good for me, because if I want to start the conversation I can. With the guys that have made it through the

vetting process to a date, there has been a spark of interest from the bio, right from the beginning.” Millar’s bio says she lives in Saigon, writes, studies Argentine tango while exploring the reasons behind this hobby, and apologises when she bumps into inanimate objects. She also talks about the time she fainted and ‘the guy from Bon Iver’ caught her. Millar says it draws men from across the board who are interested in dancing, music, or have a similar sense of humour. Tinder’s not the only dating app out there. Investor Nguyen An, 24, (not his real name) hopes to find the perfect man on OkCupid. His self-summary notes where he graduated, his profession, and the fact he has a tattoo. He also makes a high-brow joke for those clever bachelors. It reads: ‘Personality-wise, I’m an INFJ, but I appear an ISJT for business purposes, shhhh.’ “INFJ (introversion, intuition, feeling, judging) and ISTJ (introversion, sensing, thinking, judging) are personality types defined by the Myers-Briggs Type Indicator,” he explains. “So that people know what they are getting into and can see if we are really compatible. “It’s not really important. INFJ personality type is generally considered as ‘not good for business’ type. “I often look for the nerdy type of guy, so my profile pic features me with a bow tie, looking dapper. Moreover, Dr. Who and Bill Nye the Science Guy wear bow ties, and they are well-known among nerdy guys. So the profile is oriented to attract nerdy guys’ attention, hypothetically.”

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BRAVE NEW WORLD With the new academic year now well underway, Simon Stanley looks at the ups and downs of student life in a new school, in a new country.

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“You’ve gotta be kidding me?” was thirteen year-old Kevin’s reaction when his parents first broke the news that they were moving to Vietnam. “I didn’t really believe it at first,” he tells me. “It was hard, really hard. I had been living in Australia my whole life so it was a huge change. I got really emotional.” Kevin’s story is no doubt a familiar one for families on the move; as if being a kid isn’t hard enough. “It can almost [lead to] a period of mourning,” writes Carole Hallet Mobbs on her website ExpatChild.com, an online resource for expat parents. For Kevin’s nine year-old sister Amy, things were a little easier. “Younger children are more dependant on the family,” says Fiona Nichols, Admissions and Marketing Manager at the British International School HCMC. “They’re a little more open to the change of environment. Teenagers are more independent and will have formed their own social groups and friendships… there’s an element of ownership which they can be reluctant to give up.” That’s not to say that it will be smooth sailing for primary-aged children. “I remember witnessing my own daughter,” says Nichols. “She was five when we came to Vietnam and she became slightly withdrawn. I went to see her in the playground during her first week and she was just hanging out by herself. So the next day I gave her some stickers to share with the other children - something that would kick-start a conversation. It took time but a couple of weeks later things had changed radically. The school was also pivotal in that.”

attitude of a parent towards a move abroad is just as important, and can easily be mimicked by a child. “I think parents need to put on the brave and happy face and be the grown up,” she says. “But I think they can admit that they’re facing challenges.” For Nichols, patience is essential when settling into a new country: “People come in with very high expectations of integrating immediately, but it takes time. You have to put your hand up and go to the social events going on around you without judging. Then you can start selecting what you feel would be the best fit for you and your family.”

Hit the Ground Running

Before leaving Sydney, Kevin’s mother Julie began planning the transition remotely. “I wanted to make the kids feel like it was home as fast as I could,” she says. “So I Googled everything; music tutors, swimming lessons, places they could do their art, their tennis… if they could get into extra-curricular activities straight away then they wouldn’t have any time to sit around and moan.” “There’s a great vibe in Saigon,” adds Nichols. “It’s a really great place to reside, and I think tapping into it is really important so that people can feel that pulse early on.” As a mother too, Rigney-Zimmermann believes it’s also the small things that matter. “When we first moved we brought some foods that we knew we couldn’t get,” she explains. “So, for the first couple of days, when everything is crazy, you can have that cereal you love for example.” Of course, District 2’s various supermarkets and the imported goods outlets on Ham Nghi Street in District 1 are there if you still can’t get over your Vegemite addiction. Maintaining the old, however, is just as important as embracing the new, a fine balance where social media can be both a blessing and a curse. “I think encouraging the kids to spend time connecting with old friends through Skype and Facebook is good, but don’t let them get lost in that,” she says, “because then they’re not making new friends.” Further down the line, life as an expat student proves time and again to be overwhelmingly beneficial. Less than six months after arriving, Kevin is now taking a course in computer programming via a university in Hong Kong, and regularly travels abroad with his school’s volleyball team, neither of which he could have imagined doing back in Australia. “I’m doing things that I never thought I would at my age, at my level,” he says. “It’s had a hugely positive impact on my life.”

“It was hard, really hard. I had been living in Australia my whole life so it was a huge change. I got really emotional.”

Get Involved

When it comes to helping new students and their families adjust, Saigon’s community of international schools are on hand throughout the entire process, from encouraging friendships in the playground to suggesting restaurants the family might like to try. Coffee mornings for parents, family picnics, meet-and-greet events and expat-life workshops are some of the many school-led social avenues available. “We also have country representatives,” says Nichols. “So if a family is coming in from overseas, they will be put in touch with a parent representative from their country. We feel it’s just as important as promoting the international context. There’s that hankering or longing for home, for just being able to speak your own language.” Admissions and Marketing Director for Saigon South International School, Katie Rigney-Zimmermann, suggests that the

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US-Vietnam trade

EU-Vietnam trade

$31.4 billion

$36 million

BIG Business

Vietnam apparel exports

Vietnam GDP $186.2 billion 32 asialife HCMC

$7 billion

to US in 2012


Vietnam is close to signing two major free trade deals which will send ripples across Asia. Lorcan Lovett looks at the pacts’ potential impact on the country. Photo by Vinh Dao.

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ny foreigners who have struggled to afford or even obtain some of their home comfort foods will soon be in for a pleasant surprise. There’s a wave of champagne, roquefort cheese, and scotch whisky on the horizon, and another brimming with produce from the Pacific Rim countries, led by the United States. Vietnam is on the brink of signing two monolithic trade deals: the first with the EU and the second with 12 countries known as The Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP). The deals will run deeper than lowering the price of international food and drink. They will reshape the very foundations of Vietnam’s economy, transforming industries and affecting the lives of everyday working people. Businessmen and some politicians are rubbing their hands at the prospect of free trade with so many powerhouses, but the sheer size of each agreement has inevitably drawn critics from across the board. Take the Trans-Pacific Partnership for example. It’s the biggest trade agreement ever proposed for the Asia-Pacific region and comprises Australia, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Mexico, New Zealand and Peru, as well as Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, the United States and Vietnam. These countries represent almost 40 percent of global output and 25 percent of global exports of goods and services. Critics say it will hand power from governments to corporations, allowing them to achieve profit by challenging domestic laws which they claim discrimate against private companies, and banning the cheaper alternative of non-brands. Embodying US president Barack Obama’s ‘Asia Pivot’, the pact would be the US’s way of reaching out to Asia, minus the military, and balancing the power scales with China in the region. It would also be open to new members: China itself has expressed interest in joining in the future, after initially seeing it as a threat. One day it may even spread free trade and investment throughout the entire Asia Pacific economic region in a situation like the EU currently enjoys, only bigger.

Negotiations are in the final stages despite talks falling short of a deal in July because of clashes over dairy and automotive trade, as well as a dispute over data retention from biologic drugs, reported Reuters. On a visit to Vietnam last month marking the 20th anniversary of diplomatic relations, US Secretary of State John Kerry told reporters the TPP could be completed before the end of 2015. This would surge Vietnam’s exports by 28.4 per cent to $307 billion in 2025, with apparel and footwear exports increasing by $51.9 billion to $165 billion, according to a study by Professor Peter Petri of Brandeis University and the Peterson Institute. The study predicts Vietnam would lose out on $67.9 billion in a decade without the TPP, while striking the deal would increase GDP by 10.5 per cent in the same period. There’s evidence the ground is already being prepared after foreign companies from TPP countries invested more than $3 billion into developing Vietnam’s textiles sector, so that exports will benefit from duty-free rates when the time comes. Herb Cochran, executive director of the American Chambers of Commerce (AmCham) in Saigon, says the deal will create jobs while boosting business for foreign and domestic companies. “There is momentum for reform to transform Vietnam’s economy and society into a more market-oriented economy,” he says. “This will come from implementing the commitments of transparency, consultation and efficiency in government services that are in the TPP and other free trade agreements.” However, Jessa Boehner, International Program Associate for consumer rights group Public Citizen, says many US demands in the TPP would compromise access to lifesaving medicines including those for cancer and heart disease in Vietnam. “(The proposals) would limit generic competition and raise pharmaceutical prices, restricting access to affordable medicine and hindering local pharmaceutical production and innovation,” she says. The TPP also includes Investor-State Dispute Settlement (ISDS), the controversial

provision that takes place in independent tribunals and empowers foreign corporations to sue governments for laws that they claim affects their ability to make a profit. “For developing countries, the financial liability can be devastating,” says Boehner. “Vietnam is not the only country that could suffer from these extreme provisions, but as a developing country, many of the implications of these proposals will be even more severe.” After two and a half years of negotiations, the EU and Vietnam have reached an agreement in principle for a free trade agreement similar to the TPP. The first of its kind that the EU has concluded with a developing country, the agreement aims to reduce market access barriers to goods, services and agriculture. Trade in goods between the two economies was worth over $31.4 billion last year, with $24.6 billion of imports from Vietnam into the EU and $6.9 billion of exports from the EU to Vietnam. Besides eliminating tariffs, Vietnam will also remove almost all of its export duties in the deal. As Vietnam’s sixth largest foreign investor partner, the EU will capitalise on less limitations by increasing its key exports of high-tech products including aircraft and imports of coffee, rice and electronic products. Finalising the legal text of this agreement is set to be completed before the end of the year. EU Trade Commissioner Cecilia Malmstrom said on Europa.eu, the EU’s website: “Our deal will also make sure that trade does not happen at the cost of the environment or of people’s rights. “The EU and Vietnam have committed to ensure the respect of workers’ rights and to support a sustainable management of natural resources.” Journalist Bill Hayton dubbed Vietnam the Rising Dragon in his book five years ago, which chronicled sweeping social change that has seen foreign investment soar in the country, and questioned what was next for its society. Now it seems the dragon has taken flight, and, judging by the mass of international interest, it’s in for a thrilling ride.

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health

Simon Stanley comes face to face with one of Southeast Asia’s most prevalent parasites.Photos by Vinh Dao. “I think it’s time to go to the doctors,” said my girlfriend as I staggered out of the bathroom for the third time that morning. After four days of soaring temperatures, painful joints, a screaming headache and cold sweats, not to mention the diarrhoea, she had a point. Within two hours of making the call to Family Medical Practice, I had been sampled, tested, diagnosed and discharged, and handed no less than 240 pills to see me through a thirty day programme of antibiotic treatment for the amoebic infection known as amebiasis. According to The American Journal of Tropical Medicine and Hygiene, the intestinal parasite which causes this endemic disease, entamoeba histolytica, affects an estimated 50 million people across the world each year, with death rates as high as 100,000. Commonly found in tropical areas with poor sanitary conditions or low foodhygiene standards, Vietnam is understandably a hotbed for such cases. “Amebiasis is one of the most common forms of traveller’s diarrhoea in Vietnam,” says Dr Okuda, Gastroenterology Specialist at HCMC’s Family Medical Practice. “I see it on a daily basis here. “Viral or bacterial infections normally go away within several days or a week. You don’t necessarily need a treatment, but if you feel sick, you should come and see a doctor.” It is when a patient simultaneously experiences stomach cramps, fever, headaches or nausea, alongside the diarrhoea, that medical attention may be considered necessary. Symptoms alone cannot indicate the

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& wellness presence of amebiasis so it’s important to get tested. However, as Dr Okuda is keen to point out, if a patient has been suffering with prolonged diarrhoea for two weeks or more, even if they are feeling well otherwise, it’s also time to get help. How the bacteria gets inside of you is rather a grim tale. “It is a faecal-oral infection,” says Dr Okuda. Grim indeed. Contamination commonly occurs via unwashed hands and surfaces, entering the body through food, eating utensils, drinking vessels or cookware. In areas where human faeces is used as a fertiliser, the parasite can even pop up in the water supply. “Anything which goes into your mouth can be contaminated,” says the doctor. Left unchecked, it can spread from the intestines to the liver and beyond, littering vital organs with abscesses - serious stuff.

Treatment

As with all cases of diarrhoea, staying hydrated is your number one priority. Isotonic drinks or powdered electrolyte solutions are ideal for replacing the essentials salts and sugars lost. Water alone may not be enough. Being an aggressive parasite, the antibiotics - or anti-parasitics to be precise - are equally as tough. But should we heed the warnings regarding the overuse of antibiotics and the resultant increase in bacterial resistance? Is it really worth hesitating before mindlessly popping pills? “For me,” says Dr Okuda, “whenever you need an antibiotic, you can take it. If you had an antibiotic treatment last week, and this week you have pneumonia and you almost die, would you say ‘I don’t want to take it’?” He has a point. In the case of amebiasis, the treatment is highly specific to the disease.

Prevention

Washing your hands properly before eating and after using the bathroom is your

best bet in preventing the spread of this or any other intestinal infection. Secondly, you should never drink the tap water. There is a common misconception among visitors that this also means avoiding ice outright. In most cases, the ice in your coffee or beer will have been produced in a factory using purified drinking water - a legacy of French colonial rule. Look for pure, transparent ice with a hole through the centre to be certain. That said, Dr Okuda warns that this does not make it completely safe. “The way they keep ice here can also be a source of infection,” he says. “Restaurants and bars will sometimes scoop the ice with a serving mug which may have been kept on a table or a shelf. By scooping ice with that mug, the bottom of which has touched the table, the entire container is contaminated.” Many foreigners also choose to avoid street food altogether. In today’s health conscious world, however, if you read every official warning out there, you might never leave the house. Accordingly, Dr Okuda suggests a more pragmatic approach. “It is part of the risk in your life,” he says. “It depends on how much you agree to take.” For him, when you start drawing firm lines it can be hard to know where to stop. “If I say ‘avoid street food’, then [I might have to] say ‘avoid local restaurants’, [and then] do you not lose a piece of fun in your life? As my passion is eating, I hate limiting patients’ food.” As for me, the outlook is good. Within several days of starting the treatment, my symptoms cleared up - although only the full course of drugs will ensure the complete eviction of my amoebic friends. As for when and how I picked them up, Dr Okuda says it’s not worth considering. “You may have had street food the night before,” he says, “but actually it may have come from an established place you ate at a week ago. You can never tell.”


Microscopic Squatters Microscopic Squatters

For more information on Family Medical Practice Vietnam visit www.VietnamMedicalPractice.com asialife HCMC 35


OPULENCE TRIP The Reverie Saigon is the city’s newest, and only six-star, hotel and was officially opened on September 1. Brett Davis packed his bags to spend a night among the rarefied atmosphere atop the Times Square Tower.

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he check-in lobby of the Reverie Saigon is on the seventh floor of the Times Square building, which straddles a parcel of land between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi streets in District 1. On first encounter it is almost overwhelming to the eye, it is all soaring windows, ornately mosaicked columns and walls, with overstuffed Louis XVI-style sofas at one end and a giant antique clock from Czarist-era St Petersburg at the other. Later on, as I am given a tour of the property’s many, uniquely furnished rooms and other equally elaborate facilities, I’m reminded of the Pulitzer Prize winning novel Martin Dressler: The Tale of an American Dreamer by Steven Millhauser. It is the story of an ambitious young man who goes on to build a hotel empire, with each new establishment more extravagant and endowed with creature comforts than the last, until he creates a hotel one need never leave. Wandering the halls through the hotel and residence wings on the startlingly deep plush carpet, it feels a little like you could never leave this place even if you wanted to, such is its labyrinthine qualities. The gliding of the cage, however, may not to be everyone’s taste. Because, let’s be honest, there is an assertiveness to the decor of the Reverie. It is not subtle, it is in-your-face luxury. From the lobby, to the guest rooms and the dining establishments, it is making a grand statement. Yet regardless of personal tastes, the statement cannot be ignored. Is this what it means to be a six-star establishment? Perhaps so.

However, what is unmistakably six-star at the Reverie Saigon, by anyone’s standards, is the service. From the staff who greet you at the door on arrival, the check-in and concierge staff, to everyone working in the hotel’s food and beverage outlets, the quality is impeccable. I cannot think of another instance in Vietnam where the staff was so uniformly professional, pleasant and well presented. This dedication to service was never more apparent than in the spa, where I was greeted by the friendly reception staff and served a fresh juice while the treatment options were presented. Then it was up to the treatment rooms which were somewhat at odds with the rest of the hotel, the floors and walls all being a warm natural timber. The size of the treatment room was larger than many a hotel room I have stayed in. I opted for the butterfly and bamboo fusion treatment, a combination of traditional massage with essential oils and a treatment with hot bamboo. The latter part involved warmed pieces of bamboo being used like a rolling pin to subdue knotty muscles. It was something I had not tried before, but after ninety minutes I walked out of there one pretty relaxed piece of pizza dough. There are a handful of eating and drinking establishments at the Reverie, including The Royal Pavilion (Chinese), R&J (Italian) and Café Cardinal (French), as well as The Long, a casual dining cum bar venue which runs along the side of the building between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. Although it is outdoors, The Long is still reasonably pleasant thanks to a system of

tubular fans strung along the ceiling that creates a gentle wind tunnel effect. The pizza here is more or less the signature dish and there is a good selection on offer. If you are game enough I recommend the spinach and six cheese pizza (that’s right, none of this quattro formaggi whimpishness here). Dinner was at the excellent Noble Pavilion Chinese fine dining restaurant on the fourth floor. The menu is expansive, but the ever patient and ever smiling restaurant manager was happy to oblige with the ordering. And, honestly, it was impossible to fault her selections. Peking roast duck three ways, king prawns with garlic and chilli, honey glazed barbecue pork and bok choi with mushrooms in oyster sauce. It was classic and it was superb, and easily the best Chinese food I have had in Vietnam. At the end of the evening, after retiring to my 31st-floor suite, as I sat in the generous window-side tub sipping a glass of champagne and looking out at the striving edifice of the Bitexco Tower and the Saigon river beyond (don’t kid yourself, this journalism gig is tough sometimes), I couldn’t help but think again of Martin Dressler and his pursuit of hotel grandeur. In the novel it proves a bridge too far for the fearless entrepreneur, the downside of perusing the American dream. Yet in this dawning Asian century, and particularly in Vietnam’s economic engine that is Saigon, perhaps the Reverie is a place suited to its time in history.

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In Deep

Scuba diving has plenty of risks, but the rewards are immeasurable, as Lorcan Lovett finds out on a visit to Nha Trang.

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here’s 12 metres of sea flowing above me and the visibility is four metres, murky for southern Vietnam, but the dive is going well, and I’m content. That is until a thought flashes through my mind: ‘Always check your pressure gauge’. I fumble for the device strapped onto my side that tells me how much air I have left, and then tug at dive instructor Jeremy Stein’s fin in an act of utter shock. Beginners are told to ascend with a minimum of 50 bar left in their tanks, allowing a five minute pause near the surface to avoid decompression sickness, or ‘the bends’, so my reading of 35 bar is, well, breathtaking. It’s about to get a lot more traumatic, as Stein, grasping my shoulder, thrusts his emergency air supply into my mouth, and we struggle up into the bleak water. Another thought flashes through my mind: ‘Am I actually going to die on my first ever dive?’ About two hours earlier, I sat in Stein’s Rainbow Divers bar in Nha Trang, watching a group of excited divers chatter, before taking a taxi 10 minutes away to the harbour where I would set about completing globally-recognised training group PADI’s Open Water Diver course. Stein and I ploughed through the water on a speedboat, passing fish farms that float like sea shanties under the shadow of the area’s biggest island, Hon Tre. Cable cars stretch out to the island, that’s often mistakenly called Vinpearl, the resort company, after it smacked its name, Hollywood Sign-style, on the hillside following major hotel investments there. We arrived at the smaller, neighbouring island of Hon Mun and the salty air stirred in my lungs, awakening nostalgia for my coastal home city, although a few waves knocking the hull reminded me there’s no better cure for sentimentality than seasickness. Leaning back against the boat, Stein gestured to the glimmering sea lapping against lush islands, and said, “This is my office.” I felt both eager to put my pool training into practice and reassured that Stein was possibly the most qualified man in the country to help. He launched Rainbow Divers, the first PADI dive centre, in Vietnam 20 years ago; a period when he contended with local bird hunters who took potshots at the boats and fisherman who would nonchalantly toss dynamite sticks into dive sites. Fortunately, dynamite fishing was banned, which is one of the reasons why Stein believes the coral is flourishing so much these days. The veteran diver has centres on Whale Island, Phu Quoc Island and Con Dao Island as well as Nha Trang. Promoting safety has driven Stein’s success, and that’s because scuba diving is not for the hypochondriac. Among the many dangers divers face

are ‘the bends’, when the ambient pressure from being underwater is suddenly reduced by climbing too the surface to quickly causes harmful nitrogen bubbles to be released in the bloodstream, and results in anything from a skin rash to paralysis and even death. Pulmonary embolism, when a rapid ascent expands gas in the lungs, causing them to pop like balloons, was my contemplation as I bit into Stein’s back-up regulator. It was my laboured breathing and unnecessary exertions which had drained the air tank so quickly, and now, clouded with panic, I failed to bite the regulator correctly. Dizziness ensued, however, Stein calmly repositioned the regulator to increase the oxygen flow and then I felt the warm, shining sun above and broke the surface while inflating my buoyancy jacket and gulping down air. I looked over at Jeremy, who seemed surprisingly relaxed. Why isn’t he yelling for help, or doing some kind of emergency procedure on me? Then I realised my training had kicked in all along, even before checking the gauge. My mind was cast back to the pool in Saigon; to this exact procedure which we had practiced. Stein saw the situation as a good opportunity to learn. Back on the boat, I had watermelon instead of the emergency oxygen I was expecting. Over the next two days I submerge into the wonders of the underwater world. We continue different training exercises among a profusion of marine life illuminated by brilliant, lurid light in the shallows. It’s extraordinary to visit this kaleidoscopic world. In it, blue starfish are draped over coral like fancy pillows, and above them wonderfully camouflaged fish dart from anemone, while goat fish shoot their tongues at the sea bed. Almost every encounter with the fish is unique and memorable. On the second dive, a black, distorted shape revealed itself to be a school of baby catfish, which negotiated obstacles like a flock of starling. Besides the elusive whale shark, all the fish in Nha Trang are small, but that’s not a negative. Whether it’s the Spanish dancer, a long, fat, pink sea slug, or the tiny, monochrome humbug, each has its own personality, and, despite my slightly hairraising introduction to open water diving, I can’t wait to meet more of the creatures in many more dives to come.

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CITY DRINKS

Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 // biacraft.com 11am – 12pm, 7 days

This new bar showcases some of the finest new craft ales and beers. Review by Lorcan Lovett. Photos by Vinh Dao A network of independent brewers has been strung together in a new craft beer bar which promises to showcase the most attentively made tipples in Saigon. Customers to Bia Craft in Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, will first notice its large, stylish logo on the shopfront that would not look out of place in one of London’s hipster hideouts. In the bar a glowing ‘Ice Cold Beer’ sign sits above blackboards featuring the latest draft beers - eight all together - with the aim of keeping about five regulars and rotating the rest. Despite opening in midAugust, Bia Craft has already captured a friendly, effusive atmosphere thanks to a flow of locals from District 2’s expat community. Owners Albin Deforges, Tim Scott and Mark Gustafson have plans to utilise the food cart out front by feeding the crowd bar snacks such as gyoza, spam fries, and hotdogs, priced from VND 60,000 to VND 100,000, that incorporate beer in the ingredients. The men, who launched popular American barbeque joint Quan Ut Ut in District 1, acted on people’s insatiable thirst for quality beer in a city without many options. Among their offerings, the owners have delightfully hoppy pale ale Fuzzy Logic which grew from its origins 40 asialife HCMC

in the kitchen of two expats to having 4,000 litres made at an established brewery on the city’s outskirts. Platinum Brewery has commissioned an exclusive golden ale, Phat Rooster has an amber ale, and Pasteur Street Brewing Company has joined the party with its farmhouse ale Saigon Saison. Bia Craft also has five of its own specially developed ales that will rotate, including an 8.1 per cent Double IPA and seven per cent pale ale Xau ma Chanh (Ugly, yet Vain); the latter tipped as a bestseller. Prices for these ales are around VND 40,000 a sample, VND 60,000 a regular, and VND 90,000 a pint. “To us, craft beer is similar to buying a very nice bottle of wine,” Deforges says. “It’s something done with attention, detail, and brings a specific flavour.” Bia Craft’s partnership with importers Zebrafish means the bar’s fridge is always packed with other goodies such as British and Swedish cider, Australian sparkling ale and beers from Lost Coast Brewing Company of Northern California. It’s all very well pouring craft ale to expats who’ve lapped it up back in their home countries, but Bia Craft aims to get the less familiar Vietnamese market involved too by opening in a new undisclosed location soon, so cheers to that.


Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 11:30am – midnight, 7 days // 090 729 2725

From the creators of Relish & Sons and Racha Room comes a grill house like no other. C’mon…You already know it’s good. Review by Simon Stanley. Photos by Vinh Dao.

Mention ‘wood-fired’ anything and I’ll be there. There isn’t much that the sweet, aromatic kiss of wood smoke can’t improve. Throw in a menu of classic cocktails and I may never leave. Stoker immediately feels like somewhere quite different for Saigon. Think of a traditional British hunting club after a touch of 21st-century upcycling. “We wanted to create something that was unique in all senses of the word,” says business partner Kristian Harmston. “The idea is that you walk in and you’ve stepped back in time, to a place where things are a little simpler… back to a more traditional way of eating and drinking.” In addition to the decadent yet refined interior, Stoker also comes

with its own backstory - that of intrepid patron Francis Oldric C. Stoker. Be sure to read up on the full history before leaving. It’s a wonderful injection of theatre. An intimate yet spacious bar greets guests on the ground floor - dark woods, seductive lighting - an ideal spot for happy-hour libations (5pm to 7pm daily). Grab a few bar snacks (the thick cut chips catch my attention) and browse the thirteen-page drinks list which includes every brand of scotch, bourbon and whisky you could ever ask for. The lineup of classic cocktails is as old-fashioned as, well, the Old Fashioned. No lychee martinis or chilli infused vodka here. Before heading to the dining space upstairs, be sure to check out Stoker’s own meat ageing

room. Single out your own cut from a top quality lineup of US and Australian beef or simply choose from the menu and be guided by Stoker’s expert staff who will even bring the uncooked flanks to your table for assessment - if you’re into that kind of thing. Steak prices start at VND360,000 for a perfect slice of Australian Angus and top out at VND2,100,000 for a Wagyu fillet; all are served with at least one complimentary homemade sauce. With the day’s rainstorm drowning the world outside, photographer Vinh and I work our way across a selection platter racked with Stoker’s finest offerings (VND1,150,000). The flavours, the textures, the tenderness, all are flawless and we eat in a silence punctuated only by

groans of meat-fuelled ecstasy. But Stoker isn’t just a steakhouse; pork belly (VND250,000), salmon with charred asparagus (VND320,000) and a jerk spiced, barbecued chicken for two (VND480,000) are among the highlights on the equally impressive ‘Slow & Low’ menu. If you’re willing to delay that meaty climax, a range of starters await, the most intriguing of which would have to be the bone marrow (VND210,000). Woodfired and served with grilled sourdough, it’s a true showstopper. For an afternoon delight, be sure to check out the VND240,000 three-course set lunch, just don’t be surprised if you’re still there when happyhour rolls around. asialife HCMC 41


B.O.C. Barbeque 43 Nguyen Van Giai, D1 // 5pm to 11pm, 7 days

Fun and food are the order of the day at this great value American-style barbeque joint. Review and photos by Brett Davis.

To say that American-style barbeque has taken off in Saigon in the last year would be something of an understatement. Since the boys at Quan Ut Ut made their presence known there have been a host of followers. Newly-minted venue B.O.C Barbeque is bringing a youthful and energetic take to the genre with their open-air venue tucked down a hem off Nguey Van Giai in District 1. Those two qualities come from the group of nine young Vietnamese professionals who are behind B.O.C. From fields as diverse as finance, architecture, design, and advertising, the group of friends and food fanatics decided they wanted to open a place they

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would like to hang out in and eat the food they like to cook at home. Vicky Ton, a 25-year-old investment fund manager who also happened to make the final 12 in last year’s Master Chef Vietnam in her spare time, said they also wanted to create value. “Vietnamese people like to eat meat, they like to eat barbeque, but many of the places are so expensive,” she said. B.O.C certainly offers value for money. We are chatting over a dinner consisting mainly of the ‘special platter’, a heaping of slow-cooked ribs, whole chicken leg, two sausages and baconwrapped asparagus that will feed at least four and goes for only VND 425,000.

Add to that the best-selling tom yum chicken wings (VND 75,000) and a garden salad (VND 65,000) washed down with a Saigon Special beer (VND 19,000) and you have a seriously competitively priced fare. Not to be defeated with that, we also tucked into the deliciously garlic-laced spicy pasta with shrimp (VND 78,000) and the clams baked with cheese and chilli (VND 50,000). The latter was a real highlight and should not be missed. We are joined by another of the partners, 26-year-old Sarrie Bui, who works in digital marketing. She tells me about the fit out of the place which came courtesy of the architect and

designer members of the group, and includes funky bottle lights, upcycled tables and a large mural painted on the hem wall. “It’s not just about the food,” she said. “We also wanted to create atmosphere and a place that is fun to hang out in.” It is great to see a group of smart, driven young Vietnamese men and women not afraid to pursue their ambitions. While all busy with their demanding day jobs, the restaurant opened its doors in only an eye-popping three weeks after the group came up with the idea. While cooking, Ton and Bui start riffing on the idea of doing a tapas place. I’ll be keeping an eye out for it, in about three weeks’ time.


CIRCUS KITCHEN 232 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 8am — 10pm, 7days

A wide choice of fresh fish and meat grilled outdoors is turning this barbeque into the latest District 2 hotspot. Review by Lorcan Lovett. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke

Anyone walking down the quiet Nguyen Van Huong street on a Thursday night will notice wafts of smoke and music blowing from underneath a red and white awning. The wisest move would be to walk into Circus Kitchen and feast on its all-you-can-eat outdoor barbeque, one of the newest additions to Thao Dien’s food scene. The restaurant has a relaxed ambiance, with outdoor seating covered by the canvass and splintered with circus coloured pillars which surround a circle of grills. Most of the food is cooked in this spot although there’s another indoor kitchen where soups and other dishes are made. Every Thursday from 6.30pm,

customers are offered a tempting banquet of fresh food for VND 220,000 to be cooked either by the chefs or by themselves at a grill on their own table. All-you-can-eat deals are something I’ve always seen as a personal challenge rather than an option, so on that note I started light. First up was a creamy cabbage salad with a juicy, skewered prawn, and a bite of succulent pork still warm off the grill. This was washed down with blended passion fruit juice (VND 35,000) served in a big jam jar-style glass. Already the value for money of this fresh food extravaganza was showing when I stacked up my second plate: samna fish

with chilli and salt grilled for just about the right time, along with skewers of ladyfingers, eggplant and dragon beans, plus a chicken wing. Circus Kitchen opened in mid-June although you could easily mistake it for a more established restaurant due to the amount of reserved tables. At about 7.30pm, the tables were almost full and underneath the canvass a buzzing atmosphere filled the air that was greased by the restaurant’s signature draft beer (VND 20,000 a pint), brewed locally by Nha Hang Big Man Beer. For the third plate, I shuffled on a handful of steaming Thai steamed clams, Sautéed corn with tiny shrimps, and a skewer of beef wrapped in betel leaves.

Although my stomach was beginning to swell, the latter dish still impressed, with thebeef’s juices sealed in peppery leaves tasting great after a dunk in nuoc mam cham. For you, the reader, I confronted the barbecue one last time and chose squid grilled like the samna fish in chilli and salt, refreshing young papaya salad sprinkled with dry beef, chicken yakitori imparting a sweet soy-sauce zing, and fried rice holding soft, whole cloves of garlic. On the way home, I felt my Thursdays would now be monopolised by Circus Kitchen, whose combination of grills and a la carte with a sophisticated, street food style really hits the spot. asialife HCMC 43


Another’s Treasure A line of jewellery is the latest endeavour from a social enterprise aiming to showcase the abilities of traditional Vietnamese craftsmen. By Brett Davis. Photos by Vinh Dao. Sophisticated, creative and funky are the first impressions of the new jewellery line being released by social enterprise Fashion4Freedom (F4F). But the story behind the pieces goes much deeper, and has a far greater impact on the lives of those behind it than you might imagine. Having previously worked with local artisans to produce textiles and shoes, F4F’s new foray expands its project to connect Vietnamese craftspeople and manufacturers with the international fashion industry. The benefits of this are threefold: skills that might otherwise be lost are maintained, artisans and their families are able to make a sustainable living, and the industry can ensure its goods are produced in an ethical

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manner. The jewellery, designed by F4F founder Lan Vy Nguyen, is created by a collective of master gemologists, silversmiths and wood carvers. F4F’s Rachael Carson explains the materials used also take advantage of ‘upcycling’ what others have discarded. “We favour materials that need a reincarnation. The metal from our jewellery was mined from old hardware like phones, computers and tablets,” she says. “The stones were once shrugged away by other designers due to their unusual and delicate beauty marks, giving new life to bygone materials.” Some of the stones used in the range

include onyx, quartz and casidion. “Good design accounts for more than form and function,” Carson says. “Good design considers the spectrum of life and re-usability of objects, and it instills value into the entire process of development: from concept, sourcing, and material usage, to overall product footprint.” Prices range from $75 for a pair of earrings to $375 for the Art Deco necklace. Stockists for the new range are still being confirmed, but you can find more information on the full line of jewellery, and the work of F4F, at fashion4freedon.com, or email rachael@fashion4freedom.com.


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SITA RAITER’S

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POISED PROPORTIONS

Expat artist-designer SITA RAITER’s namesake fashion line seems to remind trend-trolling fashionistas to always aim for the perfect balance. In Raiter’s A/W’15 collection, she incorporates wide-sleeved translucent tunics that skim to the knees, layers them over skinny-fit joggers that slightly pucker at the ankles, and ties anklelaced heels or cut-out gladiator stompers that finally ground the silhouette. Colours in the collection similarly offset one another in

mostly grayscale but with earthy punches of raw sienna that are appropriate for autumn. This very graceful yet assertive aesthetic also plays out in a logical mixture of masculine and feminine touches, such as embroidered floral fronds on a black peplum dress that’s styled under a heavy and structured military peacoat. Other design details test their creative limit just enough to pique interest, from pleated front flaps, crossover wrap draping, peeping side-belts, textured

quilted vests and windowpane fabrics. Ultimately it’s a smart and intelligent set of well-contrasted styles and proportions, which means of course that it can always be punctuated with a sensual and sexy red lip. by Ruben Luong Sitaraiter.com info@sitaraiter.com

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listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours. Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden. Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest

escape

of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat café, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine. Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre. New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant. Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HOI AN & DANANG

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinc-

Green Field Hotel 423 Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3863 484 www.greenfieldhoian.com Mid-range hotel with simple but spacious rooms overlooking the garden and pool. Rates start below Located 400 metres from the Old Town. Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.tamhairesort.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine. Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

NHA TRANG

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

percent off promotion, valid for stays completed by 31 October.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Family getaway at Indochine Palace

Holiday Beach Danang Hotel & Resort celebrates its second anniversary with a discounted nightly rate.

Families can explore the ancient city of Hue by taking advantage of this special promotion. Surrounded by a lush exotic garden, BW Premier Indochine Palace is offering a twobedroom suite for two children and two adults.

The hotel is charging VND 2,840,000 per room for a minimum of two nights, with those staying for three nights or longer entitled to an extra 10 per cent off.

The deal costs VND 12,129,000, lasts for three days and two nights, and is valid until 30 September.

The rate includes a complimentary massage, shuttle bus to Hoi An and Danang City, and drinks upon arrival.

It includes one candle-lit dinner for the whole family at the resort’s restaurant, a daily buffet or room service breakfast, spa treatment for two people, and airport transfers.

Close to Danang’s downtown and only steps away from My Khe Beach, the hotel is perfect for a relaxing break.

Danang Hotel anniversary celebrations

Sheraton Hanoi Hotel

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tive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

See Hanoi in style with Sheraton Hotel’s 20

Situated on the shores of Hanoi’s West Lake with its many local attractions, the hotel is a quick drive to the bustling city centre. The Old Quarter, also temptingly close by, is home to Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi Grand Theatre, and unforgettable boutiques. Rates start from VND 1,900,00 per room per night.


PHAN THIET Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool. Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex. The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa. Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc. Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Imperial Hotel 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym. Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas. The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this develop-

ment opened with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS Been In Asia www.beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com CHUDU24 hotel booking service 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008. Indochina Ventures 40 Truong Quyen, D3 Tel: 3820 2563/3820 2564 Fax: 3829 2565 info@indochina-ventures.com Tour operator that specializes in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Can tailor packages to suit customers’ time frames and interests. iTravel 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 0836 4876 www.itravel-online.com trung@itravel-online.com Operated out of Le Pub (Hanoi/HCMC) offering a wide range of tour and accomodation options throughout Vietnam, as well as custom-made tours tailored to customer specifications.

AIRLINES Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris. Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex. Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.


Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

listings

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS

Dublin’s Gate D1 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar D2 7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

feast

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two. Red Bar 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 08 22 29 70 17 Tucked behind the Bitexco building, Red has one of the longest happy hours in the city (draught beer for VND 25,000 from 9am until 9pm). This, its international food menu and nightly live music makes it one of the liveliest bars around. Shrine 64 Ton That Thiep Tel: 08 39 142 817 ShrineBarSaigon.com A sleek cocktail bar on a street full of beer and football, Shrine is a standout for its décor and drink menu. Shrine offers everything from wine to drinks and snacks to full-blown meals, its cocktails are the reason to visit. The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

CAFES

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

InterContinental deals on classic dishes

Two special promotions at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Hotel are set to have taste buds tingling until they finish on 30 September. Drawing inspiration from Northern Italy, the hotel’s culinary team has created a risotto dish with a gourmet twist, served in lobby-level restaurant Basilico. This comfort food classic will include unique seasonal fare such as Porcini mushroom, black ink risotto and seafood. It is available for dinner only for VND 198,000 with a complimentary a

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Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza. 

glass of draft beer. At Yuchu on the first floor, there is a promotion on Peking duck where customers can choose two cooking styles for a whole duck at VND 688,000. The dish includes skin roll, deep-fried with garlic and chili, stir-fried minced duck meat roll with lettuce, duck soup, stir-fried duck meat with yellow noodle or shredded duck fried rice. .

Malaysian cuisine at New World

All lovers of Malaysian cuisine are invited to join the celebrations of Malaysian Cuisine Week at Parkview restaurant in New World Saigon Hotel. Executive Sous Chef Alan Hew will be cooking up a host of authentic Malaysian dishes, including traditional Malaysian curry laksa, beef rendang, roti canai, fish mackerel tauchu bean paste, and mango kerabu salad.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials. Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs. Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa. Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a well-known industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

There will also be entertainment including caricature, henna painting and a Teh Tarik showcase. The dinner which includes house wine, Sapporo draft beer, soft drinks, tea and coffee, runs from 6pm to 10pm from 3 September to 13 September, costing VND 960,000 per person.

Vietnamese feast at Hyatt Experience traditional Vietnamese dishes at their finest at Saigon Park Hyatt’s restaurant, Square One. The ongoing offer includes a selection of authentic clay pot dishes available in three different styles - Saigon, Hanoi and Mien Trung. This clay pot selection offers a wide range of local specialties from chicken and sweet potato curry, caramelised pork and boiled egg to river eel and green papaya. Prices start from VND 240,000.


INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw. The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day. Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

May Restaurant & Bar 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com We have over 20 years experience in hospitality business in Vietnam with some famous Brand such as Shodow Bar & Café and MAY Restaurant & Bar. MAY- short for ‘Me and You’, it is all in one premium casual kitchen & bar downtown. Located centrally on the historic Dong Khoi street with a fusion of Western and Asian cuisine and pride themselves in their wine list and international standard of service. Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes. Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc. 

44

DONG DU ST.

DISTRICT 1, HO CHI MINH

8 AM - 12 AM

(+84) 120 721 4294

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available. Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients. 

OPENING HOURS Mon-Fri: 11:30 am - till late Sat-Sun: 4:00 pm - till late 12 - 14 Mac Thi Buoi St. Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh - (+84) 908 79 1412

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 08 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats. Koto 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 Tel: (+84) 3822 9357 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life. Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

Mon-Fri: 11:30 am - 12:00 am Sat-Sun: 4:00 pm - 12:00 am

(+84) 90 7292 725 44 Mac Thi Buoi St, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh

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Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room. Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

By Michael Kloster

imbibe I Think We’re Gonna Drink It All While contemplating this month’s column, I was thinking frequently missed imbibe opportunities. Sure, you have your aperitifs before meals, cocktails, wine, cheeky snifters of cognac, chunky crystal glasses with scotch on the rocks, but there seemed to be something missing. Then I remembered instead of having a coffee, how about a coffee with a little extra. There are all kinds, and of course, feel free to make up your own. Basically it’s like this. Some coffee (Vietnamese, American, Espresso, to each his own), a shot or two of liqueur or spirit (or an inspired combination of the two) and sometimes, (depending on the desired effect), a bit of sweetened or whipped cream. This is what I call dessert, digestif AND after dinner coffee rolled into one boozy, sophisticated package. Irish Coffee There are many basics, yet the most well-known is the Irish Coffee. It’s said to have been invented by a certain Joe Sheridan, at the airport in Shannon, Ireland, in an effort to warm up a group of frosty passengers. He threw together some hot coffee, Irish whiskey, sugar and sweetened cream, which seems to have set them right, because this sexy coffee became a regular part of life in the terminal before being brought back to San Francisco, California and becoming famous. Hot or Cold While Irish coffee is tradition54 asialife HCMC

ally served hot, it (as well as its similarly inspired brethren) can also be done iced. You can then either build your sexy coffee on the rocks, or served straight up. I prefer to start with cooled coffee, shaken in a cocktail shaker with cubes of ice and the booze, and topping with some cream or whipped cream. You can then either build your sexy coffee on the rocks, or served up straight. If you’re feeling adventerous, you can even whip it up in a blender. Sexy Café Sua Da 1 big glass of strong, chilled Vietnamese Coffee 40 ml dark or spiced rum 20 ml Kahlua Coffee Liqueur 20 ml cream or fresh whole milk Copiously shake with generous ice in a cocktail shaker and serve up in a chilled glass. If the drink is too sexy for you, add a splash of sugar syrup. If you want to get fancy, shake the cream separately and float it on top of the coffee/ booze mixture. It will ooze down like a chilled, auburn lava lamp. Cheers! Michael Kloster spent a lifetime drinking, pouring and brewing to research this column. He has been involved in the hospitality industry for the better part of two decades, nearly half of that time in our very own Ho Chi Minh City. Feel free to invite him out for a few: luckydogvn@

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coastinspired. Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things.  Zombie BBQ Parkland 628A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 08 66 853 756 Inspired by the current influx of American comfort food in Saigon, Zombie BBQ is an American-style barbecue restaurant focusing on birch-smoked meats, eclectic sides and a handcrafted variety of barbecue sauces to suit all tastes. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines. Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  LovEat 29 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 08 62 602 727 Facebook.com/LovEatRestaurant Chic downtown bistro LovEat occupies a prime spot opposite the Bitexco Financial Tower, serving traditional Mediterranean cuisine with an Italian twist. The restaurant prides itself on organic local ingredients and offers full meals as well as coffee, drinks and Italian pastries. Open from 9am til late. 

JAPANESE

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm. Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon,

253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

KOREAN

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes. Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king. Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 35 21 85 13 Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets. Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.


recipes

melody lopez Lemon or Lime Pie Bars INGREDIENTS (Serves 12--16)

For the crust: • 24 digestive biscuits • ⅓ cup granulated sugar • 115g unsalted butter, melted

For the filling: • 3 egg yolks, room temperature • 415 mL sweetened condensed milk • 4 teaspoons lemon or lime zest • 120 mL lemon or lime juice

PREPARATION 1. Preheat your oven to 175 C. Crush the biscuits by hand or in a food processor into peasized crumbs. Add sugar and melted butter and stir until all of the crumbs are moistened by the butter. Press into a 20 x 20 cm square pan. Bake the crust for about 10 minutes, or until golden brown and set. 2. Whisk the egg yolks for two minutes until pale yellow. Add the condensed milk and continue to whisk. Add lemon

or lime zest and gradually add the juice while whisking. Whisk continuously for about two to four more minutes, or until the mixture has thickened slightly. 3. Pour the filing into the crust and bake for about 15 minutes. 4. Cool completely on the rack, then refrigerate for two hours or until fully set. Cut into 16 squares and serve.

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Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu. Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: +84 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

Local Eats

By Tristan Ngo

The Wrap & Roll My friends from Wrap & Roll are doing a splendid job putting out good food, but taking nothing away from them, I think that the best wraps and rolls in HCMC are out in District 6. This is literally a hole in the wall kind of place. Their main business is made to order - for delivery or pick up. Their menu is quite simple and only features: bi cuon, goi cuon, nem cuon, cha gio and bun thit nuong. Bi Cuon Shredded pork and pork skin rice paper rolls. The mixture of pork skin, roasted rice powder and shredded meat makes an intriguing, yet delicious taste. Goi Cuon Also known as a Summer Roll or Spring Rolls this traditional dish consists of pork, prawns, rice vermicelli, coriander and local herbs wrapped in ‘banh trang’ or rice paper. Nem Cuon Nem Nuong is also known as grilled pork sausage or meatballs. This dish is often served on bamboo skewers or with rice noodles. In this version, it is cut up and used as a roll with rice noodles, fresh herbs in transparent rice paper. This one is my favorite. Cha Gio The main fillings in cha gio are commonly seasoned ground pork, mushrooms, and julienne carrots all rolled up in rice paper. The roll is then deep fried until the rice paper coat turns crispy and golden brown. The ones 56 asialife HCMC

here are thicker than a normal size cha gio and freshly made to order. Bun Thit Nuong A popular Vietnamese cold rice vermicelli noodle dish topped with grilled pork, fresh herbs like basil and mint, fresh salad, bean sprouts, and cha gio. It comes dressed with their marinated fish sauce and you’re ready to roll. The dipping sauce I’ve often said that the broth either makes or breaks a good bowl of noodles. This is also true of the dipping sauces offered with the wraps and rolls at Chi Hong, their marinated fish sauce ‘nuoc cham’ and peanut sauce are the best. Nuoc cham is the quintessential, best known dipping sauce from Vietnam. It is made from fish sauce marinated with water, sugar, lime juice, chopped garlic, chopped chili and vinegar. Simple, yet one of the hardest sauces to master. The peanut sauce is actually one of my favorites. It is made of peanut butter and hoisin, topped with roasted peanuts, a scoop of chili paste, julienned pickled carrots and daikon. Chi Hong 221 Le Quang Sung, W.6, D.6 Time 10:30 am to 4 pm 0933689612 (Vietnamese Tristan Ngo is the Chef Patron and Owner of Skewers Restaurant and The Elbow Room.

Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Saigon Lookout D1 37 bis Ky Con Tel 09 6688 4668 Saigon's Lookout is one of Saigon's hidden gems where east meets west, with a menu of twisted Vietnamese cuisine complimented by funky oriental cocktails.

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes. The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service. Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits. Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am. Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs. Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches. Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices. Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2 Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.


listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis. DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D.2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule. CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles. Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions. Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted. Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals. Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm. Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists. Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Our Australian beef is grass fed and selected from farms across Victoria. We also have Australian lamb and locally sourced fine pork and chicken. Proudly Australian owned and managed. No. 1 Street. 2, Thao Dien Ward. District 2. Ho Chi Minh City www.meatworksasia.com T:+84 8 37442565

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese. Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples. San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public. TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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listings

By Phil Kelly

FITNESS House of Hormones, Part 3 In May (Part 1 - Estrogen Dominance) and June (Part 2 - Hunger Hormones) I started writing about the chemical functions of your body and how manipulating your lifestyle, diet and exercise correctly can exponentially increase your health, fat loss and fitness goals. The third hormone that plays a major role in effecting our health, fat loss and fitness is Cortisol. If you find it extremely hard to lose fat around your midsection or have stubborn fat stores hanging on around the belly button you most likely have an issue with cortisol. What is cortisol? Cortisol is classified as our stress hormone. It is much more than this and in the right amounts is essential for correct bodily function. Cortisol’s many functions include helping the body use sugar (glucose) and fat for energy, gets us up and moving in the morning and helps the body manage stress. The problem is again when there is too much or an imbalance. Cortisol acts as our bodies ‘jet fuel’ turning on our ‘fight or flight’ responses, an essential process for survival. However, cortisol is a catabolic (breaking down) hormone and if we over produce can create serious health issues. Quality sleep Charles Poliquin, a world leading health coach, states that getting just one hour less sleep per night than you need will alter the activity of the hy-

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pothalamus and result in higher levels of the stress hormone cortisol. A hundred years ago we used to sleep for an average of nine to 11 hours per night, two to four hours more than the six or seven hour average of this era. Correct Cardio: The fact is that long bouts of cardio training at a moderate to high intensity (‘chronic cardio’) are counterproductive for fat loss. ‘Chronic cardio’ does not stimulate an anabolic hormone response to counteract the catabolic process of cortisol. When an individual lifts weights or sprints they put their body under stress, producing cortisol but these activities also generate the production of anabolic hormones that encourage growth, repair and fat burning. De-stress Breaking the cortisol (stress) cycle is essential to optimizing your results and returning your body to a restorative and homeostasis state. De-stress by doing yoga and meditation, have regular massages, eat antioxidant-rich foods, consume adequate omega-3 fatty acids and laugh a lot. Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon. com), online or at your home. Contact him though his website Phil-kelly.com or Facebook. com/BodyExpertSystemsVietnam.

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more. Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down. Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps. Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered. L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance. NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout. Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes. Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation. Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.


FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome. RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments. Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com

The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels. Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments. Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available. Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points. Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams. Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores. Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360

A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays. Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information. Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information. X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English,

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia. Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English

Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists

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and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality. European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940. Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy. .

ward for “Excellence ietnam A 014 V by Vietnam Economic Times in Dentis 2 try” 0 201

Starlight An Phu

Starlight City Center

24 Thao Dien, Dist.2, HCMC starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net

02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Dist.1, HCM City - Tel: 39 25 33 99 NO.1 DENTAL CLINIC 51 Ba Thang Hai Street, Dist.10, HCM City - Tel: 39 29 09 09

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Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm. International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

SKINCARE The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products. The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company offers hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.



listings

family By Poppy NuyenEastwood

Education hub Taking The Good With The Bad As students trudge through their education, they often encounter different types of teachers. Some are good, some are bad, and sometimes students have different opinions. For me a good teacher requires patience and the ability to explain clearly. What use is a teacher if their students don’t understand them? For instance, not all students are geniuses in math. If the teacher just writes the lesson down on the board without explaining it thoroughly to the class, the students may as well study with just a textbook. Teachers are here to teach, to help, to explain. We’ve all had experience with bad teachers. The ones that ask you to give back an assignment without explaining the content, or that don’t prepare their lesson so that the student’s don’t learn half the things that they’re supposed to. However, it can be more complicated as everyone learns in different ways. Some are more receptive to visual learning, some to auditory learning and some to kinesthetic learning. If a teacher teaches in a visual way, an auditory student will find it harder to follow. I remember being in a

class and not understanding the lesson. The teacher just started talking and writing on the board. I didn’t understand a thing and at the end of class, he told us we’d be tested tomorrow. I was annoyed! He hadn’t explained properly and he’d only taken ten minutes to do it! I got a really bad grade on my test but it taught me that I needed to do a little extra work at home, however annoying, frustrating and timeconsuming it may be. If you are faced with a lazy teacher and you think that you’re not getting anything out of his/her classes, be independent. Research your subject, read textbooks, ask your teacher a lot of questions (this might motivate them) and spend a little extra time reviewing and working on the subject. Remember that if you feel like it’s a problem, you can talk to your parents, your classmates, and other teachers. At the end of the day, you can’t choose your teachers but you can learn how to make the best with what you have. Poppy Nguyen Eastwood is a Grade 9 student at Lycée Français International Marguerite Duras

ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings. DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 08 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 4 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage. All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world. The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2

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Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese. International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures. The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system.. International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s longterm strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad. Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.


Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an education tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play. Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 7827 Fax: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn. Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environ-

ment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562

www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org / www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more. Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes. Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese. The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

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presence in both HCMC and Hanoi. Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org

By Elizabeth Png

HOME IMPROVEMENT Four Kitchen Design Mistakes The kitchen is a large part of our home lives, where we cook, eat and even socialise with family and friends. A practical yet elegant kitchen design should thus avoid these no-nos. Disrupting the kitchen triangle The kitchen triangle refers to the three areas of greatest activity in any kitchen – the sink, stove and refrigerator. Most kitchens are designed such that these three areas are placed in a triangular layout to facilitate easy access and movement between them. Of this three, the sink is likely the most commonly used area. However, they are often installed near the plumbing. Instead of allowing the location of the plumbing to dictate where the sink is, consider relocating the plumbing to accommodate the best placement for the sink. The sum of the distance between the areas in a work triangle should not be less than three metres and more than eight metres. If the distance is too small, people will get in the way of each other. Ignoring counter-top work space Even if you live in a small apartment, always set aside enough work space to prepare food on. Consider all the activities that will require a countertop space, as well as appliances that may be permanently located there such as blenders and toasters. Consider installing cooking hob which has a spacious burner layout that provides an alternative workspace when 64 asialife HCMC

you need to keep an eye on the cooking. Poor lighting You can’t afford to have poor lighting in the kitchen. This goes beyond a matter of comfort and design, but one of safety, since you’ll be handling sharp knives as well as hot food and equipment often. Rooms generally need three kinds of lighting – general lighting, task lighting and accent lighting. Evaluate the work spaces in your kitchen and think about how each spot can get the light it needs, such as lighting directly over the main areas. Forgetting ventilation A kitchen that looks great but smells of last night’s dinner will still be a turn-off. Invest in good cooking hoods to help improve the quality of the air in your kitchen. Look for a hood which is not just quiet, but has a high air extraction power rating that ensures effective cleaning of the air after cooking. Effective ventilation will not just keep the air smelling good, but the kitchen clean, as it also extracts grease particles. This can help extend the life of your kitchen appliances and provide a cleaner and more comfortable home environment for everyone. Elizabeth has worked with global household brands with key focus on major home appliances in Vietnam. She can be reached on elizabethpng@yahoo.com.sg.

Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses. Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City. Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available. Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor. SYS Vi Tinh Saigon

96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment. Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops. Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets. Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology. IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance. Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam. Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals. International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes. Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting. TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113


Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting. Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies. Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys. DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches. Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves. Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like. Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25. Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs. OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh. Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals. Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags. Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators. Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories. Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty. Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE Spanish Customs When you are passing through an airport and you get yourself a meal deal, the magazines and that meter long Toblerone that you just need to have, you will have gotten your boarding pass out three times for it to be scanned. Have you ever asked why they need to scan your boarding pass? No you haven’t, but someone in the UK has asked for you and the answer is……you don’t need to show it. They have found out in the UK stores have been using this information to not pay 20% tax on anything sold to customers leaving the EU. Many stores, including high street giants have not been passing this discount onto their customers. As this practise has been going on for years without anyone asking about it, they have been able to get away with it. We have stumbled through the departure lounges blinkered and unquestioning. How many more things do we do that with in our lives? Within a working environment we should be analysing the way we work and evaluating how successful completed tasks are. No one should ever say, “We have always done it this way, why change it”. Yes, while if the wheel isn’t broken, do not try to fix it, but a little tinker with the spokes may make it run smoother and quicker. Now look at your personal life. People do not and this can be costing you money. Lots of money and lots of your

precious time. Apart from your normal household expenses, the main area that you can save on is in your financials. These are your bank accounts, savings, investments and insurances. When was the last time you looked into the charges of your bank? Whether it be based in Vietnam or elsewhere, there will always be alternatives. If you are happy with the service the bank gives you, great. If not, wouldn’t you rather give your fees to a bank that you are happy with their service? Same as your investment adviser and your insurance. Just because you have been using the same insurance company for years and just keep renewing the same policies every year because it is easy, stop. Have a look around or engage someone to look around on your behalf. That’s one of the things that financial advisers do. It’s not just all investments, pensions and mortgages. Make them earn their money. So next time you are going through the airport buying your overpriced perfume that you won’t wear and that go-pro camera that will never get wet or muddy. Smile when you are using your new credit card from a different provider because it is cheaper and the service is better than the old provider. Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

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FURNITURE

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

By Gary Woollacott

People matter Employees Gone Rogue (2) About a year ago I told the story of a under-performing salesman who had fabricated a huge sale in order to make himself look good: it didn’t end well when it turned out that he had two jobs and was playing off one against the other to buy time. Lucky they found out when they did. This time I’m going to talk about when you have someone who has gone rogue, but you don’t know it yet. This person, and I am thinking of one person in particular, worked for us, and she found it very difficult to follow to our Standard Operating Procedures. She couldn’t stick to our regular way of doing things; she made new ways despite our internal work rules being very clear. The warning signs were small: complete silence from her for an hour or so, apart from the sound of fingers on a keyboard. When I asked what she was doing, the answer was “preparing a spreadsheet” for this or that. Well, we’ve been in this business for many years so that spreadsheet probably exists already, or we just don’t need it. “Why are you making a new one?” “Oh, I thought this would be a better way/I didn’t know/I didn’t look.” Useless excuses, typical answers from someone who thinks it’s ok to squander company time and resources, rather than simply asking a question. Another example of that is the tendency to engage third parties on wasteful tasks. Sending a messenger to the same place twice in 66 asialife HCMC

a day because something was forgotten; calling lawyers or accountants and asking them questions that could be answered internally (for free); business cards that have to be re-printed because a spelling mistake wasn’t noticed, those kinds of things. They are all small, yes, but they add up. Work has to be done twice and there is a real cost to that, and it happens everywhere. So what are the signs? Someone who doesn’t ask questions but just heads off on his/her own, as this is almost guaranteed to squander resources. Someone who assumes that their own experience trumps whatever the new organisation’s procedures are. There’s nothing wrong with improving procedures, sure, but that has to be done properly and not by ignoring existing work rules and doing your own thing. Or someone who lacks an understanding of the organisation’s purpose, seeing their own job in a vacuum and forgetting how their work affects everyone else. This is the biggest warning sign. As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here. Gary Woollacott works for Horton International in Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English. Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops. Gaya 6/39A Tran Nao Street 12, D2 Tel: 3740 6009 www.gayavietnam.com Gaya is re launching with new name at the new location featuring the work of foreign designers: furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and other home accessories and outdoor furniture .

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces. Mai Home 92 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 08 62 818 399 MaiHomeDecor.com Producer of fine lacquerware lamps and furniture, Mai Home combines modern design with the traditional art of Vietnamese lacquer to create tasteful and durable homewares. Also provides worldwide shipping and customisable designs. The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets. Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others. Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects. Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 / www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards. Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

REAL ESTATE

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.


Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street / Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 / Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool. Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 / Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales. Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club. Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, D2 T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging

from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more. Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also provid-

ing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services. HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities. Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Crown Worldwide Movers 2ndFl 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com

Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/! 0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

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<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 / Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs. Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying & printing services.


listings

fashion By Ruben Luong

FASHION Field Note Fashion ‘Inspirasians’ You would be hard-pressed to find an Asian on the cover of a September fashion issue in America. Many Asians in fashion there are governing other stratums of the style stratosphere, and they are celebrated within the industry. In recent months, a talented and energetic set of ‘inspirasianal’ influencers have been making headlines and actively appearing at the forefront of mainstream fashion, thanks in part to social media. Here are five, but certainly not all, of these multi-hyphenated, hard-hitting style ‘inspirasians’ who are quickly becoming household names and whose philosophy and brand many are eagerly subscribing to. 1. Like English-Chinese model-journalist-designer Alexa Chung, Korean-American model-host-influencer Irene Kim has 600,000+ fans on Instagram (@ireneisgood) who worship her individuality. It practically runs through her rainbow-dyed hair. She is a model in ALDO’s latest ad campaign, a global contributor for beauty brand mogul Estée Lauder and a host for America’s K-Style and Korea’s Style Live. 2. Eva Chen, the former editor-in-chief of Lucky, became Instagram’s first head of fashion partnerships in July. Chen, a New Yorker whose parents immigrated from Taiwan and China, was a venerated fashion editor that mastered the art of the selfie (@evachen212). Her powerful Instagram gig illustrates fashion’s love affair 68 asialife HCMC

with the tech world and ecommerce possibilities. 3. In 2011, The New York Times described Joe Zee, former creative director of ELLE, as “a chatty and approachable ambassador of fashion who has aggressively thrust himself in front of [the masses] using Twitter, blogs, vlogs and –most visibly – television”. The Hong Kong-born Canadian continues to play that role as the EIC/ executive creative officer for Yahoo! Style, where he spearheads fashion content. 4. One of the most interesting Asian designers to watch now is Thai-Canadian Somsack Sikhounmuong. He made headlines in June when American heritage label J.Crew appointed him as head of women’s design after he helped increase sales for sister brand Madewell. If Sikhounmuong can also revive cult-favourite J.Crew, fashion will have a new hero. 5. Twenty-one-year-old Margaret Zhang is completing a Bachelor of Commerce/Law in Sydney, but she is also a famed writer, stylist, model, photographer and creative director. In July, the Chinese-Australian tastemaker became a face for Clinique. Her lifestyle is enviable. Just check out her chic Instagram (@margaret__zhang) or follow her incredibly sophisticated blog, Shinebythree. com. Ruben Luong is AsiaLIFE’s style editor. Contact him at ruben@ asialifemagazine.com.

ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more. Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices. Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night. Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes. Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses. Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available. Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags. Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade. Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres. Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear. Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. Emphasises muted tones and unobtrusive logos.

women

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches. Corner Boutique 23 Ly Tu Trong, 1st floor Tel: 012 36 310 099 Corner.com.vn Hidden on the first floor of a downtown apartment building, Corner Boutique boasts an elegant, eclectic collection of womenswear, accessories, handbags, shoes and small trinkets. Open daily from 9am to 9pm.


ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

TAILORS

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand. Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC.

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories. Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market. Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from. Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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Couch to 5K At a cost of $1.99, this runner-trainer offers a quick fix to new runners and those feeling out of shape, with a fairly light exercise program that promises users they’ll be ready to finish a 5km race in nine weeks.

The Best Song

Kaboom

Swipe through a Tinder-style interface on this music-discovery app to find your next favourite song. Or, if you’re dissatisfied with your own music taste, use it to turn your friends’ best songs into your personal radio.

Ever had your finger hovering over the ‘post’ button on Facebook, Twitter or WhatsApp, questioning whether it’s a good idea to tap? Don’t worry; Kaboom will self-destruct those contentious statuses after a specified time.

V

Angry Birds 2

Adobe Photoshop Mix

K-Pop and J-Pop fans are in for a treat thanks to this live broadcasting app which beams out shows and lots of interaction with stars including Bigbang, Jun Hyo Seong and Wonder Girls.

One of the titans of mobile games brings us more birdslinging, pig-exploding action in a new era of slingshot game play, with great graphics, hard levels, scheming boss pigs, and generally more destruction.

Replace your default photo editor on your phone with this simple yet impressive photoediting tool that features the usual bunch of trendy filters, letting you neatly cut out sections of pictures and splice them into new images.

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Marketing & Communications | PR Design | Video Production | Photography Web Solutions | Publications | Editorial Contact Tel: 0903325543 Mail: jonny@asialifemagazine.com


sound fix

Samantha Crain Under Branch & Thorn & Tree “When you come back could you bring my heart / It’s kinda hard livin’ since you took it so far” sings Samantha Crain on her fourth full-length, Under Branch & Thorn & Tree. In her indie rock

adaptation of Americana and folk, Crain tackles lost love with a refreshing bluntness. The 29-year-old Oklahoman of Choctaw heritage creates salt-of-the-earth music, under the production of John Vanderslice, who has also worked with Spoon. There are delicate, bucolic aspects of Crain’s acoustic music, but her edgy purr provides a sense of authenticity to her sound. Although she’s been touring for over a decade and earns repeated kudos from critics, Crain still records on independent labels and remains on the margins of the music industry. But Crain seems comfortable there, creating what she describes as protest songs that give voice to the voiceless. It’s clear her heart is right where it should be.

albuM review bY Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Royal Headache HIGH There’s a classic Pearl Jam lyric that states “It’s an art to live with pain / mix the light into gray”—words that sum up just what some of the best artists are able to do. Australian rockers Royal Headache craft music from heartache and frustration, producing a sound

that’s raucous, agitated, and entirely riveting. The quartet’s sophomore album may be less classically punk than its debut— even including ballad-like numbers “Wouldn’t You Know” and “Carolina”, which move at a honeyed pace—but it’s not lacking in boundless energy and raw emotion. Mononymous frontman Shogun’s bruised vocals paint a landscape of the complication and torment of love. Royal Headache knows that it’s in the gray, that netherworld of feeling, where things actually get interesting.

Benjamin Clementine

Transgressor

Tunde Olaniran ends one of his debut album’s tracks by chanting “Malia Obama”, the name of the American President’s elder daughter. That’s just one of several perplexing moments throughout Olaniran’s multi-genre record, which encompasses rap, EDM, pop, R&B, soul, and more. His kaleidoscopic approach includes shifting between a skilled array of vocal styles and range, as well as weaving eclectic elements like West African chanting and stuttering beats into catchy tunes. But even though the method to the madness is unclear, the result is crystal: Transgressor is a progressive romp of an album, orchestrated by a modern day Renaissance Man. In his non-musical life, the Nigerian-American native of Flint, Michigan is an LGBT activist and works for Planned Parenthood—and the passion he shows for social issues translates into his unique artistry.

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as i a .c o li f m er a d

A beautiful voice is a rare quality. But a musician who can also convey a powerful presence and make listeners feel moved is something truly elusive. Benjamin Clementine, a 25-year-old singer-songwriter, is one such diamond in the rough. Raised in North London and of Ghanaian descent, Clementine spent some time living and performing in the streets of Paris. A gifted vocalist and poetic lyricist, he taught himself how to play piano, drums, and guitar. At Least For Now is Clementine’s debut album, a handful of stunning numbers reminiscent of the great Nina Simone’s work. There’s also some Jeff Buckley to be heard in the most vulnerable depths of his sound and a flash of Antony Hegarty in the more theatrical flourishes. But though Clementine may bring other talents to mind, he creates music that is transcendently his own.

io

At Least For Now


The Beat

Gig List

Coming up in September A sampling of Saigon's music scene

4

23

September, 8pm J ef f r ey L ewis a nd th e J r a m s

September, 3pm Re gg a e Side -Up

11

29 September

@Cargo Entry: VND 250,000 advance / VND 300,000 door Folk meets punk

September, 9pm DJ Jan O b er l a end e r @The Observatory Entry: Free until 11pm / VND 150,000 after Dance

@Saigon Outcast Entry: Free Reggae

Sk rille x @Lush Entry: TBC EDM

A Splendid Muddy Mess. By Shells-Bells This year’s Splendour in the Grass saw 30,000 people descend on Northern Byron Bay in New South Wales, Australia for three days of music, mud and madness! The rain, the squishy knee-high mud, the flying objects in the crowds (including Christmas trees and couches), the bodies falling into the crowd and let’s not forget the fashion, all contributed to the mayhem and what could have been one of the best Splendours ever! With such major international acts as Blur, Florence and the Machine, Of Monsters and Men and The Wombats, it’s hard to cover it all but here are some standouts worthy of a mention. Aussie pop band San Cisco got the young, hipster crowd grooving to their cutesy tune Awkward and another song Runoff from their new album, Gracetown. Fun, happy, catchy songs made this set most enjoyable. The Rubens followed and breezed through their rock and roll tunes, which saw a huge crowd sing-along to My Gun and a rousing finish with their new song Hallelujah. These guys have come a long way with their new song Hoops, the title track of their new album is definitely worth a listen. On day two, the Wombats definitely wowed, however, there were also some smaller acts that were all winners! Liverpool four piece band Circa Waves kicked the day off in the amphitheatre. Playing together since 2013, this is already their second Splendour. Boy and Bear finished off the night on the GW McLennan stage. Older hits, including Feeding Line

and Southern Sun were crowd pleaders, while Walk the Wire is a great new song from their new album, Limit of Love which is expected to be released in October. Looking forward to this one. The final day saw action packed sets from headliners Blur, Tame Impala and Royal Blood. However, there were numerous other acts that made Splendour’s last day for 2015 unforgettable including Bad// Dreems, The Delta Riggs, Wolf Alice, The Vaccines and Jamie T. Local boys The Delta Riggs followed and sent out some brilliant rock‘n’roll and blues-based vibes. Opening with Supersonic Casualties, frontman Elliott Hammond entertained the crowd with his banter, groovy moves and swagger. Some memorable harmonica solos and a tambourine smash that saw pieces fly into the crowd made this a standout performance. Wolf Alice were another standout of the day. A four-piece band from London, they gave it their all. The lead singer Ellie Rowsell’s strong voice (a cross between Blondie and Kim Gordon), mixed with 90s nostalgia rock make their songs unique. This is a band with a lot of potential. As the sun went down the massive sounds of English rock duo Royal Blood belted through the amphitheatre. They played a thunderously loud but perfectly polished show to a huge crowd. The opener, Come on Over, was followed by Little Monster and then Ten Tonne Skeleton, which triumphed. So that was Splendour. A three day musical marathon of tremendous talent! Anyone into music should be there in 2016! asialife HCMC 75


SUB TOPICAL HEAT

While avoiding doing something else, Bradley Green ponders how to overcome the urge to do nothing.

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t’s 2AM on a Wednesday morning, the cigarette butts in the ashtray are piling up and I’m no closer to getting things done - I mean anything - this ranges from research for an excursion I was planning on taking, or getting round to replying to my poor worried mother’s email, and then there’s finding my landlord to give him the overdue rent, or simply taking the bins out. It’s a fact, I’m a procrastinator extraordinaire. If I’m honest, procrastination is very close to laziness. It is however far easier to tell yourself it’s the former rather than being bone idol. Let’s look at the facts, in regards to having not taken the bins out, no thought has to go into this, there is nothing to dwell on. Unless you’re trying to maximise rubbish output whilst minimising trips taken (that took longer than putting the bins out) there really are no excuses. How about my poor mother who just wants to know her little boy’s teeth and limbs are still intact, just respond to her message Bradley! Now this isn’t a good habit to have but you can somewhat use it to your advantage. Step 1- find yourself an important

task you know you will inevitably put off at various stages. Step 2- try and fail to keep concentration on said task. Step 3- whilst avoiding ‘the task’ you will end up mindlessly tidying the flat, taking the bins out, and messaging your mum at long last. “But what about the main objective?” I here you cry. Easy, just find another even more problematic task in order to use the same method to complete the original ‘task’. And from there, you’re on your own. It feels like procrastination is a relatively new thing that many of us suffer from, although I bet even the ancient Egyptian’s were scratching their heads and sacrificing the odd person so that they could turn a blind eye to the almighty task of constructing the pyramids. Well, perhaps the aliens came to lend a hand. “Rome wasn’t built in a day”, well of course not, Romulus had to first kill his brother Remus, and if you ask me that’s some pretty big divergence from the town blueprints. How about the industrial revolution, it helped the world kick on massively, but you know that took years of pondering over ales and distraction from

wenches. It’s definitely been going on for millennia. Sorry, had to water the plants, or change a light bulb. Where was I? So a while ago I thought as I became more responsible and independent all this would change, I’d grow out of it and everything would be completed in a dash. Yet, it would seem while I’m rapidly approaching 27, I’ve grown into it. With age the tasks, chores and errands pile up, and I’m still trying to figure out how to send a postcard home down at the Central post office. Anyway I must be going, I have to spend a couple of hours looking at the dirty washing before wondering whether today is actually the day to put a wash on. Toodle.


N gO Focus

East Meets West (EMW) started in 1988 in Vietnam and the US as an organization dedicated to healing the wounds of the war between the two countries. Since then, East Meets West has invested over $120 million and assisted over six million people in high-impact, results-oriented programs in health, clean water, sanitation, and education and has expanded globally. EMW’s Van Ly details some of the foundation’s work.

EAST M EETS W EST 3,000 SCHOLARSHIPS DISTRIBUTED TO MIDDLE AND HIGH SCHOOLERS August and September are the busiest time of year for the East Meets West education team in Danang. This is when they finalise SPELL scholarship packages to support thousands of disadvantaged middle school and high school students in seven provinces of central Vietnam. In 2004, EMW launched SPELL as an anti-dropout program to help disadvantaged Vietnamese students transcend the cycle of poverty. SPELL supports students from the bottom 10 percent of impoverished families in seven provinces of central Vietnam: Quang Binh, Thua Thien-Hue, Da Nang, Quang Nam, Quang Ngai, Binh Dinh and Phu Yen. The cost of keeping a child in school in Vietnam, US $80 a year for secondary school and $240 a year for high school, is beyond the reach of many

impoverished families. By supporting families with the cost of school expenses, including tuition, insurance, tutoring, school uniforms, books, and sometimes bicycles, SPELL helps students stay in school. In 11 years, SPELL has provided support for a total of 5,790 middle and high school students. Each year, an increasing number of students in the SPELL program show progress in their academic performance, and are admitted to specialised high schools in each province. Additionally, many of SPELL’s scholarship recipients win municipal, provincial, and national awards for their academic achievements. In the school year 2014-2015, EMW invested $557,000USD (11.7 billion VND) to support the education of nearly 2,500 disadvantaged middle and high school students. For the upcoming school year 2015-2016, EMW will provide

an additional 583 students in grade 9 with multiple-year scholarships. In addition to the scholarships for middle school and high school students, East Meets West also supports 170 university students pursuing a four-year undergraduate degree in universities in Danang, Hue, Quy Nhon, and Ho Chi Minh City. SCHOOL ORAL HEALTH PROGRAM REACHES 225 SCHOOLS EMW is also in the process of winding down an ambitious school oral health program in six provinces of northern and central Vietnam. While dental care is often not seen as priority health care in Western countries, the lack of access to dental care for children in developing countries has been linked to malnutrition, a higher rate in school absenteeism and lower rate of school performance. Since early 2014, with funding from Ronald McDonald House

Charities in the United States, EMW’s oral health team has carried out two rounds of training for 225 school nurses in preventive dental treatment and oral health promotion. To get an idea of how poor oral health is among children in rural communities, EMW and the school nurses found that over 90 percent of the 1,341 children ages four to eight who were screened in just six schools had signs of poor oral hygiene and tooth decay. In the majority of cases there were at least three decayed, missing, or filled teeth. For the next few months, as part of the program’s focus on cavity prevention, EMW will assist the nurses in carrying out oral health promotion events in each province. EMW will organize interactive classroom activities that nurses can use to teach children about the importance of daily tooth brushing and eating the right foods.

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HISTORY

ENTERTAINMENT 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

The Steven Spielberg adaption of the War of the Worlds by H.G Wells is set in New Jersey but where is the story set in the book? Who played the role of Dr. Ian Malcom in 1993’s Jurassic Park? Who was the first (and so far only) female to win an Oscar for best director? When and where was the first FIFA world cup to be held outside of Europe or South America? Which country has the lowest number of Olympic medals per capita?

Responsible for Publication: Director Nguyễn Thế Sơn Responsible for Content: Chief Editor Lê Thị Thu Hương Editors: Phương Lam Giang Trần Ngọc Thương Designed by: ASIALIFE ADVERTISING LIMITED Cover & content by: ASIALIFE ADVERTISING LIMITED VIETNAM NEWS AGENCY PUBLISHING HOUSE 116 – 118 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3 Publishing Corporation: ASIALIFE ADVERTISING LIMITED Printed 2000 copies, size 20,5cm x 27cm, at ITAXA Printing House Address: 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3 Publishing license number: 2181 - 2015 /CXBIPH/01 - 58/ThT. Designation number 210/QĐ - NXBTT issued on 24/August/2015 Printed and submitted for archive in Sep, 2015 ISBN: 978-604-945-173-7

Geography 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

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The Amunsden Scott Station is located where? How many UN member countries are there in South America? What is the largest country that is fully in the southern Hemisphere? What do the flags of Ghana, Cameroon, Cuba, Somalia and Turkey all have in common? Which country am I? I am on the shores of the Caspian sea, I am one of the fastest growing economies in the region, The European F1 Grand Prix will be held in my capital Baku in 2015.

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SCIENCE

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Dry ice is a frozen form of which gas? Which is the largest species of tiger? What type of creature is a gastropod? What is the name of the blood condition that gives immunity to Malaria but causes severe blood clotting and originated in Africa? Lateral Epicondylitis is an injury associated with sport. What is it’s common name?

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General Knowledge 1. 2.

3. 4. 5.

Where is Vietnam in the list of the world’s most populous countries? Name the year: the PlayStation 2 is released, a Concorde plane crashes in to a Paris hotel meaning the beginning of the end for the aircraft and Bush Vs Gore ruled against a recount in the US election. Which famous musician was born Reginald Dwight? What was the name of the first James Bond book? Which City was formed after an agreement between indigenous tribes and John Batman in 1835?

For more mindless trivia, join The Tavern's weekly pub quiz every Wednesday at 8.30pm. The Tavern is located at R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7. 78 asialife HCMC

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History: English Civil War, Harvard, Chile, Spanish Influenza, Valhalla. Entertainment: Woking, Jeff Goldblum, Kathryn Bigelow, Mexico 1970, India. Geography: South Pole, Antarctica,12, Australia, A single star, Azerbaijan Science: Carbon Dioxide, Siberian, Snails and Slugs, Sickle Cell Anemia, Tennis Elbow General Knowledge:13th, 2000, Elton John, Casino Royale, Melbourne

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Pub Quiz Answers

1. In which war was the battle of Edgehill and the battle of Marston moor? 2. Founded in 1636, what is the oldest university in the USA? 3. Augusto Pinochet who died in 2006, ruled which country? 4. Which disease that inflicted the world almost directly after WW1 killed more people than the war itself? 5. What was the Viking afterlife better known as?


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