AsiaLIFE Vietnam February 2017

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 107

A walk through history Delving deep into grief A nomad’s life

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

FEBRUARY 2017

VOLUME 107

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 107

| FEBRUARY 2017

This month's cover Photography: Vinh Dao

A walk through history Delving deep into grief A nomad’s life

INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

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www. AsiaLIFEmagazine.com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director Elijah Ferrian elijah@asialifemagazine.com

Art Director

Editor

Thang Pham L.C. leo@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor

Peter Cornish peter.cornish@asialifemagazine.com

Commercial Director Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Tran Huynh Cam Tu Tegan Chapman Adina Weinand

Production Manager

Vinh Dao photoeditor@asialifemagazine.com

Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com

FRONT

FOOD & DRINK

EVENTS ............................................................... 06 TOP 5 NEW HAPPY HOURS. . ......................... 10 Q &A Myke Nguyen....................................................... 14 BUSINESS VIEW.................................................. 16 DAY IN THE LIFE................................................ 18 TRENDING.......................................................... 19

FOOD NEWS

C OV E R STO RY

Best Amer ican bar in town? . . ............................ 44

LOOKING UP FOR PETS

Vietnamese answer to r iverfront dining........ 45

Life & Pets in Vietnam. . ...................................... 20

F E AT U R E S THE POP UP SAIGON

Culinar y delights for charity............................. 2 6

Savour ing the tastier side of Saigon life........ 4 0

LOCAL EATS

Mien Xao Cua.. .................................................... 4 1

TROPICANA

New rooftop bar.. ............................................... 4 2

3 BUFFALOS RESTAURANT

Meat on meat on meat...................................... 4 3

FAT SHAGGY’S

THE RIVER CAFE RESTAURANT

STYLE & DESIGN MIX & PAINT

New venue for all things ar t............................ 46

TSAFARI

A WALK THROUGH HISTORY

Vietnamese clothing br and............................... 4 8

DELVING DEEP INTO GRIEF

COLUMNS

Scouring India . . ..................................................... 2 8 New book by Vietnam-based author.............. 3 0

CURRY: ACROSS THE GLOBE IN SAIGON

Where to find the best curries........................ 3 2

T R AV E L AO NANG

Popular Thai destination has more . . ................ 36

A NOMAD’S LIFE

A Mongolian countr yside adventure.. ............. 38

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IMBIBE ............................................................................. 56 FITNESS .......................................................................... 58 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 62 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 63 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 64 ARTS & CRAFTS JOURNAL ................................ 65 APP CHAT .................................................................... 6 8 SUB-TOPICAL HEAT ................................................ 72 COMMUNITY FOCUS ............................................ 73 PUB QUIZ ..................................................................... 74

EVENTS

9 FEB 9pm

Kiss to Kizz Kizomba Night @Cuba La Casa del Mojito Entry: Free Join the new weekly event of Cuba la Casa del Mojito and get into Angolan Dance Styles with Kizomba - one of the most popular genres of dance originating in Angola. Unlike Semba, Kizomba music and dance is characterised by a slower and usually very romantic rhythm. Go party at Cuba la Casa del Mojito during 100% KIZOMBA NIGHT!

7 FEB 9pm

Thursday Hip Hop Nation @Play Entry: Free Expert Hip Hop head DJs Phat Beatz and charming Amilli will take over Play every Thursday night for a massive evening of Rap tunes. If you’re a die hard Hip Hop fan, DJ Phat Beatz is the mixer with the most, and will be spinning his soundtrack all night long.

Acoustic Vietnam Unplugged @Hard Rock Cafe - HCMC Entry: Free Rock out acoustic-style with Paradox Band. Be closer with your dear loved ones, or even people you hate while joining the Acoustic Vietnam Unplugged at Hard Rock CafĂŠ with some socially lubricating food and drinks.

9 FEB 9pm

Ladies Night @Piu Piu Entry: Free Every Thursday, go chill on the Piu Piu Rooftop with the French groovemaster Dj Konka on the decks, and their Piu Piu Mixologist Thibault creating different cocktails live at the bar for you to taste. Free Strongbow ciders & cocktails for women from 9pm to midnight.

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10 FEB

7pm - 8pm

Would you like to learn alongside the best academic students in Vietnam?

Many congratulations to Josephine, who has been awarded four “Top in Vietnam� awards.

(Biology, Chemistry, Physics, and Foreign Language French)

ABC International School students were awarded 38% of all Cambridge International Examinations Outstanding Learner Awards in Vietnam.

We would also like to congratulate Kim Chaeyoung, Chac My Ky and Chang Woosung for achieving the joint highest score in the world in Foreign Language Mandarin Chinese.

www.theabcis.com

Lush Ladies Night @Lush Entry: TBD Lush Ladies Night is where you should go on a Tuesday.

The night is dedicated just to the ladies with free drinks until 12PM. The hottest resident DJs keep the party going till late, spinning the best in Hip-Hop, Top 40, and mashups. This is definitely the craziest and most wellknown ladies night in Saigon.

Seafood Buffet @Sofitel Saigon Plaza Entry: VND1,350,000 Indulge yourself at Sofitel’s lavish seafood buffet every Friday and Saturday night. Choose from their impressive array of lobster, crab, oysters, tiger prawn, mussels, scallops, as well as fresh sashimi and sushi and mouth-watering ocean themed desserts in the welcoming ambience of Mezz restaurant. Includes French house wine, beer and soft drinks. Price is subject to 5% service charge and 10% VAT.

10 FEB

21 FEB

9pm - Late

6.30pm 10.30pm

Diner en Blanc HCMC @Secret Location Entry: TBD

Beautiful Ladies Night @Chill Sky Bar Entry: Free

22 FEB 9pm

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Gather your beautiful female friends and join Chill Skybar for the “Beautiful Ladies Night” every Wednesday with an exclusive offer to all ladies. With a group of 4 ladies or more, enjoy a complimentary bottle of Sparkling Rosé while dancing to the beats spun by our resident DJs! Get dressed up, grab your girls and shine brightly under the stars on Chill Skybar’s rooftop!

Launched with just a handful of friends by François Pasquier nearly 30 years ago, Le Diner en Blanc de Paris now assembles over 10,000 guest every year, with a record 15,000 people attending the 25th anniversary in 2013. The French capital’s most prestigious sites have played host to the event over the years: The Pont des Arts, the Eiffel Tower, Place Vendôme, the Château de Versailles, the periphery of the Place de l’Étoile, and the ChampsÉlysées... Now it’s Saigon’s turn.

25 FEB 6pm

M A R L B O R O U G H C O L L E G E M A L AY S I A

A Great British Education

Located in 90 acres of South-East Asia Pupils are taught a British curriculum from British educators who know the value of heritage and tradition. For over 170 years Marlborough College has been synonymous with a first-class British education. Now in 90 acres of South-East Asia we

offer our pupils the same opportunity to learn and to grow from the wisdom of those who have gone before them. We are a co-educational Preparatory and Senior School offering an outstanding education for pupils aged 4-18.

For details of our forthcoming Admissions Events visit: w w w . m a r l b o r o u g h c o l l e g e . m y

TOP FIVE

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Happy Hours are an essential component to making it through daily life in any city. We have had our fair share of experience when it comes to a two-for-one pint, or the beauty of walking into a bar and finding that a mouthwatering burger is magnificently paired with a drink of choice for a discounted price.

We decided to compile a list of some of the best new happy hours for those that are new to Ho Chi Minh City, and for those that know all about the standby specials at Saigon fixtures Dailo’s Kitchen and Bar, and Bar 5.

Enjoy... in moderation. Photo by Vinh Dao.

“The grill that brought a fully grown man to tears” Chef Dragan

C

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CHANH BISTRO Happy hours at Chanh Bistro Rooftop Saigon: Everyday 2pm – 6:30pm, buy one get one free on house wine by–theglass, cocktails and standard spirits with mixer. Also get a free draft Tiger beer with any burger.

Chanh Bistro Rooftop offers the perfect location for a late lunch or a sunset gathering with friends or colleagues. Located on floor 6, 43-45 Ho Tung Mau, in the shade of the Bitexco Financial Tower and opposite the Sky Deck entrance, the bar has indoor and outdoor seating that offers impressive views of the river below from two separate terraces.

Known for the casual, romantic nature of their rooftop, they offer an array of Western and international dishes, with a standout stewed lamb shank and vegetable tian served with creamy potato gratin that’s a must-try. They also offer some interesting options for vegetarians, including a cheesy spinach ravioli. The drinks are reasonably priced for such a central location, with house wines starting from 90k and cocktails from 120k. Give their Grey Martini or the Viet Espresso Martini a try if you’re after something special.

Authentic Serbian Wood Fired Grill 279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.kod3bika.com

JAKES Happy Hours: Everyday 3pm-6pm buy one get one free (Tiger draft, absolute, Jim Beam, Gordon’s, Bacardi, Jose Cuervo).

Located next door to Number 5 Bar on Pasteur, Jake’s BBQ brings some classic Americana to Saigon, and if you’re looking for good food, cold beer and friendly atmosphere then come on over. This is the place for you.

Some locals swear he does the best burger in town, a title once held by the bar’s previous incarnation, Mogambo’s. But whatever your opinion, a 30% discount on all appetizers daily between 3pm and 6pm, this is a place to stop off for a bite to eat, as well as a cheap beer.

As well as free, freshly made popcorn to compliment your drink, the signature cheese fries combined with homemade, in-house cured, cherry and oak smoked bacon is a sure-fire winner for all who like to chow down on a bit of pork. Jake’s is not really a sports bar, but shows all major sporting events from around the world and has over 30 different channels to choose from. The selection of music is just as broad, with an emphasis on American Rock & Roll and classic Country & Western. A great place for kicking back with a cold brew and munching on some great appetizers.

MALT Happy Hours: Everyday from open (2pm on Weekdays, 12pm on weekends) until 7pm.

Discounted prices on local craft beers, domestic beer bottles, cocktails, mixed drinks and wines.

10% off all bar bites.

Malt is a cosy, non-smoking bar located at 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, downtown Saigon, which offers a selection of entertainment including darts and the city’s only shuffleboard. The bar has a fine selection of craft beers on tap as well as signature cocktails and an impressive collection of single malt whiskies.

They serve excellent food, including home style favourites, such as their garlic parmesan garlic truffle fries, Reuben sandwich and many more bites to keep you full and happy all night.

Malt’s unpretentious vibe and casual atmosphere will have you feeling at home. It’s a perfect place to meet up with friends after work to wash away those Monday to Friday blues or spend a lazy weekend afternoon catching up. Malt is also available to host all your special events from work parties, birthdays and team get togethers. Their special events are quickly becoming the talk of the town with a chili cook-off, shuffle board/darts tournaments, live music and quiz nights bringing people together for lots of laughs, good food and of course good beer!

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WINDY CITY

RACHA ROOM

Happy Hours: 4-7pm Tues-Sun all craft draft beers are only 40k each. All you can drink Tiger draft for just 120k.

Located at 88 Street 23, behind Lottemart in D7, Windy City Diner brings a touch of Chi-Town to one of the outer districts of Saigon. Serving Chicago-style comfort food in a casual neighbourhood setting, this is a place for those craving nice chili dogs, an Italian ice, or just to wrap themselves into a comfortable food-hug of familiarity. As well as pouring some of the cheapest craft beer in town, WCD offers the hungry some hard-to-beat meaty promotions on different days of the week.

Sunday evenings from 4pm till 9pm is one huge sausage fest with hot dogs for just 40k and a choice of Polish or Italian sausages for just 60k, served fresh off the patio grill. Wash your meat mouthfuls down with a glass of shandy, just 30k all day Sunday. Wednesdays are for reggae vibes and buffalo wings.

Made with real Frank’s Hot Sauce and served with a choice of blue cheese or ranch dressing, the buffalo wings are just 10k (minimum order 6), and with reggae riddims playing in the background they wash down well with a glass of craft beer.

Happy Hours: Mon - Sat: 5pm - 8pm 50% off alcoholic drinks by the glass. It’s not applicable to: Wine by bottle, spirits by bottle, Pasteur Street beer, Special cocktail of the month.

The Racha Room, Racha meaning “Royal” in Thai language, is located at 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi in D1. They are known for their delicious Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine, with a focus on premium quality ingredients and served to share with friends. Apart from being well known for the cuisine, The Racha Room has recently introduced a specially curated cocktail list from mixologist Greg Jacob, using a combination of modern and classic techniques such as barrel ageing and smoke infusions.

When Greg is doing his stuff, expect to see the unexpected with his personal twist on some of the classics. Try his specialities, like a Vermouth barrel-aged Negroni, or a spicy ‘Hot n Stormy’ which plays on the ubiquitous Dark n Stormy, with chili, kumquat and local sugar cane juice.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try the experimental and cutting edge concoctions like ‘The Dragon Fist’ - a wasabi infused Gin cucumber cocktail, or perhaps one of the favourites with the ladies: ‘The Concubine’, where vodka meets lychee and elderflower. Whichever appeals, The Racha Rooms shows us what the future of Asian inspired eating and drinking looks like.

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Q&A

14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Elijah Ferrian picks the brain of the successful Vietnam Basketball Academy coach, and discusses inspiring people from all walks of life.

Photo by Vinh Dao. Vietnamese basketball. What’s your background in the sport?

I have always been fascinated by basketball.

When I was young, I taught myself how to dribble, pass, shoot, and play defense. I learned more by watching my neighbours, especially the mental strategy of the game.

It was a lot of fun. It was basically ‘street basketball.’

When I arrived in Vietnam in the early 90s, I played basketball with friends at the old Phan Dinh Phung courts. That’s where I met a tall, young local coach named Ms. Nga. She had never seen the “streetball style” of basketball, where I would do behind the back passes, bouncing the ball through my defenders legs, and throw the ball off the backboard to pass to my teammates. She also noticed that I would direct the players around like moving chess pieces in a chess match.

She approached me after one game to ask if I would be interested in helping her coach a local youth boys’ basketball team.

I had some part-time experience coaching in the States so I said, “Sure why not?”

What led you to launching the Vietnam Basketball Academy?

Before helping to coach the local Vietnamese basketball players, I volunteered to coach kids programmes in the States.

The longer I coached, the more players began to share with me how much of a positive impact I was making in their lives.

I noticed that the more I taught players the game of basketball, the more enthusiastic and happy life was for them, and for myself as well.

So, in 2010, with the help of my family, we decided to launch the Vietnam Basketball Academy. Our goal is to help the youth in Vietnam to learn the physical and mental skills of the game, while also having a great, fun time.

Tell us about your organisation’s two initiatives: the “Coaching Skills Programme”, and “Vietnam Youth Basketball League”.

We believe that in order for the sport of basketball to grow in Vietnam, the younger generation will need people who have the skill set to teach them how to play the right

way, and how to master the fundamental skills of the game.

In 2016, we created a Coaching Skills Programme to teach local coaches the mental and physical tools of how to be a great coach and a skills trainer. The programme teaches the local coaches how to manage small and large groups of players, what should be taught for certain age groups, and how to effectively communicate with players who have strong, or low self-esteem.

The second initiative that we launched in 2016 was our Vietnam Youth Basketball League. We wanted to create a community programme where the local and expat community can come together and have fun. We wanted to establish a positive and supportive environment for students to build their confidence and to believe in themselves. To see their own abilities through the sport of basketball.

The Vietnam Youth Basketball League is also an opportunity for new and longtime residents living in Saigon to get to know one another, and be part of this great community that is made up of many different nationalities, cultures and diverse backgrounds. This is a community league where we have paid coaches working side by side with volunteer parent coaches.

One of my responsibilities is to help mold and develop my players not only as athletes, but also as great people.

What is your philosophy regarding coaching and its relationship to education and successful growth for young people?

My coaching philosophy goes in line with what some of my priorities are in my own life. I believe in hard work and dedication.

I believe in teamwork, playing unselfishly, respect for the game and respect towards each other. I believe in honest communication, having a positive attitude,

and always having fun playing the game.

These are simple ideas, but they are not always easy to implement consistently.

Coaches are also teachers. I have a great opportunity to teach my players about basketball, but more importantly, to teach them about taking responsibility. Being a good son or daughter, a good brother or sister, being a great human being that can impact the world in a positive way. It’s about being a role model both on the court and off.

What are the most important character building qualities to teach your players?

I emphasise patience, honesty, hard work, self motivation, teamwork, leading by example, respect each other’s achievements, unselfishness and always trying to be positive and happy.

Describe your role as coach, as a motivator. What techniques do you use to motivate your players? How do you get them to believe in their abilities and their roles as basketball players each year?

I believe a coach is not only a mentor, but also a teacher. One of my responsibilities is to help mold and develop my players not only as athletes, but also as great people.

I try to motivate my players by helping them to understand that although some of us are taller, shorter, bigger, slower or less athletic, there is one thing we all have in common: we all love to play fun games. I try to inspire and instill confidence in each of my player by playing fun games that may or may not involve a basketball. I created these games to help each player to not focus on basketball itself, but just on having fun and enjoying their time together with me and their teammates. While they are doing this, they are learning the fundamentals of basketball. In some ways, they learn this without even knowing it.

Every player is different, so I try to adapt to each player as best as I can. Some have a lot of confidence in themselves, while others lack self-esteem. I take baby steps with each player by first explaining a specific basketball drill, and why we are doing it, and then I demonstrate it so that they can visually see it how it’s done. Once they have seen it, I have them try it out. Then, step by step, they are able to do it on their own without me having to show them.

Who is your greatest role model either personally, or as a coach?

My greatest role model outside of coaching circles are my older sisters. They taught me about patience, being responsible, and showing compassion to others. Learning to respect myself and my players, learning to get involved in the community to help make a positive impact on society.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 15

BUSINESS VIEW

Business wages rise in Vietnam in 2016

GOVERNER of Vietnam’s State Bank Le Minh Hung said at a VietinBank 2017 business plan meeting in Hanoi on January 9 that a legal framework should be designed in a way that facilitates the settlement of bad debts and the restructuring of the banking system.

The State Bank of Vietnam (SBV) will coordinate with relevant agencies to build a law on settlement of bad debt and restructuring of banks.

Regulations on cross ownership in the banking system should be made clear while rules for ensuring safety for the system should be improved. More than 50% of bank loans come with medium and long terms while medium- and long-term deposits account for 13-15% of the total, exposing lender banks to big risk.

Banks tend to make more loans to high-risk real estate, build-operate (BT) and build-operate-transfer (BOT) road

projects and corporate bond purchases.

The central bank this year will issue rules protecting the banking system from those risks. Banks have achieved positive results in settlement of bad debt by making risk provisions.

The SBV told leaders of banks to evaluate the quality of loans, especially big ones, and corporate bonds, and classify debts to take precautionary measures.

Source: VietnamNet.

Cyber attack losses increase in 2016 COMPUTER viruses caused losses of VND10.4 trillion (US$470 million) in 2016, surpassing the VND8.7 trillion the year before, according to the latest report from the BKAV Technology Group.

Ransomware, viruses spreading through USB, spam messages and cyber attacks were major problems last year, the report said.

Ransomware is computer malware that installs covertly on a victim’s computer, executes a cryptovirology attack, and demands a ransom to decrypt it or not publish it. Last year saw a boom in ransomware, with 16 per cent of emails having ransomware, 20 times the 2015 figure. Viruses spreading through USBs continued to grow in 2016 despite the efforts of Microsoft to cut the “auto run” function. Around 83 per cent of USBs had been affected by viruses last year, the same as in 2015. Around 16 million computers were affected by viruses through USBs. Last year 50 per cent of 16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

users persisted with their habit of opening file attachments in emails, the same as the year before. In the report, BKAV appreciated the efforts of Facebook and mobile phone service providers to restrict spam messages.

An advanced persistent threat (APT), a

network attack in which an unauthorised person gains access to a network and stays there undetected for a long period of time, was another threat, one that successfully attacked Vietnam Airlines in July.

Source: Vietnam News.

NEWS

IN BRIEF Conference ON elephant conservation

Patient satisfaction is top priority: Prime Minister SHORING up medical services at the grass-roots level and providing health services to all the people will remain the focus of the health sector in 2017, Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc has stated.

The PM made the statement while attending the Health Ministry’s conference in Ha Noi yesterday aimed at setting out tasks for 2017. He lauded the achievements of the health sector last year, including the work undertaken in the preventive healthcare field. No outbreak of any disease took place in 2016. Efforts were made to ensure that major hospitals

were not overcrowded and people could access improved medical facilities, he said, adding that the capacity of human resources also increased. He highlighted the fact that 61 per cent of the population was brought under health insurance in Viet Nam last year, surpassing the goal set for 2020. He pointed out the progress made in health financing mechanism and food safety and putting in place a mechanism for drug auctions. He informed that 6,000 medical staffers face punitive action in cases of wrongdoing.

Source: Vietnam News.

Only around 100 wild elephants, and an additional 60 in captivity, remain in Vietnam, with most living in Dak Lak, Dong Nai and Nghe An provinces, a conference on elephant conservation heard on Wednesday.

At the three-day event in the Central Highland province of Dak Lak, the Vietnam Administration of Forestry said elephants in the country face a high risk of extinction.

To address the situation, the Vietnamese Government has issued several policies aimed at preserving the domestic elephant herd, including a master plan for 2013-2020.

VietNam giants post record profits

Hanoi - Two giant State-owned corporations, Vietnam National Petroleum Group (Petrolimex) and Vietnam Steel Corporation (VNSTEEL), achieved record profits last year, according to a conference held by the Party Organisation of the Central Enterprises Bloc. Petrolimex earned more than VND6.2 trillion in profit, reaching 158 percent of its yearly target, and a return on equity rate of 50 per cent. Meanwhile, VNSTEEL was estimated to increase its revenue by 6 per cent to touch VND18.3 trillion, making pre-tax profit of VND600 billion, a year-on-year rise of 108 per cent.

Taxation of Export Processing Enterprises It is becoming easier to trade across borders from Vietnam, according to the World Bank’s Doing Business Guide. Due in a large part to Vietnam’s proximity to China and the country’s access to the ASEAN free trade area, exports of goods added up to over US$170 billion in 2016. The government expects export sales to be one of the key drivers for economic growth in 2017, and is targeting a 6.7 percent increase in the value of exports this year.

Import-export office warns of international trade swindles THE Import and Export Department under the Ministry of Industry and Trade on Wednesday recommended firms study their trade partners carefully in order to avoid risks in international trade.

The warning was raised after several domestic export firms were reportedly swindled in international trade. Recently, some seafood exporters faced the risk of losing hundreds of thousands of dollars with trade partner Echopack Inc, represented by Jason Brown in Quebec, Canada, the ministry said in a note on its website. Payment for these

export batches would all be conducted through a letter of credit (L/C) method provided by General Equity bank based in New Zealand, which was selected as Echopack’s representative.The swindles were reported by the Vietnam Association of Seafood Exporters and Producers at a conference late last week. The association said that Echopack and General Equity colluded with each other in letter of credit procedures to import goods from Vietnam but refused payment as the letter of credit documents were invalid.

Source: Vietnam News.

Online firm registration to boom in 2017 Statistics showed that the rate of enterprises registering online nationwide was 14 per cent last year. However, the rate in the fourth quarter was more than 35 per cent, exceeding Government targets. In terms of cities and provinces, the rate of enterprises registering online in Ha Noi was 18 per cent for the whole year last year and 51 per cent in the fourth quarter. In HCM City, the rates were 25.4 per cent for the year and 62.1 per cent for the fourth quarter. Of these, Hue and Da Nang are leading in innovating supporting methods and encouraging enterprises to register onlinee.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

DAY IN THE LIFE

Spa Owner and Operator

Quyen Nguyen

By Peter Cornish. Photo by Vinh Dao.

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

S

oi Spa can be found on the 6th floor and rooftop of 44 Nguyen Hue, overlooking Sunwah Tower. Founded

by Quyen Nguyen, the concept is simple – to provide an instant getaway, affordable and for people with hectic lifestyles.

Situated in the middle of District 1, it’s proving popular with the city’s many office workers attracted to the high-end service, reasonable prices and the opportunity to escape their busy lives, if only for a short time.

Quyen understands her customers well – a former Brand Manager in the retail industry, she was once one of them. Constantly strapped for time, she struggled with getting her hair and nails done and had limited choices where to go. High-end spas charged exorbitant prices for a young professional, and more affordable places didn’t provide the experience she was looking for.

What she wanted as much as getting her hair done was somewhere to get away from it all. Somewhere to switch off for a while, if only an hour. Somewhere to chillax at lunchtime and get her nails done. Or pamper for the evening ahead after a busy day at work. “I wanted somewhere for the young professional who works hard but spends wisely” she explains to me.

Quyen describes her customers as millennials. “They work hard”, she tells me.

“They are cultured, well-travelled and have a high sense of aesthetics. They want the better things in life but are prudent with their money.

I wanted to create a space for them to feel relaxed in, pampered, but at a price they feel comfortable paying. This was my vision, my concept. Something new, different”.

Excited, she took the plunge, quit her job and set about looking for a suitable location. “I was lucky. A friend of mine told me of premises on Nguyen Hue with a rooftop. It was perfect.

How many spas do you know where you can relax on a terrace, with a glass of wine, watch the sunset and have your nails done at the same time?” she asks me.

“Soi means pebble in Vietnamese”, Quyen explains, and the reception area is a sea of small, polished stones set into a coloured concrete and that leads the way into the treatment room. “I wanted to create a space that feels natural, yet clean and clear at the same time”.

The walls are white with aquatic murals, and a timbered beam ceiling gives the space a slight rustic feel. The two walls facing out over Nguyen Hue are glass, filling the room with natural light and offering great views of the pedestrian street below.

The downstairs treatment area can accommodate approximately 10 patrons at a time. Large, comfortable, reclining chairs sit on raised platforms and hair washing stations, partitioned with muslin drapes, combine as relaxing massage tables. Soft music plays in the background as ladies sit with their feet soaking in glass bowls with their hands tended to by attentive staff.

Up the stairs is the terraced rooftop. A large, open space, painted white with a beamed roof, this time metal rather than wood. There is a bar in one corner offering beer, wine, bubbles and juices, and barstools around the open outer walls, with more views of Nguyen

Hue below. The atmosphere is that of the getaway space Quyen wanted to create, and there are more treatment chairs ready for the promised relaxation.

“I knew very little about running a spa when I started Soi, and had to learn quickly”, Quyen tells me “I knew the importance of good staff.

Unlike may spas around town, we have a ‘no blood’ policy when doing cuticles, so our staff need to be competent and experienced. We also have a ‘no chemicals’ policy so all our products are non-toxic and there is no smell around the place. We keep all our cutters under UV light to sterilise. We also clean them with alcohol. Foreigners and Viet Kieu are very conscious about hygiene standards, as are we.”

“Our services are simple but we offer them all in one place. Hair, nails and massage, and combinations of the three”, I am told. “We are attracting an increasing number of tourists looking for a premium experience, but many of our patrons work locally and pop in during their lunch break.”

“My day typically starts at 8:30 when I get up and have breakfast”, Quyen says. “I try to get to the gym before going in to work, but if I don’t have time then I go before heading home in the evening. On Monday and Tuesday I go in to the spa for 10am as I work reception. My receptionists work over the weekend so I give them time off at the start of the week.”

“Once I’ve made sure staff are ready for the day ahead, I check our reviews on TripAdvisor and Facebook. It’s important to thank those who have left positive remarks and try to find out what has happened with patrons who are not happy, so we can fix it. I spend a lot of time talking to our patrons, to enquire about their experience and to get tips and advice for new services and products we can offer.”

I spend an hour or so each morning with reports, both sales and inventory, making sure that money comes in and goes out correctly and to help me plan purchasing for the week.”

As the morning comes to an end, the spa starts to fill with lunchtime patrons, wanting to get their moment of ‘me-time’ in before the start of the afternoon. “Hair customers tend to come in at lunchtime or mid-afternoon”, Quyen explains, “to make sure their hair is clean and styled for an important meeting or an evening date. We do a hair wash massage package, hair neck shoulders arms, which is very popular.”

“I tend to meet friends for lunch, or people who support the spa. When lunch is done, I make sure staff are maintaining records and reports correctly. I use this time to update the POS system, check the spa, the music, lighting, temperature, cleanliness and general environment. A lot of oils are used for massages and they tend to leave a film.

Sometimes staff need to be reminded to clean thoroughly after each treatment session”.

“In the afternoon and evening, I often check-out other spas to get ideas how we can improve our services and develop the Soi in terms of media exposure. We have many corporate and media clients who like to book the whole spa for an event, or write about the services we offer. Part of my responsibilities is knowing about industry trends. I spend a lot of the day talking to patrons. My role is certainly social.”

Altering Work Hours to Tackle Traffic Congestion Saigon’s municipal authorities have announced a number of proposed solutions for tackling the city’s growing traffic problems. The city has identified 37 hotspots around the city where congestion is at its worst. Among the proposed solutions is the staggering of working hours so that different segments of the workforce are traveling to and from work as different times. The proposed time changes are also being considered for schools and supermarkets, although these have been met with resistance. Successful implementation of such schemes with demand careful study of how they will impact on society as a whole.

Flappy Bird Creator Launches VND1bn Fund

Nguyen Ha Dong, inventor of Flappy Bird and Vietnam’s most recognised app developer has announced the launch of a new fund to support Vietnamese inventors. The VND1 billion fund will be used to sponsor student projects and provide the resources needed for their completion. Due to the overwhelming number of applicants for the grants, Dong is limiting applications to Master and PhD students studying in the fields of education, community development, AI and robotics. Dong claims the motivation behind his project is to provide financial support to passionate students so they can realise their dream.

163 New Species Discovered in Southeast Asia Greater Mekong area, including mammals, fish, amphibians and reptiles. The Greater Mekong area is considered one of the world’s most important areas of biodiversity and spans from China through to Vietnam, including Myanmar, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. Although these discoveries are exciting for animal enthusiasts the world over, there is growing concern for the loss of biodiversity in the region, due to development projects, poaching and trafficking of endangered species.

self-discipline is a myth & traffic laws don’t matter A recent report by the National Traffic Safety Committee has concluded that despite a drop in the number of traffic deaths compared to 2015, there is still a long way to go before Vietnamese roads can be considered safe. Most accidents that have occurred over the last 12 months have been a direct result of drivers ignoring traffic regulations and an ongoing disregard for the safety of others on the roads. Most accidents are caused by people seemingly oblivious to the regulations of driving and pay no attention to the signs and signals of the roads.

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20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Peter Cornish investigates the rise of the pet industry, and the evolution of caring for animals in Vietnam. Photos by Vinh Dao.

V

ietnam’s pet industry is still very much in its infancy. The first license for a pet retail shop was issued little more than 10 years ago. As attitudes towards animals change, the desire to own a pet is driving tremendous growth and the industry is booming, albeit in a fragmented and unregulated way. One of the key drivers of this growth is the increasing trend of pet humanisation, one which is having global impact on pet care and ownership, particularly in Vietnam. People are no longer seeing their cats and dogs as simply animals that serve a function, such as protection or pest control, but are increasingly treating their pets as members of the family.

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Pets As Friends

Wayne Capriotti, an expert on the country’s pet industry and founder of Vietnam’s first petcentric magazine, Me Thu Cung, explains the phenomena to me.

“In the last five years, the quantity and quality of pet ownership in Vietnam has increased dramatically, driven by a pet industry social phenomenon first observed in developed countries called ‘pet humanization.’”

Industry experts point to several factors that have contributed to the booming growth and changing attitudes, not least the economic and cultural changes that Vietnam has experienced in the last decade.

With the emergence of the largest middle class in Asia, second only to China, the amount of disposable income available to many has increased, and spending habits have changed accordingly.

“Greater amounts of disposable income from an emerging middle class is spent on pets, therefore raising the status of a pet from a pragmatic position within the household into becoming a family member”, Wayne tells me.

Changes in social dynamics are also impactful on the rise in pet ownership. With increased urbanisation of the country, people are marrying later and divorce rates are up. Different work and living conditions are negatively impacting on stress levels, and loneliness is affecting the younger generations who often struggle to find time for a social life.

All this has driven the rise in preference for pet companionship, and a willingness to spend more on the care of these new family members. Regarding pets as part of the family, forming relationships with them, and seeing them as an important part of daily, social interaction, Vietnamese pet owners are searching for better products and services for their pets.

“Since the first pet shop in Saigon opened in 2006, there has been a rapid growth in the number of stores offering pet related products, with now close to 100 in the city”, Wayne explains. As Vietnamese 22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

consumers become more aware of the health concerns related to food, they are tending to search for products with recognised brands, frequently international.

This is the same for pets as well as their own consumption.

The availability of locally produced pet food brands is still limited, and most production happening in Vietnam is for the local, lower-end of the market rather than for export.

Popular international brands with authorised Vietnamese distribution channels include Royal Canin, Pedigree, Mars Pet Care and Whiskas. These can be found readily in pet stores and supermarkets around the city, although availability of choice remains limited.

“Customers are favouring international brands”, Wayne continues. “This is in part due to increased popularity of Western products among the Vietnamese, especially the younger, Millennial generation which is leading the boom in pet ownership. There is a visible preference for premium products, and these tend not to be produced locally.”

The trend for premium is also seen in the type of pets that people are opting for, especially dogs. Often motivated by the desire to display status, larger pedigree breeds, such as Alsatians, Rottweilers and Labradors, along with Huskies and Malamutes, have become popular among wealthier owners who can fork out thousands of dollars for an imported pedigree dog.

Females Leading, Social Groups Booming

With limited living space and recent bans on dog ownership in many apartment blocks around the city, toy and miniature breeds, including Poodles and Chihuahuas, are being favoured by owners, especially among the young, female population of the city.

This demographic, females under 35 years old, is leading the pet ownership boom. Overall it is the Vietnamese female segment, up to 55 years of age and who typically control the family budgets and spending, that are at

the forefront of the rising trends.

Social media groups are springing up that cater for new pet owners, offering a valued platform where they can ask questions, share photos of their animals and sometimes offer pets for sale. There has also been a rise in the number of dog shows now being held around the city.

These shows are giving people the opportunity to meet up offline, show their pets off, network, learn about new trends and products and perhaps arrange for two dogs to have a romantic tryst at some point in the future.

Making more frequent appearances at these shows are dog breeds native to Vietnam.

Little known outside the country, the three main breeds, the Phu Quoc Ridgeback, the H’mong and the Bac Ha, are seeing a rise in popularity among people keen to own dogs that have played an integral role in Vietnamese culture and society for hundreds of years.

Courageous hunters and loyal companions, these dogs can trace their origins far back in Vietnam’s indigenous cultures.

With growth in pet ownership comes an increased awareness of animal rights. The animal rights community is growing rapidly and the first Vietnam Animal Welfare Conference was held in downtown Saigon in 2014. Activists and advocates are finding new platforms where they can voice their cause and are becoming increasingly vocal in the messages they spread – one of general care and compassion, not just anti dog and cat meat trade.

Although the new generation of pet lovers is acting as a driving force in raising awareness of animal cruelty, there are still many issues that need addressing in the responsible ownership of cats and dogs. Despite many owners genuinely wanting to love and care for their animal, a lack of education and understanding is preventing this. Changes are happening, but Vietnam is still a long way from being a petfriendly country.

Being a responsible pet owner covers many areas, not just for the benefit of the pet, but for the community in which they live.

Ensuring that your animal is

IF YOUR PET IS UNHEALTHY, NOT ONLY DOES THE ANIMAL SUFFER, BUT THE PEOPLE AROUND IT CAN BE AFFECTED TOO.

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...ADOPT, DON’T BUY. BUT YOU NEED TO THINK “THIS IS A PET, NOT A TOY.” ASK YOURSELF: WILL THIS ANIMAL BE SUITABLE FOR THE FAMILY CHILDREN, FOR THE WEATHER, TO LIVE IN AN APARTMENT OR A HOUSE WITH A GARDEN?

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

healthy is a key part of this. If your pet is unhealthy, not only does the animal suffer, but the people around it can be affected too.

Saigon Pet-Extraordinaire

Good vets are hard to find in Vietnam. Asia Life met up with Dr Nguyen Van Nghia of Saigon Pet Clinic to ask his thoughts about the booming pet industry and the issues he faces as the city’s leading veterinarian.

“The industry is changing and changing quickly. Vietnamese are caring more for animals which is a good thing. They have higher salaries and living conditions are better. They have more money to spend on animals,” Dr. Nghia explains. Despite these changes there are still many concerns facing those involved in animal care.

“Getting a pet has become fashionable but many of the popular pets are not suitable for Vietnam. I see a lot of Huskies and Chow Chow, Prairie Dogs and Red Eared Turtles that are not suitable for here. I also see squirrels and eagles and falcons.

People breed them but they don’t know how to do this properly, or care for them. Many people get pets without thinking. Young people in particular. They need to think carefully before taking this responsibility. Animals are not toys.” he tells me.

One unfortunate by-product of the burgeoning demand for pets is an increase in unregulated and uncontrolled breeders, many of whom are just looking to make a fast buck. Backyard dog breeders are springing up at an alarming rate and many are turning to social media to sell their animals.

Dr Nghia warns of some of the potential problems this is creating.

“When you breed animals, you must know what you are doing.

There can be many congenital problems. You must think about vaccinations. In Vietnam, many people want to breed animals because they think it is a quick way to make money. But nobody wants to control who can breed and it is very tough to find a breeder that is responsible and cares for their animals. There are many problems with inbreeding.

The Phu Quoc dogs have genetic problems because of this.”

“If you want a pet, this is great. There are many abandoned animals that need good, loving homes. Adopt, don’t buy. But you need to think this is a pet, not a toy. Ask yourself, will this animal be suitable for the family children, for the weather, to live in an apartment or a house with a garden.”

“If you don’t care about the breed then adopt. I always recommend this. Go to an organisation like Animal Rescue & Care (A.R.C). They screen all their animals, deworm them, vaccinate and neuter so the animals are not spreading any defects. If you don’t want to do this then get a dog from a friend, or at least get a dog from where you know the mother and father of the animal.”

Finding an animal in need of a loving home is not difficult in Saigon. The few animal rescue centres are overflowing and face a constant influx of new rescues.

But before people decide to give an animal a new home, Dr. Nghia offers some essential advice.

“When you decide to get a pet it’s a good idea to talk to your vet first, especially if you want to get a cat or a dog. Like a child, they will need full vaccinations to prevent fatal diseases, including rabies. This must be done when the animal is at least 3 months old because the vaccine contains the virus which may attack the nerves.”

“You need to think carefully about food for your animal. There are many different foods from all over the world in Vietnam but I recommend you talk to your vet to ensure you have the right food for your pet, especially dogs. Food choice depends on the breed, whether you have a large dog or a small dog. It’s important to avoid digestive problems. Be careful with cheap raw meat.

Meat inspection for humans is a problem, for animals it can be even worse.”

One of the questions that cat and dog owners face is whether to neuter or not. This is a particularly sensitive issue in Vietnam where culturally many owners prefer not to. Dr. Nghia explained the pros and cons behind this decision.

“There are lots of advantages to neutering your cat or dog and we recommend it to owners. It will help prevent bad behaviour

in your animal, such as marking territory and escaping or running away. It can also help avoid reproductive disorders and infections, especially sexual diseases. On the other hand, animals naturally need hormones to develop so it’s important not to do it too early. At the clinic, we explain this to all owners.”

Pet Maintenance

Many dog owners in the city are facing the threat of eviction as more apartment buildings clamp down on permitting dogs in their facilities. While this is proving a problem for many, unruly animals can be a threat to the community they live in and there is a need for owners to think about how their pets’ behaviour can impact on the lives of those around them.

“Training is essential for your dog” Dr. Nghia stresses. “In Vietnam, we have a saying ‘like father like son, like owner like dog’. Teach your dog with love and care and the dog will be OK, but you cannot expect a puppy younger than 6 months to be a good dog. Like a human baby, it will chew and pee. Many new owners don’t realise this and it can be a problem for the animal as well as them.”

“Many locals think that dogs exercise themselves, but this is not true. Even if you have a bad day, the dog still needs exercise and can misbehave. If you don’t have enough love and discipline to look after an animal, you shouldn’t have one. It’s also important you think about the local community.

Many apartment buildings now forbid dogs and other pets. You should think about the noise you pet makes, and always clean up any mess that it leaves.”

“Since 2010, A.R.C has rescued more than 1000 animals, that’s a lot and most of them were stray or abused” Dr. Nghia shares as we finish our conversation.

“The many volunteers at A.R.C do tremendous work and I would like to thank them and the many fosterers, adopters and people who donate to help us. But I would also like to ask people considering getting a pet to think carefully before they do. Please be responsible. It’s a lot less work and hardship for those involved in taking care of abandoned animals.”

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Elijah Ferrian experiences a fantastic meal for charity that will continue to evolve over time in the Aperitivo space in Thao Dien.

Photo by Vinh Dao.

26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

H

aving worked in the service industry in the States for many years, getting the opportunity to visit a “pop up” concept here in Ho Chi Minh City was a real treat. I miss the hustle of working in the restaurant game.

There’s a specific breed that finds toiling away in a kitchen, or being manhandled by endless waves of patrons yelling for cocktails at the bar, enjoyable.

Jamie Morton is no rookie when it comes to the former. He worked as a chef in Glasgow for five years, but eventually just kind of got burnt out on the whole industry.

He got the opportunity to come out to Saigon five years ago, working in a different profession, and he ran with it.

He found that he was still cooking here all of the time. Throwing dinner parties, still learning technique, still nerding out on equipment and new dishes he was unfamiliar with, or had never cooked before. Morton began throwing dinner parties as a way to channel this creative energy.

He and his wife, Claudia Davaar, found that after awhile of establishing themselves in Vietnam, that they would like to do something beyond just their jobs.

Something that could help people, and allow them to pool their talents and passion together.

That’s when the idea for “The Pop Up” came home to roost.

It began as dinner parties, evolved into a pop up concept that they operated out of their apartment, and quickly blossomed into its current form. “[We] did pop-ups in our and friend’s apartments,” Morton said. “After one night, I went out for a cigarette, and I had an epiphany. I was like: ‘Hey, we can do this at Aperitivo.’ We started getting it squared away, contacting all the suppliers and stuff.

We drink there all the time, we love the place, but I had never even thought about it.

We were thinking of doing it on the roof of our apartment, and then we spoke to Attilio Battero, the owner of Aperitivo, and he was really for it after their redesign.”

What is a “Pop-Up” Restaurant?

In my personal experience, a lot of pop-up concepts are conceived by chefs that are in-between jobs. Whether they are waiting to land at a new kitchen, or a new restaurant they are opening is slowly rolling along, they have to be able to keep consumers engaged with their product. Pop-ups afford this with little overhead cost, and oftentimes a healthy, symbiotic cross-pollination between different restaurants and the talented people behind them.

Pop-up restaurants have steadily gained in popularity since the 2000s in Britain, Australia and the United States, but they are anything but a new concept. Patrons typically make use of social media to follow the movement of these restaurants and make online reservations. The online marketplace has been an absolute boon, if not the sole reason why this phenomenon has grown exponentially over time.

The concept draws many parallels to things like food trucks, and one of the most tried-and-true avenues for young chefs and bartenders to gain exposure for their specialised sets of skills and originality in the field of food and beverage. In an industry where the most enterprising must always be on the lookout for investors and attention for marketing purposes, pop-ups provide the framework to get their ideas from their imagination, into a bricks-andmortar reality.

Pop-up restaurants are generally hailed as useful for younger chefs, allowing them access to underused kitchen facilities and to “experiment without the risk of bankruptcy”. By 2013, this restaurant style had gained steam and prevalence in larger cities thanks in part to crowd-funding efforts that offered the short-term capital needed to fund start-up costs.

Fine Foods for Charity

“I just wanted to satisfy my desire for rich food, but I don’t want to eat it all the time,” Morton explains. “So hey, maybe cook it for other people? I was originally going to be doing an excursion, after my wife and I got

married recently. I wanted to use some skills I have to give a little bit back. We’re still trying to develop what we’re trying to do.”

The evening I showed up to experience Morton’s food, they were donating all the proceeds to Little Rose Shelter. a girls home that provides services for victims of human trafficking and sexual exploitation.

“We spoke to the charity, and they need a new roof for their kitchen and the whole cost will be VND60,000,000,” Morton tells me. “So, we’re trying to pitch in and help make that a reality for them. In the future, we plan to target grassroots charities. Places that truly haven’t gotten any help from anyone.”

Sorry to keep you all waiting regarding the food. The evening this interview was conducted Morton served a pork knuckle terrine, homemade poppy seed crackers, with UK-style piccalilli, and chopped shallot.

A palate cleanser for in between courses consisted of a gorgeous watermelon granita with basil oil. A delicate, vegetal-flavoured segue between bites.

Beef brisket ravioli, sage beurre noisette, carrot crisp.

Ricotta and parmesan stuffed courgette flower, with saffron aioli.

Herb-crusted emperor fish, shrimp emulsion, and smoked pomme puree.

Dessert came as a well balanced rosewater panna cotta, flanked by crisp honeycomb, strawberries, and mint.

The price for this meal was VND950,000 per head, all proceeds headed to charity.

This man can cook, and it’s for a damned good cause. Him and his wife are doing something very exciting, and for those foodies that are looking for a little something more from a culinary experience in Ho Chi Minh City, look no further than The Pop Up. Food you can feel good about eating.

Be on the lookout for The Pop Up’s next dinner, coming sometime after Tet Holiday.

Check out their facebook page at: facebook.com/ thepopupsaigon.

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Tales o f experi magical ences o Indian n the Photos subcontinen t

by Ad and words . ina We inand.

28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

I

ndia’s history is one of the most incredible and complex in the world.

Its fingerprints, the remains of lost empires, are strewn throughout the subcontinent, marked in fortresses rising from deserts, glistening palaces and mausoleums left from Kings.

There are temples hiding away in the jungles, medieval markets, holy rivers as the essence of deep-rooted and thriving religion, colonial city architecture, a melting pot of different peoples from all over the subcontinent, a tight hold on traditional craft, and every inch of old-world architecture splashed in a sea of colour.

Most of the country’s history and traditions lies in it’s northern regions, in particular Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh.

Three of its major cities – Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, are deemed the country’s “golden triangle”, a tourist circuit easily and efficiently connecting the three. Pushing beyond into the arid and dusty landscape is an in-depth experience across a range of cultural and architectural phenomena.

The city of Delhi is just as much exhilarating and overwhelming as one may expect. The bustle of the narrow streets running in every direction imaginable in absolute chaos. There is a backdrop of constantly changing sounds, and an intoxicating blend of every smell imaginable. While Delhi offers many great things to see, I have decided to move on as soon as possible, ready to explore the mystical areas ahead in this journey.

Undeniably the best way to see the landscape unfold before you is by train or car –curled up in a backseat or sleeper berth watching village life pass by in all of it’s colourful and traditional ways. Camels with carts in tow, women in colorful saris working in the fields, children and dogs corralling cows across the street.

With Agra being a short three to four hours from Delhi, possessing some of the best gems in the region, I had to make my way there. The allure of the Taj Mahal is legitimate. The monument glistens and sparkles, and the light even changes dramatically from morning to evening.

Everything is perfectly symmetrical and finished in marble. This “Seventh Wonder of the World” took 22 years, over 20,000 labourers, and 1,000 elephants used to transport building materials, to build. Verses of the Quran are inscribed around each massive entranceway.

An enduring testament to love, the Taj was built in 1653 by the Mughal king Shah Jahan as the final burial place for his wife. Shah’s intentions of creating the largest mausoleum in the world, with masterful classical symmetry, were successful. Take away even one

element of its design and the harmony is destroyed. Seemingly endless verses of the Quran are inscribed around the massive doorways. The interior features semi-precious gems meticulously handcut and inlaid in intricate patterning, surrounding the tomb of Shah Jahan, his wife, and his son. Bright-green parrots criss-cross the skies above, twisting and diving majestically adding further to the place’s mystic atmosphere.

With the Taj Mahal overshadowing, I had almost forgotten about Agra Fort, one of the most impressive Mughal forts in the country. Construction began by Emperor Akbar in 1565 using marble and red sandstone. It was first built as a military structure, then was transformed to a palace. Its colossal double wall rises over 20m in height and spans 2.5km in circumference. Dozens of courtyards expand past each entrance, each holding incredible amounts of intricately handcarved pillars and columns. Walking through endless entrances into the vast courtyards slowly sets in how big this incredible fortress really is.

Moving from Agra to Jaipur feels like an even bigger jump back in time. The Rajasthani capital, dubbed the “Pink City”, has long held on to it’s heritage.

With city dwellers preserving its colonial architecture, keeping all buildings in the old city a warm hue of pink. The markets are considered some of the best in all of India, as craftsmen have worked tirelessly for generations at preserving traditional ways of textiles and handicrafts. Within the city, Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of the Winds” towers over the main street. It’s a whimsical, five-storied, pink honeycomb structure.

Constructed in 1799, it was used for women of the royal household to be able to watch the city below. Snake charmers dot the sidewalks leading up the structure. Shop keepers are happy to show you up the tiny stairways hugging their shops to the rooftops above for an even better view.

Meandering outside of the Jaipur city limits, I knew I would soon be approaching the tucked-away Amber Fort, where the traffic turns from cars and pushcarts, to elephants and camel carts. Situated above a cliff over Maota Lake, the extensive palace complex is constructed of yellow and pink sandstone, with pieces of marble found throughout, in a mix of Islamic and Hindu architecture. The view from a storey or two above the main courtyard affords a breathtaking view of Amber City and the lush forests and fields below.

Jaipur’s charm can be underwhelming in contrast to its 2.3 million inhabitants, and Pushkar gave my brain a nice break from city life. With a mystic vibe all its

own, Pushkar has a captivating energy unlike anywhere else in Rajasthan. With a population of only about 20,000 people, the Hindu pilgrimage town hugs the holy lake, a serene and peaceful plot found at the town center. Small cafes and quiet, quaint restaurants dot the streets, amidst a handful of sacred Hindu temples. The main street is lined with the town bazaar, where shops specializing in the likes of tie-dye, handmade paper, and exquisite silks can be found. Sunset is best viewed via camel trekking further out of the town. Ambling through gypsy communities and into the romantic midsts of traditional musicians waiting to entertain as the sun goes down.

While I didn’t visit Udaipur, it’s highly recommended on all Rajasthan itineraries. It’s romantic surroundings, set on a backdrop of ochre and purple hills, along glistening Lake Pichola, is a rarity in the whole of the country. It’s filled with palaces, temples, havelis, and countless fascinating streets and markets to explore.

Rajasthani wanderings ended in Jodhpur, and ever-so-satisfyingly so.

Termed the “Blue City”, Jodhpur is the perfect mix of a vast, sprawling city blended with the charm and old-world energy of a small city. Bursts of every hue of blue color that meets the eye is accented with every other color of the spectrum, from the carved wooden doorways to the turbans and saris, to tuktuks and push carts tied to patient camels waiting on the side of the streets adorned in a rainbow of decor. Narrow alleys wind in a seemingly endless maze, often interrupted by cows and goats, push carts, and street vendors.

Towering over the blanket of blue, and rising 120m directly from the rock in which it was carved from, Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort is considered one of the most magnificent forts in the country.

Over 200 years old, and still run by the Jodhpur royal family, the main areas have been converted into a museum, with a spiral staircase leading up five storeys of stone, stained glass, and mirrored rooms and halls, highlighting the fort’s legendary history.

The museum’s courtyard is comprised of networks of stone lattice, in Rajput architecture-style, and is so intricately carved it often looks more like wood than stone. The view from the back side of the monumental wall offers a breathtaking view of the blue city below.

Northern India’s natural beauty and man-made gems scattered throughout the region make it a must-visit for anyone seeking a magical place that leaves them with a sense of discovery.

The inspiration gained in this journey through history will inspire long after leaving its graces.

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30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Elijah Ferrian reads Elka Ray’s new novel, and gets into some of the deeper themes running throughout the story. Part macabre mystery, part heartwarming tale of love and the importance of family and identity. Photo by Vinh Dao.

E

lka Ray released a new novel, and it’s quite an edgy tale. This writer, born in England, raised in Africa and Canada, and absorbing everything Southeast Asia for the last twenty years, has created something quite unique.

Previously, Ray had focussed on short stories, and writing and illustrating a trio of kids’ books. She also is the co-owner of a souvenir production company, Sticky Rice, that likes to craft its products with the storied cultures of Southeast Asia firmly in mind.

The new novel, Saigon Dark, is a far cry from a children’s novel, or really any of her previous work to date. This is a tale of duality. Yin and yang. The dark side of life that we all experience at some point, and the light side that comforts us, as if we were back in a familiar womb of warmth and safety. It explores themes of lies, deceit, grief, identity, mental health, and the shadow self that we all possess. Is it better to keep it hidden, or to unleash it for all to see? Carl Jung certainly had a lot to say about all of this, but we’ll keep this short.

We wanted to get a bit deeper into some of the concepts in the book, without exposing too much of the story. I had a little back-and-forth with the author to get down to the bottom of what is unconsciously going on in this story: How much, if any, of this story is autobiographical? Obviously some things are fantastical, but there seems to be a few threads of first-hand experience throughout this story.

Going on ten years ago, my first child died unexpectedly as a baby. It was my first major loss, and I had no clue how grief worked. I felt obliged to act fine, to not make other people uncomfortable. But then I’d crack, like I’d go to the supermarket and see the diaper aisle and start bawling. It was awful. For the first time in my life I couldn’t control my emotions.

Grief made me feel crazy and that terrified me. As a writer, it fascinated me too - the irrationality of it. My sobbing wouldn’t help; being sad wouldn’t bring my daughter back. Wanting to understand grief was the basis for Saigon Dark - a novel about a woman who’s crazed with grief, but has to pretend she’s fine. From what I experienced, pretending is the worst. It really might drive you mad.

What’s your background? When did you come to Vietnam? Why? Have you lived in all of the locations touched on in the book?

I moved to Vietnam on New Year’s Eve 1994/’95. I came “for one year”, planning to pursue a PhD in Asian Studies. Instead, I started writing for magazines and abandoned academia. The novel is set in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, both cities I called home for many years.

Do you have children of your own? If so, how has it been raising them in Vietnam?

The ups and downs?

I have a son, aged 9, and a daughter who’s almost 8. My kids’ grandparents are Vietnamese, German and British. I’m Canadian and my husband’s Australian. If we left Vietnam I’m not sure where we’d go. A year and a half ago we moved from

Ho Chi Minh City to the beach near Hoi An. We wanted our kids to have cleaner air and more access to nature.

How long was this story in the making?

Has this been something you have been building up for quite some time? Or is it a different case of it just kind of pouring out of you into this novel?

The first draft took four or five months, but I knew the characters and story well before I started writing. The rewriting took longer, as it usually does.

The plot of Saigon Dark came to me shortly after my son was born in Thailand.

His first passport featured a photo taken as a newborn. He was squinty, toothless and bald. From the photo you couldn’t guess his race or gender. That passport was valid for five years, which got me thinking: I could use this passport for any kid.

I find the dream-state, “Is this really happening?”, theme that weaves through the story quite interesting. Can you touch more on why you chose to use this theme to tell the story?

This stems from my own experience of trauma. When something really terrible happens, you go into shock. Your feelings are muffled and your reasoning is impaired.

It’s like soft focus. When you look back, your memories are disjointed. Now imagine you can’t discuss those shattering events with anyone. The main character of Saigon Dark, Lily, faces trauma after trauma - all stemming from a decision she made in the throes of grief and shock. www.elkaray.com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 31

Here’s a bit of history about one of the most popular dishes in the world, and some favourite places to sample the different varieties in Ho Chi Minh City. Photo by Vinh Dao.

C

urries tell a story. The spice combinations communicate where the meal originates. Who its native eaters once were. With the increasingly globalised nature of our technological, meme-based society, curry has become even more international than even its globe-trotting history can attest for.

The style of cuisine that has been associated with the finest curries stretches deep back into the annals of time.

Researchers have tied the dish back to around the 1700s BC, in what is now known as Iraq.

More than likely the utilisation of curry spice blends grew out of the Indian subcontinent, the curry leaf and its culinary compatriots were in use in Britain potentially as long ago as the 14th century.

There are records of warm-spiced curry contained in the first English book focussed on cooking, written during the era of Richard II. One can find curry in nearly every country around the world. You might find yourself in a posh cocktail bar in London being served a fancy drink with a curry powder rim, or perusing a restaurant’s menu in South Africa, only to find that they have their own unique style of curry as well.

The options are seemingly endless for the curry chameleon.

The etymology of the word traces back to the Tamil language, spoken in southeastern India, coming from their word “Kari”, which later morphed into “curry”.

Many people think curry powder is but one spice. This is probably due to the fact that there is indeed a curry leaf, stemming from Murraya koenigii, known as the “curry tree”. However, this is only one ingredient in a curry powder. Additional botanicals and spices vary, but typical ingredients include: coriander, black pepper, turmeric, fenugreek, mustard, ginger, and a slew of others that lend their aromas and colours to distinct blends that vary in heat Living in Southeast Asia affords anyone with a hankering for complex, spiced gravies, an opportunity to try a wide variety of different dishes from around the region, and beyond.

We wanted to highlight some of the

32 AsiaLIFE HCMC

establishments in Ho Chi Minh City that have firmly planted themselves as fantastic purveyors of the specific regional curries that they craft in their kitchens.

From Vietnamese traditional duck curry, to the best Japanese kaire raisu in the city.

Explore Vietnam’s southern capital with an adventure in tantalising spice and global experiences.

India

The Queen (or King) of curry. Seemingly where all curries have their roots. All flavour profiles from the various curries one can find around the world always cycle back to the curry tree, and the other gorgeous warm spices that erupted out of the Indian subcontinent. There are so many different varieties of curry to choose from when at a solid Indian restaurant, that it can be tough to choose, or even understand what’s what. Here’s a quick list for any newcomers to curry land, some of the most popular plates, from mild to hot: Korma (cashew nut, saffron gravy), Tikka Masala (British favourite dish), Dopiaza (heavy on the onions), Rogan Josh (no tomatoes, yoghurt seasoned meat), Madras (green, red chillies, tomatoes), Vindaloo (typically the hottest option).

Parivar Indian Cuisine - 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1

Thailand

The great thing about Thai curry is that the dishes are color-coded like poisonous Amazonian frogs. They let you know the extent of danger you are in for, usually.

Kaeng kari (yellow curry) is a mild option traditionally served with cucumber relish, and kaeng khiao wan (green curry) is a much spicier dish owing to its green chilies.

Meanwhile, kaeng phet (red curry) ditches the green chilies for red ones, in case that wasn’t extremely obvious. Other Thai picks include the potato and peanut-filled massaman curry and the sour kaeng som.

Either way, you’re usually in for a hearty helping of coconut milk and kaffir leaves.

Thai Street - 26 Thao Dien, D2

Malaysia

Owing to its close proximity to India, Malaysia was one of the early adopters

of curry, picking the recipes up through spice merchants, according to Collingham.

Wander the country’s hawker stalls, and you’ll find plenty of curry laksa (or curry mee), a noodle soup often featuring deepfried tofu and bean sprouts. Or you can try the beloved nasi lemak, a curry with hardboiled egg, anchovies, and chili paste.

The Daun Restaurant - 194 Le Thanh Ton Street, D1

Vietnam

Like Cambodia, Vietnam also serves its curries with baguettes -- as it turns out, the French hung there for a while, too. But the most well-known dish here is probably the cari ga, or chicken curry, which utilizes one of your favorite Thanksgiving sides. Breathe easy, it’s not green bean casserole -- it’s sweet potatoes.

Xa Tay Market - Nguyen Trai District 5. Look for “Ca Ri Vit”, a fantastic Vietnamese duck curry.

Japan

Curry is practically as big as bizarre Kit Kats in Japan, which is kinda shocking since, as Collingham explains, the country has no colonial connections to India and basically shunned any food culture but its own for a long time. Still, curry managed to sneak in, and now manifests itself in such common forms as karee raisu (curry rice), karee udon (curried wheat noodles), and karee pan (curry stuffed inside a roll). Curry roux bars -- spice blocks you dump into a pot at home -- are also very popular.

Curry Shika - 1/4 Nguyen Van Trang, D1

Cambodia

You know a country’s serious about its curry when it declares one variety the national dish, and that’s exactly what Cambodia did with amok, the curry pictured above. If fish cooked in banana leaves isn’t your bag, though, you can try num banh chok, a ricenoodle fish soup often served for breakfast.

Bonus trivia: curries in Cambodia tend to come with a baguette, due to the lingering Frenchie influences.

Just take a bus to Phnom Penh. Check out AsiaLIFE’s last issue, where we cover insider tips on where to eat and travel in Cambodia.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 33

HEALTH & WELLNESS

34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

A

placebo is a substance, such as a pill or shot, that contains no active medicine. Scientists typically use placebos as controls in research studies. This helps them understand how much of a medicine’s effects are due to the drug itself, versus how much are due to participants’ expectations or other factors.

People who are given a placebo generally tend to report improvements in symptoms, and sometimes even when this effect can occur when they knowingly take a sugar pill, or some other faux-medicine. To better understand the neurochemical mechanisms underlying the placebo effect, a team led by the American, Dr. Jon-Kar Zubieta, formerly at the University of Michigan School of Medicine and now at the University of Utah examined such effects in depression treatment.

The scientists enrolled 35 people with major depression who weren’t taking any medications. In the first phase of the study, the participants were randomly assigned to receive placebo pills that were described as a potentially fast-acting antidepressant (“active” placebo group) or identical pills described as a placebo with no antidepressant effects (“inactive” placebo group). Each group took the pills for a week, and then after a few days, the groups switched.

At the end of each week of treatment, the participants completed a questionnaire about their depression symptoms. They also underwent a PET brain scan to measure the activity of µ-opioid receptors, which are known to be involved in emotion, stress, social rewards, and depression.

During the scan, the active placebo group received intravenous doses of saline with the understanding that it might activate brain systems involved in mood improvement. This was done to monitor the acute effects of an active placebo on brain function. The inactive placebo group received no infusions during the scan.

In the second phase of the study, all participants were treated for 10 weeks with antidepressants (usually selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors), and their depression symptoms were monitored.

The researchers found that the participants reported significant decreases in depression symptoms when they took the

The placebo effect has a demonstrable effect on not only our health, but our concept of reality as well.

Photo by Vinh Dao. active placebo, compared to when they took the inactive placebo. These reductions were linked to increased µ-opioid receptor brain activity in regions of the brain associated with emotion and stress regulation. Notably, the increased µ-opioid activity induced by the active placebo was also associated with significantly better responses to the subsequent antidepressant treatment.

All of these results seem to keep suggesting that some people are more responsive to the intention to treat their depression.

Science seems to be overlooking something that has deep roots in history, and depending on who you discuss the subject with, helped spawn the modern age of the scientific method. This phenomenon would be Hermetic thinking of the Renaissance, alchemy, mystical traditions, yogas, and more.

During the 1980s, the placebo effect had basically no record of existing. Now, this placebo cure phenomena accounts for over 70 percent of a total effect in the average medical trial. What does this mean?

If this data is legitimate, does that mean that one can just use their intention behind placebo to cure illnesses? There’s a lot behind intention in holistic healing methods that trace their origins back to Shamanism and indigenous forms of plant medicine.

And If these faux-medicines work so well as to outperform the sanctioned pharmaceuticals that we are prescribed at the doctor’s office, then what does that mean for big pharma and the various exorbitantly-priced medicines that are tested against placebos before receiving approval for the average person to utilise? Obviously this is a pressing issue, and one that needs professionals to unravel the plot. Dr. William Tiller, Ph.D., professor emeritus at Stanford University, and Dr. Nisha Manek, M.D., formerly of the Mayo Clinic, teamed up to study the placebo effect.

In mystical study groups, at your drum circle, or acupuncture appointment, there is always conversation about the mind-body connection. Some researchers feel that this connection is behind the efficacy between something like taking a sugar pill, and the drastic improvements made toward healing a sickness or disease. In the past, placebos were seen as something, like a sugar pill, that doesn’t have an effect on health in and

of itself. It’s a person’s thoughts that must affect the body in some psychobiological way. But what if human intention physically changes the placebo and the placebo does have an effect on health in and of itself?

What if the placebo is no longer inert?

Tiller and Manek have had to wonder if intention is getting blended with the information that comes with taking a placebo. The placebo’s potential may mutate as a result of human intention directed at it and thus it may have a physical effect in and of itself on the patient’s body.

This is something that yogis, healers, and mystics have been suggesting through their practices for centuries. That through the power of self discipline and a strong, developed will, people can absolutely affect their bodies, minds, and heal them outright just by doing various visualisations and meditative exercises. One of the best definitions of magic, from authors William Swatos and Peter Kivisto, in regards to the practice of doing ritual exercises handed down from past mystical traditions, is as such: magic is any attempt to control the environment or the self by means that are either untested or untestable.

Now things are getting interesting, because methods like placebo, which one could argue is almost a magical device in itself, are being tested by the scientific method - with interesting results.

In a classical sense, a clinical trial consists of a doctor, the patient (study subject), the active treatment being investigated, and the placebo. We think all these four elements are separate in space and time. What Tiller and Manek show mathematically is that the placebo is connected to the active treatment and that this connectivity changes it’s potential—it’s not a dummy anymore.

Tiller and Manek go on to say: “We must be circumspect about rejecting a medical treatment because its presently measured efficacy is little different from that produced by the placebo in the entangled experiment.”

However, at the end of the day, results are results, are they not?

Sources: Carol Torgan, Ph.D. and the National Institutes of Health.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 35

Peeling back the layers of a popular tourist destination in Thailand.

Photos and words by Vinh Dao.

36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

I

don’t go to Thailand much. Given my fifteen years in Southeast Asia, I should be a seasoned pro in the Land of Smiles.

But other than Bangkok, there isn’t much appeal for me. I guess I am more of a city guy than one to hang out in a hammock.

But when it came to meeting up with some friends, I said sure, why not?

Then they mentioned Krabi. Hmmm.

Beach destination? Not too sure about that.

However, my wife put her foot down, so Ao Nang, here we come. While checking out what to do, I came across the Lonely Planet description of the place.

“Thanks to its unchecked and unsightly development huddled in the shadows of stunning karst scenery, Ao Nang is ugly pretty, but it’s an easy, if blandly touristy, destiantion (sic) to visit. There’s a slightly seedy undercurrent too, with booze crawls and naughty bar-girl sois.”

Taking this in mind, I steeled myself to having a Thai fisherman pants-filled holiday.

Thankfully, with some help from friends who used to live there, I discovered that Ao Nang isn’t that bad at all.

Ao Nang is the most frequently visited city in Krabi Province. The city itself is easy to get around with one major street that runs the length of the touristy bit. While Ao Nang was spared most of the destruction from the 2004 tsunami, there are evacuation signs up and down the beach leaving a stark reminder of the devastation that ravaged the western coast of Thailand.

The first thing my friends recommended was where to stay. Ao Nang has a wide variety of accommodation. If you can splurge and get away from the crowd, you can’t go wrong with Centara Grand Beach Resort. Set in a cove, it’s far enough from the crowd but close enough for a quick long tail boat jaunt into town.

The resorts closer to the beach vary from three to four stars, and range from 1,500,000VND to 2,000,000VND per night, while the cheaper backpacker area is further away.

Families should look at Holiday Inn

with its very kid-friendly amenities: a Kids Club, a child stay and eat programme and probably the best play area in Ao Nang.

Villas are a great choice, as most are reasonably priced, and there’s a wide variety to choose from. One to two bed villas usually run 2,00,000VND to 4,000,000VND per night, depending on location and amenities.

Also, you have the option of self-catering.

I have a serious issue with Thai resorts.

Unless it’s at a four star or higher location, the breakfast is usually limp eggs, 3-in-1 coffee and hot dogs that are advertised as sausages.

We opted for a mid-range villa which came with a private splash pool, two bedrooms and a separate living area. While it was plush, it was a bit further away from town. Luckily, it’s only a five to ten minute jaunt back into the fray.

There are plenty of food options to be had in town. The main promenade is chockfull of restaurants that serve both Thai and Western fare. All are pretty good, but tend to tone down their Thai offerings to fit the Western palate.

Do yourself a favour, skip all of them, and head to the Last Fisherman Bar at the end of the strip. They offer a combination of grilled meats and seafood combos that come with an all-you-can-eat salad and dessert buffet.

It’s also the only restaurant on the strip that is next to the water. No music needed, just the cool sounds of waves lapping onto a beach.

Meat eaters should make a trip to Carnivore Steak and Grill. The décor is a bit dated, but people come for the great cuts of meat. Meals come with a complimentary appetizer plate with cheese, olives, and breads. If that wasn’t enough, the meal is finished with a shot of Sambuca.

If you are looking for authentic Thai food, head to Massaman, which has the reputation of keeping their dishes Thai authentic, which means spicy. If you’d like your food a bit less tongue-searing, just ask the wait staff. Well recommended are the Krapow Gai Daow, or fried chicken with holy basil, topped with

a fried egg, and the Pla Neung Manao, or steamed fish with garlic and lime.

Remember that line “naughty girl sois”?

I don’t even know where Lonely Planet got their info from, because Patpong this place ain’t. Other than an alley that is aptly named by locals as ‘Soi Disappointment”, there isn’t anything in the way of this description.

Which is fine by me.

There are some bars down near the beach that have a less than seedy look to them, but as a whole, the city is very family friendly.

Ao Phra Nang Beach has a few chilled out bars which are great for some sundowners.

If you want a bit more action, and you are in town on Friday night, Krabi Stadium holds Muay Thai matches.

During the day, there’s plenty to do to keep yourself occupied. Just a short ten minute longtail ride takes you to Rai Leh or Railay Beach, probably the most popular daytime attraction in the area. Most come to bask in the sun on the crescent shaped beach while more hardier tourists come to try their hand at rock climbing.

There are snorkeling and diving options on Railay, but they are limited, and there’s better diving to be had elsewhere. If you plan to spend the whole day beaching it, there are some restaurants that serve Western food. For those looking for some rest and relaxation without the sand, you can rent a kayak and check out the limestone karsts up close and personal.

There are some options for family fun as well.

Aonang Fiore offers zipline fun through the jungle. There are three different programmes that vary from ‘scared of heights’ level to ‘I feel like Superman’ high.

Most require a height requirement of one metre, so keep that in mind. Racers can head to Krabi Kart Speedway, which has a go-kart track with 2-stroke karts that reach up to 100 kph.

They also have two-seaters for kids who require adult supervision. Speed comes at a price, however, a 10 minute race puts your wallet back 800 baht.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 37

Writer Tegan Chapman embarks an eco-adventure into the heart of the Mongolian countryside.

F

or thousands of years, Mongolian nomads have roamed the vast steppe, living off the land and enjoying a way of life that has barely changed since the days of Genghis Khan.

At the heart of this lifestyle is the traditional ger – circular canvas and felt tents – which are synonymous with the country and are as much a part of its national identity as the annual Naadam festival.

Even in the 21st century, a huge share of the country's population live in ger, and it's in the endless grasslands of the countryside that you get a real taste of the simplicity and beauty of a nomadic way of life.

To sample this lifestyle, and be truly at one with nature, immersed in the stripped back way of life the nomads enjoy, you can stay in a ger camp in the forested hills of one of the country's many parks.

I opted for Gorkhi Terelj National Park, just a short journey from the capital Ulaanbaatar for one of the most rewarding eco-travel experiences of my life.

As you leave the capital, poorly paved 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

roads and Soviet-style blocks of flats give way to rolling hills threaded with lakes and endless grasslands dotted with ger. It’s clear to see how this is the least densely populated country in the world when lost in the stunning surroundings.

Meaning “home” in Mongolian, ger are essential to nomads due to the ease with which they can be dismantled, moved and re-erected. On a regular basis, families need to be able to quickly move their home as they set off on their travels to search for fresh and abundant pastures for their livestock.

It is the continuation of these ancient traditions, attuned to natural cycles, that is fascinating for outsiders.

The fact that many Mongolians still live the way as generations of ancestors did is at the same time humbling and commendable – try to imagine how it would be drop into this pattern of life, and leave the concept of a fixed abode of bricks and mortar behind.

Inside the ger you can expect to find the beds of the entire family, a brightly coloured

and slightly worn carpet where the family and their extended community spend the evenings, and, at the heart, a multi-purpose stove to cook traditional dishes and stave off the low night temperatures afforded by the openness of the steppe.

A night or two's stay in a ger offers an experience like no other. Living with a nomadic family, you can witness first-hand their simple way of life, learning to prepare meals, watching – or even helping – to herd livestock or viewing the annual Naadam festival.

A visit to the nation would not be complete without sampling the local tipple of airag, a sour alcoholic drink made from fermented mare's milk that is arguably an acquired taste.

It is safe to say diehard vegetarians will struggle in Mongolia, a country where vegetables are far from plentiful and meat is king. This struggle is all the more real in the countryside, where families will likely cook a special delicacy called boodog. This is where hot stones are filled into the stomach

of the dead animal, usually a goat, which is cooked in its own skin.

Offering rolling meadows and imposing rock formations, including the famous Turtle Rock, Terelj is the perfect place to take in Mongolia's natural beauty, ride a horse bareback and enjoy the nomadic way of life.

As times change and technology evolves, solar panels are now springing up on gers to allow more nomads to continue their lifestyle, but with a little added comfort and a smattering of technological tools to make communication with their community and the wider world slightly simpler.

You can now even find ger to rent on Airbnb without necessarily having to hire a tour guide or venturing out onto the steppe on your own.

And if you want to enjoy a ger camp slightly further away from the capital, you can sample the wild natural beauty this country has in abundance in the vast expanse of the Gobi desert while still enjoying the basic comforts of a traditional ger for the ultimate eco-travel experience.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 39

FOOD NEWS Savouring the tastier side of Saigon life

SO, there’s this dinner that sounds pretty cool. At the last minute before the event starts, the secret location is revealed to thousands of friends who have all been patiently waiting to learn where Dîner en Blanc will take place. Thousands of people, dressed all in white, and conducting themselves with the greatest decorum, elegance, and etiquette, all meet for a mass “chic picnic” in a public space.

Over the course of the evening, guests experience the beauty and value of their city’s public spaces by participating in the unexpected. Beyond the spectacle and elegance of the dinner itself, guests are brought together from diverse backgrounds via good taste and a love of beauty. Le Dîner en Blanc recalls the elegance and glamor of high French society, and guests engage one another, knowing that they are taking part in a truly magical event.

There are no disruptions: no car traffic, no pedestrian traffic - only amazed and astonished looks from passersby observing the scene before them. And participants, like spectators, wonder whether it’s all not a dream… http://hochiminh.dinerenblanc.info/about THERE’S more and more fresh, healthy meal delivery folks popping up all over Ho Chi Minh City: Saigon Kitchen Club provides Saigon with some of the best, healthiest food for those on a regimented diet. They strictly follow a balanced dietary meal planning strategy to ensure that all customers receive all of their macronutrients (fat, protein, carbs..) in a balanced, tasty way. They have a nutritionist and professional chef on staff, and it shows. They use no MSG, no artificial additives, and no refined white sugars. 100% pure, authentic olive oil, complex carbohydrates and fresh, trustable ingredients are utilised. www.saigonkitchenclub.com EVERYONE loves dumplings, and we can’t think of anything better than getting them delivered to your doorstep.

Dong bac dumplings welcomes all-comers to try out their handmade dumpling variations. All of their specialty recipes are cooked via authentic family recipes hailing from Northern China. There are various vegetarian options available.

SAIGON Co.op and Saigon Co.op Investment-Development Company last Saturday launched Sense Market, a new shopping model that combines food market and modern shopping places at the September 23 Park’s Zone B in HCM City’s District 1.

Opening from 8:30am to 10:00 pm daily, the Sense Market covers more than 5,000sq.m of the park’s underground and consists of the 1,500sq.m Asiana Food Town featuring nearly 100 street food booths selling foods of different countries, such as Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, Lao, Cambodian, Indian and others, and Taka Plaza with 400 booths selling different kinds of products at reasonable prices.

40 AsiaLIFE HCMC

LOCAL

EATS

Mien Xao Cua

stir-fried glass noodles with crab

BY TRISTAN NGO

Chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant and The Elbow Room.

H

ey everybody, hope you all had a great New Year’s celebration welcoming 2017 in your own memorable style, despite not having any fireworks this year.

I would like to take this opportunity to wish everyone - friends, family, near and far, a great amount of peace, joy and good health in this Year of the Red Fire Rooster.

Glass noodles, otherwise known as cellophane noodles, are well known in Vietnam, but locals know them simply as mien. Mien is translucent in appearance when cooked, normally round in shape, and originated in China. It is a starch-based noodle, usually made from mung beans, yams, potatoes or cassava. By the way, mien should not be confused with vermicelli, which are made from rice and are white in color, rather than clear, after cooking in water.

Mien is normally served for breakfast in a chicken-based broth with shredded free range chicken gizzards, hearts, congealed blood, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and bean sprouts. As delicious as it is, mien still has a long way to go in comparison to the king and queen of noodles dishes: pho and hu tieu. Mien is very unique because of the clear glass noodles, and especially so when the dish is mien xao cua (stir-fried version with crab). For me, this is a very interesting dish without the traditional broth, and well worth a try if you have not done so.

So, what makes mien xao cua unique?

The taste of mien xao is slightly al dente and a bit of char. It’s not easy to achieve this, because glass noodles are quite delicate, and if not fried perfectly they tend to clump up, and then the dish is pretty much ruined. There are many key ingredients, so everything

has to be just right. The noodles are stir fried with lots of chopped garlic, onions, sliced wood ear mushrooms, shredded carrots, fish sauce, chunks of fresh crab meat and claws. Some versions include julienned egg omelets and shredded Chinese celery. The dish is garnished with scallions, fried onions and served hot out of the pan.

A normal portion of mien xao is not big, so I would recommend ordering an extra bowl of mien. As mentioned earlier, in Vietnam ordering mien alone will generally get you a bowl of glass noodles in broth. In some places you should order a bowl of mien together with cha (if available), which is a delicious fish paste that usually comes packaged in a rectangular shape, wrapped in banana leaves.

Add a bit of this to the broth with the glass noodles for an extra level of flavour.

1. Quan Mien Cua 94 94 Dinh Tien Hoang Street Dakao Ward, District 1 Open 10am to 11pm Known for their deep-fried soft shell crab, crab egg rolls, and is one of the older mien xao cua locations in the city.

2. Quan An Thanh Binh 146 Le Thanh Ton Street Ben Thanh Ward, District 1 Known for mien cua tom (crab and shrimps), mien cang cua (crab claws), cua cang rang me (crab fried in tamarind sauce) and mien xao cua.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 41

8

CITY DRINKS

Tropicana Nguyen U Di, Hem So 4, Thao Dien, D2 // facebook.com/thewhitehouse.saigon // Everyday 4pm to 12am // 08 6681 3023

Peter Cornish gets his drink on at a new Latin-themed rooftop bar in District 2.

Photo by Vinh Dao. Thao Dien welcomed another new bar as it rung in the New Year. Some might think this an audacious date to launch, but it was a move that paid off and has created a buzz around the expat village.

Tropicana gives Thao Dieners yet another good reason for staying in their bubble. Why venture over the bridge into the city that sits on their door step when there are so many places on offer, just a few minutes stroll from the front door?

Whilst the loop offers what are undoubtedly some of the best bars in Saigon, what it has lacked is a rooftop. Until now.

Situated on the corner of 41 Street and Quoc Huong, the rooftop’s view faces down over Xuan Thuy and the river beyond. As dusk falls, the lights come on and a cool evening breeze wafts through, creating an ambience unique to the area, and the perfect place to sit with a cocktail and mull over the day that has just passed.

As you might expect from the name, Tropicana is a cocktail and music venue with a distinctly Latin theme. The décor is simple, colourful and comfortable, with brightly painted walls and high wicker stools spread out amongst lush potted palms. A good-sized bar sits to one side, and stairs go up to what will be a second-floor chill-out lounge with further views of the city.

The three owners, Bart, Martin and Frederico, are serious about their drinks and have stocked the bar to impress. The wine list is broad and reasonably priced, with premium bottles from South 42 AsiaLIFE HCMC

America, Italy and Spain. It also includes slightly more unusual bottles, such as Armagnac, Calvados and Grappa, and is one of the few bars in town to offer Port by the glass, as well as the bottle.

Their spirit selection is extensive, with the expected choice of vodka, rum, whisky and whiskey. But the bar’s focus is on Latin drinks, with Caipirinhas, Caipiroskas, and Caipirissimas accompanying classics such as Daiquiris and Margaritas, frozen or not.

Purées are made in-house with fresh ingredients.

What sets the menu apart from others is the choice of Martinis, and with over 20, they are working towards the ultimate Martini cocktail list.

The more adventurous Martini connoisseur will be tempted by The Blue & Blue, garnished with a blue cheese stuffed olive. Or perhaps The After Eight, a sweet Martini made with crème de cacao white and crème de menthe.

All priced at VND150,000.

The food menu follows a similar Latin and Hispanic theme, with a choice of traditional Mexican, South American and Spanish dishes.

At the time of writing, the bar opens daily at 6pm but plans to open for breakfast and lunch, with an extended menu.

Food and wine packages will be combined with Latin dance classes that encourage you to arrive for lunch, and stay through the evening.

This is a bar that that brings authentic Latin vibes to central Thao Dien.

3 BUFFALOS RESTAURANT 279 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 // Weekdays 3pm to Late, Weekends 11am to Late // 08 3838 8833

Elijah Ferrian learns some Serbian and is introduced to a cornucopia of grilled meats at this newcomer to backpacker street. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

Rakija, Cevapcici, Pljeskavice, what the hell does any of this mean? Serbia. Eastern european cuisine that is primed to plug right into the expat and local populations in Saigon. It’s about grilled meat, and lots of it. Welcome to the party, 3 Buffalos Restaurant.

The team at this Pham Ngu Lao spot opened on 16 December, 2016. Dragan Kostov, chef, greeted us as we walked up the staircase and into this under-the-radar location.

“I’ve lived here for five years,” Kostov tells me. “We want to introduce our Eastern way of barbeque. Plus, you must have Serbian schnapps: Rakija.”

Yes. Yes, I do need to have Rakija.

A fantastic spirit in the same vein as French eau de vie, a

colourless neutral brandy that is traditionally infused with fruit or other botanicals. It is the perfect way to prepare your stomach for a heaping meal, great for drinking with each bite, and even better when the kitchen closes at 10pm, and there’s nothing else to consume but more Rakija.

This place is like an over the top Eastern European 80s movie. They play hits from said era over the soundsystem, have live music over the weekend, healthy amounts of drinking are encouraged, and they serve the perfect fare to soak all of it up.

First comes Cevapcici.

Ground beef and pork, mixed in Traditional Lescovac Style, grilled on a slow open fire. (5pc VND80,000, 10pc VND160,000) Great tasting whipped potatoes, and a well-seasoned

salad flanked with thinly sliced tomato and chopped onion make a solid entree that is fit for any meal of the day.

Throw an egg on this and it’s breakfast. Some bread and it’s lunch. Some more Rakija and it’s dinner.

Next comes Pljeskavice.

More ground beef and pork, with onion mixed in and grilled slow on an open fire (5 chevapa VND100,000, 10 Chevapa VND200,000, 15 Chevapa VND300,000). Think of these as Serbian hamburgers. Delicious.

Chicken liver and bacon (5pc VND75k, 10pc 150k, 12pc 175k).

Hungarian-style chicken livers wrapped in bacon. Rich, irony flavours blended with the salty smoke of slow-cooked bacon.

The mixed grill platter is what they truly love to showcase. It’s the most Serbian way to eat. Talk to Dragan

about recommendations when you head in. It’s a smattering of every meat under the sun.

Bring your gang of traveling, muscle-shirted broskis, and chow down. There’s enough protein at 3 Buffalos to satiate all the gyms in Saigon.

VND650,000 per person for free-flow meat. I wasn’t kidding above. Plus, included in this price is all you can drink Tiger draft, house wine, or soft drinks. It’s only VND250,000 for children. Just, you know, no beer.

3 Buffalos serves craft beer as well. Pasteur (VND95,000 for 375m pours) Heineken (VND40,000) Hoegaarden (VND95,000) Tiger (VND35,000, Tower 300k). Strongbow cider selection for those gluten free folks (VND 45,000).

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FAT SHAGGY’S 97D Thao Dien // Weekdays 3pm to Late, Weekends 11am to Late // 0126 493 5389

Elijah Ferrian gets a most pleasant surprise stepping into a comfy bar that’s made for people that like rock n’ roll jams and actually talking to other human beings. Photos by Vinh Dao.

Alex Mage and his business partner opened Fat Shaggy’s in August of 2016. The idea behind the concept was simple: they wanted to open an unpretentious bar that was welcoming. A place that’s good, affordable, but without having to sacrifice on quality.

They’ve got it down pretty damn well.

After being in Vietnam for 10 years, and experiencing so many letdowns when it came to good food from back West, Alex is from Maryland in the US, he and his partner decided to just do it themselves.

The food is the closest thing to properly done American bar fare I have come across.

“We do everything ourselves to have affordable, high quality food,” Mage says. “We grind our own sausages, make our own bread, make our own 44 AsiaLIFE HCMC

sauces. We limit menu size and rotate it out to keep it interesting, for me and the guests.”

The interior and ambience of Fat Shaggy’s is a contemporary Cheers. Regulars chatting each other up, and even engaging with newcomers. I know, shocking.

Movie posters boasting cult titles like Evil Dead II and Big Trouble in Little China.

The Doom video game poster spying me from a back wall is a warm blast from my kidgaming past.

The music is on point. 90s jams with a healthy sprinkling of 70s and 80s classics. Anyone that likes to spend too much time in bars will agree that the music being played sets the tone for just about everything.

“Nobody can put Justin Bieber on, or anything like

that,” Mage laughs. “People don’t really know what to expect when they see the name and the size of the place. We really do try hard to make great food, and I think that’s the most surprising part about if for people. People that have been here for awhile get a little jaded, how many subpar meals can you have?”

Shaggy’s 100% Unauthentic Tacos (VND99,000 on Tuesdays) are seriously close to “real” tacos. If you’ve been missing Latin cuisine while in Asia, this is a good meal to ease the pain.

They make their own corn tortillas and wrap them over seasoned chicken, avocado, and mango salad, or pan seared snapper with dill, turmeric, green onion and curry sauce.

Shaggy’s Cheesy Bacon Balls (VND99,000) are real. Just get them.

There’s a burger called “The Dirty Martin” (VND215,000).

I could explain it to you, but I think it would be more fun if all you knew of it was that someone extremely high came up with the concept, and it’s reevaluate your life good.

Vegetarians take note, the Israeli Falafel plate (VND150,000) is outstanding and made with all the love.

They use fresh chickpeas, make the tahini in house and it’s served with homemade flat bread and greek salad. Easily one of the most solid “bar food” vegetarian dishes I’ve had in the city.

Happy hour is everyday from 3 to 7pm, 50% off draught beer, glasses of wine, house cocktails, and house pours. Like you need any more reasons to check this place out. There’s a new “greatest bar in town”.

THE RIVER CAFE RESTAURANT 199 Nguyen Van Huong St, Thao Dien // 0907 65 66 67 // 7am to 10pm Everyday

Elijah Ferrian knocks on heaven’s door at this sleepy, compact farmstead restaurant on the Saigon river. A newcomer to Thao Dien. Photos by Vinh Dao.

The River Cafe Restaurant opened on their beautiful, waterfront property on 20 September 2016. Mr. Vuong, owner, wanted to make a place that is comfortable for locals and expats to come and hang, listen to some great live music and enjoy traditional Vietnamese dishes.

Nguyen Truong Sinh, manager, designer and lead marketer for the business, has been a busy man.

“We tried to do, in one restaurant, a very classic, open Vietnamese style of dining,” Nguyen explained. “We wanted to serve traditional Vietnamese cuisine to everyone in Thao Dien, but make it unique to the area.”

When you walk onto the property, down a dirt road off the beaten path, one can’t help but feel that they have

stumbled onto something that is a bit of a secret, nestled cozily up to the river’s edge.

“We wanted to do everything,” Nguyen continued. “Farming, retail, restaurant, and in the future we will create one more small farm area for kids, complete with a sandpit to play around in. We are very kid friendly here.”

Not only does this place appeal to folks with rugrats running around, but it’s mindful of the popularity, and necessity, of supplying a product that appeals to cleanliness, health and environmentally-friendly practices as much as possible.

“We use the vegetables from the farm to ensure the high quality of the vegetables and produce we use in our restaurant,” Nguyen proudly says.

Food started off with a platter of various seafood and vegetable appetizers (VND250,000). Lotus salad with shrimp and pork, “River Cafe” spring rolls with seafood, vermicelli and shrimp cakes, steamed vegetables in fish sauce, and a delectable fried squid in a chilli and fish sauce marinade. A great introduction to some standby favourites.

Perhaps one of the finest beer snacks was discovered on this visit: smoked buffalo meat (VND170,000). It’s a speciality from Northern Vietnam, and it puts snails to shame. Salty, fire-smoked, pull apart buffalo meat surrounded with fresh herbs, and a tantalising pepper sauce with lime. We could not for the life of us figure out exactly what this pepper mix was, but we do know that it’s expensive if you can find it, and

sends this shareable plate from great, to another planet.

For our final dip into the menu, we lined up an ornate bird. Not what you’re thinking.

Out comes a tinfoil-molded swan on a platter, filled with a delectable combination of tofu, shrimp, mushrooms, and a medley of vegetables (VND125,000). Piping hot and flavoured well, it was a lot of food, and the craftsmanship behind the artistic display was endearing. It’s not a duck! It’s a swan.

As if the setting of this restaurant isn’t enjoyable enough, there’s a band of lovely Vietnamese men every Saturday Sunday afternoons around 5pm, that play fantastic music together, and had everyone in the place taking out their phones to record the moment.

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ix & Paint is a cultural venue bringing together different artists from graphic urban culture, pop culture and contemporary arts scenes.

The space is a full-service restaurant with a daily happy hour from 5 to 7pm, coffee shop, and music and arts venue. The live performance area has a ton of potential to be District 2’s answer to the shuttering of Cargo Bar, a gigantic blow to the music scene in Ho Chi Minh City.

DJs, comics, international graphic and graffiti artists will be in residence.

Every month on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, artists will be invited to run workshops, and will subsequently create live art directly in front of the public. After all performances, the artist’s productions are exhibited in the Mix & Paint gallery.

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The mission statement for this new arrival is to explore the boundaries between different artistic disciplines, and allow everyone to be enriched by various influences from across the globe. For a long time, this art movement has been gaining momentum, but unfortunately, there has been a lack of flagship events in Vietnam that put the spotlight on graphic artistic creations and the local contemporary art community.

All of our productions are rooted in urban popular culture. Therefore Mix & Paint sets its sights on enhancing the arts through support for artistic production and the dissemination of a wide variety of different artwork .

Mix & Paint 93 Xa Lộ Hà Nội, P. Thảo Điền, Quận 2.

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SAFARI, a popular brand in Singapore and Vietnam for over 10 years. Built by Designer Ho Tran Da Thao, winner of many international fashion awards. Tsafari brings the designer’s memories from travels in New York, Paris and London.

Printed on a variety of materials with a wide variety of choices from casual to formal, and even custom-made wedding dresses. The Royal Blossoms collection is the latest release from Tsafari, unveiling in the first quarter of 2017. The concept behind Royal Blossoms is using 3D technique to bring women to their feminine nature, yet still maintaining a strong, simplified look, combined with the luxury feel of high-quality materials.

Available for all sizes at: 16 Nguyen Trai, D1.

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listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villa has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515 www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport

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and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat café, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

This resort is located on Cua Dai Beach in Hoi An, just five minutes from the Old Town and 30 minutes from the Da Nang airport. The property has 82 rooms and villas, all with private balconies or terraces facing the ocean, a swimming pool and a wide range of cuisine from around the world.

Indochine Palace 105A Hung Vuong Street, Hue City Tel: 054 393 6666 www.indochinepalace.com Surrounded by the lush exotic garden, the hotel has is designed to appeal to the affluent, up-market leisure and business travellers with facilities offering for meetings, incentives, conferences, and exhibitions.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

NHA TRANG

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel.

Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG Boutique Hoi An Resort Tel: 84 51 03 93 91 11 www.boutiquehoianresort.com

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne,

Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

The Imperial Hotel 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym.

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Level 8 157 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

EXO Travel HCMC: 41, Thao Dien, D2

Tel: 3519 4111 saigonagency@exotravel.com HANOI: 3rd Fl, 66A, Tran Hung Dao Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 hanoiagency@exotravel.com www.traveltrade.exotravel.com iViVu www.ivivu.com Offering the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels - as well as tips and up-todate travel news on Vietnam.

Terraverde 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specializing in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions.

AIRLINES Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap

flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Thai Airways Ground Floor Suite 101 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 08 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to Economy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

listings

food & drink Dublin’s Gate D1 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar D2 7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

DISTRICT 1 Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 086 263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic

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Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

excellent food and even better prices.

Service is friendly and efficient and always welcoming.

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. 

Jake’s BBQ 50 Pasteur Street, D1 Tel: 08 3825 1311 Genuine, warm service from Chef Jake himself sets this American Barbeque joint apart. A true slice of Americana in Vietnam. Large portions, smoked meats, and the only ‘Jucy Lucy’ burger in town! 

May Restaurant & Bar 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com We have over 20 years experience in hospitality business in Vietnam with some famous Brand such as Shodow Bar & Café and MAY Restaurant & Bar. MAY- short for ‘Me and You’, it is all in one premium casual kitchen & bar downtown. Located centrally on the historic Dong Khoi street with a fusion of Western and Asian cuisine and pride themselves in their wine list and international standard of service.

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Chilli Pub 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Tel: 098 376 33 72 Located in the heart of the nightlife area of District 1, Chilli pub is a cozy bar full of fun. Hosting regular events such as quiz night, darts, live music and live sports on the big screens. Menu revolves around Chili dishes with chili dogs and of course big bowls of Chilli.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Com Nha 151/6 Dong Khoi, D1 Home-cooked Vietnamese dishes straight from the countryside. Owner and head-chef, Ngoc Anh, takes pride in everything she does, and it shows.

Con Bo Map 178/4B Pasteur, D1 Tel: 08 38 246 607 A small, modest space hidden down an alley off Pasteur serving some of the best burgers in town.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

Game On Sport Pub 115 Ho Tung Mau, District 1 Tel: 08 62 51 98 98 www.gameonsaigon.com A great place to catch all the latest live games while enjoying some great food and a few drinks with friends. The two big screens showing the games via satellite means you will never miss a minute of the action, while the kitchen serves up some truly hearty pub grub.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo,

Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australianinfluenced international fusion cuisine.

Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Kay’s Vegan Bistro Hem 84 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 090 395 81 69 Homemade vegan delights from all over Southeast Asia and beyond. With daily specials and ingredients available to take home, it’s a hit with the locals.

Koto 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 Tel: (+84) 3822 9357 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Kissho boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

La Brasserie 2nd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3925 7777 Offers wide international buffet stations for breakfast and dinner. Nightly live music performance.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Malt 46 – 48 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 1848 4763 American-style bar that offers good beer, shuffleboard and an interesting pub grub menu in a casual setting.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies.

Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Ming Court 3rd Floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3925 7777 Featuring authentic Chinese cuisine and a wide selection of delectable All-youcan-eat Dim Sum. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs.

Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: +84 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

OMG 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D1 Tel: 09 37 20 02 22 Perched on the ninth-floor rooftop of a hotel adjacent to Ben Thanh market, OMG has superb views over downtown Saigon and food to match. The menu is focused but includes enough choices to satisfy everyone across hot and cold starters, pasta and risotto, mains and dessert.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Quan Bui Add 1: 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 Add 2: 55 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this fourfloor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 08 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world.

Private rooms are available.

offers everything from wine to drinks and snacks to full-blown meals, its cocktails are the reason to visit.

Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 105-107 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 90 900 4294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients. 

Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 - 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 08 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Saigon’s Lookout 37bis, Ky Con, D1 Tel: 0966 884 668 Saigon’s Lookout is one of Saigon’s hidden gems where east meets west, with a menu of twisted Vietnamese cuisine complimented by funky oriented cocktails.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Shrine 64 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 08 39 142 817 ShrineBarSaigon.com A sleek cocktail bar on a street full of beer and football, Shrine is a standout for its décor and drink menu. Shrine

The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs.

Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 35 21 85 13 Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

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DISTRICT 2 BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare. 

By Richie Fawcett

Ebisu 66 Song Hanh, D2 08 6276 8787 The city’s soba noodle specialists bring authenticity and professional service to the Japanese table. Sushi and grilled skewers are also specialities,

IMBIBE TASTE AND FLAVOuR Acid. No, I’m not talking about the late 1990’s dance music craze that started in a little club in London and spread around the world. I’m talking about the vital component of every balanced cocktail. The ever present battle between sweet and sour.

In this part of the world, the natural go-to food and drink taste is on the sweet side to say the least. The refreshing street drink called nuoc mia is essentially pure sugarcane juice with ice.

Sweet things make the medicine go down better, and long before Mary Poppins was popping sugar coated pills down the throats of the children in her care, bartenders had developed an understanding of the customers in their care.

What’s happening in the bar these days however, is that we are borrowing from the kitchen, not just in technique, but in the ingredients used in making cocktails. So, with that in mind, it’s vitally important to achieve balanced drinks. Nowadays we on the bar learn how to use herbs and spices in cocktails, combining these tastes and flavors to perfection.

In the same way as taste has opposite sensations, these sensations are then broken down into flavors, and eventually ingredients in cocktail recipes that work well together by complimenting each other.

What is taste? Taste is considered one of the five senses that we as humans all possess, though there is no judge for good or bad taste, everyone is different. Along with sight, hearing, smell

and touch, we are constantly monitoring situations, people, environments and the food and drink we consume. The foundation for all these senses working together is to ensure that we will survive.

Back in the Paleolithic times early humans relied on their sense of taste to guide them to what to eat. Sweet generally meant safe. Sour and bitter would mean not safe.

That said, Fred Flintstone and Barney Rubble would guzzle pints of sweet honeyed beer at the bedrock bar before going home to the sour wives putting the dinner in the bin.

For a long time, probably around the last 2000 years or so, it was commonly accepted that there is a finite and small number of basic tastes of which the seemingly complex tastes are ultimately composed. In the same way as in art, there are the primary colors which go to make up the secondary’s and so on. The four basics tastes are Sweet, Sour, Bitter and Salty. We touched on Sour and Sweet already.

Salt is naturally present in seafood due to the proximity to the sea. Salt is a flavor enhancer and helps to quench thirst. While not all cocktails need salt, however cocktails with added salt do have a heightened flavor because of this.

Bitter is an acquired taste.

Probably the least popular taste for good reason. Most plants in nature are poisonous. There are a few exceptions, such as coffee and dark chocolate, hops and bitter melon.

Shri Restaurant and Lounge manager Richie Fawcett is an artist who sits on Asia’s 50 best bars voting panel.

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Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 083 744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

DTwo Sports Bar 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 35 194 138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs. Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  Pop Fries 14M Quoc Huong, D2 Tel: 09 3875 4251 French fries topped with a range of fresh ingredients inspired by dishes across the world.

Quan Bui Garden 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 3898 9088 From the team behind Quan Bui, this D2 spot has all the chic design and ambience, with a gorgeous garden setting designed to attract a more upmarket clientele.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

DISTRICT 3 Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City outposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice

show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hu Tieu Nam Vang Lien Hua 381 Vo Van Tan, D3 www.LienHua.com.vn Lien Hua has been serving Chinese­ Khmer noodle soup on this spot for over forty years. Pork and shrimp set hu tieu Nam Vang apart from your average pho while the house speciality dim sum selection is unmissable Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

DISTRICT 5 Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

DISTRICT 7 Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

PHU NHUAN Iki Ground Floor, Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Saigon’s trendiest Japanese restaurant turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head, with a wide yet very affordable menu from Bento boxes, yummy tempura or fresh madeto-oder sushi and sashimi.

Tung Garden

1st floor, Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.eastinhotelsresidences.com Invites you to indulge in a unique and unforgettable fine dining experience with more than 130 seats & 4 private rooms. The restaurant features enticing Chinese cuisine and Dim Sum along with a full lunch and dinner menu.

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

at home DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 Takashimaya Saigon Center 65 Le Loi, D1 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 08 3914 4376 This town is definitely big enough for two Australian butchers. Reasonably priced imported beef, fish, chicken, and more at this original neighbourhood fixture.

Meatworks Butchery 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 3744 2565 Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, and locally sourced pork and chicken..

Proudly Australian owned and managed.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 2E/10 Binh Phu, D6 Tel: 3876 9719 Tan Thoi Hiep, D12 Tel: 3717 2979 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares-basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported allnatural products.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 14 Pham Hong Thai, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

listings

By Phil Kelly

FITNESS 4 Great Morning Habits Highly successful people seem to have a lot of the same habits. To make 2017 a success the most important period of your day is when you first wake up. The facts suggest that whether you’re an “up-and-at-’em” or stumbling out of bed person, the way you spend the morning sets the tone for the rest of the day. New York Best-Selling Author and life-hacker Tim Ferriss comments, “If you win the morning, you win the day”.

1 - Make your bed: This simple task is beneficial for a number of reasons. For example, a sense of accomplishment by having completed the first task of the day. This encourages you to do more tasks, it teaches you that the little things matter, and will give you a sense of being productive, which will set you on the right path for the rest of the day. Finally, if you’ve had a bad day you’ll come home to a made bed giving a sense of comfort and encouragement that tomorrow will be better.

2 - Drink: Hydration is incredibly important.

One of the biggest problems with the modern diet is dehydration.

Dehydration causes the enzymatic activity in the body to slow down, resulting in tiredness and fatigue. Water is the most vital source of energy in the body. In the morning your body has been without hydration for, hopefully, 8 hours, so to kick start all your bodily and mental functions drinking 500ml to 1ltr of water is an excellent way to set

yourself up to get the most out of your day 3 - Exercise & Stretch: Move in the morning… release the endorphins rush that will make you feel amazing, combat stress and clear your mind. It’s not about being in perfect shape, but you have to move your body to move your brain and ideas around. It doesn’t need to be a lot, 1-2 minutes of intense exercise or a walk around the block to feel energized. You can still go to the gym later.

4 - Think Positive: What you think you will believe!

Positive thoughts radiate out and turn into positive actions, which in turn create positive habits.

Positive habits will transform into positive results! A positive outlook is essential for positive change.

If we can change the way we think it has an immense impact on everything in our lives.

Affirmations and visualizations are the best methods of doing this – I know it sounds airy-fairy but it really does work! Say positive statements every morning when you get up and as many times as you can incorporate it throughout the day. You need to say these out loud and repeat them at least 5 times each. By completing these affirmations highly successful people become more open to optimism and inspiration and improve their outlook in life.

A constructive routine in the morning will provide clarity of thought, a positive mindset, and most of all, successful results for the rest of the day.

Phil Kelly is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation. His services are available at Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him through his website phil-kelly.com or facebook.com/ BodyExpertSystemsVietnam.

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sports & leisure

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters

programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info C The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese SchoolM in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Y Saigon Pony Club CM Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, MY riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.CY Squash CMY The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 K www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Care 1 Executive Health Care Center in the Manor is the main facility for health screening and wellness check-ups.

To fit into your busy life, Care 1 offers one stop service - modern, comprehensive healthcare services and state-of the-art facilities all in one place.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. With the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 08 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 08 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral,

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the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy. .

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 216 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 5845 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 119 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 2918 Parkson CT Plaza, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 2095 Parkson Cantavil, D2 Tel: 6296 0265 Diamond Plaza, D1 Tel: 3822 1887 check out more outlet via website www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

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family ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection shown are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys

from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 08 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 2 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage.

All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma

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programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools

By Shannon Brown

EDUCATION HUB Encouraging Empathy in Children Empathy – the ability to understand how others are feeling and respond with compassion – is an emotional skill that often seems to be in short supply in children and adults today. Empathy leads to the social skills and personal relationships which make our lives intricate and beautiful, so teachers and parents must learn up-todate methods to encourage empathy in childhood.

Parents can start to encourage empathy in infants and young toddlers by creating a strong loving bond with their children and modeling kindness and calm behaviors. Around 6 months, children begin to use social referencing – they look carefully at their parent’s reactions to gauge how to respond to new people and situations.

It is beneficial for parents to respond positively and joyfully to create a sense of safety and security. Between 18 and 24 months, children begin to recognize themselves in the mirror, which indicates a firm sense of self. This is also when they first begin to show theory of mind – they can identify their own feelings and desires and start to perceive that other people have separate feelings and desires.

A child is ready to exhibit empathy after they can recognize the common feelings that most people experience – happiness, anger, sadness, etc. – and are able to look at a situation and

imagine how they might feel in the moment. In the home, parents must start with safety.

Parents should build consistent family routines in the morning and at bedtime, and set consistent meal times, chore assignments, and limits on play or internet time.

Parents build empathy by telling stories so that children learn to see the world from other perspectives and by helping children notice the lives of others.

Kids also need chances to calm themselves, regulate their emotions, delay gratification, and stay focused.

These self-regulation skills help children look beyond themselves.

Parents must model empathy and make discussing emotions a regular part of their lives. Most importantly, parents must model love.

Sornson states, “When you love someone, you give energy and attention to notice their well-being.”

IWell-established rules and routines help children recognize which behaviors lead to positive outcomes.

Teachers should consider developing a clear set of expectations about how adults will treat students in the classroom and how students will treat each other.

Commitments to respect must be made and honored.

Teachers should also model empathy and use great literature to inspire students to understand the experience of others.

Shannon Brown is a head teacher at Little Genius International Kindergarten with a Master’s in Public Health. She cultivates healthy living by practicing yoga and rock climbing and has been living and teaching in HCM since 2014.

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EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an educa-

tion tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

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living By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE The Change There are many reasons why you have chosen to work and live abroad, and picked Vietnam for your place of habitation. It is obviously not for everyone, but for the majority of us, when this mad and crazy country gets under your skin, it is awfully difficult to break away from it. The allure grabs you and wants to keep you here.

Once you embrace this, you start planning for life here. That could be in business, with a family or looking to buy (take a long lease hold on) a house or apartment.

For some people this is just a natural progression, but for others, some people wake up one day to the realisation that they have turned into their own father. They are no longer the happy go lucky young man that landed here with so many ideas, wishes and dreams.

They look at themselves in the mirror and think “when did I get old”?

The “success” stereotype in my home country is for you to start sleeping with your secretary and buy a little red sports car. Here it may be similar, but with a barmaid and a larger motorbike. The male menopause, or andropause, exists. It’s a real thing. The term was coined by doctors Carl Heller and Gordon Myers over 40 years ago in the peer-reviewed Journal of the American Medical Association.

It has been proven not to be just biological, but also economical.

You still work hard like you have been for years, but now

for the first time that you can remember, the spare change in your wallet feels like it is burning a hole. I truly believe that a part of the menopause is having to learn again what it is like to be free of the money related issues that you have had for years, due to bringing up a family, mixed with a hormonal change that can show itself with a mild depression. Spending money on something for yourself releases the same endorphins and dopamine (the happy hormone) that you have been missing.

Now I am not going to tell anyone not to do anything that makes them feel good about themselves. For male mental health, it is needed and healthy.

What isn’t healthy though are whole scale changes to your life that can affect you and your finances for decades to come. Getting to this point in life where you have been able to have a few dollars in your back pocket, you have done something right. Don’t ruin it now. Make some smart choices with not just you in your thoughts, put your family in the picture as well.

Finally, if you are thinking about going the route of the barmaid and the new powerful bike, just two things: Firstly, condoms may be cheap but children and divorce lawyers aren’t. Secondly, if you are buying a big bike, a doctor friend tells me a nickname for men who get into their fifties and decide to buy a weekend big bike to try to relive their youth is: organ donors.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

Crown Worldwide Movers 2ndFl 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org / www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Kiet Camera Ground Floor, Lucky Plaza, 69 Dong Khoi, D1 Ver reliable shop with large range of kit

and very good prices. If he hasn’t got in stock, Kiet can quickly find it.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

Thuan My 32 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 2 Thao Dien, D2 Apple Authorized reseller and Premium Service Provider of Apple computers and products. Excellent service and Englishspeaking staff.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team-building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specialises in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Services include team-building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specialising in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and IT IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

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By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER The Value of Strategic HR Recently we’ve had a couple of situations where the value of a strategic approach to human resources – and I particularly mean recruitment – is showing itself to be of great benefit. Let me explain.

The value of strategic recruitment comes in being able to manage a client across several countries and to have one senior HR contact point at the head office. This is especially important if line managers want to work with their favoured recruiters: HR can step in to make sure that there is consistent quality of recruitment and, importantly, the processes that back that up to ensure that the best talent is recruited and then – of just as much importance – retained.

Remember my column last month where the company had a retention problem? Until recently that was partly down to a haphazard recruitment policy where managers could do what they wanted. It looked good from a pure recruitment point of view, but translated poorly when they analysed talent retention. And there is the real cost: losing people is more expensive than bringing them in.

Most companies – and I’m not exaggerating – will accept candidates from almost any source, whether that be direct applicants (advertised or not), internal staff referrals (watch out for relatives with different names!) or from agencies (usually involving a fee). Naturally I’m going to focus on accepting candidates from agencies – and explain

why using multiple agencies is, generally, a bad idea.

Success-based agencies work on the principle of ‘no placement, no fee’. Now that sounds good for an employer, but let’s look – strategically – at what it really means. For starters, they don’t really care about the employer; they care about placing a candidate and collecting a fee.

It doesn’t matter to them whether this is the best candidate, or whether the cultural fit is right, they only want to have that candidate hired. There’s no loyalty there; it’s a transaction, not a relationship with a trusted client.

The flip side, of course, is that while the contingency agency is busy sending resumes to the HR department, they are probably equally busy identifying the best staff at the same company so that they can send them to their other clients. So much for loyalty.

A smart and strategic HR department will sit down with a handful of agencies and clearly establish expectations – in both directions. In return the agency should undertake not to solicit that client’s staff (if they respond to an advertisement that’s usually ok).

As a retained executive search firm we don’t advertise, so our proposition to a client is simple: you pay us to put people in, and we simply don’t take people out.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

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International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

services available upon request.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Linh’s White 67 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

ELECTRONICS

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to refrigerators.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design

Gaya 6/39A Tran Nao Street 12, D2 Tel: 3740 6009 www.gayavietnam.com Gaya is re launching with new name at the new location featuring the work of foreign designers: furniture and lighting

by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and other home accessories and outdoor furniture .

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 / www.roedl.com European legal firms assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia

Thieu, D3 / Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

By Adina Weinand

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

ARTS & CRAFTS JOURNAL

RELOCATION AGENTS

Starting A Creative Business In Saigon

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble. !"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

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Abundant resources, inexpensive start-up costs, and a thriving and supportive entrepreneurship community make Saigon “the place to be”.

Doing business here is very different than what we’d expect in the West, with ever-changing business laws and vague visa and work permit requirements, but the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages if done right.

Start as small as possible.

Expanding is easy and inexpensive – starting large often involves financial or governmental snags that may complicate or slow your opening process. Start-up costs are cheap, and once you lay the groundwork for your business there are many avenues and opportunities waiting to be explored.

Utilize your market. In a city as big and ever-changing as Ho Chi Minh, there is always a target market for virtually anything you’d like to do – but maybe it’s just a matter of reaching them. With a small and well-connected expat community, word of mouth is often the best advertisement, and networking at local businesses and events to spread the word on your endeavor often brings great feedback and support.

Be resourceful and patient in finding materials. I’ve found that you can find anything, literally anything, you might need to support your creative endeavors here, but sometimes it takes a little extra searching, especially if you don’t speak Vietnamese

well or don’t know the city well.

Most markets (from the craft market to the industrial markets to the fabric markets) sell wholesale or at cheaper prices than shops. That being said, do a lot of research on the cost of materials before buying, as you can easily pay too much for materials or equipment without knowing how much things should really be.

Know the different types of business ownerships. Foreignowned, joint-venture, etc. A thorough google search or a reputable lawyer can help with this information. Foreigners no longer need a Vietnamese partner to own a business, however it is still an advantage to partner somebody that is trustworthy, but only if absolutely necessary. Partnering with someone you don’t know well can cause of lot of additional problems. Your embassy or chamber of commerce can answer your questions free of charge, or can recommend a reputable lawyer to help you get started.

Know yourself well and the goals you want to achieve. The more focused and honed-in to your goals you are, the easier it will be to reach out and achieve them. Know what you want to do and how you want to get there, what you care about most in your business and what isn’t of top priority. Be prepared to think outside the box and have patience while achieving them.

For every obstacle encountered there are at least 3 ways to overcome it.

Adina Weinand is an arts educator. Check her classes at: facebook.com/saigonleatherworkshop.

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Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

READY TO WEAR unisex L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1

Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Retro KID 345/3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 0909 168 350 Featured Street wear imported from Thailand and US as well as local designmen’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of accessories.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

women

ER-Couture Boutique 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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Pet Coach (Free) | Pet Coachis a useful source of pet health advice and tips from qualified veterinarians and experts.

Users who sign up for Pet Coach can easily post questions about pet health, nutrition, training and behavior to veterinarians, trainers and other verified pet care experts. Users can peruse the forums and post general questions for free; for more specific advice, users can arrange for a paid consultation.

Whether you own a dog or cat of any breed or more exotic pets like a horse or reptile, Pet Coach can help you find out what you need.

Game for Cats (Free) | So, it’s the world’s greatest game for cats. Little Hiccup’s Game for Cats is an old hand in the cat apps field, with simple gameplay that has your furry friend chasing a simulated laser pointer, a mouse, or a moth. While the iPad version has been out a while, the app has just launched on Android devices, allowing users to play with their cats regardless of mobile OS. Game for Cats offers the laser pointer mode for free, while the mouse and moth modes are available with an in-app purchase. Everyone knows that their cat loves playing games just as much as they themselves do. This application give your pets the opportunity to game as hard as you. Just be wary, every time you whip that iPad out, your cat is going to be all over you trying to get in on the action.

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Animal Poison Control Center App (Free) | The ASPCA’s has a fantastic app in case you ever find yourself in a health emergency with your pooch or kitty. The Animal Poison Control Center app, a handy guide to common household items, drugs, hazards and plants that can be toxic or dangerous for dogs, cats, birds or horses. Users can search for a particular substance or plant or filter by species. They can also get a color coded risk assessment, a list of expected symptoms and suggested actions, poison calculators for things like chocolate or rat poison and —most importantly — a one-touch dial to the ASPCA’s poison control hotline.

Dog Monitor ($4.99) | This is the first dog monitor app in the App Store with unlimited reach. It is a must-have for any pet owner. With the Dog Monitor app, you can easily turn any two iOS devices into a full-featured dog monitor in a matter of seconds. No registration or connection adjustments required. Wide sensitivity settings assure that you won’t miss any noise. Is your dog barking or chewing up your new shoes? Do you want to talk to him even if you’re not home? No problem. The Dog Monitor app lets you talk to your dog remotely from anywhere. There’s even an adjustable light feature, which allows you to check-in on your pet even when it is dark. Video stream requires iOS 6 or greater. You’ll always know what your dog is up to because the app works on both WiFi and cellular networks.

FIFTY SHADES DARKER As the follow up to Fifty Shades of Grey, expect more steamy scenes and bedroom action as the screen adaptation of the smash hit books by British author E.L. James continues. When a wounded Christian Grey (Jamie Dornan) tries to entice a cautious Anastasia Steele (Dakota Johnson) back into his life, she demands a new arrangement before she will give him another chance. As the two begin to build trust and find stability, shadowy figures from Christian’s past start to circle them, determined to destroy their hopes for a future together.

PATRIOTS DAY Based on the real events that unravelled when the Boston bombers struck on Apr. 15, 2013, Patriots Day follows the tragedy that ensued when two bombs explode during the Boston Marathon. In the aftermath of the attack, police sergeant Tommy Saunders (Mark Wahlberg), FBI Special Agent Richard DesLauriers (Kevin Bacon) and Commissioner Ed Davis (John Goodman) join courageous survivors, first responders and other investigators in a race against the clock to hunt down the suspects and bring them to justice.

THE LEGO BATMAN MOVIE Combing Lego with Batman was always going to be a hit, and The Lego Batman Movie promises to be just that. As a spin-off to the 2014 film, The Lego Movie, it features the voices of Will Arnett, Zach Galifianakis, Michael Cera, Rosario Dawson and Ralph Fiennes. There are big changes brewing in Gotham, but if Batman (Arnett) wants to save the city from the Joker’s (Galifianakis) hostile takeover, he may have to drop the lone vigilante thing, try to work with others and maybe, just maybe, learn to lighten up.

RINGS For those brave enough to sit through the first two – I certainly wasn’t – then Rings is the third in the horror series, renowned for its super scary scenes. Set 13 years after the last episode, Julia (Matilda Lutz) becomes worried about her boyfriend Holt (Alex Roe) when he explores a dark subculture surrounding a mysterious videotape said to kill the viewer seven days after seeing it. She sacrifices herself to save her boyfriend and in doing so makes a horrifying discovery: there is a movie within the movie that no one has ever seen before.

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Hoang Khanh Duong, 26, Senior PR & Marketing Executive at La Veranda Resort, MGallery by Sofitel

Thanh Nha Nguyen Thi, 26, Front Office Supervisor at Novotel Saigon Centre Hotel

Listening to: Jazz and oldies.

My favourite musical artist is Norah Jones.

Listening to: : Vietnamese Bolero and Pop, English EDM, R&B, country. I don’t have any special favorite artists or idols but I usually listen to Allan Walker, Maroon 5, Carrie Underwood, Nhu Quynh, and Trinh Thang Binh.

The coolest pet I have ever seen is: Golden Retriever, owned by a tourist whom I met on my trip to Hong Kong. He’s looking so nice with a golden smooth fur; and especially he’s so friendly to be acquainted with and take a photo with. He even knew the meaning of “selfie”.

Cameron Speirs-Hutton, 29, English Teacher Listening to: I don’t mind a bit of gypsy music, my favourite gypsy band would have to be Romengo, their album Kétháné is pretty special. Otherwise I quite enjoy listening to house, I don’t follow anyone in particular.

The coolest pet I have ever seen is: There was this St Bernard back home that you’d see around the city a fair bit. I think he belonged to the owner of a cafe I used to go to. I’m generally impressed by obedient dogs, to carry his own lead in his mouth and was super obedient.

He wasn’t at all intimidating.

The coolest pet I have ever seen is: I was impressed by a school of fish belongs to my friend since they are super cute and they look like the fish Nemo in Disney cartoon which I believed does not exist in reality.

Loc Dinh Thien, 26, Florist Listening to: Pop and country. I’m a big fan of Pentatonix.

The coolest pet I have ever seen is: Jeff- a red parrot of my American neighbor.

His plumage looks cool. He can crack all kinds of nuts and do silly tricks all day.

Sean Patrick O’Callaghan, 33, Kindergarten Teacher at VAS Listening to: I’m listening to a lot of The Weeknd. I’m always playing Starboy from his new album. I listen to a lot of hip hop and RnB. I like Kanye West, Childish Gambino, and J Cole. I also listen to some Irish music like Damien Dempsey to remind me of home.

The coolest pet I have ever seen is: It’s probably not cool but I’m quite envious. A friend of mine lives on a farm, his sister is a jockey. Where I’m from in Ireland is popular for horse racing. She buys horses, trains them and sells them at a profit. I’ve always loved horses and I thought it would be cool to work with animals and make money while doing it.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 71

Bradley Green recognises consumer culture over the holidays while visiting family in the UK.

B

eing back in blighty, right in the thick of the pre-Christmas consumerist hell, did make me laugh. It was more a fake, nervous laugh, but still. I may not be in the majority, but i find it all rather bizarre.

Now, I can see how the holidays are mostly for the kids, as of course, I used to go mad for it. I used to be so excited waiting so impatiently to see if old Saint Nicholas had brought me that Game Boy, or the Optimus Prime toy that was most definitely the best thing since sliced bread. I couldn’t possibly live without these toys.

However, I am no longer an innocent, wee whippersnapper, but rather, quite obviously, a grizzled old grinch. Though I may be lying a little, because I did have a really nice Christmas spent with my family eating fine foods and drinking fine wines. Alternating from beers, gin, port, sherry, whisky, and plenty in between. Playing games, having a laugh, and just generally having a nice time.

So, what’s my beef?

I had a fine time, not because

72 AsiaLIFE HCMC

of any particular gift, but because we were all hanging out together, spreading the love and cracking wise. This is exactly what we are told it is all about. Yet, It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that little nugget. It’s all rather obvious, so why do we go along with this tripe? I’d never deny a child a nice present, or ever ruin the Christmas party, at least knowingly.

I would rather the advertisers backed off and left me to it. I guess living away for some time having not returned in a few years, it really does feel like it’s shoved right down everyone’s throats seemingly more now than ever. I suppose I’d be deluding myself in thinking that it hasn’t been the same way for years and years. Modern day Christmas is all about consumerism, and you can’t blame corporations for cashing in on people’s greed and gluttony. I myself can’t say no to a buy one, get one free deal on mince pies.

My mum must have asked me ten times what I wanted for Christmas. I had a think. I

honestly couldn’t think of one thing that I needed, or wanted, other than a book I had already bought.

As an adult, I don’t think anyone should really want for anything. As long as you’ve got clothes on your back and food in your stomach, then what else do you need other than a bit of love and affection?

It’s saddening to see people’s frivolous attitudes and purchases, waiting in line overnight for a new iPhone, or a television half the size of a house. For what? Five-minutes worth of hollow joy? Give me a nice bottle of something, and someone pleasant to drink it with, and I’m happy.

All this junk we “want” is very disposable and unmemorable, so much so that we repeat this behaviour again, and again, and again for the same empty feeling.

Forget about all of these pointless items and go and tell your mate a joke, or if you need to spend your cash, take someone for dinner. For it will be so much more joyous.

CHANGE

C

hange is coming, and you can be part of it.

The Centre of Hand-on Actions and Networking for Growth and Environment (CHANGE) started life as the Vietnamese branch of 350.org. Part of a global grassroots climate change movement, they believe a safer climate and better future can be brought about through harnessing the power of ordinary people and holding our leaders accountable “to the realities of science and the principles of justice.”

In 2013 they were approached by WildAid, an NGO from the USA that works towards reducing demand for wildlife products. The American NGO wanted to enter Vietnam but had struggled to find a locally based partner that shared their vision and had a similar strategic direction. The new partnership brought much needed financial resources to CHANGE, and enabled WildAid to continue their work in Vietnam.

CHANGE’s goal is to bring about changes in behaviour at a community level. Nhi Thoi, CHANGE’s Program Development Manager explains in more detail. “Our strength lies in communications. We aim to address environmental problems through creative media activities and youth capacity building.

We also act as a bridge between business, community and government in the formulation of policies and appropriate solutions to pressing environmental problems.”

To help achieve this they have enlisted the support key opinion leaders in Vietnam, including 100 celebrities, who are becoming increasingly concerned about the environment and want to speak out about it. “Our strength lies in numbers. People want to raise their voice but with others their voice becomes louder”, Nhi explains to me, “we create the communities that help them achieve this.”

Their latest project, ‘iChange’, puts these

community building communication skills to good use. “We want to create a group of core members that will lead change in their local communities. This will be between 30 and 50 young people, passionate about the environment and making the changes they want to see happen. They will receive leadership training, learn how to build communities and get the most from them, and how to use technology to strengthen communications. We will then build our online community up to 5000 members.” Nhi tells me.

“We realise the restrictions on creating off-line action groups in Vietnam, but through creating communities online, we believe we can bring about real change at all levels of society.”

This ambitious project is the development of an initiative CHANGE lead in 2016. Called ‘Live Simple’, it challenged people to make manageable changes in their life over the period of a month, one change made per week. Weekly challenges included not buying any plastic, only using public transport, saving water or eating vegetarian. Participants were encouraged to take photos and share them on social media using hashtags.

“We believe that to bring about social change we must start with ourselves, that’s why we use an ‘I’ in our new project”, Nhi explains. “we just have one planet, one country to live in and we need to protect it.

You have to be the change you want to see happen. Nobody will do it for you. Nobody will save your children, you have to do it yourself.”

Saigon SOS’s party on 18 February at Cafe Restaurant is in support of CHANGE. www.changevn.org - www.facebook.com/ CHANGEvn. AsiaLIFE HCMC 73

D2’S FEBRUARY 1. Which ancestor of Noah is also the name of an oversized Champagne bottle that holds six litres?

2. Which Apollo 11 astronaut did not set foot on the moon?

3. FC Liverpool’s signature song ‘You’ll Never Walk Alone’ stems from which musical?

4. Which cocktail, named after a city, was invented by Raffles Hotel barkeeper Ngiam Tong Boon in 1915?

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5. Spats Columbo is the bad guy in which popular black and white film?

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6. Which James Bond theme song that starts with the words “Meeting you” was the only 007 theme song to reach number one in the US charts?

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8. According to legend, which man rode horses named Llamrei, Hengroen and Passelande?

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9. What is the Greek word for fire?

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10. What are the five boroughs in New York City?

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11. Which Dutch footballer earned the nickname ‘Llama’ after spitting on the West German striker Rudi Völler during a 1990 FIFA World Cup game?

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14. Which British fashion designer does one associate with the invention of the mini skirt and hot pants?

15. What kind of orange is used to flavour Earl Grey?

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12. Which anti-social television character does not like pickles?

13. In in which US state did the Battle of Little Big Horn take place?

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1. Methuselah 2. Michael Collins 3. Rogers and Hammerstein’s ‘Carousel’ 4.

Singapore Sling 5. Some Like It Hot 6. A View To A Kill (Duran Duran) 7. Holland 8. King ArthurI 9. Pyro 10. Staten Island, Queens, Manhattan, Brooklyn and The Bronx 11. Frank Rijkaard 12. Dr Gregory House 13. Montana 14. Mary Quant 15. Bergamot Orange

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