AsiaLIFE HCMC March 2016

AsiaLIFE Media Vol. 96

HER ES INFORMATION AND COMMUNICATIONS PUBLISHING HOUSE

CAMBODIA // THAILAND // VIETNAM

MARCH 2016

VOLUME 96

This month's cover Photography: Vinh Dao

for more news and events, features, restaurant reviews and video, visit:

26

www. A s i a L i f e M a g a z i n e .com For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 / +84 903 325 543 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com Director

Art Director

Jonny Edbrooke jonny@asialifemagazine.com Editorial Director

Deputy Editor

Thang Pham leo@asialifemagazine.com Photo Editor

Lorcan Lovett lorcan@asialifemagazine.com

Simon Stanley simon.stanley@asialifemagazine.com

Style Editor

Vinh Dao photoeditor@asialifemagazine.com

FRONT EVENTS ............................................................... 0 6 TOP 5: USEFUL STREETS.................................. 1 0 Q &A Bui Tr ieu Yen . . ....................................................... 1 4 BUSINESS VIEW.................................................. 1 6 DAY IN THE LIFE................................................ 1 8 TRENDING.......................................................... 1 9

C OV E R STO RY HEROES

Ruben Luong ruben@asialifemagazine.com

Production Manager Hoa Nguyen nguyenhoa@asialifehcmc.com Commercial Director Nguyen Kim Hanh kimhanh@asialifehcmc.com

Contributors Claudia Davaar Lambie Intern Mathilde Dujardin

FOOD & DRINK SHIRAZ Sipping on the best wine in town................... 4 0

THE SQUARE VIETNAMESE BISTRO Quality local eater y.. .......................................... 4 1

SCOTT AND JEREMY’S

Wester n and Asian fusion................................. 4 2

THAI CONG RESTAURANT Dining meets designing . . .................................... 4 3

Celebrating International Women’s Day..................... 2 0

STYLE & DESIGN

F E AT U R E S

THE DIGITAL COBBLER

SAIGON DRIFT

Vietnam’s Fast and Fur ious............................... 2 6

O-THALA

Paddle boarding in the Saigon River............... 2 8

COLUMNS

A new chapter for an old street..................... 3 0

IMBIBE ............................................................................. 5 6

Welcoming LGBT visitor s................................. 3 2

FITNESS .......................................................................... 6 0

TREADING WATER

TURNING THE PAGE

THE RISE OF GAY TOURISM HEALTH & WELLNESS

Cupping ther apy.. ................................................ 3 4

T R AV E L TURNING CORNERS

Penang’s street ar t scene.................................. 3 6

THE SMALLEST DETAILS

A night in the Hotel des Ar ts.......................... 3 8 4 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Finding the perfect fit........................................ 4 4 Scandinavian gar ments. . ..................................... 4 6

LOCAL EATS ............................................................... 5 8 EDUCATION HUB .................................................... 6 4 PERSONAL FINANCE ............................................. 6 7 PEOPLE MATTER ....................................................... 6 8 FASHION FIELD NOTES ........................................ 7 0 SUB-TOPICAL HEAT ................................................ 7 6 NGO FOCUS ............................................................... 7 7

EVENTS 2 MAR 5pm

English Practice Boardgames Club @Cafe LAB Entry: Free

Spring Run @Vietnam Golf & Country Club Entry: Registration

An evening of boardgames.

The Vietnam Golf & Country Club and the Marguerite Duras School organise two races: 5km and 10km.

fablabsaigon.org

springrace2016.blogspot. com

3 MAR 6pm - 8pm

6 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Sundowners @Sofitel Entry: VND 100,000 (free for members) The Australian Chamber of Commerce Vietnam organise an aperitif with small dishes and happy hour drink prices. auschamvn.org

6 MAR 6am - 10am

4 - 26 MAR 7.30pm - late

Tho Cam II @Vin Gallery Entry: Free A collection of Doan Xuan Tang’s paintings about the people of Vietnam’s mountainous regions. vingallery.com

Do you want your children to realise their full potential?

The ABCIS offers an outstanding teaching and learning environment to help your child rise to the challenge of an ever-changing global community.

www.theabcis.com

EVENTS 8 MAR 9pm - 2am

Dance Battle Party @Cargo Entry: VND 30,000 Battle between 16 breakdancers to elect the four best. After the show, the night goes on with DJs playing until late. fb.com/saigondubstationofficial

12 MAR 4pm - 10pm

New Zealand Wine & Food Festival @RMIT University Entry: Registration Indulge in an evening of Kiwi food, drink and hospitality to raise funds for the Ba Chieu Girls Shelter and KOTO. facebook.com/ wineandfoodnewzealandhcmc

Vietnam Victory Challenge @Da Lat Entry: Registration Three-day mountain bike race through the Da Lat countryside. vietnamvictorychallenge. com

11 - 13 MAR All day

LUCA Wine Tasting Event @El Gaucho Entry: Free Enjoy complimentary tastings of LUCA’s range of Argentinian wines (minimum food spend of VND 1.5million required per person). elgaucho.asia

16 MAR

6.30pm - 9pm

8 AsiaLIFE HCMC

19 MAR 7pm - 11pm

Roaring 1920s @InterContinental Asiana Saigon Entry: VND 2.5million To celebrate its 20th birthday, BBGV invites you to a 1920s-themed ball. Show off your best Charleston moves to be in for a chance to win flight and accommodation vouchers.

27 MAR All day

Easter Sunday Egg Hunt @Mekong Merchant Entry: Free Fun family day at Mekong Merchant with face and egg painting, an egg hunt and some Easter specials on the menu. mekongmerchant.com

bbgv.org

20 MAR 10am - 5pm

Canada Education and Immigration Fair 2016 @Pullman Saigon Centre Entry: Registration Introducing parents and students in Vietnam to the Canadian education system, schools, programs, and recent immigration information.

Sundaze @Hotel Equatorial Entry: VND 100,000

woorifair.com

facebook.com/sundaze. asia/

Saigon’s newest Vegasstyle pool party is here!

27 MAR 12am - 8pm

9 AsiaLIFE HCMC

TOP5

USEFUL

STREET S The AsiaLIFE team picks out their favourite, and most handy, Saigon shopping streets.

Photos by Vinh Dao.

10 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Based on the theory that success breeds success, businesses and shops of similar specialities can be found clustered together all over Vietnam’s cities. From wedding street to antique street, Saigon is famous for them.

While retail experts may argue against such strategies, it’s certainly an advantage for the consumer to have the full range of options all in one place. Here are some of our regular go-to spots:

1 Shoe Street Luu Van Lang, District 1 While the authenticity of the famous brands along this short stretch of tarmac between Ben Thanh Market and Nguyen Trung Truc Street is for you to decide, the quality cannot be sniffed at. Many people swear by them. If a VND 800,000 pair of spunky new ‘Nikes’ lasts just a single wet season, can you really complain? Whether you’re after office shoes (mens or ladies), a sexy, dishwasher-safe pair of “Crocs”, or some squeaky clean sneakers to hit the streets in, Luu Van Lang is worth a visit before you shell out a few million in a department store. Don’t miss number 51, a shop which appears tiny at first yet opens out into a sprawling warren of footwear. With fixed (and very reasonable) prices, and a wide range of brands (although choices are often limited for anyone over a US size 10), it’s a great place to start.

2 Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong, District 3 If you’re looking for a new hobby then how about taking care of tropical fish? You’re in the right place for it.

Saigon has a cheap abundance of marine life and you can do better than buying those ill-fated fish trapped in small plastic bags on the side of the road.

At its junction with Vo Thi Sau, Nguyen Thong has a line of aquariums touting exotic creatures as well as tanks of all shapes and sizes, decorations, feed, and everything else you might expect.

Visit Mr Dang at 44/019 (opposite the school) who has good English and an interesting freshwater shop where you can get anything from an algae eater (VND 20,000) to a Malaysianimported high back arowana (VND 6 million upwards). It’s worth visiting the street just to enjoy its sheer, colourful variety.

3 Motorbike Repair Street Tran Quang Khai, District 1 (between Hai Ba Trung and Tran Khac Chan / Nguyen Huu Cau) Situated behind Tan Dinh Market, this section of Tran Quang Khai Street attracts a twice-daily parade of sweaty-faced commuters as they limp their dead machines towards its many repair shops. From Hai Ba Trung, if you reach the large Lotteria crossroads, you’ve gone too far.

Now turn around and head to number 151, ‘Hau’, a popular spot with locals and expats for regular maintenance and emergency repairs.

Take a seat, grab a coffee and watch as the efficient mechanics get to work. Written quotes and invoices are guaranteed and in many cases, a choice of new or used parts will be offered. Elsewhere along the road, spare parts outlets are plentiful if your sweet ride is in need of some pimping. Chrome trims, flame decals, LED under-lighting, a pair of wing mirrors, why not?

12 AsiaLIFE HCMC

4 Imported Goods Street

5 Electronics Street Nguyen Kim, District 10

Ham Nghi / Ton That Dam, District 1 Just a few blocks up on Ham Nghi Street sits two shops adjacent to one another.

Recognisable by the bright neon signs inviting customers in, both shops are jam packed with delights from home as shop assistants perpetually stock the shelves.

Colloquially named the ‘expat shops’, they save the day when you’re feeling a bit homesick or just want to indulge in some of your favourite branded treats.

From a good old packet of digestive biscuits to that dollop of Marmite you secretly love, you can find an array of Western and Indian produce here. The imported products are also very reasonably priced in comparison to other shops around the city. Despite the narrow aisles, the shops impressively squeeze in both fresh and frozen items, with bakery equipment sections upstairs. A visit here will definitely help to ease any cravings.

It’s likely you’ll be able to hear this street before you see it, as potential customers test sound speakers on the pavements.

Always check the quality of amps and any other electronic goods you buy here, but what makes the area irresistible is the cut-price tech, including iPhones and laptops.

Most of the costs are driven down thanks to the ingenuity of local technicians who can transform trashed computers into televisions among other tricks.

Visit Nhat Tao Market down Vinh Vien Street, just off Nguyen Kim, for a concentrated selection of electronics and repair shops.

Based in a building that looks half apartment block, half hospital, the market offers dirt-cheap widescreen TVs and much older sets from around VND 250,000 upwards.

QA &

Bui Trieu Yen, Vietnam Idol Season 3’s vocal coach and director of Music at Soul Music and Performing Arts Academy (SMPAA), talks to Lorcan Lovett about her passion to transform the way music is taught to children in Vietnam. Photo by Vinh Dao.

BUI TRIEU YEN 14 AsiaLIFE HCMC

How did you come to join Soul Music and Performing Arts Academy?

I got to know Thanh Bui, SMPAA principal, from Vietnam Idol Season 3 where he was the mentor for the International Music Round and I was the vocal coach for the show. Our mutual passion for music and the performing arts industry of Vietnam has kindled in me the motivation and enthusiasm to collaborate with him on his projects. March 2012 was really the start of my journey with SMPAA.

What is your current goal?

My top concern at the moment is bringing music education to more Vietnamese children. Music has the power to awaken education. I believe in the importance of music education to the development of children. The lifelong impact of musical values, skills and attitudes will foster their holistic development, and nurture their confidence, connectivity and communication skills. However, understanding the current situation of music education in Vietnamese schools, I am determined to dedicate my working life to improve it. My wish is that every Vietnamese child can engage with music and learn the fundamental music skills from kindergarten.

What kind of challenges have you faced in breaking into the music industry?

When I studied at The Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City, the music industry in Vietnam didn’t have a clear orientation. Due to the lack of a standard curriculum framework, I had to study classical music, although my passion was in pop music. Because of that, it became more challenging. I had to work harder to overcome all obstacles to fulfill the subject requirements. Nevertheless, in retrospect, now I feel extremely grateful for the experiences and knowledge acquired at school.

Why do you believe music plays such an important role in a child’s education?

There’s more to life and people than academic skills. Academic skills are just a relatively small component of the whole system of traits that make up a well-rounded person, including

valuable qualities, namely empathy, emotional intelligence, imagination, kindness and curiosity. That is where musical skills come in. I am certain that music helps stimulate children’s fundamental abilities, including cognitive, emotional intelligence and social skills, as well as their selfawareness and self-esteem.

How much is music incorporated into the Vietnamese education system?

And does this need to change?

Being born and growing up in the 1970s, I have witnessed all the changes and development of the Vietnam music education industry until today. However, unfortunately, most students are still missing out on the many benefits of music education.

The music curriculum in Vietnamese schools is still underrated and outof-date. Even Vietnamese parents

“We want to inspire and empower our students, especially female students, to dream bigger.” are not aware of the importance of music and arts education for their children’s development. They provide little to no enrichment to their children aside from the core academics. Therefore, although a lot of Vietnamese children are good at scientific and mathematical subjects, many lack emotional expression, self-confidence and other soft skills.

If there is more structured investment in the state’s music education system, I believe children will benefit more in developing their cognition and the whole system of traits.

It’s easy to name plenty of famous female musicians, but how empowered do you think women are in the music industry?

I think, when it comes to the record world, it’s still largely dominated by men. Recent international surveys have shown that, while there are plenty of female artists and musicians, the majority of people working in the industry are still males.

This doesn’t mean that women are not empowered in the music industry nowadays. There have been many collaborations between female artists and the feminist movement to promote female empowerment. The role of women in the music industry has become increasingly important as women from all backgrounds who play various genres continue to flourish in this business. They even inspire their male colleagues. More female musicians and artists are accepted, recognized and loved, both by fans and the critics, for the merit of their works alone. These female artists have overcome the challenges and the double standards faced by women in the industry to succeed and inspire other women.

I would love to see the future music industry reflect gender equality better, and that female artists and musicians are empowered more. This will set better examples to the world. Imagine how different the musical landscape will be.

How do you think music can be used to promote gender equality in Vietnam?

Vietnam has achieved certain progress towards gender equality and women empowerment. The promotion of female empowerment and gender equality through the music industry and its media has become essential for contemporary feminism. But that’s not enough. We need to move faster.

What we want to do here at SMPAA is not just build artists, but educate children through music so they can build their fundamental values. If a boy listens to fine music and is able to play it himself, he will become disciplined, empathetic, open-minded and emotionally connected. If a girl is put in the same environment, she will develop sensitivity, endurance, confidence, and self-esteem. Also, their emotional intelligence will surely increase. These beautiful traits in turn help build better citizens, and reduce the rate of violence or abuse on girls and women. Through music education, we want to inspire and empower our students, especially female students, to dream bigger.

I strongly believe music education can help to advance the awareness, equality, and opportunities for women in the society.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 15

Rounding up the latest business and economic news for Vietnam

Rising Dragon takes flight THE unfaltering rise of one of the world’s most fertile economies has its sights set on a near 7 percent growth this year.

With a soaring domestic demand and rising foreign direct investment, Vietnam is countering the hiccups of other emerging economies such as Brazil and China.

The Communist party’s draft socioeconomic plan for 2016 to 2020 shows the nation will target as much as seven percent average annual expansion.

The five-year plan shows the government aiming to lift gross domestic product per capita from US$3,200 to $3,500 by 2020 compared with the International Monetary Fund’s estimate of about $2,171 in 2015.

Inflation will be kept below 5 percent and the budget deficit capped at 4 percent of GDP. “Vietnam is positioned to have another stellar year in 2016,” economists at Australia & New Zealand Banking Group Ltd. led

by Eugenia Victorino, said in a report last month.

“Nonetheless, the long-term outlook will depend on the outcome of the political changes expected over the next 12 months.”

The central bank’s recent efforts to make the exchange rate more flexible will also strengthen macro-economic stability and help ease pressure on reserves, she said.

Bloomberg’s survey of economists also revealed that Vietnam is forecasted to be the second fastest growing economy this year, just behind India.

The survey forecasts the Southeast Asian country’s economy to expand to 6.7 percent this year, the same pace as in 2015.

“In a very subdued global environment, domestic demand is king,” Trinh Nguyen, a Hong-Kong based senior economist for emerging Asia at Natixis SA told Bloomberg.

“People in Vietnam are becoming more optimistic about the future. In both the regional and global landscapes, it’s set to outperform.”

Meanwhile, private consumption rose 9.3 percent last year, according to government data. Disbursed foreign direct investment surged 17.4 percent to a record-high of $14.5 billion last year from 2014, official data showed.

Cheaper cars moving closer to Vietnam MOST people are either saving up or tensing up at the idea of perpetual gridlock as cheaper cars chug closer towards the masses in Vietnam.

Automobile sales are expected to continue to increase this year, albeit at a lower rate of 2015’s record growth of 55 percent, reports news website VnMedia after obtaining information from local businesses.

But the biggest boom is unlikely to happen until 2018 when automobiles and their parts will be imported from the ASEAN tax-free.

Bui Kim Pha, deputy CEO of Truong Hai Auto Corporation, told the news website that the auto market is stabilising, so its growth will not be as high as last year when it saw a sixyear high rise in sales to nearly 245,000 units.

16 AsiaLIFE HCMC

The expected boom will have to wait, he says, because a hike in luxury tax has hampered the impact of the ASEAN tax cuts.

Under a new rule that took effect on 1 January, luxury tax is calculated on an imported car’s retail price; previously it was calculated on their cost, insurance and freight (CIF) price before the addition of duties and markups.

Thanh Nien news reported that the revision has forced auto importers to increase their prices by two to 13 percent.

Still, early this year, Vietnamese government reduced duties on automobiles imported from neighbouring countries to 40 percent from 50 percent last year, as cited by the news agency.

Executives of major producers and importers such as Ford Vietnam, GM Vietnam and Truong Hai Auto Corporation expect the industry’s sales will grow around 30 percent, saying Vietnam’s economy will continue to grow strong, boosting the local demand.

Yoshihisa Maruta, chairman of Vietnam Automobile Manufacturers’ Association, on the other hand, said its members expected a year-on-year rise of 10 percent.

Cheaper tablets shrink market TOUCH screen gadgets have been flying off the shelves more than ever yet the value of the market is decreasing, according to a recent survey.

Media tablets are a common sight in Vietnam, with a year-on-year increase in demand for the tech reported for the fourth time in 2015, but research company GfK said the total revenue generated last year was lower than 2014.

Since first hitting Vietnamese shelves in 2011, tablet devices have become a steady hit, with nearly 1.5 million units sold last year. This represents a 17 percent growth or over 201,000 units more in sales when compared to 2014.

However, last year also marked the first time the media tablet in Vietnam shrank in total market value. The market generated US$324.5 million in sales in 2015, 13 percent lower than

the previous year.

“Media tablets are still very much in demand, although its growth momentum has slowed down considerably compared to the early years when it was first introduced,” said Van Tran Khoa, managing director for GfK in Vietnam.

“The increasingly saturated market has reduced the growth rate significantly from exponential triple-digit range in the past three years to the still healthy double-digit level in 2015.”

GfK point of sales tracking reveals a consistent downward price trend of media tablets over the years—from the much higher $675 average price during the initial period when tablets were first introduced locally, to the current level of around $239. As the demand rises, the price has steadily decreased.

NEWS IN BRIEF MASS FISH DEATH Mekong Delta farmers were counting their losses after heavy pollution or poisoning caused the death of VND 25 billion (US$1.12 million) worth of fish just ahead of the Lunar New Year holiday.

Locals discovered dead fish weighing up to 630 tons all together in farming cages across a 9km stretch of the river, and, on further investigation, an unusually high level of nitrate and phosphate was found in the water, pointing to humans’ chemical waste.

BIG C SALE French mass retailer Casino Group has denied claims it has completed the sale of Big C Vietnam to a new owner, adding that the group is still looking for a buyer for its business.

The company plans to reduce its debts by selling assets in Vietnam as well as Thailand. There are now 32 Big C outlets across Vietnam, with eight in Ho Chi Minh City.

USA VISIT

City calls out for workers HO CHI MINH CITY is being touted as something of a job seekers’ paradise, as thousands of positions need filling after the Tet Lunar New Year break.

The city will need 19,000 new employees for 1,371 businesses, according to the Center of Forecasting Manpower Needs and Labor Market Information (FALMI).

The labour center said the demand comes from different sectors, from sales and marketing, hospitality, design, communications, mechanics and electronics engineering, food processing, garment and

leather shoes, to house helping, security and delivery services.

A third of the vacancies are for part-time and temporary jobs, said Tran Anh Tuan, deputy director of FALMI, although the demand is lower than after the holiday last year as businesses have improved their policies to retain existing workers.

Tran said the city is expected to have around 65,000 job vacancies in the first quarter this year, including 20 percent with university graduate requirements.

Last August, FALMI announced that the city would need an additional 23,000 fulltime and 5,000 part-time work force. These employment opportunities were primarily for unskilled labour and graduates/postgraduates, accounting for 28 percent and 27 percent of the total vacancies respectively.

The demand for technicians follows closely at 25 percent.

When considering the insatiable appetite for labour over the past decade, it seems the city shows no signs of slowing down.

Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung led the Vietnamese delegation to attend the ASEAN-US Summit in California on 16 February.

The tour encouraged co-operation between Vietnam and the US in such fields as security-defence, sciencetechnology, investment, and deployment of free trade agreements, including the Trans-Pacific Partnership.

GO BANANAS

A farmer who has ploughed US$1.4 million into a clean way of producing bananas aims to bring the Vietnamese fruit to the world.

With more than 100 hectares in Long An and Tay Ninh provinces, Vo Quan Huy, 61, has stepped into the global market by meeting a high set of requirements for clean production. He has so far exported 500 tons of bananas to Singapore, India and China.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 17

British Consul General and UK Trade and Investment Director in Ho Chi Minh City

Douglas Barnes

Veteran civil servant Douglas Barnes is fresh from a meeting with HSBC representatives, aimed at boosting business between the UK and Vietnam, as he begins to talk about his typical working day at the British Consulate.

It starts like many other people’s: he discusses the day’s plans with his wife over breakfast, talks about current political affairs stirring in his home country, and then reaches the office by 9am unless an early meeting takes priority.

The 58-year-old British Consul General in Ho Chi Minh City has been in the role for four years, during which time he’s also been the area’s UK Trade and Investment director, but that all comes to a close this month as he takes up the post of trade commissioner in Yangon, Myanmar.

After greeting his staff and checking his emails, Barnes regularly has a phone conversation with the Hanoi-based UK Ambassador, and then consults his diary with his personal assistant at around 10am.

The duality of Barnes’ job means he’s either touching base with the British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) before amassing support for UK companies in Vietnam, or addressing workshops, conferences and the HCM City People’s Committee in his diplomatic duties. Often the two roles complement each other.

“It’s important, in order to be successful for British companies as well as for Britain in general here, to have a very good relationship with the People’s Committee,” he says, “and so I have developed a relationship where I engage with them quite frequently on issues that are of concern with them as well as issues which we’re trying to progress.”

Barnes is also dean of the consulate core: the main channel of communication between his colleagues and the People’s Committee. His team, split between Hanoi and HCMC, deals with issues such as lost UK passports, while he plays a direct part in more high profile matters.

These are notable times for UK-Vietnam relations, which were set up in 1973, two years before Vietnam’s reunification. The two countries

18 AsiaLIFE HCMC

entered into a Strategic Partnership Agreement in 2010, which saw bilateral trade increase to US$4billion within two years.

Then in July 2015, David Cameron became the first serving British Prime Minister to visit Vietnam.

“We played a huge role,” says Barnes, who worked with UK governmental departments to ensure Cameron’s itinerary was fit for purpose.

“When he arrived from Hanoi I actually met him at the airport,” adds Barnes. “We travelled in together and had a chat. It was him who insisted he wanted to come to HCMC. “It obviously makes a lot of sense as it’s the commercial capital of Vietnam. He first came here as a student back in 1994 and so he was quite excited, wanting to see what the changes were. He was blown away by all of it.”

With more than 30 years of experience in the public sector, Barnes knows that clocking off times can differ everyday, especially now his current position can include evening dinners, cross-country ceremonies and the odd bout of prominent media inquiries.

“There is a core work day for staff, but for me I’m on duty at all times and any time as long as I’m around,” he says.

And another recent deal – the EUVietnam Free Trade Agreement – will drive his team across the country, scouring for promising investment opportunities and relaying the information back to UK companies.

“It feels quite fulfilling seeing some of the successes in terms of businesses performing better or winning a huge contract as a result of something that my team has done,” he says.

Outside the world of business, Barnes leads a team that helps UK nationals, mainly those who have been victims of petty theft and are in need of emergency travel documents.

Barnes advises travellers to read the foreign office advice… “particularly now when petty crime seems to be on the increase, because it can leave someone quite distraught when you’ve just arrived and had your bag stolen.”

He also highlights the dangers of riding a motorbike in Vietnam, but is quick to add, “On the very positive side it’s a great place to live, to visit, to work.

“Just come here and have a good time.

Vietnamese people are very warm, friendly and hospitable.”

TRENDING

A month’s hot topics from Vietnam and beyond

Obama Oi! That’s right, the big O is coming, get ready. Time to get your stars and stripes tuxedo dry-cleaned and prepare to welcome the arrival of the 44th US President, Barack Obama.

Announced by the White House in February following a meeting with Vietnamese Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung in California, Air Force One is expected to touch down in Hanoi in May 2016.

Although the Commander in Chief’s itinerary is yet to be confirmed, as the country’s economic powerhouse, a stopover in HCMC cannot be ruled out.

Obama will be the third US president in a row to travel to the country, following Bill Clinton’s historic visit in 2000 and George W. Bush’s four-day stay in 2006.

Kong Arrives The film crew and stars of the next King Kong movie arrived in Vietnam last month to shoot on-location in the country. Kong: Skull Island is expected to revolve around the origins of the legendary beast, serving as a prequel set in the same universe as 2014’s Godzilla revamp. Starring the likes of Samuel L Jackson and John Goodman, filming has already taken place in Hawaii and Australia. Director Jordan Vogt-Roberts, his cast and 120-member crew are scheduled to spend five weeks in the north of the country, shooting in locations such as Quang Ninh, Quang Binh and Ninh Binh provinces. The movie is due for release in 2017.

Brass Monkeys After a sudden cold snap saw Hanoi residents taking to their motorbikes wrapped in duvets, and many parts of northern Vietnam blanketed in the first snowfall in recorded history, Ho Chi Minh City enjoyed its coldest Tet holiday in 17 years according to Thanh Nien News. Temperatures as low as 14.1 degrees celsius were recorded in the HCMC region on New Year’s Day as a continuing cold front from Siberia brought below average temperatures to the entire region. In Bangkok, where daytime temperatures, usually sit at around 30 degrees at this time of year, the mercury was struggling to hit 20, as fog, mist and chilly breezes enveloped much of Southeast Asia.

While the cold weather was a welcome excuse for many to wrap up in coats, trousers and woolies, farmers in northern Vietnam have blamed the freezing weather on the deaths of 8,900 livestock, according to Vietnam News.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 19

20 AsiaLIFE HCMC

HER ES

From the country’s earliest beginnings to today, through war and peace and everything in between, Vietnam’s women have proven that you don’t need to wear a cape to be a superhero. By Claudia Davaar Lambie and Simon Stanley.

Photos by Vinh Dao. AsiaLIFE HCMC 21

O

n the 8th of March 2016, International Women’s Day will be celebrated around the globe. Vietnamese women will often receive flowers, cards and gifts from their partners, husbands and male colleagues. It’s a chance to recognise women for their achievements big and small.

In recent years, Vietnam’s women have benefited from various transformative changes in the economic, political and societal spheres. The traditional attitudes which once prevailed are gradually becoming unstuck, bringing about greater choice and freedom for girls and women all over the country.

As Jessica Hilston, 28, founder of the Women of Saigon networking group says, “Women are now the movers and shakers of Vietnam.”

At the highest level, the ongoing introduction of new legislation is beginning to equalise the balance between the genders. The 2004 Land Law allowed for a wife’s name to be added alongside her husband’s on the Land Use Certificates necessary for home ownership. This milestone gave women, particularly those in rural communities, economic empowerment and a chance at a more equal stake in their financial affairs. 2006’s Gender Equality Law, hailed by the UN as providing a real window for advancement, ensures that equal opportunities are created and that women are protected from discrimination.

Historically, women have always played a pivotal role in the development of Vietnam.

It is believed that the country was nurtured from matriarchal beginnings. In school history lessons, homage is paid to its many female heroes such as the ferocious Trung Sisters who led great armies against the invading Chinese, and the anti-colonial revolutionaries of the early 20th century who

22 AsiaLIFE HCMC

fought not only against French imperialism, but against the Eurocentric assumption that women should be confined to domesticity.

As the old adage goes, ‘giac den nha dan ba cung danh’ - ‘when the enemy is at the gate, the woman goes out fighting.’

We spoke to four women who, just like their ancestors before them, heroically overcome the trials and tribulations of being a woman in Vietnam.

Sharing The Burden

Meeting Nguyen Mai Thao, the energetic 33-year-old head of production at the Ho Chi Minh City offices of J. Walter Thompson, a global advertising agency headquartered in New York City, you might not guess that she was mum to two young boys - one almost two, the other three-and-ahalf. With erratic hours and long days, flitting between clients, film production companies, directors and creative teams, how does she find time to fulfill both roles? “I have a very good mother-in-law,” she says. “She takes care of the kids for me while I’m not at home. Also, when I travel on business trips for example, I try to bring them with me.”

She admits that juggling a family and a career is not without its sacrifices. “I miss a lot of things.

For example, I cannot go to my kids’ ceremonies at school. I feel guilty (but) I’m trying to get more staff to support me so I have more time for (them).”

Having been raised in a very open-minded family where, without the pressure to marry and settle down, she was able to follow her passion for travel, creativity and production. “I have very lovely and understanding parents. They left me to choose whatever career I liked.”

After carving a path through the male dominated worlds of IT and multimedia, Mai Thao has

now arrived in an industry where gender is not an issue. “(At JWT) we have a lot of boys and girls, gay, lesbian… everyone lives happily.

We don’t look down on anyone.”

Traditional gender roles are also absent at home; Mai Thao and her husband enjoy an equal partnership.

“We both play mum and daddy,” she adds. “My husband is very good at cleaning, much better than me. But I am better at cooking!”

Becoming Superwoman

Mum of one, Trudy Ta, recently started her own online fashion business. She realised that there was a need to design clothes for fuller-sized women and xlux.vn was born. “I want ‘normal’ women to feel self-confident in what they wear,” she says.

Ta, now 30, won a scholarship when she was 18 to study Marketing at Nanyang University in Singapore. Her parents fully encouraged her to study, sharing

Nguyen Mai Thao, 33

her belief that having a career was important.

Ta moved back to Ho Chi Minh City and married when she was 27. Her marriage was a happy one, until her daughter was born. She clashed with her husband over who should do most of the housework and who should spend more time looking after their child.

“He wanted me to take on the role of the housewife 100 percent; there was no sharing of any of the responsibilities,” she says.

Ta remembers how her husband suddenly assumed the “captain” role of the family and how his expectations of Ta changed.

During this time, Ta worked long hours for an e-commerce start-up.

She says her parents began to echo her husband’s views, advising her to stop working and dedicate her time to the family. The transition into motherhood seemed a natural one for everyone but Ta. Sadly Ta’s three-year marriage

“Girls can also wear Superwoman helmets.”

Trudy Ta, 30 would come back home to wash my son and do all of the housework as well. The next day I would do the cooking before going out to work again.

“In my mind, housework and taking care of children is the responsibility of a woman. It’s part of her duty. If my husband helped me, which he sometimes did, though not usually, I was grateful.

If not, then that was fine.”

With her son now approaching 30, Le accepts that times have changed, although she remains firm over certain matters. “When my son gets married he will have to help his wife,” she says. “I think in modern families the husband and wife should share everything; finances, responsibilities and housework, but I don’t accept that the husband should stay at home and look after the children while the wife goes out to work. He has to play the man’s role. If I had a daughter, I would encourage ended in divorce. Now, she juggles being a single mum with the launch of her new business venture. She takes her now three-year-old daughter to kindergarten then works non-stop until it’s time to pick her up again. “I have to wear two different hats and be sure that I don’t focus on work when I’m looking after (my daughter).”

Her ex-husband sees them once a week. “For me, it’s important that (she) gets to see her mum and dad together, even if it’s only for a short while.”

Ta wants her daughter to grow up with an open mind; not caving to social pressures and ascribing to strict gender roles. “One day after nursery, my daughter told me that boys wear blue Superman helmets and girls wear pink princess ones…I explained (to her) that girls can also wear Superwoman helmets.”

her to be independent, but to still keep the traditional character of a Vietnamese woman.”

Confidence

Having tied the knot at 31, many considered Le Anh Tho’s marriage to have come slightly later than normal. “I told my mum I’d rather be myself,” says the now 38-yearold, “that I’d rather be alone until I found the right person to get married with, rather than please everyone else by getting married at 26 or 27.”

Anh Tho is currently the assistant director and head of Arts and Creative Industries at the British Council in Ho Chi Minh City, and has two girls aged three and six.

“My parents were very open,” she says. “They just guided me on what I should do and what I shouldn’t do, but they never had a plan for me.” She explains that for many Vietnamese women, this is not always the case. “Especially for

Sacrifice

52-year-old Tu Le talks modestly about her life as a working mother of one. “My mother had 12 children,” she says. “She had to work so much harder than me. I have been lucky.”

Born in the rural province of Long An into a family of rice planters, Le eventually moved to Saigon to get married. When her son was born she was forced to give up her job to care for him.

“Only my husband could go to work so we were quite poor,” she explains. “It was a hard time.”

When she eventually found full-time work in a clothes factory to pay for childcare, expectations at home didn’t change. “I had to do two jobs: working at the factory and being a housewife and mother.

If I finished work late at night, I

Tu Le, 52

AsiaLIFE HCMC 23

“When you are confident with what you are doing, why should you care if you are a girl or a boy?”

Le Anh Tho, 38 families not in big cities. People still put a lot of pressure on their girls.”

Even in Vietnam’s rapidly expanding cosmopolitan culture, the traditional stereotypical expectations of a woman’s role can still affect her choices in life.

“Vietnamese women should be more confident about what they can contribute to society,” says Anh Tho. “They shouldn’t think that because they are a woman that should limit them in some areas.”

It’s an ethos she has lived by from day one. “I am quite strong. I never think that because I am a woman that I couldn’t do this or that,” she says. “I never had that in mind. I think when you are confident with what you are doing, why should you care if you are a girl or a boy?”

Anh Tho also praises the support of her husband. “I’m a lucky woman. (He) also does not pressure me as a woman by saying ‘you should be this’, ’you should do

that’ or ‘you should stay home’. We support each other. He cooks better than me and I clean better than him.

So I say, ‘okay you cook and I’ll clean all the mess’.”

Come Out Fighting

From its matriarchal foundation to the present day, Vietnam’s history is dotted with female heroes in one form or another. Positive changes have benefited women throughout the decades and continue to do so. In January 2016, the Communist Party’s newly elected central committee voted in 20 female members, including Nguyen Thi Kim Ngan, who has climbed the ranks to reach one of the top four postings in government. The fighting spirit of Vietnam’s women is admirable; whether they’re leading armies, juggling to balance work and raise children, or simply keeping their homes in order. As Trudy Ta reflects, “Vietnamese women have the genes to be very resolute in any kind of battle they face.”

VIETNAM’S HISTORIC HEROINES Au Co

The mythological fairy mother who laid 100 eggs containing the children of Sung Lam, the dragon lord. They would become the ancestors of the Vietnamese civilisation.

The Trung Sisters (circa 40CE)

These legendary warriors amassed an army of 80,000 to fight the first waves of invading Chinese.

Lady Trieu (225 - 248CE)

Sometimes referred to as the ‘Vietnamese Joan of Arc’. Another female leader who fought against the Chinese and their patriarchal ideals.

24 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Bao Luong (1909 - 1976)

Poet and anti-colonial revolutionary. Fought for the emancipation of women under European rule and the liberation of Vietnam.

Vo Thi Sau (1933 - 1952)

Schoolgirl guerrilla and national martyr. Executed for leading deadly attacks against the French authorities.

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai (1910 - 1941)

Revolutionary and co-founder of the organisation which became the Communist Party of Vietnam. Jailed by the French colonial government and executed by firing squad.

Inspiring Greatness The Women of Saigon group was formed in 2015 by two Viet Kieu women, Jessica Hilston, 28, and Camilla Blom, 25. The group aims to connect ladies from all over Saigon, from budding entrepreneurs to those who simply want to meet other likeminded women. Its members share some words of wisdom about gender equality:

“I shortened a holiday with my family after being ambushed by the question ‘when are you getting married?’ It is expected by my parents that I will get married and take care of them as they age. I am sure about the latter rather than the former.”

Phuong Vu, 24, entrepreneur

“Women need to consider the income of a man when deciding whether to marry him or not, besides whether they love him or not.”

Nguyen Minh Huong, 30, lecturer

“I really like a quote posted on Women of Saigon’s Facebook page: ‘There will no longer be women leaders in the future. There will be only leaders.’ Women and men are different physically, and psychologically, of course. However, when it comes to work, success and leadership, not much defines the gap between genders.”

Le Hoang Kim Anh, 23, university graduate

“I remember a male colleague who told me that I don’t have to work hard because sooner or later, when I get married, I will have to stay home, take care of the kids and depend on my husband, which I found offensive.”

An Phan, 29, campaign manager

“Live for yourself. Build your own happiness.”

Pham Huynh Huong, 21, business development manager

AsiaLIFE HCMC 25

SAIGON

DRIFT DRIFT D DRIFT DRIFT DRIFT

Lorcan Lovett buckles up for a drive with Vietnam’s ‘Drift King’ to learn about the trend for modified cars in the country.

Photos by Vinh Dao.

D

usk has obscured the Saigon River into a black, empty road as we pull away from a sparse patch of District 2’s dockland.

A day spent with Vietnam’s Fast and Furious gang is coming to an end, although, all in all, it’s been quite calm.

“Want to drift?” suggests Le Hoang, 32, and, just as I tilt my head toward the driver, Le slams his foot down. We’re thrust forward before the blow valve of the US $90,000 machine lets out a ‘pssst’ as he lifts 26 AsiaLIFE HCMC

off the accelerator and swings the steering wheel.

The tail of the bronzed Hyundai Genesis Coupe whips around in an exhilarating and nauseating few seconds; a fervent reminder of my Welsh adolescence, when doing ‘doughnuts’ in a Citroen Saxo around any McDonalds’ car park gave you a certain ‘edge’.

Though I’m happy to say this isn’t some untrained teen trying to score peer points.

It’s Vietnam’s undisputed ‘Drift King’, aka

‘DK VN’, and he’s been a pivotal figure in bringing modified cars to the country.

With 11 years of drifting experience, Le leads a 15-strong team at his garage, D1VN, and lends his high performance cars to films, music videos, and the promotion of The Fast and The Furious movie series.

Shifting Gears

Modified cars are still a rarity in Vietnam, but back when Le was growing up, owning

a car at all was an exception.

“My passion began when I was young,” he says. “I loved cars but I lived in Vietnam.

Back 20 years ago, cars weren’t popular.”

Every day after school he’d pass a Toyota showroom and gawp at the models on offer then get back home to ride motorbikes.

“It is in my blood. I like any vehicles, not only cars,” he says. At the age of 17, Le left to study in New Zealand where cars were not only abundant but also affordable.

He remembers driving his first car, a Mitsubishi GTO, to the garage where he volunteered for free until the boss recognised his talents and offered him a job.

Learning fast, he swapped the GTO for a Nissan s15 – “a very popular drift car around the world,” he says, particularly in Japan where the gliding practice was invented.

“A guy told me ‘what the hell, you do not know how to drift? How can you have a drift car?’

“The guy was crazy because I did not know how to do it. From then on I did everything professionally and started to learn how to drift.”

the limelight at first, Le, as DK VN, now has his own personal fan page after some convincing from his team.

“Now it is a big community of people, especially compared with five years ago,” he says. “They learn from the internet and from people overseas how to modify cars.

“They know which cars they have to buy. Before, all anyone knew was Lexus or Toyota.” “…and The Fast and The Furious series means when they watch it, they want to be that cool,” adds Minh.

Since Fast 5, the team has been commissioned by the series to drive around Saigon for each premier (the latest procession featured seven cars for the

In 2005, Le ‘qualified’ at drifting on racetracks after joining a bunch of enthusiasts who came together and created a league.

He returned to Vietnam in 2008 and two years later launched his first workshop in Go Vap that initially only modified cars.

Being Vietnam’s only ‘drifter’, he taught four others the skill, and the five usually use private land in Binh Phuoc Province to go practise.

As cinemas and video games boosted interest in the flashy machines, demand rose for D1VN’s services to the point that Le was able to fund a bigger place in District 7.

DK VN and his “boys” moved in six months ago and now offer repairs and modifications. They’re busy building a second floor office and specialised room for spray painting.

Caged songbirds duet with the rush and roar of powerful engines outside a shimmering metallic garage in District 7.

Inside, the “boys” work on a BMW M5 belonging to a 20-something regular

customer and coffee shop owner.

They’re increasing the car’s horsepower, installing a new body kit and adding bigger wheels, air suspension and a carbon fibre interior among other alterations: the full works, costing $25,000.

“All my customers are young. They like cars too…some of them know about cars,” says Le. “Most people want to show off their money.”

“They treat their cars like wives,” chimes in Le’s cousin, 28-year-old Minh Truong.

“People say ‘I want it to be sexy, I want people to look at my car when I’m driving around’,” says Le, who refuses to modify a car if he thinks it looks bad.

It’s D1VN’s reputation on the line and that’s everything in this game.

D1VN has grown its customer base from 10 to about 30 per month. The business is a savvy self-promoter, with its own full-time media team who regularly post videos, interact with users, and create annual calendars of their customers’ cars that intend to flatter as well as retain clients.

The D1VN community has nearly 70,000 likes and, although reluctant to step into

seventh instalment).

Le has also helped organise a stunt show at Phu Tho Stadium in District 11 set for May. It’s an exciting time for the “boys” as 60-year-old Keiichi Tsuchiya – the original DK and The Fast and The Furious: Toyko Drift stunt coordinator – has agreed to take part.

Thai drifters who are friends of Le’s, and some homegrown talent, will join “the best in the world,” Le reverently hails, referring to the Japanese master.

We take a ride in Le’s Hyundai which has ‘Drift and Donate’ stickered to the windscreen in acknowledgment of D1VN’s charitable work.

Seated close to ground level, my vision

quickly takes in a limping old man, a girl riding a bicycle, a stream of motorbikes, and then our surge of speed settles as another car pulls out.

Stolen thrills come in short bursts on the congested streets of Saigon.

“We feel frustrated that we can’t go fast,” Le says. “Obviously you can not race on the street. There are a lot of people; it’s very dangerous. Vietnam right now has just one freeway, and that’s with a speed limit.”

As the drive continues, Le reveals his next goal: to start training as a pilot this year and eventually control the ultimate machine. For now, he’ll drift along happily as DK VN; Vietnam’s unofficial representative in the global competition for customised cars.

The Fast and The Frustrated

AsiaLIFE HCMC 27

Claudia Davaar Lambie boldly attempts paddle boarding down the Saigon River. Photos by Vinh Dao.

TREADING water 28 AsiaLIFE HCMC

“H

old your stomach in as if you’ve been punched,” my paddle boarder friend replied, after I probed her on the best way to stay balanced.

Stand-up paddle boarding (SUP) originated from Hawaii and has now made its way to Ho Chi Minh City thanks to Tommy Woo. Originally from California, Woo is an electronics engineer by trade. As a trained diver and surfer, the 36-year-old loves everything related to water sports. He began paddle boarding two years ago just for the fun of it.

Woo launched W.A.O. SUP Saigon in August 2015 after deciding it was time for the young (and older) citizens of HCMC to step away from the gadgets, iPhones and electronics and start living an active, healthy life. W.A.O. is an abbreviation for ‘We Are One’, which is associated with Woo’s previous survival training team.

Woo and four trainers are dedicated to coaching newcomers to stand-up paddle boarding. The water sport is a variation of surfing but without the waves. Instead, SUP allows you to glide along the calm water using a human-sized paddle and all the core strength you can muster.

Upon arrival at a District 7 section of the Saigon River, Woo gave us a brief training session on land. He skillfully demonstrated the paddle technique using the oar.

Perfecting this paddle method seemed pivotal when aiming to steer the board in the preferred direction. Woo also explained that balancing on the board (and not falling off) required your feet to always be centred.

Woo’s expertise helped calm any prepaddle nerves that we had.

Apprehensively, we walked down the embankment to the river. One by one, we climbed on board to revise the training

methods. Ensuring the Velcro ankle strap was securely tightened, I slowly stepped on and carefully hunkered down on my knees. Using the flat side of the paddle, I pulled parallel to the board in a downwards direction. The paddle had to be deeply submerged in the water for the board to move any real distance.

As Woo explains, setting up W.A.O. SUP in Saigon was easy. “The SUP boards with attachable fins are easily inflated, deflated and stored away,” he says. The boards are made from a PVC fabric which holds the board in shape. Woo said that they are of the best quality, purchased from the Netherlands, Germany, Korea and Hong Kong.

With the practise session over, it was time to paddle the waves without any assistance.

When I asked Woo for any last minute tips, he helpfully replied, “You have to get over your fear, that’s all!” Still squatted down on my knees, I wanted to try and perfect the paddle technique before attempting to stand up. Gliding along the river like a swan, I soon began to feel at ease.

I felt like a real pro, as long as I paddled in a straight line. When it came to turning the board to the left or right, it was a different story altogether. I had moments of spinning round in circles, the enveloping water lapping onto me. Woo shouted over with instructions on how best to navigate, which I eventually managed to do.

Despite the tangles of plastic bags and chunks of wood dotted around, bobbing on the river was quite relaxing. Tug boats waded across from time to time, carrying cargo and passengers from one district to another. An occasional current from a passing boat would naturally sway the board in a new direction. If surfing is for

adrenaline junkies, SUP is for chilled-out adventurers.

It was time to stand up. Slowly I perched onto my feet, knees still bent, and then positioned myself like a runner seconds before the starting pistol. Ensuring my feet never left the centre of the board, every muscle in my legs shook as I attempted to stand. Thankfully, Woo was on hand to assist. I was terrified I would fall into the river.

Gaining your balance is one thing, but holding onto a 6ft paddle and steering the board simultaneously becomes exhausting.

Gripping onto the paddle for dear life, my knees were locked in. Finally, I was doing it… I was stand-up paddle boarding.

Woo looked on from the edge of the river, waving and smiling at me like a proud father, as though I’d just removed the stabilisers from my bike.

The benefits of SUP are limitless which is why Woo advocates it so much.

“It’s great for improving your balance, it gives your body a full workout as you tense every muscle and it allows you to connect with nature,” he says. Woo is currently working on a programme to combine SUP and yoga which he promises will be the best workout yet. He also wants to take people on tours to other lakes and rivers in places like Tay Ninh or Da Lat. After a strenuous two hours of paddling, it was time to call it a day. My legs ached and my stomach crunched but I felt a true sense of accomplishment. I had paddle boarded on the Saigon River; something I never thought I’d hear myself say.

One hour of paddle boarding cost VND 250,000 and two hours VND 450,000. Visit waosupsaigon.com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 29

TURNING

THE PAGE A brand new book street brings an added touch of culture to downtown Saigon. By Simon Stanley. Photo by Vinh Dao.

30 AsiaLIFE HCMC

”

”

It’s much more beautiful than a normal bookstore.

It’s very open - Nguyen Thi Hoang Yen, 23

I

-1-

n 2014, a series of photographs taken in a Bangkok airport passenger lounge and published on Chinese news website Zhejiang Daily, apparently revealed a growing difference between Southeast Asian and Western cultures. While most of the ‘local’ faces are all glued to smartphones and other electronic devices, the ‘foreigners’ among them are all buried in books.

While the images represent only one photographer’s speculation (which of course did not take into account the presence of ebooks and the fact that ‘foreigners’ like smartphones too), it is a question that has been repeated several times in the media over the past few years, particularly in China: why have people stopped reading?

Despite boasting a literacy rate of 94.5 percent (official 2015 estimate) Vietnam would appear to be experiencing the same downturn. In a country of over 90 million people, a book selling just 15,000 copies is deemed a major success according to Thanh Nien News.

It’s something that Nguyen Khanh Hoa Binh has seen first-hand. As the PR and marketing manager for Nha Nam, a national publishing house specialising in modern literature and children’s books, Hoa Binh admits that reading a novel is just not something Vietnamese people do. “People think books are boring,” she says. “They are more interested in taking photos.”

Despite now being an avid fan of world literature, it was not something she picked up at school. “We had a library, she says, “but it was a place we’d never go to.” Even the city’s main public library, she admits, is not a place to visit for pleasure: “We go there to study, not to read.”

-2-

Unveiled in January 2016, a project taking place beside Ho Chi Minh City’s central post office aims to change all of that, encouraging Saigon’s residents to engage with books in an entirely new way. Costing VND 9.4billion (US$427,000), the 144-metre stretch of tarmac known as Nguyen Van Binh Street in District 1, previously home to nothing but parked cars and fallen leaves, has become a colourful array of

bookshops, book stalls and two bookthemed cafes. With regular chat shows, Q&A sessions, book signings and live events also taking place, Saigon’s premier book street has arrived.

“It’s not only a place to buy a book,” says Hoa Binh, “it’s a place to meet people, to hang out and to take photos.” With the bustle of bodies and the colourful displays of foreign and Vietnamese fiction and non-fiction titles on show, it’s hard to not want to buy a book, grab a coffee and escape the craziness of Saigon for an hour or so.

The reaction has been nothing but positive. In a city where buying a book can often mean a journey to one of just a handful of shops, having everything ‘under one roof’ in such an accessible and already popular spot has proven to be an overnight success for the publishing houses and for the promotion of reading in general. With its only other HCMC shop tucked away in Phu Nhuan District, Nha Nam has already seen a rise in sales.

“I think it’s very creative,” says 23-year-old Nguyen Thi Hoang Yen, a Saigon resident who regularly visits the street both as a social hangout and as a location to buy books. “It’s much more beautiful than a normal bookstore.

It’s very open.” Yen presents the book she has just purchased as a gift, a translation of Mary Lu’s Legend, a 2011 dystopian novel apparently inspired

by Les Miserables. As a regular buyer of ebooks, Yen admits that the arrival of the book street has encouraged her to engage with the paper and glue variety a lot more. “There are good discounts too,” adds her friend Nguyen Son Ha, 23, pointing to the various 20, 30 and 50 percent labels dotted throughout the store.

-3-

Nha Nam’s biggest selling title of 2015 was British illustrator Millie Marotta’s Animal Kingdom, an adult colouring book which has sold millions all over the globe. Colouring books, of course, have a far wider appeal than literature, requring minimum translation to export to overseas markets, yet Nha Nam’s second bestseller was a Vietnamese translation of Paulo Coelho’s The Alchemist. This 1988 novel has so far sold over 65 million copies worldwide.

Although the book street is dotted with other translations of foreign titles (the Twilight and Harry Potter series, and the works of John Green seem to be the most popular at present), Hoa Binh suggests that the original English versions are becoming increasingly popular. “Many young people these days prefer to read English books instead of Vietnamese books,” she says, “because when you translate a book into another language, it’s not always the same.” The huddle of locals inside Nha Nam’s second shop on the strip, dedicated to English-word titles, would suggest that she is right. “Can you recommend a good book?” asks one Vietnamese customer as he scrolls through the bargain crate of secondhand novels perched in the store’s doorway.

Despite the popularity of foreign works, many of the overall bestsellers of 2015 were 100 percent Vietnamese.

At number one, Tony Buoi Sang’s Tren Duong Bang, or On the Runway, is described by Hoa Binh as a self-help book. Judging by the presence of the Chicken Soup for the Soul books in every branch of Family Mart, it’s clearly a genre people enjoy. “I think everyone in Vietnam has that book,” says Hoa Binh of the motivational series.

-4-

Bookshops have undergone a turbulent few decades elsewhere in the world as the rise (and domination) of Amazon took sales into the virtual world and away from the high street. The arrival of their Kindle device and the rise of ebooks hasn’t helped. But as rumours begin to circulate of an impending rollout of 299 real-life ‘physical’ Amazon bookstores across the US (it already has one store in Seattle), things appear to be going back the way they came.

“Browsing (for books) on Amazon isn’t great as a casual experience: fatigue sets in,” writes author Lee Child in a recent article in the UK’s Guardian newspaper. “Nothing sells physical books better than physical displays in bricks-and-mortar locations.” Judging by the crowds currently descending on Nguyen Van Binh Street each day and night, it seems to be working. Even if some visitors are only here for the new 24-hour McDonald’s, it’s a step in the right direction.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 31

THE RISE OF

GAY TOURISM

32 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Since Vietnam abolished a ban on gay marriage in 2015, there has been a rise in LGBT tourists visiting the country. But are there any more incentives on the way? By Lorcan Lovett. Photo by Vinh Dao.

A

s a gay Hanoian, 33-year-old Nguyen Anh Tuan noticed an increase in LGBT visitors to Vietnam over the past few years and, being of the Vietnamese entrepreneurial spirit, he saw an opportunity.

There was a chance to bring gay travellers together and provide them with a tour guide that would make their experiences here more comfortable.

“Just like French tourists would like a tour guide that speaks their language and understands them,” Nguyen explains.

He launched Gay Hanoi Tours in 2014 and since then there’s been an annual growth of 30 percent in the business, while group bookings have gone up by 10 percent per year.

There are no official figures of LGBT tourists to Vietnam, although people in Tuan’s field have acknowledged a definite rise aided by a bolster in the country’s reputation among the global LGBT community.

This is partly due to the Communist Party abolishing a ban on same-sex marriage in 2014, which then went into effect on 1 January 2015. Gay marriages still do not have the same rights as those of straight couples, whose marriages are protected by laws dictating rights to assets.

But the progressive change helped attract 700 customers to Tuan’s tours last year.

He says 70 percent were gay clientele, 15 percent were women who felt more at ease among gay people, and 15 percent were straight people referred by their gay friends.

“The recent changes have had an impact by just putting Vietnam in the news in a positive light and illustrating how welcoming to all the country is,” says Tuan.

“This has caused more people to know

about our culture and history which has led to more people coming.”

The tours take in “real everyday Hanoi amid the chaos”, he adds, as well as “off the beaten track” locations.

“I hear from clients that they have ‘done the other countries’ and now want to explore somewhere new.

“I feel that there is a growing market and potential but it is up to the industry and the country as well as individuals to make sure that everyone who comes, leaves with a positive view of my country, as well as the urge to come back and explore more.”

Many countries across the world debate gay marriage and the acceptance of the LGBT community in the context of the church. For Vietnam, which is

“It is quite common to have violence from members of the family if they find out that you are LGBT.” Luong The Huy, LGBT campaigner relatively unmarred by religion, the heated discussions take place in the family home.

The latest survey from the Institute for Society, Economy and Environment (ISEE), a non-governmental organisation based in Hanoi, revealed that more than a third of Vietnam’s gay population is closeted.

Out of the 2,362 people asked, 68.4 percent admitted they were closeted. The participants were aged 13 to 54.

“The younger they are, the more open they are with their sexuality,” says ISEE’s LGBT rights program manager Luong The Huy. Online LGBT forum leaders in Vietnam strongly developed their community in the early 2000s and were then asked by ISEE to establish the program. Started in 2008, it is the first organisation in Vietnam to work exclusively at promoting the rights of LGBT people.

Luong and his team advocate with lawmakers, media, and leaders in education and the private sector. One of the fears of coming out, he says, is because of discrimination from those closest to the person.

“It is not usual to get attacked by strangers or when you are walking in the street, but it is quite common to have violence from members of the family if they find out that you are LGBT,” he says.

“A lot of people face struggles and discrimination from members of their own family. The situation is changing now because the social attitude is getting more and more accepting. “(There is) more discussion on LGBT rights; equality is happening on social media, in the press and in every day life. However when the issues come to traditional values or family norms, LGBT is not considered a part of them.”

Luong agrees that the show of tolerance in abolishing a ban on gay marriage has contributed to the rise in LGBT tourists, although he says the importance of improving LGBT-centred services – hotels, bars, clubs, etc. – should not be underestimated.

He also points out that unlike countries like Thailand and Taiwan, Vietnam does not have a plan to promote itself as an “LGBT tourism country”.

Despite this, Vietnam has never actually outlawed homosexuality. That alone can be viewed as an achievement when compared with the draconian laws imposed by other nations, even today.

And in November 2015, the country passed a law allowing those who have undergone gender reassignment to register under their new gender. The law will come into effect early next year after 282 of 366 lawmakers voted in favour.

Advocacy groups hope the legislation will pave the way for the surgery to be made legal in the nation. For now, people tend to have it done in Thailand.

The next step is gay marriage with all of the benefits enjoyed by straight couples.

Then gay tourists who visit the country may even stay.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 33

HEALTH AND WELLNESS

SET FIRE TO THE

PAIN

Monica Majors investigates a lesser-known side of Traditional Eastern Medicine.

Photo by Vinh Dao.

34 AsiaLIFE HCMC

G

oogle ‘cupping’ and you’ll get an array of intimidating links such as the Buzzfeed video entitled, ‘People Try Cupping Therapy for the First Time’, its thumbnail of a man in agony; or the sub-link to ‘Fire Cupping Cyst’; and the scariest by far, ‘Fire Cupping Dr Oz’. An image search is far worse: backs full of glass cups that look as if aliens have descended to suck our life force. Why, then, are so many dark circles peeking through the backless dresses of Hollywood’s elite or lurking beneath jerseys in the world’s most expensive locker rooms? What in the heck is it for? Is this just a cliche, or does it really deliver?

The What and the How

If fads come and go, this one has been around for a while – for more than 4,000 years, in fact. Brought to Vietnam from China during the lengthy interactions between their two schools of traditional medicine sometime between 2000BCE and 900CE, cupping therapy is deeply rooted in the local handling of pain relief. Today, treatments can be found in traditional medicine clinics, resort spas and wellness centres.

Practitioners in Vietnam must be certified to offer massage in order to practice cupping therapy, though do not require the same level of certification as is required for acupuncture.

In treatment, glass or silicon cups are laid on the afflicted area to gently pull the skin through suction, from either a pump or by creating a vacuum. Glass cups are more commonly used professionally to alleviate pain while silicon cups are recommended for at-home use or when treating cellulite. Most commonly used throughout Southeast Asia, Europe and the Americas is the technique of fire cupping, whereby a vacuum is created within the glass cup through a small cottontopped baton set alight, also sterilising the apparatus. The air is thereby removed from within the cup which is then placed on the

afflicted area – usually the back. Depending on the purpose of the therapy, the cup is either left in the same area for up to a few minutes (called ‘fixed cupping’), or is slid with the aid of massage oil (aptly named ‘moving cupping’). At no point does the flame ever touch the client. If herbs are used to aid in the detoxification process, a protective cloth is placed between the skin and the cup. Both experiences are painfree and are often described as a “reverse massage-like feeling.”

The Why and the Why Me?

Throughout history, cupping has been prescribed to treat pain, increase circulation, detoxify and to eradicate evil thoughts and spirits. Modern usage of the therapy is recommended to combat stress, aches and pains, allergies, fatigue, flu, colds, anxiety, skin conditions and fever, as well as to promote general relaxation. Traditional medicine works not only on the issue at hand, but through a holistic approach. Pain manifesting in one area of the body, it says, is the result of an accident and/or a blockage of chi - life’s energy flow.

Therefore it is often paired with acupuncture. When the cup is applied to the body, healers release this interruption of flow and in doing so promote muscle relaxation.

As the skin is gently pulled under the cup, blood flows freely to the localised area.

This increase in circulation is the impetus for the healing process. Circulation and chi are restored, so they say, expediting healing and general wellbeing. A pink bruise may remain after the treatment due to the increased blood flow, but will dissipate within a few days, so there’s no long term scars. Because of this possible result, if you currently experience oedema, skin ulcers or haemophilia, cupping should only be undertaken after first consulting your general practitioner, and is generally not recommended during pregnancy.

Be Like Beckham

A-list celebrities and athletes from around the world have been showing their praise for cupping since the early 2000s. The list runs from Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Aniston, Victoria Beckham, Lena Dunham and Justin Bieber, to Andy Murray, Chinese swimmer Wang Qun, most of the New York Mets baseball team and more, with many showing their circular endorsements of the practice at high-brow events (Greek physician Hippocrates was also a fan, if you’re against the establishment.). You need not venture all the way to NYC or London to attain such elite status. Cupping is deeply ingrained in Vietnamese traditional medicine, and is readily offered in hygienic and safe environments; some of them more lux than history once afforded.

Six Senses Spas at Evason Ana Mandara, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay and Six Senses Con Dao include cupping in every Vietnamese massage. Applied about a quarter-way into the treatment, fire cupping follows the massage along the back, as the muscles have already been stimulated to encourage detoxification and circulation. Coconut oil aids in the movement of the cups, and the treatment rarely leaves a mark, but certainly leaves a deeper sense of muscle relaxation.

Tension and stress are equally dissipated.

This must-try treatment seems to only be getting the credit it deserves through paparazzi-style coverage. A visit to FITO’s Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine came up void of any specific information on the therapy, mentioning only “massage”.

However, if you’re ready to try something new, you’ve got plenty of endorsements on your side.

Cupping therapy is available for VND 1,320,000 for 50 minutes at Evason Ana Mandara, VND 2,300,000 at Six Senses Con Dao and VND 2,400,000 at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay for 60 minutes.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 35

City of Art Art and food in Penang is better than ever as Monica Majors found out on a recent trip to the Malaysian island.

Photos by Monica Majors and Vinh Dao.

A

n affordable plane ticket and a burning need to escape the motorbike traffic drew me to Penang, Malaysia. First the Chinese, then the Portuguese, Dutch, English and finally the Japanese, have all had colonial influence over the island-state.

What they left in their wake is a veritable mash-up of culture and religion founded upon rich Malay traditions. In 2008 the capital, George Town, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage area, largely to preserve the Chinese shop-houses dotted throughout the city. I packed my flats, chopsticks and hand-sanitiser, ready for my next passport stamp.

A reasonable six hours of transit later

36 AsiaLIFE HCMC

and I was sitting comfortably in front of my first bowl of wonton noodle soup, listening to a couple purr over their experience at a nearby cat cafe. My interest was piqued, and I couldn’t resist. Unfortunately the cats were already fully stimulated; the cafe was at full capacity, and I would either need to wait or return. The receptionist handed me a map, smiled, and said, “Why not check out the art around the corner?” Now normally I’m not a fan of maps. Firstly, I can never fold them properly. Secondly, I travel as invisibly as possible and maps are a giant, reflecting beacon of conspicuousness. But, as I dusted off the cat hair, it unfolded and I discovered that there was much more to George Town than I had known.

The Arts and Culture Festival in 2012 kicked off what would turn out to be an evolving creative endeavour for the city, curated by passionate locals and the Penang State Tourism Development and Culture Office. Throughout the historical parts of George Town are more than 50 murals and sculptures in residence, with plenty more in the studios. Travellers can see 52 welded iron caricatures that, according Penang Global Tourism, “blend humour and historical facts, describing the prevailing colloquial demeanour of the early settlement days that gave memorable moniker to the streets and landmarks that are George Town icons today”. Six wall paintings from Lithuanian artist Ernest

“

If you’re keen to surprise yourself and peek about small streets, or aren’t averse to walking in circles, then I suggest you put down the map.

“

Zacharevic are also spread across the old town, plus several more from visiting artists such as Julia Volchkova, Martin Ron and many others.

Most taxis will drop off travellers at Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian), as the main concentration of murals is between there and the riverfront. One can easily navigate the streets without a map, but some of the best murals are tucked around corners. If you’re keen to surprise yourself and peek about small streets, or aren’t averse to walking in circles, then I suggest you put down the map and just walk in the same direction (or against) the droves of selfie sticks. This is how I stumbled upon some of the more remote art spots and was able to better glimpse slices of local life.

I snaked my way through Armenia, Pantai and Victoria streets and up to Lebuh Ah Quee, snapping photographs of a wellpreserved, yet modernised, colonial city.

Winding down an alley between Lebuh Ah

Quee and Lebuh Chulia I turned to see The Dragon himself, Bruce Lee, delivering a flying kick to a cat. Two, in fact! This cannot be, I thought to myself. Do not worry; it isn’t. An underlying sign in Chinese, Malay and English titles the project, The Real Bruce Lee Would Never Do This. It is the third of the 12 kitten murals painted by Artists for Stray Animals (ASA) as part of the 101 Lost Kittens project, and exists to remind the public to treat stray animals with respect.

So, I saw cats after all (yay!).

The larger-than life wall paintings of Ernest Zacharevic are equally as captivating.

The Kungfu Girl and the Trishaw Man are too large to miss, but if your eyes are on the ground, you’ll walk right by. The Kids on the Bicycle or the Boy on the Chair make for some great 3D interaction, with travellers queuing to become part of the art itself. One can also opt to buy any number of the many souvenirs adorned with such paintings that have become the unofficial logos of Penang.

More important to a visitor from Vietnam is the delectable palate of food that garnered the island the title of “Best Street Food” from Time magazine in 2004 (an honorary title I am unofficially bestowing on them again today). Stop along your journey at any food stall for the best char kway teow or pop into many of the Mamak restaurants for roti canai, panang curry and nasi lemak.

Don’t be afraid to get into any of the local spots; hygiene here is taken more seriously than in other parts of the region. Wash it all down with salted lime juice, a cup of teh tarik (milky tea) and don’t forget the mid-afternoon kopi (coffee). I’ve got plenty of great spots to recommend, but that’s another story entirely.

With easily accessible flights, Penang’s blend of East meets West lends itself for the ideal long weekend getaway, so long as you’re keen on the human necessities of walking and eating. Don’t worry, there’s plenty of kopi to keep you going.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 37

THE

SMALLEST

DETAILS Simon Stanley gets the executive treatment at Saigon’s immensely stylish Hotel Des Arts. Photos by Vinh Dao.

O

pened in October 2015, the fifth and latest addition to Vietnam’s offerings from the prestigious MGallery collection of unique, inspiring and first-class international hotels, Hotel des Arts, represents the first five-star boutique hotel in Saigon. And it’s not just a name; this unmistakable building on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, close to the junction with Hai Ba Trung, is as much a temple of art, architecture and interior design as it is a destination for world-class hospitality.

“Every MGallery hotel has a different story, and so do we,” says Luu Truong Hoai Nghiem, the hotel’s marketing executive. “When you enter the hotel, we would like to take you on a journey, back to 1930s Indochina.” It’s this merging of the old and the new that makes the Hotel des Arts far more than just another brown and beige link in a corporate chain of bedrooms.

Visit the 23rd floor bar and restaurant, the Social Club, for one of the finest examples of interior design the building has to offer.

Created by famous Japanese design-house, Super Potato Co, and backed by panoramic views of the shimmering skyline, the rich wood-clad space takes inspiration from some of the finest European saloons of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Like a fine artist, MGallery do not simply throw money at their hotels and expect a hit. With internationally acclaimed designers and architects contributing to their ever expanding portfolio, each MGallery property is a modern or historic example of exquisite design and first-class craftsmanship. It’s an approach that slowly 38 AsiaLIFE HCMC

reveals itself throughout one’s stay as the intricacies, the minute details and the interwoven, quirky yet understated design features gradually become apparent. It’s the subtle non-uniformity of the chairs in the restaurant; it’s the panelled ceiling details that change throughout the hotel’s various rooms, corridors, restaurants and bars, yet somehow retain a consistency; it’s the MGallery logo carved into the marble floor of the shower-room and accurately positioned directly below the monsoon shower-head.

It’s not just an ethos embedded in the decor, but in the hotel’s staff too, their eyes clearly attuned to the same standards as the designers. Not a leaf is left out of place.

The rogue drips of condensation from an icy jug of water, for example, are swiftly yet discreetly dealt with, ensuring the elegant lines and gleaming surfaces are not disturbed in any way. Like the architects before them, it’s a subtle approach that still leaves guests able to relax without feeling overly coddled.

A recent addition to the hotel’s offerings is the 22nd floor Sky Lounge, an exclusive area reserved for Le Club AccorHotels Platinum members and all guests staying on their Executive Sky floors (from floors 18 to 22), or in any of the executive studio suites. With a private check-in desk, complimentary tea, coffee, soft drinks and newspapers all day, plus breakfast, afternoon tea and complimentary evening drinks and canapés, all, of course, of the finest quality, it’s an upgrade that’s certainly worth taking.

For our 24-hour ‘staycation’ of

luxury, my partner and I are shown to a breathtaking corner studio on the 15th floor. The views are the first thing you’ll notice, here seen through the hotel’s futuristic curved windows. With such a unique frame, it’s as if we’re somehow seeing the sprawl of the city through a fresh set of eyes. It’s only a small detail, but it all adds add up. Classical elements are added through the rich oak parquet flooring, the decorative white wood-panelled walls and the clawfoot tub sat decadently in the near floor to ceiling bathroom window. Even the enormous plasma television is set inside an opulent gilt picture frame, allowing it to blend in with the rest of the decor rather than hanging like the incongruous slab of black plastic it really is. A two-hour YouTube slideshow of fine art is quickly found and the remote tossed aside.

After a superb buffet lunch of Asian, Japanese and Western cuisine in the hotel’s second-floor restaurant, Saigon Kitchen, complimentary afternoon high-tea can be taken in the calm surroundings of the Sky Lounge from 3pm onwards. Small bites, cakes, cookies and an array of fruits, nuts and snacks are at your disposal, and while the teas and soft drinks are offered for you to help yourself, the friendly staff are more than happy to fetch everything while you browse the newspapers or flick through the coffee-table photo-books.

Before the complimentary wines, cocktails, beers, spirits and canapés are wheeled out at 5.30pm, a dip in the rooftop infinity pool (with poolside bar) is a must.

Offering 270 degree views of Districts 1 and 3 and beyond, way up where the sound

of scooters is but a distant melody, it’s as far from the city as you can get without actually leaving it. Come nightfall, Saigon Kitchen offers another splendid buffet while the Social Club opens its doors to anyone looking for a taste of the finest food and cocktails in town. For those with a head for heights, head over the glass rooftop skybridge for direct access to the hotel’s neighbour, the renowned Shri Restaurant and Lounge.

The next morning, as we watch the sunrise ignite the Saigon skyline through each of the three enormous windows visible from the equally enormous bed, we realise the one major downside of hotels as luxurious and as relaxing as this one: at some point you have to leave them. While late checkout is offered to all executive guests (until 4pm subject to availability), it’s difficult not to count down the hours to departure as we enjoy a private breakfast buffet in the Sky Lounge. A nearby TV is showing the latest news headlines; Zika, North Korea, Trump; it’s all still out there, but for now we’re in here. The world can wait.

Visit mgallery.com for more information and booking.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 39

8

CITY DRINKS

Shiraz 20 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 // 10am to 11pm, Monday to Saturday shirazsaigon.com // 09 1756 9668

At the top of a narrow flight of stairs, a world of flavour awaits. By Simon Stanley.

Photos by Vinh Dao. According to Dung Tran, CEO of Shiraz Coffee & Wine, a sleek new wine bar and cafe opposite the Vietcombank Tower, just 5 percent of Vietnamese people understand and enjoy the world’s favourite fruit juice.

“Firstly, because of the price,” she explains. “People think that wine is expensive. Secondly, many people don’t yet like the taste. They prefer stronger alcohols like whisky or cognac.”

With one-on-one guidance available for all of their customers, plus regular tasting evenings and private wine lessons and parties, Shiraz is on a serious mission to spread their passion for wine. In doing so, they’re bringing more than just a few good bottles of plonk to Saigon’s table. “At the moment we have 650 different kinds of wine in our collection,” says Dung, “from both the old and new worlds.” Choosing one, therefore, may take some time, but it’ll be well worth it.

Sitting down in Shiraz’s cool indoor bar area (or on the spacious outdoor terrace), the sheer volume of wines on offer can be a little overwhelming.

With two parallel banks of shelves running almost the entire length of the room, each divided into country-specific columns, where do you begin?

“We would ask you what flavours you like,” says Dung.

“Sweet, sour or somewhere in the middle, for example. We also ask how much you want to spend. My staff can then begin 40 AsiaLIFE HCMC

recommending bottles to you.”

Despite appearances, Shiraz functions perfectly well as a wine shop on its own and customers are welcome to drop in to grab a bottle (or six) to go. Prices currently range from VND 255,000 per bottle, to VND 9 million and above, with a very affordable 7 percent added on top if you wish to pop the cork and enjoy your purchase on the premises. Glasses of selected house reds or whites are also sold for just VND 95,000.

“Right now, our customers are enjoying the wines of Chile and Argentina the most,” says Dung, who has been expanding her knowledge of the humble grape for almost 20 years. With frequent trips to the world’s most famous wine producing countries to study and learn from the winemakers themselves, Dung knows her stuff.

With a wide selection of imported cold cuts, pates, cheeses and chocolates also available (again, which Dung and her friendly staff will be more than happy to help pair with your choice of tipple), Shiraz has quickly marked itself out as more than just another downtown bar. “I just love to share my knowledge,” says Dung. When it tastes this good, who can blame her?

THE SQUARE VIETNAMESE BISTRO 34A Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, D2 // 012 6737 5759 // FB: The Square Vietnamese Bistro // 7am - 11pm

A new addition to Thao Dien’s menu promises to give the area’s Vietnamese cuisine a reboot. By Simon Stanley. Photos by Vinh Dao.

Head out of Saigon for a few weeks and you’re guaranteed to find something new has popped up in your neighbourhood upon your return. Such was the case with The Square. Opened in late January, this funky bistro behind Pendolasco was nothing more than a rundown garage-space before Christmas.

“It was six weeks from having the idea, to opening,” says Nigel Hall, the British-born art and design teacher turned restaurateur. In a land of often mind-boggling bureaucracy, it’s refreshing to see how an idea scribbled on the back of a beermat can become one of D2’s most exciting new dining spots practically overnight.

“She was my pool partner,”

says Hall introducing his business partner and head chef Quynh Pham. “We’d play pool, get drunk and talk about going into business together.”

Filling the middle-ground between cheap street-food and expensive ‘high-end’ Vietnamese dining, Quynh’s menu brings together a wide variety of affordable, authentic, yet highquality Vietnamese dishes.

“We’re zero MSG,” says Hall.

“You won’t find it anywhere in our kitchen. In Quynh’s cooking the flavour is all in her expertise with sauces and marinades and how you treat the food before you cook it.”

The Square’s nem lui, or barbecued pork and beef skewers (VND 125,000),

demonstrates her approach.

Originating from Hue, the delicately charred meat sticks are served alongside a platter of fresh greenery, all to be wrapped inside rice paper and dipped into a rich soy and pate-based sauce. For anyone who says, “I don’t like Vietnamese food,” they obviously haven’t tried this.

Next comes mi hoanh thanh - xa xiu (VND 65,000), a zingy noodle soup topped with vegetable wonton dumplings and a generous portion of sliced cha siu pork tenderloin. When Quynh says she’s trying to introduce the local expats to a new side of Vietnamese food, away from pho and bun cha, this is what she’s talking about. Delicious.

Although The Square’s menu

is 100 percent Vietnamese, there are two exceptions. One arrives first thing in the morning in the form of yoghurt and fresh fruit (VND 60,000) and is a bolt-on to local breakfast favourites such as bo kho (VND 75,000) and Vietnamese omelette (VND 65,000). The second exception is rolled out for the after-hours drinking crowd - a selection of Greek souvlaki kebabs with homemade bread wrappings (served from 10pm onwards VND 90,000 to 110,000).

If drunken plans taste this good, mine’s another Tiger please. At VND 35,000 a glass, it’s no surprise to hear that Hall and Quynh are already dreaming up their next culinary adventure.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 41

SCOTT & JEREMY’S 40 Dang Thi Nhu, D1 // 09 4890 1465 FB: Scott & Jeremy’s // 4pm – 10pm

This evolution of an old District 7 favourite promises simple but interesting Western and Asian fusion food. By Lorcan Lovett. Photos by Vinh Dao.

Naming a restaurant (or a product for that matter) eponymously must give the owner an added layer of pressure to deliver high quality.

It seems to have worked in the case of Scott & Jeremy’s, which opened its doors in January to offer a wide choice of Western and Asian fusion food.

The name will ring a bell with former patrons of Scott & Binh’s in Phu My Hung. Its co-owner, American chef of 20 years, Scott Marquis, 49, served its last celebrated burger in 2015 to make more time for his District 1-based family. Now he’s found a compromise with the new location, sitting opposite his other family-run D1 restaurant La Fiesta. His friend, Singaporean chef Jeremy Cheok, 30, is using his knowl42 AsiaLIFE HCMC

edge of the science behind food to take the venue in a more experimental direction.

Scott & Jeremy’s is an understated picture of simplicity.

Photographs of nourishing food and lighting from metal pipes stand above the wooden booths. Upstairs, there are six more tables with a terrace for smokers.

Prepping ourselves for the fusion, we ordered the Rendang Nachos (VND 150,000) which are actually puffy fried wonton skins underneath chunks of beef cheek, a rich cheese sauce, mayonnaise, julienne onions and a welcoming zing of freshness in the form of pomegranate seeds.

It’s an original dish that we massively enjoyed in the dining room’s comfortable environ-

ment, soothed by the mellow music accompanying each offering of their “twisted comfort food” – the flavours that most expats will miss, but with something that little bit extra.

333 (VND 333,000) is a deliciously hearty option that includes 333g of NZ rib eye steak with a 333 beer butter sauce, fried shallots, sautéed vegetables and an irresistible dollop of garlic mashed potato.

For a lighter choice, there’s Smokin’ Sushi Salad (VND 150,000) which has smoked salmon, basa, and boiled eggs, mixed with daikon coleslaw, seaweed, ginger and wasabi peas for a crunchy texture.

A soon-to-be favourite, the Royale with Cheese (VND 175,000), is very satisfying, with its two juicy 125g of beef pat-

ties, bacon, cheese, and garnish.

It comes with chunky wedges and curry ketchup.

Continuing with the theme of simplicity, all desserts are VND 99,000 (while all coffees are VND 30,000). We had the Snickers’ Tart with a chocolate ganache and caramel sauce that painted a mesmerising glaze.

To finish the feast, I sipped on a Manhattan (VND 100,000) that was stiffer than the table.

Every day the happy hour runs from 4pm to 7pm. It includes buy-one-get-one-free on beer and spirits plus an extra special deal depending on the day.

The menu is consistently good value for money considering the quality that comes with it, so it shouldn’t be long before Scott & Jeremy’s becomes a new type of familiar again.

THAI CONG RESTAURANT 215 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 // 09 8878 8215 // thaicong.com // 7.30am – 11pm

This stylish restaurant is all about light, quality food, attentive service, and an intriguing interior.

By Mathilde Dujardin. Photos by Vinh Dao.

THÁI CÔNG restaurant’s relaxing atmosphere suits its array of patrons, from the early work commuters to the romantic couples in the evenings.

But meticulous attention to detail has gone into creating this easy-going ambience.

Waiters are told never to ask their customers to repeat orders; the tables are lower than usual to make leaning in for a chat easier, and you will never see a napkin stiffly set upright.

It’s the brainchild of designer Thai Cong who launched The WAREHOUSE, an adjoining home store, last June.

The kitchen serves all of Thai Cong’s favourite food and the menu has everything, from schnitzel to sushi, boasting enough diversity to please the international crowd.

Out of the 35 or so smaller dishes, we enjoyed avocado, salmon and shrimp salad (VND 220,000), which was light, tasty and sprinkled with green beans.

The small courses were presented on a three-racked tray; perfect for grazing and sharing.

On another level of the tray was Pomelo salad with pork, shrimp and prawn crackers, or goi buoi tom thit (VND 120,000).

Small Vietnamese dishes include tom hoang kim - fried shrimp with salted duck eggs (VND 120,000).

There’s also a lashing of Continental bliss. From it, we chose pork schnitzel (VND 320,000) – probably one of the heaviest things on the menu. It came with a choice of sauces, and we decided on blue cheese.

A dream partnership: juicy,

bread-coated meat smothered in potent cheesy sauce, enjoyed in a non-smoking restaurant.

“The Warehouse effortlessly combines a state of the art venue with luxury and timeless design,” says marketing director Thomas Johan Henning.

“It creates an experience that is both stylishly intimate yet spacious enough to meet and surpass all your function or event requirements including breakfast, lunch and dinner settings.”

We lift our nostrils to the next waft of herbs swimming through the room. It’s coming from a machine near the till which always pumps out subtle, pleasant fragrances.

There’s also a good choice of breakfast items such as ‘Little Breakfast Buffet’ which runs

from 7.30am to 10am. The option includes all-you-can-eat croissants, eggs, yogurt, cheese, and fruit salad along with hot drinks for VND 160,000.

The extravagant weekendonly champagne breakfast (VND 1,390,000 plus VND 1 million more if you want to buy the whole bottle) chimes with the restaurant’s outside champagne bar, and the place’s slogan: ‘drink champagne and dance on the table’.

In other words, don’t be selfconscious here, and don’t forget to wander around the store afterwards and treat your eyes to a separate home store feast.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 43

THE DIGITAL

COBBLER

Simon Stanley visits Veritas Bespoke, where traditional crafts and modern technology combine to create some of the finest custommade footwear in Vietnam. Photos by Vinh Dao.

44 AsiaLIFE HCMC

T

hey say you can tell a lot about a man by looking at his shoes. With everything you’ve got going on up top - the tailored suit, the carefully chosen silk lining, the colour-coordinated tie - why settle for the worn-out pair of size 10s knocking around at the back of your wardrobe? Your foot is as unique as you are and your shoes should be too.

“It’s just like a key and a lock. A shoe will only fit one person,” says Thanh Le, owner and co-founder of Veritas, Saigon’s first truly bespoke shoemakers. He produces a custom-made last, the wooden form around which shoes are constructed. Along the side is the customer’s name. From this, Thanh and his workshop team can create a shoe with an absolutely perfect fit. “For example,” he says, “the left and the right feet will be different. Some people will have a high arch, some people a low arch, the instep too, and the width. They are always different.”

Traditionally hand-carved by highly skilled master craftsmen, it is in the creation of these custom lasts that Veritas’s approach has marked them out as one of only a few bespoke shoemakers in the world to have taken the once time-consuming (and costly) process into the 21st century.

Cutting-edge technology

With a background in engineering, Thanh earned an MBA in Canada where he met co-founder and master cobbler Thai Nguyen. The pair set about combining their skills to create a high quality, bespoke men’s footwear brand on par with the world famous shoemakers of Great Britain such as Foster & Son and Barkers. From the outset, the biggest problem, and the biggest cost, was always the creation of the lasts.

But Thanh had an idea. Whilst working for a Canadian retail corporation, he had seen a hand-held 3D scanner being used as a market research tool to digitally model the average Canadian’s foot and create a line of footwear best suited to it.

The technology was, and still is, fairly new, and at the time only two such scanners existed in the whole of Canada. “One was at my company,” says Thanh, “the other was

in the hospital being used for the creation of orthopaedic shoes. I knew we had to bring these two worlds together.”

Thanh and Thai invested in a scanner of their own and after two years of software development were able to successfully convert a computerised model of a foot into a computerised model of a last. With the help of a CNC milling machine, the digital models become a real-world wooden mould, uniquely and accurately crafted for the wearer and ready for a bespoke shoe to be constructed around it.

Founded in Calgary in 2013, Veritas arrived in Saigon in 2015. While having a tailor-made pair of shoes is nothing new in Vietnam, Veritas represents a return to traditional shoemaking techniques where skill, accuracy and quality are paramount, and drawing around a foot on a sheet of A4 paper simply doesn’t cut it. “You can get the length and the width,” says Thanh, “but you can’t measure the curves. That’s a problem.

To be truly bespoke, in the traditional way, you cannot just use a measuring tape.”

Choose, customise, create

After scanning a customer’s foot, Thanh and his staff will guide them through the rest of the design process, first by suggesting a style of shoe depending on the attire to which they should be matched. Oxfords, Derby’s, boots and loafers, the list is vast.

With a range of ‘off-the-shelf’ footwear available in addition to the bespoke service, everything is available to try before committing. If you have something particular in mind, one-off designs are also possible. Next comes the choice of material.

Imported Italian or French cow leather is standard but the more adventurous might prefer python, crocodile, ostrich or even the art-deco favourite, stingray, with its mottled patterns and iridescent finish.

Colour options are unlimited, as are the punched toe ‘medallion’ designs commonly seen on gentlemen’s brogues. Rubber soles are standard or you can upgrade to a leather sole with a choice of attachment options ranging up to a fully hand-welted technique that’s about a million miles away from the smear of glue that most mass-market shoes

are blessed with.

Another option beautifully displayed in cases around Veritas’s sleek store is their ability to add custom designs onto a shoe.

Take any image to them and their skilled craftsmen will carve it directly into the leather, using dyes to add colour and detail to the point that you may prefer them hung from the wall than tied to your feet. Thanh proudly hands me a pair of Oxfords with an intricate Chinese-style dragon carved along their flanks. Although not to everyone’s taste, they could be the most incredible pair of shoes you’ve ever seen. “This takes a long time, to carve the shapes and apply each colour separately,” he says, “but it will last forever.”

Prices for bespoke shoes begin at US$1,000, with each added layer of customisation priced separately. It may sound like a high price for a pair of kicks, but compare Veritas Bespoke to a similar service in London, for example, and you’d be looking at a figure three, four, even five times higher. “In the UK, a cobbler would have to make the last himself, by hand,” says Thanh. “It’s no good, because the customer won’t stay there forever for you to look at their feet.

“I always give the customer a guarantee.

If it doesn’t fit, we’ll destroy the shoes and make a new pair. If they still don’t fit, we will give you a full refund, including your deposit.”

The quality of Veritas’s shoes is staggering. The love and pride poured into each one is palpable and even if your budget only permits an ‘off-the-shelf’ pair (prices start at around $180), you know you’re getting a pair of shoes your feet will be proud of.

Veritas Bespoke is at 56 Le Thanh Ton, D1. Visit veritasshoes.com.

For March only, Veritas is offering free shoe polishing plus 10 percent discount on bespoke and off-the-shelf shoes to AsiaLIFE readers.

Just present your copy of the magazine or a photograph of this article to take advantage of the promotion.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 45

Aiya dress VND 2,200,000

THALA O O-Thala’s garments are inspired by sleek Scandinavian design yet also seek to incorporate the intricate designs and patterns of global cultures, particularly the handcrafted embroidery and beading techniques of Hoi An and the central region of Vietnam.

Othala is the last letter in the old Nordic runes and refers to the return to one’s ancestral home or sacred land. The O-Thala fashion label seeks to embrace

46 AsiaLIFE HCMC

this journey by drawing on cultural heritage from all around the world.

O-Thala represents its creator Louise Bach-Mogensen’s sacred land. Hailing from Denmark, it is born from her heritage and represents the knowledge she has gathered on her own journey around the world. “I hope with O-Thala you will not only find not only a beautiful fashion piece to complete your wardrobe,” she says, “but also a bit of inspiration for

your journey”.

Bach-Mogensen counts the graphic style of Danish artist Bjørn Wiinblad (1918-2006) among her many influences.

“I found it natural to draw inspiration from Wiinblad,” she says, “as he created authentic and magical universes through his art and illustrations, and though he grew up and was trained in Denmark, he was inspired by the imposing oriental style far from the Nordic pure style line.”

Medallion silk necklace VND 1,200,000

Vinblad silk shirt VND 2,800,000

AsiaLIFE HCMC 47

Ao Pao dress VND 900,000

48 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Vinblad silk shirt VND 2,800,000

AsiaLIFE HCMC 49

listings

hotel & travel CON DAO Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 939 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat Tel: 063 383 1515

escape

www.dalatedensee.com Nestled in the heart of the “Black Forest of Vietnam” and discretely hidden along the waterfront of Tuyen Lam Lake, this resort is a perfect launching point for exploring the Highland region. It has two fine-dining restaurants, a café and terrace, a cigar lounge, and golfing and tennis.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 / Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat café, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 / Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel: Level 23 bar, Mojo café, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

HUE, HOI AN & DANANG

Premier Village Danang Resort

Vo Nguyen Giap Street, Ngu Hanh Son District, Danang City, Viet Nam Tel. (+84)511/3919999 Fax. (+84)511/3919998 Email: H9530-RE@accor.com Website: http://premier-village-danang.com

Situated on a private stretch of the picturesque My An Beach, Premier Village Danang Resort Managed by Accorhotels is the perfect beach retreat. The resort house 111 villas, divided in 3 room types to suit different tastes and budgets with two swimming pools, a spa and wellness center and a range of sport activities.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Hotel Nikko Saigon’s Triple-S Package

Package’ includes a one or two night Stay in a Deluxe room or Suite (including breakfast), a lavish Seafood buffet dinner with a variety of lobsters, crabs, oysters and salmon at La Brasserie restaurant, and a 60-minute body pampering experience from the extensive menu at Ren Spa. Guests are also offered use of the Nikko Fitness Club and outdoor swimming pool.

Weekend getaway deal at Tirant Hotel Hanoi

As one of Saigon’s top five-star hotels, Hotel Nikko brings a touch of Japanese luxury and high-end hospitality to the city. Available until 31 March 2016, the exciting ‘Triple-S

50 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Ideally located in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, close to the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this family friendly hotel is the ideal base for a quick trip to the capital. Well equipped and with consistently positive reviews, it is more than deserving of its three to four star ratings. Contact the hotel directly to take advantage of their getaway special package which includes two nights in a deluxe room, one meal in the hotel’s Skyline restaurant, a guided tour of Hanoi or a day trip to the ancient capital of Vietnam, Hoa Lu Tam

Indochine Palace 105A Hung Vuong Street, Hue City Tel: 054 393 6666 www.indochinepalace.com Surrounded by the lush exotic garden, the hotel has is designed to appeal to the affluent, up-market leisure and business travellers with facilities offering for meetings, incentives, conferences, and exhibitions.

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: 0511 393 8888 danang.intercontinental.com A world of poetic experiences and jungle-clad romance in a place that cloaks you with luxury. The mastery of traditional Vietnamese design meets modern architectural flair in this distinctive retreat within the dense rainforest of mythical Monkey Mountain.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotels.com/en/namhai/ Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

NHA TRANG

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. InterContinental Nha Trang 32-34 Tran Phu Street, Nha Trang Tel: +84 058 388 7777 www.Ihg.com A luxury beachfront retreat located in the heart of the city, the resort overlooks the stunning coastline. From there getting around the city is convenient as shopping, attractions, restaurants and bars are easily accessible within walking distance of the hotel.

Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa / Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com

Coc, or a day trip to the Perfume Pagoda.

The price also includes free use of the hotel’s pool and gym, welcome drinks and fruit platter, daily buffet breakfast and round-trip airport transfers.

Escape and Relax at Mai Chau Ecolodge

Mai Chau is quickly becoming a popular spot for one or two night rural excursions from the city. Sitting atop a private hill in Na Phon village, Mai Chau Ecolodge is the most secluded haven in the valley, with a stunning backdrop of lush rice paddies and mountains. Built entirely from natural materials, each bungalow boasts high-vaulted ceilings, wireless Internet access and outdoor showers and/or bathtubs.

Valid until 31 March 2016 and starting at just VND 1,326,000 per person, sharing a Junior Deluxe room, the ‘All Included Spa’ package includes one night of accommodation, a buffet breakfast, free use of bicycles and swimming pool facilities, a 60-minute body massage plus 10 percent discounts in the lodge’s restaurant and on any further spa treatment.

Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms, divided into villas and condos, catering by well-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Princess D’Ânnam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan.

Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0908 781 756 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co. with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau

in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc District, Ba Ria Vung Tau Tel: +84 64 3788 888 www.thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include an 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The Grand will be the initial component of The Ho Tram Strip, the largest integrated resort complex in Vietnam.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com CHUDU24 hotel booking service 12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh St, D1 Tel: 1900 5454 40 www.en.chudu24.com Chudu24.com - the locally famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is known for having the best local prices and reliable service. It has been the number 1 Vietnam hotel booking service for Vietnamese since 2008.

AIRLINES Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

ONLY5,000 VND99,000 PASTA ND8 IZZAV P

AsiaLIFE HCMC 51

Bia Craft 90 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 083 744 2588 A cozy bar serving beer­themed snacks and some of the best craft ales in Saigon. Constantly buzzing with the friendly chat of local expats in the area.

listings

food & drink

Chilli Pub 89 Ton That Dam, District 1 Tel: 098 376 33 72 Located in the heart of the nightlife area of District 1, Chilli pub is a cozy bar full of fun. Hosting regular events such as quiz night, darts, live music and live sports on the big screens.

Menu revolves around Chili dishes with chili dogs and of course big bowls of Chilli.

BAR RESTAURANTS

Dublin’s Gate D1 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 This authentic Irish pub in downtown Saigon has a large wine list, a wide selection of single malt whiskey and local and imported beers, including widgets of Guinness. It also has a western and Asian menu.

Buddha Bar D2 7 Thao Dien, D2 // Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

feast

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

D2 55­57 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 35 194 138 Stylish non­smoking sports bar offering all the latest action on a choice of widescreen TVs.Perfect for sports fans who are looking for a cold pint and big portions from a tempting pub grub menu. Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Shrine 64 Ton That Thiep Tel: 08 39 142 817 ShrineBarSaigon.com A sleek cocktail bar on a street full of beer and football, Shrine is a standout for its décor and drink menu. Shrine offers everything from wine to drinks and snacks to full-blown meals, its cocktails are the reason to visit.

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends.

Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue. Also does excellent pizza.



Game On Sport Pub 115 Ho Tung Mau, District 1 Tel: 08 62 51 98 98 www.gameonsaigon.com A great place to catch all the latest live games while enjoying some great food and a few drinks with friends. The two big screens showing the games via satellite means you will never miss a minute of the action, while the kitchen serves up some truly hearty pub grub.

CAFES

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end café with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

CHINESE

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100k VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Royal Pavilion Reverie Saigon Hotel, 4th Floor, 22 36 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 08 3823 6688 Located in the Reverie Saigon Hotel, the Royal Pavilion serves up classic Cantonese cuisine in fine dining style.

Featuring a menu of epic proportions, there is sure to be something for

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Lunch deals at Shri

Mediterranean squid cazolette with black rice, and chicken paella, the set also has iced tea, soup, vegetables, salad and confit potatoes. Add a daily dessert for an extra VND 50,000 for the ultimate lunch combo.

Shri Restaurant & Lounge offers some of the most stunning panoramic views of the city. The dining room is set quite classically with simple white linen and modern-styled glassware, and offers the perfect ambience for all occasions. In these cooler months, head to the open-air terrace and dine among the frangipani trees and water features of one of the most famous rooftop spots in the city.

Free pizza at Eataly

Synonymous with fine food and spectacular views, Shri Restaurant & Lounge has now added a set-lunch deal to its midday menu. Available between 11am and 3pm, Monday to Saturday, and priced at just VND 180,000, it’s a delicious and convenient reason to head to one of Saigon’s prime rooftop restaurants. With a choice of six different mains, including BBQ pork ribs,

52 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Guanabana 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1 Tel: 09 09 82 48 30 Guanabana brings a California approach with its all-natural range of healthy smoothies. The smoothies are available in three varieties and are priced between VND 45,000 and VND 65,000.

Set on the ground floor of Saigon’s chic I Am Vietnam boutique hotel, the excellent Eataly restaurant is offering a ‘buy-two-getone-free’ deal on all pizzas until 31 March 2016. With a head-chef specialising in Italian cuisine, Eataly is one of Binh Thanh District’s best-kept secrets. Prepared with a generous helping of toppings and fresh ingredients, all spread out on a thick, homemade base, Eataly’s pies could rival any of the city’s

top pizza spots. It’s a hidden hem-gem that’s definitely worth locating. Pastas and local cuisine are also available, as is a solid collection of cocktails, beers, soft drinks and smoothies.

Blending colonial French design accents with a modern Vietnamese twist, I Am Vietnam’s restaurant is awash with cool pastel colours and vintage tiling which continues outside to the large terrace; an ideal spot for a starlit dinner.

Fresh oyster fiesta at Chanh Bistro

Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, enjoy a range of delicious oyster deals at this international bar and grill set on a superb rooftop in District 1. Choose from a six-oyster platter for VND 139,000, a 12-oyster platter for VND 259,000, or six baked oysters with bacon and cheese for VND 149,000. Free oysters are also offered when ordering glasses, carafes or bottles of wine, with choices ranging from a Sauvignon Blanc to a Rosé, to sparkling wine and Champagne.

everyone.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood.

Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Camargue 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 08 35 20 48 88 One of the first western restaurants in Saigon, Camargue offers a great selection of French food and wine in a romantic, rustic French villa.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 9263 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chef David Thai is a wellknown industry figure, and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants.

INDIAN

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3823 8424 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. 

Bamboo Chic Le Meridien, 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 086 263 6688 Slick, minimalistic restaurant boasting a stunning view of the Saigon River as well as a menu of high­quality cuisine that mixes Japanese and coastal Chinese styles. Worth a visit, even if it’s just for a cocktail.

Beets Salad Bar 111 Ham Nghi, District 1 Tel: 08 38 211 282 Arguably the city’s only salad bar, this fresh new spot provides healthy options for downtown diners by sticking to the basics.

BOC Barbeque 43 Nguyen Van Giai, D1.

Situated down a alleyway at the top of D1, this charming outdoor spot serves up quality American­style barbeque at astonishingly reasonable prices. There is also a good selection of seafood and pasta dishes as well as cheap beers and cocktails.

Con Bo Map 178/4B Pasteur, D1 Tel: 08 38 246 607 A small, modest space hidden down an alley off Pasteur serving some of the best burgers in town.

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

With revamped menu which includes a mix of family-style meals with Mexican featuring predomominately, followed by Italian and Asian fare.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails.

Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Koto 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 Tel: (+84) 3822 9357 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.

May Restaurant & Bar 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 may.restaurant19@gmail.com We have over 20 years experience in hospitality business in Vietnam with some famous Brand such as Shodow Bar & Café and MAY Restaurant & Bar. MAY- short for ‘Me and You’, it is all in one premium casual kitchen & bar downtown. Located centrally on the historic Dong Khoi street with a fusion of Western and Asian cuisine and pride themselves in their wine list and international standard of service.

Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 / Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com

AsiaLIFE HCMC 53

Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wokfried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

By Richie Fawcett

IMBIBE Bottled Cocktails The future is here; it arrived a few weeks ago. It sat quietly at the bar and waited to be ordered. Slowly at first, and then many at once, the orders started flooding in…

The bottled cocktail has arrived in Vietnam. No ordinary cocktail, this is a pre-made cocktail, made in batches of five litres the night before and decanted into cute reusable bottles with specially designed labels.

The point behind the bottled cocktail is to create a unique beverage serve, which cuts down on service time, whilst keeping consistent quality. Best results are from concoctions made up with mostly alcohol, and light sodas with a sweet and sour balance.

For busy bars, they offer the guest a fun optio, allowing the bartender more time to host. Whilst the conventional method of creating cocktails will continue to make the real bars an exciting place to hang out, hearing the sound of a Boston Shaker rattling behind the bar is like music to the ears, there is no doubt that the age of sustainable cocktails is here.

Stick to the spirit heavy classics like Manhattans, Martinis and Negronis. This way you make some for the girls and some for the boys. You can also dilute the drinks with a little spring water, or soda to be uber fashionable.

Bottled Manhattan Make 6 x 250ml servings 100ml Rye Whisky 400ml sweet vermouth 12 dashes Angostura bitters 300ml filtered water Directions Pour everything into a large 54 AsiaLIFE HCMC

pitcher and stir gently to combine.

Funnel into your bottles of choice and close them. Chill until ready to enjoy.

Bottled Margarita / Side Car / Sour Though these are three different cocktails, the ratio of liquor/triple sec/citrus is the same (three parts spirit (tequila, cognac, whiskey) to two parts triple sec and one part citrus juice). The below will make enough for a one litre batch batch.

450ml liquor (tequila, cognac, rum, vodka, bourbon, etc.)

300ml ounces triple sec 150ml ounces citrus juice (lime or lemon) 150ml bottled or filtered water Directions Funnel everything into a bottle and shake it up. Chill and shake again before enjoying.

Bottled cocktails are now available for the first time in the country at Shri rooftop restaurant and lounge, which has a 360 degree panoramic view of the city, at 23rd floor, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, HCMC, D3.

Shri has launched a ‘drinks with a view’ bottled cocktail range. At VND 120,000 a bottle, they are a fun addition to the beverage program.

Shri restaurant and Lounge manager Richie Fawcett is a designer and artist who sits on Asia’s 50 best bars voting panel and is responsible for training many of Vietnam’s best bartenders.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-style brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  OMG 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D1 Tel: 09 37 20 02 22 Perched on the ninth-floor rooftop of a hotel adjacent to Ben Thanh market, OMG has superb views over downtown Saigon and food to match. The menu is focused but includes enough choices to satisfy everyone across hot and cold starters, pasta and risotto, mains and dessert.

Quan Ut Ut 168 Vo Van Kiet, D1 Tel: 08 39 14 45 00 American-style barbecue meets Vietnam-style dining with big wooden tables and benches that are reminiscent of an open-air quan. Serving a wide range of smoked and barbecued meats.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Relish and Sons 44 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 012 07 214 294 Facebook.com/RelishAndSons Burgers are the stars of the show in Relish & Sons, with six varieties, all composed of different but expertly combined ingredients.  Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab.

Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. Stoker Woodfired Grill & Bar 44 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 090 729 2725 District 1 venue with spacious bar downstairs and upstairs dining room.

Serving a full selection of home aged US and Australian beef complimented by a delicious sides.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Urban Kitchen + Bar 18 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 62 506 363 UrbanKitchenBar.com Urban Kitchen takes a nuanced approach to Western cuisine, producing an eclectic compilation of regional North American dishes – whether it’s comfort food of the American south, Quebecois specialties or East Coast-inspired.

Viva Tapas Bar & Grill 90 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 54 106 721 Tucked away on a quiet street in Phu My Hung, Viva is colourful and welcoming and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Tapas make up the bulk of the menu and cover traditional dishes as well as a few house specialties that put a quirky twist on things. 

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, corner of Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoriastyle restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  LovEat 29 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 08 62 602 727 Facebook.com/LovEatRestaurant Chic downtown bistro LovEat occupies a prime spot opposite the Bitexco Financial Tower, serving traditional Mediterranean cuisine with an Italian twist. The restaurant prides itself on organic local ingredients and offers full meals as well as coffee, drinks and Italian pastries. Open from 9am til late. 

Romeo and Juliet Times Square Building, 57 – 69F Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 38 236 688 TheReverieSaigon.com Underground restaurant of the newlyopened Reverie Saigon, Romeo and Juliet is reinventing local dining to encourage the kind of slower, savourthe-moment experience that allows guests to enjoy the space’s ambiance, food and top-notch service.

JAPANESE

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Manmaru 71 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Japanese izakaya with a solid lineup of affordable beers, sakes and whiskies. Whether you choose the casual, pub­like experience downstairs, or the formal dining terrace upstairs, expect excellent food and even better prices.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. 

KOREAN

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway, decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  The Racha Room 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 09 08 791 412 RachaRoom.com.vn With street and hawker specialties from Thailand prepared under one roof – and in one room – The Racha Room is a restaurant-cum-lounge fit for a king.

Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 08 35 21 85 13 Tuktukthaibistro.com Tuk Tuk, a chic new modern Thai bistro. With three floors of seating, an open-air roof area and an array of Thai dishes to excite your palate.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls

of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Circus Kitchen 232 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Outdoor barbeque covered by colorful awning, dishing out all­you­ can­eat deals every Thursday plus a combination of grills and a la carte every day of the week in an ambient environment.

Hu Tieu Nam Vang Lien Hua 381 Vo Van Tan, D3 www.LienHua.com.vn Lien Hua has been serving Chinese­ Khmer noodle soup on this spot for over forty years. Pork and shrimp set hu tieu Nam Vang apart from your average pho while the house speciality dim sum selection is unmissable.

Mountain Retreat 36 Le Loi, D1 Tel: +84 90 719 45 57 A rustic restaurant perched above downtown offering a secluded getaway and tasty traditional food.

Quan Bui 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 08 38 29 15 15 From the team behind Quan Bui, the popular casual Vietnamese eatery on the north edge of District 1, is this four-floor fine-dining restaurant in downtown Saigon. The chic design and ambience, as well as its rooftop garden, are designed to attract a more up-market clientele.

Saigon Lookout D1 37 bis Ky Con Tel 09 6688 4668 Saigon's Lookout is one of Saigon's hidden gems where east meets west, with a menu of twisted Vietnamese cuisine complimented by funky oriental cocktails.

nightlife See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,

Our Australian beef is grass fed and selected from farms across Victoria.

We also have Australian lamb and locally sourced fine pork and chicken.

Proudly Australian owned and managed.

No. 1 Street. 2, Thao Dien Ward.

District 2. Ho Chi Minh City www.meatworksasia.com T:+84 8 37442565

AsiaLIFE HCMC 55

D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

LOCAL EATS

By Tristan Ngo

Vegetarian Delight When most food writers and celebrities talk about Vietnamese cuisine, they most often mention noodles, meat, and rice dishes, but not the vegetarian food, or com chay.

Thanks to the large Buddhist population, you can find vegetarian eateries pretty much everywhere in Saigon.

Practicing Buddhist monks are vegetarian and most often dine in their respective temple on a daily basis.

So why try vegetarian? For one, it’s a cuisine that local Vietnamese know how to prepare well. Vegetarian food can compete perfectly well against the thousands of other restaurants in the city. Also, being a vegetarian is not a big deal in Vietnam unlike many places in the West.

Here are some of my favourite vegetarian restaurants in the city.

An Nhien Quan is a friendly, clean and cosy bistro on a quiet street in District 1. Soybean, tofu, green beans and various vegetables dominate the menu. Banh beo (water fern or steamed rice cake), lotus fried rice, banana flower salad, mushroom spring rolls and hot pot are all flavourful and well worth trying.

94 Nguyen Van Thu, District 1 9.30am to 10pm 08 3910 1129

56 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Loving Hut Hoa Dang is one of the most popular vegetarian restaurants in the city. Spacious, bright, very clean and frequently busy. The menu is quite extensive. The Pandan and hoa thien ly (Tonkin Jasmine) fried rice, braised gluten with coconut juice, okra with roasted garlic and deep fried oyster mushrooms are delicious.

38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Dakao Ward, District 1 9.30am to 2pm and 4.30pm to 9pm 08 3820 9702 Buddha Chay Vegetarian Restaurant is owned by Phi Nhung, a famous Viet Kieu singer. Popular, small and cosy, with warm service and tables packed tightly close to one another, it serves up some amazing vegetarian dishes, especially lau tim thuoc bac (hot pot of stewed sweet herbal soup), with sides of vermicelli, tofu, assorted mushrooms and vegetables.

31 Dang Tat, Ward Tan Dinh, District 1 11am to 9pm 0835265138 Tristan Ngo is the chef, patron and owner of Skewers Restaurant and The Elbow Room.

Saigon Saigon Bar Rooftop via 9th floor, Caravelle Saigon Hotel, 19 - 23 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 A great iconic bar to watch the sun go down over the city skyline, or dance the night away. The panoramic views of the city are spectacular, particularly in the evenings. Live entertainment nightly with Cuban band Q’vans except Tuesday from 9:00pm till late.

at home BAKERIES

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

Le Padam – Saigon 230 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 090 704 6281 Cheese fanatics can indulge in delicious French imports amid a spacious, airy bistro that also serves wine and desserts. The homemade bread is crisp and soft, attracting many locals to buy baguettes daily.

DELIVERY

Food Panda www.foodpanda.vn Online delivery service with over 500 popular restaurants available. www.vietnammm.com A free website that allows users to order delivery from dozens of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City.

Simply provide your address and phone number and pay the delivery driver in cash when he arrives

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Big C Floor B1, Cantavil An Phu Building, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.bigC.vn This ‘supercentre’ offers a clean, comfortable shopping environment with a wide assortment of goods, including fresh food and home accessories, available at reasonable prices.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2 Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Meatworks Butchery 1, Street 2, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 08 3744 2565 Imported meats from Australia, including top-quality beef and lamb, and locally sourced pork and chicken..

Proudly Australian owned and managed.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products.

Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

listings

culture CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D.2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

CGV cinema Vietnam Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 08 6297 1981 Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 5412 2222 Pandora City, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu Thao Dien Pearl, 12 Quoc Huong, D2 Tel: 08 3519 3000 Vincom Thu Duc, 216 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc Tel: 08 3722 8811 SC Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 08 3775 0055 Liberty CityPoint, 59-61 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 08 3822 3111 Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang , D7 Tel: 08 3416 0088 Celadon Tan Phu, 30 Tan Thang Road, Tan Phu Tel: 08 6265 1000 www.cgv.vn State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

listings

By Phil Kelly

FITNESS Call For a Recount: Part 2 I don’t eat calories – I eat food! I don’t want to be a mathematician at meal times. Part 1 explained that food labels are not precise… in fact Dr Jonh Bernardi of Precision Nutrition states they can carry up to a 20-30 percent error rate. Energy expenditure calculations can also be 25-30 percent inaccurate. So, even if you are extremely conscientious, meticulous and take the time to painstakingly calculate all these numbers, you could be 60 percent inaccurate!

Counting calories can raise awareness about portion sizes, but there are much easier methods that require much less time.

Furthermore, the calorie theory has never been proven. Francis Benedict, in 1917, was the first person credited in conducting calorie deficit experiments.

Researchers have shown that in the Benedict study, and every subsequent study where a calorie deficit has been created in a human, the outcome has been “some weight loss, accompanied by immense hunger and tiredness with an overwhelming desire to want to eat more and do less”.

These studies show, says one of the UK’s leading dieticians, Zoe Harcombe, that “weight loss has never matched the 3,500 formula. It has never even come close; weight regain has been observed every time.”

Harcombe’s research points to the 1945 Minnesota Starvation Experiment as being the definitive study. “36 men were put on a 1,500-1,600 calorie a day diet with a moderate walk scheduled each day. They lost a fraction of the weight that the 3,500 formula would have predicted. The men turned

58 AsiaLIFE HCMC

into miserable, food-obsessed shadows of their former selves.

Within six months, researchers found it increasingly difficult to induce any further weight loss, even dropping calorie intake to around 1,000 a day. Some men started regaining at a calorie level that should have seen them continuing to lose weight. Within weeks of the conclusion, the men had regained all weight lost, plus about 10 percent,” states Harcombe.

Unsubstantiated Theory Harcombe asked the British government and health authorities to explain the theory. The responses were amazing. No leading agency had any idea where this founding piece of diet advice came from or supported its validity, yet it’s in all their literature!

There is almost a century’s worth of crushing evidence that the calorie theory doesn’t work. The mantra of “do more, eat less” for weight loss seems to be only making society fatter. It’s time for a recount… more crucially to start counting more important dietary and lifestyle elements. So before you sign up to any drastic weight loss programme, you should really investigate the method or theory. You might end up in a worse position than you started.

Phil is a health practitioner and expert in body transformation.

His services are available at Star Fitness (Starfitnesssaigon.com), online or at your home. Contact him though his website Philkelly.com or Facebook.com/ BodyExpertSystemsVietnam.

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

CRICKET

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Salsa package for single persons and couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment.

Available for party hire - BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY

Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club

Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

Call Us

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

American Chiropractic Clinic 161 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3939 3930 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treatsback pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons.

DENTAL

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2000 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC, International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3925 9797 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

Accadent 39 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 08 6267 6666 A clinic that brings leading German dentistry to Vietnam. All dentists here were trained in Germany and all equipment comes from Germany to ensure proper hygiene and quality.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 24 Thao Dien, D2 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

Minh Khai Dental Clinic 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 08 3925 3399 nhakhoaminhkhai@gmail.com www.nhakhoaminhkhai.com No.1 Dental Clinic 51 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 08 3929 0909 nhakhoano1@gmail.com www.nhakhoano1.com

MEDICAL Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral,

60 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynecology, pediatrics, ophthalmology, psychology, psychiatry, osteopathy, acupuncture and psychomotor therapy. .

SKINCARE The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company offers hundreds of products for different skin types. Also has kiosks at in Phu My Hung, Diamond Plaza and Zen Plaza.

IVE . EAT . DR G .

K INK N I R .G .D IV AT

NEW ZEALAND

WINE

& FOOD FESTIVAL

HO CHI MINH CITY

E . EAT . DRINK .

GIV

E

AT E .

INK . GIVE . EAT R D . .

G I V E .

E

listings

family By Poppy NguyenEastwood

EDUCATION HUB Furthering Education The term ‘education’ lives not only amongst academia.

It is far broader. At school, we follow a curriculum learning facts and dates and all that seems essential within a subject however, it doesn’t fully encompass everything that has happened in our world, or knowledge that extends outside the boundaries of the school’s syllabus.

So how else can we extend our knowledge? By selfeducation. Self-education is about autonomy and curiosity.

It’s about being present and finding interest in our surroundings and influences.

Some of us are luckier than others because we get it in the home.

If you have well-educated parents that talk about current affairs at the dinner table and discuss a multitude of subjects, you will absorb the information organically. We tend to know things that our parents talk about. For example, if your parents are into rugby, by default you will most likely learn about the game.

Books are yet another way to educate yourself. From complicated textbooks to historical fiction, there is a wide range of pages to turn that can enlighten. Stories well written have a clever way of educating without us realising it. So, for defiant teens that don’t like to think they are reading a book for the purpose of learning, a great story will do the trick.

Most teens are lazy. Quite often I want to lie around the 62 AsiaLIFE HCMC

house, browse my Facebook feed, hang out or chat with friends, or watch a movie (we learn through this avenue as well). On days like these, anything educational, or reading something more challenging is, to me, repugnant.

Nevertheless, we are always learning. Endless information seems to slither its way back. For instance, there are constant articles that appear on my Facebook feed. Whether frivolous or serious I am always tempted to read them.

The news is so easy to access online and it’s a nice alternative for those who prefer instant gratification.

Friends are another way for further educating. Amongst ourselves, we talk about the subjects that interest us. We learn by chatting to each other, which is fun, chilled and usually not boring! I enjoy a heated discussion. There’s nothing like a good old-fashioned debate; they are healthy for the soul. It allows us to hear other opinions and may even make us question our own.

Extending our knowledge is essential to growing and developing. It is easy to tune out (and sometimes you need to) but it is wise to have an open mind and to keep learning new things.

Poppy Nguyen Eastwood is a Grade 10 student at Lycée Français International Marguerite Duras.

ACTIVITIES

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, D 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes for kids from age six.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Maman Bebe L2-11, Vincom Quang Trung, Go Vap 3rd Flr Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza, D5 L2-11K, Vincom 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 52-54 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 191 Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan S11-1 Sky Garden 1, Phu My Hung, D7 The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Albetta 32 Tran Ngoc Dien D2 58 Nguyen Duc Canh, Tan Phong, D7 Albetta is a British family owned company, with a factory in Saigon, which produces beautifully designed and handcrafted clothes, gifts, shoes and accessories for children. Their new Lucky Luca collection shown are available in Albetta shops now.

DLS Paris Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle

pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 42 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 71B Dong Khoi, D1 22 Nguyen Trai, D1 344 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 343 Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833/34/35/36 office@theabcis.com www.theabcis.com Judged “an outstanding school” by British Government Inspectors, the ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA and Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Serving 2-18 year olds in a caring environment, it delivers a globally valued curriculum based on best UK practice. This culminates in the award of IGCSEs and A levels from the Cambridge and AQA examination boards. These “gold standard certifications” afford entrance to the very best universities around the world.

American International School 220 Nguyen Van Tao, Nha Be, HCMC Tel: 08 3780 0909 www.ais.edu.vn info@ais.edu.vn Established since 2006, American International School is a private school serving students from Preschool through grade 12. Operate on 3 campuses, the school offers innovative American curriculum with true Vietnamese heritage.

All students are well prepared for academic success appropriate to their needs and aspirations in the US and around the world.

The Australian International School Xi Campus (Kindergarten) 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 35192727 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & Primary School) 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, Middle & Senior School) 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway) An Phu ward, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with 3 class campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an international education from Kindergarten to Senior School with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programe (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam operating from three purpose built campuses in HCMC catering for students from pre-school to Year 13. The school operates within the framework of the National Curriculum for England and is staffed primarily by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Students are prepared for both IGCSE & the IB Diploma

programmes. BIS is a member of FOBISSEA & is fully accredited by the Council of International schools EUROPEAN International School 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien. Tel: 7300 7257 www.eishcmc.com jura.cullen@cantab.net The EUROPEAN International School Ho Chi Minh City (EIS) offers an international education from Early Years through Primary and Secondary School. EIS is committed to educating students to become creative critical thinkers and problem solvers. In small student centred classes, students are immersed in a multicultural learning environment which values multilingualism. The language of instruction throughout the School is English; the language program includes Spanish, German, French and Vietnamese.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

The International School HCMC American Academy 26 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9098 www.aavn.edu.vn The International School Ho Chi Minh City - American Academy is a worldclass middle and high school for children aged 11 to 18 years old. Offering a comprehensive academic program built upon the principles and standards of the American education system..

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2222 7788/99 www.issp.edu.vn The International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is a world-class Elementary School for children aged 18 months to 11 years old offering a full American school curriculum in Vietnam. With a custom built primary campus ISSP’s ethos is centered on building caring relationships with each child and family.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn An International British school providing inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. The school has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and keep class sizes small to ensure each student is offered an educa-

tion tailored to meet his or her individual learning needs. It is a family school providing a stimulating and secure learning environment with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

ENTERTAINMENT

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other costumes.

Bibi Clown - Chu he Bibi Tel: 0933 131 012 bibiclown.blogspot.com Does exactly as his name suggests.Great service has earned him a reputation for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons and games in both English and Vietnamese.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

The Balloon Man Mr Hoat 0903 837 326 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. He will come to your place for decoration but English not as good. Also provides helium balloons.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 63

listings

living By Paul McLardie

PERSONAL FINANCE Turns Like an Oil Tanker Anybody attempting to keep up with the markets since the New Year will have been very busy. Oil prices have been turning round even slower than the tankers that carry the stuff and some equity indexes…well.

There is so much noise about this, but which lane of traffic do you follow? One side says ‘the end is coming and it is time to sell all your stocks’, where the other side say ‘now is the time to jump in and buy anything that is cheap’. Let’s look at these two schools and see when you should follow them.

The main aspects of any investment plan is what timescale you are looking at and the risk that you are willing to take. If you are only looking at your investments in the sense of pure monetary value, you are speculating rather than investing. Attempting to time the market value is an extremely dangerous thing to do and should only be done by those who have a higher threshold to risk over a short period of time.

So if you relish a downturn in the markets, and think you see some value, then yes, it is time to buy more.

Now volatility comes into play. When you see a graph with a squiggly line on just about anything related to finance, you will see how it is never smooth; it goes up and down. The more

64 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the line moves up and down, the more volatile that thing is.

More volatility = more risk. If you are not happy with the risk, you will have sold out of these stocks long ago, and if you haven’t sold out yet, you are not going to.

What if you are just starting to look at investing? Firstly, understand what the different types of risk are and how you can use your own tolerance to it. Also, look at the reasons that you are investing for, and the ultimate goal. Find things to invest in that fit for you, not the other way round, and if you still can’t find anything, start looking away from the normal options.

There are funds out there that specifically look to lower your risk with the type of investments that naturally do well in difficult periods of time. Have a look out for funds that pay high yields (returns), dividends that pay directly back into the fund, or a Special Situations fund such as one from MitonOptimal. Both of these types of fund are designed for this situation and are easy enough to buy into and sell out of when the market conditions, or your conditions, alter.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management.

Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com.

BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 info@bbgv.org / www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers Asia Ltd. 4th floor, 04 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers’ HR performance management services include: team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi

Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash

bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 65

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

By Gary Woollacott

PEOPLE MATTER Welcome to the One Per Cent Before you get worked up about my elitist headline, please read on – you might be pleasantly surprised. I’ve written before about how most people drift through life, not doing much apart from consuming other people’s output.

Well, just recently those thoughts were running through my mind again and I started to wonder: who is actually adding value to the world? I’ve said here before that our activities don’t have to be profit-making, only that they have to be useful to society. If you’re doing something that is dead-end and adds no value to anyone, then think about trying something else. Chances are you are using up the world’s scarce resources and giving nothing back.

Hence my title: the one per cent of people who make a positive contribution, whether that’s creating jobs or works of art, being of service to individuals or society, inventing new products or discovering new ways of doing things – whatever, as long as it’s useful. If you are doing that, congratulations, and please keep on doing it. Even better if you can encourage others to do the same: bring them along on the journey and enjoy the results.

Imagine what our workplaces could be like if even a majority of people were really engaged and interested in doing the very best they can. Instead, so often we have to put up with mediocre performance – and for some countries in our region, to be blunt, that’s the expectation. Those countries will likely find themselves stuck in what’s known as the ‘middle income trap’ – not smart enough to

66 AsiaLIFE HCMC

become rich with value-added products and services, and too expensive in terms of labour to compete with other, cheaper countries.

Part of the problem can be traced back to education systems that encourage rote learning and conformity. That doesn’t, in general, lead to innovative workforces. Instead we are left with people who can be trained to perform tasks, but not much else.

If your education was nothing like that, you are lucky – and have a much better chance of being in the one per cent. It’s difficult when your whole life you’ve been told to conform, to suddenly break out of that and become analytical and self-critical, looking for the best ways of doing things and not being happy with ‘the way it’s always been done’.

If you are bumping up against that, please ask: why? The more we question, the more likely we are to see improvements in society and, subsequently, our standards of living. But we have to do this ourselves. Even just taking small steps is better than nothing. And by doing this, you increase your chances of contributing. Welcome to the One Per Cent!

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is an executive search consultant who works for Horton International in Vietnam, Thailand and Laos. He can be reached at +84 8 3910 7682 or via woollacott@hortoninternational.com.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 6/39A Tran Nao Street 12, D2

Tel: 3740 6009 www.gayavietnam.com Gaya is re launching with new name at the new location featuring the work of foreign designers: furniture and lighting

by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and other home accessories and outdoor furniture .

LINH‘S WHITE

37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Mai Home 92 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 08 62 818 399 MaiHomeDecor.com Producer of fine lacquerware lamps and furniture, Mai Home combines modern design with the traditional art of Vietnamese lacquer to create tasteful and durable homewares. Also provides worldwide shipping and customisable designs.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 / www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

REAL ESTATE

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street / Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 / Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 / Tel: 0989 007 700 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

Diamond Island Luxury Residences No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay Ward, D2 T: (84) 968 293 388 / 3742 5678 F: (84-8) 3742 3232) www.the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging

from two- to four-bedroom units with private balconies providing panoramic views of the stunning surroundings in one of the most spectacular sceneries in the city. Each lavish space features plush interiors, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, creating a luxurious harmony of comfort and sensorial tranquility that will have you relaxed and recharged, and functioning at peak performance.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

RECRUITMENT

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also provid-

ing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 / Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Horton International 5F, Vitic Building 6B Nguyen Thanh Y Street, D1 Tel 3910 7682-3 www.hortoninternational.com Established in HCMC in 2005, Horton International services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. Horton International is one of the world’s leading executive search groups with 50 offices in 30 countries. For more information, contact vietnam@hortoninternational.com.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS Four Winds 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: +84 8 3521 0071, www.agsfourwinds.com ags-vietnam@agsfourwinds.com Global leader in international removals and relocations, with 128 offices in 78 countries.They can move customers to and/or from any location worldwide.

Crown Worldwide Movers 2ndFl 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com hochiminhcity@crownrelo.com

Not just International or local moving and storage. Crown Relocations offer a wide range of services including orientations, immigration, home search, intercultural training through to pet relocation. Call the team on the above number and check out our website for more information.

made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations 1st Fl, 214 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 7102 MOVING!? www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with ware! housing, handyman, insurance & claim, ! orientation an partner career support services also availble.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

!"#$%&&'(!)%*#)%&&'(!+),-.)%*#)%&&'/!

By Ruben Luong

FASHION FIELD NOTE Spring into Spring but Fall for Fall Shortly after I wrote about spring campaigns in this column last month, I started to wear short sleeves and lighter clothing. It was only then I fully realised how much I will miss wearing all my favourite coats and sweaters here in the States.

Fortunately, there was ample coverage of the Fall 2016 shows at New York Fashion Week, and although Vogue editor-inchief Anna Wintour recently said that NYFW was actually a disappointment last month, it allowed me to temporarily live in denial by mentally hanging onto fall and winter fashion for just a little bit longer.

Ralph Lauren Not only did my favourite model Karlie Kloss open the Ralph Lauren show, the collection began with rustic, monochromatic sweaters, cardigans, turtlenecks, loose trousers and boots in my favourite shades of taupe. The collection crescendoed with blazers, culottes, capes, wide rustic belts and slouchy suede boots in richer, deeper browns and tartans, then with black velvet and royal blue numbers accented in fringe and pussy bow accents.

Diane von Furstenberg Rather than showing her Fall 2016 collection on a traditional runway, the divine Diane von Furstenberg hosted a dance party in which top models – including Kloss (the face of DVF), Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Jourdan Dunn – loosely paraded in glamorous, disco-style dresses and 70s wavy hair to Sister Sledge’s ‘We are Family.’

Confidence was everywhere as

68 AsiaLIFE HCMC

the energy seemed fun and flirty for a very strategic, but ultimately warm and well-received Instagram photo-op to promote the clothing.

Rodarte It’s no wonder many of Rodarte’s previous collections are exhibited in prestigious places like the Metropolitan Museum of Art – for fall, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy presented another beautifully romantic and gothic line exploring life, love and death.

Fashionista.com described the clothing best, characterising it as a “woodland romance” with a “nymph vibe” and commented that “though elements of the collection felt heavy, the eveningwear peppered throughout was positively dreamy”.

J.Crew In September I briefly wrote about Thai-Canadian designer Somsack Sikhounmuong, who at the time had recently become the head of women’s design at struggling American retailer J.Crew. Sikhounmuong debuted his first collection with the company last month to much excitement. He presented bright and polychromatic designs in bold prints that seemed to revive the retailer’s reputation for polished, tailored wear: magenta flared pant suits, candy red flared and cropped botanical trousers, evergreen and buttermilk chunky knits, cheetah jackets, vivid pink faux-fur coats and even maroon pajama-style sets with floral flourishes.

Ruben Luong is AsiaLIFE’s style editor. Contact him at ruben@ asialifemagazine.com.

0#1.!2#3-(!#4$-(!5%$,#.'/!! !6--7!8,#.%9-!/! :&%))+)9!,#!.-&#$%,-!;#.&7;+7-/! ! !"#$%&$''(")*'+,"-%,'.%*$#/*0'

!!!

<=>=?!@!AB!!A!!CDBB!DEFG!!!!H!!!!8%&-8I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! ! <%)#+?!@!AB!!B!!CDEA!LDEM!!!!H!!!!+)5#I8%+9#)J%)K$#3! www.saigonvan.com

Santa Fe Relocation Services 8th floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com vietnam@santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around world, Santa Fe offers local & international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration & records management.

STATIONERY

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 / Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 More than 25 stores providing photocopying & printing services.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led inte-

rior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

Emphasises muted tones and unobtrusive logos.

women

BCBG MAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Corner Boutique 23 Ly Tu Trong, 1st floor Tel: 012 36 310 099 Corner.com.vn Hidden on the first floor of a downtown apartment building, Corner Boutique boasts an elegant, eclectic collection of womenswear, accessories, handbags, shoes and small trinkets. Open daily from 9am to 9pm.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

Marketing & Communications | PR Design | Video Production | Photography Web Solutions | Publications | Editorial Contact Tel: 0903325543 Mail: jonny@asialifemagazine.com

1 h in Ch an h

nh Di

PHU NHUAN Ng uye nV an

B

nD

yn Hu

inh

Ph u

ng

Tro i

Dieu Tran Quang

h Huynh Va n Ban

Ph a

hV an B

Ng

Na m

Tran Quang

T han g on g Qu y

Ly Ch inh g on Xu Tu

Ph u

n

Bi e

Ng uy en Th ien

en uy Ng

To

ity rs ral e v i tu es Un f Na nc o cie S

uo An D

g uon ng V

r che Tea ining a Tr ersity v Uni

Cu

n

DISTRICT 5

iet

Ha

iM Th

h in

K

nh Cha

Van

u Ph

nh

n uye Ng

ng Tro inh nB Tra

ng Pho

an To

an Tr

n So

en uy g N

Th ua t

mV Pha

ng uo gV n Hu

Di

V

Ba nC o

Ly Tha i

E

en Hi g on hu oi .T hu .C Ng

Qu ye n

en uy Ng

V C u M hu on ar o ke i t

Thanh

inh

V

Ca oT ha ng

District 11 2km

Tra nM

2

Do

D

en Di

Ng uy en Th o

DISTRICT 10 g han 3T

u Sa

en

Lan Ma n Sp Anh g Th ang Leis orts & Tam ure Clu b

ung

i Th Vo

Ky D

inh

Tru on gD inh

on g

Th

H Hoa

Tran M

Cac h

Van Dang

en uy Ng

C

n Tra

Sa inh Train igon Quy Sta en tion

Tan Binh 0.5km

h

nS y

n Dang Tran M

Ky K

Le V a

Dieu

Tran V a

Nh Tran

70 AsiaLIFE HCMC

Nguyen Du C4, D3, D4 Nguyen Hai Tu B4 Nguyen Hue D4, D5 Nguyen Huu Canh B2 Nguyen Huu Canh C5 Nguyen Huu Cau B3 Nguyen Khac Nhu E3 Nguyen Khoai F3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong B5 Nguyen Phi Khanh B3 Nguyen Sieu C5, D5 Nguyen Son Ha D2 Nguyen Tat Thanh E5 Nguyen Thai Binh D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc D3, E3, E4 Nguyen Thi Dieu D2, D3 Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, E1, E2 Nguyen Thong C1, C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien D2 Nguyen Trai D3, E2 Nguyen Trung Ngan C5 Nguyen Trung Truc D4 Nguyen Truong To E4, E5 Nguyen Van Cu E2 Nguyen Van Hai B3 Nguyen Van Lac B5 Nguyen Van Thu B4, C3, C4 Nguyen Van Troi B1 Pasteur C2, C3, C4, D4 Pham Hong Thai D2, D3 Pham Ngoc Thach C3 Pham Ngu Lao D3, D4, E3 Pham Viet Chanh B5 Pham Viet Chanh E2 Phan Dinh Phung B2 Phan Ke Binh B4 Phan Van Han B4, B5 Pho Duc Chinh D4, E4 Phung Khac Khoan C3, C4 Suong Nguyet Anh D2, D3 Tan Vinh E4 Thach Thi Thanh B3 Thai Van Lung C5 Thi Sach C5 Thu Khoa Huan D4 Ton Duc Thang C5, D4, D5, E4 Ton That Dam D4 Ton That Thiep D4 Ton That Tung D2, D3 Tran Binh Trong E1 Tran Canh Chan E2 Tran Cao Van C4 Tran Dinh Xu E2, E3 Tran Hung Dao D4, E2, E3 Tran Khac Chan B3 Tran Khanh Du B2, B3 Tran Minh Quyen D1 Tran Minh Quyen C1 Tran Nhan Ton E1 Tran Nhat Duat B3 Tran Phu E1 Tran Quang Dieu B1, B2 Tran Quang Khai B3, B2 Tran Quoc Thao C2, C3 Tran Quoc Toan B2, B3, B2 Tran Van Dang C1, C2 Truong Chinh C3 Truong Dinh C2, D3 Tu Xuong C2, C3, D2 Vinh Khanh E4, E5 Vo Thi Sau B3, C2, C3 Vo Van Tan C3, D2, D3 Vuon Chuoi D2 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh B4, B5 Yersin E4

Airport 3km

ng Ho Le

3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu B4, C3, C4, D1, D2, D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

A

Di en

Street Guide

2

Trai yen Ngu

DISTR

3

4

5

Gia Dinh Hospital

N

Ng .H uu

Ca u

oc Toa n

iS Th Vo

Tr an

Ng hia

Tru on g

TranQu

Ph am

DISTRICT 3 Le Q

u Sa hu nP e i B

en B Di a

Ng

Hu ye n

ran

Tra i

u r ie iT Ha

HCM City Boat Quay (for Vung Tau) Thu Thiem Tunnel

Ben

Van

n Do

i u Ha n Nh Doa

uo cH un g

an Ho

ie gD

u

Vung Tau

h

uye n

e

n ha tT Ta en uy Ng

Nh u g ian G Co

Cat Lai Ferry 9km

ep

o Ng

To

Ho n

Kh

cK Du

g on Tru Ng

Tru ng Co .

Ng

h an Kh

c Ba Co

i uo

nh Vi

H.

Hu e

nh Ca

Na m

hi . Ng H.H

ac

u Hu

V

u g Tr Con

Le Q

am Th

Ng

h Bin

De

Ho

Ng

Ng.

te et lm Ca

n rsi Ye

ai Th en y u Ng Ky C on

iB Th

m

Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km

nh hi cC Du

c Ho

am Th

an Tr

ng Hu

Xu

o Ca

a Nh

on

gG

uy en

M

Du

hie

a

Le Cong Kieu o Ph

ai Th De

iH Th Le

Ham Nghi

S

am

Ngo

n To

ac h

ng

p hie tT g Ton Th a an Kh c u Th nh Huy

i Lo Le

h

Th a

Do

Ng

ng . La L.V

o Da Bus tion ta

an Th Le

i Lo Le

Le

n Be anh t e Th ark M

g

oi

To Tha

hK

en uy g N

iV an Lu at ng u Q ieu a S B o Ng Ca

l al H n n h To w n

nT ru ng Tru c

l

Bin

cT ha n ng

t Da

n ye

TRICT 1

Din h

Trinh

Ba

ng Hu

Kh

on Tr

u Ma

u Ng an Tr

u Da Q.

Tra n

inh

Pham Hong Thai

Do

Cu yen Ngu

nN nA uye

Pa ste ur

an hT rin h

Th iS

m Da

Ng

H

Do ng

g

ye n

en ga uy g N Ng un Tr

ng Tu

Tam

n g ua on iX ieng Su h T Le Thi R ui B i To a nT i Kh ha Tra h tT Lu in yen un u on M gH Ng g i uu Le La Kh an Lao h Ngu Pham Cao Than g Binh Vien hai t Bu i CoT Marke ng Qu yn h

h nT

en uy

Tu Ly

.

T. T

Tha ng

Tu Ly

ng Tro

M

Du

o & Ga Bo rd tan en ic s a

n Va an Ph

Cultural Park

Kh

Po Cen H st tra ai Of l Ba fic Tru e n

an Du Le

a gh H ia

Ch u

Ho

h An

Th u

es od Rh

Du en uy g N Ng uy e

Co ng Ch ua

inh

e

To n

Zo Ng u

an Du

Le

ur

t ye

Lac

a Na ex m Al Ky Kh oi N

eu

ang

te HT

Ho levi V an sion g

te Pas

u Ng

n

eD dr

Hu Re-unification ye Palace nT

Cac hM

ien

ur

V

Tru on gD

hT

DISTRICT 1

n ua

an nT Va o V

Di

Ng oc Th ac h

War n Remnants n Ta Museum o Va

Gi aT hi eu

H St oa Di adiu Lu n m

ieu Ch

nh Di en y u Ng Ma cD inh Ch i an V o a C an Tr

on

uo cT ha o

uy en

iem Nh ng Th uo i an hQ H ho T ye ua n T Ngo n ho an ng Xu o H hi nT ye u Ng ieu Ch nh Di en

uy D

Pa ste

hu nT Va

e Vi Xo

h in eT h g tN

h Cu

an

Tra nQ

en uy Ng

Qu ye n

oc To an

ho i

au

m Ta n Va ark Le P

Qu

g

D.

Ng u yen Van

Va n

Cu a

aT run

h Tin

Me Linh

iB

ng uo Ph oc

i nh

Ha

Ma iT Ph hi Lu an u Ke Bin h

Ng

N

Huy n

n

Ky K

hT

Van

Hoang S a

Ng HaiTu

Khai Tran Quang Ng. Phi Khanh L. V. Ph uc

Tha ch T hi T han g n h ra T C.

Cuu

e uy Ng

N g u yen

c Chan

Duat

Hu yn

ai .H .V

yen

Pham Van Han

Truon g Sa

Nguy en D u

Du

Ngu

BINH THANH

ha Tran K

h Tran Khan

Vo Huy Tan

Huynh Man Dat

o

Tha Ton D ng u Mu c seu m

La

at Tran Nh

yen gu

Cu

Dinh Tien Hoang

Phan Xich Long

Do

an Van B

o

o Da

DISTRICT 4

District 7 & Nha Be

Streaks ($3.99) |

T

his handy and flexible system sets reminders for up to six tasks each day, and every time you complete a task, your ‘streak’ is extended.

You may choose to walk the dog, floss your teeth, eat an apple or learn Vietnamese, but if you forgo one of the habits, your streak will reset to zero days.

It’s a simple concept, but is a great way to encourage good habits with only a few gentle nudges.

Also, with the iOS Health app, Streaks can automatically track certain goals such as running five miles each day.

Forest ($1) |

F

ollowing the theme of productivity, the idea at the heart of Forest is that you plant a seed and watch it grow into a tree. You do this to avoid distractions.

The catch? If you can’t stand to be without Facebook or Twitter and decide to fiddle around with your handset, your lovely tree will wither and die.

It’s a clever, intuitive, and aesthetically pleasing way to make distancing yourself from distractions feel worthwhile.

Keep focused on your tasks and you’ll eventually end up with a satisfying forest of productivity as well as a bunch of nicely formatted statistics to pore over and share.

Music Memos (free) |

Crashlands ($4.99) |

Guides by Lonely Planet (free) |

Songwriters of all levels can start recording their stuff anytime inspiration strikes with this new app from Apple.

It helps record songs or short ideas (external microphone optional) and the user can add a virtual drummer and bassist, tag the clips to find them later and then export or share them.

After crash-landing on an alien planet, you have to forage for tools, battle wildlife and build your base while uncovering a gripping story.

It’s a crafting RPG that has turned out to be a real treat.

If you enjoyed games like Minecraft Pocket Edition then splash the cash.

Good quality travel content usually comes at a price, but this app transfers some of the city guides from its books to the small screen for free.

Dozens of cities are available, with maps that you can store offline. It’s also packed with tips and advice from on-the-ground experts.

72 AsiaLIFE HCMC

sound fix

KROM MANGO MADNESS (MUSIC VIDEO) Ahead of the launch of their third album Mekong Delta Blues, Phnom Penh-based Krom have released an animated music video from previous hit Mango Madness off their debut outing. The video is animated

by Australian Charlotte Bunt and adds colour to one of the best bands to come out of Southeast Asia. Famed for their classic blues with a modern noir twist, the song focuses on the seedier side of Phnom Penh and its girly bars, with the creepy vocals of Christopher Minko overlaying soothing instrumentals. In it, he describes a “landscape where anything goes as long as you have the money to pay”. It’s brutal, honest and uncomfortable viewing, and lyrically raises social questions from a band unafraid to tackle hard truths.

albuM review

bY Steve Noble

THE KING BLUES OFF WITH THEIR HEADS Nearly a decade ago, The King Blues were taking the UK music scene by storm with their mix of accessible groovy reggae/ska, folk and punk. The politicallyconscious band released acclaimed albums Under the

Fog, Save the World, and Get the Girl. The band however failed to capitalise and broke up in 2012.

In 2015 the band announced their return and have now unveiled a new EP, entitled Off With Their Heads. The seventrack EP is full of angst. “I’ve seen this government dropping bombs for peace, slashing benefits, turning venues and clubs into coffee chains, they detest us, they detest our way of life, they detest our right to live and exist in a way that may not benefit their pockets.” The record is the first to be released on the band’s Meatball Records, and the video for Off With Their Heads is available now.

CONRAD KEELY

PILLOWTALK (SINGLE)

The hype surrounding Zayn Malik’s departure from One Direction would only be surpassed by the hype surrounding his first release as a solo artist. And it seems his single Pillowtalk is riding high on worldwide charts, including English radio stations in Southeast Asia. The song has been well received, despite the explicit nature of the content and the subject of his relationship with supermodel Gigi Hadid. Inspired by the R&B he grew up on, Malik has been honing his craft, working with Wu-Tang Clan rapper Method Man and Malay, with a full album, Mind of Mine, due out this month. The groovy track with high pitched vocal breaks, still resonates of an ex-fabricated boy-band member but it’s a good pop single, ready-made for sensual dance floor moves, and has a great bass beat. If anything, the song is a tad over-produced but his legion of fans won’t mind. Lyrically, it’s not too innovative - more sex-soaked and slightly awkward.

74 AsiaLIFE HCMC

nd

i la

tha

ZAYN MALIK

as i a .c o li f m er a d

With a back catalogue stretching nine albums with band And You Will Know Us

By The Trail of Dead, frontman Conrad Keely has ventured into solo territory with his debut album Original Machines. Keely wrote most of the record while touring with the group and used the tour bus as a makeshift studio. The remainder of the record was written during his time in Cambodia. Keely also likes to paint and write, and plays piano, guitar, cello and drums, among other instruments.

Accompanying the solo record, Keely includes a 56-page book of original artwork, photography, lyrics and writing. With the assistance of producer Ben Lemelin, they have carved a multi-faceted album resulting in varying sounds and styles. A total of 29 tracks see Keely explore a path and expose his troubadour ways. Cambodian references are scattered, with Engines of The Dark inspired by the drinking scene in Phnom Penh. Kampot also features prominently in Drive to Kampot.

io

ORIGINAL MACHINES

AL, RADIO

By Prim.

Gig List

Coming up in March A sampling of Saigon's music scene

5

March, 10pm T R U S ’M E E LEC TR O @Observatory

6

March, 9pm T H E IR I ETO N E S @Cargo

9

March, 8pm A NIG H T O F G E RM AN M U SIC @HCMC Opera House

27

March, 9pm SAIG O N R E GG A E FE ST IVAL 4 @Cargo

HELL AND BACK Crazy rock n roll capers No. XXXXXIIIIVVIVI! Controversy, it seems, stems from the evolution of boredom, where the notion of clarity deliberates form from the debatable pendulum of historical dissension.

Was Van Gough pushed or did he jump? Did John Lennon own the first Penny Black stamp, and was Freddie Mercury the instigator of Arnie’s Terminator, where upon he moulded himself into the psyche of the common folks’ appreciation by being rock’n’roll’s true alchemist.

I’m not sure. But bearing gifts of disputation in bundles of anarchy were the Sex Pistols, who may have been the first band to publicly swear on TV and get away with it. On his deathbed, Sid Vicious obviously slipped a sly note to Kenny Everett urging him to carry on the mantle of controversy with his Sid Snot character. The note in turn made its way to Malcolm MaClaren, Sid’s manager at the time, yielding the overtone of anger to be billed as an energy and therefore letting the road rise with John Lydon (aka Johnny Rotten).

Meanwhile over in the land of Fat White Family; running the hellish business of disentangled post-punk, psycho-disco, unpredictability is clearly a pastime that sits well with the five-piece from Brixton, South London. Welded together via their bass driven world of being selfconfessed degenerate morons, the Songs for Our Mothers album dives into lyrics to be only discussed with Satan, extenuated by tunes designed to writhe with uncomfortable enthusiasm. Lead single Whitest

Boy On The Beach accomplishes this with unnerving ease. Frontman Lias Saoudi said a couple years ago, “If we’re the scariest band out there at the moment, it’s a truly tame time.”

I’m not sure I’d like to be stuck on the bus with them, but there’s plenty to prove their road to hell would be wildly entertaining.

On a lighter note…

Horace Bones a four-piece band from Melbourne who describe themselves as a “psychedelic garage nightmare”, have just released a new track titled Tarantula. It’s an impressively energetic piece with a gritty, punk, rock feel. It’s been a while since these guys released anything (2014), but 2016 is already off to a great start with this brilliant release. After touring throughout January and February, they are now ready to record a whole load of new material. Self-described as “blood drinking, acid hippies”, who, like bad 70s horror movies, named the band after an evil main character (Horace Bones). Loving this single and look forward to hearing more releases from these guys later in the year.

Which leaves us just enough time to mention Violent Soho’s new album Waco (Coloured Vinyl) and Damien Jurado’s Visions of Us On The Land (Secretly Canadian) both to be released on 18 March. Read more on www.asialiferadio.com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 75

Bradley Green ponders that bit of pain waiting behind every joyful experience.

HIGHS AND LOWS

O

h, what a week. It started with one of the most pleasant holidays I’ve had in quite a while, and ended with a big old kick in the chops.

That’s the story though, isn’t it? Got to take the rough with the smooth, you win some you lose some, and all the rest.

Well you know, that’s just not good enough. Not one bit.

I don’t want to win first place in the beauty pageant and then face plant a wasps’ nest 10 minutes later, or to be told my other half is pregnant, but pregnant with triplets. Can’t the moments after achievement or good news just be blissful? Ride the wave of contented ripples rushing over me: unlikely.

It doesn’t exactly seem fair, does it? As I mentioned at the start, I had a lovely, entertaining, and relaxing holiday, then only to arrive back in Saigon to find myself homeless! What, how did this happen? I only wanted to treat myself to a wee holiday, and this is how the

76 AsiaLIFE HCMC

universe reacts. Maybe I’ll be a little more apprehensive next time. They say bad things come in threes which is usually about right, yet I’m more concerned about the agony after the ecstasy; it catches you off guard in dramatic fashion.

Do we have to subject ourselves to this kind of nonsense?

I’m sure half of the bad stuff is out of our control, and only because someone else is holding all the cards. Is it too much to ask for a bit of preemptive respite for the future suffering that serves only to knock us off of our perch. I don’t think so. “Listen pal, the wedding went really smoothly, no family feuds, food poisoning, or bad weather. Now, if the honeymoon can be as pleasant as the wedding, I’ll happily do overtime at work, listen to my sisterin-law, clean out the drains etc.

Please, it’s only fair.”

However we all know it doesn’t work that way, besides, what would life be without the lows as well as the highs? (and I’m not writing this with the most positive frame of

mind, I’m not out of the woods yet). You wouldn’t be able to distinguish one moment to the next, making life nearly futile, well, in my eyes. Macabre view perhaps, but it seems logical.

So when things go your way in a meteoric fashion, don’t hesitate to celebrate, it’s your right! Run through town waving your arms, screaming at the top of your lungs, ecstatic with joy (there could be a point made that, it kind of feels that you’re asking for the inevitable gloom, although...). As you know, the big, ugly smirking grin of apathy will be eagerly waiting for you around the corner, conjuring mishaps and malice a plenty. Having been around the sun a few times now I can safely say that if did not feel the slightest twinge of trepidation after the high, then I wouldn’t be doing myself justice, or any favours. So immerse yourself in frivolous fun, but be aware of the sneaky party pooper.

CHANGE O

ne would never have guessed that a trip to the Antarctica was what started CHANGE. In 1997, the first Vietnamese woman to set foot onto the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coldest continent, through a UN mission to raise worldwide attention to global warming and melting ice caps. In its wake, the trip forever changed her life. She quit her lucrative marketing job to begin advocating for efforts mitigating climate change - an uncommon term for most Vietnamese then.

In 2013, this woman - Hong Hoang successfully registered a local NGO that specialized in campaigning for urgent environmental issues in Vietnam. She named the tiny organisation CHANGE, hoping its work would change and inspire more lives, just like the Antarctica trip had changed hers 16 years before.

CHANGE then soon launched the first wave of awareness campaigns across the country, exposing the public to the term climate change, and has since become the official national partner of the global grassroots movement 350.org. Its most current campaign called POWER UP calls for a switch in national energy direction from burning coal to investing in abundant renewable energy.

Expanding to cover another urgent environmental issue in Vietnam, in 2014 CHANGE launched the Stop Using Rhino Horn campaign. Highlighting keratin - the same protein that makes up both rhino horn and human nails, the campaign targets cancer patients, businessmen, celebrities and youths to spread better understanding and commitment in rejecting the usage of products from endangered species.

CHANGE is one of very few progressive environmental local NGOs operating in Ho Chi Minh City that mount extensive public campaigns. The tiny organisation attracts support from different demographics: youth volunteers staff large-scale fairs; institutions and agencies award crucial sponsorship packages; NGO networks provide collaboration and guidance; celebrities perform free of charge at music shows etc.

Appropriating this support has helped CHANGE foster immense strength in its communication strategies. Our small but dedicated team of CHANGE is committed to continue utilising this strength to fight for the environmental causes and bring justice to impacted communities.

Here at CHANGE, we are committed to a vision of a Vietnamese society where the public is thoroughly aware of urgent environmental and developmental issues, thus actively adopting sustainable lifestyles and business practises. We need all the support we can get to realise this mission.

Please do not hesitate to contact us if you think you can help.

Drop us a message at info@changevn.org or at facebook.com/CHANGEvn. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work together for a sustainable future!

By Binh Vuong, CHANGE development manager.

AsiaLIFE HCMC 77

- District 7’s Pitchers Bar and Grill presents -

Brainbuster trivia

Sách quảng cáo Responsible for Publishing:

NUMBERS 1. How many strikes does one need in order to achieve a perfect game in bowling?

2. What year saw the premiers of both “Gone With the Wind” and “The Wizard of Oz”?

3. How many bones are in the typical human body?

4. How many points is the pink ball worth in a game of snooker?

5. How many different letters are used in Roman numerals?

NGUYỄN THỊ THU HÀ Director - Editor in Chief

Editors: Lê Đắc Quang - Bùi Thị Nga Designed by: ASIALIFE ADVERTISING LIMITED COMPANY Cover & content by: Asialife Advertising Limited Company Information and Communications Publishing House 9/90 Nguy Nhu Kon Tum - Thanh Xuan - Ha Noi Printed 2000 copies, size 20,5cm x 27cm, at ITAXA Company

GEOGRAPHY 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

What body of water separates Australia and Tasmania?

What country’s independence in May of 1993 rendered Ethiopia landlocked?

After the Mekong, what is the longest river in Vietnam?

What country has the largest number of it’s citizens (96.9 percent) who identify themselves as Buddhist?

The Galapagos Islands are part of which country?

Address: 126 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3 Publishing permit No: 315 - 2016 /CXBIPH/4-16/TTTT. Publication decision No: 53/QĐ - NXB TT&TT dated on 26, Feb, 2016.

Copy right deposit in 2016.

ISBN: 978-604-80-1653-1 AsiaLIFE Advertising Limited 2 Street 11, Thao Dien Ward, District 2 For advertising and marketing enquiries please contact: +84 938 298 395 or adsales@asialifehcmc.com

FAMOUS PEOPLE 1. Who is the longest reigning heavyweight boxing champion? a) Mike Tyson b) Muhammed Ali c) Rocky Marciano d) Joe Louis e) Lennox Lewis f) George Foreman

For online advertising and video enquiries please contact: +84 903 325 543 or jonny@asialifemagazine.com Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633 283 (VN) +84 168 6830 250 (EN) AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © AsiaLIFE Advertising Limited

2. On July 21, 1972, which comedian was arrested for performing “Seven Words You Can Never Say on Television” in Millwaukee, Wisconsin? a) Lenny Bruce b) Richard Pryor c) Bill Cosby d) John Belushi e) George Carlin f) Don Rickles

1

3. Whose last words were, “Drink to me, drink to my health, you know I can’t drink anymore.”? a) Adolf Hitler b) Pablo Picasso c) Elvis Presley d) Charlie Chaplin e) Abraham Lincoln f) Billy The Kid

5

4. Philip Seymour Hoffman won the Academy Award for Best Actor, portraying which American author? a) Ernest Hemingway b) Nathaniel Hawthorne c) Mark Twain d) Truman Capote e) Tennessee Williams f) William S. Burroughs 5. Which of these entertainers has not achieved the elusive EGOT (Emmy, Grammy, Oscar, Tony)? a) Whoopi Goldberg b) Sir John Gielgud c) Audrey Hepburn d) Mel Brooks e) Rita Moreno f) Barbara Streisand

Code: KK 02 Sm16.

3

4

7

2 6

7 1

9

3

6

9

1

3

9

5

6

4

9

2

6

3

4

9 5

8

2

4

1

8

1

5

2 4

9

Numbers: 1: 12 - 2: 1939 - 3: 206 - 4: 6 - 5: 7 Geography: 1: Bass Strait - 2: Eritrea - 3: The Red River - 4: Cambodia - 5: Ecuador Famous People: 1: d - 2: e - 3: b - 4: d - 5: f

Pub Quiz Answers

78 AsiaLIFE HCMC

1

st

World School IB for students 2 to 18 years old in Ho Chi Minh City

100% 3 IB 17 ACCEPTANCE

PROGRAMS

YEARS

universities

Middle Years &

Diploma candidates

rate to overseas

IB Primary Years,

Diploma Program

Discover more at

www.ishcmc.com | +84 (8) 3898 9100

New IB Secondary Campus Launching Soon!

of graduating IB

SÁCH KHÔNG BÁN