AsiaLIFE HCMC 52

AsiaLIFE volume 52

www.asialifehcmc.com

20 front

08 News & Events 10 Dispatches

food

41 Cham Charm

Lan Ong Liechtenstein

style & design

16 Photo Essay: Flowers of the North

on the cover

20 The Adoption Dilemma

storyboard

26 Watching the Detectives

back

44 A Midsummer Night's Dream 50 The List 74 Spotlight 76 Street Guide 84 Odd One Out

28 Copy Culture

85 This Country Life 86 Pub Quiz

32 Portrait of an Artist 34 The Best Laid Plans 36 Laos Waterways

40 Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

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42 High Performance 48 Connoisseur: Jamon Iberico

30 Bringing the Noise

getaways

39 The Rusty Bucket 40 Pizza 4P's

11 Street Smart: Hai Thuong 14 Q&A with Prince Alfred of

38 Sterling's Saigon

42

note from the editor contributors Walter Pearson Walter Pearson is a journalist, documentary maker and tour guide. His connection with Vietnam goes back to his time in the Australian Army.

He has worked as a broadcaster and current affairs journalist covering general news, politics and economics. He first returned to Vietnam in 1989 to cover the dedication of the Long Tan Cross, and has led various types of tours throughout the country since 2000 through his company Monkey Bridge Tours. This Country Life, pg 85.

Brett Davis Losing and gaining, separation and reuniting, endings and beginnings; such is the stuff of our forward march in life. “Life is a leaving behind,” Linda Loman tells her husband Willy in Arthur Miller’s classic play Death of a Salesman. I never quite understood the odd syntax of the line until I saw the play for the first time and caught the little pause before the last two words. The effect is of spoken quotation marks around ‘leaving behind’.

Thoughts of this nature have been much on my mind in recent weeks for a number of reasons. Firstly because of our cover story this month on adoption, particularly inter-country adoptions and the legal framework designed to regulate it.

Vietnam has long been a country from which many children, separated from their parents for one reason or another, have been delivered to others offering a loving home. Losing and gaining.

However, as is so often the case, not everything is simple and even the best-intentioned (but still likely best) rules can have unintended and unfortunate consequences. The debate continues as to the best way forward on the issue, but it seems most parties have the best interests of children at heart.

The other reason my mind has lately drifted in this direction is my own separation of sorts. This will be my last issue at the helm of AsiaLIFE, and while excited at the challenges that await along a different path, it is with genuine sadness that I’ll relinquish daily involvement with the magazine.

In the last 18 months that I have been managing editor I have had the privilege to work with some great people, and I believe we have done some genuinely good work. It is not easy producing a publication like AsiaLIFE each month, and I think most people would be surprised to learn by just how small a staff and on what tight a budget it is achieved.

Any organisation is only as good as its people. I would advise all organisations to remember that.

Thank you to all my team, past and present, and most especially to all the supporters of this magazine. I am gratified to be continuing my association with AsiaLIFE, from a slight distance, as editor at large, so you have probably not heard the last of me yet.

Endings and beginnings.

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Jade Bilowol After working as a journalist and PR practitioner for a decade in Australia, Jade Bilowol jettisoned corporate life Down Under for HCM City's cheap street-side eats and scooters.

Despite her intentions to work less and take pleasure from the simple things, she soon found herself again working full-time and then some. She now lectures with RMIT University Vietnam's Professional Communication Program. A stint in hospital suspended her relationship with street food but she's slowly getting back on that wagon. Portrait of an Artist, pg 32.

072012 ISSUE67

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

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NEWS Nam Hai Adds Dash of Familiarity to Kitchen

Richard Wilson, a 20-year veteran of the hospitality industry, is now the executive chef at The Nam Hai, one of Vietnam’s premier seaside resort. Wilson joins The Nam Hai after spending three years in Oman overseeing the kitchen at The Chedi Muscat, another GHM-managed property. The New Zealand native follows in the footsteps of celebrity chefs Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsay, both of whom have been lured to the area in recent years by its gastronomic appeal.

As with all chefs who have come before him, Wilson has designs on changing The Nam Hai’s menu. But not overnight. His

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EVENTS first priority is to get to know his new team. Then he wants to find out what products are available locally and through importers.

For more information about The Nam Hai, visit www.ghmhotels. com.

of dry tea costs VND 190,000.

The Tearoom is located on the ground floor of YMC at 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Dist. 3 and is open Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm and on Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 5pm.

In addition to it's line of high quality Japanese and Chinese teas, Operation: Tearoom has added an Organic Vietnamese Green Tea to the mix. The tea is grown in the high mountains of Lao Cai where some tea trees are over 100 years old. It is produced by Dao minority farmers in A Mu Sung Commune. A pot of tea is VND 55,000 while 100g

Emirates, one of the world’s fastest growing airlines, has started a non-stop, daily service between Dubai and Ho Chi Minh City. With the start of flights to Vietnam, the airline’s eighth route launch of 2012, Emirates now operates to 13 cities in 10 countries in the Far East; opening up one of the most popular tourist destinations to the air-

Organic Vietnamese Tea Now at Operation: Tearoom

Emirates Launches Ho Chi Minh City Daily Service

line’s six continent wide network.

Visit theemiratesgroup.com for more details.

Skin Care Deals

Marianna skin care centre is offering a summer packages with up to 50 percent off certain treatments until 31 August. The Marianna medical laser skin care centre is located at 149A Truong Dinh Street, Dist. 3, HCM City. Visit en.marianna.com for details.

Internationa Management Programmes

The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) has launched its first management programs in partnership with the Australian Institute of Manage-

Meet ARC’s Pet of the Month, Hugo

ment (AIM), bringing some of AIM’s 70 years of experience to Vietnam for the benefit of Vietnamese managers. The first programs, to be delivered in July, are Front Line Management (9-11 July), Project Management Fundamentals (9-10 July), and Introduction to Human Resources (12-13 July), all key skills and competency development programs that can be built upon within organisations on a long-term ongoing basis.

Highly experienced Australian practitioners who will apply interactive and experiential learning methodology for maximum practical benefit will deliver the programs in English. In addition, from 23 July, the IMIV is offering workshops in Action Centred

Leadership (ACL) from Adair International Ltd. For more information visit imiv.org.

VietJetAir Signs with CyberSource’s

VietJetAir announced last month that it signed with CyberSource for payment services and fraud-management solutions to support its online ticketing services as the carrier looks to expand overseas. CyberSource, a Visa’s company, is one of the world’s largest providers of secure eCommerce payment management services. The installation of its payment services and fraud-management solution cements formal cooperation with VietJetAir, Vietnam’s only privately-held budget airline.

July’s pet of the month is Hugo, a two-year-old cat who has been neutered, vaccinated, de-flead and de-wormed. Hugo is very friendly, affectionate, talkative, cuddly and loves to spend time with people even though he used to be a stray. When he was rescued he was found with a big wound, most likely from a fight, and was in a lot of pain. However, since being rescued he has recovered fully and is ready for a home. His new family should preferably have a garden where Hugo could be an outside/inside cat. Hugo is the kind of cat that everyone falls in love and he has his own fan club already. He also gets along well with other cats. If you are interested in adopting him, contact arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

Ho Chi Minh City: 161 Dong Khoi street, District 1 ( Unit 1C, 1st Floor) Tel: 3.822 5034 Fax: 3.832 6941 email: hotline@rimowavietnam.com www.rimowa.com

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Reaching for the Sky Like many of Tokyo’s best luxury hotels, newly opened The Okura Prestige Bangkok is located in a skyscraper. It occupies the top floors of Park Ventures Ecoplex, a landmark building which draws its inspiration from the Thai traditional greeting (‘wai’) and the lotus flower. Not to be missed is the gravity-defying 25-metre infinity pool, anchored to the outside of the 25th floor and adjacent to the gym and spa, creating a dramatic oasis high above the city.

Guest accommodations are located above the 26th floor, offering spectacular views of Bangkok’s skyline. The Okura Prestige Bangkok is situated at the intersection of Wireless Road, known as ‘embassy row’, and Ploenchit Road, the city’s leading commercial district. For more information, visit okurabangkok.com or call 662 687 9000. – Ellen Boonstra

Golfing in Myanmar More than a century after the British colonized Myanmar–and brought with them the game of golf–the country’s premier hotel and course are teaming up on a deal they hope will help put Burma back on the world golf map. Until 30 Septemper, guests staying at The Strand Yangon can opt for the 'Tee Off in Style' package, which includes two nights' accommodation with daily breakfast, butler service, a dinner at the hotel's restaurant and a round of golf at Pun Hlaing Golf Club, a Gary Player design widely considered the top layout in the country.

Prices start at US $533 per person and include round-trip airport and golf course transfers in a private car. Opened in 1901 and managed by luxury hotel group GHM, The Strand remains one of the finest examples of Edwardian architecture in Southeast Asia. For more information visit ghmhotels.com.

Megadeth and Smashing Pumpkins in southeast Asia American thrash metal band Megadeth will rock Bangkok on 1 August at BITEC Banga. Tickets start at US $50 and can be bought at thaiticketmajor.com. Although Megadeth has had over 20 lineup changes since its founding in 1983, the band maintains its status as one of the most commercially successful metal bands of all time.

The Smashing Pumpkins began in Chicago in 1988 and has since won multiple Grammy awards and has been described as the definitive band of the alternative music era. Next month, they will be playing at the Araneta Coliseum in Manila, Phillipines on 7 August. Tickets start at US $15 for general admission and US $25 for box seats. Visit etix.com for more details.

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Alex McMillan gets a feel for one of Saigon’s Chinese-influenced areas on Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street in District 5.

Tea Shop 109 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street Anyone trekking across this street definitely needs to stop and get some Chinese tea.

With six different varieties, this small unnamed streetside teashop has many locals crowding around for some herbal respite. Drink it there or take it to go in a bottle for VND 10,000. Seaweed and Artichoke flavours are popular.

If you are feeling adventurous, the owner will drop some

acrid remedy for any and all ailments into your glass. The sample is free of charge just because she wants to watch your face when you taste how pungent it is.

Anh Linh Lanterns 206 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street A friendly shop with innumerable lanterns inspired by the ones found in Hoi An. There are so many different shapes and colours that you will be marveling over them for hours.

Prices are around VND 60,000 for a medium-sized lantern.

Thuan Ky Noodles 218 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street Get ready to go to heaven.

The noodles at this shop were nothing short of perfection.

All hyperbole aside, they serve a fantastic Chinese style of wheat noodles with fried wontons for 30,000 a bowl.

The shop is shrouded by trees, so look closely, as it is well worth a try. asialife HCMC 11

Hem Tong Duy Tan Enter by 234 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street Have you been wanting to work on your costume for next Halloween? Are you a drag queen with a tired wardrobe? Then check out this interesting alleyway. Each shop sells one thing true to the Vietnamese style; however, they have crazy things: googly eyes, shirt buttons, shoe laces, feathers, and much more. It’s so entertaining that even if you are not interested in becoming Liberace, you can

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still grab some banana che and window shop.

Pagoda Ong Bon 264 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street There are many temples in this area which makes this neighborhood quite interesting. This particular temple was under renovation when we visited; people were on scaffolding painting and polishing. Check back in early July to see the place spruced up.

Banh Xep Hong In front of 264 Hai Thuong

Lan Ong Street In front of the aforementioned temple, there are several carts which sell banh xep. It looks like a fried wonton pillow of meat, vegetables, with a quail egg stuffed inside. They are fantastic and cost VND 8-10,000 depending on how adept you are at haggling.

Hoang Van 272 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street Need something gold and decorative for your house?

There is clearly one place you must go: District 5. Lord Jesus.

Urns, wind chimes, pots, pans, everything you didn’t know that you had to have.

Quyen Trang 278 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street Like Hoang Van, but instead of metal decorations, this shop has every single kind of piping, tubing, and hosing you could ever dream of. It is nestled amongst several similar shops that are unmistakable: tall, colourful piping sticking out of buckets on the street, which act as these shops’ waving banners.

Meat Grinder & Scale Emporeums + Market 283 & 259 Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street and around In this general neighbourhood there are a lot of interesting shops that specialise in one thing and one thing only.

You’ll find places that sell countless different meat grinders, or perhaps you fancy an industrial scale? There are even shops that sell chemicals in bulk from large plastic containers.

Definitely an interesting stroll.

Keep walking in the area and you can find alleyways with

nothing but power tools and bags full of nails.

Trieu Quang Phuc Street It’s a bit unusual to list another street in Street Smart, but it is a definite visit for people who are wandering around in the area.

Trieu Quang Phuc Street intersects with Hai Thuong Lan Ong Street and has shop after shop of dried Chinese herbs. The aroma is amazing and a little overpowering. If you are not there to buy something to cure your health problems, you can see the oversized bags of curiosities.

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Prince Alfred of Liechtenstein Prince Alfred of Liechtenstein, the chairman of the International Peace Foundation advisory board, sits down with Chris Mueller to discuss the upcoming event series ‘Bridges – Dialogues Towards a Culture of Peace’, which will be held in Vietnam. The series will include up to 50 lectures, seminars, workshops and dialogues with Nobel Laureates, artists and celebrities from many fields with the aim of promoting and developing peace throughout the region. Photo by Fred Wissink.

What do you hope to accomplish with the ‘Bridges’ program?

We are looking to promote peace. We feel that dialogue between cultures, dialogue between nations, dialogue between human beings is the key to coming to a better mutual understanding and to build up relationships. Then from there peace can happen. We are here to assist different institutions and organisations in Vietnam and also individuals to get into a dialogue with well-known speakers, mainly Nobel laureates of different fields, but also politicians and artists.

Why is southeast Asia the focus of the discussions?

Southeast Asia is a very important part of the world from different points of view. If you study the World Wealth Report you see that the number one region of people with the most millionaires in the world has now become Asia and also the economies in Asia are becom-

ing more and more important.

There is of course a major focus on China and we feel that it’s important to foster dialogue here because it’s quite clear for many people who observe the global situation that potential conflict between the United States and China might occur in the near future. China is predicted to surpass the economic power of the United States and also later on probably the military power and therefore we feel the countries here in southeast Asia, like Vietnam for instance, have an interesting role to play to be bridges in the dialogue between the western world and China.

Why has Vietnam been selected to host the series?

This has been an ongoing series for a number of years.

We started in Thailand then we went to the Phillipines, then to Malaysia, then Cambodia, now Vietnam. The next ones will be in Singapore, Indonesia, Laos and Brunei. We are doing

all the ASEAN countries in the order that we are invited by the governments of these countries.

How will this program affect the lives of Vietnamese and the country as a whole?

Since the speakers are of high profile, there will be a lot of reports in different media and most of the events are public so they are open to whoever is interested in listening. The more private conversations between the guest speakers and the politicians and the different institutions in the country will also assist in bringing forward all the features you like to have in a country, like assisting young people to get a better education.

How has ‘Bridges’ helped other countries in the past?

Other countries and people who attend universities in these countries were able to use the option that these high-profile speakers offer to establish a

mutual exchange program, like student exchange programs for instance, and establish joint research projects. Some of the speakers were invited back as visiting professors at these universities.

Do you think the discussions will bring any significant change to the region?

It’s very difficult to measure the impact because we don’t have a research program going on, but a number of institutions, organisations and countries in general have profited from the program. Some of the results range from more academic cooperation to scientific research to humanitarian aide and protecting the environment to cultural exchange programs.

We hope we will do even more in the future.

‘Bridges’ will take place from November to April in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. For more information visit peacefoundation.net. asialife HCMC 15

- PHOTO ESSAY -

The north is a different place. Wild and chaotic. Within this rustic place its people and its flora take on the attitude of their surroundings.

The beauty of the place lies both in the grand landscapes and the smallest bud on a tree.

Subtle colours and shapes compete and contrast with towering mountains, and yet, the little northern flowers hold their own.

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Photos by Fred Wissink.

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There is no human bond stronger than that between a parent and their child. As any adoptive parent will tell you, the lack of a biological connection in no way diminishes this bond. In the last four decades many thousands of children from Vietnam have been adopted by people in other countries. Children who may otherwise have faced a life of deprivation and uncertainty instead found loving homes, and parents were able to nurture a child they might never have been able to have. However, there has been an everincreasing demand for adoptions in western countries, and places like Vietnam have been a popular source of children to meet that demand. This has at times lead to questionable practices by some involved in both sides of the adoption process. It is an emotionally charged issue, and the international rules meant to regulate the adoption process and protect both children and parents, which Vietnam recently signed-on to, have also meant that fewer Vietnamese children are finding new homes in other countries.

By Brett Davis. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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“The goals of the Hague Convention

are to establish safeguards ensuring international adoptions take place in the best interests of the child ”

T

he Vietnamese Diaspora has spread to almost every country on the globe.

This has been the product of many factors, a significant one of which has been the adoption of Vietnamese children internationally. Particularly since the American War, many thousands of Vietnamese children have been adopted overseas. A large proportion of these children have gone to the United States, but also to countries such as France, Italy, Canada, Sweden, Ireland and Denmark among many others. On average, over a thousand children have been adopted from Vietnam each year in the last decade, rising to a peak of more than 1,600 a year in 2007 and 2008. Since the late 90s, as demand from prospective parents in developed countries has steadily risen, Vietnam has consistently been one of the most popular ‘source’ countries in the world.

There have been peaks and troughs over the years and the processes for adoption with22 asialife HCMC

in Vietnam have not been without troubles. In order to centrally regulate inter-country adoptions the government set up the Department of International Adoptions, part of the Ministry of Justice, in 2003. Bilateral agreements on adoption were subsequently entered into with a number of countries. These ‘receiving’ countries were then able to authorise agencies to undertake adoption activities in Vietnam.

However, this system was still problematic and several countries, notably the United States, Ireland and Sweden did not renew their bilateral agreements. Indeed, the US has had a moratorium on all adoptions from Vietnam since 2008, after investigations by its embassy alleged cases of bribery, fraud and coercion in the procurement of children for adoption.

An example cited in a Unicef report in 2010 was that of 16 people convicted in Nam Dinh province for receiving bribes and forging documents in relation to 266 Vietnamese children

between 2005 and 2008 to meet the demand of the foreign adoption market. Despite this kind of action by local authorities there were enough reports of similar cases for the flow of adoptions from Vietnam to be tightened considerably.

The New Ground Rules The Hague Convention on Protection of Children and Co-operation in Respect of Intercountry Adoption is the rather long-winded name for the international agreement generally known as the Hague Adoption Convention.

Drawn up in 1993, the goals of the document are to establish safeguards ensuring international adoptions take place in the best interests of the child and with respect for their fundamental human rights.

In effect this means establishing central bureaucracies to manage the adoption process, undertake adequate investigations into a child’s eligibility for adoption and to ensure

“In any human undertaking of a certain

scale there will always be irregularities, but that should not be cause to discontinue adoptions”

unethical practices such as paying parents to relinquish their children have not occurred.

Unicef has worked closely with Vietnamese authorities over the last several years to assist in the country’s ascension to full member status of the convention. As mentioned, a central adoption authority was established and Vietnam’s national assembly passed a new adoption law in June 2010, the same year it signed the Hague Convention. A year later the government ratified the convention and it became a full member in February this year.

At the time of the ratification in December 2011 Unicef’s Vietnam representative Lotta Sylwander said it was, “a formidable step forward in ensuring that inter-country adoption is pursued in conformity with the standards and principles of international legislation requiring any placement decisions to be in the best interests of the child”.

Yet there has been a difference in views as to what is in the best interests of children

eligible for adoption in Vietnam. There is also a degree of separation on how various countries have applied the convention both within their own borders and to other states their citizens adopt children from.

There were hopes that once Vietnam became a full member of the Hague Convention that adoptions to the US might resume.

This proved a false dawn, with a statement released only days later, on 6 February, stating the US State Department had determined Vietnam had, “not proven capable of meeting its obligations” under the convention. The government of Ireland on the other hand, which also placed a moratorium on adoptions from the country, has indicated it will look at re-opening adoption links with Vietnam.

Whose Best Interest?

It is the use of the Hague Adoption Convention as a reason for shutting down international adoptions from some countries

that has some questioning if the rules do in fact serve the best interests of children who might otherwise find loving homes. The argument being that holding a country’s system to an unrealistic standard condemns many more children to an institutionalised life where they are exposed to greater risk of things like health problems or falling victim to sex trafficking.

One such critic is Harvard Law professor Elizabeth Bartholet who, along with being an adoptive mother herself, has been working in the field of adoption advocacy for over 30 years. She says while people who engage in illegal practices should be punished, the Hague Convention rules have been used as an opportunity by those ideologically opposed to inter-country adoption to curtail the practice. As an example she singles out Unicef for what she believes is their relegation of inter-country adoption behind other solutions in the child’s country of origin. asialife HCMC 23

“They will talk about things like familybased care, in-country foster care, adoption in-country, and they never mention international adoption, and if they do, well, it’s to be considered a last resort,” she says.

Bartholet says she believes that in any human undertaking of a certain scale there will always be irregularities, but that should not be cause to discontinue adoptions because all corruption cannot be weeded out of the system. She says policy makers are not really paying attention to the rights of children because they are not adequately considering the harm that can be done when international adoptions are shut down.

“Everyone in this debate says they are interested in the children, but I think if that were the case they would come up with different policies,” she says.

Another argument often raised in support of freeing up international adoptions is that more children will otherwise spend longer periods in institutional care. Absolute numbers are difficult to pin down, but in 2007 the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs estimated there were 168,000 orphans or children deprived of parental care in Vietnam, with some 20,000 living in public or private care facilities.

Even at the height of international adoptions from Vietnam, only a small percentage of children would have the opportunity to escape that existence to a life with a new family in a new country.

The Facilitators One sector suffering under the stricter regime is adoption agencies in receiving countries. With fewer children available for adoption many are going out of business, particularly in North America. However, among long-established operators there is support for the Hague Adoption Convention.

Pearl S. Buck International (PSBI) has been working with disadvantaged children in Vietnam since the late 1960s, and continues 24 asialife HCMC

to support health, nutrition and education programs in many care facilities in the country. They have also facilitated more than 150 adoptions of Vietnamese children in that time.

The organisation’s CEO Janet Mintzer says she is a supporter of the Hague Convention. “We are very happy about the convention and happy the US is a part of it so providers have to meet certain standards so only ethical agencies will facilitate adoptions in the US.” Mintzer recalled how another agency, also in their home state of Pennsylvania, was a few years ago arranging the adoption of several hundred Vietnamese children a year.

“It was very surprising to me,” she says of the years before the bilateral agreement between the two countries lapsed.

This is the other side of the coin that needs to be remembered in the adoption discussion. International adoptions are as much driven by demand as other factors, and some agencies in developed countries have not always acquitted themselves well.

“When we met with adoption officials in Vietnam, we strongly encouraged them to limit the number of agencies,” Mintzer says.

She adds that should Vietnam again open up to adoptions to the US they would like to be involved, although she believes the US government will continue to take a ‘watch

and see’ approach on the issue to gauge the level of enforcement of the Hague Adoption Convention in Vietnam.

“We would like to continue to help children who are eligible for adoption rather than have them live for a very long time in orphanages,” she says.

Adoption is such a personal, emotionallycharged thing, yet when it crosses borders it also becomes an issue of national interest and broader legal entanglement. Hopefully amongst all the geo-political debate over the issue, everyone involved will find the right balance between safeguarding the process while helping as many needy children as possible live the life they deserve.

A Mother’s Story There were echoes of history repeating for Lorie Carnie when she adopted her daughter from Vietnam. As an infant Carnie had been aboard the infamous ‘Operation Babylift’ flight in 1975 that crashed soon after takeoff from Saigon’s Tan Son Nhat airport.

She was one of the lucky ones to survive and was ultimately adopted by a family in the United States.

Twenty-five years later, after having three boys of her own, she decided to adopt a little girl from Vietnam. She never expected the daughter she christened Mia, would have her own dramatic false start on her journey to a new life.

“I always knew I wanted to adopt myself. It was a dream for me even when I was young,” Carney says. So in September of 2000 she started the process, and by the end of October the following year she was taking part in the official ceremony at the orphanage in Ha Nam province where little Mia officially became her daughter.

Things started to go awry a few days later when they went to the US consulate in Ho Chi Minh City to process the necessary paperwork for Mia’s visa. “They were asking me a lot of questions, and it probably didn’t help that I’m Vietnamese,” Carnie says. “I think they thought I traded her for money.”

Mia was denied a visa to the United States and Carnie’s world went into a tailspin. After making no headway in Vietnam she decided her only option was to seek legal assistance back in the US. This meant making the agonising decision to leave Mia

behind. After organising care for her daughter, Carnie departed on 28 November. “I was heartbroken, but I was also driven,” she says of her feelings at the time.

Once back in the States she was on the go almost around the clock, working on Mia’s case through the night and being available to her three young boys during the day. “I slept when they were napping, but no, there wasn’t much sleep for me at the time.”

A decision to make a personal appeal to the immigration official handling the case instead of sending in the lawyers proved pivotal. “I said to him that if Mia really doesn’t belong to me and there is another woman out there that does want her then that is what I want.” She continued pleading her case saying, “I want to do what is best, if you know there is a family out there that wants her back, then I am going to bring her back. But, if you know that there is not a family out there who wants her, then let her stay with me.”

On Christmas Eve, Carnie received the call that her appeal had been successful. Her immediate response was one of tremendous relief, but also overwhelming exhaustion. “Before, I think adrenaline and the drive was keeping me going, and then when I got the notice the exhaustion really took over.”

On 7 January 2002, after one of the most trying experiences imaginable, Lorie was waiting at the airport in Los Angeles when Mia arrived at her new home.

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Chris Mueller discovers that maybe we should all be a little more paranoid of people with cameras in the street. They could be tourists or they could be part of Vietnam’s huge network of private detectives waiting for you to slip up.

Photo by Fred Wissink.

The discreet white sign hanging off a first floor balcony on a building down a small but busy street in HCM City’s District 1 gives little clue to what business it’s advertising. The printed red letters on the sign only say “T&T”, which I assumed had something to do with the Vietnamese words Tham Tu Tu, or private detective. The only other thing on the sign was a phone number, the last six digits of which were 007 007.

When Mr Huy unlocked the gate to the building he gave me a quick look and immediately asked for some sort of ID, so I gave him my business card which seemed to satisfy him enough. He motioned for me to enter and we walked through a nearly pitch-black, narrow corridor, brushing against filthy walls as we made our way to the stairs.

Once in his office, Huy seemed to relax a little bit as he settled down into his oversized, plush leather chair and looked at me across his massive desk waiting for me to begin the conversation. I asked him what his job was and in the painfully awkward 30 seconds of silence before he answered I glanced around at the room. Lining nearly every wall, and piled on every surface, were glass bottles of rice wine stuffed with either large lizards, maggotlooking bugs I assumed were silk worms, and coiled snakes.

The bottles were everywhere, dozens of them, from tiny flasksized ones to huge containers half as big as an oil drum.

The only wall that was void of bottles was instead lined with hundreds of books, most in Vietnamese and many leather bound. The whole scene gave me a feeling of being trapped inside some sort of mad scientist’s workshop where he preserved his experiments. Huy must have noticed me looking

at all the bottles and explained, “They make me strong.”

I laughed and the conversation began. Huy is one of a seemingly endless number of private investigators in HCM City. If you google, “private detective”, “tham tu tu” or a combination of the two you get hundreds of companies advertising their detective services; everything from the typical cheating partners to missing persons and even genetic assessments. Huy tells me that these companies operate both legally and illegally but I was never able to get a clear answer as to whether private investigators were legal in Vietnam, full stop.

There are also several highly professional foreign-run investigation services that work more on the corporate side of things.

These companies tend to take on cases like background checks of potential business partners, customers and competitors as well as insurance claim investigations and record verification. Although some of these companies I tried to get a foot in the door with have swanky offices in downtown District 1, they seem to operate with a high degree of secrecy. Security nearly threw me out of one office when I asked the secretary if I could interview a detective. I even asked nicely.

Huy, however, seemed to be a PI straight out of central casting, the kind we read about in books and see in movies. He began his business 10 years ago when he retired from the police force, which he said he couldn’t give more details about since he was part of a highly secretive unit.

While I had my doubts about his prior service, it was clear from Huy’s size that he would have no problem handling himself if things got rough. At 37, he has the round protruding stomach of man doing well

for hiimself, but his gorilla-like arms remind you it is probably best to stay on his good side.

Though I wondered how people don’t notice him while he lurks around with a camera.

Huy says that on a general day he and his employees handle about 30 customers, which are charged about VND 1.5 million a day. He says he mainly handles infidelity cases but also does things like background checks and insurance investigations.

He told me one story about a man who by all appearances had the perfect life. However the man had a nagging suspicion his newborn son wasn’t his own, so he hired Huy to follow his wife who was found to be having an affair. In despair, he askd Huy to perform a DNA test, which he makes sure to mention cost five times the normal price so it could be done in one day. The child turned out to be illegitimate, but the husband decided to raise it as his own anyway.

From there the stories became pretty typical, cheating spouses, gold-digging partners and the like. Huy says that in a typical investigation they do things straight out of a 1950s detective novel; they follow their target with cameras, sneak into businesses and lurk around homes.

He says they even use female detectives to ‘befriend’ their targets.

After a few more stories, Huy offered me some shots of his rice wine, pouring it out of a bottle that thankfully didn’t have any animals in it. We had drunk a few shots before he lead me half-stumbling down the stairs. As I stepped squinting out into the street and shook Huy’s hand I couldn’t help but think I had found my new job.

Drinking at 11am and following people with cameras, I couldn’t see that going wrong.

Copy Culture

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Counterfeiting and software piracy has become so commonplace in Vietnam that many here look at it as a legitimate business practice, but fail to see how it is impacting the economic growth of the country. By Chris Mueller. Illustration by Mai Anh Nguyen.

It’s difficult to walk through any market or shop in Vietnam without seeing copied products. From Nike sneakers to CDs and DVDs, the scale of counterfeiting and pirating here is enormous and only seems to be growing.

The problem isn’t only limited to clothes and software. An increasingly more sophisticated network of counterfeiters and distributors have planted roots throughout Vietnam and neighbouring countries and are copying everything from medicine, motor oil and liquor to electrical components and concrete.

Over the past 17 years, trade between the United States and Vietnam has soared from US $17.5 million in 1994 to over US $20 billion in 2011, at the same time counterfeiting and software piracy has also taken off in Vietnam, according to the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam. AmCham also estimates that Vietnam has one of the highest piracy rates in the world, at 83 percent.

Although foreign investment and trade is on the rise, many companies are reluctant to do business or invest in Vietnam unless they can ensure the intellectual property rights of their technology or brand is safe.

This raises the question, why is the practice here so rampant and how will Vietnam be able change so they can better compete with the rest of the world?

Counterfeiting and piracy is trademark and copyright infringement under intellectual property (IP) rights law, which

generally refers to laws that protect creations of the mind, including inventions, artistic works as well as symbols, names, images and designs used in commerce.

When Vietnam joined the World Trade Organization in 2007 it immediately became part of an agreement that requires all members to adhere to a certain standards that protect IP rights and Vietnam does fully comply, if only minimally.

On paper Vietnam’s IP laws are similar to any western country, says Nguyen Van Vien, an intellectual property lawyer for the Frasers Law Company in Ho Chi Minh City. He also adds that getting a copyright or trademark here is a straightforward and fairly inexpensive process.

The problem doesn’t so much lie with what’s on paper, but rather with enforcement.

For the authorities there is little incentive to enforce the laws since in many instances of IP rights violations administrative fines are given, but they tend to be very low, says Thomas J. Treutler, partner and managing director of Tilleke & Gibbins Vietnam. Because the fines are not much of a deterrent, he adds, IP infringers are usually repeat offenders and it becomes uneconomical for the authorities to act against them.

Another argument is that many Vietnamese in general simply have not been educated about IP rights infringement.

Counterfeiting and piracy is so commonplace, even among some state-owned companies,

that many think it is a legitimate business practice. Counterfeiting also tends to be an inexpensive process with little overhead.

“Copying is the easiest way to have short-term success,” says Vien. “The majority of people don’t have financial or human sources for creation, so they have to copy to have profit.”

Gregory Buhyoff, an intellectual property lawyer who has worked in Vietnam for nine years and is on the European Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam's intellectual property rights committee, says changing the Vietnamese mindset to one that respects IP rights and products of the mind will not only inspire young Vietnamese to spend the time to create and innovate, but also encourage foreign companies to invest in the country.

While counterfeiting things like clothing and pirating software really only does immediate harm to the company that holds the trademark, many argue Vietnam’s copy culture will damage the country economically in the long run. However, counterfeiting certain products does put the public at risk.

There have been many cases where counterfeit products like pharmaceuticals and medical equipment, often coming from China, have endangered lives and livelihoods. Buhyoff recalls one instance where a well-known marine motor oil was being counterfeited and widely sold. Vietnamese fishermen would buy the low-quality counterfeit for their boats only

to have it destroy their engines leaving them stranded out at sea or without a way to financially support themselves.

Counterfeiting also has a global impact, most notably in the connection it has with organised crime. While the link is difficult to quantify, the United Nations and the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development estimated in 2009 that over US $250 billion of counterfeit goods are traded internationally each year. Much of this profit is used to finance other crimes like human and drug trafficking.

Buyhoff argues that while the harm IP infringement can do to consumers is important to address, the long-term economic damage it does is often overlooked. He says that in order to compete many in the Vietnamese government are trying to promote an economy based on higher quality products rather than cheap labour, which is what attracted many foreign investors to Vietnam in the first place.

But in order for this to happen the Vietnamese workforce needs proper training and equipment from foreign companies, many of which say they will not license their best technology to Vietnam without being sure their IP rights will be protected.

“This isn’t just about protecting the rights of foreigners,” Buhyoff says. “It’s about inspiring the creativity of the Vietnamese themselves and a culture of innovation and economic growth.”

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Saigon-based expat band Brett Newski and the Corruption talk to Michael Tatarski about what brought the band together and the recording of their first album. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Brett Newski and the Corruption are a breath of fresh air to Saigon, adding some much needed originality to the city’s live music scene. The threeman act consisting of American lead singer and guitarist Brett Newski, Canadian bassist Jeff Gantner, and British drummer Matt Green formed late last year and since then they have played live, recorded an album in Saigon and are now on a US tour.

Newski, the de facto band leader, came to Vietnam last October after wandering around Asia for six months with his guitar. He would play at house gigs in exchange for a room and used his experiences as inspiration for lyrics.

After arriving in Saigon he met Green while playing solo, and they decided to start jamming together. The third piece of the puzzle became involved thanks to Green, who has lived here for about a year and knew Gantner since their wives happen to work for the same company.

After playing some covers together they realised they had chemistry and decided to formalise what they were doing by giving themselves a name.

Newski jokes that he chose ‘corruption’ because Green and Gantner are older and act as a bad influence on him.

At first the group worked with material that Newski had written during his travels. “I had compiled about 100 songs in three to four years, so we saw what worked and what didn’t,” Newski says.

They then began writing their own material as a band, and soon realised they were in the perfect place to take their time and create good music.

“You never have time in America, you’re always working a full time job so you take the first 10 songs you write and you record them,” says Newski.

Here there are fewer financial concerns, allowing them to pursue a slower pace and craft songs they are happy with.

Gantner adds that life as an expat in Vietnam is full of inspiration and those experiences are easy to carry over into their music.

After a few months of playing together they had several songs ready to go and began recording their first album, Saigon at Night. The recording process took a matter of hours, extremely quick by any

standard. Green recorded his drums in an actual studio, while Newski and Gantner tracked the vocals, guitar, and bass at a house using equipment brought back from the US. Newski in particular says he enjoyed making the album. “It’s so much more fun to do it at someone’s house where there’s space and you can order some banh cuon or whatever and take your sweet time.”

All three musicians are proponents of no frills, guitaroriented rock, and they had no interest in using any of the electronic tweaks that so many singers and bands utilise in modern music. As a result the album is, “a pretty raw recording of what we sound like playing in a room,” says Gantner.

Though the band was quick to add that the songs were professionally mastered in the UK, so they do sound good.

Before completing Saigon at Night, the Corruption made their live debut at Yoko.

“People came up and said they had never seen an original band in Saigon,” says Newski. “It was a big relief, very inspiring, and put some fuel in the tank. It was a good start.”

Last month they put on a

lively performance at the Hard Rock Cafe to celebrate the release of their album, and this month they will be touring in the US, but all three plan to make Saigon their base camp as they work to increase their exposure.

They say Saigon is a good place to be since more regional music festivals are starting to appear and there seems to be a burgeoning art scene while still being somewhat of a blank canvas, especially in terms of original music. The group hopes to be able to work with other members of the local scene at some point. “It would be nice to see more bands here creating their own music, because there are a lot of brilliant musicians,” says Gantner.

The band will be releasing more songs through their website in the next few weeks, and once they finish touring in support of Saigon at Night they plan on returning to the city towards the end of September and have no plans of leaving anytime soon. Many Saigon residents, both foreign and local, are hungry for original music, and Brett Newski and the Corruption seem eager to help fill that void. asialife HCMC 31

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Portrait of an Artist Artist Helene Kling does what she loves, juggling painting professionally with teaching and motherhood. She talks to Jade Bilowol about her departure from the typical work-life balance and notching up 16 years in Vietnam. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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At 5.30am, Helene Kling rises with the rest of HCM City. As the sprawling metropolis’s streets and sidewalks increasingly brim with activity, Helene’s daily routine also unfolds at a solid pace.

After breakfast with her husband Krister, whom she first met in Vietnam 14 years ago, she gets their son Norman, 11, ready and takes him to school.

Helene zips back to her District 2 home by 7.45am for a 30minute jog through Thao Dien.

“During this jogging time I get new ideas and realise inspirations,” the 48-year-old says. “I build paintings and projects in my mind.”

Helene then gets down to business. She paints throughout the day, until it’s time to collect Norman from school, and sometimes continues painting into the evening. Helene also conducts art workshops for adults and children several days a week at her art studio on the top floor of her home. “As my job is my passion my daily life is an interesting balancing act between painting and the rest of my life,” she says.

Helene moved from her native France to Vietnam in 1996 to help international skincare giant Thalgo Cosmetics kick-start a distribution and training hub.

“I jumped at the opportunity,” she admits. “I didn’t know how to change my life in France anymore. I wanted to be on the rails and leave a point and see where I would end up.”

Cosmetics gave way to her professional painting career that began in 1999. Her vibrantlycoloured works–depicting quintessential Vietnamese settings in bold, daring brush strokes–have since featured in a long list of exhibitions.

Vietnam’s smorgasboard of subjects feature prominently in Helene’s work. A sea of motorbikes; shacks lining the Saigon River’s banks set before a couple of towering highrises; blazing green rice fields; lotus flowers floating atop an idle lake’s surface.

“Asia is an inspirational region for me because of the lights, shadows and colours you find in the different shades of

green, the sun and the sunsets but also in the smiling faces with eyes reflecting life,” she says. “Through my paintings people can sense the soul of Vietnam and my love for this country. Vietnam has an ever changing beauty that makes it so special.”

Vietnamese women are a constant in her paintings. “My paintings are figuratives, following the evolution of Vietnam and its women.”

In addition to her commissioned works Helene also paints for charity, donating auction items. She has thrown her support behind Operation Smile, a not-for-profit organisation providing reconstructive facial surgery. “Operation Smile heals the faces of children and young adults and gives them back the gift of a smile, which I consider one of the most beautiful and meaningful ways in which a surgeon can practice his art – the art of healing,” she says.

Art has always coursed through Helene’s blood. One of her earliest memories is drawing on the table at her grandparents’ small Brittany house during summer while her parents were away working.

“My brother and I would draw ‘everything’ on the table to send to my mum and dad in Paris,” she says, recalling life at the tender age of five.

While art was always an obvious path to Helene, her mother pressed her into piano lessons as her great-grandfather

was a pianist. “I wasn’t very good at it, I have no sense of hearing ... I was often drawing while he was playing the piano.”

As a teenager she also excelled at chemistry, prompting her father to stonewall her dream of attending the prestigious Beaux Arts school in Paris. “At this time, art had a bad reputation,” Helene remembers. “My father had the idea I would be with students who were not very good at anything or smoking pot.”

However her father promised her evening painting and drawing lessons if she studied chemistry by day. She obliged, gaining a science degree.

Helene later studied at the University of Paris’ School of Arts and Cosmetics in the early 80s before working in cosmetology for 13 years – the industry that brought her to Vietnam.

There are days when creativity on demand can be challenging but she’s found perseverance, discipline and doing what you love pay off.

“There are some days when the inspiration is here, some others where there is nothing but I know I must try everyday.

I am never out of ideas and never tired of painting,” Helene insists.

She loves teaching art in her adult and children’s workshops – something she has been doing for a decade.

“I love to be with people, give them my passion, and share a

good time with them … I have to speak but not tell, I have to inspire art not only teach art.”

Helene likens learning how to paint to learning how to read.

“Syllable by syllable, small sentences and bigger ones, enrich your vocabulary, and then after six years, you read without reading. Your mind by experience reads or guesses half of the words – it’s the same with painting. You need experience to put everything on the canvas,” she says.

“Helene is a fabulous artist and her painting lessons allow us to relax and open our mind to the outside world,” student Felicie Andriot Bergerot has written in Kling’s recent book Art Beat for Vietnam, which showcases her paintings and includes insights about her workshops, her friends and her personal life.

Helene describes herself as sensitive, moody, tempered and a perfectionist, yet also a lover of life with a positive attitude.

She says she is overprotective and authoritarian with her children. She and her husband have a total of five children as they each already had two children when they met.

“I never learn how to say no, even if I am trying hard,” she also admits.

Helene packs as much into her day as possible, heeding her motto: “Achieve what you can today because you never know if you can achieve it tomorrow.”

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Photos by Chris Mueller

The Best Laid Plans Chris Mueller finds out that sometimes a failed road trip can be more memorable than a successful one.

M

y clothes are soaked with sweat as I push my motorbike through the nearly deserted highway that cuts through a steamy mangrove forest south of Ho Chi Minh City. Reggae blasts out of my headphones as the sun beats down on my reddening skin. I continue walking down a long stretch of road, the kilometres ticking away on my odometer, and try to remember how far the nearest motorbike repairman is. How did this seemingly simple road trip go so wrong?

My goal was to go from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau, taking Huynh Tan Phat Street in District 7 south through Nha Be and to the mangrove forest of Can Gio. I had heard that from the Can Gio peninsula

34 asialife HCMC

you could hop on a small fishing boat that takes people and motorbikes across the bay to Vung Tau. I would spend the night in Vung Tau then loop back around to Saigon taking the scenic route through farm land and rubber plantations along route 25b.

In theory it should have been an easy drive with some decent scenery and a relaxing afternoon and night in Vung Tau. But it didn’t quite go to plan.

The first sign of trouble began as soon as I got out of Nha Be and onto the ferry to Can Gio. As I sat on my bike packed into a tin can of a ferry I could see the dark clouds of the monsoon behind me.

Soon after I got off the ferry and jostled with other bikes up the shaky ramp with no guard-

rails, the road opened up and traffic became virtually nonexistent. The dusty congestion of Huynh Tan Phat turned into a brand-new six-lane highway flanked by salt and fish farms.

With the clouds darkening behind, I threw my bike into fifth gear and opened up the throttle. After 10 kilometres I crossed over a bridge and into the Can Gio Biosphere Reserve, a 76,000 hectare protected mangrove forest. About halfway through the mangroves the rain started and within minutes the road was flooded, forcing me to zigzag between deep puddles while avoiding cars that refused to slow down.

When I reached Can Thanh, the town at the southern most point of Can Gio, I could see the cranes of the Vung Tau

harbor and the hotels and restaurants doting the coastline. It was still fairly early and I was looking forward to drinking a cold beer on the Vung Tau beach, so I started looking for the pier where the boats depart from. I found it on the eastern edge of town next to a market.

When I approached the docks, I noticed a blue sign with departure times indicating the last boat had left 15 minutes earlier.

As it turned out there are only three boats a day, the first one at 6am and two more at 8am and 10am.

Despite my disappointment, I decided it was still early enough to drive the two hours back to the city and take the highway to Vung Tau. I headed out of town and after about 20 minutes of high-speed driving

through light rain, I felt the distinctive wobble of a rear flat tyre. I pulled over and sure enough it was completely flat.

I had just passed a restaurant a couple kilometres back so I figured I would have a better chance finding a repairman along this empty highway if I backtracked.

Two kilometres and litres of sweat later I arrived at the restaurant only to be turned away.

The girl at the front told me the nearest place to fix a flat was another two kilometres down the road. Since I had no choice I continued walking while the sun, which hadn’t been out all day until then, became stronger by the minute causing my sweating to become more profuse and my anger to grow at all the people slowing down

to point and laugh at the wet, red foreigner.

As I walked, I couldn’t help but notice colourful birds flying in and out of the eerie swamps and the different species of odd plants and flowers lining the forest. I even spotted some snakes and lizards wading in the shallow brackish swamp water beneath the trees. It made the remaining 10 kilometres much more enjoyable.

After over an hour of walking I eventually found a repairman taking a nap as his wife husked coconuts. After some not-sogentle prodding, I was able to wake him and he quickly patched the puncture, which was caused by a tiny, rusty office staple.

With my tube fixed I got back on my bike and moments later

the rain started again, this time much harder. The new highway I had been so impressed with turned into an ankle-deep river the entire distance to the ferry.

To add insult to injury, the rain stopped almost immediately as I got onto the ferry. Exhausted, sunburnt and defeated, I decided to head back to the city, but not without deciding to attempt this trip again.

I have found this to be a pretty typical road trip experience in Vietnam; even the simplest journey can turn frustrating and tiresome. But for me this is one of the exciting things about going anywhere in Vietnam; travelling with an uneasy sense that something is about to go wrong and when it does, it always makes for a good memory. asialife HCMC 35

In search of well-deserved respite, Mark Bibby Jackson escapes to the Laotian countryside and gets caught up in New Year chaos along the way.

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The boy with the pump-action revolver clearly meant business.

Smiling through his toothless grin he let me have it. A huge jet of water exploded onto my already drenched t-shirt.

This is how they say ‘Sabaidee Pbeemai’ or Happy New Year in Laos.

Fortunately, I had already planned my retreat. A threehour boat ride along the Mekong River from Luang Prabang, Kamu Lodge is as close to getting back to nature as you can find in this world of globalised travel.

Consisting of a series of canvas tents strewn around a terraced paddy field, solar panels above each one provide sufficient electricity to power small fans and a light, but nothing else.

Unable to recharge an iPad or contact the outside world via internet, you are left to the company of your fellow guests and the solitary white buffalo that chews its way through the rice paddy. Stressed out by the modern life? Escape to Kamu.

TASTE OF THE COUNTRY During our stay, a guide called Lee escorts us through a series of activities aimed at providing an insight into the life of local villagers.

Judging by our attempts at crossbow shooting, rice planting and net fishing, we would starve to death if left to our own devices. Fortunately accommodation comes with breakfast, lunch and dinner already prepared.

The lodge borders on the tiny village of Yoi Hai. Small wooden

and thatched houses clamber their way up the side of the hill. The newer buildings have concrete walls and tin roofs.

We climb to the top to meet the farmer who has just shown us how to plant rice. He is now constructing his new home and judging by the number of concrete blocks involved, he benefits from his employ at the lodge. He is one of 30 villagers who work there.

A MODEL VILLAGE An official-looking notice board informs us that Yoi Hai is a model village. Lee says this means that all residents, apart from the elderly, can read and write.

The area was initially inhabited by the Buddhist Lau Lum tribe, who moved on as the government resettled animist Kamu people here from the neighbouring hills. This was in order to bring them closer to formal education, explains Lee. Now Lau Lum have started to return to their former land, although the Kamu are still in the majority. A shaman lives alongside a Buddhist monk and two novices.

We stop at the house of an old woman who offers us some black scorpion lao lao, the notorious drink of choice in Laos. Supposed to improve men’s virility, the chances of us putting this to the test seem remote, although an intrepid, retired Australian couple might fancy their chances. They have travelled by boat here from Chiang Rai across the border in Thailand and only have words of praise for their journey.

I am the first to try the lao lao.

It tastes warm like a shot of tequila, but without any pungent aftertaste. Fortunately the scorpion stays safe within his bottle.

Our afternoon excursion over, we retire to our tents to freshen up. The sound of the cicadas intensifies as the night draws in and we are left to entertain ourselves in a world devoid of electricity.

UNDER CANVAS It is many a year since I last slept under canvas, but this is not camping as I knew it on cold summer night’s in England.

The floor is tiled, the bed is real rather than a rolled out matt that somehow always seemed to exaggerate all the natural undulations in the ground, and the outhouse is made of brick. I decide it’s time to call it a night and am lullabied to sleep by the music of the neighbouring village as they karaoke their way into the new year.

The following morning we head back to Luang Prabang.

Few experiences compare with a boat ride in southeast Asia.

Early in the morning we see two large barges chugging their way loaded up with what appears to be sand. Later on we pass fishermen as they hang their lines out to dry.

After 45 minutes we approach Pak Ou Cave, a popular day excursion from Luang Prabang.

My fellow passengers climb the long steps up to the cave, while I stay on board with the crew watching the day-trippers with parasols making a pilgrimage to wash the many statues of Buddha inside.

SITTING DUCKS We have hardly disembarked in Luang Prabang before the first water canon hits us.

Trapped in our tuk tuk, we are sitting ducks to every man woman and child. By the time we reach the sanctuary of our resort, the Villa Maly, all are drenched to the skin. I have now experienced New Year in Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar. While Luang Prabang lacks the rock concert feel of Yangon, what it lacks in amplification it certainly makes up for in energy.

From midday to sunset a cavalcade of cars, trucks and tuk tuks parades its way around the ancient streets and along the riverfront.

Restaurant, shop and massage parlour owners fight pitched battles with the invading troops. Some show the signs of camouflage with either black paint rubbed onto their skin or flour daubed on their cheeks. Backpackers join in the fray, yielding their pump action water guns like Vietnam veterans.

As night draws in the traditional traders of the night market resume their rightful positions. Judging by the fresh coiffeur of most of my fellow travellers, a lot of shampooing has taken place during the evening ceasefire.

The fighting will resume for a third and final day on the following afternoon, by which time I shall be in neighbouring Chiang Mai to discover how toothless Thai children usher in new year with visitors from a foreign land. asialife HCMC 37

Saigon Variety Everybody in Vietnam eats barbecued fish, seafood and fresh uncooked vegetables.

But regional variations are easy to observe. Some of these are due to differences in the climate and soil, altitude and geography. Vietnam has several climatic zones, from the steamy tropical to downright cold; from high mountains to seashores; from river deltas to places where cacti grow. So there is a great variety both in ingredients and their availability. While some dishes are good for the heat, and some are good for the cold, others are a constant throughout the land.

Southerners eat spicy curries that originated in India, people in the centre nibble on delicacies of the Imperial table that look astonishingly like Spanish tapas, Hanoi is synonymous with pho bo which is a result of the Mongol invasion, and the whole country eats French bread and pork pâté. But none of these, or dozens of other dishes, taste quite like their cultures of origin.

You might be detecting a theme here. So let me share with you a saying that Vietnamese like to tell foreigners as well as each other. It goes that Vietnamese culture is like a single-room house with four walls, each wall having a large window. The room is full of furniture arranged in what seems to the outsider to be inartful. Well the winds blow, from north, south, east and west, and when they blow they 38 asialife HCMC

rearrange the furniture. But rearrange it how they will, it always remains Vietnamese.

The southern region focuses here on Saigon, which began as an Indianised Khmer town in the 14th century called Prey Nokor. The Vietnamese took it in the 18th century, the French in the 19th century, and the Vietnamese took it back in the 20th century. The Indian and Chinese merchants have been here all along. The south bears their imprint. And since

“If ever a Vietnamese nouvelle cuisine should develop, it will begin in Saigon.”

Saigon is the country’s centre of commerce and trade, with more foreigners both resident and transient, there is a greater awareness of and openness to outside influences. If ever a Vietnamese nouvelle cuisine should develop, it will begin in Saigon.

The south grows a greater variety of tropical and temperate fruits and vegetables, and more varieties of spice. Hence, the south favours spicy dishes.

Curries have been around since earliest times, although, unlike the Indian originals, they are not hot but aromatic. They

may be taken with noodles or rice as a family meal, or with French bread as a snack.

Another Indian influence, and peraps the general favorite, is banh xeo, which is a descendant of the Indian dhosa, or you could call it a large crepe filled with goodies. It can be so big that giant pans are required to cook it. The pans are too big for conventional stoves so they are taken outside and cooked over open fires by those whose skill is born of thousands of banh xeo. And it's a great show to watch. So if you're in a traditional banh xeo shop, sit outside.

The Vietnamese make it with rice flour and coconut milk, and fill it with meat and shellfish, as well as vegetables.

Banh xeo is often referred to in English as a Vietnamese ‘pancake’. I think this is an unsatisfactory translation, but there seems to be nothing I can do about it. In keeping with southern exuberance, dishes are often served in a more festive way. You will be presented with a plate of fresh lettuce and herbs as well as unripe fruits such as mango, green banana or papaya, starfruit or pineapple. Take a little of the cooked food and place it in the centre of a lettuce leaf, add some of the herbs, and wrap the lettuce around the food and dip it into whatever sauce is close at hand. Dining in Saigon can be very much a hands-on experience. So go ahead, play with your food.

The Rusty Bucket Going out to swish restaurants is nice, but sometimes there is nothing better than a massive plate of food and an ice-cold beer at an unpretentious place.

The Rusty Bucket, a recent addition to the area in front of Sky Garden 3, delivers just that.

The dĂŠcor is pure sports bar, with jerseys and flat-screen TVs on the walls and a deck of cards at every table. In two months time the restaurant has attracted a loyal following thanks to its daily 3pm to 7pm happy hour and relaxed atmosphere.

Owner and head chef Pete Neufeld is quick to express his love for big portions, and the

A new bar serving up huge portions of pub food in Phu My Hung. Photos by Fred Wissink.

dishes are positively American in size. The menu is classic pub grub; including burgers, the popular pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips and, for our Canadian friends, poutine. All of the dishes range from VND 70,000 to VND 120,000 and although the menu is still being tweaked, Neufeld is adamant there will never be any salad offered.

We start off with the Rusty Bucket Burger (VND 125,000), stacked with mushrooms, lettuce, tomato and an egg, as well as a side of excellent fries. The burger was tasty, if a bit messy, and good value.

Next up is the pulled pork sandwich with chilli fries, the restaurant’s best seller. The pork, which is cooked for seven hours, was tender and deeply flavourful. The chilli fries were a definite highlight, and the fact that they are made from potatoes imported from California makes a big difference. Black beans, cheese, and diced tomatoes were piled onto a hearty bed of fries, and the only real option was to eat with a fork.

By this point we were getting quite full, but the fish and chips (VND 115,000) caught our eye, and out came an enormous filet of fish along with more fries.

The fish was deliciously tender and the batter was excellent, and by the time the plate was cleared we were utterly stuffed.

The Rusty Bucket offers up no-nonsense, quality pub food that will satisfy even the most voracious eater. It is also a nice break from the flashiness of other parts of Phu My Hung, and it has one of the better names in town. If you miss your local pub from back home, give this one a try.

S76-1 Sky Garden 3, Pham Van Nghi, D7 012 6969 1700 Noon till late, seven days asialife HCMC 39

Pizza 4P's Tucked away at the end of a quiet alley off Le Thanh Ton sits Pizza 4P’s, where a communal table set in front of a wood-fired oven dominates the centre of the restaurant, although there are conventional tables as well for those who don’t like dining with strangers.

The 4P’s stand for ‘Platform of Personal Pizza for Peace’, a message I find a bit cryptic, but there is nothing mysterious about the food: it is phenomenal.

The menu successfully fuses Vietnamese, Japanese, and Italian cuisine, something that could have easily gone wrong in less capable hands.

The list of appetizers features a few local standards as well as a nice selection of salads, while entrees include options like lasagna and a German potato 40 asialife HCMC

A Japanese-Vietnamese-Italian fusion restaurant that serves some of the best pizza in town. Photos by Fred Wissink. dish, all of which cost between VND 50,000 and VND 150,000. A variety of pastas sit in the same price range.

This is all well and good, but it is the pizza that really makes 4P’s stand out. All of the cheese used in the pies is made from scratch in Dalat by the restaurant’s supplier, giving the pizza a taste distinct from any other in the city. Quality cheese is often hard to come by in Saigon, and when you eat something other than Laughing Cow the difference is immediately apparent.

The wide selection of pizzas range from VND 150,000 to VND 350,000, and they are big enough to be shared between two people. There are varieties that you will recognize from any Italian restaurant, but the Japanese-inspired pizzas are

what really shine. The tuna curry, calamari seaweed, and mayonnaise shrimp options are certainly intriguing, and there is even one pizza that features octopus as an ingredient.

We start off with two appetizers: the petite mozzarella sushi (VND 64,000) and the mozzarella with organic tomato caprese (VND 95,000). Both were light and refreshing, and the cheese was simply fantastic, some of the best I’ve had here. The tomatoes in the caprese are imported from Italy.

Then it was on to the pizza.

We opted for a prosciutto margherita (VND 330,000), which featured home-made mozzarella and parmesan and delicate slices of incredibly flavourful parma ham. The thin, fluffy crust was a delight as well.

We concluded the meal with a half-and-half pizza: salmon sashimi with ricotta and parmesan (VND 250,000); and flower (VND 140,000), which included pumpkin, leek, daylily, and a few other things I’ve never heard of that made this one of the most colourful pies I’ve ever seen. The salmon was fresh as can be, and the flowers made for a unique flavour that worked very well.

4P’s has arguably the best pizza around, and their cheese plays a large role in making that possible. As a cheese fan I can’t wait to try some of the other varieties in the future. This restaurant deserves to have a long life here in Saigon.

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 0120 789 4444 11am-11pm, seven days

Cham Charm Khai Silk properties are known for being fairly over the top, and Cham Charm is no exception. The entrance looks something like a modern-day version of Angkor Wat, and the sprawling interior must be one of the most lavish in all of Saigon.

Sculptures, artwork and other decorations abound, and carvings depicting scenes of ancient life adorn several walls.

Fortunately, unlike at many other high-end businesses here, the opulence actually works visually, and the result is simply stunning.

Cham Charm advertises itself as a ‘gallery cuisine’ restaurant. I’m not really sure what that means, but the main draw is the buffet, which costs VND 945,000 plus taxes. This

This lavish seafood restaurant in The Crescent makes for a unique dining experience. Photos by AsiaLIFE.

is a steep price, but the food on offer makes it worth it.

Six counters sit in different areas of the first floor, where the buffet takes place. One displays Japanese specialties like sushi and tempura, while nearby sit pots of Thai and Indian food. There is an international counter, where western and Vietnamese dishes are served, and another where piles of lobster, prawn, and squid sit on ice waiting for their turn to be grilled. Oh, and don’t forget the dessert area as well. The buffet also includes all-you-can-drink wine, a special Chilean vintage custom-made for Cham Charm, and Asahi or Sapporo beer.

After wandering around the palatial interior we decided it was time to start trying some of this food. I started off with

tempura, sushi, and sashimi, all of which was fresh and very high quality.

Then it was on to the seafood, of course. The grilled scallops were succulent and perfectly cooked, and the lobster, which was lathered in a cheese sauce and served with teriyaki, was awesome. Last but not least was grilled langoustine, tender and delicious.

We wanted to try some of the available international cuisine, but the seafood was filling us up so we decided to move on to dessert. Cham Charm’s pastry chef crafts all of the dishes, and two favourites were mango cake and a dragonfruit tart.

The staff also recommended the green tea ice cream served on a bed of red bean sauce, a Japanese delicacy.

It would be nearly impossible to leave this buffet hungry with the amount of high-quality food on offer. There is a set dinner available on the second floor from Monday to Wednesday, but the all-you-can-eat extravaganza is without a doubt the main draw here. The cost will prevent most people from dining at Cham Charm with any regularity, but for special occasions it’s hard to think of a better place to enjoy an evening in the lap of luxury. Just don’t forget to make a reservation, because this place is popular.

02 Phan Van Chuong St., D7 08 5410 9999 Buffet served 6pm – 9:30pm Thursday-Sunday Set dinner served 6pm – 9:30pm Monday-Wednesday asialife HCMC 41

HIGH PERFORMANCE Whether you want to get a little bit more out of your standard motorbike or let your imagination run free on a custom job, Brett Davis finds a downtown workshop where two-wheel dreams become reality.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

Along Ky Con in District 1, which runs from Tran Hung Dao down past the back of the Dan Sinh market, the streets are awash with sound. You can hear the whir of machinery, banging of metal on metal and the roar of engines being revved. In fact, this whole neighbourhood is sort of a giant hardware store cum workshop.

One place that stands out from the crowd, and not just because of the name, is KTL Tecnic. The large sign facing the streets declares the shop to be the authorized dealer for a host of high-performance parts manufacturers from the United States, Europe and Japan.

Inside, the tidy white tile floor, hydraulic lifts, glass display cases and a seemingly endless array of tools and machinery announce that this is a serious operation. It didn’t actually start 42 asialife HCMC

out that way, because when Josh Epstein opened the workshop five years ago it was more about indulging a hobby and looking after his own bikes.

If Epstein’s business is a little out of the ordinary, his personal story is cut from the same cloth.

Born in Vietnam in 1975, he left the country on a boat about two years later with some family friends. After bouncing around several countries, he was eventually adopted by a Vietnamese woman and her Jewish husband living in LA. Due to his adopted father’s work he finished his schooling in Australia and carries an Australian passport, although he still speaks with a noticeable American twang.

Growing up in the US, Epstein says his real passion was not for motorbikes. “My passion has always been for cars, and in the US you know, big bikes and big

SUVs don’t really mix,” he says.

Things changed when he moved back to Vietnam and Saigon’s general unsuitability for four-wheel transport. He says it was difficult at first because the local market was not used to the concept of performance upgrades. “It was all about original parts and there was definitely a culture of ‘Honda is best’.”

So KTL Tecnic began with the basics, Epstein explains, doing exhaust and clutch upgrades, bolt-on cylinder kits and the like. Today he is well positioned in the market with increasing incomes meaning people have more money to indulge their passion for bikes.

Hey says much of what the shop does now is work for people looking to get a bit more power out of their standard bikes, particularly automat-

ics like the Honda SH or the Yamaha Nouvo. “It’s just the nature of the transmission that you are going to lose some power,” he says.

This work can involve something called variation tuning, which helps the clutch reach a higher RPM more quickly, and adding some more customised parts. “We are working within the bounds of original parts, but are just using performance parts,” he says.

Also on the floor of his shop when we visit are two custom jobs: one is a complete overhaul of an old Honda Cub, while the other is a barely recognisable Chali that has been turned into a mini chopper. Epstein says he thinks there is a market out there amongst young expats and Vietnamese who may not know all the technical details, but want a cool bike they know is reliable and has good after-sale service.

“Probably the number one thing people say to me is that they can communicate their thoughts to me and they get what they ask for,” he says.

And good communication, on both sides of the linguistic divide, with those doing the work is the first step in making your ride stand out from the crowd.

TL Tecnic 138 Ky Con, D1 Josheppi@hotmail.com asialife HCMC 43

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Left: The Excluzif Toga by Nura J Right: Cotton On

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The Excluzif Toga by Nura J

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Photographer: Thai Pham Models: Erika Tan & Alize Martinez Make up artist: Shane Tong Stylist and Art Direction: Adrian Jiun

Tranquility SS2009 by Dezmond Lin Shaowei

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Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Jamon Iberico Known as a delicacy since Roman times, the cured hams, or jamon, originating in Spain and Portugal are these days prized the world over. Served very thinly sliced as an appetizer, they are somewhat similar to Italian prosciutto.

There are different types and grades of jamon, such as the jamon Serrano (meaning ‘from the mountains’), which is made from the Landrace breed of white pigs. However, the undisputed king of Spanish cured hams is the jamon iberico, made from the Black Iberian pig. This is why they are also sometimes called pata negra, or ‘black hoof’.

The difference in quality, and therefore price, comes not only down to the breed of pig but also diet and method of production. For the highest quality

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jamon iberico, the Black Iberian pigs are allowed to roam in the oak groves of southern and southwestern Spain, grazing on acorns, herbs and roots. Once they reach the necessary age and size, their diet is restricted to only acorns and olives to give the best final result. This is why the top-grade hams are designated Jamon Iberico de Bellota, or ‘acorn fed’.

The pigs can put away up to 10 kilograms of acorns a day which allows them to double their weight in three to four months. It is this deep marbling of fat and the rich antioxidants from their diet that is integral to the long curing process and what gives the jamon iberico its unparalleled taste.

Once slaughtered, the legs are packed in salt for several weeks then hung to begin drying in the

cool mountain air. The curing process for jamon iberico can take two years or longer. Over this period of time they can lose nearly half their weight as the fat drips away. Gradually, the changing of the seasons and the slow warming and cooling of the meat is what finally gives it such a powerful, complex flavour.

There is an art to slicing that jamon that is not simple to master. The leg is fixed to what is called a jamonera, which is essentially a sturdy wooden base with a metal spike rising out of it and a clamp at the top.

The hoof end is attached to the clamp to keep the leg in a raised position. A long, flexible knife known as a jamanero is used to make the cuts. The skill required of the person wielding the jamanero is to keep the slices

very thin yet even all the way through.

This is particularly important when you consider how much top-grade jamon iberico can cost. While it is less expensive in Europe, once various duties and taxes are imposed the cost can increase significantly when they reach other countries. For instance, through an importer of Spanish food in the US you can pick up a 6.8 kilogram bone-in jamon iberico de bellota for US $1,225, or a little over US $180 per kilogram.

That is a serious investment, although given they can keep for up to a year with relatively little fuss the price starts to look a bit less extreme. It is after all, Spain’s greatest culinary gift to the world, and sits comfortably in the company of the likes of Kobe beef or Beluga caviar.

listings

Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.

hotel & travel AIRLINES

Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist, Ba Ria Tel: 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao The first 5 star resort with 50 villas stretch across a mile-long beach, each villas has its own infinity-edge pool facing the ocean and a stunning restaurant.

DALAT

Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant

activities

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days.

HANOI

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest fivestar hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem

Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Blue Ocean in Mui Ne Pays Guests to Visit This Summer

Until the end of August, Life Resorts-managed Blue Ocean will reimburse guests on the School Holiday Special promotion for the cost of a one-way ticket by bus or train from Ho Chi Minh City. Stay two nights and the resort pays one fare both ways. Stay three nights and three one-way fares are reimbursed. Blue Ocean has also lowered its rate to VND 1,365,000 net through 1 August. For more information, contact the sales office in Mui Ne at 62.3847.444 or sales@blueocean. com.vn.

Summer Sailing on the Mekong

From now until September, Heritage Line cruises is offering 30 percent off on trips on their Jayavarman and Jahan vessels. Guest can choose from the 8 day/7 night Lost Civilisation cruise or the 5 day/4 night Serenity Cruise. The offer is valid for the Jayavarman departing Siem Reap for Saigon on 4 and 11 August and Saigon to Siem Reap on 11 August and 8 September. Departure dates for this offer on the Jahan are 11 August and 15 September for the Siem Reap to Saigon trip. Visit heritage-line.com for more details.

50 asialife HCMC

serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Caravelle Summer Room Promotion Until 30 Spetember the Caravelle is offering a summer room promotion where a Deluxe Single room starts at VND 4,065,000++per night and includes buffet breakfast, airport transfers and unlimited use of internet in room. A minimum of 2-nights stay is required. For bookings email: rsvn@caravellehotel.com.

Urban Retreat Package at Park Hyatt

Carve some time out of the day to revitalise the body, moisturise the skin, and please the taste buds with the Urban Retreat package at Xuan Spa. This restorative offer features a deep relaxing massage, a choice of manicure or pedicure, and a meal in the signature restaurant, Square One. Guests may utilise these three components in any order that best fits their schedule to bring back the body’s natural vitality by rejuvenating tired muscles and beautifying the skin.

Choice of one 60-minute spa treatment, or one 30-minute manicure or pedicure. The Urban Retreat Package is priced at VND 1,575,000. Visit Saigon.park.hyatt.com for more information.

Discover Luang Prabang Package

In Laos this month, a boutique Luang Prabang hotel and an eco-lodge on the Mekong River is offering a summer special that represents a 65 percent discount off usual rates. Through 30 September, the one-time residence of Lao royalty is home base for a three-night, four-day exploration of this UNESCO World Heritage site. In addition to two nights at Villa Maly, the package includes another night at Kamu Lodge, an eco-resort perched on the banks of the Mekong 35 kilometres upstream from Luang Prabang. For more information email julien@appletree-asia.com.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

HUE

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture.

Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.

NHA TRANG

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.

PHAN THIET

Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort

SAPA

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING

Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s.

Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

VUNG TAU Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Exotissimo HCMCinfosgn@exotissimo.com pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com

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Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

listings

food & drink

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

BAR RESTAURANTS

Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

feast

Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan's Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1

The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. 

International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza. 

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

CAFES

CHINESE

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1

Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Beef Short Ribs at Square One

During the month of July, Square One is offering beef short ribs special. As the most popular cut of beef, the short ribs tender is highlighted by four different preparations.

Options include: grilled short rib burger, tomato relish, pickled onion, chipotle mayonnaise, French fries for VND 550,000; hot and sour crispy beef short ribs and steamed Asian greens for VND 580,000; slow braised Vietnamese spiced beef short rib, peppercorn with papaya salad for VND 650,000; and slow roasted beef short ribs smoked with BBQ sauce with grilled corn for VND 690,000. Visit restaurants.parkhyattsaigon. com for more details.

Opera’s Veal Dedication

This month, veal hits centre stage in Opera at the Park Hyatt. Options include: spiced veal tartare, parmesan aioli, pickled beetroot, bread salad for VND 290,000; veal arancini, spicy tomato sauce, crispy rice ball for VND 290,000; homemade veal agnolotti, burnt butter sauce, sage, pecorino, pine nuts

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Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

for VND 340,000; slow cooked veal osso bucco, saffron risotto, gremolata for VND 420,000; veal saltimbocca, ham, porcini mushroom, asparagus, black truffle gnocchi for VND 550,000; veal chop Milanese, lemon, pear, parmesan, arugula salad for VND 810,000. Visit restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com for more details.

Long Carvery Buffet

Every Wednesday of July, expect the carvery station at Nineteen’s dinner buffet to be loaded with hefty cuts and meaty mains. Look for home-cooked favourites such as beef ribs with roast apples and onion gravy, turkey with chestnut stuffing and pumpkin wedges, and honey-glazed ham with sweet corn gravy.

VND 1,013,000++ per person including free flow of house wines Restaurant Nineteen on the ground floor at the Caravelle Hotel. Visit caravellehotel.com for details.

Oysters & Champagne

From 14 to 20 July Fin de Claire oysters

– considered the world’s finest – will be served alongside oysters fresh from Vung Tau and Halong Bay, and accompanied by traditional condiments and Tabasco sauces. Seafood fans can have the molluscs by the dozen or a half dozen with a flute of champagne at Lobby Lounge, or with their favourite cocktails and spirits at Martini Bar. Visit caravellehotel.com for details.

All You Can Eat Dim Sum

Li Bai Chinese restaurant at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers is well recognized for its appealing Dim Sum selection of over 50 Dim Sum favourites served during lunch.

Li Bai offers daily an exceptional All-YouCan-Eat Dim Sum lunch, or a la carte. On Saturdays and Sundays, Li Bai further enhances the All-You-Can-Eat dim sum lunch by adding suckling pig and roasted duck to give more choices to experience Chinese cuisine.For more details or reservations, call (08) 3827 2828 or email sheratonsaigon@ sheraton.com.

street gourmet

An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

FRENCH

Iced Tamarind Craving a drink to cool off on a hot summer day but bored of coconut and pineapple juice? Iced tamarind is what you’re looking for.

The drink is made from sugar, tamarind juice (da me), and water. First, sugar is dissolved in the tamarind

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5

water to make tamarind syrup. The mixture is then simmered for several minutes, then cooled and stored in the refrigerator.

Finally, ice and sugar are added and you’re ready for a cool and refreshing drink.

Hieu Vu

Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere Chefs David Thai an Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city`s many French restaurants

INDIAN

large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL

Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Blanchy's Tash 93 - 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.blanchystash.com A high-end bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace. With ex-Nobu London Chef at the helm, Blanchy’s offers tapaslike snacks that fuse Japanese and South American influences. Expect great things here from international DJs and renowned mixologists

Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. 

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. 

Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor

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imbibe

street gourmet

The Forgotten Noble Grape

By Darryl Bethea OK, so you are tired of always having a glass of red wine.

It is too hot and you want something delicious, cool and refreshing. Are you thinking of a bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc? How about a bottle of Riesling? Riesling?

Yes, I want you to discover the versatility of Riesling wine.

In the world of wine, Riesling is considered a noble white grape (the others are Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The red nobles are Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Noble grapes are associated with producing the highest quality wines. Many experts believe that Riesling is the most noble and unique white grape in the world.

Regardless of where it is grown, harvested and produced, there are some common traits. Great Riesling has a high amount of acidity, the ability to make your mouth water with anticipation, getting your juices flowing. Second, there is a good concentration of flavours, giving your nose fruity, floral aromas and palate flavours. Third, it is traditionally a low alcohol wine compared with most; 10 percent or less is common, compared with other wines containing an average of 12.5 percent or more.

The mouth-watering acidity of Riesling creates a great wine to pair with food. There are so many food pairings with this wine; the most satisfying and surprising is an off-dry (slightly sweet) Riesling with spicy Asian foods. It will beat the heat, calm it down, balance it, then leave your mouth ready to enjoy more. The

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flavours are pleasing to the palate, with many varying levels of dryness and sweetness.

German, Alsace France, Australian, and American wines all offer diverse characteristics.

Here is a guide, ascending order of driest to sweetest.

German wines like Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese and Spatlese are a good starting point if you are trying Riesling for the first time. French Rieslings from Alsace differ from their German counterparts in that they are usually drier, less sweet, with little to no oak flavour, and have high minerality.

Just keep in mind the terroir tells us everything we need to know about the wine.

Generally speaking, Riesling grows best in cool to cold climates, producing the most award winning wines. Germany, Austria, Alsace France, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and North America all produce Riesling. Even though Germany is the most famous, Washington state in the US is the birthplace of the best selling Riesling in the world, Chateau Ste. Michelle.

So don’t automatically choose a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc when desiring a refreshing, cool, glass of white wine. The climate and cuisine of southeast Asia is perfect for the noble Riesling.

Cheers!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@ finewinesasia.com.

Mount Fuji Cake If you hear the name Mount Fuji Cake (banh Phu Si) for the first time, you will think that its origin is Japan. It is actually a Vietnamese cake.

It has this special name because the green pandan pastry cream and grated coconut make it look like Mount Fuji covered with snow. It has two main elements: a sponge-like cake

deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients— favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

and a mixture of coconut milk, sugar, rice flour, butter, and pandan juice. After the cake is made, it is cut into layers. Finally, the green cream is spread between the layers and on the entire cake, and grated coconut is sprinkled on top. You can find Mount Fuji Cake in supermarkets and bakeries in the city. Hieu Vu

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first

foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong,

D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood,

as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafoodd dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam

Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare.

Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

JAPANESE

Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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KOREAN

25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. 

Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN

Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE

Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch, set dinner, International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour.

An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 Well executed and delicious Vietnamese food at almost criminally affordable prices. Tucked away at the top end of District one, this place is worth seeking out for five-star food in a casual setting that will certainly not strain the budget.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL 117 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 Ext. 6614 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 Email: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

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(spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES

See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre. Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.  Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

BREWHOUSES

Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home BAKERIES

Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries. Many of the breads are dairyfree, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

LONDON CALLING Olympic Cocktails Refresh yourself while the world’s top athletes work up a thirst Happy Hour 4 pm to 7 pm daily Please call for reservations or book through our website

38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, An Phu, D2, HCMC T +84 (0) 8 3 744 6632 E info@thedecksaigon.com W thedecksaigon.com

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Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

Saigon Catering 41A Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9286 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s. For a custommade quotation e-mail SaigonGG@ gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES

Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm.

Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare.

Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

DELIVERY

KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sausages and vegetarian dishes. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

Willy Woo’s www.vietnammm.com Southern American fare including skillet

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fried chicken, Belgium waffles and BBQ foods, red beans and rice, Jalapeno corn bread, and other classic southern sides. Delivery only via vietnammm.com

GROCERIES

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

recipes

Cioppino, Shaved Fennel Salad, Grilled toast, Roasted Garlic Aioli Serves 6

For the stock 1 fish head Shrimp/crab shells 2 carrots, roughly chopped 2 celery stalks, roughly chopped 2 large onions, roughly chopped For the Cioppino Olive oil 1 onion, chopped 3 large shallots, chopped 2 teaspoons of salt 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 3/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste 1/4 cup tomato paste 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 5 cups fish stock 1 bay leaf 1 kg clams, scrubbed 1 kg mussels, scrubbed, debearded 1 kg uncooked large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 1/2 kg assorted firm-fleshed fish fillets cut into 2 inch chunks For the fennel 2 fennel bulbs, shaved 1 bunch of parsley Lemon juice Olive oil Salt For the garlic aioli 10 garlic cloves Water for boiling Salt 1 tablespoon mustard Olive oil

Preparation for stock 1. Put all ingredients in a stockpot.

2. Add cold water, simmer for 30 minutes, strain.

For the soup 1. Heat the oil in a very large pot over medium heat, add onion and shallots.

2. Sauté until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the garlic and 3/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes, and sauté 2 minutes.

4. Stir in the tomato paste.

5. Add tomatoes with their juices, wine, fish stock and bay leaf.

6. Cover and bring to a simmer.

7. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

8. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

9. Add the clams and mussels to the cooking liquid. Cover and cook until the clams and mussels begin to open.

10. Add the shrimp and fish. Simmer gently until the fish and shrimp are cooked through, and the clams are completely open.

11. Season the soup to taste.

For the fennel Combine all ingredients in a bowl.

For the garlic aioli Boil garlic cloves in water until tender, then blend with the mustard and salt, slowly add the olive oil until emulsified.

To serve In soup bowls serve a ladleful of cioppino, making sure to add fish and seafood, top with the fennel salad. Grill a piece of toast and add the aioli, and serve on top.

Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

listings

Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES

AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES

a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

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4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA

AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

CRICKET

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2

Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from

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Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230

www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city.

Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day.

An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions.

The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF

Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

counsel corner

LEISURE

Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Going Home

By Briar Jacques Families are systems. Each member has certain roles to play to keep everything functioning. Sometimes we are happy with our roles, sometimes not. Often we feel forced to play them or are afraid of what might happen if we don’t. We can become unconscious of our motivations for our behaviours and can find ourselves falling into patterns year after year.

For those of us heading back to our home countries for the summer holidays, family issues can become paramount.

The phrase, “If you think you are enlightened go spend time with your family” captures some of the essence of what it is like to spend time with your family of origin as an adult. For many of us nothing pushes our buttons more than being with our parents and siblings for an extended period of time. We can find ourselves regressing and experiencing an inner conflict between desires to be with them and desire to get away from them as quickly as possible. Obviously I am generalising but for many people being with their family of origin produces at least some mixed feelings. So, how can we spend an enjoyable family holiday focusing on the good and avoid old patterns, rivalries and hurts?

One thing that can help is a little pre-planning. Before reuniting with family it can be

helpful to spend some time thinking about past interactions and trying to understand your part in them. Are there any arguments you find yourself getting into again and again? Are you the black sheep? The golden girl or boy? The family scapegoat?

The saviour? The baby? Do you avoid confrontation (and intimacy) with them or do you find yourself becoming overly involved, combative or hurt?

Are there certain issues that trigger you? Do you feel your life choices are respected and understood? Do you become a teen again? How do you manage integrating your spouse or partner into your family of origin? How do you feel about how your kids act or are treated?

Asking yourself questions such as these might help to take some of the unconscious elements out of your behaviour.

Try not to judge yourself as you reflect. The aim of such introspection is to see dysfunctional patterns for what they are and to consciously try to disengage.

It gives you a good chance to step out of familiar dances and start to create better relationships - on purpose.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0121 480 8792.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

DENTAL

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

HAIR & SALON

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719

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questions for the coiffeur In the heart of the city medical center for the Hearts in Vietnam

Since 1992, the CMI has been delivering high quality medical service in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. All the doctors are French or Vietnamese and studied in France. All of the CMI’s profits are dedicated to the Fondation Alain Carpentier.

Heart of the City - Large specialities - Good reputation Humanitarian - Competitive Price - French and Vietnamese Doctors Heart Institute - Alain Carpentier Fondation General and tropical medicine - Cardiology - Gynaecology - Osteopathic medicine - Paediatrics - Psychiatry - Psychotherapy - Psychology - Psychomotor therapy Speech and language therapy - Dietetician More information on www.cmi-vietnam.com Centre Medical International - Fondation Alain Carpentier 1 Han Thuyen, Quartier 1, Ho Chi Minh Ville Tél : (08) 38 27 23 67 - (08) 38 24 58 74 - Fax : (08) 38 27 23 65 info@cmi-vietnam.com - www.cmi-vietnam.com

By Lloyd Morgan Q. How can I make my hair grow?

A. How long your hair grows depends on genetics and some people’s hair just doesn’t grow past a certain length.

Q. I’m a woman and my hair seems to be falling out, is this normal?

A. In my experience, hair loss among women is common and most women experience it to some degree. This is commonly seen when a woman is pregnant, usually in the process of milk production. Due to the fact that we really don’t need hair, the body naturally shuts down the energy that is used to grow it and transfers it to the energy needed in milk production.

This is normal and some get it worse than others. There are three growing and resting stages the hair goes through.

When the hair rests, which means it isn’t growing, you can expect to have an average loss of about 100 hairs on a daily basis. If you experience excessive hair loss, which is sometimes caused by a nutrient deficiency, you should see a doctor.

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Q. My son wants a faux hawk but my husband says it’s too punky?

A. I’m sure every parent goes through something similar to this and I’m sure my son will be no different. However, a faux hawk can be easily worn in different ways. It can be flattened to look just like a short hair cut most of the time. Gel or wax has to be used to enable the hair to stand up, so let him wear it around the house and if he goes out make him flatten it.

In time your husband will get used to seeing him with it and will probably accept it, after all its quite harmless and is the fashion today for men and boys.

Last month I offered a 15 percent discount for all new clients. Since it was so successful, I’m offering it again. Bring in this month’s AsiaLIFE column to get the discount.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

MEDICAL

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

HANH PHUC International Hospital Binh Duong boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong.

Tel: 0650 3636068 www.hanhphuchospital.com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. 260 –bedder, provide a comprehensive range of quality healthcare services: Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Paediatrics, Immunization, IVF, Health checkup, Parentcraft, Woman Cancer, Cosmetic Surgery… Just 20- minute driving from HCMC. HANH PHUC International Hospital Clinic 2nd fl., Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1. Tel: 3911 1860 www.hanhphuchospital. com The 1st Singapore Standard Hospital in Vietnam. The clinic is located at the center of Dist. 1, provides a comprehensive range of services specializing in Obstertrics, Gynaecology, Peadiatrics, Immunization, General Practice and Emergency. Open hours: Weekdays: 8am to 5pm; Saturday: 8am to 12pm.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general

examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS

OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

SKINCARE

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3926 0336 www.thebodyshop.com International cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn

Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC.

SPAS

Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages plus a room dedicated to foot massages at the atrium level. Also has sizable steam and sauna rooms at the club Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

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family ACTIVITIES

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2

Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Briar Jacques bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Belli Blossom 4F-04 (4th Floor) Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 7574 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 6615 www.belliblossom.com.vn contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom catering to moms and babies with imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags, and many others.

Brands available include: Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, Gingersnaps.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

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Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

EDUCATION

ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong Thao Dien, D2 Early Childhood & Primary School Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior School East-West Highway,An Phu, D2 Tel: 3742 4040 ext 7119 enrolments@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Founda-

tion Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

ERC 86-88-92 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn ERC Vietnam is a member of ERCI Singapore. Founded by a group of successful business leaders around Asia Pacific.

Our primary objective is to groom and mentor a new generation of business leaders in Vietnam equipped with skills to analyze and solve real-world business challenges of today.

German International School 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7247 www.gis.vn A bilingual English and German school, supported by the Federal Republic of Germany, where children can learn subjects in both languages. The curriculum follows the National Curriculum of Germany, which provides students the assurance they can enter or re-enter the German Education System at any time.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Te: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

KinderStar Kindergarten 08 Dang Dai Do, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5411 8118/9 Offering bilingual preschool program with capacity up to 900 students with the most updated international standard.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn

Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn.

The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh

Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

ENTERTAINMENT

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

PARTIES

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party.

A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons. almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

SUMMER MUSIC CONCERT

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living BUSINESS GROUPS

AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citi Bank 115 Nguyen Hue St, D1 Tel: 3824 2118 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corpo-rate. Services include Corporate and Investment Banking, Global Transaction Services, and Consumer Banking.

In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS

Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

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Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

finance

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS

Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING

Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Unusual Economic Indicators

By Shane Dillon Can short skirts and the beauty of your waitress give you the inside scoop on the direction of the economy? Some economists think so. Maybe all you need to do is ask your male friends the last time they bought underwear to give you the advantage on the future of the economy. Making sense of the latest economic indicators has become less science and more gut. Some savvy investors are turning to metrics they can’t find on their Bloomberg terminals to judge the nation’s health.

Men’s Underwear Index The Concept: Men will forgo purchasing new underwear to save money during hard times.

The Proof: Even Alan Greenspan is on the bandwagon.

Research firm Mintel estimated men’s underwear sales fell 2.3% in 2009, the first time since 2003.

Latvian Hooker Index The Concept: Simple supply and demand: during boom times when women can find better jobs, there are fewer hookers and hourly prices rise.

The Proof: Latvian sex workers have been stuck in a rut. As the economy soured, rates fell as low as US $60 for a night’s work in 2009. This Baltic index is way more intuitive than that other Baltic index.

Attractive Waitress Index The Concept: The more attractive the waitress, the closer the economy is to the brink. During

boom times, physically attractive people can leverage their looks to get better paying jobs.

The Proof: New York magazine thinks there’s substance to this concept writing extensively on it in 2009 in the wake of the GFC. Beer Consumption Index The Concept: Won’t be able to make it out to that bar after work? Apparently you aren’t alone. Consumers often try to save money by drinking at home, sending pub sales and jobs into a tizzy.

The Proof: In Europe, 73% of jobs tied to the beer industry are outside breweries. These include jobs at bars and restaurants. From 2008 through 2010, employment in the beer industry fell 12% versus 2% for Europe as a whole. Surely austerity measures feel much harder without that drink.

Popcorn Index The Concept: To escape the doldrums of reality, consumers flock to cinemas to see Jason Bourne and Harry Potter, regardless of the movie’s quality.

The Proof: The box office posted one of its biggest years during the 2009 recession, before plateauing as markets eased. If there’s a double-dip, expect popcorn sales to be up again.

Shane Dillon is a partner at Total Wealth Management. He welcomes your questions or comments at shane.dillon@twm.com.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

PERSONAL FINANCIAL PLANNING

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing

Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes.

Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures.

Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Mekong-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Mekong Creations 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1

DECOR

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh

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people matter

Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Educated, or Just Graduated

By Gary Woollacott Are you lucky enough to have had the opportunity to be educated overseas, and now you’re back, showing off your shiny new degree, looking to get a great job? We see a fair amount of people like you – and we are usually interested to talk with you about prospective employers.

But sometimes our excitement can turn to disappointment when we realise that although you have graduated (with a certificate to prove it) you haven’t actually become educated.

Let me explain. Many people study and go through the motions – they turn up, listen to the lecturers, do the coursework and take the final exams. They pass, they get their certificate and they think that's it. But that's just turning up and doing the minimum.

A real education starts with intellectual curiosity about the subject being studied and then seeking to take on board as much as possible on that topic.

It’s so refreshing to meet people with a natural curiosity about things, whether it’s about people and their motivations, the natural world, the arts, science, or whatever.

Imagine what it must be like to teach people like that, how rewarding it must be, instead of reciting a textbook to drones who simply write it down – and I know, my first

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economics teacher did just that. Luckily my level of intellectual curiosity far exceeded his ability to diminish it. I outlasted his course and went on to study more.

So, if you are studying now, don’t just sit there and pretend to be interested.

Find something you can get excited about and focus on that. If you have completed your studies and think you might have fallen into that category, perhaps take a course (it doesn’t have to be a full degree) in something you feel passionate about.

For those who have finished studies and are working full time, the same principles apply – you won’t be progressing within your organisation unless you’re seen to be engaged and contributing.

As recruiters we want to see some passion about something, and for sure employers do too. To be blunt, we’re the gatekeepers, so if you don’t get past us you won’t be seeing our client.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladies’ shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Unity 12 Dang Tran Con, D1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com www.facebook.com/unitycompany Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection to give your home a sense of Unity.

ELECTRONICS

Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and

more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE

Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

LINH‘S WHITE 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to

bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world.

Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Lucy Wayne & Associates www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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style for gents

from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

MOTORBIKES

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

The Hat Pack

By Brett Davis I know, I know, we are all probably a bit over talking about the TV show Mad Men in terms of its fashion sense and evocation of a certain sophisticated, urban style of the time. However, it is a useful jumping off point for what I want to talk about, so just deal with it.

I’m talking about hats.

Those sharp, snap brim fedoras that Don Draper and his colleagues sport in between drinking whisky, closing deals and bedding secretaries.

Popularised in the latter part of the 19th century, this staple of male fashion remained in vogue right through the 60s and in some cases beyond.

For certain generations, it was unthinkable for a man of any standing to be seen in public without one. For instance, I never saw my grandfather leave the house without a hat. Ever. During the 1970s though, the hat quickly became obsolete as people began to take more liberties with hairstyles. I guess it is difficult to rock a kick-ass ‘fro and a hat at the same time.

Given the recent warm weather here in Saigon, it had me thinking as to why hats aren’t worn more often.

These days they seem to be something confined to the weekend, or when you do things like play golf. Most of us are out and about during the working week, and there is an undeniable health benefit.

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REAL ESTATE I say this coming from the state of Queensland in Australia, the skin cancer capital of the world and a place with a climate not dissimilar to here.

Yet even there, where decades of public education campaigns have taught us to ‘slap on a hat’, headwear for a man on his way to work at the office is an uncommon sight.

There have been a few instances in the last couple of decades where the hat has threatened to make a comeback, usually because of some pop culture instigation.

The pork pie hat, a version of the fedora with a rounded crown and flat brim, had a short resurgence after Gene Hackman wore one in The French Connection. UK bands like Madness also did their bit in the 1980s.

In the last few years the tilby-style hat has become popular with the Gen-Y crowd.

These hats have a very narrow brim snapped down at the front and slightly raised at the back. These days they are often made from lighter materials such as straw or straw-nylon blends. The greater versatility in materials and colours has meant the trilby is now as much an accessory for the girls as it is for guys.

Sadly though, like the opening credits of Mad Men, it looks like the hat as a gentleman’s fundamental has fallen off the edge of the fashion office block.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880

Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

RELOCATION AGENTS

Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords. com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh

Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/ cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES

Accessorize Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men.

Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women: notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made by local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and

embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 71 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 77 Dong Khoi, D1 Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories

Rimowa Level 2 OperaView Tower, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3832 6941 hotline@rimowavietnam.com The German luggage maker is popular with a who’s who of the celebrity world.

Their range of cases come in varying sizes and are made from high-tech materials to provide exceptional durability while remaining very light weight.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes,

femme fashion

handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR

The Tassel

By Claire Jowell My good friend and flat mate has a slight obsession with tassels. From leather tassels on bags to shoes and boots and even clothes. She has a spectacular swish to her walk when she is wearing her tassels, and somehow she manages to pair different tasseled items together without looking like she is wearing your granny’s cushion, or has just stepped off a Texas horse ranch. I have now begun to appreciate her love for tassels, and found myself on the lookout for my own tassel bag to swish around with.

Now, there are two types of tassels that my friend appreciates. The first is the tassel you would know from mum’s living room curtains, which is in fact is steeped in history. Tassels were a symbol of luxury for hundreds of years and were used in religious and military orders to discern rank. During the 16th and 17th centuries, tassel making was a prosperous business to be in as people were clamoring for this luxury accessory, which embodied wealth and social standing in Parisian society.

‘Passementiers’ (or tassel makers) had to complete a seven year apprenticeship before they were able to become a master of one of the guild’s subdivisions. The tassel has recently made

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a comeback, and modern day European and American artisans can charge up to US $1,000 for a handmade tassel. Tassels are extremely versatile and can be worn as earrings, dangling from your handbag or belt, or embellishing your shoes. From Chanel to Dior to Christian Louboutin, tassels are popping up on all kinds of shoes and bags.

And lucky for us cheapskates, imitations are available for a reasonable price at the Ben Thanh market. Even the smallest tassel can spruce up your outfit more than you would expect, and I guarantee you will not end up looking like a scatter cushion.

The second type of tassel is of course the cowboy version (not quite as luxurious, but ultra cool). This sort of tassel originated for drying purposes on a cowboy’s riding getup, but is now purely decorative.

I absolutely love my recently purchased bag with long flowing tassels that I picked up from little bag shop on Nguyen Huy Tu. It goes with most of my outfits and I am definitely considering making another cowboy tassel purchase.

Whether they exude luxury or Western tradition, tassels are just plain trendy, and I recommend them to everyone.

Add a tassel or two to your wardrobe!

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and

women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

men

Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available.

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women

Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1

Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by

Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

production house and studio in Vietnam. Available 1K Ngo Van So, Ward 13 District 4, HCMC, Vietnam (+84) 08 3941 1179 info@s3studios.asia www.s3studios.asia

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Xu & Bootleg

Cannes Predictions

Photos by Alex McMillan and Fred Wissink.

74 asialife HCMC

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radar Music to your ears

Last.fm Are you at a loss as to what music to download next? If you have exhausted your iTunes playlists and are lacking musical inspiration then you need to sign up to Last.fm. The site operates through its downloadable Scrobbler which searches through the music libraries on your computer and gives recommendations based on the artists and genres which you already listen to.

The Scrobbler sends scrobbles to Last.fm informing the site what songs you are listening to most frequently, which are then compared to the scrobbles of the site's millions of users, and your profile and listening recommendations are updated. The biographies of the artists are great, and you will find you soon have more music than you know what to do with. An excellent way to revamp your iPod.

Stick it up

Pinterest.com Pinterest is an online pinboard that allows you to organise and share all those bits and pieces that interest you on the internet. A new user needs to request an invite to start a Pinterst account, which is then linked to your Facebook or Twitter account. You can then start creating pinboards to organize your thoughts and collections of images on a variety of topics. The site is used to plan weddings, travel ideas or simply as a place to stick together those random cool images one finds while surfing the web. You can easily add the pinit button to your browser task bar which allows you to add images to your pinboard quickly and easily when you come across them. The image will then link back to the original site on your pinboard, making it an efficient and very easy space to organize your ideas.

Get in the mood

Moodturn.com Moodturn.com is another one of those great little sites to save as a bookmark.

While it may seem like waste of time to some, to others who lead busy lives, this site may be your saving grace. It simply plays background noise and displays an image on the main page, depending on your choice of theme. It is great to have open in the background while on Facebook or doing work. The themes to choose from are:Rainforest, Storm, Birds, Beach, Swamp, Night, Bonfire, Garden, Rain, Dolphins and Piano-Radio. The sounds are ultra relaxing, and can be listened to for ages. Anyone who has lived near the coast will particularly appreciate the Beach theme, so that once again you can fall asleep with the sound of the waves. It is the perfect site to open on your coffee break at work or even after a particularly stressful motorbike journey in the city. Put your headphones on and close your eyes.

78 asialife HCMC

boxoffice

Rock of Ages

Ice Age 4 Continental Drift

The Dark Knight Rises

The Dictator

Rock of Ages tells the story of small town girl Sherrie and city boy Drew, who meet on the Sunset Strip while pursuing their Hollywood dreams. Their rock 'n' roll romance is told through the heart-pounding hits of Def Leppard, Joan Jett, Journey, Foreigner, Bon Jovi, Night Ranger, REO Speedwagon, Pat Benatar, Twisted Sister, Poison, Whitesnake and more.

Scrat's nutty pursuit of the cursed acorn, which he's been after since the dawn of time, has world-changing consequences – a continental cataclysm that triggers the greatest adventure of all for Manny, Diego and Sid. In the wake of these upheavals, Sid reunites with his cantankerous Granny, and the herd encounters a ragtag menagerie of seafaring pirates determined to stop them from returning home.

In the third and final installment of Christopher Nolan’s Batman films, The Dark Knight Rises, takes place eight years after Batman took the fall for Two Face's crimes and is hunted as a fugitive. But the emergence of a new terrorist leader, Bane, overwhelms Gotham's finest, and the Dark Knight resurfaces to protect a city that has branded him an enemy.

Comic Sacha Baron Cohen re-teams with director Larry Charles (Borat, Bruno) for this satirical tale of an oppressive, democracy-hating dictator (played by Cohen) whose misadventures in America lead him to risk his life to ensure that democracy will never come to the country he so lovingly oppresses. Anna Faris, Ben Kingsley, and Curb Your Enthusiasm's J.B. Smoove co-star.

Opening Dates CINEMAS www.megastar.vn

Rock of Ages (13 July) 3D Ice Age Continental Drift (20 July) The Dark Knight Rises (27 July)

T: Thang Long

The Dictator (27 July)

M: Megastar Cinema

www.saigonmedia.com.vn

80 asialife HCMC

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf A Hologram for the King Dave Eggers McSweeney’s Books

Ever since bursting onto the literary scene with A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius, Dave Eggers has been a force in contemporary writing. Nearly 12 years later, Eggers exerts his author’s muscle again with A Hologram for the King. The novel demonstrates Eggers’ development, incorporating a more straightforward prose than the verbose, post-modern form of his first works. The story follows Alan Clay and his adventures in Saudi Arabia. With his finances in ruins, Clay places his hopes on selling a technology contract to the Saudi king, by convincing him with a hologram. The premise may sound ludicrous, but Eggers knows how to spin a clever, metaphorical yarn about today’s America.

Lionel Asbo Martin Amis Cape

Among Martin Amis’ many technical gifts is a genius for creating detestable yet enthralling characters. His 13th title is no exception. Like Keith Talent of 1989’s London Fields, the British novelist’s latest protagonist Lionel Asbo is not a likeable figure. A small time criminal from a fictional east London neighbourhood, Lionel’s luck changes when he wins millions from the lottery while in prison. Upon his release, Lionel takes up the high life of models and bottles, with tragicomedic consequences. Rife with razor-edged humour, Amis’ prose can be interpreted at best as shrewd and at worst as snarky. Still, with his unrivalled powers of pointed description, the British author remains an icon in his field for good reason.

End This Depression Now! Paul Krugman W. W. Norton & Company

Recession? Recovery? Depression? Ever since the onset of the global economic crisis in 2008, the state of the US economy – as well as the European economies – has been in question. Economic scientist and The New York Times columnist Paul Krugman explains why the economy remains in a depression, as well as calls for the government to take a change in economic policy in End This Depression Now! Although recovery – in part due to government bailout packages – can be applied to the experience of the country’s richest people and businesses, Krugman looks at the ongoing struggles of the population majority. Challenging the fiscal austerity approach, he prescribes a hearty dose of Keynesian stimulus.

Living, Thinking, Looking Siri Hustvedt Sceptre

Siri Hustvedt’s collection of essays is just what its straightforward title, Living, Thinking, Looking, implies. The book is divided into three germane sections, with focuses on Hustvedt’s own life, ruminations on memory and commentaries on art. Hovering between academia and novel writing, the author attempts to explore the human experience through a variety of scientific and creative disciplines. Her essays appeal to intellectual curiosities, while maintaining a plainspoken language that feels more personal than detached. Like one of the most agile female essayists, Joan Didion, Hustvedt finds a balance aimed to leave readers both enlightened and entertained. Although often overlooked, the essay remains a constructive literary form.

asialife HCMC 81

soundfix album review

The Mynabirds Generals

Singer-songwriter Laura Burhenn shows there’s no need to be passive about pacifism with Generals, her second album as The Mynabirds. The album takes its ironic inspiration from Richard Avedon’s 1963 photograph Generals of the Daughters of the American Revolution. In contrast to her debut, Burhenn tones down her Motown soul in favour of a more electric, rock tang. Her musical evolution comes poised as a revolution, with a sense of urgency and protest in her rhythms. Think a more soulful Lykke Li, a more melodic PJ Harvey and a more engaged The Kills. However, it’s the lull in the storm. ‘Mightier than the Sword’, with haunting background croons and gentle instrumentation, is Burhenn at her strongest. Like her labelmate and touring partner Bright Eyes, Burhenn creates metaphorical lyrics worth pondering, and references to Walt Whitman and Jean-Paul Sartre give the album greater weight.

82 asialife HCMC

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Waka Flocka Flame Triple F Life: Friends, Fans & Family

Waka Flocka Flame is all about his relationships. Or, that’s what he wants you to think with his sophomore album. Success in hip hop, perhaps more so than in any other genre, depends on making friends in high places.

As the protégé of Gucci Mane, Waka got a strong helping hand into the Southern gangsta rap scene. But rather than be overshadowed, Waka broke away from his mentor for Triple F Life and brought in guest stars who are largely on the up and up. His friendships seem strategic, including current cash cows Drake, Flo Rida, B.o.B. and Nicki Minaj, but also include a number of lesser-known talents like Wooh da Kid and Tyga. Although transparent in its crossover function, the album is more enjoyable than disappointing. Waka’s in a solid position to achieve his self-stated goal of becoming the “king of clubs”.

Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros Here

In 2009, Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros released the debut album, Up from Below. At that point, the group could very well be seen as underdogs. A ragtag alliance of musicians, playing songs that draw from blues, gospel and folk influences, Edward Sharpe didn’t seem a credible recipe for musical triumph.

But with the success of catchy single ‘Home’, and a role in the vanguard of bringing new folk music to the mainstream, the band have come back with a confident follow-up entitled Here. The group’s founder and leader Alex Ebert has a compelling vision – music which is anachronistic in sound and spirit but ultimately has carved out its own quirky niche in the modern market.

Beginning with a rousing ode to Johnny Cash in opener ‘Man of Fire’, Edward Sharpe delivers more of what the first album promised.

Fiona Apple

The Idler Wheel...

In a music industry oversaturated with largerthan-life characters and overdone albums, Fiona Apple is perhaps even more refreshing than ever. As a recent Atlantic article premised, Apple’s intensity has often been branded as craziness, but the label is an unjust response from a public that doesn’t quite know what to do with her.

Apple’s fourth album – which, in continuing her tradition of longwinded titles, is named The Idler Wheel is Wiser Than the Driver of the Screw and Whipping Cords Will Serve You More Than Ropes Will Ever Do – is well worth the seven year record hiatus. Apple has always used music not only as a medium to express herself but also as a vehicle to explore her own emotions, struggles and relationships.

Paired with stripped down piano and percussion with bluesy textured vocals, her lyrics – self-aware, confessional and poetic – will resonate with listeners who crave meaning.

endorsed

xoneFM top ten Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

title

artist

4 1 6 New New 3 New 9

Shooting Star Call Me Maybe Primadonna Everything Is Sound You Got A Way Never Close Our Eyes Home Safe & Sound

Re 2

Die In Your Arms Legendary Child

Owl City Carly Rae Jepsen Marina & the Diamonds Jason Mraz Kris Allen Adam Lambert Phillip Phillip Taylor Swift & The Civil War Justin Bieber Aerosmith

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

US Top 10 this last

week week 1 2

1 2

3

3

4

4

5 6 7 8 9 10

5 6 9 7 11 10

title Call Me Maybe Somebody That I Used To Know Payphone What Makes You Beautiful Starships We Are Young Where Have You Been Wild Ones Scream Boyfriend

artist Carly Rae Jepsen Gotye Maroon 5 feat Wiz Khalifa One Direction Nicki Minaj Fun feat Janelle Monae Rihanna Flo Rida feat Sia Usher Justin Bieber

Australia Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2 3

1 New 2

Whistle Hallelujah Payphone

4 5 6 7

3 4 5 8

Call Me Maybe Back In Time Wake Me Up Fighter

8 9 10

7 20 3

Lego House How We Do Pound The Alarm

artist Flo Rida Karise Eden Maroon 5 feat Wiz Khalifa Carly Rae Jepsen Pitbull Chris Brown Gym Class Heroes feat Ryan Tedder Ed Sheeran Rita Ora Nicki Minaj

Parks and Recreation

By Brett Davis Since Jerry Seinfeld and sidekicks George, Kramer and Elaine signed off for the final time in 1998, you could make a fair case that no other sitcom has come close to reaching that show’s dizzying heights or status as a cultural touchstone.

What we have had in the handful of best shows since then are critical darlings that barely register on the audience radar (Arrested Development, Community) or shows that exhibit great comedic chops early but seem to run out of steam after only a few seasons (30 Rock).

These are great shows, and there are still great examples of clever writing and perfectly timed comedic performances.

One example that comes to mind is Modern Family, the mocumentary-style show which follows the lives of an extended family.

Another show that uses this format is Parks and Recreation. Starring Saturday Night Live alum Amy Poehler, the show follows the adventures of the Parks and Recreation department in a small town in Middle America.

Poehler’s character Leslie Knope is the deputy director of the department and she is the axis around which the rest of the personnel revolve. She is hyper-driven but cares, probably a little too much, for her co-workers and her town.

The other members of the office represent some interesting tropes that poke gentle fun at government-worker stereotypes. There is the lifer

Gerry just trying to stay under the radar to retirement, young upstart Tom wanting to break out of bureaucratic life, sassy secretary Donna and morose intern April played with superb deadpan delivery by actress Aubrey Plaza.

My hands-down favourite character though has to be Leslie’s boss, Ron Swanson, portrayed by Nick Offerman as the epitome of self-sufficient manliness. An avowed libertarian, Ron likes breakfast foods, making things in his woodshop, burying gold in his yard and hates everything to do with government. “In my view, government should be a single guy alone in a room, deciding who to nuke,” he intones in an early episode.

What is nice about this show, other than the great writing and wonderful performances, is that despite often taking jabs at government inertia and small town politics the show does have heart. This sets it apart from other, admittedly still excellent, shows set in the halls of bureaucracy such as Armando Iannucci’s unapologetically cynical The Thick Of It or his new US comedy series Veep (coincidentally, starring Julia Louis-Dreyfus who played Elaine on Seinfeld).

With Parks and Recreation there is a warmth to the humour that keeps you along for the ride, because at the end of the day, despite mishaps, incompetence or general lethargy these people do try to make their little corner of the world a better place.

asialife HCMC 83

In her fervent attempts to speak Vietnamese, Dana Filek-Gibson succeeds. Sort of.

Back when my knowledge of this country was little more than a name on a map, I had visions of my own authentically Vietnamese experience: living in Saigon, flying around on a motorbike, eating pho, and befriending the locals. As with most visions, it was infinitely more glamourous than the reality. In none of my pre-Vietnam daydreams was I sweating so much, and there were far fewer hairs in my imaginary soup.

Nowadays, I would argue that it makes my actual experience more authentic than the vision I invented. Still, there are some aspects of the ‘real Vietnam experience’ on which I'm willing to compromise. For instance, who wants to pay the extra five dollars for a night bus from Nha Trang when you can get the ‘real Vietnam experience’ and spend 14 hours on a train with seats like park benches and several children sleeping at your feet? The answer is me; I want to pay that extra five dollars.

However, for all my compromises – not driving a motorbike, 84 asialife HCMC

refusing to try hot vit lon, paying VND 60,000 for a coffee that costs VND 8,000 on the street – there is one area in which I am unwilling to compromise: I will speak Vietnamese. Whether we're at the Caravelle or the banh mi stand outside the Caravelle, I am hell-bent on using the language I struggled for months to learn. Sometimes, this is met with enthusiasm, and sometimes it is like having a verbal fistfight with the other party.

“Hello,” the waitress chimes as I take a seat. It's Sunday and I'm between shifts at work.

Because I'm less concerned with the cost of lunch and more concerned with the availability of an internet connection, I have chosen a more expensive Vietnamese restaurant.

“Xin chao,” I reply. Before I can sit down, the waitress disappears, calling out in Vietnamese that she doesn't speak English and needs some help. I settle down and unpack my laptop, some textbooks, my day planner, and a notebook. I like to travel in a way that ensures that if

there were a fire in my apartment I would still have almost everything.

Seconds later, another waitress arrives with a menu. I sift through the chicken, beef, and pork sections. Just out of view, she is waiting for my order. I turn and ask for com trang and dau hu chien sa ot. In Vietnamese.

Again, coming from a family who brought their own snacks to the movie theatre, I didn't pay for a year of foreign language lessons to speak English.

As soon as the words come out, a smile flashes across her face. “So, you want white rice and tofu with chili and lemongrass?” Not only has it become a habit to say certain things in Vietnamese – food, for example, and directions, which I give exclusively to xe om drivers – I also believe that translating Vietnamese food into English makes it sound less appetizing. I nod, “Dung roi.”

“What size would you like?

Big or small?”

The menu folds in my hands.

“Nho,” I reply.

“So, small.”

We proceed like this, me ordering in Vietnamese, her parroting me in English. She collects the menu I strangled earlier and walks off. Later, when I'm asking for the bill, I ask the wrong waitress and she flees, terrified, in search of the other server. I repeat my request and, for once, she doesn't verbally translate but instead gives the international sign for “cheque bill” as confirmation.

On the way out, I make a point of saying “cam on.” To my surprise, she nods and replies with the fusion greeting common in Saigon restaurants, “Cam on thank you!”

I've had a lot of unrealistic visions of my life in Vietnam, but never in my wildest daydreams would I have counted getting a Vietnamese person to speak Vietnamese as a personal victory. Nothing, it turns out, is as you imagine it to be. Which would explain why I still can't cook and I'm seven sizes too big to buy clothes. Even so, I prefer the reality.

This Country Life Life in rural Vietnam could make an expatriate feel like a fish out of water, but Walter Pearson find his countryside existence has many blessings.

In the south, foreigners living outside Ho Chi Minh City usually end up in the Mekong Delta or by the sea at Nha Trang or Vung Tau. Either way, there’s usually pleanty of other expatriates nearby and the occasional western restaurant.

It is unusual for foreigners to live where I live. When I tell Vietnamese I live in Binh Long in Binh Phuoc province, they automatically mishear and think I live at Vinh Long. I repeat myself and most Vietnamese just give me a blank look. Then I say, “Next to Binh Duong.”

This provides us both with a face-saving device to smile and change the subject. If Vietnamese do know of Binh Long, they just laugh and say, “Ha! Rubber and cashews”.

Binh Long nestles in the foothills at the end of the Truong Son Range, red soil country useless for rice growing but ideal for enormous rubber plantations and plots of fruit trees including the cashews. The plains that spread out from the foothills make great tank country. That’s

why older people know Binh Long – although sometimes I have to use its former name – An Loc. During the 1972 Spring Offensive, for more than three months, a battle raged from the Cambodian border, about 35 kilometres to the north, along National Route 13 through the town of Loc Ninh to An Loc and beyond. During that battle, tanks were seen for the first time in southern Vietnam. The Liberation Forces took the area and set up their Provisional Revolutionary Government at Loc Ninh. Locals boast to me they were liberated long before Saigon; indeed the province, then Phuoc Long, was liberated in 1973.

Today, 58,000 people live in Binh Long. There are no white people here except me. And the Germans. But they don’t count.

They consult at the cement factory, allegedly for US $20,000 a month and only stay for short periods. The few English speakers I meet haven’t been able to practise much and we soon fall

back into Vietnamese.

The occasional foreigner will come to town for a couple of nights. There’s 'Tall David', who’s going out with Brave Cloud who works at a hotel in District 10, Ho Chi Minh City.

Brave Cloud’s family lives over the hill. Her father gets his money driving container trucks, her mother gives it away playing cards. Then there’s 'Construction Steve' who rides his Airblade the 120 kilometres up here to visit his friend the widow Proud Water who owns a coffee shop. Every so often friends come to visit me.

My Vietnamese wife refuses to live in the big smoke of Binh Long. Too many temptations for the children. The girl could go to coffee shops with boys. The boy could become addicted to on-line games. So we live in a hamlet three kilometres out of town in a compound the family carved out of the wild jungle in the 1990s. Brother Three, Sister Eight and Brother Nine live in the compound. Brother Seven has a farm on the top of the hill

above us. Brother Four is on the other side of a large paddock.

Brother Two is up the road.

Brother Five lives in Ben Cat 60 kilometres away towards Ho Chi Minh City.

I attend weddings, funerals and death day anniversaries; I have conversations about the relative economies of planting cashews or avocados, the poor returns on pigs and how many power outages we will have this year; I check out the two million dong fighting cocks next door; I report to the authorities every three months, play tennis every afternoon at four and most importantly listen to all the gossip about everyone in the village.

I also answer a lot of questions about whether we have this or that “over there” in Australia.

Riding along the ridge line looking across the beautiful green hills as they roll down to the plains I realise how blessed I am. The village coppers, who just got as drunk as I did at the wedding, are at home sleeping it off instead of out here checking for riders under the influence. asialife HCMC 85

pub quiz

Trains

Streched Celebrities 26)

6) In which Cambodian province can you ride on the bamboo train?

7) The Japanese JR-Maglev is the world's fastest train, what is the fastest conventional train?

8) Whose "Rocket" was built for, and won, the Rainhill Trials held by the Liverpool & Manchester Railway in 1829?

27) 9) Which locomotive is the holder of the official world speed record for steam locomotives?

10) Which band's debut single was ‘Last Train to Clarkesville’?

Automobiles 11) Which car company, popular in Cambodia, has a logo made up of three ovals?

12) Which German state is home to BMW? 13) Czech-based Skoda, is now a subsidiary of which manufacturing group?

14) Which car does James Bond drive most often in films?

15) Nhean Phaloek has hand-made three cars in Cambodia. What unsurprising name did he give them?

Summertime 16) Who co-wrote and recorded the song ‘Summertime Blues’?

17) What was the real name of The Bionic Woman?

18) In which year was The Summer of Love?

19) Who composed the music for the song ‘Summertime’ from the opera Porgy and Bess?

20) Which English playwright and novelist was a famous guest at the Hotel Le Royal?

Blues 21) Which Blues are the current holders of the English Premier League title?

86 asialife HCMC

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Contributing Editor: Michael Tatarski michael@asialifehcmc.com

Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com

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Pub Quiz Answers

1) If your planes lands in Changi airport, what country are you in?

2) Which country is home to Helvetic Airways?

3) Which company produces the A380, the world's largest airliner?

4) Which Cambodian flag carrier airline operated from 1994 to Oct. 16, 2001?

5) Which city has the world's busiest city airport system by passenger count?

22) Who wrote the music for the song ‘I Guess That's Why They Call It the Blues’?

23) Which 1980 film starred Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins?

24) ‘(Don't Fear) The Reaper’ is the best known song by which American band?

25) Who found international fame after her performance in The Blue Angel?

1) Singapore 2) Switzerland 3) Airbus 4) Royal Air Cambodge 5) London 6) Battambang 7) TGV 8) Robert Stephenson 9) The Mallard 10) The Monkees 11) Toyota 12) Bavaria 13) Volkswagen 14) Aston Martin 15) Angkor 16) Eddie Cochran 17) Jaime Sommers 18) 1967 19) George Gerschwin 20) W. Somerset Maugham 21) Manchester City FC 22) Elton John 23) The Blue Lagoon 24) The Blue Öyster Cult 25) Marlene Dietrich 26) Dolph Lundgren 27) Denise Richards 28) Winona Ryder 29) Tom Cruise 30) Robert Pattinson

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