Individual
responsibility
Congratulations
ISHCMC students,
parents and teachers for being the number 1
donor in HCMC to the Terry Fox Run, raising
over 160 million VND!
28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Ward, D2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84-8) 3898 9100 Email: admissions@ishcmc.edu.vn www.Facebook.com/ISHCMC
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AsiaLIFE volume 46
www.asialifehcmc.com
22 front
08 News & Events 12 Dispatches
food
42 Ciao Bella
16 Q&A with Juram Gavero
43 Swiss Chalet
on the cover
22 Ancient Traditions in a
storyboard
28 Micro Loans, Major Impact
style & design
Changing World
30 Fight Club
44 Sin City 46 Connoisseur: Stationery 48 Sweet Treats
back
52 The List 82 Spotlight
32 A Style all of its Own
84 Street Guide
34 The Smell of Success
91 The Two of Us 92 Keeping Tabs
36 Remembering Taiwan
94 Pub Quiz
38 Next Stop, Danang
38 Cover Model Giangie Trinh Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink
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41 Koto Saigon
13 Street Smart: Le Van Luong 18 Photo Essay: Park Life
getaways
40 Sterling's Saigon
48
note from the editor
Brett Davis
Holidays, chiefly those that are seen as central to a nation’s identity or culture, have a way of reflecting something of that country’s mood at a particular time in history. More than just another day off work, these occasions can act as a window into the collective soul of a people. In my home country, Australia, one of our most important holidays is called ANZAC Day which commemorates our troops’ first foray into the Great War, but is also the day where we pay respect to all the men and women who have served in our armed forces. In recent years, because of Australia’s involvement in East Timor, Afghanistan and Iraq, the day has had a resurgence of observance and respect not seen
since the years after the Second World War. There was a period of many years when this was not the case, particularly from the 1960s onwards, and reaching its nadir after Australia’s involvement in the war in Vietnam. Alan Seymour’s play One Day of the Year, written in 1958 charts the growing divide in the nation at the time about what it meant to fight in the name of a nation or empire. The play centres on the son of a returned serviceman and their polarised views of the significance of the day. The play is a reflection of how the country saw itself and its place in the world at the time, just as the great respect shown almost universally across the country towards ANZAC Day
Walter Pearson Walter Pearson is a journalist, documentary maker and tour guide. His connection with Vietnam goes back to his time in the Australian Army. He has worked as a broadcaster and current affairs journalist covering general news, politics and economics. He first returned to Vietnam in 1989 to cover the dedication of the Long Tan Cross, and has led various types of tours throughout the country since 2000 through his company Monkey Bridge Tours.
now is indicative of the current national frame of mind. In our cover story this month we have examined how the most important holiday on the Vietnamese calendar, Tet, is undergoing its own evolution. The forces of modernity and growing prosperity in Vietnam have wrought tremendous changes on this most traditional of occasions. Growing wealth has also lead to a sparsity of time, and how this holiday is celebrated reflects in many ways the face of Vietnam in the 21st Century. However, like most occasions that are integral to a nation’s culture and identity, though attitudes and practices change over time and feelings may wax and wane, some things will always be part of the fabric of a country.
Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.
Alex McMillan Alex McMillan is a high school literature teacher educated in the US, but he has an affinity for digital arts in audio production and photography. He has been travelling around and living in Asia for the last five years, three of which he has called Saigon his home. He has been photographing and blogging avidly for the last six years and his work can be seen at hcmctoday.com which features observations on Vietnamese daily life. 6 asialife HCMC
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NEWS ARC Pet of the Month
My name is Blacky and I’m one and a half years old. I was rescued from the street just before being sold to a dog meat restaurant. I have been treated for worms and fleas and have been neutered. I’ve had my first vaccination but will need another one soon. I am very friendly and get along fine with kids and cats. I love going for walks and especially love getting treats… I am looking for a family that has had experience with dogs, since I will need a bit of training. I could be a perfect family dog if you give me a chance. Contact Animal Rescue and Care at arcfostadopt@gmail. com or call 016 3487 7240.
Where to Find Operation: TEA
Operation: TEA’s line of high-end, whole leaf teas are now for sale at The Oasis Gourmet, located in An Phu’s Snap Café, 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, District 2. Operation: TEA can also be found in Phu My Hung at 3SK-23-1
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EVENTS Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, District 7. A large selection of teas from China and Japan are available. For a full list of offerings visit operationteavietnam.com, contact founder Sergey at 016 9358 3563 or send an email to sergey@operationteavietnam.com.
from 8 am until 9 pm and No Exit by the Saigon Players will be at 5 pm. Dance, music and poetry readings will occur at 6 pm. All proceeds go to Helping Hands Saigon. For details contact adam. zakharoff@boomarang.com.vn or saigonplayers@gmail.com.
La Vita E La Morte
A Mindful Start to the Year at Lyon Centre
Saigon Players and Boomarang Bistro are proud to present a charity event featuring visual and performing arts from January 13 to 15 . Visual artists include Sepi Johnson, Helene Kling, Ruby Do and several others. Performing artists will include Patrick Hughes, Brett Newski, teachers and students from The Performing Arts Academy of Ho Chi Minh City, and many others. On January 13 and 14, the art exhibit will last from 4 to 6 pm, and the performing arts show, No Exit by the Saigon Players, will happen at 7 pm. Dance, music and poetry readings will occur at 8 pm. On January 15, the art exhibit will run
A Mindfulness Meditation course will soon begin on Monday evenings from 7.30 pm until 9 pm. The course will include eight classes with a two-week break for US $120. For more information visit lyonyoga.com/en/page/66/ meditation-course.html. The Yoga/ Meditation course will return on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings from 7 pm until 9.30 pm. A beginner class will be held on Wednesdays from 7 pm until 9.30 pm and an advanced class on Tuesdays. The Y/M courses will comprise eight classes with a two-week break and will cost $136. For more information visit
lyonyoga.com/en/page/62/yogameditation-course.html.
Hospitality Asia Platinum Award to Vietnam’s InterContinental Venues
Vietnam’s two leading luxury hotels, InterContinental Asiana Saigon and InterContinental Hanoi Westlake, managed by IHG, were recognised at the prestigious Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards (HAPA) – Regional Series 2011/ 2013 in Singapore. The InterContinental Asiana Saigon and the InterContinental Hanoi Westlake were both Platinum winners of HAPA Service Excellence, HAPA Best Concierge, HAPA Signature Business Hotel, HAPA Hotel of the Year, and HAPA Vietnam Hotel Excellence (HAPA Regional Series 2011-2013).
Reiki Course from Master Lee Wei-De Reiki Master Lee Wei-De (Steve for friends) will again teach Reiki to those who are interested in
becoming a healer and expanding their power. Reiki is an energy healing treatment that works holistically—on the whole body, mind and spirit. Steve will be at Lyon Centre from January 11 until the 20. Attend Reiki 2, Advanced Healer classes on January 12 and 13 for $500. Attend Reiki 1, Basic Healer on the 14 and 15 for $300. Attend Reiki 3, Reiki Master on the 16 and 17 for $800 and attend another Reiki 1 on the 16 and 17 for $300. During his stay, Reiki treatments by Master Lee Wei De will be available for $85 each. To register send a note to monique@ lyonyoga.com.
Korean Air Will Store Your Winter Coat
Korean Air will provide a free coat storage service at Incheon International Airport for passengers leaving Korea for warmer locales until February 29. Passengers simply show their boarding pass at Hanjin Express counter located in Area A of the passenger terminal on the third floor of Incheon International Airport. For additional details visit koreanair.com.
Relocation of Australian Consulate-General Ho Chi Minh City The Australian Consulate-General of HCM City is relocating to Vincom Center, 20/F, 47 Ly Tu Trong Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1. The telephone number is 08 3521 8100 and facsimile is 08 3521 8101. For further information please visit hcmc.vietnam. embassy.gov.au.
AOC Granted to VietJetAir The Civil Aviation Administration of Vietnam (CAAV) has just granted the Aircraft Operation Certificate (AOC) to VietJetAir. The event marks Vietnam’s second low-cost airline’s official entry into the Vietnam aviation market. Initially, VietJetAir will operate four flights between HCM City and Hanoi per day. The number will be increased to 14 in early 2012 with the HCM City—Danang route to be launched in early 2012. The airline will also be the first private carrier planning to operate international routes from HCM City to other big cities in Asia from the middle of 2012. For additional details email kieuduong@vietjetair.com.
News from the 25th Anniversary Phuket King’s Cup Regatta Asian teams came to the fore at the 25th Anniversary Phuket
King’s Cup Regatta with wins by Thailand and Japan. The IRC 1 Class was arguably the most competitive of all with 13 boats and sailors of 17 different nationalities. Winning entry ‘Karasu’ is the first-ever all-Japanese team to win their class at the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta. Thailand scored a magnificent victory in IRC 2 Class, as Chief Petty Officer First Class Wiwat Poonpat’s team on ‘Royal Thai Navy 1’ honoured His Majesty the King of Thailand with a clear class win. In the Kiteboard Class, Thai star and two-time Asian Champion, Narapichit Pudla, finished second overall. 2011 was the 25th anniversary of the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta. The event attracted the largest fleet in the competition’s history with 91 keelboats and multihulls, 38 dinghies and 19 kiteboards, and over a thousand sailors from 33 countries across the globe. For more information, visit kingscup.com.
Dancenter to Open its Doors in the Crescent Mall
Dancenter will open its doors in District 7’s Crescent Mall in February. Contact Dancenter now to receive more information on classes. District 2’s new classes include New Beginners Adult Ballet on Mondays at 7 pm with Rosie. The new Salsa Class for Absolute Beginners is also on offer. The trial class, for 150,000 VND, will happen on Wednesday January 11 at 7.10 pm, and will be taught by Lissette Garcia, lead singer and dancer from the Warapo Band. Learn very basic footwork, turns, patterns, shines and be introduced to proper posture, basics of leading and following and great salsa music. A six-week course is $70. Dancenter is located at 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2. Call 08 3519 4490 or visit dancentervn.com.
Hotel Equatorial Launches Flo Lobby Lounge
Flo Lobby Lounge, which just opened in December, brings with it a premium lounge experience, combining contemporary interior design, premier drink service and superb live performances. The delicate Lotus flower stands behind Flow’s interior design concept. Flo seats 60 people and boasts a stage for live music, a curvy chic bar area, and a glass wine cabinet that stores 150 bottles of fine wines from the world’s top wine-growing regions. During the first two months of opening, Flo asialife HCMC 9
ACG HCMC3.pdf
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11:05:19 AM
Australian Consulate-General Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
RELOCATION OF AUSTRALIAN CONSULATE-GENERAL HO CHI MINH CITY The Australian ConsulateGeneral in Ho Chi Minh City has relocated to new premises
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VINCOM CENTER, 20/F 47 Ly Tu Trong Street, Ben Nghe Ward, District 1. Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Telephone: (84-8) 3521 8100 Fascimile: (84-8) 3521 8101
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TRUÏ SÔŒ MÔÙI CUŒA TOÅNG LAÕNH SÖÏ QUAÙN UÙC TAÏI THAØNH PHOÁ HOÀ CHÍ MINH Toång Laõnh Söï Quaùn UÙc taïi thaønh phoá Hoá Chí Minh xin thoâng baùo đã dôøi đến truï sôœ môùi taïi: VINCOM CENTER, TAÀNG 20 47 L×yù Töï Troïng, Phöôøng Beán Ngheù, Quaän 1 Thaønh phoá Hoà Chí Minh, Vieät Nam Ñieän thoaïi: (84-8) 3521 8100 Fax: (84-8) 3521 8101 www.hcmc.vietnam.embassy.gov.au
presents nightly performances from the band Esther Flatters and The Jazz Hats, newly in from Europe. Flo is open daily from 9 am. It closes from Sunday to Thursday at midnight and on Friday and Saturday at 1 am.
Hotel Nikko Saigon Opening Promotion
Newly opened Hotel Nikko Saigon is owned by Fei Yueh Vietnam Co, Ltd and is JAL Hotels’ second property in Vietnam. The five-star venue, situated in District 1, has 23 floors above ground, with 334 guestrooms and 53 serviced apartments. Guests staying on the Nikko Club Floors will receive additional privileges such as complimentary access to the Nikko Club Lounge where breakfast, afternoon tea and snacks will be offered. To celebrate the opening, a special package will be available until January 31 and will include buffet breakfast, complimentary WiFi in guest rooms, use of The fitness club and outdoor swimming pool, 15% discount on food and beverages at La Brasserie and complimentary parking. For more information, call 08 3925 7777 or email sales@ hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn.
Arts for Mobility
The 4th annual Arts for Mobility art exhibition and concert was incredibly successful. Ticket and art sales were used to manufacture 100 wheelchairs, which will be distributed soon. A 5th Arts for Mobility event will happen on Saturday, November 17 at the Opera House. More details closer to the date.
More than Zero
The bright new eatery Zero has just thrown open its doors at 15 Dong Du in District 1. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day of the week, the menu is an eclectic mix of western and Asian influences from AustralianVietnamese chef Kevin Le. There is a two course set lunch for 195,000VND while dinner features international tapas. The venue looks striking thanks in part to the artwork of Helene Kling adorning the walls. The pieces are for sale so you can take one home with your leftovers. Also, unusually for Saigon, the venue is non-smoking, although there is a balcony area on the upper floor for those who feel the need to indulge.
Fusion Maia Da Nang on DestinAsian Luxe List 2011
Award-winning travel magazine DestinAsian has revealed its 8th annual list of Luxe new hotels and resorts in the Asia-Pacific region. Each was visited by one of the magazine’s contributors and subsequently scrutinized before the winners were selected. Fusion Maia Da Nang is proud to have made it onto this Luxe list, alongside An Lam Ninh Van Bay Villas and Six Senses Con Dao.
Opening Mua Dining & Café
Situated at 63B Tran Quoc Thao in District 3, Mua Dining & Café is a new rendez-vous spot for Saigon foodies. The space at Mua is decorated in green with beautiful pictures on the walls both outside
Le Bouchon de Saigon Now Open
A fantastic new French restaurant has just opened in a prime District 1 location—40 Thai Van Lung, next to the Sophia Hotel. High quality homemade cuisine and a friendly ambience are sure to make Le Bouchon a popular spot among locals and expats alike. Led by chefs David Thai and Alexis Melgrani, Le Bouchon boasts an experienced, dynamic team. Just remember: "What happens in Le Bouchon Stays in Saigon.”
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and indoor. Mua Dining & Café has a small yard in the front, a dining room, and a mezzanine with Japanese-style tables and a VIP room. Mua serves a variety of Vietnamese dishes from three regions. Must-try dishes
include Mua’s special salad, duck cooked with sau (a kind of sour fruit in Hanoi), mi Quang, and Phan Thiet special hot pot. Prices starts at 35,000 VN per dish. Call 08 6673-3350 or 09 8488 8123.
FINE CUISINE GOUP opens two food outlets in HCM City
A Scent-sational Line from The Body Shop
Inspired by Hanami, the traditional Japanese custom of appreciating the short-lived but intensely beautiful blooming cherry blossoms, The Body Shop has created an enchanting limited edition fragrance range. Japanese Cherry Blossom includes notes of Fuji apple, Chinese magnolia, Japanese cherry blossom, persimmon and sandalwood. Products in the range also include an assortment of Community Trade ingredients, benefitting those in Brazil and Zambia. Japanese Cherry Blossom eau de toilette, body butter, bath and shower gel, body lotion, and other products are available on District 1’s Mac Thi Buoi Street.
FINE CUISINE GROUP has launched Koh Thai at Level 1 of the Kumho Asiana Plaza (Le Duan, District 1). Koh Thai, meaning ‘Thai Island’, was inspired by the new wave of lavish Thai bars and restaurants in Bangkok. The restaurant/ bar exudes contemporary yet authentic Thai style. The eatery’s talented chefs—together with friendly staff—offer guests a sophisticated ambiance for reasonable prices. Koh Thai’s drink menu, designed by cocktail pioneer Richie Fawcett from London, is an alluring mix of Asian originals and re-vamped classics. FINE CUISINE GROUP has also opened Hot Pot Train in the cuisine area of Kumho Asiana Plaza. The restaurant’s unique design—and servers’ conductor uniforms—makes it look like a train station. Diners start their meals by selecting their preferred broth—from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style—then they can customise their own individual pot.
Celebrate the Year of the Dragon at Shang Palace Restaurant with full of joyful ambiance and our fabulous menu specially presented by our 5 head chefs from Hong Kong.
From 1 5 Jan to 0 6 Fe b 2012 1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 - Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn - Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn
Yu Sheng holding “Abundance” raw salmon mixed with eye-catching shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces, or Prosperous Big Bowl Feast containing premium ingredients delicately displayed layer by layer, along with Lunar New Year Special Mixed Meat Platter and Lunar New Year pastry (Banh To) for a perfect dessert. Don’t miss the Lion dance at 12pm on the 1st day of the Lunar New Year to start a prosperous year.
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dispatches
Travel news from around the region and beyond
A Journey Through India
Until March 31, Oberoi Hotels and Resorts is providing custom itineraries of colourful India. Choose from one of Oberoi’s suggested itineraries or create your own for six or more nights. Participating hotels include The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra; The Oberoi, New Delhi; and The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata. Their travel management team can assist you in planning domestic air and road travel. Pay US $4,495 for six nights’ accommodation in a Premier Room for two, $5,900 for eight nights, $7,135 for 10 and $8,265 for 12. The offer includes daily breakfast, complimentary transfers between airport or railway station and hotel, and applicable taxes. Enjoy an upgrade to a suite if you stay more than 12 nights. To reserve send an email to reservations@oberoigroup.com or visit oberoihotels.com.
Early Bird Booking Special with Raffles
Located in the heart of Siem Reap, a mere eight kilometres from magnificent Angkor Wat, the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor offers convenient access to some of the most fascinating ruins. Select from a wide variety of accommodation types—from landmark rooms to two-bedroom villa suites and everything in between—starting at US $285. Book in advance and enjoy 10 percent off the best available rate (for 14 days in advance) and 20 percent off (for 30 days advance). The offer includes daily champagne breakfast. And, if you book online at raffles.com, enjoy some extra benefits: unlimited wireless internet access, daily in-room tropical fruit platter, and an on-site historical tour by their resident historian. For more information contact siemreap@ raffles.com or visit raffles.com/siem-reap/.
Robison Crusoe Revisited
The adjectives ‘idyllic’ and ‘heavenly’ are often misused but not so for The Naka Island Resort. Located on a private, Robinson Crusoe-like island just off the coast of Phuket and only accessible by speedboat, Naka’s main attraction is its stunning natural environment. Unspoiled sandy beaches backed by lush coconut groves and commanding views of the Andaman Sea make for a unique getaway. The resort is also home to the region’s largest five-star luxury spa. Formerly a Six Senses wellness retreat, the property recently re-branded itself to an all pool-villa resort, and is now managed by the Starwood Group. The resort has a special opening offer of 9,000+ THB per night, which includes breakfast for two. For more information visit nakaislandphuket. com or call +66 76371 400 – Ellen Boonstra
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street smart:
LE VAN LUONG,
DISTRICT 7
From purchasing flowers to playing paintball, Alex McMillan explores the many offerings on District 7's chaotic Le Van Luong. Street carts All along the street There is a variety of food and services on the street with roving carts in a constant parade, their traffic peaking in the morning. Some notables are
fresh, hot soya milk in the morning and stewed intestine with baguette at night (a favourite of students). While you’re there, why not get your old jeans hemmed into shorts for 10,000 VND?
Com Binh Dan Next to 348 Le Van Luong One of best things about the street is its abundance of cheap diners that cater to workers with inexpensive meals, which often come in sets. Look for a shop
with a sign that says Com Binh Dan which translates into 'cheap meal'. Order a dish that looks good and they will often serve rice, soup, and pickles along with your main. Prices vary but tend to be around 20,000 asialife HCMC 13
VND for a filling meal. Trung Tam Ban Sung Son 300 Le Van Luong An exciting part of the street is the new outdoor paintball arena that is currently under construction. There are lots of obstacles and structures, making it a unique and exciting place to hang out with your friends. Since it’s still being 14 asialife HCMC
built, the manager recommends checking back after Tet holiday to nail your friends for fun. Chi Toi 254 Le Van Luong There are a few coffee shops in the area, but the one with the nicest atmosphere is a garden cafe which is tucked away off the street. At first sight, there
doesn’t seem to be much there, but upon closer inspection, you’ll find a relaxing greenspace to enjoy an iced coffee. Look closely because it’s behind an unassuming parking area. Bo To Tay Ninh 228 Le Van Luong Tay Ninh is the district north of the airport which is famous for
its veal. This shop often has a spit roast out in front, grilling meat freshly over charcoals. Come and try their family recipe. Market Across from 63/8 Le Van Luong Open from morning until evening, there is a small market place with a friendly group of locals hocking fruit, flowers, che and more. It’s a nice
change of pace from the Ben Thanh Market in that people seem more than happy to pose for pictures and have a chat without pressuring you to buy their wares. Suc Song Moi OK 01 Le Van Luong At the end of the street, where there is a T-intersection in front of the river, is this condom shop that touts condoms sold individually and in bulk. Just
look for the place with the pink florescent light on and the suggestive painting of a woman. Be prepared, they are only open evenings. Club 396 396 Le Van Luong If you’re itching for something to do at night you can hit up this disco. Formerly known as Paradise, 396 features a myriad of DJs both local and foreign with reasonable drink prices.
Elegant surroundings, great location, professional service and finest cuisine... All you can find at Norfolk Hotel. 117 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
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Michael Tatarski sits down with the Filipino musician who has become a pillar of the local music scene. Photo by Fred Wissink.
How did you end up in Ho Chi Minh City? I’ve been here 12 years now. I had been playing in Singapore for a while, when I got an offer from a Singaporean who owned a bar here to come to Vietnam. I’ve been living in the city ever since. What musical styles have most influenced you? I would say a little bit of everything, but right now I’m focused on alternative rock, especially from the early 90’s, specifically groups like Metallica, Nirvana, and Pearl Jam. That was really the last good music scene. Great music is coming back now though, especially with bands like Muse, the Kings of Leon, and the Killers gaining fame in the last few years. How are audiences here reacting to that type of music? Audiences, and the scene in general, here are way different right now compared to, say, eight years ago. Back then here was no challenge, since there were almost no bands. But now Ho Chi Minh City is booming. You’ve got new venues like the Hard Rock Cafe and another bar opening in the Bitexco Financial Tower, as well as a few others. There are more people coming in so more new music is being introduced. It can be harder now to get people into alternative music, but the city is getting there. The locals are more open to different styles, so they are adapting new kinds of music. Eight years ago it was just me and one other musician! Where do you see the city’s live music scene going in the next five years? It’s going to get a lot bigger.
When I first moved here it was at least 20 years behind the West, but now I’d say it’s only five years behind Europe and the U.S. With all of the new venues and bands and technology, it’s catching up! What is your favorite venue here? My favorites used to be Vasco’s and Pacharan, but there is a small bar on De Tham called Thi Café that recently opened, and it’s great. A friend of mine opened it, and it just has a good atmosphere, a good vibe. It’s in the Pham Ngu Lao area, so there’s always a mix of people: expats, tourists, and others, and it’s a really interesting place to play. Do you collaborate with any Vietnamese bands? I used to work with a lot through Acoustic. I would play some shows and host a few events, but right now I’m concentrating more on corporate gigs. For example, I’ve played in Cambodia, Singapore, and Thailand, and I will be traveling to those countries more in the future. How does performing in Vietnam compare to playing in other parts of Southeast Asia? Well, Vietnam is my home now, so I’m pretty spoiled here since everybody knows me. It’s always a fun night when I play here, and I have an advantage since I’ve been around for such a long time. I enjoy my performances here more than in other countries, since they are more laid-back and chill. I’m not under any pressure. It’s almost like singing in your living room.
Is there any country or city you hope to be able to play in one day? I’ve always been fascinated by the music scene in the United Kingdom. I’ve been there a couple of times, and I would love to contribute something, or share and show myself there. Why not? Can you tell us a bit about your band? Yea, it’s still called Juram, which I chose since when I first came here I only played solo. Then another musician met me and said “Why don’t we play together?” So it became two, then three, and we went from there. We never got the chance to change the name; I know it sounds selfish. I tried to change it once, to the Rat Pack, but people didn’t understand the name. One bar owner even said, “Why would you change the name? No one will come to your shows now.” Again, it sounds selfish, but it’s good for business since it’s so recognizable. How often do you play with the band, and how often do you play solo? Since the band only has three members, it’s really easy to find places to play, so I perform with them for most shows. You’re well known for covering music, but do you have any plans for an album of original material? That’s the next step. I’m going to get old, and I don’t want to cover music forever. I need to work on it, and there are more recording studios opening up here, so the process will only become easier. asialife HCMC 17
PARK LIFE
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O
nce a busy train route on the west side of Manhattan, the elevated rail line cutting through the heart of the Chelsea neighborhood has been reincarnated into High Line Park. Popular with locals and tourists alike, the park is busy all year round. This is an unusual but welcome space in a city famous for being all concrete and skyscrapers. Photographs by Ceridwyn Asher.
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ANCIENT TRADITIONS IN A CHANGING WORLD Tet is the oldest and most important holiday in Vietnam. Think of Christmas, New Year’s and your birthday all rolled into one, and you can begin to understand the gravity of the occasion. However, like many long-held traditions the world over, the modern incarnation of Tet is buffeted by forces unimagined centuries, or even only decades, ago. To put it in a western perspective, when was the last time you thought of Christmas as the most important day of religious observance on the Christian calendar? The big guy in the red suit and commercial considerations long ago gained the ascendancy on that particular holiday. The more recent emergence of Vietnam into the world economy and the resulting benefits for the prosperity of the country’s population are now affecting the traditional practices and traditions of Tet. Yet however much these things change, there seems little possibility the Lunar New Year celebrations will ever been displaced from their central place in Vietnamese culture. By Brett Davis and Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink.
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“IN THE PAST AS PEOPLE PREPARED FOR TET, ONE WOULD HEAR AND SMELL TET EVERYWHERE IN THE WEEKS BEFORE.”
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The most integral holiday on the Vietnamese calendar, Tet is a time steeped in tradition and ritual. For most people the celebrations have long been based around family, honouring ancestors and sending good wishes for prosperity in the new year. But like so many aspects of life in this country, the onrush of modernity and increasing prosperity has affected many of the practices and attitudes surrounding the holiday. Indeed, in some ways it is charting a course similar to Christmas in western countries where to many it is just another holiday on the calendar. More Prosperity, Less Time Le Duc Tan, the managing editor of Vietnam Heritage magazine, which publishes Englishlanguage articles with a focus on Vietnamese culture, says this is partly due to the fact Vietnam is growing economically. “The higher pace of the industrial life compared to agricultural life has resulted in some changes,” he says. “Instead of spending time to prepare Tet more and more people tend to buy it.”
Tan says these better living standards allow people to buy everything they need for the holiday instead of making it, which is something that has changed the whole atmosphere of Tet. “In the past as people prepared for Tet, one would hear and smell Tet everywhere in the weeks before,” he says. “Now as people buy it, that atmosphere is gone.” Doan Mai Anh, a lecturer at RMIT University Vietnam, says one of her chief memories of the Tet holidays of her childhood was making the traditional banh chung, the sticky rice cakes filled with beans or meat and wrapped in dong leaves. “Days were spent preparing the banh chung cakes,” says Doan. “It is a very long process. "Since one family would host this event, they would make the cake for everyone. So we took turns. It was a lot of fun, to make the sweets ourselves. “We didn’t have many things at that time. So it was exciting, we would get new clothes and see people we didn’t normally see,” she says.
However, time, or the lack of, has taken its toll on some elements of the Tet celebrations. Doan says her family has not made banh chung for many years because it is too time consuming. Even her mother, whom Doan describes as a very traditional person, now says she is too tired to prepare for the Tet festivities. Greater wealth has given many people a way around the obligations attached to the holiday. Doan says she has noticed, particularly in the south, more people travelling overseas or to other vacation destinations. “[It is] more like a holiday rather than just a Tet holiday. People go travelling to avoid the burdensome task of Tet,” she says. The increased living standard among many urban Vietnamese also has some benefit for the holiday itself. Traditional festivals, both in the cities and villages, have been revived and are becoming bigger and more popular thanks to money spent by the growing number of wealthy Vietnamese. Despite the fact that Tet appears to be diverging from tradition, especially with
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“IT'S THE TIME FOR PEOPLE TO BE TOGETHER WITH THEIR FAMILIES.”
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younger Vietnamese, it is still an important time of year, says 24-year-old Bui Quang Hieu. Hieu, who was born in the northern port city of Hai Phong before moving with his family to Vung Tau then Saigon, is a student and part-time writer. He says Tet is a very positive time of year for him and his friends, even though he has seen it already change in his lifetime. “It's true that many old customs and practices which were perceived to be the musts and norms of Tet just 20 years ago are being forgotten or abandoned,” he says. “On the other hand new practices are also becoming integrated into Tet.” Tet, like the rest of Vietnamese culture, has a long history, and one that is constantly changing. Hieu says the change Tet has undergone in recent history is just the natural progression of society. Regardless of how Tet is viewed, it is still an important part of Vietnamese culture. “It's the time for people to be together with their families,” Hieu says. “It's a chance to have all old-year problems solved in
harmony. It's a chance either to improve relationships or earn money. It is time for parties and travelling. It can also be simply a time for a calm rest.” Adding Up the Cost Lucky money, or li xi, the giving of money as a gift, is a popular part of Tet, both in the past and today. Originally, lucky money was a symbol, says Tan, but today it is just another excuse to get money. However, he says that is not necessarily a bad thing. “The older generations have spent so much time in conflict, with repeated wars and governments changing, that they send their children to the cities to study or find work,” Tan says. “Tet is a perfect opportunity for these younger generations to pay tribute to their families that are still in the countryside.” Tan believes gifts and money are more important in today’s Tet than in the past because they help to strengthen relationships that would normally be closer in a traditional society. Likewise, Doan believes the practice of giving li xi is increasingly about the value
rather than an expression of goodwill. She says this can sometimes lead to awkward situations if it is perceived the gift is insufficient. “It is not a token gesture anymore,” she says. However, gifts of money to younger members of the family is only the tip of the iceberg in terms of the true cost of Tet, where entertaining large numbers of visiting relatives can run up to the equivalent of several months wages. The Tet holidays are big business for the food and beverage sector. Tet-specific advertising campaigns begin six to eight weeks before the new year in anticipation of the buying frenzy. Ralf Matthaes has lived in Vietnam since the mid-90s and runs market research firm TNS. He says the levels of spending on items like beer, spirits and confectionary skyrocket over the Tet period. “If you compare month to month, there is like a 250 percent spike,” he says. “It’s the things that you entertain with that spike heavily.” He also notes there is considerable brand
upgrading during the holiday. For example, if someone normally drinks 333 brand beer, they might opt for Tiger or Heineken at this time of year. As he points out, this is fairly similar to what would happen in other countries at Christmas time. “You are marking a special occasion, so you need to have something special.” “It is a big celebration. I always say that Tet is like Christmas, Halloween, New Years birthday, your Bar Mitzvah and whatever else all rolled into one, because it is the one family holiday in Vietnam.” Matthaes says he has no doubt Vietnamese people look forward to Tet, and it is a central part of what makes Vietnam the country it is. However, he believes these days the celebrations have become more onerous, more costly, and have perhaps lost some of their intrinsic qualities. “Family values aren’t nearly as close as they used to be because economic survival is not as necessary as it used to be. The family is still the cornerstone, but in the old days the family was the cornerstone not just for family values but for
economic reasons. Now there is less need for the economic reasons. “But I don’t think [Tet] will be supplanted by any stretch of the imagination, the only thing is it is more burdensome today. And that is in large part because of the expectations that come along with it. Perhaps the best perspective on the changing nature of the New Year festivities comes from someone who has seen more than most. Nguyen Huu Ngoc is 93-yearsold and is the author of the book Tet: The Luna New Year. He says, via an interpreter, that in the old days Tet was about the bond between family members and the community, remembering ancestors and having optimism about the year to come. Unfortunately, he believes much of this spirit is now obsolete. “There is a lavishness about the money in some activities,” he says. “Tet today concentrates on the formality so much, they forget the simple meaning of Tet. “I always hope Tet will keep the spirit of the old days.”
"THE FAMILY IS STILL THE CORNERSTONE, BUT IN THE OLD DAYS THE FAMILY WAS THE CORNERSTONE NOT JUST FOR FAMILY VALUES BUT FOR ECONOMIC REASONS."
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Hanoi-based microfinance tour group, Bloom Microventures, provides an innovative and effective way for participants to become personally engaged in the fight against poverty. By Madeleine Adamson. Photo by Fred Wissink.
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or most of us, access to credit and financial services is vital in order to receive an education or start a small business. Sadly, the billions of people worldwide with no access to traditional financial services are left behind. Eighteen months ago, while studying at the London School of Economics, Felix Baden-Powell, Malte Hoepfner and Lain Heringman co-founded a nonprofit social enterprise, Bloom Microventures. Their aim was to tackle poverty by combining microfinance with responsible tourism. “We were captivated by the idea of social entrepreneurship and sought to start something of our own, which operated under business principles,” explains Baden-Powell. “We felt that having benefited from a world-class education, we had a responsibility to help those who have been left behind in a world of such wealth and opportunity. We also sought to address the criticisms of high interest rates in microfinance, and lack of sustainability in the tourism industry. By funding our microfinance operations through responsible tourism we have provided exciting opportunities in both fields and created our unique product: microfinance tours.” Baden-Powell explains that almost $300 billion is spent annually on tourism in developing countries—almost three times as much as official development assistance. “In 2010, tourists spent US $5 billion in Vietnam. We felt there was a tremendous untapped possibility to use tourism to help those living in poverty,” he says. In the late seventies, the concept of microfinance started to gain momentum in Bangladesh thanks to Muhammad Yunus, whose work earned him the 2006 28 asialife HCMC
Nobel Peace Prize. The main principle behind microfinance is that many people living in poverty have remarkable business ideas that require relatively small amounts to get going. Unfortunately, these people do not have access to traditional banking services because they have no collateral to secure against the loan as protection in the case of their defaulting. Banks do not want to risk losing their money. What’s more, the sums involved are typically so small that it costs them a great deal to service large numbers of small loans. Thus, these marginalised people never receive help. Microfinance gives those who lack access to normal banks a chance to accumulate money for the first time. ‘Micro’ loans are given to small groups of borrowers, or ‘micro’ entrepreneurs, who take responsibility for each member’s loans, resulting in repayment rates that are usually higher than those of traditional banks. “We currently have a loan portfolio of fifty female borrowers, with 100% repayment. Each woman was directly funded through a microfinance tour,” says Baden-Powell. Since Bloom Microventures uses tourism revenue to finance their social business, they are not dependent on interest repayments. Thus, they can charge lower interest rates and focus on providing microcredit to the poorest of the poor—a group often excluded from traditional microfinance. The group’s poverty-fighting day tours take place in Soc Son, 40 kilometres north of Hanoi. While experiencing a beautiful part of Vietnam, guests also meet industrious farmers and entrepreneurs and hear about their plans to enhance their livelihoods. Through the help of
translators, visitors learn about the realities disadvantaged women face here in Vietnam, not to mention local history and religious customs. Alongside the borrowers, guests can take part in rice and tomato farming and other agricultural activities. A traditional Vietnamese lunch takes place at the house of the Local Women’s Union head. All of Bloom’s borrowers are rural Vietnamese women and their main source of income is farming. “With the microloan, they have been able to generate additional income by investing in pigs, chickens, ducks, geese, and vegetable farming. Some of our borrowers have strategically invested the loans in more than one venture to diversify their income and have achieved significant results,” says Baden-Powell. The percentage of tourist fees going directly to the borrowers depends on the number of guests. Baden-Powell breaks it down: “Each tour finances a lowinterest microloan of two million VND (approximately US $100) for a woman we meet on the day of the tour. The tour price includes a contribution of between US $50 (in case you’re two people) and US $10 (if you’re 10 people) per person. Any profit from the tours goes back to our charity to help finance further loans, training sessions, operational expenses, and the expansion of our activities to other marginalised communities.” Word about Bloom Microventures is spreading rapidly. In fact, numerous glowing reviews have allowed the organisation to become TripAdvisor’s second most popular tour in Hanoi. Impressive feedback includes one comment from Ms Edelgard Bulmahn, Member of the German Bundestag and former Federal Minister of Education and
Research. Bulmahn described her day tour as, “A unique and amazing experience… Furthermore, my tour fees helped make a difference to the lives of the local microcredit borrowers I personally met. I would highly recommend this tour!” Despite Bloom Microventures’ current success, putting the model in place was far from a cakewalk. “To actually start our project we had to raise the initial capital to put our ideas into action. We spent a lot of time designing and executing our fundraising strategies as well as applying for competitions,” says Baden-Powell. “Plus, learning how to operate in a new environment brings new challenges, but with the help of our local partner, and the Vietnamese we work with, we have been able to overcome most of them.” At the moment, Bloom’s passionate team of six comprises members from five different countries. A great deal of preparation goes into organising each microfinance tour. Bloom's dedicated field staff, Van Nguyen and Anupama Ramaswamy, spend countless hours recruiting new borrowers, assisting to develop their business ideas and explaining to them the benefits of the program. When asked if the charity has plans to expand, Baden-Powell answers enthusiastically, “We like to think big but start small! We would love to set up in more areas around Hanoi, in Hoi An and other exciting places in Vietnam. Ultimately, our vision is to expand throughout Asia and eventually see our microfinance tours all over the world in places where there is need.” To learn more about Bloom Microventures, visit bloom-microventures.org or send an email to info@ bloom-microventures.org.
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With the microloan, they have been able to generate additional income by investing in pigs, chickens, ducks, geese, and vegetable farming. Some of our borrowers have strategically invested the loans in more than one venture to diversify their income and have achieved significant results. Baden-Powell
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A karate club in District 2 offers a way to cope with the frustrating aspects of life in Vietnam, while improving the body and mind. By Chris Mueller. Photos by Fred Wissink. We’ve all been there, ready to roundhouse kick a man after he almost T-bones you while you’re at a red light because he needed to get there five seconds faster. Or on the verge of fighting an old woman when she tries to shove you out of the way so she can get on the elevator before you can get off. With all its endearing qualities, Vietnam can be a frustrating place to live and work, but we do it. Most of us don’t do it because we have to, but because there is something about this country that keeps us here. We all find different ways to cope with the frustration. Some make bars their second homes. Others travel, experiencing new and exciting things, having positive experiences that far outweigh the negatives. But one group of friends in Ho Chi Minh City has another way: martial arts. Raphael Audoin, 29, from Paris, has been practicing martial arts for as long as he can remember. Both his father and brother took part in martial arts for a long time, so naturally Audoin became
involved as well. He began by practicing Judo for years, but eventually the trauma from the takedowns and grappling became too much for him. He took up karate instead and has been practicing it for the last 10 years. When he came to Vietnam to work for a chocolate company in Saigon, he looked for a place to take up the sport again but couldn’t find anywhere. Eventually he met Belgian Serge Bywalski, who was also looking for a place to practice. The two began by training on Bywalski’s roof in District 1. Then two-and-a-half years ago they started a karate club. Now they have about 15 members who meet Tuesday and Thursday evenings at Dancenter Studios in District 2. The group is made up of a wide range of members, both men and women, from different parts of the world. Their abilities also range drastically. One of the instructors, Michael Sisovic has been practicing for 20 years while other members have only been doing it for a few months.
Everyone involved is looking to get something different out of the training. Some want a high-intensity sport, others want something that will allow them to work on their balance and self-control, or they are just looking for an excuse not to drink. They practice Shotokan-style karate, which is divided into three parts: kihon, or the basics; kata, a combination of different moves; and kumite, or sparring. Karate can take a lifetime to master, but it is a very easy sport for anyone to become involved with. “Karate is simple and very difficult at the same time,” says Audoin. There are only five punches, blocks and kicks in karate and after two months of training you will know all the techniques, says Audoin. After that it’s just a matter of perfecting them, which can take three to five years of training. Sam Jusino, one member from the US who had studied karate in Japan, says training at Saigon Karate is just as good, if not better. The difference is that in Japan it is very intense, with
little explanation, which can be off-putting to those new to the sport. Here he says the instructors offer a lot of explanation and all in English. Other than becoming better fighters and more confident when it comes to self-defense, karate has other advantages that carry over into regular life. During the training session, you need to be completely focused, which helps with concentration in everyday tasks, says Audoin. The sport is also a good way to relieve stress and calm your nerves. “Sometimes at work people ask me why I don’t get angry or frustrated as easily as everyone else,” Audoin says. Karate also offers the opportunity to simply get out and do something active, which is what Pierre Le Foll says he uses it for. “It’s tiring, but it’s one night when I’m not drinking.” Saigon Karate meets every Tuesday and Thursday from 8.30 pm to 10 pm at the Dancenter in Thao Dien, District 2. Contact Raphael at raphael.audoin@gmail.com for more details.
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One of Saigon's many delights is its collection of beautiful buildings from days gone by. Walter Pearson takes a look at some of the best examples of French-style architecture unique to Southeast Asia. Photos by Alex McMillan.
Museum in the grounds of Saigon Zoo
It is basically hidden behind high walls and a few more recent buildings. It is possible to go in and look. But the friendly guard makes it clear it is a no photo zone - which is a shame because the Nhi Dong No 2 Hospital is one of Saigon’s superb French Colonial beauties. Squeezed in between Ly Tu Trong and Nguyen Du Streets, what was once the French Military Hospital is an example of a precursor to a true French Colonial architecture for Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. This is not to be confused with the architectural style of the Opera House (Neo-classical style) or the People's Committee buildings - (Beaux Arts style). The hospital’s main building, three levels with a central atrium, is an early form of a style the French developed for practical and attractive buildings in the tropics. It reached full bloom in the early 20th century when architect Ernest Hebard took elements of Vietnamese dinhs and pagodas and incorporated them into a unique style dubbed 'Indochinoise'. 32 asialife HCMC
The Nhi Dong 2 Hospital is a legacy of the French Colonial Army Medical Corps which built hospitals in French colonies across the world during the 19th century. It began building the Saigon hospital in 1867 and opened it in 1873. The Corps also recruited civilians as doctors. As a result, Dr Albert Calmette, physician, immunologist and bacteriologist joined the hospital in 1891, just after the colonial authorities had taken it over. At that time the hospital took the name of its Chief Medical Officer, Dr Grall. Albert Calmette is one of only four non-Vietnamese after whom roads are named in Vietnam. The others are named after Alexander de Rhodes, Louis Pasteur and Alexandre Yersin. Pasteur’s famous Institute worked in conjunction with all the colonial hospitals; Yersin and Calmette worked for the Institute here in Vietnam The Grall Hospital eventually treated the “indigenous Anamites” but continued to care for service personnel until the French left Vietnam. In 1975, as Liberation approached Saigon,
Circle Sportif Truong Vuong School Nhi Dong 2 Hospital
served and volleyed. The Circle Sportif even has a cameo role in Anthony Grey's pot-boiler Saigon. After Liberation, the Circle Sportif became the Cau Lac Bo Lao Dong or Workers Club on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street. It is probably better known to tourists as the place with the Water Puppets Theatre. The original swimming pool is still in the Club but the grass tennis courts have been replaced with hard courts and volley ball courts. Every day it is full of university students playing volleyball and the middle-class playing tennis. A square concrete block construction has replaced its eastern end, marring the building’s former beauty. However, if you go inside and through the gate to the inner section and reflect deeply, you may get an idea of what a lovely building it once was. The Nhi Dong 2 Hospital requires no such imaginings. Just stand among the towering trees that form a perfect avenue parallel to the main structure and enjoy the building's charm.
Marie Curie School
journalists rallied outside its gates on 29 April to catch buses to the US Embassy and a helicopter out. Other examples of this unique Indochina architectural style are the Trung Vuong School on Nguyen Binh Kiem, the History Museum just up the road inside the precincts of the zoo and the Marie Curie School in District 3. Many other buildings in the style are dotted across the inner-city, you just have to keep an eye out. They are characterised by tile roofs, high ceilings, shuttered windows, wide eaves and delightful details. They are also a yellow colour which is both unique and familiar to many. It is said the colour kept insects at bay. Perhaps the saddest example of this style of architecture is the former Circle Sportif. Prior to the revolution, Saigon’s expatriates met there on weekends for swimming or tennis. There was also an air-conditioned library. White-jacketed waiters delivered cool drinks to ladies in broad-brimmed hats while their husbands or lovers, or both,
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Two men have used their connections garnered from living in Southeast Asia to start their own cologne company. They tell Chris Mueller their story. Photos by Fred Wissink.
They seem like an unlikely pair to have founded a cologne company. Keith Nolan has the air of a maturing musician, dressed all in black with streaks of grey creeping across his jet-black hair. His slight Irish accent betrays that he has lived abroad for years. Shannon Crane, Nolan’s business partner, is a big Australian man, with one arm covered in tattoos. At first glance, they seem like the type of guys typically found in sports bars, but about a year and a half ago they released their own brand of men’s cologne, Keith Shannon, and it has taken off. Nolan had lived in Vietnam for seven years before he decided to move to Bangkok, where he has been for the past 10 years. In Vietnam, he was a well-known musician. His band played the circuit, which in 1994 didn’t amount to much. They needed to get permits every time they played and uneasy police officers sometimes broke up their shows, which forced them to occasionally play in secret. But Nolan and his band played a big part in establishing the live music scene in Saigon, or at least helping push it in the right direction. Now when he comes back to the city he says the entertainment scene has changed drastically. “I like the changes,” he says.
“Young Vietnamese are more worldly. There is more interaction with foreigners. They are holding onto it [the music scene] for dear life, and I think it’s fantastic.” Dominating the Saigon nightlife brought Nolan into contact with a diverse group of people. These connections have been key to the success of Keith Shannon and without them Nolan says the company wouldn’t have been so fortunate. After they released their first fragrance, Reckless Abandon, they sold a bottle to a Vietnam-
where he ended up giving some of the cologne to Filipino boxer Manny Pacquiao, who now wears it as well, says Nolan. Local celebrities are also starting to use it. Vietnamese film star Tran Bao Son and Vietnamese model Nathan Lee both wear Keith Shannon, Nolan says. Keith Shannon started from what seemed to be a lack of men’s products in spas. Nolan and Crane decided they wanted to make something for men, so settled on a new fragrance. “We wanted to do something for this
McCartney tried the cologne and fell in love with it, says Nolan. He has even agreed to give his signature to Keith Shannon so they can put it on their products. ese woman who was a friend of a friend. She gave it to her husband who turned out to be a friend of legendary musician Paul McCartney. McCartney tried the cologne and fell in love with it, says Nolan. He has even agreed to give his signature to Keith Shannon so they can put it on their products. McCartney isn’t the only celebrity who has taken a liking to the cologne. Nolan and Crane had been talking to a friend about distributing it in other regions, like the Middle East and India. Afterwards their friend took a trip to the Philippines
age, this time,” says Nolan. They started to experiment with different fragrances until they found something they liked. After they got a good scent, they went straight to women to ask what they thought. The overall consensus was that it was good, so they sent it to Paris to be copied. Their target demographic is active, professional men between 25 and 45, but they say with a few tweaks they could make it into a women’s perfume. This is something they plan to do early this year. Although starting a women’s
line will increase their customers, it’s the men’s fragrance that will likely bring success. In the first nine months of 2011, men’s fragrance sales grew by 12 percent, compared to 9 percent for women’s, according to a recent study quoted in the Los Angeles Times. The Keith Shannon cologne is subtle, unlike a lot of popular colognes worn in Vietnam that can be smelt across the room. “People have to be close to you,” says Nolan. “We don’t want a loud, obnoxious fragrance.” Right now a bottle is going for US$90 and can be bought at Villa Anupa in District 1. They also sell it in Bangkok, in a small boutique in Sydney and online at mykeithshannon.com. They are making plans to set up shop in Costa Rica so they can start importing it to the US and Canada. Sometime in the beginning of this year they also plan to release a Keith Shannon clothing line consisting of quality, simple jeans and t-shirts that will be produced in Vietnam. Both Nolan and Crane knew they were taking a risk starting this company, but for now it has paid off. “It’s not about failure, it’s about giving something your best shot and following it through,” Crane says. asialife HCMC 35
Ben Spink McCarthy lived in Taiwan for several years, and has fond memories of his former island home. Photos by Ben Spink McCarthy and Fred Wissink. "You're going to Thailand, that's great!", friends ask me. "No, no, it's Taiwan, the little island off the coast of China". "Oh ok, those islands in Thailand are fantastic, the beaches are to die for." Then you'll let out a little sigh. In the two years I lived in Taiwan it was sometimes hard explaining where I was in the world to those back home in New Zealand, but I tried to look over geographical shortcomings and remember that Taiwan could fit into Thailand 14 times over, despite having over a third of it's population. Taiwan is a mountainous country nestled to the northeast of Hong Kong, and having lived in China prior to moving to Taiwan I can say it is very similar to the mainland. What on earth China is like is another question and most westerners will give you an answer ranging somewhere between the tighly orchestrated 2008 Olympic Games or a goblin camp from Lord of the Rings. The truth 36 asialife HCMC
is somewhere in the middle. Taiwan on the other hand can in many ways be described as "China-lite" since it will give you significantly less culture shock than China. By that I mean you won't have to get past spitting, babies peeing anywhere they like or staring (much). On the downside
idyllic, uncrowded spots. Your top five go-tos on the Lonely Planet will be jam packed, but if you ask around and take the road less travelled expect to be pleasantly surprised by what Taiwan can offer. Many of the beaches in the North and East coasts are broad, beautiful and have attracted a growing surfing
" The mountains that dominate most of the island are lush, green and contain a lot of tracks that are quite underused by the locals, but the hot spots are again fairly crowded." Taiwanese food isn't as flavourful, it's somehow more crowded than the 1.3 billion person China, and well, isn't the roughness of China part of its allure? Taiwan was dubbed 'the beautiful island' by the Portuguese when they initially arrived and despite the population exploding ten fold since then, the island still has a lot of
culture. An odd phenomenon is that 'swimming areas' at popular beaches are sectioned off with ropes and boeys, and if a life guard finds you swimming outside the area you'll be whistled at until you get back inside the rope. On the other hand you'll find completely deserted beaches elsewhere. The mountains that dominate most of the island are lush,
green and contain a lot of tracks that are quite underused by the locals, but the hot spots are again fairly crowded. Steep peaks and low cloud is ever present, giving hiking a very atmospheric feel and natural hot springs abound, with a few great spots being within an hour of the capital, Taipei. I don't exaggerate when I say the people of Taiwan are the most honest and helpful people I've ever met, and I'm not getting paid to say that. I feel less safe in my own country at night and that's saying something. I literally couldn't count the number of times I had friends lose wallets or cell phones in taxis or restaurants only to have them returned personally or to a police station. This speaks magnitudes of local friendliness and perhaps also the hangovers my friends receive. Plus, if you start to look lost in a public area for more than about five minutes, expect someone to try and help
you out. Most young people can speak a little English, but people can be excessively shy towards foreigners. Night markets may be nothing new to HCM City, but in Taiwan they have their own style and allure. More often than not you'll have to navigate slowly through a sticky hot mess of commerce and bodies, but as someone who views shopping as something to endure, not enjoy, even I had fun. The markets are alive with lights, yelling and smells. Snacks are the main order of the day, with oyster omelets, salty fried bread with chives and eggs, and stinky tofu being popular dishes. The snacks are delicious, and even stinky tofu,
which lives up to its name by smelling like warmed up trash, is palatable. Clothing, trinkets, and jewelry are all available at most night markets, but each market has a specialty. Sometimes 'junk at half price is still junk' is the mantra to remember, but the days of 'Made in Taiwan' being synonymous with flimsy construction are long gone. It now is home to Acer and Asus and Taiwan designs about 80% of the world's notebooks. Its also ranks highly when it comes to the political hotspots of the world, but things have settled considerably in the last five years. Local taxi drivers will love to talk about politics with you, even if you can barely
speak a word of Mandarin. Taiwan is officially named the 'Republic of China', while China is the 'People's Republic of China'. Once upon a time the world recognised Taiwan as the 'real China' but eventually Taiwan had to pass the torch over to China. The two sides are still officially at war, having never signed a peace treaty with each other, and a little known fact is that the American government even threatened China with nuclear war in the '50s if it didn't back off from shelling outlying Taiwanese islands. As a result there's quite a pro-western feel to Taiwan and they're really happy to see western visitors. However the matter of the 'real China' is a taboo subject and I
found trying to change anyone's mind on either side of the issue about as productive as shouting into a paper bag. It's certainly not on the well worn tourist route in Asia but Taiwan is worth a visit or a very comfortable year or two away. The mixture there is unique. First, you have Hakka and Hoklo Han Chinese and the indigenous population. Add in a history of being governed by the Chinese, the Japanese and themselves, and a sizable slice of Buddhist, Taoist and Confusion thought. Now all of this is surviving while being marinated in global capitalism and western culture, while sitting comfortably in the shadow of Beijing. asialife HCMC 37
Next Stop Danang
Danang’s popularity amongst vacationers is growing rapidly for a number of reasons. In response, several premium properties like the five-star Hyatt Regency Danang are springing up in the idyllic coastal city. By Madeleine Adamson.
I
t is hard to imagine a more alluring spot for Hyatt to erect its latest addition to the upscale hotel chain. Nestled on a stretch of white-sand beach with expansive views of the East Sea and bordered by the striking Marble Mountains, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is a mere 15 minutes from the Danang International Airport. The property is Hyatt’s second venture in Vietnam, the first being its successful HCM City branch. So what sparked the decision to establish their next accommodation in Danang? Explains the Hyatt Regency Danang’s General Manager Anthony Gain, “Hyatt is a management company, so expan38 asialife HCMC
sion for us is dictated by where developers are building hotels. It so happens that this project came to light in Danang.” The Hyatt Regency Danang boasts 182 lavish residences and 27 self-contained Ocean Villas— each with a private pool. The hotel’s 200 guestrooms feature chic neutral tones, oversized balconies, floor-to-ceiling windows and state-of-the-art amenities. Vietnamese-style decorative elements complement each room’s clean, contemporary design. The resort’s array of exceptional dining outlets, spa and wellness facilities, and refined meeting and event services rival those of any five-star property worldwide. The remarkable venue is
one of myriad high-end resorts that have recently been constructed in Danang. While the global economy still strives to recuperate after the recession, Danang, like several markets in Southeast Asia, moves full steam ahead. A strong domestic tourism industry and Danang’s proximity to key cultural heritage sites are certainly helping to drive growth. Good infrastructure, particularly in comparison with the rest of the country, and a local government that is actively pro-development are also contributing to the boom. As Gain explains, “Vietnam’s tourism is growing very quickly. As a major air hub in and out of the Central Coast, Danang
is attracting many air flights and many passengers travelling through the area. This has been a great benefit in Danang’s tourism growth.” He attests to the fact that the infrastructure around Danang has been upgraded, making travel in and around the area very convenient for visitors. Gain adds that there will be even more expected progress for Danang as soon as the international airport has finished its final construction phase. “The completion of the airport will hopefully attract more air carriers from our neighbouring regions which will open up our tourism market to more international clients,” he says. The spot chosen to erect the
Hyatt Regency Danang was optimal for a number of reasons. Explains Gain, “The resort is close enough to Danang for convenient transfers to the airport or into Danang City, and it is also close to [UNESCO-listed ancient town] Hoi An allowing visitors to easily access both cities. Being slightly out of town helps create the relaxing beach front resort atmosphere our guests are looking for. “I think Danang is small enough to maintain the wonderful charm that Vietnam holds. At the same time it is a large enough city to have the resources to ensure we can offer good service and products,” he says. Indeed Danang’s CBD, which straddles the enchanting Han
River, is bordered by the imposing Marble Mountains to the south and west, the snaking Hai Van Pass to the north, and the East Sea to the east. The city is also a few hours’ drive to the ancient Cham ruins at My Son and Vietnam’s former feudal capital Hue, both of which have made it on the World Heritage List. Danang’s My Khe Beach, or Non Nuoc (‘Mountain and Water’) as it’s referred to locally, is one of Vietnam’s most renowned beaches. “Danang is influenced by both the northern and the southern regions of the country, whilst still embracing its own unique style. It is important to recognise the natural and historical wonders of the Cen-
tral Coast as there are so many and areas like this are rapidly disappearing around the world. Here they are embraced and cherished, and within a few hours of Danang there are many things to see and experience culturally,” Gain adds. Danang is also emerging as a major golfing destination, thanks to the recent and ongoing development of some highly acclaimed courses. Indochina Land’s lauded Montgomerie Links is a minute’s drive from the Hyatt while the Danang Golf Club, designed by legendary golfer Greg Norman, is also nearby. While such swift expansion in tourism and development is no doubt great news for Danang’s
economy at the moment, there remains concern that overdevelopment might eventually ruin the coastal city’s charm. When asked if he worries about this, Gain replies, “Developers and operators have the responsibility to ensure that growth and development is performed responsibly.” While the portion of beach attached to the Hyatt Regency Danang will remain open to the public, a team of staff has been employed to clean and care for the beach meticulously each day. According to Gain, “The economic benefit of growth needs to coexist with the harmony of the area. It is important we all play our part in ensuring we maintain the right balance.” asialife HCMC 39
Knocking for Noodles I first came to HCM City 20 years ago. You can imagine that it was a very different place at that time. There were no functioning traffic lights. The most common vehicle was the bicycle. There were no metered taxis, and few buses. Imagine how quiet the streets and how clean the air! The tallest building in town was the old wing of the venerable Caravelle Hotel. It was 10 stories high. One US dollar bought 10,000 dong. They rolled up the streets at about nine pm, the lights went out, and all was silent till dawn. The only place for ‘late night’ drink was the original Apocalypse Now. In those days it was a grubby backpacker bar on Nguyen Thiep. It closed by midnight. The changes over the last two decades have been mindboggling. The size, the character, and the look of the city have morphed into something completely different. Even the food has been changing. And places to find food have been changing. Sure, the increase of international restaurants has enriched the city. It's good to know that I can get almost any type of cuisine I might want, with the possible exception of South African Cape Malay curry and coconut rice, or fried zebra. But much of the city's culinary tradition is disappearing. The simple com tam is getting hard to find, unless it's a tarted up, modernised and sanitised version. The old beer gardens, the bia
hoi places are going the way of all things. I could go on. But there is one thing, though it be reduced and diminished, that seemingly will not go away. And you can hear it wherever you might happen to be. In could be ten o’clock at night, and the streets of Saigon are growing empty and quiet. Or it might be a bustling market day with a fierce tropical sun poised at the zenith and you don’t want
mi go, delivery is assured. It’s usually noodle soup they go for, but it might be grilled meat or prawns with cold rice vermicelli (cold is a relative term). Or it could be spring rolls. One of these days it might be pizza. Oh well. There have been some changes to the mi go already. These days, some of the noodle knockers are knocking for noodles with a noodle knocker made of metal. I
And then you hear it. That musical knock-knock-knockety-knock of one bamboo stick beating rhythmically on another, as though a musician were trying to knock out a tune on one key of a xylophone. It’s the sound of the mi go, the noodle knocker. to leave the shade of the sycamore you’ve sheltered under. But you’re hungry. And then you hear it. That musical knock-knock-knockety-knock of one bamboo stick beating rhythmically on another, as though a musician were trying to knock out a tune on one key of a xylophone. It’s the sound of the mi go, the noodle knocker. It’s usually a child, boy or girl, and the knocking announces that food is near and that he or she will bring it to you, wherever you are. As long as you are within earshot of the
prefer not to patronise those peripatetic purveyors of pasta. I think they need a knock on the noodle! I am a traditionalist, even if I am overly given to alliteration. Besides, when they use the bamboo, fine and useful souvenirs are to be had by offering the noodle knockers a generous tip in exchange for their knockers. Then, when you are in your home country, and find yourself longing for the taste of Vietnam, just pick up your noodle knocker and knockknock-knockety-knock. Richard Sterling
KOTO Saigon KOTO started as a not-for-profit training program 10 years ago in Hanoi to teach disadvantaged youth life skills, English and how to work in the hospitality industry. In October this year, KOTO Saigon restaurant opened for business. All of the restaurant’s employees come from the street or other tough circumstances and have been trained to work in the hospitality industry, but KOTO Saigon isn’t only about them, it’s also about the food. Located at the end of an alley off of Hai Ba Trung in District 3, KOTO has an open-air courtyard with a retractable roof in case of rain as well as downstairs and upstairs indoor
A restaurant offering high-quality, unique food for a good cause. Photos by Chris Mueller.
dining areas. The décor in the courtyard is simple, with wood tables and wicker chairs. Inside, black and white pictures of KOTO trainees line the walls and light fixtures made from cooking tins hang from the ceiling. The kitchen themed dining room is complete with a chandelier made with drink stirrers. The menu comprises traditional Vietnamese dishes prepared in innovative ways and some western options as well. First I try balls of sticky rice with soy caramel and fish floss, served with house made pickles (110,000 VND). The texture is amazing. The outside is crunchy, but the inside is soft and warm.
Next I’m given the KOTO popcorn chicken (80,000 VND). The chicken isn’t deep fried, which is what I would expect from something that is usually more fried batter than chicken, but is tender, tasty and served with a nice dipping sauce. Finally I’m served two dishes at once; prawns sautéed with garlic, ginger and lemon grass with a side of homemade bread (120,000 VND), and braised pork with taro root puree and herbs on betel leaves (75,000 VND). The prawns are fresh and flavourful with a nice crunch. The marinated pork and soft taro puree go well with the brittleness of the betel leaf.
The restaurant also has lunch specials that rotate from day to day. They range from salads starting at 45,000 VND to noodles or sandwiches and chips starting at 75,000 VND. If you want high-quality, unique Vietnamese food then KOTO is well worth considering. The food tastes even better knowing the profit from the restaurant is invested back into the training program. 151A Hai Ba Trung Street, District 3 Tel: 08 39 349 151 www.koto.com.au Open for lunch Tuesday to Sunday and dinner Wednesday to Saturday. asialife HCMC 41
Ciao Bella There is a quote from Leonardo Da Vinci on the menu of the new Italian restaurant Ciao Bella. It says, “Simplicity is the greatest sophistication,” and it would appear the District 1 eatery has put this guiding principle into practice. Ciao Bella combines both authentic traditional Italian fare with new-world dishes that have evolved over successive generations in a warm and relaxed atmosphere. This is not surprising since proprietor Tony Fox is not only a student of serious Italian food but also cut his teeth in the industry running a clutch of Italian restaurants in New York. We start things off with the soft egg ravioli (145,000 VND). 42 asialife HCMC
A light-hearted approach and a deft touch make this new Italian eatery a stand-out. Photos by Brett Davis.
The round parcel sits in a pool of browned butter and is topped with shaved pecorino and sage leaves. Cutting into the perfectly cooked pasta releases the soft, golden egg yolk and herbed goat cheese to mingle with the butter. There is little else to say other than the dish is utterly divine. Do yourself a favour and go and try it immediately. You can thank me later. Next is the cacciucco (295,000 VND), a Tuscan seafood stew of prawns, mussels, clams salmon and sea bass. The whole is held together with a rich and spicy tomato sauce. The pieces of toasted bread topped with saffron aioli makes for excellent dipping in the broth.
Not normally a dessert fan, I’m a little unsure what to expect from the ‘Pope’s Pillow’ (120,000 VND). The resulting creation is delicate pieces of puff pastry with mascarpone and glazed strawberries. It is light and delicious without being overbearingly sweet. There is much on the menu I would like to try so I will certainly be returning to sample, among other things, the porcetta (225,000 VND) a six-hour slow roasted piece of pork stuffed with garlic, fennel and herbs. There is also a range of artisanal cheeses and cured meats available. Ciao Bella offers a very reasonably priced set lunch at 185,000 VND that includes
a salad, main and dessert plus coffee. The restaurant is also open for breakfast where you can try an Italian frittata (155,000 VND) with bacon and mozzarella cheese. The venue is warm and inviting with lots of dark brick and black and white posters of famous actresses of years gone by adorning the walls. There is also a happy hour each day with free antipasti on the ground floor bar between 4 and 7 pm. All together, Ciao Bella has the makings of a local institution. 11 Dong Du, District 1 Tel: 08 38223329 Open seven days from 7 am to 1am.
Swiss Chalet Calm down Canucks. We’re not talking about the Canadian rotisserie chain, which possesses the same name as this Pasteur joint. Swiss-owned but managed by Rok Pintar, who lived in Switzerland for five years, Swiss Chalet has been part of the HCM City dining scene for only five months. Yet it has already established a loyal fan base comprising nearby office workers, travellers and Saigon’s Swiss and German expats who seek a bona fide Swiss dining experience. Rok explains that he and the owners wanted to focus on dishes that customers could not find elsewhere. He also believes that a small menu containing just a few well-executed dishes trumps an
A quaint Swiss eatery specialising in plentiful portions of tasty meats, rösti potatoes and fantastic fondue. Photos by Brett Davis.
extensive menu composed of so-so fare. The cozy eatery feels like it should be nestled on a hilly street in old Geneva. Stone walls, red plaid curtains and wood panelling afford Swiss Chalet a rustic feel. Oldfashioned hanging lanterns, real cow bells and paintings depicting snow-covered mountains have been imported directly from Switzerland. Other charming paintings have been recreated from retro Swiss postcards. Well-trained staff are decked out from head to toe in Swiss-style black and red server uniforms. We begin with chunky onion soup (75,000 VND) topped with crusty bread and melted
cheese. Next, we move on to our shared main: cheese fondue (380,000 VND per person). The fondue is served in traditional Swiss manner atop a caquelon (communal pot) over a rechaud (spirit lamp). We enjoy spearing our bite-sized pieces of bread with our long stemmed forks and dipping them into the piping hot cheese, which contains wine to produce the right consistency. Three kinds of Swiss cheese go into the fondue. Meat fondue is also on offer for those who are not huge fans of cheese. The meat fondue (330,000 per person) contains beef, chicken, pork, mushrooms and other vegetables. Our hearty meal is complimented by a glass of dry white wine
from the Swiss-Italian border. Though we are too stuffed from all the cheese to try dessert, we agree we must sample the chocolate fondue (280,000 VND) next time around. Swiss Chalet’s heavenly chocolate dessert is prepared and eaten much the same way as the cheese fondue. Diners can dip pieces of mixed fruit and cookies into a caquelon filled with melted Toblerone chocolate. Bellies full of quality food and wine, we feel a bit lethargic by the end of our meal—but we are already planning a return visit. 54 Pasteur, District 1. Tel: 08 3915 3983 Open daily from 11 am onward. asialife HCMC 43
[ 44 asialife HCMC
This decadent venue encourages Saigon dwellers to embrace their various vices—with style. By Madeleine Adamson
[
T
hough we might be quick to deny it, a typical night on the town can easily turn into an overly indulgent one—in one way or another. Newly opened Sin Lounge stands apart from HCM City’s slew of watering holes in that it shamelessly invites customers to explore their hedonistic side. The intimate lounge, situated in the Lancaster building on 22 Le Thanh Ton in District 1, is broken into themed areas, each of which represents one of the seven deadly sins. Trung Thuy Group, which owns the Lancaster building and several other HCM City properties, was behind the creation of Sin Lounge. Trung Thuy’s Deputy General Director, Nguyen Trung Tin, says he worked tirelessly over the past five months with numerous designers and contractors to make Sin Lounge a reality. French design team Less is More lead by Julien Smith was responsible for conceptualising the space alongside Tin. The overarching style of the lounge is Gothic-meets-Baroque with a contemporary twist. Grey furniture is utilised since
grey is optimal for picking up the colourful light emitted from LED lamps. The lamps, dispersed throughout the venue, allow each section to exude a hue corresponding to the sin in question. The front most portion of the lounge represents vanity. Here guests can gaze out onto Le Thanh Ton and, more importantly, passersby on the street can look in. The ultimate place to see and be seen, this violethued space holds lavish sofas and ottomans, all influenced by the elegance of the 16th century Baroque period. According to Tin, the empty frames on the walls further condone narcissism because “if you believe you are the most beautiful, you don’t want to see beauty in anything or anyone else.” A breathtaking optical fibre chandelier complete with delicate Swarovski crystals looms overhead. A curtain constructed of metal chains sections off the wrath zone, which radiates a vibrant shade of red. “The chains are symbolic—they act to contain the rage in this area,” Tin explains.
An island of tall chairs and tables in the middle of the room, the envy zone is understandably green. Tin expects this area to breed peoplewatching and, naturally, lots of gossiping. The wraparound gold leaf textured bar counter is a fitting choice for illustrating greed. Seven Sins shots range from 170,000 – 180,000VND while cocktails go for 210,000VND. The Wrath cocktail, with Hendrick’s, apricot brandy, watermelon juice and chili, has a decidedly spicy kick. Observant patrons might notice a decorative snake slinking along the bottom portion of the bar. Fitted with classic chaise lounges, Tin says that the sloth area hearkens back to the days when women wore constricting corsets. After hours of pain and discomfort, they would loosen the corset and spend time lounging idly. Red velvet curtains act as barriers to two private VIP booths at the back of the lounge—the lust portion of the place. With its sumptuous furniture, red hue and immense collage of
provocative images, there is nothing subtle about this naughty hideout. Sin Lounge’s outdoor patio boasts high tables and seats, as well as seven ornately framed pictures representing all seven sins. An ideal spot to eat and smoke, this alfresco area promotes gluttony. On your way to the restroom, stroll through an otherworldly corridor covered in plush red padding. Mirrors on one wall and on the ceiling create the illusion of a boundless space. Luckily it is not an inferno that awaits at the end of a walkway, but a make-up room for ladies. Says Tin, “I think women get tired of having to chat and touch up their make-up in the bathroom, so we have given them a designated space to do this.” Sin Lounge, open daily from 6 pm until 1 am, features an eclectic range of background music depending on the time of day. The venue is both a relaxing place to pamper oneself after work, as well as a lively locale for some late-night debauchery. asialife HCMC 45
Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS
Stationery Emily Post would roll over in her grave at the prospect of an invitation or thank you note sent by email. While most of us aren’t as stuck on etiquette as the late Ms Post, using fine stationery to send a message shows that an occasion is important— and you care enough about the recipient to send them something special. The term ‘stationery’ was born in the 13th century to refer to products sold by a stationer, whose bookshop stood on a fixed spot. Especially since the Victorian era, stationery has been profoundly linked to the process of written, personalised communication—not to mention proper social decorum. Several techniques of stationery manufacture exist, of varying prestige and expense. Letterpress is a printing method in which characters are impressed upon a page. The print may be inked or blind and motifs or designs can also be added. Embossing, which creates raised surfaces on paper, relies upon matted dies that press the paper into a shape seen on both sides. Upper-crust stationery 46 asialife HCMC
aficionados prefer personalised engraving, whereby a design is cut into a steel or copper plate (called a die) with the sender’s name. The finished plate is covered in ink, the ink is removed from the plate’s un-etched portions, and the plate is firmly pressed into the paper. The costly process has a long history and professional expertise is required. Some discerning letter recipients might rub a finger over the sender’s name to see if it is engraved or merely printed. The good news is that dies last forever, making subsequent orders less costly. Tiffany & Co stores more than 10,000 personalised dies in a Massachusetts warehouse, while Cartier keeps thousands in the basement of its flagship Fifth Avenue store. In 1929, Flora (Mrs John L) Strong, started selling bespoke wedding invitations and stylish social stationery in her sister’s trousseau shop on New York City’s Upper East Side. The company has since created custom stationery for seven presidential families, royal houses, prominent members of international society and
movie stars. Mrs John L Strong provides hand engraving for its clients and has refused to adopt modern computer or photo engraving processes. The company’s bespoke products display a range of crafts rarely used by others in the industry, including hand engraving in dies of steel, hand-stamping of dies, handmixing of custom varnish inks, hand-beveling and bordering, and hand-lining of envelopes. Mrs Strong offers 100% cotton archival quality papers in its signature hue ‘Strong’s Vanilla’. Top-notch writing paper, such as Mrs Strong’s, can be held up to the light to see the maker’s name in the watermark. Smythson of Bond Street, which supplies paper to the British royal family, still uses hand-chiseled dies, as well. Smythson also boasts of making the light-blue letter sheet that Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis used. At Smythson, a set of 50 personalised correspondence cards is £195, which gives customers a choice of card type, colour, lettering style and ink colour. A printed address costs £22 extra, a border adds on £54, and a
motif will run you up to £112 more. Then of course you must customise your hand-lined envelopes. Dempsey & Carroll has employed decorative artist John Derian, fashion designer Trina Turk and painter Madeline Weinrib to design some of their haute couture stationery. Once you have invested in the crème de la crème of stationery, you must adhere to the countless guidelines regarding correspondence etiquette: never type a thank-you note (a good fountain pen must be employed); only use black-bordered stationary on the occasion of a death; do not clutter your calling card with a cellular telephone number or e-mail address. And, of course, do not confuse calling cards with business cards. But that is another matter. If you have an eye for design—and are a sucker for Jane Austen novels—embracing fine, personalised stationery might be for you. In the words of Emily’s great-granddaughterin-law, Peggy Post, “You can tell who someone is by their stationery—it’s really like someone’s wardrobe.”
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Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.
listings
hotel & travel
Turkish Airlines 8th floor, AB Tower 76A Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3936 0360 www.turkishairlines.com Awarded as the Best Airline in Europe offers the brand new Comfort Class to E conomy class: 46inch leg room, personalised entertainment screen and globally awarded cuisine on-board.
AIRLINES
Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris. Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.
escape
Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.
CON DAO
Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court
DALAT
Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.
activities
Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.
HANOI
Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888
www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool. Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers. Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant. Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919
take flight with travel promotions around the region
Spa InterContinental’s Detoxifying Package
Treat yourself this festive season. Featuring international brands and professional spa expertise, Spa InterContinental combines contemporary spa treatments with Asia’s healing traditions. Spa InterContinental’s Detoxifying Spa Package infuses essential minerals and vitamins to nourish skin and eliminate toxins. The elite spa offers this whole 150-minute sensory experience for only 1,690,000VND per person until January 31—a 30% discount on the standard price. Clients will also have access to a 20-metre outdoor lap pool complete with a sundeck, a 160-square metre spacious fitness centre with the latest generation cardio and resistance equipment, plus a personal programme of fitness classes. For more information email hoangthach.thao@ihg.com or visit intercontinental.com/Saigon.
Gift Vouchers from Vinpearl
A Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Gift Voucher for 8,400,000VND includes 3 days/ 2 nights’ stay in a Deluxe Hill View Room for two people. It includes complimentary daily buffets (breakfast, lunch and dinner), free round trip airport transfer, unlimited access to Vinpearl Land, and a complimentary golf tour. The Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Voucher for 14,000,000VND includes 3 days/ 2 nights in a
52 asialife HCMC
and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.
Pool Villa Room for two people, complimentary daily buffets (breakfast, lunch and dinner), a body massage for two people, round trip airport transfer, unlimited Vinpearl Land access, plus a complimentary golf tour. Visit vinpearl. com or email reservation@vinpearl.com.
eating and drinking venues. As a special introductory offer, guests will be entitled to a ‘stay for three nights, pay for two’ deal at the resort. Visit mianhatrang.com.
Tet Package at Furama
From January 20 through 29, enjoy a stay in a Deluxe room for 2,720,000 VND++ (single/ double) per night at the iconic Caravelle hotel in HCM City’s centre. Note that the offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions and card privileges. A full, non-refundable prepayment is required at the time of booking. Rooms are subject to availability. For reservations, please email rsvn@caravellehotel.vnn.vn.
Embrace the New Year with family at Furama. Pay only 9,240,000 VND ++ for a two-night stay in a twin-sharing Garden View Room and enjoy daily breakfast, one dinner buffet at the Café Indochine restaurant, round trip airport transfer in Da Nang, daily shuttle bus to Hoi An, free WiFi and other services. The deal is valid from January 20 until the 31. For reservations and air ticket booking assistance email reservation@furamavietnam.com or visit furamavietnam.com.
Stay Three, Pay Two at the Mia Resort Nha Trang
Gold Package at Equinox Fitness Center & Spa
Tet Promotion at the Caravelle
Sailing Club Vietnam is proud to announce the unveiling of its new Mia Resort Nha Trang. The sumptuous boutique property opened to the public on September 1 and promotes the laid-back blend of sophistication and style people have come to expect from the Sailing Club brand. Situated by the sparkling waters of the East Sea and with its own private beach, the new resort features 50 rooms, many with their own pools, a spa and two high-end but casual
Pamper your body with the Gold Spa package offered at Equinox. The eight services available include Foot reflexology/ Shiatsu/ Thai/ Vietnamese massage (90mins); Rebalancing facial (60 mins); Aromatherapy body massage (90 mins); Hot stone massage (60 mins). The cost is 2,450,000 nett for five vouchers. Receive a complimentary offer if you make the purchase in January. For reservations, please call 08 3839 7777 ext 8555 or come to 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.
www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.
HO CHI MINH CITY
Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view. MÜvenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre. Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One.
Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants. Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.
activities
Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips. Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom. Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.
HOI AN & DANANG
Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.
17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1, HCMC T: (84-8) 3822 6111 Ext.101 M: 0918 802 526
F: (84-8) 3824 1835
E: sales@norfolkmansion.com.vn
W: www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group
Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com
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Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.
HUE
Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/ lounges. Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa 112 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3830 240 www.vedanaresorts.com Nestled on the shore of a peaceful and serene lagoon, vedana lagoon resort & spa is ideally situated between the two cities well-known as world heritage sites: hue and hoi an. The resort designed with a stylist harmony between the local traditional culture and a modern art concept with 27 villas, bungalows and 2 houseboats.
NHA TRANG
Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving. Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square
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metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Mia Resort Nha Trang Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 398 9666 www.mianhatrang.com Ultimate luxury resort with 50 rooms divided into villas and condos, catering by wel-known restaurant Sandals and Mojito's bar.
PHAN THIET
Anatara Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.anatara.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool. Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex. The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa. Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort
activities
C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.
Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.
PHU QUOC
VUNG TAU
Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.
Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.
SAPA
TRAVEL AGENTS
Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.
SCUBA DIVING
Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2
Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent. Exotissimo HCMC infosgn@exotissimo.com pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.
listings
food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS
Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains. Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 1720 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam. Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner. La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure. Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily. Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily. Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported
from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two. Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle. Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am. The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends. ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.
CAFES
Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine. Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions. Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches. Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. Gloria Jean's Coffee Grand View, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 228 Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas. Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selection of gift items. Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930
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Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks. Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking. Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue. Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.
feast
That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.
CHINESE
Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne. Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.
Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND.
X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground. Catering available.
Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works. Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND.
Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting. Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes
broaden your palate with promotions around town
Presenting Park Hyatt Masters
Park Hyatt Saigon announces Park Hyatt Masters, a series of epicurean events showcasing the diversity of regional textures and flavours found throughout Vietnam. The first of the series, from January 13-15, will feature the flavours of CochinChina. Master Pastry Chef Eng will reveal the secrets to preparing and pairing these dainty delicacies. To reserve contact the hotel at 08 3824 1234 or visit saigon.park.hyattrestaurants.com. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1.
Choux and Eclairs at the Caravelle
From January 14 to 21, chefs at the Caravelle Hotel will whip up light French pastries with classic cream fillings and decadent toppings in the Lobby Lounge. Choose from seven varieties of choux and eclairs—including chocolate cream with poached pear slices and icing sugar—for 160,000 VND++ per portion. Pair your pastry with a cup of Lavazza coffee or Ronnefeldt tea for 240,000 VND++ or a flute of Taittinger Champagne for 310,000 VND++. Call 08 3823 3999 or log on to caravellehotel. com. Ground Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.
Celebrate Lunar New Year at Shang Palace
To welcome the Year of the Dragon, Shang Palace Restaurant will serve a special dish of raw salmon mixed with eye-catching shredded vegetables and a variety of sauces (known as Yu Sheng to many overseas Chinese). Also enjoy the Prosperous Big Bowl Feast containing abalone, fish maw, sea cucumber, dried scallop and prawn. Sample special Tet pastries for dessert. And
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Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here. Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.
Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.
don’t miss the Lion dance on the first day of the New Year. For more information call 08 3823 2221 or email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn. First Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.
Set Lunch At Basilico
Basilico is offering great lunch choices for Italian food lovers. Choose either a starter and main course or main course together with a homemade Italian dessert from 270,000VND—370,000VND++ per person. The set lunch is available from 11.30 am until 2.30 pm Monday through Friday. Call 08 3520 9959 or click on to intercontinental.com/Saigon to find out more. Ground Floor, InterContinental Residences, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.
Dine and Redeem at the Park Hyatt
Dining at Park Hyatt Saigon has just become more delicious with an enticing new offer: patrons who dine at Opera or Square One, with a minimum consumption of 1,050,900VND, will receive a voucher for a 20% discount off their bill during their next visit to 2 Lam Son, Saigon’s exclusive martini bar. The voucher is valid for one month from the date received and not applicable with any other promotion. Visit saigon.park.hyattrestaurants.com. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1.
Lobster Temptations at TOTT
Do you love lobster? Try the house special Lobster Thermidor served on fettuccini pasta or Lobster Newberg stewed with a unique blend of spices. And during any evening at Top of the Town, satisfy your crepuscular urges with the cocktail of the
month—Twilight. Starting in January, enjoy live music every Friday and Saturday night from the Gipsy Nation Band. Don’t forget to bring your Windsor VIP Card to enjoy 10% discount every night. Email tott@windsorplazahotel.com for additional details. 25th floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.
Chinese Lunar New Year celebration at Orientica From Jan 09, come and experience Chinese Lunar New Year with family and friends at Orientica restaurant with an extraordinary selection of auspicious set menus as well as a la carte menu prepared by our Orientica Executive Sous Chef Wong Yow Phun. Table of 10 guests can choose from 3 unique set menus SAU GONG JIU set 1 VND 6,000,000++ / SAU GONG JIU set 2 VND 9,000,000++ / SAU GONG JIU set 3 VND 15,000,000++ For more information, please contact Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong Street, District 5, HCMC. Tel: 3839 7777
Family Brunch Chit Chat at the Café
Make your Sunday meaningful with family and friends over a sumptuous buffet spread at Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City. The kid club will entertain your kids during lunch. From 11:30am, VND 540,000 ++/ adult Including free flow of soft drinks, beer and house wine and bubby cocktails and free use of swimming pool. For more information, please contact Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong Street, District 5, HCMC. Tel: 3839 7777.
street gourmet
www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs. Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.
DESSERT PARLOURS
Mut dua Mut dua, otherwise known as ‘coconut sweetie’, is a mix of sliced copra (dried, fibrous coconut meat) mixed with white sugar. To make the final product more aesthetically pleasing, colour can be added to the copra/ sugar mixture. Mut dua is largely produced in
prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine. Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly
Ben Tre from the beginning of November to the end of December. Its nutritional value depends on whether a young or old coconut is used and, of course, the amount of sugar that’s added. The cost changes every year. Khoa Nguyen
specials. Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking. Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221
Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month. Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes. New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.
FRENCH
Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.
Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes. Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras. La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm. La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm. Le Bouchon de Saigon 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 This French diner-style restaurant has an emphasis on hearty home cooking, courteous service and a relaxed atmosphere. Chefs David Thai and Alexis Melgrani are well known industry figures and this venue can hold its own among the city’s many French rstaurants. Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND.
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imbibe
street gourmet
Guide to a successful marriage of food and wine By Darryl Bethea Can a food or wine be delicious all by itself? Absolutely! But pairing it perfectly takes it to an entirely higher level of pleasure. Red meat with red wine, white wine with fish and chicken, right? Many people think it’s that easy. Not exactly. The truth is that cooking methods, sauces and other ingredients may be more important than the colour of the protein. Here’s a short guide to effective pairings. Pairing 101: 1) Match the overall intensity of the food and wine. Simple foods go well with non-complex wines. The food should not overwhelm the wine and vice versa. 2) Identify the key ingredients of the food. The spiciness of a Thai-style chicken curry would pair perfectly with a German Riesling. For grilled chicken, an oaky California Chardonnay would be perfect. 3) Decide whether to compare or contrast. Sweet wine can go with sweet foods or counteract them—such as a Riesling taming the fire of spicy food. A tannic Cabernet Sauvignon will cut through fatty foods or match bitter greens. Another trick is matching the ethnicity of the food and wine. The terroir (anything contributing to a sense of place) is a major factor in quality wine making, so finding out the local cuisine in an area and what wines are popular there is a no-brainer. Difficult foods to pair…and some solutions 1) Artichokes contain a chemi-
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cal component that makes wine taste sweet. So try light, dry, acidic white wine such as Champagne, Blanc de Blanc sparkling, or a no oak Chardonnay. 2) Asparagus has a similar issue. Try to roast or grill the tips only, serve them with a cheese sauce. Match the herbaceous character of the food with a dry, grassy, Sauvignon Blanc. 3) Vinaigrettes can make a wine taste flabby, so when pairing with a salad, use less vinegar or replace with citrus, such as lemon. Then a light, high acid white like a Pinot Gris or a Sauvignon Blanc (with a citrusy aroma) will work. 4) Eggs make wine taste metallic or sulfurous, so add wine friendly ingredients to the dish like mushrooms, bacon or cheese. To cleanse the palate, try a high acid white wine. Final considerations: • If the food is smoked, bring on the oak • Beat the heat with sweet • Make the wine as sweet as the food Lastly, choose what you like! Ultimately, when it comes to food and wine or finding a suitable marriage partner, isn’t that what matters the most? Just remain open-minded and you will enjoy your search and discovery. Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Sommeliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@ finewinesasia.com.
Goi Cuon ‘Summer roll’ or ‘fresh spring roll’ is the English name for goi cuon, which originated in the South of Vietnam and is now popular worldwide. Vegetables, boiled bacon, boiled prawns and fresh, crunchy salad are tightly wrapped in rice paper to make these
L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm. MM Bistro 23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more. Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.
INDIAN
Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND. Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available. Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian
delicious, healthy rolls. Goi cuon were traditionally sold from foot-paths to restaurants or hotels. Now CNN has dubbed goi cuon among the fifty best international foods. Pick some up for between 3,000 and 10,000 VND. Khoa Nguyen
selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.
INTERNATIONAL
Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu. Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm. Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.
BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips. Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips. Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven. Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends. Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special
seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain. El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day. The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw. The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day. Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer. Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823
www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels. Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard. Hog's Breath 02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006 The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks. Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.
Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm. Koto 151A Hai Ba Trung, D3, Tel: 3934 9151 This is the Saigon arm of the renowned organisation that began in Hanoi a decade ago. Vietnamese food is prepared with innovative twist by young people Koto are helping get a start in the hospitality industry and on a path for a better life. Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes. Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc. New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic
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New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.
recipes
Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.
Goat Cheese- Ricotta Gnocchi, Roasted Cherry Tomato, Pesto, Baby Ruccula, buffalo mozzarella Serves 4
INGREDIENTS GNOCCHI 350 gr goat’s cheese 250 gr ricotta 75 gr parmesan 1 egg yolk 2 whole egg whites Flour to knead 1 big buffalo mozzarella, cut in thin slices 1 tablespoon fresh basil, finely chopped 1/2 tablespoons fresh oregano, finely chopped Olive oil 1 cup of cream Salt Pepper
PESTO 1 bunch of basil leaves 1 garlic clove 100 ml olive oil 10 gr pine nuts Salt Pepper 50 gr grated parmesan cheese
dough). 3. Divide the dough in 4 parts, and roll with the palms of your hands into long strings of about 2 cm in thickness. Dust with flour as needed. 4. Cut gnocchi into 3 cm by 3 cm cubes. 5. Refrigerate in a floured tray. 6. Mix the mozarella cheese with basil, oregano and olive oil and set aside. FOR THE CHERRY TOMATOES 1. Toss tomatoes with salt, pepper and olive oil. 2. Put in a baking tray in a single layer in the oven at 190C for 45 minutes or until soft.
FOR THE PESTO 1. Put all ingredients except for the cheese in a food processor and pulse until a paste is formed. 2. Take out of the processor and stir in the cheese. 3. Adjust olive oil to desired viscosity.
ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES 100 g cherry tomatoes Salt Pepper Olive oil drizzle
TO SERVE 1. Boil gnocchi in salted water until they float to the top (about 2 minutes). 2. Heat cream and pesto and PREPARATION place on the bottom on a bowl. FOR GNOCCHI 3. Place the gnocchi on top. 1. In a bowl combine goat’s 4. Top with the marinated mozcheese, ricotta, parmesan, egg zarella and cherry tomato. yolks, egg whites, salt and olive oil, 5. Cook under the salamander and mix together with your fingers. or broiler in the oven until golden 2. Add flour slowly while conbrown. stantly mixing until the dough 6. Serve with arugula leaves to stops sticking to the side of garnish, dress in olive oil and the bowl (do not overwork the balsamic vinegar. Recipes provided by Ana Esteves
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Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday. The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets. Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available. Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine. Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available. Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.
Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare. Swiss Chalet 54 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3951 3983 The restaurant provides as authentic a Swiss dining experience as you will find outside of the Alps. The traditional cheese fondue is of course a highlight on the extensive menu, and if you are feeling indulgent enough you can try the chocolate version for dessert. Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal. Zero 15 Dong Du, D1 Bright new brasserie in the heart of down town serves up contemporary cuisine with a mix of Asian and western influences. International tapas feature in the evenings in this pleasantly smoke-free environment.
ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines. Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late. Ciao Bella 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 3329 Top quality Italian food that draws influences from the best of the old and new world. A warm and relaxed vibe, extensive Italian wine list, and a great value set lunch make this a place where it is easy to linger. You can even stick around for the happy hour from 4 to 7pm. Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and
a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines. La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza. Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes. Pendolasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendolaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza. Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s. Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions. Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list. Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads. Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.
JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju. Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out AL46_1-8p.indd 1 the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.
QUAN BUI
Traditional Vietnamese Dining New Vietnamese restaurant opened near the corner of Hai Ba Trung & Tran Quang Khai street, district 1. Great food, traditional dishes, enticing ambience and fantastic value! 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, District1, HCMC Tel: 08 3602 2241 - Mobile: 084 1286 252 351 Email: quanbui8nvn@yahoo.com
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Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere. MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City. Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15. Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serv-
LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn
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ing up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba. The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.
KOREAN
25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well
as super spicy duruchigi. Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables. Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes. Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues
built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Baan Thai 55 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 5453 If you have been missing the delights of Bangkok nightlife then this restaurant and bar should be for you. The Thai chefs whip up all the traditional dishes you know and love, while in the bar there are a host of drinks and activities to help while away an evening. Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand. Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.
VEGETARIAN
Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving nonalcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets. Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu. Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.
VIETNAMESE
Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine. Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am. Cha Ca Viet Nam
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River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill. Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Quan Bui 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1 Tel: 3602 2241 Well executed and delicious Vietnamese food at almost criminally affordable prices. Tucked away at the top end of District one, this place is worth seeking out for five-star food in a casual setting that will certainly not strain the budget.
nightlife BARS & LOUNGES
See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes. The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service. Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle. Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.
BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1
Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes. Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit. Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.
NIGHTCLUBS
Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.
at home BAKERIES
Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended. Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am. Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs. Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.
CATERING
Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events. For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.
Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custommade quotation e-mail SaigonGG@ gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128. The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.
DELIVERY
Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi. KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sausages and vegetarian dishes. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time. Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).
GROCERIES
Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.
LIQUOR & WINE
The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.
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listings
Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.
culture
me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.
CLASSES
AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis. Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1. Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.
CINEMAS
Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule. Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions. Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted. Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles). IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals. Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7
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Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.
GALLERIES
a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm. Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists. Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary. Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese. Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples. San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public. TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.
listings
BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.
sports & leisure
California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.
Happy new year 2012
Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.
Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.
“Let us be grateful
Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.
Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.
progessive and proud”
CRICKET
Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons. Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn
DANCING
DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.
FITNESS & YOGA
AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with
Yoga & Bodywork with Daphne Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage in the city as well as in Phu My Hung. Each session with Daphne is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.
to customers who make us
MARIANNA MEDICAL LASER SKIN CARE 149A Truong Dinh street, Ward 9, District 3, HCM Tell: 08.3526 4636 – 3526 4635 - Hotline: 0903 731 555 Web: www.en.marianna.com.vn
Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment. Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps. Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered. K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor. L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and
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counsel corner
Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room. La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance. Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres. Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.
Post Partum Mood Disorders By Briar Jacques Post partum mood disorders (PPMDs) can occur anytime in the first year of your baby’s life. Post partum depression (PPD) is characterised by persistent sadness, lethargy, irritability, a lack of connection with, and negative feelings about, the baby. Post partum OCD (PPOCD) involves thoughts often related to harming the baby and compulsive behaviours to avoid these ‘urges’. Post partum psychosis (PPP), though rare, is a medical emergency characterised by hallucinations and extreme disorientation. I’d like to focus on specific risk factors linked to living as an expatriate here in Saigon. Giving birth in a foreign country The emotional state of the new mother naturally cycles through many, often contradictory, phases. When a woman gives birth away from familiar safety structures, it can increase the risk of sadness and often overwhelm her. Different cultural attitudes to pregnancy and childbirth here in Vietnam may make expat women view their birth experiences as ‘not ideal’. When the actual experience doesn’t match her internalised ‘ideal’ pictures—and these feelings are left unshared—they may lead to a PPMD. The birth experience In a foreign country where norms are different, there is a higher likelihood that the birth went ‘off plan’. Post partum, the attitude of most people is that “as long as the baby is healthy that’s all that matters”. This is indeed ultimately true. However, this attitude leaves little room
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for the exploration of genuine feelings about the birth and the subsequent acceptance and letting go that may be required. It is important that a woman has the chance to explore her feelings about the birth and not feel guilty about expressing negative feelings—even when her baby is perfectly healthy. Her exploration of the event as an individual, not just as a parent, should be encouraged to prevent a period of PPMD. Relationship already under pressure Expatriate couples in Vietnam face numerous challenges. If your relationship is already strained, the birth of a baby can feel overwhelming. If a new mother feels disconnected from her partner, she is at higher risk of developing a PPMD. Therefore, it is essential to pay attention to the needs and feelings of new fathers as well. Many men feel confused, helpless and angry about their partner’s low mood after birth. They often throw themselves into areas of life where they feel more effective (like work) and can be at a loss as to how to give the right emotional support. There are, of course, many wonderful aspects of giving birth and raising a child here. The aim of sharing what I have is to raise awareness about some of the factors contributing to PPMDs so we may discuss them more openly and hopefully lessen their influence. Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.
Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available. NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++. Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day. Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms. Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.
Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates. Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members. Suzanne & Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.com Suzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.
FOOTBALL & RUGBY
Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome. Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139. RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie. Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments. Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome. Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.
GOLF
Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat
Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels. Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year. Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments. Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available. SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions. Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium. Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.
LEISURE
Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer. Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points. Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams. Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores. Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays. Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talkâ€? meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel CafĂŠ (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837. Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information. Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890
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We wish you the best for 2012
Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew. Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information. X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.
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questions for the coiffeur
listings
health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE
American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.
The Root of the Problem By Lloyd Morgan Q. I hear you do great hair extensions. A. Yes I do, but not here in Vietnam. I like to sew extensions in with a needle and thread, which results in a natural look and one that is more comfortable than any glue method. I recently reactivated the extension process when a lovely woman came to me asking if I did sew-in extensions. She had her own hair with her from previous visits to an overseas salon. Since it was in great condition, we went ahead and popped the extensions in. The result is great and no hair is lost during or after the service. The reason I generally don’t do extensions here is because the hair is expensive to buy and, in Vietnam, I’m not sure I can get the same quality. At present I’m checking wig makers for good quality hair. However, my client is the only lady who I will be doing extensions on at the moment. Q. My friend told me that you have styled the hair of celebrities. Has that been a highlight of your career? A. It’s not necessarily a highlight, since I find that celebrities have the same desires as any client and their hair is, of course, the same as anybody’s. But I do enjoy the
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opportunity to talk with them while I cut their hair. I was honoured to style the Queen of Sweden’s hair before she and the King had dinner with the King of Thailand. She was a wonderful lady—very kind and caring. Then came Lord Linley from England (the Queen’s sister’s son). He’s a very down to earth human being with a great sense of humour. Iconic singer Dame Shirley Bassey also came to me to have her hair styled. It turns out my father was from the same region of Wales that she was. She was in her 60s but had a physique most women would die for. Styling Australian model Daniela Almen’s hair was like being with your sister. Coming from the modeling world, she was a breath of fresh air. And last but not least was Adrian Smith, guitar legend from Iron Maiden. I was even lucky enough to sing two songs and play drums on three songs with him. I was privileged to meet these fascinating people when I was salon manager at Thailand’s fine Chiva Som Salon and Resort. Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@ yahoo.com.
Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia. Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day. Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques. Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2. Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City. Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.
COSMETIC TREATMENT
Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week. FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com
International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment. Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.
DENTAL
Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists. Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments. German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs. European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940. Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available. Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization. Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English. Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices. See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.
HAIR & SALON
Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The mod-
ern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12. Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98
vides fast and accurate diagnoses. Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.
Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.
Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND.
Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.
Counselling Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.
Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.
Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.
Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products. Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.
FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.
Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions. The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations. A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.
MEDICAL
Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology. CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology pro-
Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011. International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff. Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.
MONTESSORI
listings
International & Bilingual
family
Early Childhood Program (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)
Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day
Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities. After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese). www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn
Tel: 37442639 - 35194562 0903 858659
Montessori International School of Vietnam
Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored. Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings. DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line. Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student. Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels. Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September. Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.
The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5. Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong
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BABY EQUIPMENT
Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.
ACTIVITIES
Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC)
Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.
Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality. Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years. Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices. Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices. New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street. An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.
CLOTHES
Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices. DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock. Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.
REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.
EDUCATION
ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities. ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations). The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only
school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities. British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes. Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students. Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi. International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.
The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.
An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.
Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.
ENTERTAINMENT
Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities. RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields. Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn
Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.
PARTIES
Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more. Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap. The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons. almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.
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listings
finance
living BUSINESS GROUPS
AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org
Euro vs Zone By Afonso Vieira The Eurozone sovereign debt crisis started in 2009 and has resulted in generous lending to Greece, Ireland and Portugal. This year the crisis has also become political because there is no clear road map on how to solve the problem quickly. In the shortterm, the Eurozone countries decided to impose austerity measures (higher taxes, less public benefits) on the three countries above and also on Italy, Spain and France (albeit discreetly), the next in line. What’s more, the worldwide economic slowdown coupled with austerity at home is now pushing the Eurozone toward a new recession in 2012. The media announce almost daily that things are going to get a lot worse before… they get worse! But even with bad news the Euro remains stable. Since 1 January this year the Euro has moved around 12% (up and down) versus the US dollar and less than 10% versus the British Pound. Why is the Euro stable? I believe there are two reasons. First, the financial markets regard the Euro and the Eurozone separately. The
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Euro conquered its place as an alternative to the US dollar since physical notes and coins were introduced on 1 January 2002. According to the IMF, as of late 2008, over 60 countries were using the dollar as their exchange rate anchor, compared with close to 30 using the Euro. Most importantly, 45% of the international debt securities were denominated in dollars versus over 30% in Euros. Despite the crisis, today’s values are similar. Markets believe the Euro will survive, either in its present form (17 countries) or as the currency of a core group of strong countries. Second, investors know that the main alternatives, the US dollar and the British pound, have lost value versus the Euro since 2002 (near 50% and 40% respectively). Experienced investors know that if something isn’t going down on bad news, it is not going to go down. Afonso Vieira is the head of investment management at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at afonso. vieira@t-wm.com
Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi. Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com
sory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City. Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available. Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.
COMPUTERS
Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans. Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards. Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor. SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.
CONSULTING
Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment. Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.
Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.
TORNAK Vietnam 79C Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 09 3351 7402 www.tornak-vietnam.com Tornak Vietnam is an international training consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisations.
Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional acces-
Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252
CAMERAS
www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets. Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology. IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance. Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam. Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals. International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes. Odyssey Resources Limited 7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562Â odyssey-resources.com Leading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents. Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting. Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace. Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services. TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and
Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting. Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies. Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.
DECOR
Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches. Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery. Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves. Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request. Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25. Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs. OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm. Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi www.phuongmai-gallery.com
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people matter
Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh. Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.
ELECTRONICS
Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.
Client Management (Part 2) By Gary Woollacott This month I am going to follow last month’s column about clients—mainly those who receive our service and are very happy with it (their words, not mine) then suddenly get shy when it comes to settling invoices. Or the accounts department can’t locate the invoice because they never received it from the hiring manager, or it has somehow been ‘lost’. This is not only disrespectful to us— or, for that matter, any supplier that has done what it said it would—it’s also ridiculous that large corporations find it appropriate to delay paying bills. And shame on those people who see it as part of their KPIs to hold on to monies that should be paid out—as if they are going to get a bonus for being difficult to deal with. On the other hand, some are dream clients and pay invoices on presentation—and we thank them. And sometimes, sadly, clients waste time by not saying what they mean and not meaning what they say. We probably all do that a little, but there are certain companies that seem unable to tell the truth at a corporate level. And I find that quite astonishing. What happened to those people who were decent when they joined? Were they brainwashed into thinking that they are such a
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big company that it’s okay to lie to suppliers? This is beginning to sound like a rant, but it is very difficult for small and medium sized companies to understand why we should subsidise MNCs’ cash flow. If you’re in that position, please take a look at your processes and ask yourself: is this the right thing to do? Put yourself in the supplier’s shoes (often a small company) and see what your answer is. We had a situation recently where a client we’ve done a lot of work for has just gone very quiet. Did we do something wrong? Following up, we’re told, “I’ll call you back”—then nothing. Well, we’re grown-ups and we can take rejection. If you don’t want to work with us then just say so. We can stop worrying about your assignment and move on; at least we can tell the candidates we’ve submitted that things won’t progress—and that’s only fair to them. As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here. Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.
Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators. Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories. Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.
FURNITURE
Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black. AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more. Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers. Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.
El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist. Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States. Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English. Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe. Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin. Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces. Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use. Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode. The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export. The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.
Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more. Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.
LEGAL
Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam. Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam. Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam. Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets. Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia. Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others. Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects. Rรถdl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.
LIGHTING
Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selec-
tion of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak. Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship. Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk. Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.
MOTORBIKES
Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards. Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.
REAL ESTATE
Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym. CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent. Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city. EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.
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Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales. Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club. The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email. Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease. Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.
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Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties. Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more. Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service. Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.
RECRUITMENT
First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services. HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities. Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising. Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net. Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management. TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.
RELOCATION AGENTS
Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available. Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance. Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh
Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods. UTS Saigon Van Intl’ Relocations HUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.com Full service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble. JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage. Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/ care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support. Resident Vietnam 187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285 www.residentvietnam.com Specializes in immigration management, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance. Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support. UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam 440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 3836 3002 www.unigroupworldwide.com Global mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training.
STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass. Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs. Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered. Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.
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femme fashion
listings
fashion ACCESSORIES
Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more. Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.
Let’s Get Local By Khoi Nguyen While fashion undoubtedly influences the masses through television, magazines and, more recently, Internet blogging, it’s also every day people who influence the world of fashion. People who breathe it are constantly inspired by their surroundings and the people they meet. You know the old saying ‘When in Rome’? Wherever you live, fashion is always around you and no matter how much you try to avoid looking like part of the pack, the gravity of influence will generally be too powerful to resist and one day you’ll just say, “Oh what the hell, give me that ao dai!” This happened to me when I lived in Barcelona for six months. I didn’t cut my hair the entire time, grew a semi scattered beard, tanned myself silly and forgot about shoes simply because these trends were what I was surrounded with. I wanted to be Rafael Nadal. Have you seen an Asian guy with long locks and a face full of hair? Think the evil sorcerer in Big Trouble in Little China. For the first half of my time here in HCM City I was a fashion snob. I swore to never buy anything here because it is mainly made up of poor quality imports from our neighbors China, Korea and Thailand.
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But after being here for four years and no longer having time to take trips elsewhere to shop—and especially when unexpected birthdays suddenly arrive—I’ve succumbed to the craziness of it all. I’m sure we’ve all gone down the District 5 end of Nguyen Trai or to District 3’s Lê Van Sy to take a peek. These streets are simply overwhelmed by the hundreds of shops that line them. I think the main thing that discourages people from entering these stores is the storage room-like display of everything. These stores are generally owned by young people who focus solely on up-to-date trends, rather than any investment on visual merchandising. However don’t be fooled by the exterior—I’ve found some wonderful jewelry pieces, belts and quirky shoes in some of these places. It’s like thrift shopping, Saigon style! I’ve done the leg work for y’all so here are a few gems you should visit: BONJOUR on the Cao Thang end of Vo Van Tan (their buyer has a good eye for funky shoes and good quality fabrics), trendy URBANISTA (Level 1. 42bis Lý Tu Trong) for modern street wear, and LOOP/CECI stores on Nguyen Trai in District 5 for girly dresses and the odd jumpsuit.
Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.
roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night. Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery. Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece. Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions. Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes. J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.
Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men. Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.
Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.
Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.
Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.
Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses. Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship. Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads. Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the
Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags. Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles. Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume
& Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes. Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly. Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.
ACTIVE WEAR
China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few. Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America. Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes. TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.
READY TO WEAR unisex
2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.
BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice. Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops. FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories. L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade. Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices. Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led inte-
Vietnam Quilts specialises in high quality, hand-stitched bed covers, accessories and giftwares. It is an income generation project with all products hand-made by women from rural areas. The income from Vietnam Quilts enables women to remain in their communities and care for their families. Ho Chi Minh: 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 083 914 2119
New shops: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 S17- Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7
Hanoi: 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 043 926 4831
www.mekong-quilts.org
LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn
- www.linhfurniture.com
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style for gents
rior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres. Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes. VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.
men
Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.
Common Aesthetic Issues By Nacho Navarro Dear friends, I will start 2012 with a series of columns discussing how to look better using the last aesthetic technology and innovations. You might have the best style, nicest clothes and chicest haircut. The packaging will make you look better but not as great as you could. If you are not feeling confident about yourself and your body, you will still end up feeling selfconscious. Some of the top concerns I’ve heard from men about their bodies include being overweight (especially on the belly), hair loss, excessive sweating (especially in tropical countries like Vietnam), eyes bags and wrinkles. The good news is that for all of these concerns there are modern aesthetic treatments combined with non-invasive medical procedures. These procedures are no longer limited to celebrities. They are becoming more and more popular and therefore widely available. I am now going to talk about a fascinating concern that affects many men in Vietnam—excessive sweating. Are you tired of sweating all over your shirts and T-shirts? Do you worry about shaking someone’s hand because yours are too sweaty? Do your clothes become dirty due to
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excessive sweat? To understand how to deal with excessive sweating we need to understand why we sweat in excess. Excessive sweating is known, medically, as Hyperhidrosis. The condition is characterised by the overwhelming synthesis of sweat in certain areas such as the hand palms, the soles of the feet, under the arms, and other areas. Sweat is produced by nerve stimulation. To reduce sweat synthesis we can use deodorant, iontophoresis, supraselective devnervation with Botox or, in extreme cases, surgically destroy the paravertebral ganglia that produces sweat (bear in mind that this treatment will require a hospital visit). Iontophoresis consists of weekly applications with an electrical device. Supraselective denervation is the injection of Botox under the skin and is performed once a year with excellent results. Any of these treatments must be done by a qualified dermatologist, but you do not need to go to hospital since most of these treatments are already being done in modern aesthetic clinics. Nacho Navarro is co-founder of Santo Nero®, an Italian exclusive brand for gents. 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.
Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear. Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets. Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves. New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear. The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products. Santo Nero 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 shophcmc@santonero.com The concept shop is the first real Italian shop in HCM City. Santo Nero offers Exclusive Italian Men's Wear, specialising in Italian shirts for any occasion. Clothes boast the best 100% cotton and fine fabrics imported from Italy, Switzerland and Japan. Exclusive accessories are also available here. Open: 9 am until 9 pm, 7 days a week. Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and
unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.
women
Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories. Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials. BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches. Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire. Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli. Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display. Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear. Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza. Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth. Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses. Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to
high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.
Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.
La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.
Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.
Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable. Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts. Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house. Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection. Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear. Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand. Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah. Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by
SHOES
Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design. Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops. Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.
TAILORS
Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories. Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.
Ho Chi Minh City Open 9 am-7 pm everyday Tel: 082 210 3110 141 Bui Vien, District 1 NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 NEW SHOP: S17-1Sky Garden 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, District 7
www.mekong-creations.org
Hanoi Open 9 am-9 pm everyday Tel: 043 926 4831 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem
112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz
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Flo Lobby Lounge at Hotel Equatorial
Photos by Fred Wissink
82 asialife HCMC
Peroni Launch at Flow
Saigon Scooter Centre Charity Run
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boxoffice
Alvin and the Chipmunks: Chip-Wrecked
The Darkest Hour 3D
The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo
Toi Nay, 8 Gio
Alvin and the Chipmunks: ChipWrecked provides Chipmunk fans with another hilarious and endearing installment featuring Alvin, Simon, Theodore and the rest of the lovable gang. On holiday, the Chipmunks and Chipettes are turning a luxury cruise liner into their personal playground until they become shipwrecked, or ‘chipwrecked’, on a deserted island. As the Chipmunks and Chipettes try various schemes to find their way back home, they accidentally discover that their newfound island is not as deserted as they had originally thought.
Starring Emile Hirsch, Max Minghella and Olivia Thirlby, The Darkest Hour is the suspenseful story of five young people who find themselves stranded in Moscow, fighting to survive in the wake of a devastating alien attack. The protagonists lead the charge against an alien race who have attacked Earth via our power supply. The Science Fiction 3D feature film combines mindblowing special effects from filmmaker Timur Bekmambetov. Audiences are sure to be blown away by Director Chris Gorak’s extraordinary vision.
In this remake of 2009’s Swedish thriller, a journalist (Daniel Craig) and a computer hacker discover that even the wealthiest families have skeletons in their closets. Inspired by Stieg Larsson’s trilogy of books, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo starts out with the two protagonists being briefed about the disappearance of Harriet Vanger, whose uncle suspects she was killed by a member of their own family. The deeper they dig for the truth, however, the more danger they put themselves in.
Toi nay, 8 gio, written and directed by Le Hoang, follows the journey of four girls who live and work in the countryside. They are all young and beautiful, but have very different personalities and attitudes about life. They plan to attract rich men to change their lives. The girls meet Nam, an intellectual and Hai, an undisputed bad boy. The relationship between the girls and their new male friends creates humour while exploring deeper issues related to love and life.
Opening Dates CINEMAS M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net
G: Galaxy www.Galaxycine.vn
86 asialife HCMC
Alvin and the Chipmunks (December 23) The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (January 6) Toi nay, 8 gio (December 23) The Darkest Hour 3D (December 30)
The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.
bookshelf Adam and Evelyn Ingo Schulze Knopf
A recently published translation of Adam and Evelyn brings popular German writer Ingo Schulze to an Anglophone audience. The novel takes place in East Germany, 1989, just as the Berlin Wall is set to fall. When Evelyn catches her boyfriend Adam, a tailor, having an affair with a client, she takes off to Hungary. Leaving his happy Garden of Eden, Adam goes after her, smuggling a refugee from Czechoslovakia across the Hungarian border along the way. The couple’s domestic rift takes place against the greater historical happenings, as Schulze approaches the end of East Germany with a nuanced, personal understanding.
Hedy’s Folly: The Life and Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Most Beautiful Woman in the World Richard Rhodes Doubleday
Louis B Mayer, head of MGM Studios, described Hedy Lamarr as “the most beautiful girl in the world.” More than just a beauty, the Vienna-born Hollywood starlet also had brains. In Hedy’s Folly, Richard Rhodes writes about the actress’s colourful life and her knack for innovation. In the early 1940s, Lamarr collaborated with classical composer George Antheil to devise and patent a torpedo with a progressive radio-guidance system. Rhodes highlights how their concept helped contribute to the wireless technology we use today - a credit finally acknowledged in 1997 when the Electronic Frontier Foundation honoured Lamarr and Antheil with the Pioneer Award.
The Sea Is My Brother Jack Kerouac Penguin Classics
Every established author has his chef d’oeuvre. For Jack Kerouac considered the documentarian of the Beat Generation 1951’s On The Road was his masterpiece. But as with any writer, Kerouac’s celebrated prose was a product of development as much as talent. The Sea Is My Brother, a lost manuscript now published in its entirety for the first time, presents the writer’s early scribbles before he found his voice. Written in 1943, when Kerouac was aged 20, the novella was his first book. The Sea follows Wesley Martin, a seaman whose exploits are inspired by Kerouac’s own time as a Merchant Marine.
When She Woke Hillary Jordan Algonquin
Hillary Jordan’s unsettling When She Woke tells the story of Hannah Payne, a re-imagined Hester Prynne in a futuristic dystopia. Like the protagonist of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s The Scarlet Letter, Hannah is shamed for violating her society’s norms. Now under a puritanical religious regime, America has outlawed abortion in nearly all states. When Payne terminates her pregnancy the result of an affair with a celebrity evangelist she is charged with murder and forced to undergo public melachroming. The punishment involves a process of injections that turns her skin permanently red, subjecting her to life-long outsider status. The book is a thought-provoking examination of stigma and civilisation.
asialife HCMC 87
soundfix album review
by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen
The Black Keys
The Roots
Korallreven
Laura Veirs
El Camino
undun
An Album
Tumble Bee
Success has been good to The Black Keys. After releasing five albums over the past decade to gain moderate popularity, the Ohio rock duo broke through with last year’s Grammywinning Brothers. Not ones to rest on their laurels, The Black Keys have returned with a seventh album that’s even better than the last. Recorded in Tennessee, produced by Danger Mouse and influenced by The Clash, El Camino is a hodgepodge of memorable riffs, gritty distortion and punchy lyrics all tossed together with an infectious energy. There’s some new swagger in their step, and the rocking rhythms of “Lonely Boy” and “Gold on the Ceiling” or the reggae-reminiscent “Hell of a Season” will put some bounce in listeners’ steps too.
In this era of iTunes pick-andchoose track selecting, albums are rarely appreciated as cohesive entities. Trust The Roots—a Philadelphia-based hip hop collective—to take on the challenge. Their 13th record, undun, is a concept album, narrating the story of fictional character Redford Stephens. The album begins with “Dun”, a track representing Redford’s ultimate demise, going backwards to depict his struggles hustling on the streets. Though best known for their 2003 party hit “The Seed (2.0)”, The Roots have always pushed the envelope on genre classification, and Undun is no exception, with nods towards rock, soul and jazz - even featuring an instrumental contribution from indie artist Sufjan Stevens. Overall, it’s a smooth, thoughtful effort that proves a whole deserves to be taken as the sum of its parts.
Although it’s been two years since Korrallreven released first single, “Loved-Up”, their followers have been patient - a recent show in London saw a packed house only a few weeks after the debut LP release. It helps that one part of the Swedish duo is Daniel Tjäder of Radio Department, but the music speaks for itself. Dreamy melodies, with gossamer layers of yearning vocals, evoke Scandinavian sensibilities for lush, emotional sound. The album title may be simple, but the production is not, as staccato rhythms in “Sa Sa Samoa” and the pulsating synthesiser of “As Young As Yesterday” lend further depth. Lyrics are repetitive - often consisting of the song’s name sung over and over - but these tunes are more about atmosphere than content.
Trying to tame a hysterical child? Try folk songs. Singer songwriter Laura Veirs’ Tumble Bee is the perfect music to pacify - and parents will also appreciate hearing something more creative than “The Wheels on the Bus”. Inspired by the birth of her son, velvetvoiced Veirs set out to produce her first record for the little ones. She amassed a collection of American folk music ranging from sleepy (“Prairie Lullaby”) to foot-tapping (“Jump Down Spin Around”), adding in some more far-reaching numbers as calypso tune “Jamaica Farewell” and Civil War tune “Soldier’s Joy”, a duet with The Decemberists’ Colin Meloy. For a bedtime serenade, “Prairie Dream” is a delicate instrumental piano piece that’ll prove more effective than counting sheep.
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endorsed
xoneFM top ten Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last
week week
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artist Westlife Lady Antebellum Lady Gaga LMFAO Bruno Mars Justin Bieber Hot Chelle Ray feat New Boyz Sara Bareilles feat R. Tedder Britney Spears Rihanna
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Lighthouse Just a Kiss Marry the Night Sexy and I Know it It Will Rain Mistletoe I Like it Like That
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Gonna Get Over You
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6 New
Criminal You Da One
US Top 10 this last
week week
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We Found Love
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Sexy and I Know it Without You
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The One That Got Away It Will Rain Stereo Hearts
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Good Feeling Moves Like Jagger
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Someone Like You You Make Me Feel
artist Rihanna feat Calvin Harris LMFAO David Guetta feat Usher Katy Perry Bruno Mars Gym Class Heroes feat Adam Flo Rida Maroon 5 feat Christina Aguilera Adele Cobra Starship feat Sabi
UK Top 10 this last
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New 7 1
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Cannonball Paradise Dance With Me Tonight Dedication to my Ex (Miss That) We Found Love
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Good Feeling Levels Hurt Lego House 5 O'Clock
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artist Little Mix Coldplay Olly Murs Lloyd feat Andre 3000/ Lil Wayne Rihanna feat Calvin Harris Flo Rida Avicii Leona Lewis Ed Sheeran T-Pain/Wiz Khalifa/Lily Allen
Dr. Martens By Chris Mueller The first time I ever saw a pair of Dr. (Doc) Martens, I was lying on my back in a mosh pit and its very recognisable sole was stomping my face in. When I was pulled to my feet, I had blood pouring out of my nose and a big smile. I was at the local community centre where punk bands would play and clueless high schoolers would violently dance to really horrible music. For any true, self respecting punk, it was required to dress the part. Dr. Martens have been a quintessential part of the punk uniform since the genre’s beginning. With their thick air-cushioned soles and plain black leather, the classic design is everything a punk needs; durable, simple and working class, but still looks cool. Through the years, I have always had a pair of Dr. Martens for one reason; they are made to take abuse. This also makes them perfect for Vietnam. Driving motorbikes everyday on these crowded, dirty, often flooded streets can wear down any pair of shoes. I don’t know if it’s because of this, but they have become popular in Vietnam, especially the horrendously ugly sandals that seem to be a fad among teenagers. Most shopping
malls have Dr. Marten outlets, and a few shops can be found in other parts of the city. Despite the fact that many Dr. Martens are made in Vietnam for export, the local outlets usually double the price. I recently bought a pair when I was home in the States for US$60, the same pair cost US$120 in Vietnam. The story of Dr. Martens began in 1960 when Bill Griggs from the English Midlands teamed up with German inventor Dr. Maerten, who had invented an air-cushioned sole. The first pair of boots rolled off the production line on April 1, 1960, and they haven’t stopped coming since. First sold as a workingman’s boot, they become popular among youth subculture groups that had ties to the working class. A few years later, Pete Townshend of The Who wore a pair on stage and Dr. Martens became known as a subculture necessity from then on. Although you can still get the classic boots, or low-cut shoes, there are now loads of options. Whether you need something more refined to wear with a suit or just an every day casual shoe, you can find what you need. Just please don’t wear the sandals.
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radar The past is a foreign country. This is your passport
retronaut.co If a single picture is worth a thousand words, then Retronaut could fill several libraries’ worth of books. This site features countless photographs from the past, both recent and distant, ordered into several categories. You can browse the 20th and 21st centuries by decade, while the entire 19th century is under one tab, and everything that came before 1800 under another. The World Wars have their own pages, and you can also view images by more specific categories: Celebs, Colour, Maps, Sport, etc. Retronaut is a must for anyone interested in photography or history.
Face down on a Korean street
blackoutkorea.com South Korea is notorious for its brutal corporate work environment—extremely long hours under pressure from your boss, tough competition from other companies, etc. It shouldn’t come as a surprise, then, that many businesspeople end up passed out in public after a night of drinking to blow off some steam after work. Blackout Korea posts pictures sent in by locals and visitors from Korea of people that have drank themselves unconscious. Favourites include a young man sprawled on the floor of an elevator, numerous people sitting Indian-style in the middle of a pavement, and one bold fellow with his head resting on an actual road.
Googlemaps for us!
diadiem.com Navigating Saigon’s streets and alleys can be a challenge even for those of us with an excellent sense of direction. Numbers restarting? Street names randomly changing? Troi oi! Most paper maps are useless, and while Googlemaps can tell you where most streets are, it has no idea where a given address on that street is. Fear no more, for Dia Diem is here to help. This site, which is in English and Vietnamese, tells you exactly where any prominent business is by pinpointing it precisely on its street, and it even provides directions from one location to another. Now if only it could solve the city’s traffic jams…
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THE TWO OF US Moving at different times from Florida to Vietnam has meant Josh Baker and his younger sister Marina have had a less than conventional sibling relationship in recent years. They tell Brett Davis how their experience has forged a unique bond.
Josh Marina was here a year and a half before I was. I came to Vietnam in 2008 for a one-month holiday and didn’t go home. I ended up staying because the lifestyle suited me. Plus there wasn’t much happening in the States. Because of the financial crisis my boat building business was not going very well. Everyone was losing their house so they weren’t going to buy 400,000-dollar boats. It was definitely an advantage having family here. You’re not walking into it blind, you get the heads up of where to go, what to do. They pretty much scouted out the area before I got here. Marina was essentially taking care of me, I guess, when I first arrived. She certainly had more local knowledge then. After three years my roots are set here in Vietnam. My job as a tour manager is definitely a plus. It makes it easier to stay in one place, and not be a backpacker travelling around different places. It keeps me settled in Saigon.
Marina Marina and I were pretty close in the States, she lived with me for three months while dad was over here. It was actually me and my girlfriend and her brother. I was the father, I guess. My dad was travelling back and forth every six weeks for his work in laser optics, but now he lives in Vietnam fulltime. I play more of the older-brother, protective role with Marina now. I’m helping dad raise her and keep an eye on the little sister in the big city. She is 13, living in a foreign country, so she is very openminded and very open to change. I think it’s good for her to be exposed to that at a young age. Maybe she won’t live here forever, she might go back once she has finished school, it’s her choice. But hopefully it opens her mind or expands her paradigm to different cultures and different ways of life. The plusses to having family here is, well, family. Our family is different to most, because we’re more like friends.
I was seven when I first came to Vietnam. I lived here for two and a half years. It was sad at first because I had to leave all my friends. It was not really scary but it was kind of exciting. I went to school at Saigon South International School, where I go now. I was living with Josh and his girlfriend. It was sad to leave them but I think it was for the better, because I guess it was just hard for him and his girlfriend and her brother to look after me, to have to be parents. It was kind of a strange experience. Josh came for my birthday in August of 2008 and never left. It was really good to see him again and I was happy for him that he decided to stay here. After two and a half years in Vietnam I went back to the states for two years. Yeah, I’ve had a very different childhood than my friends back home. I think it has been a good thing though, because I’m not like
everybody else. I hope to be in Vietnam until I finish high school. I spoke more Vietnamese than Josh did when he arrived so I helped him out. But now he knows more than I do, he can speak everything. I think he is still like my dad because he watches out for me when I’m with him. I still look out for him, though, in some ways. What kind of a brother is Josh? He’s a good brother, he’s caring. I think we are closer because we are in a different country than we grew up in. Also, we are together and he is older and I’m the youngest and we watch out for each other in a way that others don’t. He has had to be my guardian but now he is more like my brother, yet still my guardian when I’m with him, like on tour. We consider ourselves buddies as well as brother and sister. It’s good, and we have a lot of fun.
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Keeping Tabs
Do not give the gift of cuttle-fish, and other advice on surviving Tet from Tabitha Carvan.
I remember my first Tet in Vietnam, back when I was only a newly arrived expat. It seemed like a terrifying minefield of potential cultural faux pas. This was exacerbated by reading the Wikipedia entry on Tet customs, which could also be filed under the heading, 'How you are guaranteed to offend your gracious host nation without even trying'. For example, the Wikipedia entry says you must give gifts during Tet, but, whatever you do, you mustn’t give one of the following: clocks, cats, scissors or cuttle-fish. Reading this, you’re led to believe that any one of clocks, cats, scissors or cuttle-fish could actually be a possible Tet gift. Like, you’ll walk into a shop and the shelves will be filled with Tet hampers, 92 asialife HCMC
dragon fruit, and cats. Whatever you do, don’t choose the cats. It also says you mustn’t eat shrimp in case, and I quote, “one would move backwards like shrimp, in other words, one would not succeed”. And yet in the same entry it says one of the traditional Tet foods which you must eat is “fatty pork stomach and medium boiled eggs stewed in a broth-like sauce overnight”. I tell you what, that bodes pretty ill to me, and no doubt results in its own fair share of backwards movements. Wearing white is apparently also a no-no, but seriously, who wears white in Vietnam anyway, except for middle-aged French tourists who think they’re Catherine Deneuve in Indochine. Also, you mustn’t be the first guest to arrive at someone’s
house the morning of Tet, but what are the chances of you, a lazy long-nose, even being awake at the time Vietnamese families start receiving guests, let alone being the first one there? Zero. In fact, at that hour you’re probably still out from the night before. One custom which actually is important is the one of 'fresh starts' where debts are paid, new things are acquired (also known as 'stolen', probably from you), and moves are made. This can manifest itself in strange ways, such as when my workplace decided it was more important to move into a new office location before Tet – in order to soak up all that lucky New Year goodness – than it was to wait until that office was actually finished being built.
“THIS NEW OFFICE SURE DOES FEEL LUCKY!” I would shout to my colleagues over the din of jackhammers, as I brushed falling asbestos dust off my computer keyboard. Now that I’m an old hand at Tet, I know better than to give too much credence to Wikipedia entries. What you really need to be concerned about is knowing just how many preserved fruits you can eat before your mouth actually turns inside out from the salty-sourness, just how many times you can hear Abba’s Happy New Year before you go postal, and just how long you need to leave to get to the airport to catch your flight out of here. To read more from Tabitha visit thecitythatneversleepsin.com.
pub quiz 23) The song Moon River won an academy award. For which film? 24) Sun Myung Moon is the founder and leader of which worldwide organisation? 25) Phobos and Deimos orbit which planet?
Celebrity Gods and Godesses 26)
Silver 6) Which circuit is known as “The Home of British Motor Racing"? 7) Who created the fictional character Long John Silver? 8) Which film starring Sharon Stone, William Baldwin and Tom Berenger is an anagram of silver? 9) John Cleese played the Sheriff in which western? 10) Norrin Radd, a young astronomer of the planet ZennLa became which superhero?
Honey 16) Whose best known play is A Taste of Honey? 17) Which breakfast cereal is a favourite of the Honey Monster? 18) Who played Honey Ryder in the film Dr. No? 19) How is the small mammal, the ratel, better known, despite the fact that it is largely carnivorous? 20) What is the popular name for the Cucumis melo?
Moon 21) How is Beethoven’s Piano Sonata No. 14 in C# minor better known? 22) Which actor got his big break in Moonlighting? 94 asialife HCMC
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Cream 11) Who was the guitarist and vocalist in the band Cream? 12) The song Cream, featured on whose 1991 album Diamonds and Pearls? 13) Which cream cheese has been produced in the United States since 1872? 14) Which liquor means mint cream? 15) What, in nature, is a Creamcoloured Courser?
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Pub Quiz Answers
1) Which military base in North Kentucky holds the US Gold reserves? 2) Which group had a UK No.2 hit in 1983 with a song entitled 'Gold'? 3) A flag consisting of 12 gold stars on blue background represents which organisation? 4) Which country produces three quarters of the world's gold requirements? 5) Which female sang the title song to the James Bond film Goldfinger?
1) Fort Knox 2) Spandau Ballet 3) European Union (and the Council of Europe) 4) South Africa 5) Shirley Bassey 6) Silverstone 7) Robert Louis Stevenson 8) Sliver 9) Silverado 10) Silver Surfer 11) Eric Clapton 12) Prince (and the New Power Generation) 13) Philadelphia 14) Crème de menthe 15) A water bird 16) Shelagh Delaney 17) Sugar Puffs 18) Ursula Andress 19) Honey Badger 20) Honeydew 21) Moonlight Sonata 22) Bruce Willis 23) Breakfast at Tiffany’s 24) Unification Church (sometimes known as the Moonies) 25) Mars 26) John Malkovich 27) Brendan Fraser 28) Madonna 29) Arnold Schwarzenegger 30) John Wayne
Gold
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