AsiaLIFE HCMC 44

TET HOLIDAY PACKAGE 2012 US$ 310++/ night for Hill Top Villa or Spa Suite Villa US$ 360++/ night for One Bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa US$ 560++/ night for Two Bedroom Beachfront Pool Villa US$ 570++/ night for Water Villa or Rock Villa US$ 1160++/ night for Presidential Villa (The rate is in US dollar, subject to 5% service charge & 10% tax)

. . . . .

Including:

1 night stay at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Daily breakfast buffet

Shuttle bus airport and boat transfers

.

A bottle of sparkling wine upon arrival

Refreshing welcome drink and fruit basket

Complimentary services: internet, snorkeling and kayaking

.. .

Terms & Conditions:

Stay validity from 22 Jan 2012 to 29 Jan 2012 Based on twin share and minimum 2 nights Applicable for Vietnamese and Expatriate Whole family will be maximum 2 adults + 2 children under 12 years old, sharing per room The package rate can not be combined with any bonus night or other offers.

Please mention “TET holiday� program on each booking

.

.

.

Tel: +84 58 3 524 268 - Fax: +84 58 3 524 704 Email: reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com

AsiaLIFE volume 44

www.asialifehcmc.com

22 front

08 News & Events 14 Dispatches

food

40 Sterling's Saigon 41 My Place

15 Street Smart: Phan Xich Long

42 Salt and Pepper

18 Q&A with Danniel Amadio

43 Lau Ca Keo Ba Huyen

20 Photo Essay: Down

on the cover

24 Nothing will Ever be the Same

storyboard

30 Russian Paradise

style & design

44 An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay 46 Connoisseur: Lavender 48 Mighty Aphrodite

32 Behind the ABCs 34 A Tiger by the Tail

back

52 The List 86 Spotlight 88 Street Guide

getaways

36 Into the Mountains

96 The Two of Us

38 On the Trail to Everest

97 Keeping Tabs

98 Pub Quiz

Base Camp

36 Cover Model Jake Houseago Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink

4 asialife HCMC

44

note from the editor

Brett Davis

I was riding my bike one day around noon, along Tran Hung Dao in District 1. I had only been in Vietnam for a couple of months but had bought the Yamaha Nouvo almost as soon as I had arrived, as it was instantly apparent motorbike was the only practical means of getting around the city.

At the time I was working for a company with offices on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and had ducked home for lunch. The traffic was fairly light as I approached the intersection with Nguyen Thai Hoc, and the timer indicated the green light still had about five seconds remaining. There was a small van in front of me so I did not notice the traffic from the right side of the intersection get-

ting a jump on their turn through the intersection.

In an instant there were a couple of bikes stopped in front of me, encroaching into the intersection but going neither forward nor back. It would not have made a difference as everything happened in a split second.

Both brakes locked up, my bike had almost stopped by the time it made contact with the front fairing of the machine opposite me, but the forward momentum still sent me sailing over the handlebars.

Somehow I rolled on the bitumen and was almost instantly on my feet, swearing vehemently.

Fortunately there were only a few minor scratches on both the bike and myself. The other guy was

Khoa Nguyen Khoa graduated from Van Lang University this year, majoring in Restaurant and Hotel Management. During his time as a student he held a number of part-time jobs. It was during this period that he came to realise his true ability and passion lay in the field of communications. Joining 365days communications as a public relations executive is the beginning of his journey. When not at the office he can often be found reading his favourite self-improvement books.

still sitting astride his motorbike staring at me, along with a thousand other pairs of eyes.

After extricating myself from the obligatory demands for all sorts of amounts of cash I rode away, probably still in shock.

It was a humbling experience, and a reminder to me of the catastrophe that is always only seconds away on the roads in Vietnam. This month we look at the issue of road safety and talk to some people who have had close calls and others who have had to deal with the ultimate heartbreak. We also hear from some dedicated souls working every day to make the roads of this country safer.

Take it easy out there. Drive carefully and get home safe.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

112011 ISSUE59

Cambodia

The guide to life in the Kingdom

DANCING IN THE SHADOW OF ANKOR

Chris Mueller After graduating with a degree in journalism in upstate New York in 2009, Chris Mueller left for Asia looking for excitement and anyone willing to pay him to write.

After a brief stint working for a couple of publications in Mumbai, India he headed toward Southeast Asia and arrived in Vietnam in 2010, where he has been since. While living in Vietnam he has written and edited for several magazines and newspapers in Vietnam and abroad.

6 asialife HCMC

www.asialifeguide.com

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PRE-SCHOOL PRIMARY SECONDARY

IT’S OFFICIAL – 100% IB DIPLOMAS AWARDED! RISS IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT ALL STUDENTS IN THE CLASS OF 2011 WERE EACH AWARDED THEIR IB DIPLOMA

IB SCHOLARSHIP 2011 - 2012 RISS is pleased to announce the continuation of its Scholarship Programme.

Scholarships equivalent to 50% of annual fees to students with a minimum of 5 A’s or A* grades at IGCSE (valued at US$ 17,800 over 2 years) and of 20% to students with a minimum of 5 grade C’s or higher (valued at US$ 7,120 over 2 years).

Applicants to the IB programme who have not studied IGCSE, may be awarded scholarships based on the results of an entrance examination.

REGISTRATION

Applications are now being received for academic year 2011 – 2012.

Limited places are available from Pre-Nursery to Year 12.

Visit: www.rissaigon.edu.vn Email: admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Binh Thuan Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam, Tel: (84-8) 377 33 171 -- Fax: (84-8) 377 33 176

NEWS Nguyen Thai Tuan at San Art

The solo exhibition ‘Fullness of Absence’ from locally trained painter Nguyen Thai Tuan will run at San Art from November 10 until December 16. Nguyen Thai Tuan, whose works are coming to the attention of public museum collections abroad, is unique to the landscape of art in this country as his style quietly challenges the social mindset of contemporary Vietnam. San Art is situated on 3 Me Linh in Binh Thanh District.

The artist will be present on the opening day. Visit san-art.org or contact Nhung Le at art@san-art. org.

Upcoming Total Wealth Management Workshops

On Saturday November 5 from 1.30 pm until 3 pm, attend the ‘Know Your Finances’ workshop, which will highlight important issues such as debt management, emergency savings and retirement planning. An HR Manager

8 asialife HCMC

EVENTS Workshop will also be held on Saturday November 12 from 1.30 until 3 pm. TWM partner Shane Dillion will explain how to get the best out of your employees in Vietnam.

During TWM’s 30-day personal finance challenge, perform a financial exercise every day for the month to get into the best financial shape of your life. For further information, registration or to sign up for the challenge, contact Karin Eisenbach at karin.eisenbach@twm.com, call 08 3820 0623 or click on to t-wm.com/Workshops. html.

Intercontinental Asiana Saigon Again Awarded ‘Vietnam’s Leading Hotel’

InterContinental Asiana Saigon has earned the title of ‘Vietnam’s Leading Hotel 2011’ for the second year in a row at the World Travel Awards reception. World Travel Awards takes a global lead on one of the most important aspects of travel and tourism–the

quality of customer experience.

Strong support from the hotel’s owner and dedication from the IHG management brings the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Hotel and Residences to the forefront of the HCM City accommodation sector.

The International Choir and Orchestra of HCM City’s Christmas Concert

The International Choir and Orchestra of HCM City is holding its annual Christmas concert on Friday December 2 and Saturday December 3 at 7.30 pm. Entry is by donation but guests are recommended to match what they would spend on dinner at a nice restaurant. All donations will go to support Poussiers de Vie and the Loreto Vietnam-Australia Foundation. Arrive early, as there is no reserved seating. St. Paul’s Convent is located at 4 Bis Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1. For further details on the choir and orchestra, visit hcmcchoir.com.

Caravelle Achieves EarthCheck Certification

The iconic Caravelle Hotel is proving itself to be ahead of the curve when it comes to running an environmentally sound hotel. The EarthCheck Program recently announced the Caravelle’s achievement of the Earthcheck Silver Certificate.

EarthCheck Certification is a globally recognised system that has been adopted by leaders in the travel and tourism industry.

Third party auditors incorporate annual measurements of key indicators such as energy and water consumption, paper and chemical use, waste treatment and community involvement to determine whether a hotel meets criteria for certification.

Special Concert ‘The Lyrical Piano’ by Aaaron Edward Carpene

The Australian Consulate-General in HCM City is hosting a classical music concert, ‘The Lyrical Piano’,

featuring accomplished Australian performer and conductor Aaron Edward Carpene on Wednesday November 9 at the Youth Cultural House. The concert will feature classical pieces by Felix Mendelssohn, Muzio Clementi and Franz Liszt. Carpene will be joined by local performers Duc Tuan and Hong Chau. Contact Hang at the Australian Consulate-General, call 08 3521 8134 or email chau-thuy. hang@dfat.gov.au for registration.

Mekong Creations is Launching Great Gifts to Celebrate Christmas

This year, deck the halls with Mekong Creations’ limited edition golden batik laptop and iPad cases, stylish handbags, papier mâché and rattan ornaments, and silk and bamboo ornaments. The range also offers beautiful table runners that are sure to brighten up any dining table. Mekong Creations is a social enterprise supported by the parent NGO Mekong Plus. It aims to provide sustainable employment to help women in poor rural villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. Visit mekong-creations.org or stop by 141 Bui Vien.

Help Support H2H

H2H is looking for riders to take part in its third annual charity bike ride from Hanoi to HCM City in February 2012. The 20-strong

team will cycle 2000km to raise money for education and healthcare for Vietnam’s poorest children. Founded by a group of Saigon-based English teachers, H2H has raised over $60,000 for charities in Vietnam in its first two years. H2H is working in partnership with The Children’s Initiative and Saigon Children’s Charity. H2H is also seeking corporate sponsorship for the event. The 2012 riders will be wearing team shirts carrying sponsors’ logos, which have been donated by Abprotriathalon.

Sponsors will also be promoted via fundraising events, H2H on-line, all fundraising emails and media outlets. Talk to Chris Rolls (rollscj@ hotmail.com or 01212379652) or Nick Kemp (sleepynick2000@ gmail.com or 0933962514). You can email hanoi2hcmc@gmail.com or check h2hcharityride.org.

ISHCMC Celebrates Opening of New Wing

The International School of HCM City (ISHCMC) has just opened its new wing. The innovative building houses a brand new gymnasium, two state of the art science labs and 12 additional classrooms.

ISHCMC has also modernized their current facilities this year adding a 25 metre, solar heated, six lane swimming pool and a large outdoor pitch with an artificial grass playing surface imported

Anantara to Rebrand L'Anmien

The luxury discovery brand Anantara will rebrand the existing L’Anmien Beach Resort to Anantara Mui Ne Resort and Spa starting on November 1. Located next to Phan Thiet, Anantara Mui Ne Resort and Spa is named after a Mui Ne fishing village, in which it occupies an enviable central shoreline position.

Guests will have 89 rooms, suites and pool villas to choose from, ranging from 42 square metres to the 178 square metre presidential suite, which offers different lagoon, pool and beach perspectives. 20 pool villas will boast a private lounge, open-air bathroom, private swimming pool, and spectacular outlook of the gardens, lagoon, pool or beachfront. Food and beverage outlets marry the resort’s magnificent views with local delicacies and international flair. Amenities will include a luxurious spa, a stunning beach swimming pool, a fitness centre with modern gym equipment, and a well equipped reading lounge providing books. Visit anantara.com/mui-ne.

Bazaar @ MM

from Italy, designed for multi-age, multi-sport activities. ISHCMC also introduced their new Lenovo tablet program this week, making it the only school in HCM City that has a one-to-one tablet program in both Middle and High School.

CMI Charity Gala

The CMI (International Medical Center) charity gala will occur on Saturday November 12 in the garden of the Consulate General of

France. The event, organised with Lys Event Company, will start at 6 pm with cocktails, followed by a fine dinner, live entertainment and dancing. Entrance tickets are US $100 at CMI, AFV, and Exotissimo An Phu. With numerous sponsors, the gala aims to raise funds to finance 29 cardiac surgeries to poor Vietnamese children at The Heart Institute in HCM City.

There will be both a silent and live auction taking place. For further

Consular Club holds 18th annual Charity Bazaar

Saturday Nov 19 from 3:00 pm till 9:00 pm Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, Dist. 2

Let’s kick of the season Christmas menu; turkey, ham, glühwein, music and candle light, all sorts of international delicacies to take home, and our vendors will do their utmost to bring you season related gifts to buy... an event not to be missed!

For Bazaar enquiries contact: bazaar.at.mm@gmail.com

The November 19 Consular Club Charity Bazaar will take place from 10 am until 2 pm at Diamond Place (15A Ho Van Hue, Phu Nhuan District). The bazaar is organised by members of the Consular Club, a group made up of members from the various diplomatic missions and trade representatives in HCM City.

Entry tickets are 80,000 VND for adults. Children under 10 enter free of charge and can have their photo taken with Santa Claus.

In addition to purchasing international goods and food, visitors can buy raffle tickets for 50,000 VND. All raffle prizes are valued at more than US $100. Proceeds are redistributed to help those less fortunate in the community through scholarships, medical care, rainwater purification, flood relief and more. Email the Consular Club at CharityBazaarHCMC@gmail.com or visit consularclub.com.

Vedana Lagoon Becomes Fully Operational

Proceeds go to following charity:

Sponsored by As of October, Vedana Lagoon Resort and Spa has moved out of its ‘soft opening’ phase and has become a fully operational accomodation. For further information, contact lam@pilgrimagevillage.com, lam@vedanalagoon.com or visit vedanalagoon.com

10 asialife HCMC

REACHING NEW HEIGHTS MBA - EXECUTIVE MASTER OF PROJECT MANAGEMENT Meet the challenges of today’s fast-paced global business environment with an RMIT post-graduate qualification. The skills and knowledge gained will complement your experience and assist you to progress your career.

Enhance your leadership potential Engage with internationally recognised experts Excel in a global learning environment Extend your business skills.

Programs commencing February 2012 Contact (08) 3776 1369 or visit www.rmit.edu.vn for details

Reach new heights. Apply today!

information call Floriane at 01 256 404 703 or check cmi-vietnam. com.

The Stories of a Girl: A Photo Exhibition

Since 2005, it is estimated that at least 28,000 Vietnamese girls and women have been trafficked abroad for the purposes of sexual and labour exploitation. Stories of a Girl is a collection of photos taken by 18 trafficking survivors,

now returned to Vietnam, in the Pacific Links Foundation’s ADAPT reintegration program.

The exhibition will be held at FLOW (88 Ho Tung Mau, District 1) on Wednesday November 30 from 6.30 until 9 pm. Founded in 2005, ADAPT leads countertrafficking efforts by providing shelter and reintegration services, increasing access to education, and enabling new economic opportunities.

Agapestro Enters Dining Scene

New French venture Agapestro will feature dishes from all over France plus some locally influenced specialties. Seafood will feature prominently, as will foie gras and other traditional French delicacies. The combination of style and elegance, grace and hospitality are reflected in the restaurant’s atmosphere. Formal dining rooms are furnished with a selection of antiques from the early 20th century, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere. Visit Agapestro at the River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2 or call 0903669252.

Meet Charlie, ARC’s Pet of the Month

Hi, I’m Charlie. I’m 35 weeks old and have been living in ARC’s District 2 cat room since March. I was found—together with my brother—in a cardboard box when I was really small. My brother was adopted in April but I have not found an owner yet.

I’m friendly, well behaved, and I like giving—and receiving—lots of cuddles. I especially love getting pats on my belly. I’m comfortable around other kitties, strangers and children. I am an indoor cat and I have already been neutered, de-wormed, and treated for ticks and fleas. If you can offer me a safe, comfortable, loving home, please contact Animal Rescue and Care at arcfostadopt@gmail.com or call 01634877240.

asialife HCMC 13

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Stylish Cruising Aboard a Life Resorts Junk

The first of Life Heritage Resort Ha Long Bay’s fleet of 22 junks has taken to the waters for overnight and day trips. Passengers can select their course from a ‘menu’ of attractions in the bay. Junks boast a 32-square-metre cabin featuring local Vietnamese touches and wide panoramic windows. Lounge on the upper deck or unwind in a private timber-style cabin, which features an en suite bathroom, air conditioning, heating, and an LCD television. Enjoy complimentary kayaks, snorkeling equipment and fishing gear. Each 13-metre junk is manned by a dedicated, three-person crew and maintains 24-hour direct contact with on-shore emergency services.

Currently, a two-day/one-night cruise goes for US $638, while a day package is $345. Three-day/two-night cruises will be available for $1,254 starting November 4. Check out life-resorts.com for internet rates. Contact Life Resorts at +84 3844 3605 or email sales@ life-resorts.com.

A Wholesome Retreat

The Chedi Muscat is now a luxurious haven for health nuts. The hotel just unveiled a 2,500-square-metre spa and fitness facility that allows guests and members to buff up in style by the shores of the Gulf of Oman.

The new spa, with its blend of Omani architecture and contemporary Asian design, is massive. The spa’s opening marks a first for the resort’s operators, Singapore-based GHM (General Hotel Management). Revamped wellness amenities include the Long Pool, a 103-metre outdoor swimming pool; a 400-square-metre health club; eight private spa treatment rooms; separate men’s and women’s steam and sauna areas; and a relaxation lounge, in addition to the Serai Pool, the Chedi Pool and two floodlit tennis courts.

Room rates start at US $466 for a Serai-superior room and go up to $1,246 for the Chedi-suites. For more information, visit GHMhotels.com or call +96 2452 4400.

Art Deco Meets Gothic

It’s not easy to come up with an original concept but newly opened Hotel Muse in Bangkok pulls it off. Towering 25 storeys along Langsuan Road in the city’s centre, the hotel’s eclectic interior is full of opulent art and design elements inspired by the golden era of King Rama V. Featuring 174 lavish guestrooms along with an array of dining and entertainment venues, Hotel Muse promises to be the newest hotspot for locals and visitors alike.

Guests staying in Bangkok around mid-November may be able to catch Loi Khratong, ‘festival of lights’, whereby thousands of ornately decorated traditional banana leaf floats are set adrift in waterways.

Hotel Muse is offering a special introductory rate of US$ 185 for a Jatu Deluxe Room via www.accor.com. For more information about the hotel, click on to mgallery.com or call +66 2630 4000. – Ellen Boonstra

14 asialife HCMC

Street Smart

Phan Xich Long Madeleine Adamson leaves the office to stretch her legs and stumbles upon some interesting spots on Phan Xich Long. Photos by Matt Lief Anderson.

Thuy Dung (plants) 5-6C5 Phan Xich Long This verdant venue houses an assortment of potted and hanging plants for the home, office or garden. Several specimens— such as phat tai—are renowned for bringing luck and success to their owners and are often given as gifts. Pretty purple phong

lan flowers, which are extremely famous in Vietnam, abound at Thuy Dung. Distinctive, slightly kitschy pots include giant shells and hollowed-out ceramic animals. So if you want to add some oxygen to your home or workplace, visit this lush shop from 6 am until 7 pm every day.

Duc Thuan (lighting) 107 Phan Xich Long Duc Thuan is a mecca for creative lighting options. Their attention-grabbing light fixtures vary in shape, size and colour with an assortment of bulbs to match. Some wall fixtures are made to look like melting ice cream cones, while others boast

a colourful mosaic-like backing. The store also puts forth a selection of street lanterns, fluorescent lights and minichandeliers complete with mesmerizing crystals. Duc Thuan’s eclectic offerings come from Vietnam, China and Thailand.

Opening hours are from 6 am until 8 pm. asialife HCMC 15

Nhan Danh (home appliances) 87A Phan Xich Long Hit up Nhan Danh if you are looking to tweak some things around the house or replace broken gadgets. The home appliance hub sells everything from toilet spray nozzles to garden trowels, paintbrushes to bungee cords, fans to faucets. Friendly staff are more than happy to explain where things are and how much they cost. The shop is open from 6:30 am until 6 pm every evening of the week.

Rabbit Laundry (dry cleaning) 55 Phan Xich Long This fresh-scented dry cleaning business takes care of both clothes and shoes. The approachable staff at the counter explain that the price is 12,000 16 asialife HCMC

VND per kilo for formal attire. For everyday outfits, dry cleaning costs 50,000 VND per kilo for women’s wear and 60,000 VND for men’s. Pay only 40,000 VND for shoes. No matter what service you wish to have done, your threads will be cleaned and ready for pick-up within 24 hours. The shop’s hours are 7 am until 9 pm every day.

Bun Cha Ca Qui Nhon (noodles) 1 Phan Xich Long The street corner eatery serves up a noodle dish originating from Qui Nhon, a coastal city in central Vietnam’s Binh Dinh Province. The tasty soup consists of fried fish, vermicelli noodles, vegetables and just a touch of chili. It’s no wonder

that this small restaurant is packed to the brim—apparently, the authentic noodle dish is difficult to find in Ho Chi Minh City. According to the friendly owner, the restaurant is open all day, Monday through Sunday.

Toc Ten (wigs) 331 Phan Xich Long Head to Toc Ten on a bad hair day—or if you have always wanted to know what you would look like with a short, spiky red ‘do. The wig warehouse carries every imaginable kind of synthetic hairpiece: long or short, straight or wavy, blonde or purple. Longhaired wigs cost 290,000 VND while shorter ones go for about 220,000 VND. Those seeking

a more natural look might opt for hair extensions made from real hair. Again, colours vary widely and the cost of extensions depends on hair length.

Toc Ten is open from 8 am until 8 pm.

Life’s Beauty (cosmetics) 315 Phan Xich Long Most expat women have made peace with the fact that the shampoo and mascara they used back home are nowhere to be found in Saigon. Here’s some great news: Life’s Beauty is chock-full of Western beauty products that are almost impossible to track down anywhere else in the city—Dior lipstick, MAC bronzer, Victoria’s Secret fragrance, Bath & Body Works shower gel, and nail polish in

every imaginable shade. You can check out Life’s Beauty every day from 9 am until 7 pm.

Bon Appetit (bakery) 49 Phan Xich Long Enter Bon Appetit and try to resist the urge to greet staff with an enthusiastic “Bonjour!” The bakery features an assortment of quintessentially French pastries, such as croissants and brioches.

More decadent desserts include tiramisu, cheesecake, black forest cake and macaroons. Mini cakes and tarts are available for about 11,000 VND, while macaroons go for 25,000 VND per 100 grams. Customers can have whole cakes custom made for special occasions, too. Bon Appetit is open from 6 am until 10 pm chaque jour. asialife HCMC 17

18 asialife HCMC

Danniel Amadio Third generation Australian-Italian vintner Danniel Amadio divulges his wine wisdom to Madeleine Adamson.

Photo by Nguyen An Vinh.

You come from a family of winemakers. Was producing wine something you wanted to do from a young age?

Yeah, it was. Growing up in an Italian¬ heritage family, food and wine was always a big thing around the family table—especially on a Sunday night. As a boy, I was often up at the vineyards on weekends, sitting on the tractor with Dad. I suppose I always said, ‘I want to be a winemaker like Dad’ but I never really thought about it. But, coming out of school there was the opportunity, the timing was right, and I was able to get good experience with some top Australian winemakers. So I thought ‘why not?’.

What makes the Adelaide Hills an ideal region for producing sensational wines?

The Adelaide Hills is a core climate region. It gives us great natural acidity in our white wines. For red wine making, the natural acidity is also fantastic, as are the good PH levels. Our site is on the northern side of the Adelaide Hills, close to the Barossa Valley. For red wine, that site is absolutely amazing because we get cool evenings and humid days.

Do you tailor make your wines to suit specific markets?

The first country I started exporting to was the US. I was put into contact with a guy in America who was looking for some good Australian wine.

He fell in love with the style of pinot I was making. It was a bit jammier, a bit fruitier than typical, dry pinot. It just flew in the US, along with Shiraz, cabernet and other varieties.

From then on I began researching the export markets that I wanted to get into.

And by participating in trade shows and expos, I could introduce more people to my wines, which were softer in style, more balanced, more fruit-driven. Both younger and older generations were enjoying them.

Now we’ve opened up in 14 different countries. We have three cellar doors in China and we’re now available in Korea, Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Indonesia.

Overall, our wine is very much based on my Italian heritage. We do those pinot grigios, Sangioveses, Sagrantinos, Montepulcianos, which not many people in Australia produce.

Does it make you cringe when someone commits a faux pas in terms of wine etiquette?

Yes and no. Going out for dinner with friends, I’m always thrown the wine list. And I don’t mind that. But if I’m going to a friend’s house for dinner, I always say ‘look, don’t be threatened.’ I’m not going to judge people based on what kind of wine they’re serving.

In Australia we make reference to the ‘wine wanks.’

They’re wine connoisseurs who are always doing something with the glass and are giving criticism in ways that people just don’t understand. That I don’t like.

In setting up your own wine label, Amadio Wines, you began to focus on the export market.

You have been lauded for your environmentally friendly approach to winemaking.

If you had to pick just one, what wine are you particularly proud of?

How do you stay green?

We ensure that we do everything as clean as possible, starting in the vineyards. We call ourselves biodynamic. We’re not fully organic and I don’t believe we could ever be fully organic.

However, we do control our spray and water flow programs vigilantly. We only use natural water and we try to make sure that the least amount of chemicals or preservatives are used.

And that’s very dependent on our vintage year. Mother Nature controls a lot in our industry.

I’d have to say our newest wine, the Misura. I was lucky to get really good fruit from one part of our vineyard. I picked the best barrels on the market and had some very good assistant makers. It was a two and a half year process of nurturing that wine. There were about 500 barrels and, every three or four months, we had to keep taking out barrels that had gotten too oxidized or didn’t smell right.

So, from a working perspective, that’s the wine I’m the most proud of.

In saying that, Sagrantino is probably my personal favourite at the moment. It’s unbelievably rich and easy to drink.

Do you have children and can you see them continuing the wine legacy?

Yes, I have two boys whose names actually come from our reserve range. Sebastian, my first child, is named after a cabernet sauvignon and Christian, my second, after a chardonnay. The oldest doesn’t really understand wine that much but he’s been known to say ‘Daddy, is that my label?’ so I’m hoping, when the time comes, they’ll understand what I do. Because, at the end of the day, I do it for them. asialife HCMC 19

PHOTO ESSAY:

Saigon is a low-rise city, so it is easy to become accustomed to seeing the city from this limited outlook. However, with the arrival of the towering Bitexco building and its 49th floor viewing platform, that has all changed. AsiaLIFE's Photo Editor Fred Wissink took the opportunity to capture images of downtown Saigon from this unique perspective.

20 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 21

22 asialife HCMC

24 asialife HCMC

You could be the safest driver in the world, but that doesn't mean someone else will not do the wrong thing. In a split second everything can change, with the most terrible of consequences. Thousands of people are killed and seriously injured on the roads in Vietnam each year. Brett Davis and Chris Mueller talk to some of those who have endured the pain and loss caused by traffic accidents, and look at how you can avoid becoming another statistic.

Photos by Fred Wissink. asialife HCMC 25

When Lisa Hamilton received a phone call from Vietnam informing her that her son, Ryan Gallaher, had been involved in a motorbike accident, she says her first reaction was that he had broken a leg or had some other minor injury. But after her son’s friend explained the seriousness of the accident, she was in shock.

Gallaher, 35, sustained severe head injuries when he crashed his motorbike while not wearing a helmet. He had been out drinking alcohol in the southern coastal city of Vung Tau, where he had been teaching English.

Over the next five days, Hamilton struggled to get to Vietnam. She had to apply for a visa and a passport, which she did not have at the time since she had only been out of her native Canada once, before she could get on a plane. She arrived in HCM City on June 9 2010, five days after her son’s accident.

“I guess I must have been naive,” she says. “I thought all I had to do was get to my son and everything would be taken care of, we would come back home and everything would be fine.”

As it turned out, getting her visa and passport then travelling half way across the world was only the beginning. When she arrived in HCM City her son, who was in a coma, had been transported from the dirty, poorly supplied Ba Ria Hospital just outside of Vung Tau to District 5’s perpetually busy Cho Ray Hospital. She found him in the head trauma

unit, a large cluttered room with around 40 beds, usually full of patients, from young children to adults. She says she found the conditions horrifying and wanted to get her son out before he became infected.

A team from Family Medical Practice in HCM City helped Hamilton make flight arrangements to Bangkok, where there were better facilities at Samitvej Hospital, and cut red tape that would allow them to get on a plane with medical equipment.

A flight was arranged five days after Hamilton’s arrival. At that point she says she had already spent US$1,800 for the ambulance from Ba Ria to HCM City, US$500 at Cho Ray and US$15,000 for the flight to Bangkok.

Gallaher’s friends covered the Ba Ria Hospital bills. Her son did not have any medical insurance.

“To me the money should have never been an issue,” Hamilton says. “The issue was having to have it all upfront, having to make all the arrangements myself and getting no assistance from the Canadian government.

I would have sold my soul to get my son home.”

The next 17 days in Bangkok were a roller coaster, she says. The doctors said Gallaher’s prognosis was good. They seemed to think his brain damage wasn’t permanent, but he soon developed a chest infection.

“We had to take it not one day at a time but hour by hour.”

When it came time to fly Gallaher back to Canada, initial estimates from an air ambulance company were around US$160,000 and it needed to be paid in full and upfront.

Hamilton says there was no way she could have afforded that on her US$24,000 a year salary she earns as a billing clerk at a trucking company in Canada. She was forced to wait for a cheaper option. Twenty-one days after arriving in Bangkok, they were able to get an Air France flight to Paris and then to London, Ontario for US$66,000.

Hamilton arrived with her son in Canada 23 days after she had left. Including the US$40,000 bill at Samitvej Hospital, Gallaher’s family spent about US$130,000 to get him home.

To pay the bills Gallaher’s father had to take out a mortgage on his house, Hamilton used all of her savings and maxed out her credit cards. They also received some help through donations and fund raising events.

Nearly two months after his accident, Gallaher was moved to a hospital closer to home in Listowel, Ontario where he died several days later from sepsis and pneumonia, which doctors say he had likely contracted in Ba Ria or Cho Ray. Dr Claudio Duek, an orthopedic surgeon at Family Medical Practice, says expats die every week in Vietnam from head trauma and body trauma that has left internal organs severely damaged.

She found him in the

head trauma unit, a large cluttered room with around 40 beds, usually

full of patients, from young children to adults.

26 asialife HCMC

He personally treats about three patients a day that have been involved in road accidents.

The injuries range from fractured wrists to traumatic amputations. He says most of the accidents involve drinking and driving.

As most expats quickly find out when they begin their lives in Vietnam, the same traffic laws they obey in their home countries no longer seem to apply. When driving in Vietnam there are seemingly no rules, something Duek says leads to carelessness among expats.

He says even after only four beers, which he admits is not a lot, a driver’s reaction time is significantly slowed down, which can be extremely detrimental in a country where traffic is so unpredictable.

Dale Keys, an English teacher in HCM City, had been driving in District 5 around 10am one morning when another driver on his right made a sudden left hand turn, cutting him off. Keys hit the bike, catapulting him over his handlebars.

He says he landed on his head, but was wearing a helmet, which prevented more serious injuries. He stood up in a daze as a local helped move his bike to the side of the road.

The other driver wasn’t injured and drove away.

After a few minutes of rest he got back on his bike and sat there with blood trickling down his face while talking to his flat mate on the phone when someone tried to steal it out of his hand. His flat mate suggested he leave right away.

HAN'S STORY On a Sunday morning in 2008, Nguyen Thi Xuan Diem and her husband Le Xuan Hung readied their two daughters, Han, aged eight, and seven-year-old Nhu for the short trip to visit the girls’ grandmother.

The girls’ hair had been done prettily for the occasion, so their parents did not want to mess it with a helmet. Besides, they were not going far from their Binh Tan home in HCM City’s northwest.

Soon after leaving home, a drunk driver ran a red light and collided with the family. Mother, father and youngest daughter all suffered serious injuries. Han never regained consciousness and died the next day in Cho Ray hospital.

Her father Hung is still suffering the effects of the broken hip and collapsed lung that required surgery after the crash. Han’s mother Diem was forced to give up work to care for her husband and surviving daughter. She has also taken on a role with the Asian Injury Prevention Foundation, giving lectures to share her tragic tale and reinforce the importance of children wearing helmets.

“Thousands of families are devastated by the irreplaceable loss of a child, or crippled by a reduced income because they suddenly need to care for a permanently brain damaged child,” Diem says.

“So, I have given some lectures on behalf of the Asian Injury Prevention Foundation to share my experience to people. I want all people to know the importance of wearing a helmet clearly, especially wearing the helmet for children.”

“Don’t put your most precious possession at risk,” Diem says is the message she is trying to communicate.

One of the main preconceptions she tries to fight against is the belief many parents hold that simply wearing a helmet can be injurious to a child. This danger of this idea is also compounded, she says, by parents thinking their children will be safe because they drive carefully.

Han’s fate and the suffering of her family is illustration enough that the question of arriving safely at your destination or not is often out of your control. Just because you do the right thing does not mean everyone else will.

Diem’s courage in travelling the country to share her story has to be admired. Her mission has given her both a sense of purpose and some comfort amid the pain.

“I want my daughter’s death to have some meaning. I hope my daughter’s heart will be warmed by her mother's job. I have had the chance to visit many cities to share my sad story and promote the importance of wearing helmets. So, I feel happier and try my best in my life.”

asialife HCMC 27

As most

expats

quickly

find out

when they begin their lives in Vietnam,

the same

traffic laws they obey

in their home countries

no longer seem to apply.

28 asialife HCMC

Keys headed to the Columbia Saigon Clinic in District 1, where doctors x-rayed his head and foot and gave him tetanus shots. Luckily he only had a minor concussion and some scrapes and bruises on his face and legs.

Although he had medical insurance through his school, Keys says he doesn’t have a Vietnamese driving license so the provider wouldn’t cover the medical costs. His bills came to around US$200.

Many international medical insurance companies can be found in Vietnam. Chartis, part of AIG, and Liberty Mutual are two popular choices. Depending on the coverage you want and how old you are, plans for Chartis range from US$190 to US$10,000 a year.

For basic coverage, a 30-year-old would pay about US$800 a year.

This would cover room and board at a hospital up to US$300 a day and full coverage for intensive care costs and medical scans. It also covers up to US$20,000 a year for surgical costs. Worldwide emergency evacuation and repatriation as well as local ambulances and emergency room treatment is fully covered.

As with most insurance companies, if you don’t have a valid Vietnamese driving license then the company will not cover you. It is also common in Vietnamese hospitals for a patient to have to pay for emergency services upfront then wait for reimbursement from the insurance company later on, says Nguyen Hong

Ngoc, an account executive with Chartis Vietnam’s Accident and Health Division.

Greig Craft started the Asian Injury Prevention Foundation in 1999. He says he was horrified by the number of motorcycle deaths he was seeing in Vietnam and wanted to try to reduce those numbers. He likens fatalities and serious injuries on the roads here to a war.

With the number of casualties each year it is easy to see why: Vietnam's National Traffic Safety Committee reported that in 2010 there were 11,060 road fatalities, around 30 each and every day.

The foundation runs numerous programmes supplying helmets to children and conducting road safety public awareness and education campaigns. Craft also developed the Protec helmets, specially designed for tropical climates and now manufactured in a not-for-profit operation here in Vietnam.

He believes better road safety needs to be built on the five pillars of enforcement, education, public awareness campaigns, government policy and direct intervention such as supplying helmets to children.

“Yes, enforcement is important, but we also need a culture of safety here,” he says.

Craft also admits to feeling “enraged” when he see expatriates behaving irresponsibly on the roads of Vietnam.

Why is it then that many people who would never think of doing things like drink driving

or running a red light in their home country engage in this kind of thing when they come to Vietnam?

Simple human behaviour and how we respond to the potential negative consequences of our actions has much to do with it, according to HCM City-based behavioural analyst Nicole Marchetto.

“Almost all of our behaviour is controlled by what we call aversive contingencies,” she says. “Why don’t we go out and drink all night? Because we will have a headache in the morning. Why don’t we speed? Because we might get a speeding ticket.”

Marchetto says the perceived reduced likelihood of, say, getting that speeding ticket here means people do things they would not dream of back in the United States, for instance. This fairly quick transition in conduct on the road is because negative consequences, in either their application or removal, have a more rapid effect on behaviour change than positive reinforcement.

On the flipside, watching some of the driving habits of locals can erode an otherwise conscientious attitude. Marchetto calls this 'vicarious reinforcement'. For example, instead of circling the block to get to your destination it is quicker and easier to go the wrong way up a one-way street. “If the behaviour is reinforced it will maintain, if there are no contingencies in place to stop them,” she says.

CAMPAIGNING FOR SAFER ROADS Changing attitudes towards road safety in Vietnam may seem a near impossible task. For more than a decade the Asian Injury Prevention foundation has been doing just that. Their latest campaign is aiming to encourage parents to ensure their children wear helmets when they are passengers on a motorcycle.

The multi-pronged campaign will involve television and outdoor advertising, information and education activities, encouraging authorities to increase surveillance in targeted areas and supplying helmets to students at selected schools.

Founder and President of the AIP Foundation Greig Craft says the organisation has always had a focus on child safety. “It is really the parents we are trying to get to,” says Craft of the new campaign.

One of the most challenging aspects to overcome, he says, is the widely held belief that wearing a helmet can cause harm to a child.

“It became an urban legend, and the drop in children wearing helmets was staggering.”

The foundation has worked hard to reverse this trend, bringing overseas experts and holding workshops to counter these perceptions. It is also why in 2009 they launched, in cooperation with several partner organisations, the Global Helmet Vaccine Initiative.

“Vietnam has one of the highest vaccination rates in the

world. We have to get the message across that helmets are the same thing: a kind of medication,” Craft says.

While the AIP foundation is focused on changing Vietnamese attitudes towards road safety, there is also a worrying trend in temporary residents adopting a more lax approach on the roads.

To this end, AsiaLIFE will be launching a print and poster advertising campaign in selected areas to encourage expatriates to ensure their children are adequately protected when they are being driven around town on motorcycles.

Director of 365days communications (the company behind AsiaLIFE) Jonny Edbrooke, says he was moved to create the campaign after seeing many expats and their children not wearing helmets around his neighbourhood in An Phu. “I think there is belief some people have that if it is only a short trip to school or the shops in a relatively quiet area like An Phu or Phu My Hung, then there is not much to worry about,” he says.

“We have all had decades of road safety education in our own countries, and we should be well aware that anything can happen at any time. It is just not worth the risk.”

AsiaLIFE is looking to recruit schools and other businesses and organisations in these areas to come on board and support the campaign, which is due to begin before Christmas. For more information contact jonny@threesixfive-days.com.

asialife HCMC 29

Russian

Paradise

F

rom the outside, the compound doesn’t seem much different from the blocks of nearby apartment buildings that surround it. The closed front gate looks like a typical Vietnamese company after business hours, but this one is almost always shut.

A Russian flag is posted next to a Vietnamese one on top of a guardhouse where there is usually at least one Russian woman sitting watch. To enter the compound, you need to be Russian, or at least have business with the Russians who live there.

The Russians call it Microraion and the Vietnamese Nam Tang [five stories], but most English speaking foreigners know it as 30 asialife HCMC

the Russian Village. Situated in the middle of the southern beach resort town of Vung Tau, entering feels like walking into a utopian film taking place in the 1950s.

Children in matching bright orange school uniforms cycle the short distance along the wide, breezy tree-and-flower-lined streets from school back home for lunch, as grave looking men return from work for their afternoon break. Anyone who isn’t Russian is clearly a foreigner here.

Vietsovpetro, a Vietnamese and Russian government joint oil venture, built the compound for its Russians employees and their families in 1984. The first apartment blocks were built so the

Chris Mueller checks out the odd, secluded life in a private Russian housing compound in Vung Tau.

influx of Russian oil specialists wouldn’t have to live in hotels, Yury Sokolov, the manager of Vietsovpetro’s living and housing department, says through Evgenia Marchenko, one of the companies seven translators.

Five-storey apartment blocks make up the majority of the buildings inside. There is a large structure at the centre that has everything from a bar, café, restaurant and even a small store selling Russian food. All of the signs are in Russian.

At its peak during the Soviet Union era about 3,000 Russians lived here, but today there are only about 1,200. Of that, 550 are specialists working for Vietsovpetro and the rest are family

members, Sokolov says.

The village is governed by a fairly strict set of rules, says Marchenko. Residents aren’t allowed to drive motorbikes on or off the compound, which explains why loads of Russians can be seen cycling around town after work. The doors to the village close at 11pm, and no one is allowed in until the next morning.

Unless you’re Russian or one of the Vietnamese employees who work on the compound, it is very difficult to get in. It took AsiaLIFE several weeks to get permission to enter the village. When asked why Vietsovpetro is so strict and secretive about a housing compound, Marchenko said, “Because

Photo by Fred Wissink

it’s the Soviet Union.”

Vietsovpetro rents the land from the Vietnamese government, but built everything inside, he says. Since the population of the compound has dwindled, the company sold some apartment blocks to the Vietnamese, separating them with tall green corrugated steel walls, giving it a worn-down atmosphere.

Evgeny, one oil worker who lives on the compound and asked his last name not be used, says though the rules can be annoying, especially for the younger workers, the compound is ideal for family life. Some of the smaller flats are free, but he says he only pays around $50 for his three bedroom place.

The company does not take any responsibility for employees who choose to live off the compound, so living inside gives the workers a sense of security.

Evgeny says he first arrived at the village at age 13 when his father started working for the oil company in 1993.

He returned to Russia when he was 18 to study at university after he had received the majority of his education in the village. He came back to Vung Tau in 2006 to work in offshore construction.

Now 31, he is married and has a four-and-a-half year old son who has spent the majority of his life in Vietnam.

“He was made in Vietnam,” Evgeny jokes.

It’s common for families to be born and raised in the compound, says Marchenko, but many of them never mix with the Vietnamese. Marchenko, who at 24, speaks fluent Vietnamese, Khmer, English and Russian and also has a master’s degree in Asian politics, is not a typical resident of the village. Most people living on the compound keep to their small community.

The village has a school with qualified teachers, which Marchenko says gives the children exactly the same education they would get in Russia. There is also a cultural department that organizes Russian dances on occasion. For entertainment, there is a basketball and tennis court

and a football field. But most importantly, Marchenko makes a point to mention, they have every Russian TV channel. There is also a man who runs Russian Orthodox Church services out of his home.

Evgeny says life on the compound can be quiet and sedentary, but he prefers it to raising a family in Russia where it can be less predictable. It has been reported recently that Vladamir Putin is expected to return to the presidency next March after a four-year stint as prime minister, which has many Russians worried their country will continue to be marred by corruption.

Maybe a seaside village life isn’t such a bad alternative. asialife HCMC 31

ABCs

Behind the

Learning Strategies is Vietnam’s first organisation to provide children experiencing behavioural, developmental or academic difficulties with specialised support. The group’s director Tony Louw explains their origins and aims to Madeleine Adamson.

L

ike many expats in HCM City, Tony Louw originally came to Vietnam for a short vacation and fell in love with the country. It was obvious to him that his background as an early intervention specialist could be put to excellent use here.

Louw, who grew up in South Africa and Europe, moved to Vietnam in 2008 to set up a learning support department at the Renaissance International School Saigon. His three years at RISS were successful, but he eventually realised that in order to help the greatest number of individuals, he had to set up a private organisation. He knew it would not be a straightforward feat, but that he had to try.

Louw is now the Programme Consultant and Managing Director of Learning Strategies, Vietnam’s first organisation to offer top quality behavioural support services to families and schools. Louw set up the privately funded Educational Support Services Asia (Learning Strategies’ former moniker) to provide children experiencing academic, behavioural or developmental difficulties with customised intervention programmes. His clients’ 32 asialife HCMC

conditions range from Autism spectrum disorders to minor reading difficulties.

Louw advocates the principles of Applied Behaviour Analysis (ABA), a teaching strategy that uses a child’s interests to accelerate their rate of learning. “ABA is a scientifically validated mode of intervention in which goals are broken down into achievable developmental steps,” says Louw.

Learning Strategies works with children of all ages and abilities in both home and school settings. Some clients have problems with functional communication development, independent play, speech articulation, socialising with peers or handling daily living skills. Others have trouble with academic performance, issues with motor skills, or behavioural concerns.

The youngest client Louw worked with was 20 months old and he has also helped high functioning teens. However, the majority are primary school kids. Although clients are a mix of Vietnamese and expats, Louw’s team only provides services to students who have a good grasp of English.

At the moment, Louw works with four internationally

recruited specialists trained in the field of Applied Behaviour Analysis. But he points out that the most important part of effectively implementing the teaching methodology comes from the personality of the practitioner. “The people who excel at this kind of work often possess a theatre background.

They have to be animated and good at thinking on their feet,” he explains. “Most importantly, they need to be fun. We all learn through motivation. Many of the children we deal with have had a long and often distressing history of failure in school and our job is to turn that around.”

Staff use assessment tools to develop a distinctive profile of each child’s skill levels. The emphasis is on functional skill development with mainstream integration being the eventual aim. “The goal is to get these children to the point that they no longer need us,” Louw adds.

Social skills programmes or special academic plans are developed for those who are struggling to make friends or are having difficulties with their school’s curriculum. For students experiencing substantial developmental delays, the focus is on improving baseline

functional skills within a child’s natural environment. Kids with severe Autism might receive 40 hours of intensive one-on-one instruction per week, while more advanced learners only need two or three.

Since the company is handson as opposed to clinic-based, Louw says being in Vietnam helps in many respects. In North America, strict educational policies often prevent therapists from going into classrooms with students. Here in Vietnam, there is more flexibility, which contributes to greater progress within the classroom.

Home training sessions for parents, teachers and household staff explain how to teach new skills within the context of daily routines—from interacting with peers to getting dressed. “Every member of a household plays an integral role in the success of a child,” says Louw. Routine training workshops for small groups are also held at venues such as Boomarang in District 7.

As rewarding as Louw’s work is, he describes how a family’s budget constraints can result in numerous challenges.

If a child needs 20 hours of treatment a week but his or her family can only afford five,

his team must creatively piece together a model of intervention that reflects the resources at hand.

“We are also developing software programs and data management systems that can be managed remotely to reduce time spent directly with families, and thus the money they have to spend,” Louw says.

Digitizing resources will help by tracking a child’s progress milestone by milestone. “While some families only require a mild level of service, others require a long term investment to meet their child’s needs,” explains Louw. “While we have a strong track record here in Vietnam, every child comes to us with an individual learning potential. Our goal is to ensure that each of our clients is meeting that potential. We constantly evaluate each child’s progress through parent and teacher consultations and careful analysis of the data records that we maintain around each case.

Over time, we can reach a point where we are able to make informed judgments about how far we can reasonably expect a child to progress. We have to ensure at every step of the way that a family’s investment in

terms of their time and finances is justifiable in terms of the projected long term outcome for the child.”

Learning Strategies’ longterm aim is to filter program models into the Vietnamese community. Louw has already conducted numerous Vietnamese language workshops with the help of translators. The team is also working with local charities to start bringing comprehensible assessment tools to underprivileged special needs schools in Saigon. “We need to come up with an effective working model [given the resources available] and then break down the model into digestible chunks that we can disseminate over to the Vietnamese. We also need to provide support to the management structures in various schools.”

The organisation’s name change, along with their new logo and website, is part and parcel of Learning Strategies’ desire to fine-tune their identity.

The group was also keen to take the word ‘education’ out of their name. Louw explains, “We are not a school, we are not providing the teaching. We are providing the strategies behind the teaching.”

A TIGER BY THE TAIL Brett Davis sits down at the ivories with a journeyman piano player to talk about jazz and the hard road of a life in music.

Photo by Fred Wissink.

34 asialife HCMC

asialife HCMC 35

Into the Mountains Riding in a convoy of vintage motorcycles across the country from Hoi An to the mountainous region near the Laos border, Brett Davis goes on a strange and exhilarating journey.

The sound is immense. Like iron horsemen of the apocalypse, eight vintage Russian motorcycles, complete with sidecars, thunder along mountain roads in Quang Nam province near the Laos border. As we approach our destination for the day’s riding, a small village high in the mountains of central Vietnam, wide-eyed children run from small timber houses to stare at these strange interlopers, their wary parents a few steps behind.

Traversing the last stretch of rutted track, we finally enter Aroh village, home to some of the Co Tu ethnic minority people. The bikes are parked at one end of the village, soon swarmed upon by curious locals.

The journey had started many hours earlier in the beachside town of Hoi An. The General Manager of Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort and Spa, Claude 36 asialife HCMC

Balland, is a vintage motorcycle enthusiast and the driving force behind the unique tours utilising the Russian-made 650cc Ural motorcycles. He purchased his first of these bikes off the local police in 1996, and the resort now boasts 10 of the machines.

Victoria offers guests a range of day tours around Hoi An,

back in the sidecar and enjoy the spectacular scenery flashing by. Being seated so close to the ground makes for an exhilarating ride, particularly on the twisting mountain roads.

Intermittent showers sweep through the mountains and we are forced to stop and don our rain gear a number of times.

"I sleep fitfully, aware there will be blood spilled in the morning." as well as longer trips into the mountains and further north to Hue. They have even done trips across the border into Laos. Balland tells me the trips can really be tailored to whatever the guest desires, although on longer trips a minimum of two bikes making the journey is required.

With an experienced rider taking the controls, you can sit

However, the sun is shining as we pull off the road in front of a dilapidated, abandoned shack to break for lunch. The Gallic presence in the management is reflected in our meal with quiche, baguettes and what seems like a dozen wheels of cheese produced from the support van along with some cold drinks and even a bottle of wine. All in all a

very civilised lunch, giving me time to have a closer look at our transportation.

The Ural story begins shortly before the Second World War when the Russians were looking to upgrade their military hardware. The official version goes that several BMW R71 motorcycles used by the German army were purchased by intermediaries in neutral Sweden and smuggled back to the USSR. There they were completely pulled apart and reverse-engineered with a factory built to produce exact copies. After the outbreak of hostilities, the original factory in Moscow was moved further away from the front lines to a small town in the Ural Mountains, and it is from here that the bikes take their name.

Back at Aroh village, our visit coincides with the annual harvest festival. Celebrations

are getting into full swing as the sun dips behind the surrounding peaks. At the centre of the village is a large clear area surrounded by the small timber houses of the inhabitants and the large communal longhouse perched on two-metre-tall stilts with a steep thatched roof.

In the clearing the Co Tu men dance in a rhythmic shuffle around a kind of totem pole while banging on drums and gongs. In an outer circle the women, also dressed in traditional robes, perform a dance called the ya ya, their hands held high, turning this way and that as they slowly circumscribe their way around the dusty arena.

The Co Tu are renowned for the intricate weaving and beadwork of their traditional costumes, with each taking up to six months to complete. I am also told by one of my travelling companions that they are somewhat more infamously known as one of the last headhunting tribes in Southeast Asia, with their last ‘blood hunt’ taking place in the early 1950s.

After a dinner served on banana leaves in the longhouse, I settle in at one end of the room on the thin mats covering the floor to share some of the local rice whiskey with the village elders. We toast each other with something like the word ‘Om’, which I take to be Co Tu for ‘cheers’, knocking back endless rounds out of small bamboo cups.

Communication is limited but with goodwill and whiskey I manage to ascertain my drinking companions are in their late 70s and early 80s. A quick, hazy calculation leaves me thinking these smiling, polite gentlemen would have been youths during the tribe’s final headhunting days. I think it best to not ask too many questions.

The rain falls softly outside as I settle down on the floor of the longhouse for the night, and the blanket some kind soul throws over me and the mountain liquor keep me warm and help drown out the drumming that continues through the night. I sleep fitfully,

aware there will be blood spilled in the morning.

The village comes to life slowly in the pre-dawn light.

Yet not long after the sun crests the horizon, the drummers and dancers are back in action, circling around the three-metre central pole to which a large buffalo has been tethered. This is the sacrifice to ensure a good harvest and the village’s future prosperity.

The drums and the dancers quicken tempo until the young men of the tribe enter the arena, a number of them carrying long pikes, several times their height and tipped with beaten metal spear heads. Some final incantations are delivered and the crowd moves back. The rope leading from the pole to a ring in the nose of the animal is let out to several metres in length. The buffalo’s large dark eyes may betray an inkling of what is to come, but more likely reflect my own trepidation.

When it does come, it’s quick and frenzied. Four men stand in the circle, and after the first lunges forward to strike with his spear, the snorting hulk of the buffalo careens around the circle tripping up in the rope. Each time it passes one of the men, another strike. In what is probably less than a minute but seems much longer, the deathblow hits home, bright red blood bubbles from the beast’s lungs and it goes down in the mud. The crowd rushes in.

Soon after, the last rites and rituals are completed, and the buffalo is butchered where it lies for the feast to come. An age-old ritual has been played out before us. It is difficult to know how to feel, only that I am certain it is not for me to pass judgment on.

Now it’s time to depart.

Engines roar into life and our gracious and welcoming hosts bid us farewell. Swooping back down the mountains, verdant countryside gives way to the coastal plain. I reflect on what has been an extraordinary couple of days, but am also eager to return to the creature comforts that await us back in Hoi An.

Photos by Brett Davis

asialife HCMC 37

On the trail to

Everest base camp Leonora Stevens ventures into the Himalayas to experience one of the world’s most famous treks.

Awash with brilliant colours, endless smog and roads flooded with people, goats, cars, rickshaws and trucks scraping through the dustcovered streets, Kathmandu is a jolt to the senses.

Despite the madness of it all, there's something captivating about life in this city that seems almost the epitome of a study in contrasts—a richly historical cultural epicentre complete with extreme poverty, rampant tourism and magical narrow streets and alleys.

But for most visitors to Nepal, Kathmandu isn’t the destination but rather a starting point on a pilgrimage to one of the country’s majestic mountain ranges. For my boyfriend and me, it’s much the same. Despite our minimal training, we’re attempting the trek to Everest Base Camp, a 16-day long journey that requires strong legs, powerful lungs and a stubborn determination in the face of endless uphill climbs.

Our journey begins early.

Up at 5am, we check out of our Kathmandu guesthouse and meet our guide, Lal. The sun has barely risen and the city is already 38 asialife HCMC

bustling. Men huddle on street corners downing milk teas, while cows and honking cars swarm the people-clogged streets.

We all jump in a waiting taxi, arriving at Kathmandu’s domestic airport only 15 minutes later. With one large backpack and a small daypack shared between the two of us, we feel substantially less laden with luggage than usual. Still, the bag is undoubtedly heavy and we’re already feeling relieved that we’ve decided to hire a porter (at US$10 per day) who will be carting it up through the hills.

The 30-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is as wild as anticipated. On the runway we’re handed cotton balls to drown out the roar of the rattling turbo-prop plane, and then we’re quickly in the air, gliding first over the city, then the towering peaks of the Himalayas.

Landing feels almost like being deposited on an impossibly perched shelf, and the pilot carefully steers us down towards the postage-stamp sized runway, immediately slamming on the brakes as we hit the ground.

Guides, porters and clients all audibly breathe sighs of relief as we feel ourselves come to a fast halt.

The air in Lukla at 2,859 metres is crisp. We quickly grab our bags as they’re pushed off the plane, and are ushered by Lal into a nearby warm teahouse for a fast breakfast of compulsory Nepali tea, toast and fried eggs. Thirty minutes later, we’re on the trail and on the way to our first night’s stop in Phakding.

Moving slowly to allow our bodies time to adjust to the altitude, our first days on the trail are gorgeous, rambling ascents through Sherpa villages and gardens. Each night we stay in local teahouses, which at US$2 per night are an incredible bargain, providing a very decent night’s sleep and hearty meals.

Only days in, and there is already some of the most incredible scenery I’ve ever experienced.

Endless hills, rich green fields, rickety bridges, countless stone homes and imposing white capped peaks dominate the horizon.

Aside from trekkers, the trail is filled with a constant train

of cows, yaks and porters slowly snaking their way up the mountainside. There is no road through the Everest region, so everything must be carried on someone's (or something’s) back.

As we arrive in Namche Bazaar on Day 3, our bodies are definitely beginning to feel fatigued. A beautiful mass of colourful lodges and prayer flags that almost resembles a Swiss ski village, Namche is situated on a steep hill and our final steps out of the forest and into the rarefied air of 3,450 meters are achingly slow.

By now, the increasing altitude is resulting in sleepless nights and weary lungs, but the Himalayas more than make up for it. Unobstructed views of Everest and Ama Dablam shine out at us from early morning until dusk and with every day it seems they come tantalisingly closer.

To aid our climbs, we fuel up every chance we get. We feast on an array of carbohydrates from French fries with fried eggs to pan pizzas and

platefuls of rice with lentils. It is a welcome break after several hours on the trail, and there are few things better than arriving in our teahouse each night to a waiting thermos of hot tea.

By the time we reach Lobuche at 4,910 meters on Day 11 we’re both feeling the altitude more than ever. While the day’s trek there only takes three hours, it feels like twelve. My lungs ache, my legs feel weak, and I burn with envy each time we pass a hapless trekker effortlessly skipping his or her way back down the mountain, the hardest part already behind them.

Nonetheless, it’s impossible to overstate the powerful feeling of knowing that we’ve made it to this point—a day’s hike away from Base Camp, which sits at 5,334 metres. This is the highest I’ve ever been in my life, and we’ve watched lush forests turn to icy tundra. Huddled around the yak dung fire looking out through ice-coated windows at a resplendent array of Himalayan peaks I feel overcome by just how special it is to be here.

That night I suffer a vicious

bout of food poisoning that forces us to turn back the following morning, only hours short of Base Camp. Stumbling back down the mountain, weakened and green around the gills, I can’t help but feel a little disappointed.

Several days and much reflection later, my regret begins to lessen, gradually transforming into a certain amount of pride.

As a completely inexperienced mountaineer and oftenreluctant athlete, I can’t say I ever dreamed myself the type of person capable of a trek I’d previously only read about.

Finally arriving back in Lukla on Day 16, my mind is a complete whirl of emotions. I’m utterly exhausted and have been stretched and challenged more by the past days than all our previous months of travel combined. My knees feel like they’re about to implode as we settle into our very last teahouse, and images of scorching hot showers dance through my head.

Kathmandu is calling, but these mountains won’t be soon forgotten. asialife HCMC 39

Margaritaville I was sitting at my usual perch in my personal Margaritaville (The Elbow Room, 52 Pasteur, District 1) talking to Olive (night manager) and watching the barman make me a Margarita. There is grace and style and something wonderful to watch in the skills of an accomplished mixologist. The mixmaster of The Elbow Room knows exactly how to pour the measure, salt the rim, and shake that thing with all the aplomb of a circus master. He pours it into a tall and elegant cocktail glass and sets it before me. It is a thing of beauty, worthy of a still-life painting.

It's quite tart, owing to the fresh lime he uses. It's redolent of tequila, but not too much so. A splash of Grand Marnier gives up hints of orange. The salt on the rim provides perfect balance. Where did this splendid drink come from?

The certain origin of the Margarita is lost and unrecoverable to humanity. And surely it is one of those blessings to human kind that, like the wheel, has seen multiple geneses. One thing we can be sure of, though: its antecedent is the Mexican way of taking tequila.

The cantinero pours the thirsty campesino a generous shot of tequila, then serves up a wedge or two of fresh lime and a shaker of salt. Observing ritual, the patron of the bar licks his left wrist to moisten it, then sprinkles it with salt.

Then he takes a sip (or knocks back the whole thing) of the tequila, licks up the salt and takes a bite of lime. Or he may take lime and salt first then wash it down with tequila.

Either way is a short trip to a quick buzz.

Where and when somebody graced a hurricane glass with salt at the rim, then mixed the tequila and lime with ice, and threw in an inspired dash of orange liqueur is anyone’s guess.

Four good guesses are yours 40 asialife HCMC

to choose from. I call them the Star, the Customer, the Girlfriend, and the Silent Siren: Rita Hayworth, the 1940s film star, used to be a regular patron at a Hollywood bar run

by Enrique Bastante Gutierez.

According to Senor Gutierez, he mixed the drink especially for Miss Hayworth, she liked it and ordered it often. As an homage to the star he named it for her. Her proper name was Margarita.

Some people credit Francisco "Pancho" Morales, head bartender at Tommy's Bar in Cuidad Juarez, Mexico with the modern Margarita. He relates that a lady entered the premises and asked for a drink called a

drink only tequila, so barman Danny Herrera concocted many a potion for the celluloid diva.

Her favourite was said to be the one with lime and orange, which Danny named for her.

Margarita is the Spanish for Marjorie.

Take your choice of creation myths, or make up your own.

No one could authoritatively call you a liar. It will never be known when or where or who begat this luscious drink. But we can all agree that this drink is tequila, lime or lemon juice, and orange liqueur stirred or shaken together and poured into a glass, its rim encrusted with coarse grain salt. It is refreshing, appetising, stimulat-

Where and when somebody graced a hurricane glass with salt at the rim, then mixed the tequila and lime with ice, and threw in an inspired dash of orange liqueur is anyone’s guess.

Magnolia. He had heard of the drink, but knew only that it contained Cointreau (an orange liqueur). So he winged it and put together the first Margarita.

At the Crespo hotel in Puebla, Mexico, manager Danny Negrete had a girlfriend who was fond of salt. She salted her food, she salted her beer. When she took tequila she liberally salted her left wrist.

Danny invented a salty drink for her using tequila, lime and triple sec. And the girlfriend’s name? Well...

During the years of American prohibition (when alcohol was outlawed), Tijuana, Mexico was southern California’s playground. On weekends half of Hollywood could be found there. Silent screen siren Marjorie King was no exception, and was a habitue of the bar at Rancho La Gloria. It was said that she loved her drink, but could

ing, and I hope it will help to prevent heat exhaustion and scurvy.

It's unfortunate that there are, as yet, few places in our city to find a decent Margarita.

But I can tell you of a few: the aforementioned Elbow Room with its elegant and sophisticated version. Then there is Mogambo, which is next door at 50 Pasteur, serving a doublesized, sweeter drink in a festive coloured cocktail boat. The mixed drink is poured over a little mountain of crushed ice.

It goes great with their nachos!

And Black Cat (13 Phan Van Dat) offers a drink in between the tart Elbow Room and the sweeter Mogambo versions. It's a more work-a-day, salt-of-theEarth sort of drop. But take them all as you may, to my mind, these are the best Margaritas in town. Salud!

Richard Sterling

My Place My Place is aptly named. Located near the bustling intersection of Dien Bien Phu and Hai Ba Trung, this gastro bar is a haven for gastronomes.

Enter the place by walking over a glass platform sitting above a fish-filled pond. Once inside the building, choose to sit in the first floor seating area— complete with a bar—or in one of the private rooms on the second floor. The intimate rooms are furnished with sumptuous sofas and chairs, soft lighting and earthy colours. Patrons can also dine in a private outdoor garden filled with greenery.

My Place’s General Manager, Glenn Vandevoorde, wanted to break away from the dime-a-

An intimate venue nestled in a quiet District 3 alley serves Belgian inspired cuisine. Photos by Fred Wissink.

dozen Western options—burgers, pizza and sandwiches— served in Saigon. His idea was to make homey, unique and extremely high quality cuisine.

We start out with the Just Natural clam dish (180,000 VND). Clams are steamed as the Belgians steam their mussels, served with frites or bread in a delicious, garlicky broth.

Vandevoorde points out that the clams found in Vietnam are of superior quality to mussels—at a fraction of the price.

Next, we try the Chef’s Salad with chicken (125,000 VND)—a mélange of finely sliced carrots, cucumber and other crunchy veggies topped with tender chicken slices and drizzled with

a homemade dressing.

Our final dish is the Stoofvlees (180,000 VND), a Flemish beef stew marinated in dark ale served with authentic Belgian frites and homemade mayonnaise. Beef lovers might also opt for the Goulash, Boeuf Bourgignon or Vietnamese Bo Kho, all made with prime US beef.

My Place serves up numerous fish dishes and some appealing vegetarian options, too. The eatery also boasts an extensive wine and cocktail list, plus cognac, whiskey and Armagnac.

We are too stuffed for dessert, but we hear the Espresso Panna Cotta (90,000 VND) is pretty sensational. Other sweet endings include an assortment of

ice creams and sorbets.

Stop by My Place for Wine Night on Wednesdays, cocktail specials on Fridays, or a Saturday night barbeque complete with babysitting services for kids. Twenty percent of the restaurant’s profits are donated to Trade to Aid, a HCM City-based charity.

My Place’s snug atmosphere and fantastic selection of soups, stews and spirits almost makes one wish for snow in Saigon.

Almost.

195 Dien Bien Phu, Ward 6, District 3.

Tel: 08 3829 8301 Open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 am until midnight. asialife HCMC 41

Salt and Pepper Salt and Pepper, which opened in February, is the first Italian restaurant in the up-andcoming Crescent area of Phu My Hung. Nestled into two floors next to the new Vasco’s, the inviting interior features a sleek, modern design, with an open kitchen at the back.

There is also outdoor seating available.

The menu was crafted by the Italian-American managing chef, and features many classic Italian dishes, including minestrone soup, various pasta dishes, seafood, and steak.

A revamped menu offering a few tweaked dishes as well as 42 asialife HCMC

Great Italian cuisine in Phu My Hung’s elegant Crescent.

Photos by Fred Wissink.

more carpaccio options will be unveiled soon.

Ingredients are important to any serious restaurant and Salt and Pepper uses some of the best: US beef, Italian wines and cheeses, hand-made pasta.

For an appetizer, we had salmon carpaccio (155,000 VND), served with capers and rocket salad. The salmon was excellent—sliced so thinly it almost melts in your mouth— and the portion was big enough to split between two people.

Next up was shrimp ravioli (175,000 VND), stuffed with succulent shrimp, and topped with pesto, a creamy tomato

sauce, and slices of mozzarella.

The sauce was simply fantastic, the shrimp fresh, and the cheese of very high quality.

Finally, for dessert, we had crème brulee (95,000 VND), which ended the meal on a high note. Served inside a glass, with raisins doused in chocolate coffee syrup on the side, the brulee was much thicker than those I’ve had before, and it tasted a bit like creamy marshmallows, which is a very good thing in my book.

All three dishes were wellpresented and delicious, not to mention filling. The food at

Salt and Pepper is a definite cut above the crowd, and the drink selections—wine and Italian cocktails—will tempt diners to linger over their meal.

Salt and Pepper is a fine option for lunch, but is probably best at night when the setting is more intimate. This restaurant is a welcome addition to Ho Chi Minh City’s dining scene, and it is well worth the trip out to District 7.

103 Ton Dat Tien, Crescent 1, District 7.

Tel: 08 5412 4848 Open Tuesday – Sunday, 11am10:30pm.

Lau Ca Keo Ba Huyen Located on the corner of Ba Huyen Thanh Quan and Ngo Thoi Nhiem in District 3, Lau Ca Keo Ba Huyen looks like an average Vietnamese eatery with its open-air seating area, stainless steel tables and small plastic stools. It’s usually very crowded, even on this cold rainy night, which is always a good sign for a Vietnamese restaurant.

Most locals only know the restaurant by its street number, 87, but it is well-known among

them for its signature dish, lau ca keo. This classic southern hotpot dish combines ca keo, a small 15-centimetre type of goby found in brackish waters, with a bitter, sweet broth.

Though it gets its name from the fish, the broth is the key to the soup. The sour la giang leaf is combined with rau dang, a bitter herb, both of which are commonly found in southern provinces. In typical hotpot fashion, a stainless steel pot heated by a candle is brought to the

A popular local Vietnamese restaurant serves up a traditional southern classic.

Photos by Mai Anh Nguyen. table with all the fixings on the side. The ca keo is added while still alive to ensure freshness and removed after a few minutes before an array of vegetables are put into the boiling broth.

Ca keo is an extremely pungent fish that is traditionally drenched in fish sauce and chilli before eating. The dark fish sauce here is particularly strong and salty, so those who don’t like fish might not be too fond of this dish. Like with most hotpots, the broth and vegetables

are put in a small bowl with rice noodles before adding the fish-sauce-drenched ca keo on top. For such a small, bony fish, the meat surprisingly peels off easily on both sides, leaving the bones behind.

The 110,000 VND small hotpot comes with about six fish and can easily feed two people. The large size costs 170,000 VND. 87 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 Tel: 08 3930 7687 Open daily from 9 am to 9 pm. asialife HCMC 43

An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay

Eco-responsibility, local accents and personalised villa amenities combine to provide an unforgettably luxurious experience. By Madeleine Adamson. Photos by Nguyen An Vinh.

44 asialife HCMC

T

hose enviable few who have sojourned at An Lam Villas Ninh Van Bay might struggle to find the words to do this stunning property justice. In every direction, a dramatic landscape or unexpected architectural feature tends to leave you speechless.

The South China Sea swishes gently in front of the five star property, steep hills and lush vegetation surround it from the rear. Immense granite boulders are scattered haphazardly throughout the landscape, reminding guests of both the beauty and unpredictability of the natural world. The seemingly far-flung venue, which opened in April 2011, is a 16 km journey by car—followed by a short boat trip—from Nha Trang City.

Epikurean, the private management team behind An Lam, believes in “providing the best experiences to customers whilst being socially and environmentally responsible.” In keeping with Epikurean’s philosophy, An Lam Ninh Van Bay combines eco-responsibility, traditional Vietnamese touches and, of course, unparalleled luxury. Villa amenities—from an iPod loaded with music of your choice to full butler service—have been designed to spoil vacationers to the max.

Some of An Lam’s 35 thatched roof villas are located at the resort’s beachfront, while others reside next to a quiet lagoon. An open plan in all lodgings produces an indooroutdoor ambience, while wood and rattan furniture creates a beachy feel. The colour scheme is elegant and understated with a few vibrant accents—a bright green pillow, for instance, pops against the white fabric of a living room settee. Unexpected decorative elements include an exotic outdoor rain shower and even a fabric swing, fastened to the bathroom ceiling with thick rope.

Rocks, being a central feature of the resort, also play a

pivotal role in each villa. Stone walls and floors keep things cool, even on the muggiest day.

Small white stones framing the fresh water plunge pool satisfyingly sizzle when water overflows.

The elevated Hill Rock Villas are perhaps the most secretive at An Lam. These treehouse-like dwellings, tucked at the base of a mountain, offer foliage-filtered ocean views and a spacious three-level layout. In the bathroom, a large window positioned next to the tub allows bathers to soak up a palliative view of soil, roots and undergrowth.

The property’s fitness centre, spa and library all uphold the same signature combination of dark wood, glass and stone that is witnessed in the villas.

An Lam’s dining room, overlooking the calm bay, features a vast deck dotted with simple wooden chairs and tables, plus comfy daybeds and pod-like rattan seats. A minimalist design gives the space a clean, modern appearance while taking nothing away from the gorgeous natural setting. At the end of the deck, an infinity pool begins, tempting guests to take a post-mealtime plunge.

About 50 metres from shore sits an ultra private floating dock complete with two reclining chairs.

The aptly named Rock Bar, adjacent to the restaurant, has been constructed in an enclave of immense boulders. Irene Gallego Sanabria, Epikurean’s management trainee, says that nothing was disturbed in the creation of the bar. “We did not want to remove the beautiful rocks and trees, so we built a deck around them,” says Sanabria. In fact, in a few places, a tree sprouts directly out of the deck. The plan is to soon start showing old movies at the Rock Bar. When asked where they will set up the screen, Sanabria points to a large, black rock. “We will project the movies directly onto the flat side of it,” she says with a smile. asialife HCMC 45

Connoisseur IT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

Lavender “With immediacy and intensity, smell activates the memory, allowing our minds to travel freely in time.” The quote from Tom Robbins’ 1984 novel Jitterbug Perfume rings true. Those who have visited the South of France in summertime know that a whiff of lavender can transport one’s mind back to the peaceful French countryside.

Lavender has long been esteemed for its various properties. The Romans used it to scent their baths and freshly washed linen, and it was mentioned in Dioscoride’s Materia Medica in the first century. While many people believe that all lavenders are created equal, the Lavandula family is actually composed of 39 different species, including several hybrids.

Fine lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) grows on the arid mountains of Provence above an altitude of 800 metres. From

46 asialife HCMC

time immemorial this ‘popular lavender’ or ‘English lavender’ has been coveted for its medicinal properties and delicate fragrance. For the distilling process, 130 kilograms of these small flowers are needed to obtain one litre of essential oil. In a bountiful year, a one-hectare plantation will produce 25 litres.

Spike lavender, which sprouts on scrubland, has a robust, camphorated odour and is often sent to Spain and Portugal to dilute both oil and porcelain paints.

Lavandine, a cross between fine and spike lavender, deceives many untrained nostrils.

First cultivated in the 1950s, it can grow outside France.

While the plant has a stronger scent than lavender, it possesses no medicinal properties and is often used in cleaning products and detergents. Just 40 kilograms of these flowers

are needed to obtain one litre of essential lavandine oil—a far greater yield than fine lavender.

Only pure lavender in the form of 100% essential oil can treat insomnia, irritability, headaches and stress. A few drops can disinfect and heal cuts and burns, eczema, bedsores, sunburn and insect bites. Lavender fights colds, sinusitis and sore throats. It relaxes pain from cramps and rheumatism and, amazingly, can treat head lice and intestinal parasites.

There are numerous ways to experience the fragrant flower’s essence. L’Occitane, a brand that hails from Provence, boasts a plethora of lavender products: eau de cologne, candles, massage cream and a portable roll-on stick to combat stress throughout the day.

L’Apothiquaire retails a 10 mL bottle of lavender essential oil for US $15. The boutique

also sells organic lavender aromatherapy eye pillows to relieve eye puffiness, headaches, congestion and insomnia.

From crème brulée and biscotti to peppered lavender beef and herb-infused bread, lavender graces the tables of high-end restaurants worldwide. Bring the aromatic French export into your kitchen via honey, chocolate and tea. L’Apothiquaire’s soothing Evening Tea features lavender alongside rosemary, marjoram and hawthorn.

In The Lavender Garden, author Robert Kourik describes the scent as “simultaneously fresh, floral, sweet, pungent, hay-like, citrus-like, with perhaps an elusive hint of mint…” If you have never inhaled the touted aroma of lavender, it is well worth tracking some down. And while you need not travel as far as Provence, chances are you wouldn’t regret the visit.

48 asialife HCMC

Photographer: Antonie Blue Models: Andrea Aybar and Maxim Matrenin Make up: Quoc Hung Fashion and Stylist: La Hieu HCM City Stockist: 180C Le Van Sy, Ward 10, Phu Nhuan District

asialife HCMC 49

50 asialife HCMC

Vietnamese fashion designer La Van Trung Hieu is a young man of many talents. “I have been interested in art—especially drawing—since I was very young,” says Hieu. His beautiful sketches garnered him several art awards throughout high school.

It was not until he was a bit older that he opted to study fashion. He recently completed a three-year fashion degree at Raffles College of Design and Commerce Australia.

“My main inspiration [for my designs] comes from being interested in the cultures of different countries,” Hieu says. “I have already done a Korean collection and a Greek collection.”

Hieu is a current student at the HCM City Conservatory

of Music and the first male to enroll in the harp department.

Needless to say, the harp was a muse for his Greek-inspired collection. Hieu knows how to perform an impressive rendition of ‘Right Here Waiting for You’ on the string instrument, too.

He also plays the lute—an instrument used heavily in traditional Vietnamese musical performances—and sometimes brings his lute to orphanages here in HCM City in order to share this piece of Vietnamese culture with the children.

Hieu’s fascination with different cultures around the world has inspired him to move to Europe one day. But, for the moment, he is enjoying exploring his many talents in Vietnam.

asialife HCMC 51

Malaysia Airlines Unit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663 www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

listings

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM CityHanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

escape

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of

deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

HANOI

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and

Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest fivestar hotel in town, tailored to meet the

take flight with travel promotions around the region

A Life Resorts Promo for Japanese and Korean Readers

For the month of November, Life Resorts is slashing room rates for all Korean and Japanese residents of Vietnam.

The newest excuse to get some sand between your toes, the ‘Your Passport to Life’ promotion offers special prices to residents who stay at any of the four-star Life Resorts properties within this specified 30-day period. Under the discounted fees, beach holidays at the breezy Blue Ocean Resort Mui Ne will be priced at US $65 a night for a Standard Room. For those who need a substantial vacation from work, Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon is offering its Superior Room for US $65 a night. In historic Hoi An, Superior Rooms at Life Heritage Resort along the Thu Bon River will cost US $75 per night. For inquiries and reservations, call 08 3844 3605 or visit life-resorts.com.

Special Offer for Vietnamese and Expats at Vedana Lagoon

Vedana Lagoon Resort and Spa, Hue is offering a special deal for Vietnamese and Expatriate residents of Vietnam. Until April 30 2012, stay in a Lagoon View Bungalow for US $200, an Aqua Bungalow for $270, a Pool Honeymoon Villa for $270, or a Pool Family House for $600. The offer includes

52 asialife HCMC

treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

airport pick-up and drop-off, complimentary yoga and tai chi classes, shuttle service to and from Hue city, and tours to the citadel and Thien Mu pagoda. There will also be a dinner offered on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve: adults will pay US $115, children between 4 and 12 will pay $80 and children under 4 can enter free. ID or resident card are required for check-in.

For further information, call 05 4381 9397, email info@vedanalagoon.com or log on to vedanalagoon.com.

Sheraton Nha Trang Introduces Special Rates

The Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa’s beachfront location offers ready access to a 7-kilometre stretch of lightly toasted sand and picture-perfect waters. From September 4 until December 21, the Sheraton introduces two special rates of 1,999,000 VND++ per room per night from Sunday to Thursday and 300,000 VND++ per room per night on Friday and Saturday.

A minimum of two nights stay is required for these rates to apply. This promotion is applicable for Vietnamese nationals, overseas Vietnamese and expats working in Vietnam. Contact Nguyen Minh Tuan (Johnny) at 08 3915 2202 or 0126 558 6699 for details or visit sheraton.com/ nhatrang.

Christmas Packages at Evason Ana Mandara and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang is offering their Christmas Holiday Package until December 24. Pay from US $830++ for a Garden View Room to US $1,370++ for an Ana Mandara Suite for three nights. For five nights, pay from US $1,380++ for a Garden View Room to US $2,285++ for an Ana Mandara Suite. The package includes a 30-minute body scrub, daily breakfast buffet, round trip airport transfer, bicycle use, steam room and sauna. There will be a US $100++ surcharge per person for a compulsory gala dinner on December 24. To make a reservation, call 05 8352 4705 or email reservationsnhatrang@evasonresorts.com Six Senses Ninh Van Bay has also set up their Christmas Holiday Package, valid until December 26. Rates for three nights range from US $1,470++ for a Hill Top Villa to US $4,020++ for the Presidential Suite. Pay from US $2,450++ for a Hill Top Villa to US $6,700++ for a Presidential Suite for five nights. The package includes a 30-minute organic Vietnamese facial, daily breakfast buffet, round trip airport transfer, sparkling wine, snorkelling and kayaking. Pay US $120++ per for the gala dinner on December 24. Call 05 8352 4268 or email reservationsninhvan@sixsenses.com.

BE A GUEST OF PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA STAY 2 NIGHTS, PAY ONE USD 225 net / Mandarin Suite / Night.

USD 385 net / Princess Villa / Night.

Valid until 30 Nov 2011; except 2 - 4 Sep 2011. Local Residents only.

For an additional $60 per night, set dinner for two persons.

Terms & Conditions Apply.

Recommended by Condé Nast Johansens & Kiwi Collection

Ke Ga Bay, 35 km South of Phan Thiet Tel: (84 62) 3682 222; Fax: (84 62) 3682 333 Email: info@princessannam.com Website: www.princessannam.com

needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

10.479.000VND nett (499USD nett)

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues.

Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room WiFi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com

54 asialife HCMC

Located in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom. Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes.

Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

HUE Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms.

Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat,

58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

PHAN THIET L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious

rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKOcertified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com

PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU

Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Agency HCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9170 Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District Tel: 04 3828 0702 www.buffalotours.com.vn Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

FREEDOM AND COMFORTS OF HOME IN INTERCONTINENTAL 1-BEDROOM RESIDENCES. Designed to comply with the innovative 'live, work, entertain' lifestyle, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences are a great choice for those who seek for unique and enriching experiences in Ho Chi Minh City.

For one night or years, our fully furnished and fabulous 78 sq.m 1-bedroom residences are available now for lease.

For more information, please contact 3520 8888 or email: residences@icasianasaigon.com or visit: www.intercontinental.com/saigonres In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG . LONDON . NEW YORK . PARIS

asialife HCMC 55

with bright, warm décor and great tunes.

Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

listings

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 1720 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

food & drink BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating

feast

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.  Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music.

Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere. 

O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Irresistible Ciroc and Salmon Pairing

From the 5 to the 13 of November, the Caravelle Hotel is preparing a savoury treat for guests in the Lobby Lounge. Snack on lightly cured smoked salmon served on toasted apricot hazelnut bread with chive sour cream, washed down with an invigorating shot of Ciroc vodka. The cosmopolitan combo goes for 298,000 VND++ and is available from 5 pm until midnight. Call 08 3823 4999 or click on to caravellehotel.com.

19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Saturday Brunch at Square One

Each Saturday morning, Square One’s Chef Benjamin chooses fresh, fine ingredients, which he assembles into à-la-minute tasting portions. The made-to-order brunch menu features Vietnamese and Western starters; fresh seafood served chilled, steamed or grilled; and a premium selection of imported aged beef grilled to perfection. Other highlights include preparation of gourmet style eggs and tantalising petite dessert portions.

Saturday brunch is available from 11.30 am to 2.30 pm for 1,050,000 VND++ per adult without champagne and 1,650,000 VND++ per adult with free flow champagne. For reservations and enquiries, contact Square One at 08 3520 2359, email squareone.saiph@ hyatt.com or check out www.restaurants. parkhyatt.saigon.com. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1.

Christmas Bazaar at Mekong Merchant and MM Bistro Saigon

On November 19 from 3 pm until 9 pm, Mekong Merchant and MM Bistro Saigon will

56 asialife HCMC

Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia.

Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

host a Christmas Bazaar. Unique Christmas gifts will be available for purchase, plus delicious Christmas food like roast turkey, ham, homemade chutneys and mulled wine.

Part of the proceeds will be donated to the Indochina Media Memorial Foundation, a nonprofit organisation promoting the education of journalists in Southeast Asia, and Heartbeat Vietnam, which funds life-saving heart surgery for underprivileged Vietnamese children. For additional details, email maricel@mmbistro.com or visit mmbsaigon.com.

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, District 2.

Delectable Buffet Dinner at Market 39

Known as one of the most popular restaurants for dinner get-togethers, Market 39 is offering delectable buffet dinner with choices of international as well as local delicacies.

The dinner is priced at 550,000 VND++ per person excluding beverages. If you’d like soft drinks, beer or wine, the price is 650,000 VND++ per guest. Enjoy this special offer from 6 until 10 pm from Sunday to Thursday.

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.

Shang Palace

Shang Palace Restaurant is introducing an a-la-carte menu during the month of November. Hong Kong’s Executive Chef Cheung Wing Keung and his team will prepare a selection of traditional and modern Chinese cuisine consisting of signature dishes such as pan-fried beef short-ribs with barbecue Sauce and deep-fried scallop balls covered

with salted egg yolk. Such variety—as well as elegant décor and outstanding hospitality—will tempt even the most discerning food-lover. For details call 08 3823 2221 or email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn.

First Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.

American Thanksgiving Dinner Buffet at the Caravelle

Embrace the spirit of the holidays at the Caravelle Hotel’s highly anticipated American Thanksgiving Dinner Buffet this November 24. The chefs of Nineteen Restaurant will cook up western and Asian delicacies: delicious appetizers, assorted cheeses, oysters and fish roe, imported meat, fresh fish, and seafood cooked to one’s liking. Traditional favourites will include roasted turkey with classic trimmings, pumpkin cream soup, and pecan pie. Dinner will be followed by scrumptious desserts and a white chocolate fountain. The banquet will be priced at 1,144,000 VND++. Call 08 3823 4999 for more information or log on to www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.

sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

Gloria Jean's Coffee Grand View, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 228 Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas.

Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selection of gift items.  Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

asialife HCMC 57

street gourmet

www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Xoi vi Most people who spy a piece of xoi vi are either intrigued or taken aback by its vibrant purple colour.

Rest assured, this sweet dessert is au natural all the way, from the sticky rice, sesame seeds and green lentil that make up its ingredients to the purple leaf

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works. Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton

58 asialife HCMC

that gives the treat its violet hue. It is slightly chewy and mild tasting with hints of anise that draw all of its flavours together. Served over a bright green banana leaf, xoi vi comes in various sized pies that cost between 3,000 VND and 15,000 VND.

Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

FRENCH Agapéstro River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong,

Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 669 252 Serves fine French cuisine originating from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior.

Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices.

Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

MM Bistro 23 Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 3744 6478 A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more. Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.

INDIAN Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of

vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer. 

Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Boomarang Cresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet

DELECTABLE ALL YOU CAN EAT DIM SUM Our signature Chinese restaurant, Yu Chu, is offering a special “All You Can Eat Dim Sum” promotion with a wide selection of authentic delicacies, freshly prepared by our skillful Yu Chu culinary team.

300,000 VND++ / person, including iced or hot tea 12:00pm - 2:30pm, daily Yu Chu – 1st floor of InterContinental Asiana Saigon

For more information or to make a reservation, please contact 3520 9099 or email at: dine@icasianasaigon.com or visit intercontinental.com/saigon In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG . LONDON . NEW YORK . PARIS

asialife HCMC 59

imbibe

street gourmet

La Deuxieme Partie: USA vs. France and the World (California and Oregon State Wines)

By Darryl Bethea Last month I discussed the Napa Valley Reds and why you should consider this region when shopping for wine.

Now let’s take a look at the rest of the best.

In that historic Paris Tasting of 1976, another stunning upset was recorded: California chardonnays outscored their French counterparts, taking top honours! Now it’s 35 years later and the region still produces championship wines. In Sonoma County (30 minutes west of Napa) you will find the Russian River Valley, an area known for cool nights and mornings, plus great fog rolling in from the Pacific Ocean.

There you will find some outstanding chardonnay grape varietals and can experience two styles of wine: clean, crisp wine with a low alcohol content or an oaky style with notes of toasty wood, nutmeg and cinnamon.

In the world of sauvignon blancs, Marlborough New Zealand has long reigned. But recently, American sauvignon blancs from vineyards such as Honig and Cakebread in Napa Valley have become the most requested wines in American restaurants. Citrus flavours— from grapefruit, lemons and limes—impart a zing of tartness with great acidity that is truly mouthwatering. In fact, when it comes to pairing food with wine, sauvignon blancs usually conquer chardonnays in popularity, making them an

60 asialife HCMC

easy choice for lighter dishes like seafood and salads.

Surprised? Don’t be. The best wine making regions of the world are located between 30 and 50 degrees latitude in both hemispheres. If you look at a global map, you will see that, in the Northern Hemisphere, Bordeaux and Burgundy France are between 40 and 50 degrees, and Napa Valley California and Willamette Valley Oregon are between the same latitude in North America. Yes, Oregon is home to world class Pinot Noir.

In 1976 the French started to see similarities between the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the rolling hills of Burgundy where Pinot Noir rules supreme. Elegant and sensual, Pinot Noir is lighter in body, colour and mouth feel than a tannic cabernet sauvignon, yet not without complexity and a lingering finish. Oregon boasts some of the world’s best Burgundystyle Pinot Noir at very ‘unBurgundy’ like prices.

America produces some great wines and Vietnam is now one of the best Asian countries to discover these wines. Through wine tastings, dinners, and venues that are promoting these new wines, you can continue to travel through the world of wine!

Viva La Vino in Vietnam.

Cheers!

Hu tieu go The next time you hear two metal spoons clanking outside, grab your wallet and follow your ears— they’re likely to lead you straight to a bowl of hu tieu go. This soup is made from pork, incredibly tasty extra thin rice noodles, bean sprouts, spring and dried onion, chillis, chives and a “secret” sauce

near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

El Gaucho 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879 Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

that kicks the taste up a couple of notches. A family usually mans the hu tieu go wagon—dad and mom prepare the soup and the kids run it to customers.

Hu tieu go is quite hearty and a must for those looking to change up their daily pho routine. A bowl costs approximately 10,000 VND.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com

Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-style brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373

New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square,

D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German

asialife HCMC 61

dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

recipes

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Tomato Gazpacho, Avocado Tartare, Crispy Potato Chips Serves 4

For gazpacho 500 gr ripe tomatoes, quartered 200 gr cucumber, peeled and chopped 100 gr red pepper 50 gr red onion 1 tablespoon chopped dill 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1/4 cup white vinegar 3/4 c olive oil 1/4 cup iced water Salt Pepper For avocado tartare 1 whole avocado cut small 1/2 red onion chopped small 1 red pepper cut small 1 tomato cut small 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley 2 tablespoons of chopped cilantro 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil Salt Pepper

For the potato chips 1 whole potato sliced very thin Vegetable oil for frying PREPARATION Gazpacho 1. Mix all ingredients and allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

2. Blend until smooth, then strain.

3. Refrigerate immediately.

Avocado tartare 1. Mix all ingredients in a bowl, season with salt and pepper.

Potato chips 1. With the use of a mandolin or a slicer cut the potatoes to form chips.

2. Heat the oil and fry, constantly moving until crispy.

To serve With a 2 cm sized mould make a tower of the avocado tartare in the centre of the plate. Slowly pour the cold gazpacho, garnish with 3 pcs of potato chips.

Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Woodfired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa Italia 86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn Serves home-style Italian cooking including pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Braceria 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn A Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed

62 asialife HCMC

brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.  Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. 

JAPANESE Chiisana Hashi River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine including sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Kissho 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343 kissho.wmcvietnam.com Saigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and

beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND. Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant.

Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Banian Tree River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252 A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.

Offers a set lunch from US $8 per person, set dinner from $15 per person. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca Viet Nam River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252 Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmeric grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10

asialife HCMC 63

Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen.

Cloud 9 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC (Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544 Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and desserts. Open 6pm till late.  Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

64 asialife HCMC

Bar's bar 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3352 Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre.

Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late. 

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot

NIGHTCLUBS

ties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

at home BAKERIES Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner par-

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

We’re still here

new location, number and menu

3744 6790 now at the Boat House kitchen we bring all the old favorites plus selected Boat House menu

DELIVERY Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

asialife HCMC 65

Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches.

Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi. 

Kim Hai Butchery 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

KITCHEN Tel: 0974 444 001 kitchen.net.vn Visit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sausages and vegetarian dishes.

Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Serving up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Bellany Gelato & Sorbet Tel: 0122 774 3132 New Italian gelato and sorbet brand made entirely from local fresh fruit and adapted to contain minimal fat and sugar. Delivers to Thao Dien, An Phu residents from 4 pm to 9 pm in just 30 minutes. 125 ml, 450 ml and 2.8 litre packages are available and there are 15 flavours to choose from.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Future Sense 284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 6099 Ice cream home delivery service featuring banana-on a stick, Ola premium ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice cream, all produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Grand-Place Chocolate 1A Me Linh Square, Room C4, D1 Tel: 3823 4068 www.grandplacechocolate.com delivery@grandplacechocolate.com Belgian chocolate manufacturer offering high quality chocolate for professionals and chocolate lovers. Chocolate available in 1kg blocks or 2.5kg buttons.

Free delivery.

La Dorée 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 65 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a luxurious Parisian bakery, La Dorée prepares and serves a variety of colourful breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds plus baguettes, fougasse, le dieppois sandwiches and le montagnard. Must-try desserts include tiramisu, chocolate mousse and Monté Carlo.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned

by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

VINE Cellar Door 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

listings

www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

culture

me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions.

Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen.

Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

100 USD (2.100.000 vnd) per ticket

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

All of this charity gala’s profits are dedicated to the Fondation Alain Carpentier that pays for destitute Vietnamese children to have cardiac surgery at the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

asialife HCMC 67

counsel corner

Freedom from Depression (Part Two: Moving into Happiness Through Exercise)

By Briar Jacques This month I will draw on the wisdom of Ayurveda, the Indian holistic system of health, to suggest how to best deal with depression through physical activity.

It is important to identify how your body, mind and emotions respond to being depressed.

If your depression is mixed with anxiety—loss of appetite, insomnia, scattered thoughts, excessive worry, getting easily startled—exercise should focus on rhythm rather than exertion.

Think bike riding, golf, walking and kayaking. Also focus on calming, rhythmic motion— gentle yoga, Pilates, dance and light cardiovascular activity.

Attune yourself to your natural biorhythms—rise at six, sleep at ten, eat at the same times each day, exercise at the same times each day. Working with your body, not on your body will help minimise self-critical thoughts.

If your depression expresses itself as irritability, anger, tearfulness, headaches, broken sleep or vivid, violent dreams, focus on repetitive, cooling motion. Swimming, rowing, horseback riding, mountain biking and moonlight walks are all excellent. Choose moderate intensity yoga, moderate cardio activity and meditative pursuits like tai chi or qigong. You might be drawn to intense, competitive exercise, but a ‘no pain, no gain’ attitude only feeds the depression. Seeking out activities that connect you to your feelings in the moment will help with self-acceptance and self-nurture.

What if lethargy, excessive

68 asialife HCMC

eating, over sleeping, apathy and feelings of hopelessness define your depression? You need to be stimulated, challenged and pushed out of your comfort zone. Therapy, temporary anti-depressants, natural supplements, dietary change or treatments such as Kahuna massage might start the ball rolling. Once you feel your energy beginning to come back, diving into physical exercise will speed your movement out of depression. Rethink your organisational structures regarding exercise. For example, commit to exercising with a friend or join a course. Using external measures while your motivation is low is wise—they will help you show up! Focus on exercise that shakes you and breaks the inertia. Vigorous yoga, weight training, team sports, dance classes, running or walking with a friend will help you move and also break your cycle of isolation. As you progress, try exciting sports like rock climbing, abseiling or scuba diving. Not only will these pursuits push you out of your comfort zone, they will unearth resources and qualities you weren’t aware you possessed. Thus the hopeless, condemning self-talk that accompanies your type of depression will be interrupted by a fresh voice saying new things.

Briar Jacques is a trained Australian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

listings

BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

sports & leisure

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge workout area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories.

Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Purpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment.

Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and AquaAerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Legend Hotel Fitness Centre 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 One of the best hotel fitness centres.

Very well-equipped gym with cardiovascular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Saigon Yoga Tel: 090 835 2265 info@saigonyoga.com www.saigonyoga.com A yoga centre with highly qualified instructors offering hot yoga, Hatha Flow, restorative yoga, kids’ yoga, pre and postnatal yoga and injury rehabilitation.

Also does corporate team building and yoga teacher training as well as organising yoga retreats.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813 Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101

dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball Club Isao Shimokawaji isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball club always looking for

70 asialife HCMC

additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paragliding info@vietwings-hpg.com Promoted by a local advertising executive turned test pilot, paragliding, hanggliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong Tan Tel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.com French-trained osteopath and physiotherapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing – Jodie Eastwood Tel: 091 859 1933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic proce-

dures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL Accadent Dental Clinic 1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 8528 English and German-speaking dentists.

Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.

German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontology and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

European Dental Clinic 17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255 info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050 drhung01@yahoo.com www.nhakhoatuxuong.com Provides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Specialises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777 The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Westcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host

asialife HCMC 71

questions for the coiffeur

to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98 Le Brian Salon 201 Calmette, D1 195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2 Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

The Root of the Problem

By Lloyd Morgan Most highlighted blondes at some point or another realise that over time they are becoming obviously blonder than initially desired. Unlike in the West, salons in Vietnam do massage both at the basin and when seated. Though I promote this all the way, there is sometimes a price to pay.

Don’t get swept away with feeling sleepy. Pay attention to what is being done to your hair! Vietnamese stylists possess the mindset that all western blondes want to look like Marilyn Monroe but that doesn’t always ring true.

Recently, one of my clients came back to me after a long time away. She had decided to try several salons in town since she never liked coming out to An Phu. I had loved doing her fine platinum highlights, but what I saw when she returned was a far cry from how she looked before.

She came back with nearly a full head of colour, but almost none of her natural colour was present. Thick chunky foils had zapped the natural hue out of her locks. As I explained to her, “Houston, we have a problem.”

The only way I could remedy this problem was to lowlight as much of her hair as I could. The colour I use is very good, but it goes a bit choco-

72 asialife HCMC

latey after a while. So, after a very intensive consultation I proceeded to rebuild her hair back to its former glory.

Every time she came in for a visit, I had to be careful to pick out the lowlights and go over them so as not to leave in any chocolate. We were able to achieve this by flat ironing first. She also had to come in each time with as much regrowth as possible.

In order for any highlight to look good, you must have some of of your natural colour to contrast the highlights being put in. If this does not happen, you will not have a natural effect. Now, nine months later, her hair looks great.

One last tip: be careful your colourist does fine— not thick—foils unless you request thick ones. Since we have lots of new people in town, I am offering a special deal at the moment. All new clients who bring in my article will receive a 20% discount.

We also do free pedicures and manicures with every colour job.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

MEDICAL Australian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (ACPD) 273-275 Ly Thai To, D10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa healthchecks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND. Counselling Martin Donnelly 0946 015 697 mdonnell36@msn.com Briar Jacques 0122 480 8792 bjacques123@gmail.com Helps families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-theart medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

Hanh Phuc International Women & Children Hospital Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 650 363 6068 www.hanhphuchospital.com Managed by Thomson Medical Singapore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2 Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacques mdonnell36@msn.com Cel: 0946 015 697 bjacques123@gmail.com Cel: 0122 480 8792 Helping families, individuals, couples, children and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on mental, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com

Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are

higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

CLOTHES

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore.

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

asialife HCMC 73

Debenhams Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

MONTESSORI Early Childhood Program International & Bilingual (English and Vietnamese/ French/or Mandarin)

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 months Kindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 years Half day and full day

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.

After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese).

Tel: 37442639 - 35194562 0903 858659

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

www.montessori.edu.vn info@montessori.edu.vn Thao Dien Campus: 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMC An Phu Campus: Ground floor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC)

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Montessori International School of Vietnam

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088 www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extracurricular activities.

74 asialife HCMC

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Horizon International Bilingual School HCMC 6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482 www.hibsvietnam.com The only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students.

Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s longterm strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring

of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7,

offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line

the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

PARTIES Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons.

Also provides helium balloons.

asialife HCMC 75

listings

finance

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org

Prize Certificates

By Paul McLardie At a base level, economics is a study of incentives— what makes somebody do something. Keep this in mind for now. Recently there have been proposals about a change in the way people own gold in Vietnam. Gold is used more than just as a store of wealth here. Property gets purchased with it and people speculate on the price of gold through buying and selling small amounts either through recognised channels or on the black market.

The changes that have been proposed will make the purchase, resale, and holding of gold easier for all. The idea states that the 500 tonnes of gold that is currently held in the hands of individuals, valued at roughly $20bn USD, should be used as a national resource.

So, instead of buying your gold and taking it home, you will get a gold certificate that can be traded or used as collateral.

As the vast majority of individuals that purchase gold also have deposit accounts at banks, the purchase of gold certificates will be done there, hopefully reducing the gold transactions by between 20 and 30 percent. It will take a lot of work. So, back to my original question: why would people want to do this?

1) As the Vietnamese dong is not an international transferable currency, the speculation of gold against the USD has led to gold prices here being more expensive than on

76 asialife HCMC

British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org

the international market. By opening up the international banks to be able to trade gold in an international context this should stabilise the price against global markets.

2) The state bank will have the opportunity to purchase and store gold from the banks. This is the first measure of downward price control. Again, this will give the state bank something to trade with on the open market, domestically and globally, either through direct sales or through derivatives.

3) The gold market will again be under full control of the statebank and the government. They will be able to set the prices of the gold versus USD versus VND. Could a convoluted manipulated version of a gold standard work here? Well, remember: these are just proposals at the moment.

The second week in October saw gold shops running out of stock, and the stock market being more volatile than a Second World War grenade with its pin out. The state bank had to release an alleged 10 tonnes of gold onto the market to stabilise it. It’s good to see fresh ideas to solve problems, but are they actually looking to the root cause of the problem?

Well, that’s for another column.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional acces-

sory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and aftersales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

TORNAK Vietnam 79C Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 09 3351 7402 www.tornak-vietnam.com Tornak Vietnam is an international training consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisations.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com

Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

education and professional development programmes.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

Odyssey Resources Limited 7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562Â odyssey-resources.com Leading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Inspired Image 42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1 Tel: 091 635 2573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Image consultant and personal stylist.

Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive

SeaSonS GreetinGS

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com

www.mekong-creations.org

FA L L FU N Starts at Gymboree Play & Music!

At Gymboree Play & Learn classes, songs, stories and play become the basis for a friendship that will last a lifetime.

Ho Chi Minh City 141 Bui Vien District 1

Hanoi 13 Hang Bac Hoan Kiem

Tel 08 2210 3110

Tel 04 3926 4831

Open 10 am-8 pm everyday

Open 9 am-9 pm everyday

SPECIAL PROMOTION! Receive

15 Play Gym or

Junior Gymbo for FREE upon enrollment in 15 classes package!*

*Terms and conditions apply.

Playtime creates meaningful memories for you and your child.

Taking interest in playtime lets your child know how special he or she is and builds conďŹ dence!

Play helps your child develop a strong body and happy mind.

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Dist. 1, HCMC. Tel: (08) 38277008, www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn

asialife HCMC 77

people matter

With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Maintaining Focus

By Gary Woollacott Sometimes the ideas for my columns come relatively easily, or are suggested by readers.

This one was harder—I kept getting distracted from the task, my mind was drifting, and the deadline was approaching: I’d lost focus. And then it hit me, the importance (and this can’t be overemphasised) of being focused on whatever you are doing.

Leave multi-tasking to those who claim they are great at it (most of us aren’t anyway, despite what some individuals may claim for themselves) and concentrate on the important issues at hand.

If you don’t already do it, train yourself to prioritise. If you’re like me, sometimes the sheer volume of work we are expected to deal with can feel overwhelming. But it need not be that way: one simple remedy is to break things down into discrete tasks and tackle the most important and urgent ones first. If you need to get away from the general office noise to concentrate, shut yourself in a conference room; take a colleague for a ten minute walk in the park, or a coffee, if there's something you need to discuss—perhaps strategy or pricing for a new client— that doesn’t require you to be inside. It may surprise you that the change of scenery frees up your thinking

78 asialife HCMC

process and allows you to become more creative.

Research shows that completing the difficult and/or unpleasant tasks in the morning can lead to a much more productive day overall. And that makes sense, doing them so they don’t hang around all day—and then there’s no temptation to procrastinate: Oh, I’ll do that tomorrow.

Something I have discovered about myself is that I’m not very good at listening to someone while I’m typing an email. I've learned that I do hear what was said but, because I’m concentrating on my own output, the information just doesn’t always sink in. So I’ve trained myself to take my hands off the keyboard (no temptation at all then) and listen to what I’m being told, and take notes there and then so I can follow up. My colleagues certainly appreciate my active listening rather than being rude by asking them to repeat it five minutes later.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net.

Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store selling locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai 213C Dong Khoi

www.phuongmai-gallery.com Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Tech Street Huynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

LEGAL

MOTORBIKES

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

80 asialife HCMC

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a well-organized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism.

Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority.

Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton

International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@ opusasia.net.

Smart HR Capital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828 www.smarthrvietnam.com Human resource consultants specialising in job search and selection, and human resource management.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454 Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com. vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 & 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

JVK International Movers Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6 www.jvk.com International agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight services and worldwide transit coverage.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

femme fashion

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Show Us Your Crocs

By Khoi Nguyen I recently went back to Melbourne after four years for a two-week visit and I was so excited to check out the fashion scene there again. Arguably the most ‘cosmopolitan’ city in Australia, Melbourne benefits from having very specific season changes—sometimes within a day. Thus the scene is a mix of suburban beach babes, Collins Street Fashionistas and Toorak ladies-wholunch—usually in some shade of black.

Every trip I take back home, I go shopping for my sister.

Usually I get her a tough but stylish leather handbag (the limited $2800 Prada bag at Chaddie was out of the question) or comfortable but pretty shoes. What I noticed was everything was at least four inches high, wedged and strapped. Not something my sister would wear.

Further hunting landed me at the Crocs store. Yes, I’m talking about Crocs, the infamous holey plastic clog-like cousin of the Birkenstock.

If you haven’t heard of Crocs, you’ve probably seen them: colourful plastic clogs with holes in them and that ugly strap that resembles the handles of your garden bucket.

Only two kinds of people look great in them—Smurfs and five year olds. My nephew has a pair that comes with little figurines you can plug into the holes to accessorize them.

When it comes to style,

82 asialife HCMC

I’ve always been a glutton for comfort. The most restricting thing I have in my wardrobe is probably a pair of skinny jeans that I no longer fit into.

But as we all know, looking fabulous usually does not go hand-in-hand with comfort so, to my pleasant surprise, Crocs now have a wonderfully girly and stylish range that has overshadowed their less aesthetically pleasing clogs aforementioned. I’ve outlined four of my favorites below.

- Crocs Adrina Strappy Sandals: mega cute jelly strapped sandals in refreshing Grapefruit/Oyster, Black and Aqua/Celery. Light and completely water proof, perfect for Saigonistas!

- Crocs Sexy Slip: one strap between the toes that goes around the ankle in one blocked colour (neon orange, neon yellow and brown). How are these anything but sexy?

- Crocs Carlie Flats Animal Wave: a classic silhouette in animal print and completely waterproof. Who’d guess these were Crocs? My sister loves them!

- Crocs Adrina Flats: strapped or circled, the jelly outers with the brightly coloured insoles are delicious. Comes in Citrus/Celery, Ultra-violet/Berry, Grapefruit/Oyster and Black.

"Vietnamese Australian... Fasion brought me home - and what an exciting time it is to be here!" Don’t Be Khoi.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary

watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

asialife HCMC 83

style for gents

Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Random thoughts

By Nacho Navarro This month I would like to take my column in a slightly different direction. I would like to delve into what I call the urgency to cultivate a certain attitude or set of manners that will ultimately enhance one’s sense of style—and general well being.

This is something that can’t be explained easily, so please bear with me.

Gentlemen, we are all forced to face very tight social patterns that unconsciously influence the way we behave.

The big difference is that as individuals we are responsible for everything that happens around us, including the success or failure of an important deal, business or personal relationship. We belong to— and come from—very different backgrounds. International friends are constantly offering us interesting opportunities.

But I tell you something, individuality is just as important as living in a society where we are taught that you are what you have or the way you look.

Dressing properly for any occasion (looking your best to please yourself and others) can cause immense stress as we are constantly trying to balance our looks with the other skills we know are as important as how we look.

My point is that probably the most important part of looking great is changing our mentality, our perception, and the things that make a man complete: music, arts, cuisine, knowledge of talented writers or influential

84 asialife HCMC

people who made a difference in our history.

Nobody can be a true gentleman without cultivating the soul and filling it with poetry, music, literature, cuisine and travelling, knowing and understanding that men should be in this century the ‘Geishas’ of society. I will tell you that nothing attracts a women more than a complete man, starting from the dressing and grooming but most important, being a true friend, confidante and mentor guiding and enriching the soul with passion, arts and proper manners.

Recently I was watching a TV series where the most successful CEOs in their late 30s and early 40s were facing the dilemma of having to choose between their families and their careers. For me, as far as you go trying to reach your own self-satisfaction, you will feel empty when you forget what’s really important in your life.

Knowing what the important things in life are—and growing as a man to accept changes or reorganise priorities—will ultimately make you an amazing gent. Just remember that you are what you allow yourself to be.

Nacho Navarro is the cofounder of Italian fashion brand for men, SANTO NERO ®.

He is also a coach at JetSet® Vietnam, instructing in all areas of style and elegance for men.

You can contact him at nacho. navarro@santonero.com.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing.

D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com

Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist.

Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

SHOES Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

5N\`LU =HU 3PUO 7HYR^H` ;HU 7OVUN >HYK +PZ[YPJ[ /V *OP 4PUO *P[` =PL[UHT ;LSLWOVUL! -H_! ,THPS! IHaaHY'ZZPZ LK\ ]U

SSIS PTA CHARITY

BAZAAR

November 26, 2011 from 9AM to 3PM ‹ 6]LY ]LUKVYZ PU VUL ]LU\L ‹ :VTL[OPUN MVY L]LY`VUL! NYLH[ WYPaLZ NYLH[ ZOVWWPUN HUK SV[Z VM M\U ‹ )YPUN [OL ^OVSL MHTPS`

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORS Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

asialife HCMC 85

Oktoberfest - Photos by Alex Belikov

AFL - Photos by Brett Davis

86 asialife HCMC

Koto Opening - Photos by Fred Wissink

Celebration of Cultures - ISHCMC

asialife HCMC 87

1 h in Ch

an h

D

h in

PHU NHUAN Ng uye nV an

Huynh Va n Ban

h

nD

yn Hu

inh

Ph u

ng

Tro i

Tran Quang

B

Ph a

hV an B

Ng

Dieu

Na m

Tran Quang

T han g on g Qu y

Ly Ch inh ng

en Hi g on hu oi .T hu .C Ng

Ph u

n

Bi e

Ng uy en Th ien

en uy Ng

n So

e uy Ng

Th ua t

Pha

To

nh

ity rs al ve tur es i Un f Na nc o cie S

Ha

M hi nT

h in

K

nh Cha iet V m

Ng

ng Tro inh nB Tra

u Ph

88 asialife HCMC

uo An D

g uon ng V

r che Tea ining Tra ersity v Uni

Cu

n

DISTRICT 5

Van

an To

an Tr

n uye

ng Pho

g on Vu ng u H

Di

V

Ba nC o

Ly Tha i

E

Thanh

Qu ye n

en uy Ng

V C u M hu on ar o ke i t

Do

inh

V

Ca oT ha ng

District 11 2km

B

Ng uy en Th o

g2 han 3T

Tra nM

en Di

o Xu Tu

DISTRICT 10

D

u Sa

en

Lan Ma n Spo Anh g Th ang Leis rts & Tam ure Clu b

ung

i Th Vo

Ky D

inh

Tru on gD inh

on g

Th

H Hoa

Tran M

Cac h

Van Dang

en uy Ng

C

n Tra

Sa inh Train igon Quy Sta en tion

Tan Binh 0.5km

h

nS y

n Dang Tran M

Ky K

Le V a

Dieu

Tran V a

Nh Tran

Nguyen Du C4, D3, D4 Nguyen Hai Tu B4 Nguyen Hue D4, D5 Nguyen Huu Canh B2 Nguyen Huu Canh C5 Nguyen Huu Cau B3 Nguyen Khac Nhu E3 Nguyen Khoai F3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong B5 Nguyen Phi Khanh B3 Nguyen Sieu C5, D5 Nguyen Son Ha D2 Nguyen Tat Thanh E5 Nguyen Thai Binh D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc D3, E3, E4 Nguyen Thi Dieu D2, D3 Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, E1, E2 Nguyen Thong C1, C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien D2 Nguyen Trai D3, E2 Nguyen Trung Ngan C5 Nguyen Trung Truc D4 Nguyen Truong To E4, E5 Nguyen Van Cu E2 Nguyen Van Hai B3 Nguyen Van Lac B5 Nguyen Van Thu B4, C3, C4 Nguyen Van Troi B1 Pasteur C2, C3, C4, D4 Pham Hong Thai D2, D3 Pham Ngoc Thach C3 Pham Ngu Lao D3, D4, E3 Pham Viet Chanh B5 Pham Viet Chanh E2 Phan Dinh Phung B2 Phan Ke Binh B4 Phan Van Han B4, B5 Pho Duc Chinh D4, E4 Phung Khac Khoan C3, C4 Suong Nguyet Anh D2, D3 Tan Vinh E4 Thach Thi Thanh B3 Thai Van Lung C5 Thi Sach C5 Thu Khoa Huan D4 Ton Duc Thang C5, D4, D5, E4 Ton That Dam D4 Ton That Thiep D4 Ton That Tung D2, D3 Tran Binh Trong E1 Tran Canh Chan E2 Tran Cao Van C4 Tran Dinh Xu E2, E3 Tran Hung Dao D4, E2, E3 Tran Khac Chan B3 Tran Khanh Du B2, B3 Tran Minh Quyen D1 Tran Minh Quyen C1 Tran Nhan Ton E1 Tran Nhat Duat B3 Tran Phu E1 Tran Quang Dieu B1, B2 Tran Quang Khai B3, B2 Tran Quoc Thao C2, C3 Tran Quoc Toan B2, B3, B2 Tran Van Dang C1, C2 Truong Chinh C3 Truong Dinh C2, D3 Tu Xuong C2, C3, D2 Vinh Khanh E4, E5 Vo Thi Sau B3, C2, C3 Vo Van Tan C3, D2, D3 Vuon Chuoi D2 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh B4, B5 Yersin E4

Airport 3km

ng Ho Le

3 Thang 2 D1 Alexandre de Rhodes C4 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3 Ban Co D1 Ben Chuong Duong E4 Ben Van Don E4, E5 Bui Thi Xuan D3 Bui Vien E3 Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3 Calmette E4 Cao Ba Nha E3 Cao Thang D1, D2, E2 Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5 Co Bac E3 Co Giang E3 De Tham E3 Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2 Dinh Cong Trang B3 Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4 Do Quang Dau E3 Do Thanh D1 Doan Nhu Hai E5 Doan Van Bo E4, E5 Dong Du D5 Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5 Hai Cua B5 Huynh Tinh Cua B2 Huynh Van Banh B1 Khanh Hoi E4 Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi D4, C5 Han Thuyen C4 Ho Hao Hon E3 Ho Huan Nghiep D5 Ho Tung Mau D4, D5 Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu E4, E5 Hung Vuong E1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3 Huynh Man Dat B5 Huynh Thuc Khang D4 Ky Dong C1, C2 Le Cong Kieu D4 Le Duan C4, C5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3, C4, D3 Le Loi D4 Le Quoc Hung E4, E5 Le Quy Don C3 Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4 Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4 Le Thi Rieng D3 Le Van Phuc B3 Le Van Sy C1, C2 Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2 Luu Van Lang D4 Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2 Ly Thai To E1 Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4 Mac Thi Buoi D5 Mai Thi Luu B4 Mai Van Ngoc B1 Me Linh B5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4 Ngo Duc Ke D5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam C5 Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5 Nguyen Cong Tru E4 Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3 NguyenDinhChieu B4,C3,C4,D1,D2,D3 Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

A

Di en

Street Guide

2

yen Ngu

DISTR Trai

3 4th Floor ONG&ONG Building 159 Phan Xich Long St Ward 7, Phu Nhuan District

Ca u Ng .H uu

V

iN

Tru on g

gh ia

TranQu

iS

Ph am

DISTRICT 3 Le Q

au

Hu ye n

uy o en Th Ng on g

ieu Ch

Tu Ly

Tam

en uy

i Tra

i Le La

Tra i uye n Ng

HCM City Boat Quay (for Vung Tau)

n Do

i u Ha n Nh Doa

uo cH un g

gD an Ho

ieu

Vung Tau

h

Nh u g an Gi o C

u r ie iT Ha

n ha tT Ta en uy Ng

Ho n

Kh

Thu Thiem Ferry Port (for District 2)

e

o Ng

To

H.

c Ba Co

cK Du

g on Tru Ng

Ho

Van Ben

h an Kh

a Nh

Ng

V

Cat Lai Ferry 9km

nh Vi

an Tr

ng Hu

ao Xu C

Ba

te et lm Ca

TRICT 1

Din h

nh

nh Ca

ep

u g Tr Con Ng.

Le Q

am Th

Tra n

ri Cu T

a

St

u Hu

i uo

Le Cong Kieu

am gG inh on iB H i ha h T T en Le uy Ng Ky C on ru gT on .C g N

De

yen Ngu

iB Th

m

Saigon Bridge & Highway 1 3km

Na m

hi . Ng H.H

ac

u M p yen hie Hu T t e Ton Th a ng

Ham Nghi

Du

hie

a

nh hi cC Du

Vien

n Hu

Ngo

n To

Th a

ng

ha cK Thu h n Huy

i Lo Le

hK

en uy Ng

ac h

Do

Ng

ng . La

l

Bin

cT ha ng

h an Th e L

i Lo Le

Le

o Da Bus tion g

g

oi

l al H n n h To w n

nT ru ng Tru c

ye n

iV an Lu at ng u Q ieu a S B o Ng Ca

To Tha

n .V Be anh t L e Th ark M

n rsi Ye

Bu i

an Tr

oc

t

u Da Q.

Binh

Do

hai

CoT Marke ng Qu yn h

ao

am Th

L Ngu Pham

De

ha nh

ang

Lac

Pham Hong Thai

inh

Kh

on Tr

u Ma

Ng

nN nA uye

Pa ste ur

Du

an hT rin h

Th iS

o Ph

Tu ng

H

Do ng

g

m Da

To nT ha t

ng Tro

Ng

h nT

en uy

Tu Ly

Ng u

h Cu

o & Ga Bo rd tan en ic s a

n en ga uy g N Ng un Tr

ng Tu

Tha ng

Kh

M

Ho

ang

H ai Th

Lu on gH uu K

ye

Cultural Park

an Xu ieng hi hi R T i Le T Bu

g on

Th u

Ch u

Zo

an Du

To n

.

T. T

ai Kh

u Ng

nh tA

inh

an Du Le

Du en uy g N Ng uy e

Co ng Ch ua

Po Cen H st tra ai Of l Ba fic Tru e n

ie

Le

ur

an nT Va

Cao Th

ran

n ye

h in

eu

es od Rh

a gh H ia

u Ng

M

Hu Re-unification ye Palace nT

Cac hM

Su

a

V

Tru on gD

n H tele HTV oa visio ng n

te Pas

Vo

n

e eD dr

a Na ex m Al Ky Kh oi N

oi Th

Di

V Xo

t Da

nh

Nh ng Th an uo hQ H ua n an Xu o H hi nT ye u Ng

Tie

h

in

eT gh N t

n Va an Ph

Di

iem

hie m

ur

War n Remnants n Ta Museum o Va

Gi aT hi eu

hK

DISTRICT 1

on

uo cT ha o

uy en

Pa ste

nh Di n ye u Ng Ma cD inh Ch i an V o a C an Tr

Ng oc Th ac h

Bin

H St oa a Di diu Lu nh m

ieu Ch

n ua

n ye

Ng

uy D

e uy Ng

u Th an V n

Ma iT hi Lu u Ke Bin h

h Tin

an

Tra nQ

hu nP Bie

en B Di a

m Ta n Va ark Le P

Qu ye n

oc To an

ho

Tr an

Qu

g

Ph an

Ng u yen Van

Ca

Hu u

oc Toa n

Tha ch T hi T han ng h u a Tr Sa .

C hi .

T D o

uy en

Huy n

Me Linh

Cu a

aT run

Ng

ng uo Ph oc

iB

Hoang S a

Ng HaiTu

Khai Tran Quang Ng. Phi Khanh L. V. Ph uc

Ng

Ky K

i nh

Ha

Van

n

m

hT

N

Cuu

e uy Ng

Ngu yen

c Chan

Duat

Hu yn

ai .H .V

yen

Pham Van Han

Truon g Sa

Nguy en D u

Du

Ngu

BINH THANH

ha Tran K

at Tran Nh

nh

Vo Huy Tan

Huynh Man Dat

o

Tha Ton D ng u Mu c seu m

La

h Tran Khan

5

Phan Xich Long

Dinh Tien Hoang

Cu

4 Gia Dinh Hospital

Do

an Van B

District 7 & Nha Be

o

o Da asialife HCMC 89

DISTRICT 4

boxoffice

Tower Heist

Puss in Boots

The Change Up

Johnny English Reborn

Josh Kovacs (Ben Stiller) manages one of the most luxurious residences in New York City. In the posh rooftop unit of Josh’s building, Wall Street giant Arthur Shaw (Alan Alda) is under house arrest after being caught stealing two billion from his investors. The hardest hit? The tower staffers whose pensions he was in charge of managing. Josh’s crew turns to petty crook Slide (Eddie Murphy) to plan the nearly impossible: steal what they are sure is hidden in Arthur’s guarded condo.

Puss In Boots tells the hilarious and courageous tale of Puss’s (Antonio Banderas) early adventures as he teams with mastermind Humpty Dumpty (Zach Galifianakis) and the street-savvy Kitty (Salma Hayek) to steal the famed Goose that lays the Golden Eggs. The film is based on the character of Puss in Boots from Shrek and his adventures before his first appearance in 2004’s Shrek 2. The prequel follows the swashbuckling cat as he meets Shrek and his friends, as well as some new characters.

Two close but very dissimilar friends swap bodies after a wild night of drinking. Dave (Jason Bateman) and Mitch (Ryan Reynolds) grew up together but their lives have taken drastically different directions over the years. Dave is a successful lawyer and father, while Mitch is a swinging single. One night, after having a few too many, Mitch and Dave voice their mutual admiration for one another, never once suspecting they might be about to find out how the other one lives.

Rowan Atkinson returns to the role of kooky secret agent in this comedy spy-thriller. In his latest adventure, this unlikely intelligence officer in Her Majesty’s Secret Service must stop a group of international assassins before they cause global chaos. When his agency superiors learn of an attempt against the Chinese premier’s life, they must hunt down the highly unorthodox agent. Johnny must employ the latest in hi-tech gadgets to unravel a web of conspiracy that runs throughout the KGB, CIA and even MI7.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy

The Change Up

www.galaxycine.vn www.megastarmedia.net

Tower Heist (November 11) Puss in Boots (November 25)

T: Thang Long

Johnny English Reborn

M: Megastar

www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

90 asialife HCMC

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Wildwood Colin Meloy Balzer & Bray

A fantastical tale set in Portland, Oregon, Wildwood is the literary debut of Colin Meloy, lead singer of indie-rock band The Decemberists. The first of The Wildwood Chronicles, the book follows the adventures of Prue McKeel, a precocious 12-yearold vegetarian, who sets out to rescue her kidnapped brother from the Impassable Wilderness. Known for his quirky lyrics, Meloy churns out musical prose with a hint of Roald Dahl and C.S. Lewis. Imaginative illustrations by his wife, Carson Ellis, add to the whimsical tenor. This is children’s literature for hipster tweens, although adults will be equally charmed by Wildwood’s cleverness.

The Marriage Plot Jeffrey Eugenides Farrar, Straus & Giroux

From the author of The Virgin Suicides and Middlesex comes another intriguing work of fiction. Whereas Jeffrey Eugenides covered darker ground in his previous two works—mass suicide and hermaphroditism—his third novel is set among Brown University students in the early 1980s. At its centre, The Marriage Plot is an archetypal love triangle narrative, and Eugenides demonstrates his talent for character construction with three distinct, complex personages. Through the eyes of English major Madeleine, the novel also navigates the academic rift between Victorian literature and post-modernism, seemingly Eugenides’ own salute to classicism in a contemporary context.

Is That A Fish in Your Ear?: Translation and the Meaning of Everything David Bellos Particular Books

As the world becomes increasingly globalised—bringing together people who previously had little opportunity for contact—translation becomes more vital than ever. In Is That A Fish in Your Ear?, David Bellos examines the oft-overlooked art of translation and the ramifications it has today. Packed with historical morsels and meaty concepts, the book will change the way readers consider language and the myriad choices that go into ascribing meaning. For anyone who wants to learn about how Google Translate works, or debunk myths such as the one that claims Eskimos have 100 words for snow, Bellos’ work will prove an illuminating read.

Jagger: Rebel, Rock Star, Rambler, Rogue Marc Spitz Gotham Books

Mick’s making a comeback. Not only is the Rolling Stones frontman referenced in the current Maroon 5 chart-topper 'Moves Like Jagger', he’s also the focus of music journalist Marc Spitz’s latest biography. For those who are caught between Mick and Keith for their Stone of choice, 'Jagger' is a plug for the former. Spitz—who has also chronicled David Bowie and Green Day—provides an engrossing, in-depth look at the musician’s life, surveying his background, legendary performances and glitzy relationships, with quotes from Patti Smith, Bianca Jagger, Sid Vicious and other notables. Celebrating the spirit of rock n’ roll, 'Jagger' gives an invigorating perspective on an icon.

asialife HCMC 91

soundfix album review

Laura Marling A Creature I Don’t Know Laura Marling is neither American nor in her thirties, but you’d be forgiven for assuming she is. Despite her flat accent and mature sound, Marling is British and 21 years old. With her two prior albums, she has been classified as part of a British neo-folk music movement, a label she’s been anxious to shed. Like a modern-day Joni Mitchell, Marling creates delicate, poetic numbers, but with A Creature I Don’t Know, she sets out to show off a range of other influences and capabilities that extend beyond folk—baring her teeth on the rollicking 'Beast', turning husky and contemplative on 'Night After Night' and doing a bit of a vocal jig on 'All My Rage'.

92 asialife HCMC

by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

Clap Your Hands Say Yeah

Girls

Björk Biophilia

Hysterical

Father, Son, Holy Ghost

Though initially wary about Clap Your Hands Say Yeah— lead singer Alec Ounsworth’s warble can be polarising—I became a fan after seeing the band perform years ago. The 2005 self-titled, self-released first album was a hit by indie standards, although the group’s second album met a harsh reception. On their third album, Hysterical, there’s some sense of redemption. Ounsworth demonstrates more control over his voice, and melodies are dynamic and varied in mood. Once again, CYHSY taps into a kind of wild wistfulness that merits its early hype—nothing quite matches debut album single 'The Skin of My Yellow Country Teeth' but it’s a worthy effort.

The spirit of the sixties is alive and well in modern pop music—there have been subtle references in records by Cat’s Eyes and Cults, and more overtly nostalgic takes such as by Beach Boys-inspired The Drums. San Francisco duo Girls (who are in fact boys) has hopped on the bandwagon, with an album that comprises dreamy ballads ('My Love is Like a River') and catchy riffs ('Magic'). The memorable 'Honey Bunny' is the album’s leader of the pack, with a snappy tune paired with droll lyrics—“They don’t like my bony body / They don’t like my dirty hair”—for a reminder of how fun being retro can be.

From her outlandish ensembles to her way out music making, Björk has always revelled in her sui generis nature. At age 45, she could easily sit back and enjoy the fruits of her lengthy career, but the Icelander continues to find new ways to innovate and inspire—for example, using an iPad to record parts of Biophilia, her eighth studio album and offering songs as a series of Apps. With moments that are stunning, Biophilia is a compelling addition to Björk’s canon and to her fans’ music libraries. She’s become something of a mystical figure, so it’s apt that Biophilia contains 'Cosmonogy', a moving canticle that evokes an alternate creationism.

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

week week

title

artist Avril Lavigne Jennifer Lopez Bad Meets Evil Feat.

Bruno Mars Bruno Mars Cobra Starship Feat.

Sabi Christina Perri Foo Fighters Adele Jason Derulo Bruno Mars

1 2 3

9 New 2

Wish You Were Here Papi Lighter

4 5

New New

It Will Rain You Make Me Feel

6 7 8 9 10

4 New 1 8 3

Jar Of Hearts Walk Set Fire To The Rain It Girl Marry You

The Wire

By Michael Tatarski

US Top 10 this last

week week

title

1

1

Moves Like Jagger

2

3

Stereo Hearts

3 4 5

2 4 5

Someone Like You Foster The People You Make Me Feel

6 7 8 9 10

10 8 6 11 7

Without You You And I Lighters In The Dark Party Rock Anthem

artist Maroon 5 feat. Christina Aguilera Gym Class Hero/Adam Levine Adele Pumped Up Kicks Cobra Starship Feat.

Usher Lady Gaga Bad Meets Evil Feat.

Bruno Mars Dev LMFAO

UK Top 10 this last

week week

title

1 2

1 2

We Found Love Moves Like Jagger

3

New

Stereo Hearts

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

12 7 New 20 3 13 4

Jar Of Hearts Sexy And I Know It Run For Your Life Wherever You Will Go Loca People The A Team What Makes You Beautiful

artist Rihanna Maroon 5 feat Christina Aguilera Gym Class Hero/Adam Levine Christina Perri LMFAO Matt Cardle Chatlene Soraia Sak Noel Ed Sheeran One Direction

There have been so many American police shows through the years that the genre has become a cliché.

However, there is one that stands way out from the pack: The Wire, in my humble opinion the greatest television show ever made. Set in Baltimore, Maryland and created

by David Simon, the brains behind two other critically-acclaimed HBO series, Generation Kill and Treme, The Wire aired from 2002 to 2008. The show is known for its sharp, slang-heavy writing, and gritty realism. Interestingly, actual gangsters have watched the show in order to learn new tactics to avoid police wiretaps and surveillance.

While the cat-and-mouse game between Baltimore’s best homicide and narcotics detectives on one side, and the vicious Barksdale gang on the other, runs throughout the series, each of the five seasons focuses on a different aspect of the city, and American society in general. In order the subjects are: the illegal narcotics trade, the port system and unions, city hall and municipal politics, public schools and, finally, print media. Every topic is handled brilliantly, even the ones that may, on paper, sound rather boring. Season four is the most powerful of the bunch, largely thanks to the student characters played by a handful

of no-name young actors.

Characters, in fact, are the reason The Wire maintains its excellence throughout its run.

The cast is huge, and people come and go as the show’s focus shifts from topic to topic, but all are brought to life memorably. Standouts in the fantastic cast include Dominic West as homicide detective Jimmy McNulty, the boozing, whoring cop who is important to every season; Idris Elba as Stringer Bell, the cerebral gangster who attends management classes when he isn’t directing drug shipments; and Michael K. Williams as Omar Little, a shotgun-toting thug that steals from gangs and lives by one rule: don’t harm anyone not in ‘the game’, his euphemism for the drug trade.

Bizarrely, The Wire never won a single Emmy award, but it was always a critical darling, and it has a large cult following in the US Several major universities, including Harvard, have even offered classes on the show, allowing students to discuss the social themes dissected so skillfully in nearly every episode. Although there is a fair amount of humor written into the show, the vulgar and violent nature of The Wire means it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it offers an intensely rewarding experience for anyone that can handle the realism.

asialife HCMC 93

radar Oh the Irony

hipsterpuppies.tumblr.com Like looking at pictures of cute puppies? Of course. Like making fun of hipsters? Hell yes! Well your two worlds will collide at this irreverent blog. Essentially the site is a place for people to post photos of their pet dog wearing hipster-ish accessories such as scarves and thick-rimmed glasses, and a caption poking fun at this much-maligned subculture. Gems include, “Dude, you haven’t really chased your tail until you’ve done it on a fixed gear bicycle,” and, “Max refuses to eat at that restaurant because he doesn't like their font.” The site has also spawned a book and a recent hipster puppy fashion parade.

A Wee Dram

3drunkencelts.com The lads behind Three Drunken Celts are devoted to the appreciation, discussion, and of course consumption of all things whiskey. Rich with reviews and tasting notes, there is a helpful category menu where you can hop to the whiskey region of your choice. With the motto, “Never forget the funny” the boys also post entertaining and informative accounts of their various adventures at different tasting events. Several downloads are available, including their whiskey tasting primer so you can brush up your whiskey appreciation skills, or even branded desktop images for your mobile phone so you know who is responsible when you are calling for that taxi home.

Made You Look

sagmeister.com The homepage for the studio of Austrian designer Stefan Sagmeister is a live-feed from camera mounted in the ceiling of the New York apartment from which his team of three works. Mouse over the buttons painted on the floor of the tiny space and you can view previous work, press clippings, buy “thinks that we believe you might want to pay for”, or a Q&A with the man himself.

Amongst other projects, he has designed album covers for Lou Reed and the Rolling Stones, and once created a poster for the American Institute of Graphic Arts by carving the text into his torso and photographing the results. Cutting edge, indeed.

94 asialife HCMC

December 3rd - Hochiminh City Opera House The Ho Chi Minh Symphony Orchestra, featuring 13 year old child prodigy violinist Do Phuong Nhi from Hanoi.

Principal singer is Ms. Thanh Nga, soprano, from HCMC Ballet Symphony Orchestra, with guests Ms. Vanessa Tantillo and Mr. Brian Riedlinger from the International Choir and Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City.

6:00 – 7:30 Art Exhibition and Silent Auction with Finger Food and free flow wine, beer, water, tea.

7:30 to 9:30 Concert 500,000VND per person, for more information or to purchase tickets, email rogerf@seanet.com or sms 0986 693 266 from Dist 2 or 7, all others 0903 365 720, providing your name, number of tickets requested and contact information.

THE TWO OF US Mirasol Aguila and Henrik Larsson were brought together through a passion for music—and a chance encounter in Pham Ngu Lao. They share their story with Madeleine Adamson. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Henrik Larsson I first came to Vietnam in Autumn 2004. My brother had been working on and off in Sweden and Vietnam for a few years with medical research.

His wife is Vietnamese and they had a child in 2004, got married, moved to Hanoi and invited me.

At that point, I wasn’t doing much back home, so I decided to go to Hanoi. I lived there for over three years, teaching English, then went back to Sweden to study. Late 2008, I got tired of Sweden—it got too cold. I talked to an old friend who lived in HCM City. She urged me to come here. So I did.

Elay and I met around Christmas, 2009. I had gone out to see my friend Randy play. When he finished his set, I went with Randy and his band to Do Quang Dau for some

96 asialife HCMC

Mirasol (Elay) Aguila night food. Elay’s band had also just finished their set at Seventeen Saloon.

She was really beautiful. She told me she was a singer, and I mentioned I wrote and produced music, so we exchanged numbers. I wanted to call her, but needed a good reason.

Then it turned out I actually did need a singer for a song I was producing. She came over, we recorded it and started hanging out—and eventually dating.

At the moment, I am starting the design program at RMIT and working on some music projects, as well as music for games and commercials. I set up a website, www.squirenetic. com, to show and share my music—some of it featuring Mirasol—and other projects, like an iPhone game for children I made earlier this year.

I am originally from the Philippines, but came to Ho Chi Minh City two years ago. A friend of mine here needed a singer and I was free. I started singing at Seventeen Saloon.

Henrik and I met in Pham Ngu Lao after I had finished work one night. He was with his Filipino friend, Randy, who knew my band and introduced Henrik to me.

I left Vietnam for a year to go to Sanya, China, for work. I just returned this past August.

Henrik and I had stayed together while I was away.

At the moment, I have some music gigs and am going to start singing at the Park Royal Hotel next month. I also teach vocal lessons. Henrik and I are very interested in music, which is a big part of what brought us together. The fact that we

love to create has also played a big part in our relationship.

I love singing, and I also love art. I draw and paint in my free time. Henrik and I write and record songs together. We set up my website, www.mirasolaguila.com, which shows my art, music and videos.

I have visited Sweden, where Henrik is from. I met his parents, his sisters, his relatives. I really enjoyed it. They treated me so well there.

We are not sure how long we will stay in Vietnam. Henrik will study here for three years.

I would like to continue my studies, too—maybe part-time while I keep singing at night. I might choose Business Administration or Computer Science.

I feel at home in Vietnam.

I think I’d like to stay here a long time.

Keeping Tabs In her pursuit of public hilarity Tabitha Carvan goes from the mundane to the ridiculous, with surprising results.

I have written before in these pages about the comedic stylings of the Vietnamese, and their favourite subject (me).

Vietnamese people seem to find me quite hilarious when I do pretty much anything (say, for example, some crazy activity like buying bananas from the market! ROFL!), but sometimes I find myself in a position where even I am prepared to admit that I must look totally ludicrous.

For example, while cycling through the city the other afternoon I decided that I absolutely had to have a helium-filled balloon shaped like a zebra with multi-coloured stripes. As I tethered that disco zebra to my handlebars, I looked right into his eyes and said, “Wait till they get a load of you.”

A foreigner, on a bicycle, with a balloon! Surely that’s worth pointing and laughing at, right? God knows, if I took that zebra on a spin through the streets of Sydney we’d get a few laughs.

But did I get so much as a double take? No. As far as everyone around me was concerned, this long-nosed, zebra-toting cyclist was the most normal thing in the world, warranting no special attention whatsoever. I felt strangely miffed. “Laugh at me!!” I wanted to scream. “Why won’t you laugh at me NOW?!!”

Then I realised that for the two years I’ve been living in Vietnam I’ve failed to fully exploit this country’s Embarrassment Exclusion Zone.

I’ve dwelled so much on why it’s apparently so ridiculously hilarious when I try to carry out an everyday task like buying bananas, that I’ve neglected to take advantage of the reverse phenomenon: the ridiculous will actually go unnoticed.

Why on earth aren’t I wearing my pyjamas in the street?

Why aren’t I hanging out with the old ladies in the park performing provocative pelvic exercises and slapping myself in the face right now? This is

the one time in my life when I can grind my groin into the side of a park bench and not be arrested for indecent behaviour, so why am I still here writing this column?

If you’re a man, you should go, right now, and buy yourself a bright pink motorbike helmet decorated with cartoon unicorns and the words ‘sweet dreamtime for my special pony’, because this is perfectly acceptable headwear for a man in Vietnam. You can finally express your inner special pony without fear of mockery. This is your time.

If you’re a lady, you should also head to the shops. When you’re there, buy yourself a completely sheer, 100 percent see-through blouse. You won’t have any trouble finding one.

And then wear a black bra underneath it, and nothing else. Oh, except for tiny little denim shorts. No-one will bat an eyelid. You could re-enact scenes from Pretty Woman with wild abandon and even then

no-one would ask you for your hourly rate.

Don’t lift up your transparent blouse to expose your belly though. That’s just for men, silly.

And we should all be singing in public. Loudly. All the time.

In taxis, while queuing at the supermarket, in the office, and especially in a café where the waitresses are all singing too.

Go on, harmonise with them!

I tested out the Vietnamese indifference to public singing after the zebra incident. I cycled down the street while singing “Rock Lobster” by The B-52’s at the top of my lungs. Nothing.

Not a single reaction. Not even when I did the bit about the catfish.

After this you should be fitting right into Vietnam.

Locals will praise you for your assimilation and you’ll never be laughed at again. Until you try to buy bananas.

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitythatneversleepsin.com. asialife HCMC 97

pub quiz Rain

Lead

1) Which trawler did the French sink in Auckland in 1985?

2) Name the Scot who invented a rainproof fabric, which is still used for raincoats.

3) The Crimea is part of which modern-day country?

4) Which film included the song “Raindrops Keep Fallin' on My Head”?

5) Which actor starred in both The Invisible Man and Casablanca?

21) What is the chemical symbol for lead?

22) In what game might Mr Black have been killed with the lead pipe in the ballroom?

23) Who first used lead pipes to carry water, often bearing the insignia of the emperor?

24) Who dropped the “a” in Lead “to prevent Americans from pronouncing it leed”?

25) Which legendary alchemical substance was said to be capable of turning lead into gold?

11) The role of which teenage ballet dancer was played in a 2000 film by the actor Jamie Bell?

12) Which comedian started his career as a welder for the Glasgow shipyards, but gave it up to become a folk singer?

13) Who had a top ten hit in 1992 with the song “Achy, Breaky Heart”?

14) Who was born William Jefferson Blythe III? 15) Who was the first Norman King of England?

98 asialife HCMC

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 538-11/CXB/108-53/THTPHCM Ngaøy 01/06/2011 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 11/ 2011

26)

365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 3517 2208 Managing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Deputy Editor: Madeleine Adamson madeleine@asialifehcmc.com

Photo Editor: Fred Wissink fred@asialifehcmc.com

Contributing Editor: Chris Mueller chris.mueller@asialifehcmc.com

Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com

27)

Senior Designer: Nguyen Mai Anh maianh@threesixfive-days.com

Production: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@threesixfive-days.com Editorial Intern: Michael Tatarski

Photography Interns: Nguyen An Vinh, Alex Belikov

For advertising and marketing enquiries please call: Nguyen Kim Hanh +84 908 298395 / +84 8 3517 2208 Distribution: Super Long +84 937 633283 AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Ba Sau Nam Co,Ltd Vietnam

28)

9 3

4 1

9 2

29)

9

1

1

6

6 5

4

1

7

8 3

7

5

7

5

Iron 16) In medicine, a lack of iron in the diet may cause which blood related illness?

17) What name is given to the iron gate doorway on a castle that was lifted vertically to allow entry?

18) Released in 1991, “Take Your Daughter To The Slaughter” was the only UK No. 1 for which band?

19) Which actor played two roles in the 1998 version of The Man In The Iron Mask?

20) What name is given to the industrial process where iron is electrically coated with zinc to prevent it from rusting?

Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@nxbhcm.com.vn Website:www.nxbhcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com

8

9

7 4

8 30)

Pub Quiz Answers

Silly Billy

Celebrity Bad Hair Day

Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy

1) Rainbow Warrior 2) Charles Macintosh 3) Ukraine 4) Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid 5) Claude Rains 6) Van Gogh’s Sunflowers 7) Queensland 8) Ra 9) Icarus 10) Elvis Presley 11) Billy Elliot 12) Billy Connelly 13) Billy Ray Cyrus 14) Bill Clinton 15) William the Conqueror 16) Anaemia 17) Portcullis 18) Iron Maiden 19) Leonardo Di Caprio 20) Galvanisation 21) Pb 22) Cluedo (Clue in North America) Cluedo (Clue in North America) 23) The Romans 24) Led Zeppelin 25) The philosopher's stone 26) Bruce Willis 27) Robert Downey Jr 28) Madonna 29) Queen Elizabeth II 30) Barack Obama

Sun 6) What was sold at Christie’s in London in March 1987 for US$39,921,750?

7) Which Australian state is commonly called the Sunshine State?

8) What was the name of the Egyptian sun god?

9) In Greek mythology, who flew too close to the sun?

10) Who did Sun Records sign in 1954?

Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC

Including:

1 night stay at Evason Ana Mandara

TET HOLIDAY PACKAGE 2012

Daily breakfast buffet

Refreshing welcome drink & fruit basket Round trip shuttle Bus Airport transfers

US$ 235++/ night for Garden View Room

Free internet facilities

US$ 300++/ night for Superior Seaview Room US$ 350++/ night for Deluxe Seaview Room

Terms & Conditions:

US$ 405++/ night for Deluxe Beachfront Room US$ 430++/ night for Ana Mandara Suite (The rate is in US dollar, subject to 5% service charge and 10% tax)

Tel: +84 58 3 524 705 - Fax: +84 58 3 524 704 Email: reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com

. . .. . ... . .

.

Stay validity from 22 Jan 2012 to 29 Jan 2012 Based on twin share and minimum stay 2 nights Applicable for Vietnamese and Expatriate Whole family will be maximum 2 adults + 2 children under 12 years old, sharing per room The package rate can not be combined with any bonus night or other offers.

Please mention “TET holiday� program on each booking