AsiaLIFE HCMC 34

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300,000 VND++ / person, including iced or hot tea 11:30am – 2:00pm, daily Yu Chu – 1st floor

For more information or to make a reservation, please call (84 8) 3520 9099 email: dine@icasianasaigon.com or visit intercontinental.com/saigon

AsiaLIFE volume 34

26 front

06 News & Events 12 Dispatches

food

50 Sterling's Saigon 51 Au Manor De Khai

14 Q&A with Geoff King

52 Hai Lua

16 Street Smart: Vo Van Tan

53 The Snap Cafe

20 Photo Essay: On the Face of It The man behind the An Phu Neighbours Google group takes our questions. We head down Vo Van Tan and discover a treasure trove of goodies. And in this month's photo essay, we feature the beautiful faces that tell many stories captured by Miguel Lopez on his travels through the region.

Richard Sterling regales us with stories that are bound to enthrall. We check out Au Manor De Khai, Hai Lua and The Snap Cafe.

style & design

54 Behind the Design: Moevenpick Hotel 56 She's Got The Look

on the cover

24 Of All Things Slow 26 In Slow Motion 32 The Great Escape 34 Eat, Procrastinate, Love

We all think that our lives in HCM City are less hectic or stressful because we're blessed with luxuries perhaps not available back home.

Nothing could be further from the truth, making it important for us to realise the importance of slowing down for the good of our minds, bodies and spirits. We give you the low down on how to do this.

storyboard

38 Softball by Sundays

We're impressed by the cool designs at Moevenpick. A renown make-up artist with the Body Shop visits us in HCM City and creates four unique looks on one model.

back

60 The List 96 Spotlight 98 Street Guide 106 Pub Quiz

To sign off, we capture a glimpse of HCM City nightlife; preview what's new in film, music and literature; and challenge your brain power with the Pub Quiz.

40 The Good Healer 42 Cash for 'Tash 44 Free Ny

This month we profile a softball league, a Theta healer, an elephant who hopefully is headed to her new home and a group of brave souls who grew out their facial hair for a good cause.

Getaways

46 The City that Never Sleeps

Our travel feature on Mumbai demonstrates how the city is the nerve centre of India.

Cover Art Direction Johnny Murphy Photography Fred Wissink Models Nguyen Kim Hoa Jake Houseago Anh Thi Brian Le

asialife HCMC 3

note from the editor

Muna Khan

I stopped making new year’s resolutions when I stumbled upon this quote by the writer Anais Nin: “I made no resolutions for the New Year. The habit of making plans, of criticising, sanctioning and moulding my life, is too much of a daily event for me.”

However, in the spirit of a new beginning in HCM City, at AsiaLIFE, I have vowed to reduce the number of vices to a respectable number in a bid to take greater care of myself, be a better person. I have been thinking of this for some time and the lead up to this resolution resulted in the birth of this Slow Issue (What, me? Modest?). It is a reminder of sorts to make good on the promise we make to ourselves to slow down, relax more, spend quality time with the family, nature, less with the bartender. It’s a mistake, as Dr Rafi Kot points out in the lead story, to assume that our lives in Southeast Asia are easier, slower, not as hectic because

of the luxuries at our disposal (domestic staff, job perks, lesser accountability). Find out how and why daily stresses can lead to exhaustion or depression and ways to help combat that. And to help you in that direction, we also guide you to destinations that are best suited for slowing down and for the truly stressed “I have no time for a holiday” person, we highlight restaurants in town where you can leave your troubles behind and enjoy a leisurely meal without worrying that the wait staff will spit in your face if you don’t vacate your seats 30 seconds after settling your bill.

Where we don’t slow down is in our travel feature on Mumbai, a city that rarely sleeps and is a real jewel in the subcontinent, not to mention the nerve centre of the film industry known as Bollywood.

There are two new sections I would like your feedback on: "Dear AsiaLIFE" and "Two of

Guy Gonyea Guy Gonyea is an award-winning photographer based in Vietnam for over six years. Originally from Phoenix, Arizona in the U.S., Guy first travelled to Vietnam in 2002 doing landscape photography and eventually moved to HCM City and set up Guy Gonyea Photography in 2004. Guy has received awards for his commercial work in London, Cannes & Singapore. His client list includes Samsung, Honda, Coca Cola and Vietnammobile.

Us". To start "Dear AsiaLIFE" we asked former managing editor Tom DiChristopher to dispatch us a postcard from New York City and tell us how he’s readjusting to life from Vietnam.

It was great to hear from him.

Expect to hear more tales of re-adjustments from newbies who’ve bid Vietnam adieu. In “Two Of Us” we shine the spotlight on a relationship between two people, fairly straightforward stuff here but prepare to be moved by our first ‘couple’, a teacher and her blind student.

If you’d like to recommend relationships of note, or send us a postcard, get in touch.

Finally, a special mention of Ny the elephant who we hope will find joy and love in her new home when she retires from the circus. No one deserves freedom and happiness more than her.

Except maybe me, for ridding myself of nasty habits and negative thoughts.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

012011 ISSUE49

Vinz Sebastian With just a stroke of his brush, Vinz Sebastian can transform you from ordinary to extraordinary.

Breezing through beauty school, Vinz lectured in an academy before joining The Body Shop as its Senior Make-Up Artist/Trainer. Being involved in countless shoots, spreads, bridal makeovers and runways, he has become one of the most sought after make-up artists. Vinz is also very active in running make up workshops.

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www.asialifeguide.com 1 asialife Cambodia

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

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volume 34

NEWS Ala Mezon Now Open Later

Ala Mezon will now open from 11.30 am until at least 1 am, serving lunch until 2.30 pm and a snack menu later in the afternoon.

Ala Mezon is located at 10 Chu Manh Trinh, District 1.

L’anmien Opens Café in Saigon

L’anmien Dining Café has opened in the AB Building at 76 Le Lai, District 1. A wide range of Western and Asian cuisine is available, as well as an extensive drinks menu. Throughout the launch period, the café will offer discounted prices.

Madame Tussauds Opens in Bangkok

Renowned museum Madame Tussauds has opened on the sixth floor of Siam Discovery in Bangkok. A fully interactive and unique experience, the attraction uses state of the art technology and dramatic backdrops to showcase a range of incredibly lifelike wax figures.

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The Bangkok museum features a royal room where wax figures of HRH Prince Mahitala Thibed Adulyadej Vikrom Phra Baroma Rajajanok and Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Boromarajajonani are displayed. And visitors can get up close and personal with more than 70 international and local celebrities, historic figures and world leaders like Princess Diana and Queen Elizabeth to arts and science personalities like Beethoven, Einstein and Sunthorn Phu. Visit madametussauds.com/ bangkok.

Citibank Introduces Travel Credit Card

Citibank has launched its PremierMiles Credit Card, the first travel credit card in Vietnam. Customers can earn miles, which can then be redeemed for flights with several airlines. What’s more, Premier Miles never expire. For more information and to find out other unique benefits of the Citibank PremierMiles Card visit citigroup. com or citi.com.

100th Day of School Celebration at ISSP

International School Saigon Pearl students will celebrate the school’s 100-day anniversary on January 28. The day will be filled with language, art, math and problem solving activities and competitions centred on the number 100. What’s more, students will donate food items to disadvantaged families. Visit issp. edu.vn.

BoConcept Opens First Showroom in Vietnam

Last month, well-known Danish furniture brand BoConcept opened its first showroom in Vietnam in the centre of District 1 at 68-70 Dong Du. Established in 1952 and with stores located worldwide, BoConcept stocks an array of classic and minimalist furniture and accessories.

Visit boconcept.vn

TEDx at RMIT

TED conferences are known worldwide for bringing leaders in technology entertainment and design onto a platform to

discuss "ideas worth spreading".

Audiences have the opportunity to listen to inspirational speeches that they would normally not have the chance to experience—videos from such events are all the rage on YouTube, for example. Independently held TED conferences are known as TEDx and just last year, 230 such events were held in 80 countries. Vietnam will host its second TEDx event (the first was in May) in HCM City sometime in January (the date will be announced soon on their website tedxsaigon.) This event's theme is on women and will include a live conference between Saigon and Washington DC. This event will feature speakers like Truong My Hoa, the former vice president of Vietnam, Merilyn Liddell, the president of RMIT, Nguyen Phuc Thuy Tien, a legal executive and My Tam, a performer and philanthropist. Seats are limited to a certain number to ensure a truly productive and engaging experience for participants and audience members. For more information email communications@tedxsaigon.com.

The Body Shop Launches Limited Edition Make Up Line

The Body Shop has collaborated with the London College of Fashion to produce a new cruelty-free make up and accessories line called Brush With Fashion. Available from early 2011 in must-have Spring colours, the collection includes products like Illuminating Face Base and Lightening Touch, Tailored Cheek Tint, brush on eye colour, Super Volume Mascara, and Hi-Shine Lip Treatment. The collection also features a handy Mini Brush Kit plus a selection of make-up bags and beauty tools. The Body Shop is located at 87 Mac Thi Buoi in District 1. Visit thebodyshop.com

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Steiff & Playmobil Creative Store Opens at the Crescent

This new interactive toy store, located at the Crescent in Phu My Hung, stocks two German brands—Steiff, a renowned teddy bear maker and Playmobil, a toy manufacturer. A large portion of the space is dedicated to a playground, giving kids the opportunity to play while parents peruse. And to celebrate its grand opening, throughout January each customer will be given a play voucher worth 50,000 VND. Steiff & Playmobil Creative Store can be found at14A-B Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, District 7.

Visit teddy4life.net

Crafty English

G L O B A L AS S E S S ME NT C E R T IF IC AT E

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Saigon-based fashion designer and artist Tracey Kociuruba will launch weekly craft classes for kids in Phu My Hung starting January 9 with fabric decoupage. Classes are organised a month in advance and those enrolled in the first lessons will walk away with snow globes (January 16), homemade playdough creatures (January 23) and felt finger puppets (January 30). Classes are US $25 per child for a two-hour session from 9 am till 11 am. Bookings must be made for the entire month and the cost includes all materials. An extra English-language component is included for non-native speakers.

Tracey will also offer private drawing classes for adults if interest is expressed. She can be contacted on 0904 688 374.

L’Apothiquaire Stocks New Lip Products

They’ll be safe in our hands Traditional French day spa L’Apothiquaire now stocks Sara Happ products including The Lip Scrub and The Lip Slip. The Lip Scrub (560,000 VND) eliminates dry, flaky skin leaving lips soft and moisturised and is available in almond, peppermint, cinnamon, cacao, brown sugar and vanilla bean. The Lip Slip (560,000 VND) is a hydrating balm made with crushed pearl and infused with sweet almond, jojoba and macadamia nut oils.

Emeraude Expands Halong Bay Opportunities

Our smallest patients - respecting their needs is our biggest concern Our three Full-time Pediatric Specialists are on hand for all your childrens medical needs • Primary pediatric emergency responses • Routine childhood development assessment • Post natal examinations • Immunisation advice • Vaccination • Nutritional counselling • New mother support • Pre-school check-ups Emeraude Classic Cruises will debut its new three-day/two-night itinerary this month after joining forces with Cat Ba Island-based travel company Slo Pony. The unique package mixes cruising aboard picturesque Halong Bay with an adventure programme that caters for all levels of activity. Options range from the relatively soft trek through Butterfly Valley on Cat Ba Island, to more intense kayaking and finally, climbing the Bay’s soaring limestone karsts. And with Halong Bay in the running for a position in the New 7 Wonders of Nature list, the views from up top the rock formations are simply stunning. Buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner is included plus a top-deck viewing of the acclaimed film Indochine. For cruise reservations, phone 3934 0888 or email sales@emeraude-cruises.com

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza: 34 Le Duan Street, District 1, HCMC For appointments and emergency care 24 hours: (84 8) 3822 7848

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Your health. Our care.

• Emergency Medicine • Medical Evacuations • General Practice • Internal Medicine • Pediatrics • Obstetrics & Gynecology • Orthopedic & Trauma Surgery • Cardiology • ENT • Tropical Medicine • Radiology • Imaging • Ambulance Service • In-house Laboratory • Acupuncture • First Aid Training • Child Birth Education • Saigon International Mother Baby Association • Medical Check-ups

Phnom Penh Events & Openings Download the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia at www.asialifeguide.com.

Tourism Takes Off

For the second time in history, the ASEAN Tourism Forum (ATF) will take place in Phnom Penh from January 15 to 21. The ATF focuses on a regional effort to promote tourism throughout the 10 member countries of the Associate of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). More than 1,600 delegates are expected to attend, including ASEAN ministers and their counterparts from China, Japan, South Korea, and India. Venues will include the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra, Diamond Island, NagaWorld, the Peace Palace, Royal Palace, Grand Phnom Penh Golf Club, and Raffles Hotel Le Royal. As the country is set to reach a new record of tourist arrivals in 2011, it is an apt time to highlight the manifold holiday opportunities in the Kingdom of Wonder.

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Starring Cambodia

If you happen to come across lights, cameras, and action in the streets of Phnom Penh, you’ve stumbled upon the filming of A Billion Star Hotel. Production commenced at the end of December and is expected to wrap on January 20. French director Quentin Clausin set out to portray the joy of living, as practiced the Cambodian way, through the storyline of a New York fashion photographer’s week spent in the Kingdom of Wonder. Produced by Cambodian film companies Express Films and 391 Films in cooperation with American production company Critical Density Media, the film’s cast and crew are nearly all Cambodian, a great achievement for the local film industry.

Details of the grand premier in Phnom Penh will be announced at a future date.

A Tribute to the Masters

Next month will see a musical tribute to the grand masters of Cambodian music at the Bayon Temple in the Angkor complex.

Led by teenage soprano bosbaPANH, a host of Cambodian and international performers will put on a festival of music and dance including Cambodian ballads, jazz and Ramayana dance on Febuary 25 and 26. The first night will feature a gourmet dinner prepared by leading Cambodian chef Luu Meng (US $80 to $100). Tickets for the second night are US $20. Tickets are available from Monument Books and Lucky Stores in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, from the McDermott Galleries in Siem Reap, and from T&C Restaurant, CafĂŠ Sentiment and Malis and Yi Sang Restaurants in Phnom Penh. Visit bosbapanh.com.

Giant Puppet Project

Preparations are underway for this year’s Giant Puppet Project Parade, which will take place on Febuary 19 in Siem Reap.

The parade is a massive event involving up to 600 children from local NGOs in and around Cambodia’s major tourist town.

Under guidance from artists from the United Kindom and Phare Ponleu Seplak in Battambang the children construct the puppets. The fifth annual parade will feature giant animals, insects and people. Themes are based on educational, cultural or ecological ideas such as road safety, endangered species, hygiene and environmental awareness. The Parade is an entirely non-profit event, and anyone wishing to support it or visiting the workshops can do so by contacting info@giantpuppetproject.com.

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EVENTS Vietnam & Australia Concert

To celebrate Australia Day, the Australian Government has organised a special concert at the Conservatory of Music. The performance will take place on January 20 and will feature successful Australian-Vietnamese pianist Van Anh and Australian Idol Thanh Bui. Talented local performers Luu Hong Quang—who plays the piano—and Diva Hong Nhung will take to the stage, too. For tickets please contact Ms Hang at 3521 8100 or email chau-thuy.hang@ dfat.gov.au.

Kiteboard Tour Asia Lands in Mui Ne The Kiteboard Tour Asia is set to return to Mui Ne again from January 12 to 16. Held on the beach in front of Sankara, the competition

Farmer’s Market at Nutrifort welcomes kiteboarders of all levels to enter. The course racing and freestyle entry fees are US $50 each. Kiteboarding makes for great spectator sport, too, so be sure to snag a prime position on the sand. Visit kiteboardtour.asia/.

On January 15 and 16 from 9 am to 3 pm, a farmer’s market will be held at Nutrifort Fitness (34 Nguyen Dang Giai, District 2).

Organic produce will be available for purchase as well as ecofriendly products, stationery, jewellery, clothing and accessories.

For details call 3744 6675.

asialife HCMC 11

dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Cool Reads It is billed as the biggest literary event in Asia and for its seventh year, the Jaipur Literary Festival is unlikely to fail on its promise of attracting bigwigs in literature. This year’s line up includes Orhan Pamuk, JM Coetzee, Kiran Desai, Ruskin Bond, Richard Ford, Jay McInerney, Mohsin Hamid, Jung Chang and Candace Bushnell (hey, Sex and the City is literature). The five-day event—just show up if you are in the neighbourhood January 21 to 25, it’s free—isn’t just boring literary events or roundtable discussions featuring writers waxing eloquently about each other—there’s music, poetry and film screenings too. It explains why former Vanity Fair editor and now editor of The Daily Beast Tina Brown described it as the “greatest literary show on earth”. jaipurliteraturefestival.org

Ships Ahoy Now in its eighth year, the Phuket International Boat Show (PIMEX) is considered the largest in-water boat show in the region and plans to attract more visitors during the three-day event, January 6 to 9. The event brings together the biggest names in the region’s marine industry and provides a good platform for boat-makers— from 20 feet to over 100 feet—and buyers. phuketboatshow.com

New Year, Hong Kong Style If you’ve not planned your Tet holiday, consider Hong Kong.

The bustling city that never sleeps is actually a great destination for Chinese New Year where a night parade on Tsim Sha Tsui East in Kowloon hosts some of the island’s best performers. The fireworks over Victoria Harbour make for some of the most beautiful sights you’ll see in Asia. The following day sees other colourful floats with performers, dancers and street musicians accompanying them through the district.

The city is at its festive best during these holidays. discoverhongkong.com

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Soaring Eagles Fans of the Eagles—the beloved band that made “Hotel California”, “Desperado”, “Take It Easy”, “One Of These Nights” and “Heartache Tonight”, must sings at karaoke— will be touring Southeast Asia providing you with a chance to see them in Singapore (February 24) or Hong Kong (March 18). Tickets for the former venue are priced between S $168 to S $499 while Hong Kong ticket prices start from HK $588 to HK $2,088. For more information on online bookings visit lushington.com

Yogic Treats

Yogis of all levels are bound to find serenity at a five-day retreat at the Tamarind Springs Yoga Retreat in Koh Samui in Thailand. The programme offers Hatha and Kundalini yoga and meditation along with a diet regimen that is healthy and pure as well as massages at a day spa. Each person is given a consultation with the retreat leader followed by five days of yoga, sun salutations, meditations, a visit to a herbal steam cave, customised massages and some entertainment too—not all work and no play. Because the retreat wants to keep itself small, it is limited to 12 persons so it is best to book well in advance and secure yourself a spot. Prices start at $2,290 for single occupancy or $2,090 for sharing. tamarindsprings.com

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The man behind An Phu Neighbours Google Group shares his insight on the online community he is Webmaster of.

Photos by Ho Quang.

Tell us about the history of the APN Neighbours group? What prompted you to become its Webmaster?

The group was started by An Phu expat residents in August 2007. I inherited it after volunteering to become its Webmaster as one of the founders was leaving. The list was originally much more focused on the local An Phu neighbourhood. When I took over there were 700 membersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there are now more than 2,300 from all over the city.

I am a big believer in communities and the importance of helping others. There are very few ways to bring expat communities together, and I hope APN helps to do just that.

Are you surprised by its popularity?

I am surprised. I think part of its success is the low barrier to entry and the simplicity of a mailing list format. I often think whether this is the best format, and for now I really can't think of anything that would work better.

How has your editorial (posting) policy evolved? Do you struggle with what you can or not allow to be posted? Recently, for example, animal sales were banned but information on outlet sales is available.

How, and where, do you draw a line?

I've tried not to make too many rules, but it's becoming harder and harder as the number of messages increases.

I generally frown on advertising for businesses. If you're making money, you can factor in the cost of advertising in a publication like AsiaLIFE. Of course there are exceptions.

For restaurant openings, clothing sales, and events, I think about how else they might inform people, and whether the community will be interested.

I try to allow informative messages while frowning on marketing, but it is a hard balance.

And I don't have the time or a team to review all messages, so things slip through that I

wouldn't allow if I was actually making a decision.

I have my own strong values, but I did consult the community about the animal breeders' ban.

They were overwhelmingly on the side of banning breeders. At least one other HCM City online community had already taken the lead (ha).

In the end, the community only works when most members agree with most of my decisions. If enough people disagree the community will fracture.

What, in the time you have monitored APN, have you learned about the neighbours?

Are there types in the online community that you can labelâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the bored housewife, the know it all etc?

There is incredible diversity among the neighbours. They do tend to resist classification.

There are definitely some people with too much time on their hands and there are also clearly some people who are finding expat life extremely challenging. Also, some people don't seem to realise that the expat community is quite small, and they burn bridges in spectacular ways by writing unfair or inappropriate content. I'm always amazed at what people will write on APN in front of an audience of over 2,000 neighbours when I'm sure they wouldn't stand up in a theatre and say the same things.

Describe the funniest/most ridiculous exchange between neighbours...

There are certainly some ridiculous opinionated ones. The most memorable for me began with an innocent question from one home schooling parent looking for other home schooling parents. The first response was a late-night alcohol-induced rant against home schooling and it just deteriorated from there with back and forth arguments on the pros and cons of home schooling with many people sharing their strongly held opinions. By the end of the 'debate' I even had one neighbour accusing me of being a bad parent for spending time answering their emails rather than being with my children (I'm a stay-at-home dad). When

everything was finally calm it was revealed that the original poster had a child with special needs, so it wasn't even a question of schooling preferences.

Do you have any plans to venture into new neighbourhoods?

If I was going to change the approach, I would look for a better way to deal with the volume of messages rather than splitting the city up geographically into 'new neighbourhoods'. Perhaps a 'market' list for buying and selling, for example.

Some new neighbourhood lists (PhuMyHungNeighbours, SaigonPearlNeighbors, etc) have been started by other people in the last year, but what I often see is the same message being posted to all the lists.

Are there any discussions/incidents online which illustrate "expats behaving badly?"

The occasional racism, or xenophobia, of some expats drives me crazy.

I really like Vietnam. I've lived here long enough to see a lot of people come and go.

I'm sure it's a pretty hard place to live if you don't want to be here but it's always important to remember that bad experiences are about individuals or situations, not about Vietnam, and they can happen anywhere, in any country.

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Nam Phan

Street Smart:

Vo Van Tan, District 3 Stretching between Hai Ba Trung and Cao Thang in District 3, Vo Van Tan is home to countless Vietnamese restaurants; some with histories spanning decades. Beth Young investigates with help from Hanh Nguyen. Photos by Alex Belikov.

War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan The War Remnants Museum offers an insight into the American War and the many atrocities that were committed. Outside, various war craft are assembled and inside photographs are displayed, many graphic, depicting the pain and suffering that unfolded throughout. Upstairs, a video plays on a loop and mostly describes the war’s aftermath; the effect of Agent Orange features heavily. A visit is essential for anyone touring 16 asialife HCMC

HCM City and especially for expatriates living here.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan khaisilkcorp.com Another Khai Silk enterprise, Nam Pham specialises in authentic Vietnamese-style cuisine with a keen focus on seafood.

It’s an imposing four-storey structure painted pale yellow with teak shutters on the outside and opulent furnishings inside. A timber staircase winds all the way up and each floor is

gorgeous in its own right. Oriental rugs adorn the slate-grey floors and terracotta bowls are piled atop each other to create a uniquely Asian feel.

Hu Tieu 46/102 Vo Van Tan Miss Hoang has been serving up piping hot bowls of hu tieu—Chinese rice noodle soup with pork and seafood—for two decades. Her tiny restaurant scales a wall down an alley off Vo Van Tan and foldout stainless steel tables and red plastic

stools are the décor of choice.

According to Miss Hoang the secret to tasty hu tieu is all in the measurements: too much water and the broth loses its concentration. A bowl goes for 27,000 VND. Open 6 am to 1 pm and 3 pm till late.

Mercury Café 65 Vo Van Tan Mercury Café is an absolute tack-fest. Still, it’s a popular haunt for young Vietnamese— males especially—who fill the air with cigarette smoke and

Hu Tieu

Pho Le

Mercury Café

Bam Skate Shop

chatter. A fake rock wall with attached waterfall features prominently as do neon-coloured fairy lights. Up and coming Vietnamese singers like Bao Thy, Quang Vinh and Dong Nhi perform here often, as well. However, it’s well worth a visit just to check out the manager—a man who rocks what is surely the slickest mullet in town.

Bam Skate Shop 228 Vo Van Tan bamskateshop.com.vn Bam stocks all that’s hip in the skating scene: streetwear for men and women, funky fluorescent hi-top sneakers and, of course, skateboards. All the paraphernalia needed to keep the nifty mode of transport maintained and rolling is available, too. Bam Skate Shop is also located at 174 Bui Vien, District 1.

Pho Le 303-305 Vo Van Tan Pho Le has been ladling beef pho for more than two decades and has earned a reputation as

one of the best joints in HCM City. And it’s a plaudit owner Miss Le agrees with fully. What makes her noodle soup so good?

It’s all her, she says. According to the lady herself, she’s a darn good cook and what’s more, doesn’t scrimp on ingredients.

Try a bowl for 35,000 to 40,000 VND.

Bam Skate Shop

Nam Phan

Marc 347 Vo Van Tan marc.com.vn Marc stocks adorable designs for women including bright summer dresses that begin at about 200,000 VND. Colourful printed fabric is a favourite of the chain store, whose designs are popular among young Vietnamese girls. The cuts are great and there’s a vast array of cute blouses on offer, too.

Lien Hua 381 Vo Van Tan Here, Phnom Penh-style hu tieu is served. Hailing originally from China, then Cambodia, the Vietnamese embraced the dish, tweaked it slightly and asialife HCMC 17

then called it their own. The owners of Lien Hua brought their own recipe with them from Cambodia about 40 years ago.

Hu tieu nam vang is hearty, with quail eggs, chilli and pungent minced garlic added to the fragrant pork and seafood broth.

The lack of fish sauce, which is added to almost every meal in Vietnam, makes this dish unique. A serve costs between 55,000 to 70,000 VND.

Desino 416 Vo Van Tan desino.it A luxurious emporium selling all things leather, Desino stocks elegant bags, wallets and accessories. The attention to detail and craftsmanship is apparent and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no doubting the Italian brand uses top-quality materials: the scent of leather fills the air completely.

Desino

Desino

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FESTIVE PACKAGE US$ 196++/ night for Garden View Room US$ 249++/ night for Superior Seaview Room US$ 300++/ night for Deluxe Seaview Room US$ 353++/ night for Deluxe Beachfront Room US$ 377++/ night for Ana Mandara Suite (It is subject of 5% service charge and 10% tax)

. . . . .

Including: 1 night stay at Evason Ana Mandara Daily Breakfast Buffet Refreshing welcome drink & fruit basket Round trip shuttle Bus Airport transfers Free internet facilities

... .

Terms & Conditions:

Stay validity from 16 Jan 2011 to 28 Feb 2011 Based on twin share and minimum 2 nights Applicable for Vietnamese nationals, Expatriates & Asian residents only Surcharge US$ 50++ per night on 03-08 Feb 2011 Tel: +84 58 3 524 705 - Fax: +84 58 3 524 704 Email: reservations-nhatrang@sixsenses.com

O n t h e Fa c e o f I t Photos by Miguel Lopez

Miguel Lopez’s portraits—taken during the course of his travels within Vietnam, Malaysia and Thailand—vividly capture the universality of the human spirit in all its goodness. “Photography is for me all about people,” he says. “When you are a long way from home on travel assignments, it is impossible not to engage with the human being, his/her expressions, looks, behaviours. It kind of reminds me that we are here just for a little while, that every photograph keeps the human alive forever, perhaps it is the only way to be immortal.”

On these pages, Lopez captured images that he wanted immortalised: of children who followed him around in a narrow street behind Cholon market, of travellers in Bangkok’s train station, of rickshaw drivers in Malacca, of people in camps outside Cu Chi. All these “ordinary people” had faces that told stories of their hardships and hope for the future—and they smiled throughout it all, which is how they will always be remembered.

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By M. Khan. Photos by Fred Wissink.

No matter what language it is told in, or how long the tale, in the end, the tortoise always wins the race.

We are all rational educated adults who are up to date on information on how stress affects our bodies and mental well-being. We are equally aware that we are hostage to the technological gadgets that have been created for our convenience and to make us more efficient and effective workers, but we know that our reliance on them causes much havoc.

We know we need to slow down in this fast paced life—and we’re not talking about a weekly trip to our favourite salon or a night’s getaway to the beach. We’re talking about incorporating a slower paced lifestyle into our lives so that we can actually enjoy it, warts and all.

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Gillian (names changed), 37, mother of two finds herself constantly tired, despite her daily workouts at the gym, twice a week swims and yoga once a week. “I’m a stayat-home mother with a busier life than when I was working and had no help in Sydney.”

Russell, thirtysomething, works in sales and has a busy social life, which he can’t seem to extract himself from—and he knows he has to, “for the sake of my liver”, he says with a chuckle.

Sarah says she is always on the go, despite seemingly easier work hours as a teacher and two-day weekend. “I have a lot more work-stuff to do and because I don’t want to turn into a homebody, I find myself stretched too thin socially.”

Andrew, 26, a recent resident of Saigon and banker, finds himself in front of the TV most nights of the week, watching the latest episodes of his favourite shows, a beer and take-away his sources of solace and comfort—because he’s just too exhausted.

There are scores of similar stories echoing the same sentiment: busy lives depleting peoples’ energy levels and/or increasing stress and frustration. These stories occur every day, in every city, including HCM City and break many myths associated with the notion that life in Southeast Asia is an easier one, relatively stress free given the comforts of household help and cheaper cost of living.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

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That is what long-time expat and general director of Family Medical Practice Dr Rafi Kot says. Everyone is smart enough to understand the importance of slowing down but realising it is difficult. He cites an example of spontaneous activity, and how they often tend to leave lasting impressions. “Here, it’s not so easy to get up and go somewhere or do something.”

There are many challenges to living in a foreign country, from learning new languages and social mores to simpler tasks like adjusting to traffic. However, Dr Kot believes HCM City throws greater challenges than for example, Hanoi nationally and even Phnom Penh and Bangkok regionally, because of its lack of space—and therefore places to escape to. (Despite its cosmopolitan nature, Bangkok has many public parks he says.)

“One of the easiest ways to slow down,” he says, “is to walk your dog, but can one do that in a leisurely manner here? Hanoi is a bustling cosmopolitan but it has parks and its lakes bring serenity; I can’t advise patients to go for a walk in the park here so am forced to tell them to get away for a weekend—a change of environment usually does wonders for a short period. And I don’t mean going away to Phan Thiet because if your experience is going to be affected by complaints of the ride there and back or the traffic en route, it defeats the purpose of getting away.

I advise people to look into low-cost carriers

and get away to Hong Kong or a place that is opposite of here [to wind down].”

Inevitably, stress takes a toll on one’s body. Ailments can take the shape of sleeping disorders, digestive issues, mild to chronic pains, respiratory problems (brought on by air pollution) to more serious diseases.

In the good news, despite the seemingly psychosomatic-related ailments present, people in Vietnam aren’t popping muscle relaxants, sleeping pills or pills meant for psychiatric issues. Dr Kot adds that the drug manufacturing company for one such popular drug in the west recalled its product because there was no market here.

In a world where the number of drugs being created in the mental health industry is rising, this is certainly cheer-worthy.

As is peoples’ desire to take time out for themselves, to care for their minds and bodies—as evidenced, for example, by more yoga options in the city. Yoga is a no-brainer example of slow activity that’s good for your body and mind. Its meditative aspect discourages mind-wandering and/or idleness, which are common side effects of busy lives dominated by technology or addiction to social media.

INDULGE To really pause, indulge in a half-day relaxation package at traditional French day spa L’Apothiquaire. A welcome pot of their organic herbal tea is served upon arrival, after which a foot pressure treatment, full body massage and personalised facial is administered. Visit lapothiquaire.com.

And if you’re looking to loosen knots and ease pain, give the talented Hieu at Golden Hands Health and Beauty Centre in An Phu a try. Specialising in osteopathy and Thai massage, Hieu is a trained masseuse with 18 years experience. A half-hour session goes for 250,000 VND. Visit goldenhandsvn.com.

LISTEN In an era of bite-sized music downloads and MP3 players, listening to music has become mostly a soundtrack for us while we do other things. When was the last time you actually sat down and listened to an entire album? Just listened? Take the chance to reacquaint yourself with the mind-boggling inventiveness of Sgt. Pepper’s, the majestic soundscapes of Dark Side of the Moon, or the restless energy of Exile on Main Street. Dig out your old CDs (if you still have them; or better yet, the vinyl), sit in the beanbag, plug in the earphones and enjoy.

Yoga Living Michelle Lloyd has been teaching yoga for three years and talks about its therapeutic values and how this ancient, gentle exercise, asialife HCMC 27

which incorporates meditation, is essentially about slowing down. On a personal level, she has seen its benefits on herself, from when she began practicing to teaching it. “It has had a huge impact on my relationships and I find myself able to interact with people better; I’m not so quick to react, but rather pause, breathe and respond,” she says citing one example, adding that watching it have a beneficial impact on her students brings her much joy. “I have seen it transform people in a very positive manner. They may come in to practice yoga because they want to lose weight but over time they find that the practice provides a much more profound and wholesome effect on their physical, spiritual and mental health. This is what keeps them coming back to their practice.”

I ask whether the mushrooming of yoga

WALK Getting off the motorbike or out of the taxi and using some leg power has numerous advantages. Apart from the obvious health benefits, taking the time to walk the streets will give you a new perspective on the city. Driving in HCM City requires a lot of concentration, so it is naturally difficult to really take in your surroundings. All those hidden gems, the great café or quirky boutique, you miss while speeding by will make themselves known. Taking the time to stop and chat means you might also get to know your neighbours a little better.

COOK The ‘slow’ movement originated around the idea of taking time to prepare and eat quality food. It sounds great in theory, but being time poor is the very problem we struggle to overcome. The answer is simple: the stockpot, crockpot or slow cooker as it is variously known, is widely available and can help you create delicious, slowcooked meals without the arduous preparation. Put the ingredients in the pot in the morning and when you come home from work dinner is ready to serve. Countless recipes are available online at sites such as slowandsimple.com.

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outlets in HCM City is indicative of a demand for more places where people can go to switch gears. She thinks so and adds that such spaces encourage one to “turn down the volume of your internal dialogue, chatter and tune into the breath.” She stresses that yoga allows people to connect with themselves for the time they practice it which in turns gives them a moment’s of silence, peace—“whether that moment is five minutes or the entire yoga session,” she adds. “Coming to a studio to practice provides the environment where people can learn how to slow down and enjoy peace of mind, methods which can be taken with them when they leave the yoga mat and go about their daily lives. Bringing awareness to your breath throughout the day, five minutes at your desk, for a taxi ride, whatever... That also is a huge part of the yoga practice.”

Slow Food, Slow Pleasure The importance of eating well—and slowly— cannot be stressed enough. Again, it is a fact we are all too aware of but find difficult to implement. While Vietnam may not be beset by the scourge of fast food, or reliance on processed convenience food, and meals are fairly healthy (and for some of lucky ones, prepared by staff) slow food isn’t just about a meal that is leisurely prepared. The slow food movement began in 1989 by Falco Portinari as a reaction to fast food and the damages it would cause to the body and eating culture.

He propagates the ideology that taste must be developed, not denigrated as is wont to happen on reliance to fast food. “We are enslaved by speed and have all succumbed to the same insidious virus: Fast Life, which disrupts our habits, pervades the privacy of our homes and forces us to eat fast foods,” he writes on his website.

Granted that eating fresh healthy food, which is fairly in abundance here in its fruit

READ Instead of turning on the idiot box, or trawling the Internet for hours on end, find a good book. Relaxing and enjoyable, reading is a sure-fire way to slow down. The accusation that HCM City has little to offer in the way of top-quality reading material is no excuse. Borrow from a friend whose returned from a trip home, invest in a WiFi-powered Kindle or even nip down to the backpacker quarter for a cheap book.

Otherwise, visit Amazon and have the latest titles delivered to your door within three weeks.

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and vegetables, is paramount but so is eating it in a leisurely manner, on the table (not in front of the TV), amongst friends and family. Slow eating (i.e. chewing longer) encourages better digestion. It also gives moment to pause and reflect, or enjoy instead of the frenzy that eating in a rushed manner while thinking of the task(s) ahead.

Studies have also shown that eating slowly can lead to weight loss without you doing anything—in one study it stated that you could lose up to 20 pounds a year without altering your diet or exercise regimen by eating slowly as it takes 20 minutes for the brain to recognise that it’s full.

The pleasures of slow dining are catching on with the resurgence of the slow cooker, and contrary to popular opinion in the 1970s, they do not strip food of flavour. A recent article in the Guardian talked about there being 864 titles on Amazon’s site dedicated to recipes for slow cookers.

Nice and Slow Joanne, 30-something, talks about how much of a difference daily dinner with the family, gadget free, on the table with proper china and silverware, has made on their relationship. “My husband and I actually know what is going on in our teenagers’ lives.

It’s not just about their activities or everyone’s social lives and who needs the driver when; we really do talk over the table about holidays we want to take, news back home and even gossip about the neighbours,” she says with a laugh, adding that sometimes the obvious solution (i.e. family dinner) can evade you.

William Shakespeare summed it up well when he wrote: “Wisely, and slow. They stumble that run fast.” As we usher in 2011, and make notes about resolutions we hope not to break, take a moment to reflect on how you can incorporate slow into your life— and how it will enhance your life.

PLAY Skip the computer games, put that I-Phone away and enough with Plants verse Zombies. Instead gather a group of friends for a good old-fashioned board game tournament. Whether it be Scrabble, Cluedo or Monopoly, playing board games forces social interaction: great conversation and laughs are sure to be had. Add nibbles and drinks and it’s a great formula for a party. Head to Hideaway Café on Pham Ngoc Thach in District 3 to borrow from their great selection or buy your own for cheap at any one of the Fahasa outlets located in the city.

LEARN Take some time out to learn a new skill. Embrace your surroundings and give speaking the local language a go. Lessons are offered at the University of Social Sciences and Humanities at 10-12 Dinh Tien Hoang in District 1. Difficult, yes, but the feeling of accomplishment is well worth mastering the tricky pronunciation and pesky words beginning with “ng”.

Exercise both body and mind with Tai Chi or Qi Gong. Both are ancient Chinese methods of harnessing energy and can elicit startling results: an increased sense of relaxation is just the beginning. Contact the HCM City Qi Gong Club at eckhartdutz@ mac.com for information about their free courses. Tai Chi sessions are held in most public parks across HCM City.

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AsiaLIFE recommends properties where slowing down is on the menu.

Soneva Kiri, Thailand Thailand is blessed by stunning beaches, many of which regularly feature in the top ten categories of publications worldwide. But the remoteness of the locale of the Soneva Kiri by Six Senses is seemingly unrivalled. Guests are flown on the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s airplane from Bangkok to the property on the island of Koh Kood where unspoiled beaches and a sense of absolute nothingness await. Sure, one can take in the beauty of the surroundings by walking around the island but for the more restless, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of water sports, including diving on hand. Anyone familiar with the Six Senses knows that their spas are rather heavenly so this is a great place to truly unwind and rejuvenate without any threat of being awoken by noise. sixsenses.com/soneva-kiri

Mango Bay, Phu Quoc Nestled in the remote environs of Phu Quoc Island, Mango Bay prides itself on being an eco-conscious property committed to working with island locals to preserve the community. Built in 2004, the tropical property has stunning views of the bay, a restaurant that serves up great meals and the serenity that is required for a true 'switch off' experience. Simple cottages, complete with four-poster beds and mosquito netting, outdoor showers and stone paths leading up to them aid in creating an ambience of old-fashioned resorts; with none of the false luxe trappings found in other 'fancier' places. Here, one can while away the hours in the lush gardens, get a massage on the beach, or for some form of activity, take a boat ride around the fishing village. mangobayresort.com 32 asialife HCMC

Kamu Lodge, Laos This eco-tourist resort defines the term rather well. It is accessible by a three-hour boat journey from Luang Prabang—and that is the only way one can get there; no short cuts and once here, no running away to any bright lights, big city. But judging from the pictures that speak of lush green, scenic surroundings and only the sounds that nature have to offer, who would want to leave? Built in 2009, the Lodge consists of 20 traditional canvas roof tents, which are quite plush inside—and travellers rave about the menu on offer. While the emphasis is on pure relaxation, there are activities like rice planting and even gold panning (January to June) along with interacting with the locals to keep you ‘busy’. kamulodge.com

Terres Rouge Lodge, Cambodia The hotel probably received its greatest boost when Time magazine said it had “the best bar in the middle of nowhere.” But Terres Rouge has more than just its bar, Le Jovial Jarai. Located in the mountainous Ratanakiri, the hotel, which used to be a former provincial governor's lakeside home, is owned by a former French paratrooper who has taken advantage of the location’s remoteness and surroundings and created a space that promises relaxation, without the danger of one getting cabin fever. The hotel’s interiors deserve a special mention—stunning antique furnishings, open-style Balinese bathrooms—give the feeling that one has stepped back in time when life was sans any of the modern trappings that enslave today. One can hike, kayak or indulge in other sporting activities nearby but if it’s slices of serenity you’re after, you won’t find it elsewhere. (Photo

by Nathan Horton.) ratanakiri-lodge.com

Mekong Pandaw Cruise, Cambodia to Vietnam

Nothing says slow like a riverboat journey down the Mekong River.

And if you’re on the Pandaw ships which are built like colonial river steamers, then it’s also a feeling of being stuck in a time warp— except, of course, all the amenities are luxe. Large spacious rooms in teak and brass furnishings and scrumptious meals enhance the journey, which can literally be spent just watching the environs go by, metamorphosing along the route. The four day, three night cruise from Saigon to Phnom Penh includes brief stop overs for touristy things—visiting a floating market, a tour of Margerite Duras’ lover’s home to name two examples—but for those seeking to remain as close to nature as possible, with the sounds of the water to soothe the nerves, nothing will stop you from staying aboard and daydreaming your time away. (Photos by John Mc Dermott.) pandaw.com

Dalat Palace, Dalat Stating the obvious always has a lame sound to it but in certain instances, one needs to do it in case the obvious has been relegated to the back of the mind in the frenzy of all that is upcoming and new. But a classic is a classic and the Dalat Palace (formerly Sofitel Dalat) is one example of an obvious property one can escape to. For starters, it is old world charm personified; its ambience too seems steeped in history. Then there’s Dalat itself, green and serene, it is an ideal destination to escape the heat of HCM City—the thrill of fireplaces in the rooms are enough to get you planning your next trip. With little to do but go for walks to take in the scenery of the mountains or Xuan Huong Lake, this is an idyllic locale in which to gather thoughts and introspect—or stuff yourself silly and sleep till noon. dalatpalace.vn asialife HCMC 33

EAT, PROCRASTINATE, LOVE AsiaLIFE rounds up the finer restaurants where no one is in a hurry to throw you out. Photos by Ho Quang and Fred Wissink.

BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Located on the Saigon River, the BoatHouse drinks in prime waterfront views. Umbrella-shaded tables are spread across the large outdoor deck and a small indoor dining room fronts the popular venue. Live music is often hosted here and a boat service runs across the river for those interested, too. Remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients are served up, as well. Favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips and matched with a glass of vino from the vast collection are best-enjoyed late afternoon as the sun sets.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Another riverfront restaurant, The Deck boasts a sleek minimalist dining space and bar. With the comfortable, cushioned rattan sofas and chairs that occupy the wide timber verandah and an unadulterated view of the foliage-covered island across the way, The Deck feels far removed from HCM Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s frantic pace.

What's more the retractable roof combats rainy-season downpours. Sitting inside doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t restrict the view at all, thanks to total glass frontage. The menu is PanAsian with a focus on seafood and the cocktails are generous and delicious.

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La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 With a history spanning 15 years, La Camargue is one of Saigonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s preeminent fine dining restaurants.

Serving classic Continental cuisine in a luxuriously refurbished French colonial villa tucked away down an alley off busy Hai Ba Trung, it is a must-visit. The villa is divided into several areas: a cozy interior on garden level, the spacious lounge bar and an airy terrace and balcony on the first floor. This gives diners the option to move about and enjoy the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniquely quaint atmosphere. And with its extensive wine list it's easy to while away an evening at La Camargue.

New York Steakhouse and Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3823 7373 The interior of this restaurant is an Art-Deco masterpiece and reason enough to linger over your meal. Sliding into one of the padded booths is to step back into early 20th century New York. The quality of the steaks is second to none and the extensive wine list invites you to linger a little longer and enjoy another glass. The downstairs wine bar means you can pop in just for a drink or adjourn there after your dinner.

There is also a small cigar room with a selection of Cuban cigars.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 Straddling Hai Ba Trung and Lam Son Square, Pacharan is a beautifully designed four-floor tapas restaurant and bar. Serving superb, authentic Spanish fare, wine exclusively from Spain and Sangria by the jug, the vibe is completely Mediterranean. Polished copper and dark wood completes the ambience.

The ground floor is a deli serving Spanish snacks, pastries and coffee; the middle two levels house the restaurant. Up top, the penthouse bar affords a great view of downtown and the lounge-style atmosphere is conducive to a relaxing drink among friends.

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Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3827 5198 Sandals brings the essence of the gorgeous Sailing Club in Mui Ne and Nha Trang to downtown HCM City.

The three-flour space has subtle blonde wood accents and cozy seating throughout and is lit in places with flickering tea candles. The upstairs dining area slash rooftop terrace bar looks out over the street below and epitomises casual elegance and the menu—mostly seafood—is inspired and surprising value for money.

Cocktails here are a must-try, especially the passionfruit margaritas. They alone promise a long night at Sandals.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 A class act in every respect, Skewers’ rustic Mediterranean feel provides a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of HCM City. Likewise, the traditional Mediterranean food is simple and hearty. The wine list is truly epic with dozens of wines from around the world. One of the best reasons to spend a few hours here is the magnificent cigar room on the second floor.

The expansive space is filled with leather sofas and armchairs, a wide choice of cigars, and what would have to be one of the most impressive selections of whiskeys in the city.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Duoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 63 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 3519 4416 This restaurant, located at the end of an alley in District 1 (and now with another location in An Phu), is like a black hole for time. Step inside the dimly-lit rooms decorated with a Middle Eastern flourish and a whole evening can slide by in a haze of apple-scented smoke from the hookah pipe. The upstairs dining room has comfortable and sturdy seating including some tables with lounges and cushions on which you can recline after having your fill of the Moroccan-inspired food.

Downstairs is a bar and pleasant courtyard area out front of the restaurant. Warda is lively, relaxed and enticing all in one.

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SOFTBALL BY SUNDAYS

The Saigon International Softball League played their first overseas tournament in Bangkok recently and exceeded all expectations considering their relatively short history.

By Beth Young. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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Every Sunday a group of expatriates gather at the Taipei School in Phu My Hung to play softball. What began about five years ago as a casual pick-up squad at RMIT has now evolved into a fullyfledged league, its six teams comprised of players hailing from across the globe.

Together the Asian Tigers, Lipton Spirits and Reds— teams with mostly Western members—plus the Saigon All Stars, who represent Japan, and two Taiwanese sides—the Tornadoes and another from Binh Duong—are looking to grow the sport’s following in Vietnam.

And while their official his-

tory as a legitimate outfit spans only two years, the Saigon International Softball League impressed the region recently at a tournament in Bangkok.

There, they displayed not only their prowess on the field, but a positive attitude and a level of sportsmanship that spectators, umpires and competitors alike commended.

An established competition since the early '90s, the Bangkok International Softball Tournament lures teams from Asia and the Middle East, plus seasoned players from as far afield as the United States. The winners of 2010’s three-day event, the Fatboys, even had professional softballer Jeff Hall

“Their games are about getting together on Sundays, a bat in one hand and a beer in another.”

on their side—an athlete with a line of bats named after him.

Still, the Sundays—as they named themselves to pay homage to their weekly matches—made it right up until the end. Coincidentally, the last day, and the tournament’s decider, was a Sunday. As Rob Flynn, the Lipton Spirits’ captain says with a laugh, “we would’ve had to change our name to the Saigon Saturdays if we didn’t make it through”.

Luckily, they did; quite an achievement considering 16 teams were vying to fill the six available slots.

Not expecting to get so far, most players only packed two uniforms, Tiger Jeff Thrash

included. After winning three games on the second day and with a pass to the third, he says sniff tests had to be employed all round. “It was a matter of, which one smells better?” he says.

Now that the league knows they have what it takes to compete on an international stage, they’re looking forward to participating in other tournaments. Next on the agenda is a tour to Jakarta in May. The real dream, though, according to both Flynn and Asian Tigers’ captain Matt King, is to play host. A lack of facilities, however, and difficulties in obtaining visas for visitors, means that for

the moment, at least, that goal will remain just out of reach. A somewhat more attainable ambition, they say, is to encourage Vietnamese to embrace the game. Already, they’ve trained one team of RMIT students named the Royals. Currently, they’re working towards representing the nation by playing baseball and even have Olympic ambitions, but King says when they first started playing “they were terrible”.

By the end of their first season, though, they had beaten every single team on the squad at least once.

The Royals are a shining example of softball’s reach and the relative ease in which new-

comers can grasp the game.

King warns that while it’s easier to pick up than hard-hitting baseball, for example, practice is needed to master crucial techniques. “You can’t expect to walk in and be a star.”

Certainly, there is a degree of competitiveness in the league, but more than anything their games are about getting together on Sundays, a bat in one hand and a beer in another. Thrash sums up the sport’s appeal best: “It’s something to look forward to at the end of the week. It’s a release.”

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Jodie Eastwood uses a form of healing that taps into the universeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s energy. Muna Khan gives it a go.

Photos by Huynh Ho Quang.

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I am somewhat apprehensive about the theta session I am due to have, despite healer Jodie Eastwood’s calm and friendly persona. She’s putting me at ease as we prepare for the session but having read up on theta healing and its claims of instant cures, there’s the skeptical part of me that’s saying run.

Theta healing combines quantum physics and metaphysics with prayer to the universe’s energy. It is a process of changing one’s subconscious belief system by altering the state of consciousness. The healing occurs in the theta brainwave (this is where the brain’s activity slows from active beta waves to theta levels) and the healer enters the subconscious mind to “fix” or shift the problems they believe are buried deep.

Theta healing supports four levels of belief explains Eastwood. First, core beliefs that we learn from our parents. Second, genetic beliefs that are teachings carried over generations. Third, history beliefs that shed light on our past lives and finally, beliefs held on this level are accumulated from experiences and information an individual has been exposed to on a deeper level and carries forward fromone incarnation to another. The healer talks to the client, accesses her brain waves to command a healing, and identifies which belief system has a problem, a bug, which they then rectify during the healing.

I imagine what readers may

be thinking right about now: this is hogwash. There are plenty of naysayers out there, certainly on the Internet, who dissmiss theta healing as fake, its pioneer Vianna Stibal as a fraud and its followers as kooky. But there are just as many testimonials from people who have benefitted immensely from theta healing— Stibal who claims to have cured herself of cancer using theta healing, which she now teaches to others.

But at this point, it is yours truly who is seated in front of Eastwood, with an open mind and hope that perhaps theta healing will help me to quit smoking.

I tell Eastwood how, despite my desires to be healthy, I am unable to rid myself of my addiction. I

(I am spooked how her diagnosis of a minor health issue that’s been nagging me is echoed by my acupuncturist only three days later) while others don’t.

Eastwood’s aura is that of a healer: she is warm, caring (she paused several times during the session to check on how I was doing) and doesn’t have a hint of arrogance or “know-it-all” attitude you’d find with, say, a televangelist. She has a realistic approach towards theta healing, and even healing in general saying “I believe everyone has the ability to heal.”

Eastwood has always been interested in the spiritual aspect of life and been a searcher but “things never fell into place until four years ago,” she says. During

"I believe everyone has the ability to heal." am thus surprised (even if it is obvious later on) that my addiction ties into my self-esteem. We go further into the recess of my memory to identify where these negative feelings stem from.

What takes me aback is how a clear-cut memory emerges—almost as if from nowhere—which is where these feelings of selfdoubt emanate from. Eastwood removes these negative thoughts to replace them with positive ones. We talk more, she asking questions after she is in the theta wave; some make perfect sense

her studies on meditation, she came across theta healing and decided to pursue the practice because it was what spoke to her the most. “It is a mix of psychic awareness, core healing, the universe’s energy and ultimately counselling. People walk away knowing the core of the issue.”

Since she began practicing full time earlier this year, (after a year-and-a-half of learning and practice) Eastwood has treated people for various physical ailments like low energy, severe depression and back problems.

K, who was treated for low energy and varicose veins says of her healing “[Eastwood] gave me much more than [treatment to physical ailment], by teaching me how our thoughts create everything in our lives, including health and happiness. Now I feel like I have the freedom to create the life I want and achieve all of my dreams.”

Another client said of her session “I notice that I no longer have any forced reactions to whatever my partner or anyone else says or does. That is bliss!”

M says “I feel light and I can feel my heart again! I'm feeling like a child learning again. Old friends I met [told me] ‘you look so good! You look young!

Amazing!”

As we begin to wrap up our session, I definitely feel invigorated and am filled with a sense of urgency to quit smoking.

Eastwood reminds me that it is an uphill battle—and she’s not referring to my addiction but my belief system “Letting go is hard but if you have an open mind and heart, it is possible to shift our belief system into one that works for you”. Since then, I have significantly reduced my tobacco intake and feel more confident about quitting by the new year. I also find myself questioning my intentions in general a lot more. I suppose my mind is open to all sorts of possibilities.

Eastwood charges $60 for a 45 to 60-minute session and can be reached by email at jodieastwood@ gmail.com. asialife HCMC 41

A campaign to raise funds for a home for the elderly saw men ditching their razors and growing out their facial hair. By Brett Davis. Photo by Huynh Ho Quang.

Growing facial hair to raise money for a worthy cause is not your usual charitable activity. However, some brave souls at RMIT University last month took the plunge to bring the ‘Movember’ campaign to Vietnam.

The idea was originally hatched several years ago in Australia to raise awareness and support for men’s health, and now reaches almost every corner of the globe. Participants raise money through donations and sponsorship for growing a moustache (or ‘mo’) for the month of November.

Some 20 men, all staff members at RMIT University, signed on to sport some lip hair.

Towards the end of the month, ballot boxes with photos of guys 42 asialife HCMC

were placed around the campus to collect donations and votes for the ‘Best Mo’.

Ian Handsley, an RMIT Learning Skills Advisor and one of the organisers of the local campaign, said around 20 million VND had been raised.

He said some of the RMIT students were initially a bit perplexed at the idea of growing a moustache for charity. “Once they got it the students were really cool. A lot of students voted and donated, which was awesome,” he said.

Because there was no official Movember chapter in Vietnam, the group decided to support other charitable endeavours rather than the usual men’s health groups.

“We thought there were more

pressing needs [in Vietnam], so we looked for something smaller and more local,” Handsley said.

With assistance from the University’s community engagement office, they chose to support the Lam Quang Pagoda rest home in District 8.

A handful of Buddhist nuns at the pagoda care for almost 100 elderly women who have no relatives.

RMIT Senior Lecturer Nhan Nguyen said he was told the rest home sometimes had to get by on a food budget of as little as 5,000 VND per person each day.

“That was really the inspiration for me to do something,” he said.

Nguyen said many charities

supported children or the handicapped, but the elderly were sometimes overlooked because they were traditionally taken care of by family members.

The money raised by the Movember effort will go towards buying essentials for the rest home such as food, beds and mosquito nets.

There are also plans for some small comforts for the residents.

Many of the women are bedridden and there is little to do in the way of entertainment.

“One day I was visiting the home,” Nguyen explains,” and this old lady said to me ‘Uncle, please give us TV’.”

If you would like to assist the Lam Quang Pagoda rest home contact Nhan Nguyn at nhan. nguyen@rmit.edu.vn.

44 asialife HCMC

FREE NY The HCMC Circus Theatre is going animal free and Ny the elephant is making her escape first.

By Beth Young. Photo by Fred Wissink.

For most of her life, Ny the elephant has performed at the HCMC Circus Theatre on Pham Ngu Lao. Between shows she is locked up in a concrete enclosure, held captive by a heavy chain with very little give. It’s been like this ever since Sony presented her as a gift to the Vietnamese Government 17 years ago. Another elephant was also part of the package, and together So and Ny became circus acts, their names a perpetual reminder of the company’s gesture.

Sadly, So coped poorly with the conditions and was taken away to an unknown location. Ny, now 20, remains, but hopefully for not much longer.

Thanks to animal welfare organisation Wild Life at Risk (WAR) and a group of concerned expatriates, she may soon be returning to a more natural habitat. If all goes to plan, the elephant sanctuary currently under construction at Cat Tien National Park will become her new home once she’s officially retired.

Lori Burke, the creator, coproducer and director of new

circus act "Xin Chao", says it’s about time. Just a few weeks ago, Ny tried to break down the steel gate that surrounds her enclosure, and very nearly succeeded. After the many stunts she’s been forced to perform over the years—balancing onefooted on a spinning table and kicking soccer balls through hoops—it’s easy to understand her desperation to get out. “Can you imagine how cruel [the trainers] must’ve been to her, to make her do things like that?”

Burke says.

Still, Ny’s departure signals a new beginning for her, and also, for the other “performers” who live and work at the circus.

With the decision made to become animal-free, the caged monkeys and dogs kept behind the big top will be rescued and rehabilitated in time, too. “I think it’s going to be a happy story,” Burke says, and it’s one that she hopes will encourage further steps forward for animal welfare in Vietnam.

To contribute to the cost of Ny’s rehabilitation please email WAR at info@wildlifeatrisk.com.

asialife HCMC 45

The City That Never Sleeps Whether you call it Mumbai or Bombay, the spirit of the city rises above and beyond its name, writes Ramya Sarma. Photos by David Berkowitz.

The average denizen of the big bad city that is Mumbai will usually be found walking briskly along on any working day, busy trying to get from here to there without losing too much time. He or she will be headed purposefully to a destination without really bothering too much about obstacles in the way, crossing streets without watching the lights but nimbly dodging traffic, hopping over dividers and fences, swerving around other pedestrians and occasionally muttering what could be a curse, a prayer or even just that age-old question that will never find a satisfying answer: Is it Mumbai or do we still say Bombay?

For the native of the city, 46 asialife HCMC

Mumbai comes naturally, since the founding deity of the settlement is Mumba Devi, after whom it was named. Her temple is still seen in the middle of a very densely populated area where streets are small, narrow, winding and full of adventure, called Kalbadevi. A visit to her shrine is a must for travellers and those coming back to the city alikeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;in fact, whenever I return to Mumbai after an extended stay elsewhere, I go see the goddess and pay my respects, as if to assure myself that I am indeed home.

The Portuguese named the city Bom Bahia, or good harbour, after an exclamation by a soldier who sailed to its shore in 1508. When the British

took over, getting the land as a dowry from the Portuguese princess Catherine de Braganza when she married Charles II in 1661, they had a little difficulty being authentic in their pronunciation and called it Bombay instead. That name stuck for many years, going back to the more vernacular version only in 1995, when the local government decided that it was time to truly throw off all vestige of the Raj. Though nothing could be done with the British legacy of the spectacular Indo-Saracenic architectural styles of so many significant buildings, from the main railway station, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, or Victoria Terminus, to the Prince of Wales museum (now

given an Indian name—Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Sangrahalaya) and the General Post Office (still called the GPO), the letterheads of all functionary offices could be changed.

And they were, using ‘Mumbai’ and making a lot of people for whom Bombay came more naturally, from individuals to companies like Bombay Dyeing, for instance, very unhappy.

But the spirit of the city—call it Mumbai, officially, or Bombay —rises above and beyond its name. A visitor flying in at night will be able to look down to see a galaxy of lights of all colours, in a way symbolizing the many cultures and communities that have made the metropolis home. The airport is at

the edge of Asia’s largest slum development—a paradox in itself—a maze of tiny alleyways winding through shanties piled willy-nilly around, above and alongside one another, where some of the most expensive products in the world are made for export to the west, from carpets to jewels to exquisitely worked garments to leather goods.

Mumbai was originally a string of seven islands that have gradually been joined by causeways and reclamation of land from the sea to make one long, narrow collation of concrete structures. Often dubbed “city of gold,” the region is a destination for millions of migrant workers,

from construction labourers to would-be-actors, who come to Mumbai to find their own Eldorado. Many have no homes, spending their lives on the streets, in dark warehouses or in slum colonies, which make a startling contrast to the towering luxury apartment blocks that tower overhead. The city is indeed a golden one, but only for a lucky few who have struck it rich and found super-success.

It is also called the “city that never sleeps,” since the roads are rarely empty, business never stops and life is an endless circle.

The city is a study in contradictions. South Mumbai, called SoBo by the young elite, has a high snob value. It is where

the original wealthy folks built homes—many of these charming mansions and bungalows are now multi-storey apartment blocks where a single square foot of space is not just exorbitantly expensive, but rarely—if ever—available for sale. The city stretches long and narrow towards the western suburbs, known mainly for the film industry and its stars, or towards the foothills of the Deccan plateau, where a satellite city called Navi Mumbai (New Bombay) has taken root across the creek on to the mainland.

Beaches edge much of the coastline, with treacherous quicksand and sharks making some of them dangerous, while others are dotted with tourists, asialife HCMC 47

sun-worshippers, vendors and, of course, multi-star hotels.

Perhaps the most significant of these is the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, in an area known as Colaba. Situated right across the road from the famous Gateway of India, built to commemorate a British royal’s arrival in the country, the hotel was created by an industrialist-entrepreneur who vowed to make it better than anything any foreigner had ever conceived. Today, the Taj, as it is fondly known, is a landmark the world over, and often the location for that special celebrity visit, special wedding, that special anniversary, any special celebration.

48 asialife HCMC

The Mumbai resident has a soft spot for its beauty, its elegance and its cachet, and many of us felt personally violated when terrorists attacked in November 2008, defiling its corridors with bullets and blood. The Oberoi and Trident, too, were similarly assaulted at the time, even as so many of us watched, horrified, in person, on television, in print. But recovery was quick, though not easy, and Mumbai showed off its spirit once again.

We are now back to normal, though rather more wary than before, and raring to go, to show off to the world what the city that never sleeps is all about.

For many, Mumbai is synonymous with Bollywood, the world where dreams can, and often do, come true. The Hindi film industry, with its epicentre in the western suburbs of the city, is home to famous faces like Shahrukh Khan, Aishwarya Rai, Amitabh Bachchan, Aamir Khan and others. Film City, located in the jungle-clad hills, is where stories are created and captured for gawking audiences all over the world. The television world has its own share of star power, and has its focus not too far away, in Andheri, Malad and Goregaon, beaming a new culture into homes everywhere.

Mumbai is as famous for its

street food as it is for its stars— in business, in films, on television or in style. What Anthony Bourdain called the “Bombay burger” is the ubiquitous vadapau, a heavy, rounded, spicy potato cake stuffed into soft bread and munched in alternation with a tear-inducingly hot fried green chilli. Almost every street will have its share of stalls serving up steaming plates of fragrant and astonishingly germ-free food, from the soya-and-chilli sauce drenched Chinese noodles to the soft white rice cakes, or idlis, eaten with sharp coconut chutney, to the crunchy-tangy texturallyrich bhelpuri. There will be

zunkha-bhakar, rice pancakes eaten with a hot, polenta-like gramflour paste, and puribhaji, fried wheat pancakes with spicy potatoes, and, of course, sugarcane juice, sweet, cold, refreshing and a real treat on a hot day. Cutting chai, half-full glasses of thick, sweet, spiced tea will seal the stomach and help the digestion. And kulfi, a creamy frozen treat related closely to ice-cream, will demand a return trip. And if you happen to live and work in the city, you will very likely use the dabbawalla service, endorsed by corporate biggies and lauded

by Prince Charles, and now considered a model of high-effi-

ciency networking and business management. This is run by an ever-increasing group of men who bustle from home to office to home again, delivering lunch boxes with foolproof speed and organization.

Perhaps a symbol of Mumbai is the commuter train system, which the dabbawallas use to best effect. The electric-powered carriages wind their way like heavy metal worms through the heart of the city, taking hordes of professionals from home to work and back every day. A ride on one of these is fascinating, fast, efficient, exciting, the easiest way to get from A to B without taking too

long over it and avoiding the traffic that makes Mumbai such a nightmare to travel in. There is always something to see out the windows—and doors—of the train; and there is so much happening inside too, from card games to prayer sessions to kitty parties to an occasional baby birth, a fight, even a death or two as the unwary dash across the tracks.

And the train is where much of Mumbai’s go-getting character can be seen—there will be a fisherwoman from the Koli community sitting by the door, her ears glinting with heavy gold and her bejeweled fingers holding up a brand new, hi-tech

mobile phone to her ear. There will be an aspiring television actor learning her lines, patting her carefully arranged hair into place, her clothes and makeup all set to go. There will be an executive barking orders over the phone while his fingers scuttle over the keyboard of his laptop.

And there will always be a couple staring longingly into each other’s eyes as they are pressed together in the crush of the second-class compartment.

This is the city that never sleeps, the city of gold, the city where dreams can come true.

This is Mumbai. As the song goes, “Yeh hai Mumbai, meri jaan!” (this is Mumbai, my dear!) asialife HCMC 49

The Book Of Proverbs I have always held that the culinary art can reveal a culture just as surely as any other art or social activity. It's just as good a window into a people's soul as its literature, poetry, film, painting or sculpture. And you don't have to speak the language. A willing palate and an adventurous appetite are all you need to delve into a foreign society, and even come to feel at home.

When I came here in 1991, the simple getting here was difficult for anyone, but especially for Americans. There was very little transport into or out of the country, the roads were bad, the restrictions on travel, once you got here, onerous.

And as a U.S. citizen I had no diplomatic representation here. I had to send my passport to the Vietnamese embassy in Mexico City to get a visa.

When I finally arrived, most of the few tourists I encountered were Scandinavian backpackers wearing blond dreadlocks and baggy Nepali PJ trousers. I met only one fellow American: a drugged-out war vet looking for his lost love.

And the American war was still visible. The landscape was still scarred with bomb craters and wreckage. Buildings were still pockmarked with bullet holes. The common tool box carried by workmen and artisans was a discarded American ammunition box. Amerasian children still haunted the streets, along with old soldiers missing limbs or eyes. Everything needed fixing up. It seemed as though the war had ended only recently. All was gray and colourless. Except the food.

Everywhere I went, food burst forth, vibrant with colour and verve. Nothing was put on a plate without meticulous care.

Presentation was as important as taste and aroma. A man told me that when you eat, “you

must first eat with your eyes.”

Even if you have very little, and only the humblest of fare, you must observe the civilising and uplifting power of cuisine. Yes, everyone was poor, and opportunities for advancement few.

It was hard times. But no one would allow that to interfere

and a buffet lined the fourth.

It was groaning with the most beautiful dishes. It was a a display of life and love of life and all good things. A Vietnamese man purchased his lunch and, though other tables were empty, he sat down with me, certainly knowing who I was.

In the first days of my arrival I told no one that I was American. I wanted no one to equate me with the still visible signs of the bitter war. I didn't want to have to explain the unexplainable. with the art, the pleasure, the community, even the sanctity of cuisine. The art of cuisine affirmed life, maintained hope even in the darkest days. It spoke of a people who never yield to adversity.

And yet I found that the role of cuisine in this culture goes beyond even that. In the first days of my arrival I told no one that I was American. I wanted no one to equate me with the still visible signs of the bitter war. I didn't want to have to explain the unexplainable. But within a week, it came out that I was from the USA. And the news spread. It seemed the whole city knew who I was.

I was astonished at how well I was treated. Many people even told me they were glad to see me, that they hoped other Americans would come to visit.

I was deeply grateful for their kindness, though I wondered at their sincerity. One is required here to keep up appearances.

But one day I found myself in a little restaurant eating delicious, chewy sausage balls wrapped in tangy la-lot (betel) leaves and grilled to crispness.

The place was bright and airy and beautiful silk paintings decorated three of the walls

He smiled a greeting but said nothing. We ate in silent company, smiling politely now and then. It was clear to me that the man wanted nothing more than to eat with me, though I could not fathom why.

Finishing his meal, he pointed to one of the silk paintings, a still life of a table set with food and what I took to be a grace written beneath. He smiled again and spoke, apparently trying to explain the painting to me. I nodded and smiled, but he was insistent and got up and pointed to the words under the picture. He gesticulated and gestured and explained. I finally took out my notebook and copied it down, and he seemed satisfied. He even patted the notebook as I put it back in my shirt pocket.

He went his way. I put the inscription in a pouch along with some recipes and other things to be translated when I got back home, and forgot about it. Back in California, I showed those notes to a Vietnamese neighbour. When he looked at that last scribbled bit, he smiled. “An old, old proverb,” he said. “In food, as in death, we feel the essential oneness of humanity.”

Au Manor De Khai Khai is arguably Vietnam’s biggest lifestyle brand, selling quality goods in clothing, accessories, homeware and dining with three restaurants— Nam Kha, Cham Charm and Au Manor De Khai which re-opened in October last year.

The brand Khai has come to be equated with all that is good in aesthetics and Au Manor De Khai is no exception—the restaurant is beautiful. And judging by the response of visitors at its re-opening, its renovation deserves a few accolades.

Khai defines Au Manor as a “design restaurant”, a place where high-level entrepreneurs and professionals can come together and relax in fine

ambient settings. Khai adapted aspects of the design restaurant by adding his own flair to create Au Manor—those familiar with Khai’s designs will see that level of detail in the seemingly small things. Much of the food is imported: the foie gras from France, the lobster from Maine (where it is kept in cold water reefs) and the truffle fungus from Périgord. Khai’s attention to detail can also be found in the menu, which he creates and is well executed by his chef.

The premises is a colonial villa that’s been restored with plush black and white interiors—from the tiles to the dining table settings to the very impressive bar, it’s elegance personified. The

Fine French dining served in plush colonial surroundings. By M. Khan.

Photos by Fred Wissink. dining room upstairs seats very few and this is what is lovely about the indoor space for it allows an intimate dining experience. There’s no fear of tight spaces between diners or eavesdropping here.

What is truly impressive, however, is the outdoor space: the tables outside (along with two lounges) make for a great al fresco dining option or work just as well for aperitifs or post meal drinks. Fred and I were lucky to dine outside in lovely cool climes and after a drink or two, the noise from the traffic outside drowned out.

Onto the most important ingredient of an eatery: the food. Here too Au Manor De Khai did not disappoint. The

complimentary tuna starter was delicious as the pan fried goose liver served with roasted apple and raspberry vinegar sauce (370,000 VND).

A complimentary strawberry sorbet with vodka served on a large block of ice came next as a break between courses and to help cleanse the palate. We had a scrumptious grilled Wagyu beef tenderloin served with mix mushroom sauce (1,500,000 VND). And dessert was a moist chocolate cheesecake with raspberry sauce (160,000 VND).

It was a very good meal and worth a second visit, soon too.

251 Dien Bien Phu, District 3. Tel: 3930 3394 6 pm to 10 pm asialife HCMC 51

The Snap Café It’s got to be tough to be known as “that kids café”— despite an extensive evening menu and a plethora of events that do not cater to children.

But shaking off that image as a kid-friendly place is perhaps The Snap Cafe’s greatest challenge at this point.

The café was started by Dan Salter in late 2009 as he was looking for a family-friendly eatery and none was really around—at least not as he envisioned it. The former engineer cum entrepreneur with investments in real estate went about building the café himself from scratch. Today the rustic café (which reminded me of being in Africa with his high thatched bamboo ceilings, alfresco dining and long picnic tables plus sofa lounges) exudes warmth—and a place 52 asialife HCMC

where kids and adults can feel at home.

The menu too has seen an evolution. Salter, who loves to cook, initially wanted a basic European style menu, home cooking, but soon realised that as the clientele expanded and reflected the various nationalities, the menu had to, too.

Today he serves up an eclectic mix of the staples: the popular burger (140,000 VND), sausages and mash (in vegetarian too, both at 140,000 VND), various pastas (120,000 VND) and, the green curry chicken (130,000 VND) and Pad Thai curry (130,000 VND) to name a few of their mains.

The weekend brunch is a festive time and the menu consists of the usual suspects: a big breakfast can be had (The Full Monty at 120,000 VND) or you

A kid-friendly cafe that caters to adults, too.

By M. Khan. Photos by Fred Wissink.

can make your own; blueberry pancakes go for 70,000 VND. Other food items include sandwiches (the roast beef deserves a special mention at 80,000 VND), soups and salads and, you guessed it, a kid’s menu too. A special mention should be made of the wines they sell by the carafe (lighter on pocket and head next morning) and the dips and nibbles platter (70,000 VND).

The Snap Café’s luscious space works in its favour, not just as an eatery and play area, but for the several events they host—be it movie nights, TV screenings of shows or major sporting events, to private parties. The generous space creates an intimate yet relaxed ambience. The café is also home to several outlets which will welcome new additions in

the new year: thus far there’s a furniture outlet, a jewellery store and Oasis Deli which has a cold cut and cheese platter on the café’s menu too (130,000 and 140,000 VND, respectively).

Both Salter and Shawn Bader, the manager, have ambitious plans for the space and café—expansion being big on the cards, especially for the menu. They hope to include weekly menu specials, and branch out into different international cuisines, Indian being one example. And with a creative chef at the helm, it seems possible—and the kids will be alright too.

The Snap Cafe 32 Tran Ngoc Dien Thao Dien, District2 Open 8 am to 11 pm

Hai Lua Hai Lua translates as “hick” in English and the alfresco restaurant on Ngo Van Nam in District 1 prepares traditional Vietnamese delicacies in the same rustic manner as those who reside in the countryside.

With a history spanning more than a decade from humble beginnings on nearby Ly Tu Trong, Hai Lua is a HCM City institution and has a reputation for serving quality local fare— especially seafood. Plucked live from large tanks, the vast selection of marine life is as fresh as can be.

The new location—opened

An open-air Vietnamese restaurant serving country-style cuisine. By Beth Young. Photos by Ho Quang. since last Tet—backs onto the new Saigon Square and sports an open kitchen at the forefront.

Here, patrons can request a dish (made easier for foreigners with pictures and an attached English description), which is then cooked straightaway in full view. And judging by the mostly Vietnamese crowd, the chefs’ prowess behind the wok can be commended.

Adventurous eaters can challenge their palates with semi-hatched duck eggs (10,000 VND each), field mice or stewed goat penis with Chinese medicine (630,000 VND per

serve). Otherwise, the slightly peppery squid steamed with ginger (125,000 VND) is a great place to start. Kept hot atop a burner, the muc, as its known in Vietnamese, is tender and tangy.

The Thai hotpot (205,000 VND) is another main worth sampling. Absolutely bursting with seafood—octopus, prawns, clams—plus straw mushrooms and morning glory, the spicy broth is seasoned with lemongrass. And sea cucumber makes an interesting, yet not so tasty, addition.

A definite must-try is the grouper with soybean jam (prices

set at market rate). With mouth wide-open and sharp teeth on display, the fish is a macabre sight but the soft flesh that falls from its bones is delicious. Mixed with the sweet sauce, nutty soybeans and vermicelli that sits on top, a visit to Hai Lua would be remiss without ordering at least one to share.

With options like this Hai Lua gives an authentic Vietnamese dining experience and a slice of country life within the city’s core.

10 Ngo Van Nam, District 1 Tel: 3823 0306 Open 10 am to 11 pm asialife HCMC 53

Behind the Design - Moevenpick Hotel The Moevenpick completes its makeover and proves how functional art can be adapted in the hospitality sector. By Brett Davis. Photos by Fred Wissink.

54 asialife HCMC

Hotels are practical things, a place to lay your head at the end of a journey. Occasionally, they can even be beautiful in a distant sort of way. It is not often though that they take a bold design step that is moving more in the direction of functional art.

The Swiss hotel group Moevenpick closed their HCM City property for several months last year to perform a major makeover. The result is a top-to-bottom redesign that has reinvigorated the hotel and turned the heads of new and regular guests alike.

Moevenpick General Manager Knuth Kiefer explained the goal was to create an overall design that set the hotel apart from the competition in Vietnam.

“In Hong Kong or Singapore you will see things like this but not in Vietnam,” he said.

The result was a collaborative process, with an original design from a Thai firm supplemented with ideas from numerous sources including the property owner and construction project manager.

However, only a little way into the conversation with

Kiefer it is obvious the general manager’s personal flair was a significant influence on the final design. Purple sofas provide an arresting counter-note in the gleaming white lobby, and the striking shade is a recurring theme through much of the new design. It also happens to be Kiefer’s favourite colour.

“I like colours that are different—purple, turquoise, lime green. I like contrast and I think it worked quite well with a white lobby,” he said.

Around 2,500sq metres of floor space was added to the ho-

tel through the reconstruction.

The front entrance was moved forward and more glass added to bring in extra light. Even new uniforms were designed to give a more stylish, less formal feel.

The changes have been well received by the vast majority of the hotel’s guests. Kiefer said the hotel was looking to move away from its more staid, colonial-looking past and attract a higher-end corporate guest.

The transition from the past to a bright new future could not be more dramatic. asialife HCMC 55

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asialife HCMC 59

Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5 pm every Friday.

listings

Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

hotel & travel

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

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Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

VASCO Vietnam Airlines office, 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3842 2790 www.vasco.com.vn Though it’s primary business is cargo shipment, Vietnam Air Service Company (VASCO) flies daily from HCM City to Con Dao and makes connections to lesser-known cities like Ca Mau, Tuy Hoa and Chu Lai. Buy tickets at the Vietnam Airlines office.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 94 Tran Quoc Toan Tel: 942 0848

For an escape close to home indulge in a signature New Year treatment package at the Park Hyatt Saigon’s Xuan Spa. The package includes a 40-minute soothing honey and oat body wrap, followed by an 80-minute apricot blossom treatment and health juice and costs 2,050,000 VND++.

Call 3520 2357 or email opera.saiph@ hyatt.com.

Spend one night in a Garden View Room at the Evason Ana Mandara in Nha Trang for US $196 ++ (based on twin share for a minimum two-night stay). The package includes daily buffet breakfast, a refreshing welcome drink and fruit basket plus round trip shuttle bus airport transfers and free use of the resort’s Internet facilities. The deal is valid from January 16 until February 28 and this rate applies for bookings from December 7 onwards. Call 58 3 524 705 or email reservations-nhatrang@ sixsenses.com.

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CON DAO ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administration building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available.

Con Dao Resort 8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of

treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444 www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activities

Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Park Hyatt Saigon

Evason Ana Mandara

HCM City: 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

The Six Senses Ninh Van Bay is offering a night in a Hill Top Villa for US $310 ++ (based on twin share for a minimum two-night stay). The package includes daily buffet breakfast, shuttle bus and boat transfers, a bottle of sparkling wine on arrival plus a welcome drink and fruit basket. Complimentary services include snorkelling and kayaking. The deal is valid from January 16 until February 28 and this rate applies for bookings from December 7 onwards. Email reservations-ninhvan@ sixsenses.

Palm Garden Resort

The Palm Garden Resort in Hoi An will offer a Tet Holiday Package from January 27 until February 10 for US $149++ per person for a twin share room. The deal includes two nights in a Superior Garden View Room, daily buffet breakfast at Terrace Café, round-trip airport transfers plus a visit to Hoi An Ancient Town and choice of family cooking class or Vietnamese conversation course. Call 510 3927 927 or email reservation@pgr.com.vn.

Ana Mandara Dalat

Spend two nights in a Villa Room at the Ana Mandara Dalat for US $398/room/ night. The Valentine Getaway package includes round trip airport transfers, daily breakfast, a picnic lunch at Tuyen Lam Lake, romantic dinner, couples massage at La Cochinchine Spa and a special gift at turndown. A 10 percent discount on extra food and spa use is included plus access to the resort’s heated swimming pool and gym. Valid all February, except for the 2nd to the 7th. Call 063 3555 888 or email reservasion-dalat@anamandararesort.com.

Mango Bay

Honeymoon at eco resort Mango Bay on Phu Quoc Island for US $165. The package includes two nights stay in a Plantation Bungalow with daily breakfast.

Airport transfers are included and a 20 percent discount will be offered for use of the wellness centre. The deal is valid from May 5 until June 30, 2011. Call 0903 382 207, email mangobay@hcm.vnn.vn or visit www.mangobayphuquoc.com.

www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Nikko Hotel 84 Tran Nhan Tong Tel: 04 3822 3535 www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn Luxury hotel offering spacious rooms, elegant furnishings, international fine dining from Europe, China and Japan.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues.

Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

Duxton Hotel 63 Nguyen Hue D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Located in downtown Saigon. Facilities include spa, beauty salon, Zanadu Health Club, gym, outdoor swimming and main restaurant, The Grill.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Legend Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com Located by the river with fitness centre, outdoor pool, kids play centre, Crystal Jade Chinese restaurant and jazz bar.

Möevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Has 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Villa Hotel at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Four restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese restaurant.

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activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG

Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.domainedetamhai.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Palm Garden Resort Hoi An Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach,

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Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Set on 5 hectares of landscaped tropical garden in an enviable beach location, the Palm Garden Resort offers an exceptional green environment with over 400 species of palm trees and plants along the famous Cua Dai Beach in the UNESCO-recognized world heritage site of Hoi An Ancient City.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land.

Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to

Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or twoday excursions with beach camping by campfire are available.

HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

Imperial Hue 57 Dang Dung Tel: 054 3522 478 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Opulent high-rise hotel with panoramic views of the city and Ngu Binh Mountain.

Facilities include swimming pool, gym, Royal spa, Prince Club casino and business centre.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-

anamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

PHAN THIET

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne,

Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

and golden hardwood lodges powered by solar energy. Premises include restaurant in traditional Tay stilt house, and Topas offers a range of outdoor activities, including mountain biking and trekking.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors.

Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kitesurfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen.

Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $40-50/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake.

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught

by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC

Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island. Private or shared bathrooms, no air-conditioning or hot water. Boat trips and scooter tours.

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA

Topas Eco Lodge 24 Muong Hoa Tel: 020 3871 331 www.topasecolodge.com Overlooking the Hoang Lien Mountains, Topas is comprised of 25 white granite

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).

We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-ofthe-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving 62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

River Ray Resort 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym.

TRAVEL AGENTS

Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

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and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

listings

food & drink

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open from 11:30 am to late. Lunch served from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm then snack menu is available.

Bread & Butter 40/26 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 Lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches), Brit pub dinner (bangers & mash, fish & chips) and Sunday evening roast. Serves Huda Beer from Hue. Closed 2:30 pm to 5 pm and Mondays.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus

feast

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

K Cafe 28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673 www.kcafevietnam.com This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area.

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation. 

On January 17, Michelin Star chef Jean Baptiste Natali will showcase his talents at Reflections Restaurant in the Caravelle Hotel. A la Carte meals, including deepsea scallops, roasted duck liver and pastrami brisket, will range from 160,000 to 432,000 VND ++. Call 38234999 or visit caravellehotel.com.

Market 39

Each Sunday, the InterContinental Asiana Saigon’s Market 39 will prepare a brunch from 12 noon till 3 pm including a wide selection of Western and Asian meals and fresh seafood. For 596,000 VND ++ per person the brunch includes free flow of soft drink and juices (children aged 6 to 12 receive a 50 percent discount). For an extra 200,000 VND, the brunch includes free flow of Veuve Clicquot champagne, white and red wine and Tiger beer.

The Norfolk Mansion’s signature Chinese restaurant Shang Palace will prepare traditional delicacies to celebrate the Lunar New Year. Specialties like Yu Sheng—raw salmon with shredded vegetables—will be available on January 16 and 17. Call 3823 2221, email reservation@shangpalace.com. vn or visit shangpalace.com.vn.

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Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn

Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Caravelle Hotel

Shang Palace

La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Orientica Restaurant

The Equatorial Hotel’s Orientica Restaurant has unveiled a new menu boasting Chinese-inspired favourites like Peking roasted duck, Singaporean-style wok-fried crab with chili and tomato sauce, cod fish steamed with soy sauce and seared Australian beef fillet with caramelised onion in barbeque and mustard sauce. A la Carte items range from 120,000 VND ++ to 1,450,000 VND ++. Call 3839 7777 ext.

8333.

Lotus Court

Lotus Court—the Moevenpick Hotel’s signature Chinese restaurant—is offering a Dim Sum Brunch on Sunday for 250,000 VND ++ per person. A vast selection of dim sum is prepared in full view of patrons. Call 3844 9222 ext 168.

Yu Chu

Yu Chu, on the first floor of the InterContinental Asiana Saigon, will offer a daily all you can eat Chinese buffet from 6 pm till 10.30 pm for 400,000 VND ++ per person. Diners can choose from more than 30 authentic Cantonese and Peking dishes.

TOTT Bar & Restaurant

Throughout January, Top of the Town Bar & Restaurant at the Windsor Hotel will

serve up Churrasco—Latin Americanstyle roasted beef, pork, lamb and fish for 280,000 VND ++ per person. The price is subject to VAT and service charge.

Call 3833 6688 ext 2626 or email tott@ windsorplazahotel.com.

Pasha

Turkish restaurant Pasha at 25 Dong Du has several offers throughout January. On Sunday, kids eat free per every paid adult meal; on Mondays buy one chicken shish kebab and get one free and on Tuesdays buy one pizza and get one free. Call 6291 3677 or visit pasha.com.vn.

Opera Restaurant

From January 10, the Park Hyatt Saigon’s Opera Restaurant will prepare an antipasti lunch buffet with choice of main courses and desserts. The buffet is available from 12 noon until 2.30 pm, Monday to Friday and costs 470,000 VND ++ per person.

Cal 3520 2357 or email opera.saiph@hyatt. com.

Centro Caffe Bar & Ristorante

Each Friday from 6 pm till 9 pm, newly renovated Centro at Lam Son Square will host a wine tasting. The wine will be matched with Italian appetizers and a DJ will play from 9 pm onwards.

grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes. All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Stocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.  Illy Café 111A Pasteur, D1 Tel: 2220 2388

Fax: 2220 2389 Grand View Shop SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3292 Fax: 5412 3293 An Italian-style coffee bar that serves Illy—a world-renowned espresso blend.

Makes classic coffees like the cappuccino as well as innovative alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. Also serve light Italian cuisine and desserts.

Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a

range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

That’s Café Rivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne. Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 53 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet.

Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground.

Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

WHERE COFFEE MAKES HISTORY

G R A ND OP ENI NG J a nua r y 2011

THE FIRST STORE IN HA NOI 75 CAU GO, HANG BAC WARD, HOAN KIEM, HA NOI TEL:04 39352065 FAX: 04 39352065

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imbibe

street gourmet

Banh Chung Banh chung is a traditional Vietnamese cake made from glutinous rice, green bean and pork. It is an essential element of the family altar on Tet and making and eating banh chung during this time is a well-preserved

Drink to Good Health

By Beth Young Grown originally in the south west of France, Tannat—an especially thick-skinned red grape—has been keeping the region’s population alive longer. That’s because the littleknown variety contains several unique natural compounds that are said to halt wrinkles, contribute to cardiovascular health and even protect against cancer.

JB Baudron, sales and operations manager at The Warehouse, calls this phenomenon the “French Paradox”. Though foie gras, creamy cheese and cassoulet—a local delicacy that mixes white beans, goose fat, pork and duck sausage with tomato sauce—comprise the food of choice, the area’s inhabitants are defying logic with their good health.

A bottle of Madiran, the most famous Tannat drop—and the one most widely drunk in France—goes for 594,000 VND at The Warehouse. Very similar to Madiran is Saint Mont (which ranges in price from 235,000 to 594,000 VND). Baudron says both wines are dark

66 asialife HCMC

crimson in colour with a floral yet woody bouquet owed to a year spent aging in oak barrels. And because of the high level of tannin evident in all wines made from this supergrape, they have a crisp, fresh and light texture.

Interestingly, Tannat grapes have also travelled from France to Uruguay. There, a thriving Tannat industry spanning 200 years produces juicier wine with fruity, berry notes, spicy accents and a longer finish. The Warehouse stocks Monte de Luz—a smoky variety best served with beef (309,000 VND).

Regardless of where the wine hails from it is generally a full-bodied brew that Baudron says improves enormously with age. When kept in the bottle for up to two decades, he says Tannat wines develop serious complexity. The aromatic berry and wood flavours will remain, but will be joined by hints of leather, tobacco and dried fruit. What’s more, the tannins will melt away, creating a smoother finish that Baudron enthuses is “well worth the wait”.

CHINESE Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND.

tradition. Aside from Tet, it is eaten all year round and is one of the national dishes of Vietnam. It goes for 20,000 to 100,000 VND, depending on its size.

Hanh Nguyen

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Lotus Court 1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168 www.moevenpick-saigon.com Dim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.  Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves nofat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, soft serve and smoothies.

OPEN 24/7

Where the game’s always on!

NFL, College Football, NHL, Football, Rugby and More.

Takeout and Free Delivery.

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28

FRENCH Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, panfried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Cote D'Azur 12T3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Da Kao. D1 Tel: 3911 5473 www.cotedazur.vn Authentic French cuisine in delightful surroundings, the brasserie's menu offers delectable dishes. Cote d'Azur's ambience gives it a homely feel and it also offers catering services.

La Bordeaux F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831 www.restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn French fine dining in an elegant, intimate

12 T3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St. Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City T/F: 08 39 11 54 73 E: brasserie@cotedazur.vn www.cotedazur.vn

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loft space with dark wood and linendraped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu.

recipes Soy Glazed Salmon serves 2 | prep time: 10 minutes

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years. Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space.

An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND.

Salmon is great for a burst of protein mid-week. This scrumptious glaze will give it an extra kick.

2 salmon fillets 2 tsp sugar 1⁄2 cup light soy sauce 2 red chillies, sliced 2 tsp ginger, grated 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 tbs sesame oil 2 tbs cooking oil

Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary. Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

ONE Put all ingredients in a ziploc bag excluding cooking oil. Shake until fillets are marinated evenly.

TWO Take out fillets, pour excess marinade in a pan and let thicken.

THREE Heat oil, pan-sear fillets (4 minutes on each side).

FOUR Pour glaze over the salmon and serve.

SERVE WITH Brown rice + a side of greens.

TRY THIS Use teriyaki sauce instead of soy sauce in the marinade, just omit sugar.

For more information contact Elizabeth Png-Reade at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux.com

Recipes provided by

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L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Ty Coz 178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457 Homely and attractive venue specializes in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for and sells carefully selected seafood.

INDIAN Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144 S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Mumtaz 226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767 Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around 30,000 VND while meat dishes cost

between 45,000 VND and 55,000 VND each. Excellent kebabs.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182

BoatHouse’s sister eatery for takeaway and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Saigon Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234 www.moevenpick-saigon.com An international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from. Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

Domino’s Pizza Vietnam 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, My Duc, D7 Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn www.facebook.com/DominosPiz-

zaVietnam Domino’s delivers hot and fresh pizzas to your home within 30 Minutes. Open 11 am to 11 pm, Sunday to Thursday and 11 am to midnight, Friday to Saturday.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event.  Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail. 

Juice Bar 86 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 0631 or 3915 3603 www.juicebar.vn Serves healthy smoothies made with yoghurt, fresh fruit and vegetable juices and wholesome sandwiches. Also sells vitamins and supplements.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for

Come and Enjoy the Festive Season

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Hard Rock Cafe InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.hardrockcafe.vn Popular theme restaurant/live music venue serves large portions of pub fare including salads, fajitas and burgers.

Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the rock shop sells themed shot glasses, T-shirts and jewellery.  Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of

Christmas Menu US$49 (adults), US$29 (kids) New Year's Eve Menu US$51 Book before Dec. 15 and get 5% off on tables of 1 to 5 and 10% off on tables of 6 or more To find us, walk through the arch at 74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our beautiful secluded courtyard.

Telephone 3823 0509 Open 7 Days

English live sports channels • Free wi-fi • Dips • Meze • Homemade pide bread • Kebabs • Koftes • Steaks • Shawarma • Sandwiches • Vegetarian • Turkish & Italian pizza’s • Pasta • Seafood • Turkish delights • Drinks • Shisha Open 10am - 2am Delivery 11am - 11pm

For company function please call or sms Ms Vi 090 712 9430

25 Dong Du, D1, HCMC call 08 629 136 77 or info@pasha.com.vn WWW.PASHA.COM.VN asialife HCMC 69

lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Set dinner served from 5pm. Also in Vincom Center.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

47 Phan Chu Trinh St. Ben Thanh Ward D1 HCM City w w w. b a b y s p o o n v n . c o m

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Pinocchio Restaurant Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9199 Email: info@pinocchio.vn A quiet place in the Vincom Center to indulge in pizza, pasta, salad and international and Vietnamese mains for a reasonable price.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture out-

70 asialife HCMC

side, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.  Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious designled indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle

Houses & Villas

street gourmet

For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

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www.snap.com.vn Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Banh Bo Hap Banh bo hap is a sweet, chewy steamed white cake made from rice flour, water, sugar, and yeast. The texture of this steamed cake is chewy and sticky and it is sweet with a slightly tangy

dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

aftertaste. Added coconut milk gives banh bo hap a fragrant aroma. Banh bo hap is generally eaten as a dessert and costs about 3,000 VND per piece.

Hanh Nguyen

ITALIAN Baby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357 SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 0145 Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.  La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.  Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998

A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.  Villa Romaine Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Set on the banks of the Saigon River, Villa Romaine offers traditional Italian pizzas and pastas in an alfresco setting with an excellent wine list. Open till midnight Sunday to Thursday and till 1 am Friday and Saturday.

JAPANESE Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Iki Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127 www.moevenpick-saigon.com

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

asialife HCMC 71

AsianGourmet

A great range of food from around the world, with emphasis placed on BBQ’d Asian dishes.

A Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

Kuru Kuru Sushi 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566 Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu and items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. Very affordable prices.

41 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 6280 6870

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

Independently voted one of the top 3 restaurants in Vietnam

Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthy, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike.  Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857 Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND.

One of the fastest-growing innovative function and food service organisers.

Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN

Tel: Robert (English) 012 2303 9633 Ms. Huong (Vietnamese) 091 398 1128 Email: info@saigoncateringco.com

www.saigongourmetgroup.com

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25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery.

Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chaba Thai Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Cosy restaurant nestled in the middle of Thao Dien Village offering authentic Thai food. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812 Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai Village Sharksfin Restaurant 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3825 6706 Restaurant serving authentic Thai-Theochew cuisine including their specialty: whole braised shark’s fin in clay pot.

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices.

Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/ beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts

Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light.

Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms.

Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas,

an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam. Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Marina 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu tel: 3930 2379 www.ngocsuong.com.vn Swish seafood restaurant with al fresco and indoor seating and a vast menu of upmarket Vietnamese dishes. Features 10 set menus at varying price scales.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Vietnamese Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 3744 6857 Located at the picturesque Thao Dien Village, Ngon offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine including alfresco cooking and dinning with traditional music on Thursday nights and traditional water puppet show on Saturday nights.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Quan Nuong 3T Barbecue 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture. Call for reservations.

Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3822 5038 Serves a large selection of Tib’s Hue-food menu in a more casual dining rooom and at significantly lower prices. Specializes in bun bo Hue.  Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Acoustic Bar 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239 A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue

popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Boston Sports Bar 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.

Catering services and private room available for parties. Takeout and free delivery.

Open 24 hours.  Ciao Lounge 2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a mixture of retro and modern decor and a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great escape from central Saigon but quite touristy.

Cranberry Café & Pub 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991 Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully frosted mugs.

Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch.

Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

asialife HCMC 73

Number Five Bar 44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300 Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats.

Tel: 3925 2599 Sleek bi-level lounge with Scandinavian design, Bansky-esque murals and top-notch billiards and snooker tables, paid for by the hour. Hosts league play, half-price Mondays, ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; nights and DJ events.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

Yoko 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 Tel: 3825 1901 Compact and popular joint with nightly live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic range of Western styles, with most songs sung in English.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant white-feather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

T&R Tavern 57 Do Quang Dau, D1 Classic expat dive bar with pool table, darts and comfortable yet simple decor.

Daily happy hour and sportsfans can catch games on the big screen.

NIGHTCLUBS

Vibe Billiards & Lounge 102 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1

Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND.

Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

at home Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries. Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

La DorĂŠe 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 1718 65 Pasteur, D1 Reminiscent of a luxurious Parisian bakery, La DorĂŠe prepares and serves a variety of colourful breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds plus baguettes, fougasse, le dieppois sandwiches and le montagnard. Must-try desserts include tiramisu, chocolate mousse and MontĂŠ Carlo.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulÊe and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

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Tous Les Jours 180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING

BAKERIES

Schneiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com

Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, dĂŠcor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes

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VINCOM CENTER . BASEMENT 3

74 asialife HCMC

DONG KHOI . LE THANH TON

INFO@PINOCCHIO.VN

FROM 9AM TO 10PM

FOR INFORMATIONS AND ORDER: 08 399 391 99

include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare.

Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more indepth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eightday course costs USD $160.

GROCERIES Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Bellany Gelato & Sorbet Tel: 0122 774 3132 New Italian gelato and sorbet brand made entirely from local fresh fruit and adapted to contain minimal fat and sugar. Delivers to Thao Dien, An Phu residents from 4 pm to 9 pm in just 30 minutes. 125 ml, 450 ml and 2.8 litre packages are available and there are 15 flavours to choose from.

Classic Fine Foods 17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

Best in Italian Cuisine.

Extensive Wine Collection.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

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LIQUOR & WINE Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned

by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections.

Red Apron 22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021 Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive distributor of such fine brands as Taittinger Champagne.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories. Provides advice and delivery

Au Manor De Khai

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listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Creative Writing Classes Tel: 090 448 2957 kate_orson@hotmail.com Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing courses for fiction, non-fiction and travel writing. Beginners and experienced writers are welcome.

Change Your Mind, Body, Spirit

By Nutrifort’s Nicole Hawkins This time of year, it’s always a good mental exercise to reflect over the past year, and at the same time, plan for the year ahead—whether for your personal or professional life. For many of you who have put off your fitness (body and mind) resolutions, perhaps I can help you change your mind.

What if fitness, in addition to shaping your body, also sculpted your mind, sharpened it, opened it, even changed it? What if exercise swept you up into a backand-forth of brain and brawn, taking off pounds and putting on wisdom? What if moving your body helped you stretch your confidence and flex remnants of character long buried in your life's rubble? Wouldn’t you give it a try?

Each time you go for a run, get on a bike, or simply take the dog out for a walk, you are building on your fitness programme. It doesn’t have to be hard core, or competitive, it just needs to be something you do for your body and enjoy, so that you keep doing it a few days a week… for the rest of your life. We all know the benefits of exercise for your body, but it has therapeutic effects on the mind. Once you get over the hurdles of muscle pain and stiffness, the mental

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confidence that emerges is truly the most rewarding kind.

Start with a list of physical things you love to do (by yourself or with someone or a group). Whether it’s dancing in front of a mirror, playing with your dog or even shopping with a friend, make a habit of doing an activity you love every day. Then find something to laugh about during these activities, and you will reap even more benefits.

Be patient with yourself, and allow time for your body to adjust to the changes—no change is too small. Love and care for your body for giving you life. And look at every reflection with appreciation— appreciation for every curve, love handle, strength, organic sensuality and sexuality. If you couldn’t make it to your spinning class today, get to it tomorrow and enjoy a slice of chocolate cake today. Trust that you are exactly where you are meant to be and feel good about yourself in your own body.

At its core, fitness is a mental challenge and conquering it shows you have passion and hope. So for the new year, I dare you to stand straighter, walk lighter, breathe deeper and feel better than ever before.

Helen Kling Oil Painting 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780 hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@ yahoo.com www.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fantastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and

hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

listings

sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs November through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com info@eccsaigon.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

Salsa Dancing at La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 www.salsaigon.com salsaigon@gmail.com Six-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm).

Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request.

Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW Xperience Parkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 28/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999 The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Christophe Guillemin Tel: 0909 365525 azia_shop@yahoo.fr www.azia-shop.com French fitness instructor offers his training assistance both at home or in your gym to help with everything from weight loss to muscle building. Also does cardio training sessions at An Phu swimming pool on Saturday at 11 am.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319 www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Daphne Chua Tel: 012 6662 6467 yogadaphne@gmail.com www.daphnechua.com Classes taught by a Yoga Alliance certified teacher from Singapore that focus on breathing and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to perfectly balance body and mind. Hatha, Restorative and Vinyasa classes are offered in group and private sessions.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from USD $90 per month.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

Hollywood Fitness World H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 Tel: 3826 4639 One of the latest & best workout environments in the city, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. Personal training is offered.

Erick Tony Varin, Fitness and Swimming Instructor Tel: 0939 026 540 Erickforcearca@hotmail.com French instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment.

Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and AquaAerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

Michelle Lloyd Yoga Tel: 0909 64 8193 michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200 certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programs available. Contact Michelle for more information on her current schedule and special events.

Live healthy!

December is healthy living month at International SOS

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Threemonth peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Looking ahead to the New Year

…planning your resolutions?

• Thinking of getting fitter?

• Thinking of giving up smoking?

• Need your medications reviewed?

• Want to have your health checked, without a load of tests?

Friendly helpful medical advice tailored to you and your family.

Come and see us, we can help.

To make an appointment, call our clinics: HCMC: 08 3829 8424

Vung Tau: 064 385 8776

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Hanoi: 04 3934 0666

Patricia Romero, ERYT200 Phu My Hung, An Phu Tel: 090 387 2832 saigonease@yahoo.com Alignment-based yoga classes that infuse elements from the Ashtanga and Iyengar traditions. Group and private classes. Also specialising in therapeutics and restorative yoga. Patricia has been teaching yoga in Saigon since 2002.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon Fitness Club New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa. Star Fitness Gym Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 This 1,600sqm gym is apparently the biggest in Vietnam. Has a good range of machines for any type of workout.

Membership involves one time entry fee plus monthly subscriptions and gives free access to regular fitness classes.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza Fitness Centre 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Yoga Living 95 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 098 880 4598 info@yogaliving.com.vn www.yogaliving.com.vn Yoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be selfmade by members.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get together and enjoy the sport while making new friends.

Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outlying provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played

every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009yard course is an enjoyable challenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South Golf Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7 Tel: 5411 2001 sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vn Nine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months.

Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports Academy League Tel: 093 215 3502 greg@saigonsportsacademy.com www.saigonsportsacademy.com 12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult division with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country Club Long Thanh My Village, D9 www.vietnamgolfcc.com This facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Happy new year

Phun Runner info@phun-run.com Social running group that meets Saturdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior Expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speaking foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

(*) More information, please contact consultant or www.en.marianna.com.vn

Let our doctors take care of you

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced.

Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 Vietnam Hobby Brewers hobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.com www.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tl Small group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

X-Rock Climbing Phan Dinh Phung Sport Centre 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 6278 5794 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

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listings

health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE American Chiropractic Clinic 8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A chiropractic, physiotherapy, foot care clinic staffed by American-trained chiropractors speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Treats back pain, neck pain, knee pain, also specializing in sports injuries, manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

COSMETIC TREATMENT Cao Thang Lasik & Aesthetic Clinic 135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehensive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, costing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes.

English spoken. Open seven days a week.

FV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery 45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 6167 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com International-standard cosmetic procedures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton International Clinic Suite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1 Tel: 3823 8680 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0918 749 204.

Koseikai Dental Clinic 3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Tel: 3910 6255

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info@koseikai.com.vn www.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

questions for the coiffeur

Starlight Dental Clinic Dr. Philippe Guettier & Associates 2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222 doe.linh@gmail.com With 10 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnamese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Anthony George for London Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building 14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475 www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair Studio Saigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378 Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Singapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

MEDICAL

CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre

Of Cuts and Volume

By Lloyd Morgan Q: What cutting methods does a stylist have in their arsenal and when are they best used?

A: A hair stylist will enlist any number of cutting methods, depending on the desired outcome and in most cases, more than one technique will be used.

Uniform layers are the same length and sit evenly across the head. Graduated layers, on the other hand, fall at different lengths from short to long. To achieve this look, the stylist will cut the hair at various angles, including convex, concave, horizontal, left and right diagonal.

All cuts have one or more of these angles; the real art though is fine-tuning the method by either point thinning or texturising. Point thinning involves cutting the ends of the layers to reduce weight and allow the hair to bounce up. Texturising involves cutting the layers into smaller sections to give a more ‘choppy’ effect.

The basic one layer bob is a great example of a do that uses all the cutting methods mentioned above. In this style, the hair lies flat with no movement except on the outside line.

That, of course, is just one style; there are countless others and it is best to speak with your stylist to decide what works best for your particular needs. Depending on your hair

type—fine, thin, straight, wavy or curly—and how your locks react to humidity, for example, will dictate the stylist’s plan of attack.

Q How I can add more body to my fine hair?

A: I’ll give you a few tips but it will depend on how much time you want to spend on your hair and how handy you are with it. First, after washing your hair, make sure the conditioner does not go on the root area as that will add weight to it. Blow dry your hair about 60 percent and comb mousse through it using a wide-tooth comb, and not your fingers, as this ensures even application of the product. Put your head upside down, and using your hands blow dry your hair and once dry, throw your head back up and move your hands through your hair, upwards and backwards. Spray your hands with hair spray, bring your head back down, and rub your head with your fingertips much like a scalp massage. This helps increase volume in your hair as the hairspray gives the roots extra life while the mousse thickens the shaft.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard checkups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND. Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures

and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

New Pet Hospital 53 Dang Dung St, D1 Tel: 6269 3939 This veterinary hospital is equipped with the state-of-the-art equipment including digital X-ray machine, color-ultrasound machine, inhalation anesthetic system and blood analyzer. It also provides boarding and grooming services.

SKINCARE Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 www.vn.avon.com HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 31 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Marianna Medical Laser Skincare 149A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel:3526 4635 www.en.marianna.com.vn Professional Laser Clinic in Ho Chi Minh City, Marianna owns the excellent experts in Aesthetic Medicine and the modern technologies such as Laser, Botox, Filler and all solutions can help you more beautiful and younger day by day.

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments

SPAS

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-ofthe-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath.

Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care.

Authentic Spa at Thao Dien 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 6453 Located on the banks of the Saigon River, offering day spa and fitness facilities with a riverside pool.

Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes.

Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

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SSIS: An Education That Opens Doors To The Future.

listings

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created.

Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, Tan Phong Ward, District 7, HCMC, Vietnam Telephone: (84-8) 5413-0901 - Fax: (84-8) 5413-0902 Email: info@ssis.edu.vn - www.ssis.edu.vn

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

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Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

CLOTHES Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton.

Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel.

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore.

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten.

Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza.

La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age.

Prices are reasonable.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224

222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307 High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088 www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2

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ask auntie emily

Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

German International School 257 Hoang Van Thu , Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 info@giss.vn / www.giss.vn A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. The language program is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School.

Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

Policing Parents

By Emily Huckson Dear Auntie Em: My threeyear-old and I are friends with our neighbour whose child is the same age as mine. They came over for a visit the other day and things were going very well until we witnessed our little guest grab a toy from my daughter and run off with it. I was hoping her mother would step in but—surprise!— she did nothing. In such situations do I to let it go or swoop in to restore the toy?

- Unsure Dear Unsure: As tempting as it may be to discipline the other child, there could be consequences such as your neighbour asking you to mind your own business. At worst, the kids could witness two grown adults defending their young, and the result might be ugly.

Is there ever a time or place to discipline other people’s kids? And does it matter who those people are—strangers, friends or relatives?

The basic rule of thumb is: Don’t do it. Especially when it comes to friends and relatives, the fallout can poison relationships for a long time.

But like all rules, this one has exceptions. Most parents agree it’s OK if the situation calls for immediate action—in the case of a physical fight

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or dangerous situation, for example. It may also be OK if you’ve been given permission from the child’s parent or caregiver to step in. But be aware that each situation is unique and may call for a different approach.

While you say both of you were watching, that doesn’t necessarily mean you were both actively observing. There is a chance your friend didn’t really see what her daughter had done. In that case, bring it to her attention and say out loud, so the children can hear, “Oh Dear! Your daughter just grabbed a toy from my daughter and ran away with it…what can we do to make it right?”

I am a big promoter of ‘over speak’. This means speaking in proximity of the children to an adult (and not speaking to the children—making it as if the children ‘accidentally’ overheard the conversation).

I have found, with this age, I get better results when using 'over speak' with other adults, rather than directly speaking to them. Two to three year olds are very curious, usually ‘don’t miss a beat’ and are really tuned in to what adults say amongst themselves.

Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s longterm strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia).

Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/ extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a

large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extracurricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222 enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2 Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999 A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

Vinpearl Games Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Features fun and games for a wide range of ages. Air hockey, sports games and traditional arcade video games and a small children’s play place.

PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear. Also has a concession at An Phu Supermarket.

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of handmade fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more.

The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305

Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMC Tel: 3824 2118 International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950 Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and consumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag. iCenter 142A Vo Thi Sau, D3 Tel: 3820 3918 Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accessories and audio. English-speakers on staff.

Honours Apple service plans.

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Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

finance

Phong Vu Computer 264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3933 0762 www.vitinhphongvu.com The biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Bye Bye 2010

By Paul McLardie I was talking to a friend who runs the Saigon office of one of the major shipping agents in Vietnam about the last year and how our respective businesses have coped during 2010. One of the things we agreed on was how it has not been easy lately for businesses in Vietnam. With the change in the dollar price, the instability of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), and the general conditions of carrying out business, it's been a bit rough.

This is not surprising, and it's not just two mates talking over a coffee at his office. The World Bank has carried out an investigation into which economies are the easiest to do business in.

Vietnam came in at number 78, between the Bahamas and China. Vietnam placed well above the supposedly more developed countries such as the Russian Federation and Italy, but well behind the local competition such as Thailand (19) and Singapore (1). The good news is that where Vietnam competes for attention to gain FDI, its neighbours are lagging well behind: Cambodia (147), Laos (171), Indonesia (121), Philippines (148).

While Vietnam lags behind in the ease of setting up and starting a business, it has recently made good strides in

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areas such as getting credit and trading across borders.

My friend and I agreed that the new year will be easier than 2010. The fluctuations in the price difference between the dong and dollar should lessen and with the government looking at the possibility of opening up the local gold market to imports, this should lessen the requirements of the black market.

Banks in Vietnam are required to hold U.S. dollars.

At present, we all know that the dong is not a transposable currency on the world markets so there is a reliance on U.S. dollars. The more people use the banks (and black market less), even if it is just for exchanging dollars, the less panic and runs on gold the economy will have.

Support the Vietnamese economy by using banks that you feel you can trust. Not only will it be safer for you, but it will also help alleviate the crippling inflation that has been a large part of the problems in 2010. It helps the economy and hopefully will leave you with a few more dong left in your pocket after your trip to the supermarket.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com

Embers-Asia Ltd. Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163 www.embers-asia.com With a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating and delivering high-performance training and development solutions for corporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Flamingo Corporate Services Tel: 2217 1662 Email: info@flamingovn.com www.flamingovn.com Specializes in business immigration, providing services like visas, work and resident permits, police clearance, APEC cards, authentication and legalization of work experience certificates and degrees in Vietnam and abroad.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Indochine Councel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV) info@imiv.org www.imiv.org The International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that

promotes excellence in business leadership and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Phuong Nguyen Consulting TPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391 www.pnp-consulting.com Specializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. International Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Global intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

Saigon-Expat Tax Services 23 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 0938 220 255 luckyviv8888@yahoo.com An IRS-enrolled agent specialising in the preparation of U.S. personal income tax returns. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

Star Management Limited 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3897 2765 www.starlimited.com Business advisory services for companies investing in Vietnam, business project advancement and a range of business development services.

TMF Vietnam Company Limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113 Fax: 3910 0590 www.tmf-group.com With headquarters in Amsterdam and Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Asian Fish 34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Boutique-style arts and crafts store sell-

ing locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Products include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Chau Loan 213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991 Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma 175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488 www.dogmavietnam.com Located upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propaganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique 15 Nguyen Thiep, D1 Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Sapa 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Offers a better selection of hill tribe handicrafts than most of its rivals.

Concentrates mainly on the hand-woven clothing of the indigenous tribespeople of the region. There is also a line in ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shoes and the standard range of silk wraps and bags.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home

appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993 One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room.

The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

El Gallery 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306 Traditional decor with a modern twist.

Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accessories from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

Esthetic 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371/7372 Fax: 3514 7370 esthetic@vnn.vn www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1

Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor 41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284 137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6304/5 Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

The Lost Art 31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3829 0134 Extensive product range as well as

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comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

Thien An Furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 5650 A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Indochine Counsel Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com Business law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward investment, and securities & capital markets.

Limcharoen, Hughes and Glanville Havana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000 www.limcharoen.com Full service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING Caodong Design Boutique 37bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 207L Vo Thi Sau, D3 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Spanking new store with a range of beautiful items ranging from interesting lighting with decorative table lamps with handpainted paper shades and some lovely leather boxes and gift ideas.

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation. Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon. Shops selling authentic Zeus helmets are located on Pham Hong Thai near Ben Thanh Market.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School.

Affords a great view over the Saigon River.

Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Chamber Property Consultants Tel: 0168 349 9991 www.chamberproperty.com

Chamber Property Consultancy has more than 100 houses and flats available for rent in HCMC. Contact them today for more information.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

EasySaigon.com www.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC. InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel. 3744 2222 A riverside complex of internationalstandard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped healthclub.

The Nest Tel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence) Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong) laurence@thenest-vietnam.com thuong@thenest-vietnam.com www.thenest-vietnam.com Real estate agent maintains a wellorganized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193

www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village 523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249 www.saigonvillage.vnn.vn Fully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC. Savills Viet Nam Level 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Fax: 3823 9880 Hotline: 0917470058 leasing@sherwoodresidence.com www.sherwoodresidencecom Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

Established since 2001 Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,...

Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order More than 10 years experience Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where

RECRUITMENT First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Recruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

TMF Vietnam Saigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222 hang.bui@tmf-group.com www.tmf-group.com With more than 3,300 professionals working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing,

cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848 aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Asian Tigers Transpo International Room 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484 Tel: 3945 0891 matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.com www.asiantigersgroup.com International moving agency, homesearch, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONERY Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a onestop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist, HCMC Tel: (84 8) 3514 7371 / 7372 – Fax: (84 8) 3514 7370 Hot line: Ms. Nhat Thu Director - 0903 849 232 Email: esthetic@vnn.vn Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com

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listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Integrity at Work

By Gary Woollacott Up until a couple of days before writing this column, I was struggling to come up with a topic. Then an unexpected resignation in the Thailand office put me into business recovery mode where I had to go through hundreds of emails to check that everything had been properly followed up on, filed in the right places, or deleted if it was no longer useful.

What I discovered during that task was unexpected: a series of emails with another colleague (at that stage still employed) trashing the company and its image, mocking me and my business efforts.

I wasn’t pleased, as you can imagine, and although I have very thick skin, it was still upsetting. Luckily I had a three-day business trip immediately thereafter and this gave me a chance to plan my move, without any emotion coming into it—which may have happened had I reacted immediately.

I’m old enough not to worry too much what people think about me (we can't be friends with everyone, after all) and we don't have to like people to be able to work with them.

However, it is totally unacceptable to have these exchanges on the company’s email.

When your employer owns the hardware and the software that you use every day, it has a perfect right to inspect

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its property at any time it chooses. So if you are using your work email to trash your employer and/or your boss and you get found out, then expect to be fired on the spot.

Most people’s contracts have a clause about terminating employment without notice in the event of misconduct or where there has been a breach of professionalism—and that is exactly what happened, much to the person’s surprise. He was asked to leave immediately, only pausing to take his personal belongings and that was it. We had changed his passwords so that nothing could be altered within our system—and then reading his old emails provided another set of shocking surprises: we are better off without him. It was very poor behaviour for someone who was entrusted to develop business for the company. Now he doesn't have a job. Don't let that be you.

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the Chief Representative for Opus Executive Search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or gary@ opusasia.net. Opus is an associate of Horton International.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery.

Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

Bally Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Deanh Jewellery Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039 Gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Therese Jewellery Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1 www.theresejewelry.com Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything

from diamond earrings to gold and silver wedding rings. Of special note is the selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes, with the larger ones costing USD $250.

The friendly staff speak excellent English.

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko

Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND.

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local

Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory.

Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Mekong Creations specialises in unique locally produced household and gift items, including papier mache, silk, bamboo, and water hyacinth products. Mekong Creations also produces items for luxury French brand Terre d’Oc and has permission to sell these designs locally.

Mekong Creations is a project of parent NGO Mekong Plus, that supports community development programmes in remote villiages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

The key objective is to generate employment for women. All profits from products sold are returned to the villages. Mekong Creations focus is to provide rewarding employment, increase family incomes and improve conditions for children in these remote communities.

Our producers are trained in production techniques for their field and supported in design and marketing by Mekong Plus.

All products are made in the villages allowing more time to be spent with families.

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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Lu.Xu.Bu 320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati, this trendy shop is mostly given over to T-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more.

Miss Sixty & Energie 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets.

Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of T-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1.

Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including T-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, ac-

cessories along with home décor. Brands include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622 Small, friendly store stocking both men’s and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends. Bright and funky T-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh

Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both

the office and a night out. The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Dieu Thanh Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop also carries its own line of clothing. Once specialized in swimwear and cotton clothing but has expanded to sell business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts.

Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 2nd floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Australian designer Tracey Kociuruba creates intricately embellished statement pieces in her Easten-European inspired shop slash studio.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-and-match skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared towards the young and active urban female. The showroom has a wide collection, from casual clothing to office wear.

Ngan 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The Ngan collection includes high-quality evening gowns and swimwear made locally. Also stocks a new line of men’s casual wear.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to highrange prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328

Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery.

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femme fashion

New Year, New Fabulous You

By Adrian Nguyen Time flew by this year; it feels like I was writing this same column just yesterday. This time I’m dedicating this to all the women who have come up to me at parties to talk about trends. So let’s glam up for 2011.

Colour crush If you love pink, this will be your season—honeysuckle is the colour for spring. I’m loving this and I have been collecting all shades of it since autumn. You will see it in my wardrobe as well as in my collections. Coral and beeswax are also making it big so start refreshing your closet now.

Polka dot Just like stripes, polka dots have always been around but this season they’re coming on a little bit stronger—and we see them everywhere, from Giles to Moschino to Louis Vuitton. But if you don’t really have a Gisele Bundchen body then just wear one item with the dots or you’re gonna end up looking like your six-yearold daughter.

Tassel/fringe It’s making a big impact right now among fashionistas.

Choose the sleek and smooth form of fringe and if you don't want to look like a piece of furniture, then choose the tassels for your accessories like bags, shoes, or belts while reserving the fringe for your

dresses. Check out Gucci and Roberto Cavalli Spring 2011 for inspiration.

Seventies Will this decade ever be forgotten because it keeps reappearing on the fashion scene? Sometimes I feel like it was never really gone—I think it’s the most fabulous decade.

I shouldn't need to give you tips on this—don't we all know what the Seventies look like? Look out for my friend Boma, she’ll show you how do it right.

Bob/bang If the clothes can be seventies, then why not your hair?

The bob is back after a hiatus; this time it’s got a softer feel to it and more retro-inspired evidenced by the more rounded shape. It needs to be neatly blow-waved under a straight edge. And while you’re at it, give yourself bangs too. Look up Jane Birkin. They don't name a bag after her for no good-reason!

I hope these tips are enough to get you into the New Year with panache. If you bump into me around town, I’ll be more than happy to talk style and fashion. Have a very happy and stylish new year.

Adrian Nguyen is a designer and the owner of the Valenciani brand. Email your fashion questions to adrian.ngn@ gmail.com

Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles.

Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing. Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection.

Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories.

Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1, 2nd fl.

Tel: 3915 3242 www.traceykociuruba,com Eastern European-inspired fashion boutique with eclectic yet elegant designs with intricate hand-spun details—50sstyle jumpsuits with bustier necklines, silk kaftans and high-waisted shorts and skirts.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and party-ready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1

www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

TAILORS

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy.

In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

LINH‘S WHITE PLEASANT LIVING MINIMALISM 37 THAO DIEN (OPPOSITE AN PHU SUPERMARKET) 67 XUAN THUY - DISTRICT 2 PHONE: (84) - 62819863 - 62818488 E : linhnguyen@hbdecor.com.vn

- www.linhfurniture.com

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Photos by Fred Wissink and Ho Quang.

Saturday Night Vasco's Santarchy Pub Crawl Geisha Cafe Opening Movember @ Peaches

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boxoffice

The Tourist

Gulliver’s Travels

The Green Hornet

Tangled

Two of Hollywood’s biggest stars—Johnny Depp and Angelina Jolie—come together in The Tourist, an action packed movie that’ll have your head spinning judging by the trailer.

The sexy Jolie with her English accent gets involved with the sexy Depp, a tourist travelling through Europe on a train, and has a fling. Except that it’s not a fling, it’s the beginning of a nightmarish journey for Depp who’s inadvertently caught in a web of intrigue. It turns out that Jolie is being spied on by Scotland Yard, which wants access to the criminal Alexander Pierce and only has Jolie as its lead to him. Poor Depp is like collateral damage in all this—which provides for a fast-paced plot, fun action, good ole’ fashioned humour and all the stuff that a lazy Sunday afternoon action flick brings.

It doesn’t hurt that the most beautiful names in Hollywood, including Paul Bettany, lead the way.

Written in 1726 by Jonathan Swift, Gulliver’s Travels plot is perhaps one of the best known worldwide and one that filmmakers aren’t afraid to adapt. Here, Gulliver is played

by Jack Black, a rather brave choice given that Black usually plays buffoon-ish roles. Gulliver is a travel writer en route to Bermuda for an assignment when he gets tossed onto an itty bitty island inhabited by itty bitty people played by Jason Segal, Emily Blunt and Billy Connolly.

Because the plot is well known, you know what happens and since Black is involved, you can expect much of the hilarity he has come to be associated with—are we ready for Gulliver to be played by the lovable and big-bellied Black? It seems audiences are as first reviews showed that Black plays the role of a man worshipped as a god by the itty bitty people with aplomb.

The Green Hornet, a classic character has appeared in print, radio and film (and gave the world Bruce Lee) returns, this time played by Seth Rogen. The vigilante crime-fighter, whose real identity is only known by his faithful butler Kato (Jay Chou), is Britt Reid, a successful publisher by day, and crime-fighter at night in his Black Beauty vehicle (souped up machine complete with high tech gadgets that deliver knock out blows of varying degrees). The film also stars Cameron Diaz who plays Britt’s secretary, a smart and witty role she plays as well as can be expected. Screenwriters Rogen and Evan Goldberg who delivered great scripts with Superbad and Pineapple Express do so here as well with lots of hilarious dialogue between the hero and his sidekick. Michel Gondry, who directed the sweet Be Kind Rewind last, does a surprising job with this action flick, proving that he’s the right man for any job.

The classic story of Rapunzel gets a cheeky makeover in Disney’s 3D animation, Tangled. We all know the story of Rapunzel (played by Mandy Moore) a young princess whose hair has magical powers to rejuvenate for which reason a wicked witch (Donna Murphy) steals her and locks her up in a tower. Rapunzel aches to get out and see this real world and is, one day, startled by a surprise visitor, Flynn (Zachary Levi), a bandit on the run. They talk and enter a deal: he’ll escort her through the forest to the kingdom (and her family) after which she will return the items he has stolen which are in her possession. The couple are on the run from several people: the wicked witch, the goons Flynn is on the run from and the guards who want him too. It proves to be an entertaining adventure.

Opening Dates CINEMAS G: Galaxy www.galaxycine.vn

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

100 asialife HCMC

Gulliver’s Travels (January. 14) The Tourist (January. 31) The Green Hornet (January 21) 3D Tangled (January 28) Gulliver’s Travels (January 14) The Green Hornet (January 21)

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf Mary Ann in Autumn

Decoded

Doubleday

Spiegel & Grau

By Armistead Maupin Fans of the beloved Tales of the City stories that first appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle in the 1970s before becoming novels will be thrilled to hear of the latest one, Mary Ann in Autumn, where the folks of 28 Barbary Lane are reunited, older and wiser—after a 21-year hiatus. Now in their fifties and dealing with issues related to aging—attending to a partner with Alzheimer’s—or infidelity as Mary Ann discovers her husband having an affair with her life coach on Skype so Maupin hasn’t lost his touch of keeping things culturally and technologically relevant. There’s a great deal of hilarity that one has come to associate with the Tales series: absurd plotlines and eccentric but lovable characters who are now navigating through traditional relationships in difficult times. Can this novel appeal to a newer generation perhaps unfamiliar with Maupin’s earlier work? No. It’s strictly for those who have followed his work and are coming to terms with being unhip, much like the folks of Barbary Lane.

By Jay Z

It's easy to think Jay Z's book (memoir cum social commentary on rap) is as glossy as everything else is in his life. The man remains guarded about his marriage to Beyonce so you may be right to assume that he's selective in his decoding of himself. However, Decoded is a brutally honest account by the rapper of his early life at least. Learning about how he began to write down rhymes from an early age, to his working the streets as a crack dealer to becoming the man who has more hits than Elvis Presley in a compelling manner makes this a fascinating read. It is poignant to read about how he wanted to "dirty up" the blockbuster song "Empire State of Mind", which is the new anthem to the city like Frank Sinatra's "New York, New York" was. The book is worth reading for an insight into the evolution rap with mentions of the greats in the industry as seen by Jay Z as well a long footnote section to understanding his own lyrical process.

An Object of Beauty

Decision Point

Grand Central

Crown Publishers

By Steve Martin

Is there anything Steve Martin can’t do—and that too effortlessly? The comedian, actor, musician and accomplished writer weaves a tale around the art world in his new novel An Object of Beauty. Martin is no stranger to art as he owns an impressive collection, which includes Picasso, Seurat, Edward Hopper and de Kooning. Like his novella Shopgirl, Beauty centres around a young woman, Lacey Yaeger, but this heroine is fiercely ambitious in her quest to rise at Sotheby’s. We also meet artists, critics, buyers and are provided an entertaining insight into the art world, complete with artspeak. There is also a mystery element that runs through the plot, of an art theft that occurs, which adds pizzazz to the storyline. Martin’s observations on the art world today make for insightful reading—and given his background, there’s plenty of humour in it too. "New galleries sprouted in Chelsea overnight lacking only fungi domes," he astutely notes.

George W. Bush

The former president couldn't have chosen a better title to his autobiography as he waxes lyrical about major decision points in his life—from going sober in 1986, to running for government, to choosing to invade Iraq and why he made the choices he did during the financial crisis in 2008. He has ostensibly done this in the hope that his legacy is remembered as one that kept America safer—which is why he defends his decision to attack Iraq and sanction waterboarding suspects in Guantanamo Bay, to quote just two examples. He cites "being blindsided" by his government on frequent occasions, like Abu Ghraib. While it is poignant to read about the conversation between father and son during Christmas 2002, in which senior Bush tells junior about avoiding war, unless he has no other choice, there's still an impersonality to it. Perhaps the funniest moment in the book, is when he talks about taking his dog for a walk after retiring and having to pick up the poo himself.

asialife HCMC 101

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

title

artist

5 10 1 10 13 2

Ngan dieu cho em Dream Nho em Thuc tinh Quen di Dieu muon noi

4 NEW NEW 9

Doi thay Khi mua Den bao gio Phu xe

Tuan Hung Suboi Minh Vuong Ho Ngoc Ha Hoang Anh Khang Ha Chuong feat Tuan Messi Noo Phuoc Thinh Dong Nhi Tran Trung Duc Rap Soul

this last

title

artist

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Firework Raise Your Glass What's My Name?

The Time (Dirty Bit) Grenade Only Girl (In The World) Just the way you are We R Who We R Just A Dream Bottoms Up

Katy Perry P!nk Rihanna The Black Eyed Peas Bruno Mars Rihanna Bruno Mars Ke$ha Nelly Trey Songz Featuring Nicki Minaj

title

artist Black Eyed Peas Willow Ellie Goulding Rihanna Ft Drake Rihanna Far East Movement/ Cataracs/Dev X Factor Finalists 2010 Olly Murs David Guetta Ft Rihanna Nicole Scherzinger

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

US Top 10 week week 2 1 5 9 10 3 4 6 8 11

UK Top 10 this last

week week 1 2 3 4 5 6

6 NEW 2 8 7 5

The Time (Dirty Bit) Whip My Hair Your Song What's My Name Only Girl (In The World) Like A G6

7 8 9

1 4 9

Heroes Thinking Of Me Who's That Chick

10

3

Poison

102 asialife HCMC

Haruki Murakami

By Nora Lindstrom I don’t like science fiction or fantasy. I can gulp down novels at a rate of one a day, but these need to be anchored in reality and fact. At least that used to be the case until I came across Haruki Murakami.

The prolific Japanese writer blends fact with fiction like no other, writing novels and short stories so extraordinary yet at the same time so real that they make you doubt your own understanding of reality.

Take Hard-boiled Wonderland and the End of the World for example. Written in 1985, the novel is a dream-like fantasy that follows parallel narratives told in alternate chapters; one set in the surreal technology-powered world of the Hard-boiled Wonderland in which human brains store and encrypt data, while the other follows the narrator in End of the World, an equally fantastic place where inhabitants are not allowed to have shadows nor, it transpires, minds.

The two storylines eventually converge, concluding the mindboggling exploration of the mind, leaving the reader to question his or her own existence.

Murakami was 29 when he

wrote his first fiction novel, Hear the Wind Sing. His major breakthrough came eight years later in 1987, with the publication of Norwegian Wood, one of his less surreal books. The novel became a best-seller in Japan, the tale of love and loss attracting young readers in particular. In 2006, he received the Franz Kafka Prize for his magical yet down-to-earth novel Kafka on the Shore.

Despite his success, the reclusive author is considered a bit of a controversial figure in Japan. The country’s literary establishment is not keen on his tales that often explore themes of alienation and loneliness in Japanese society.

References to western culture, which permeate his works, also rile the purists.

Yet at a global level, he is loved. Widely expected to receive the Nobel Prize for Literature, he has been described as one of the world’s greatest living novelists. I certainly think he is. And I suspect there are other Murakami-fans in Cambodia too. Why else would several of the capital’s bookshops carry copies of books by the author, often for as little as US $3 a piece?

radar Luck of the Draw

chatroulette.com Chatroulette combines blind and speed dating, albeit across a computer screen. Similar to Skype, the website displays video and allows participants to speak or type to one another. The only difference: Chatroulette, as its name suggests, is a gamble. Hit play to see a live feed and then click next to trawl through countless random strangers from around the world. Some log in for a legitimate chat, others to play pranks. Beware though. You’re bound to see some nudity. Us AsiaLIFE staffers met with a young man from Tennessee, two Turkish lads, a couple drunken Brits and a dancing buffoon before seeing some full frontal action. It was a little disconcerting, to say the least. Aside from the depravity, Chatroulette is addictive, great for a laugh and provides a quick snapshot into the lives of others.

Life’s the Pits Today, I gave my ex-girlfriend two concert tickets to show her I still care about her and want to win her back. She sold them. FML

fmylife.com FMyLife is hilarious. People who’ve had beyond crappy days post their experiences on the website, giving visitors the opportunity to rate the anecdote (“I agree, your life sucks” or “You totally deserved it”). Divided into categories— love, money, kids, work, health, intimacy and miscellaneous—each spiel begins with the word “today” and ends with a short, yet effective “FML” (f**k my life).

Take this corker, written by a woman from Victoria, Australia: “Today, I discovered I am the ‘before picture’ in an Internet weight loss advert. FML.” Or the slightly more disgusting: “Today, I was playing around with my sister’s kitten. As a joke I put him underneath the sheets and farted. He attacked my nuts. FML.” A trek through FMyLife will make even the most downtrodden character feel better about themselves.

Snarky Snaps

peopleofwalmart.com People of Walmart documents the white trash (for lack of a more polite term) that roam through the massive American super centres dotted across the United States and Canada. A little mean, perhaps, but downright funny are the sneaky snaps taken of unsuspecting victims. Think a heavily overweight woman with protruding belly rolls from a skintight pink tank top, an elderly man wearing a hotdog hat, a granny towing a child through the aisles behind a scooter and a series of pantless wonders. It’s all class. The stories’ section is funny, too, and gives Walmart-goers a forum to share their own up close and personal experiences. The bunch behind the site have now released a book called Shop and Awe—a picture collection of Americans in their natural shopping habitat.

asialife HCMC 103

THE TWO OF US Loreto Vietnam Australia programme coordinator Trish Franklin shares a close bond with her student Nguyen Thanh Vinh—a young man who lost his sight as a baby.

They tell Beth Young their story. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Vinh

Trish I came to Nguyen Dinh Chieu School—it’s a school for blind and disabled children in District 10—to teach English 12 years ago. When I first came to Vietnam, Loreto built a very small school with only two classrooms in Hoc Mon District. While we were waiting for funds to build another I decided to contribute part of my time. I came down here and asked the then principal if she would like me to teach English.

She said yes straightaway When I first taught the blind children I was a little nervous because I didn’t know how to teach colour, for example.

I learned quickly that they already know these terms in Vietnamese, so you teach them as words more than something you see. To help them imagine, I say red colour is hot and blue colour is cool and green colour is very fresh.

I started teaching Vinh when he was seven. The first time I met him I thought he was such a cute little boy; he was so sweet and had this confidence

104 asialife HCMC

about him, this spirit. It looked to me like he was sure he would be successful in life.

He has continued to work really hard and now his English is amazing.

My fondest memories of Vinh are from when he was very, very small. He was so cute, with such courage and strength.

I took many photos of him because I thought he was the most beautiful little boy. And he ran everywhere, even though he couldn’t see: around the playground, to the toilet, over to have a drink. Sometimes he’d crash into something, but it never frightened him. He was always having fun—such a mischievous little boy.

He was great with his friends, too, pulling them out into the yard, almost as if to say, “Get on with life. We’re blind, but we don’t care I really do remember him as that little boy and I can’t believe that he’s now 16. When I look at him I feel so proud. He’s worked so hard and he’s a very good young man.

When I was 19 months old I was standing drinking milk from a glass when I fell. The glass broke and hurt my eyes. My father took me to the hospital and the doctors took the glass out but after that, I was blind. Now I can’t see anything but a dark red colour and very big things, but I can feel. I wish I could see, but I was a child when I was blinded and I’m used to it now.

I came to live at Nguyen Dinh Chieu School when I was in Year 1. There are 250 children at the school and 85 boys and girls are lodgers. My family live in Long An Province, which is about 60 kilometres away. I see them once every two months. I used to miss them lots—I cried so much the first time I had to sleep at school—but now I’m used to it.

I’ve lived here for a long time so I think they’re used to it, too.

Now my school is my home and my friends are my brothers and sisters, like my family.

When I first met Miss Trish I thought she was very happy and loved children very much.

I felt so comfortable with her.

I felt surprised that she could speak Vietnamese. I thought her pronunciation wasn’t so good.

Now it’s better, but it’s not perfect yet [laughs].

She taught me to speak and sing in English. My best memory is in Year 3 or 4 when Miss Trish took my hand and told me that I was very beautiful in English. I felt so happy and hoped that my English would improve so I could talk with native speakers.

I also remember Miss Trish bringing me back many gifts after visiting Australia. She bought me candy and toy kangaroos. Many of the Australian teachers who work here have bought me kangaroos, so now I have six!

Now I’m in Year 11. Next year I will have to stop sleeping at school and find my own place to live. I’m a little scared but I think I must practice living by myself. I want to continue studying at university and I want to become an English teacher. Miss Trish made me love English.

New York City

It was a strange sight: a Tiger Beer bottle perched on the coffee table in my Brooklyn apartment.

For a moment, I thought I’d been ambushed, that I was the target of a sloppy plot to kidnap and repatriate me to Vietnam.

(Kevin, are you there? Dean? Trav?

John? Justin? Matt? Come out.)

It turns out there was a simpler explanation: my new roommate Ben has a taste for the Southeast Asian suds. I shouldn’t have been so surprised; one can procure just about any gustatory artefact from the bodegas of the five boroughs. But to see that blue-and-gold feline stalking me more than 9,000 miles from

where I’d last faced him shook me.

It was just another sign that my East Coast and Far East lives were overlapping, more proof that I’d crossed over into the Vietnamese version of the Twilight Zone.

Just two weeks after departing Tan Son Nhat Airport, I had my first Saigon reunion.

With my good friend Linh in Toronto visiting family and my former Cao Thang housemate Erin having relocated to L.A., we joined a crowd that included San Art co-founders Dinh Q. Le and Tiffany Chung at the Museum of Modern Art. Officially we were there to see

Dinh’s exhibit, The Farmers and the Helicopters, but we soon retired to a nearby restaurant, just as we’d sometimes done after openings at San Art. We descended on that unfortunate Chinese establishment, rowdily commandeering an expanse of flattops, and proceeded to do what Saigonites do best: take our good old time. Management was none too pleased.

The following night, Linh, Erin and I connected with Maggie and Brendan, the dynamic duo behind AsiaLIFE’s illustrated Wildlife issue from March 2010. Our meeting point? A seedy karaoke joint in Chinatown where we belted out

80s classics beneath the glow of a retro reel of made-for-karaoke scenes. Toss in a few shots of Halong Bay and we could have been at the Saigon Hotel.

These first few weeks I’ve lived in a sort of limbo between Saigon and New York. But life goes on. I’ve begun to do the hard stuff: adjust to the cold, stop calling soccer “football”, and—perhaps hardest of all— find an East Coast Vietnamese restaurant that approximates the tastes and textures of home.

The hunt, thus far, is not going well. If I get really desperate for a taste of HCM City though, I’m pretty sure Tiger Beer tastes the same here.

Sincerely.

Tom DiChristopher

asialife HCMC 105

pub quiz 1) What is the city of Madras now known as?

2) How is Saloth Sar better known?

3) Which musician changed his name to a symbol?

4) Which European country changed from left to right hand traffic at 5am on Sep. 3, 1967?

5) What did Richard Starkey change his name to?

Regional Capitals 6) Name a Canadian capital with a colour in its name.

7) Which Australian state capital was named after a German born queen?

8) What is New York State’s capital?

9) In England what is the county town of Hampshire?

10) What is the provincial capital of Mondulkiri?

Back in Black 11) Whose television career began in the 15th century and ended during World War I? 12) Which is the only football team to only win the English Premier League title once?

13) The Black Gate is the only large entrance to which fictitious land?

14) What are Canadian company Research In Motion famous for?

15) In Germany it is called Blutwurst. What is it called in the U.K.?

begins in Putney?

25) Which game begins with an auction?

Which Cities?

26)

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28)

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Managing Editor: Muna Khan muna@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy Editor: Beth Young beth@asialifehcmc.com

Production: Nguyen Kim Hoa nguyenhoa@threesixfive-days.com

Contributing Editor: Brett Davis brett@asialifehcmc.com

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I've got the Blues Again

Beginnings 21) In which country does the Mekong begin?

22) In which swimming stroke do competitors begin in the pool?

23) In which city did the Velvet Revolution begin?

24) Which annual sporting event 106 asialife HCMC

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9

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1) Chennai 2) Pol Pot 3) Prince 4) Sweden 5) Ringo Starr 6) Yellowknife or Whitehorse 7) Adelaide 8) Albany 9) Winchester 10) Senmonorom 11) Edmund Blackadder 12) Blackburn Rovers 13) Mordor 14) Blackberry 15) Black Pudding 16) Deacon Blue 17) Billie Holliday 18) Peter Sellers 19) New South Wales 20) Blue Nile 21) Tibet (China) 22) Backstroke 23) Prague 24) University Boat Race 25) Contract Bridge 26) Berlin 27) Kep 28) Kula Lumpur 29) New York 30) Pisa

16) "Real Gone Kid" was the first top ten hit for which group?

17) Who is the subject of the film Lady Sings The Blues?

18) In The Goon Show, who provided the voice for Bluebottle?

19) The Blue Mountains are in which Australian state?

20) Which river originates at Lake Tana in Ethiopia?

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Pub Quiz Answers

Changes

FESTIVE PACKAGE US$ 310++/ night for Hill Top Villa US$ 360++/ night for Beach Pool Villa US$ 570++ / night for Water Villa or Rock Villa US$ 1160++ / night for Presidential Villa (It is subject of 5% service charge and 10% tax)

Including 1 night stay at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Daily Breakfast Buffet Astronomy Evenings with "Dr Parag" our visiting astronomer during Chinese New Year

Shuttle Bus Airport & boat transfers A bottle of sparkling wine upon arrival Refreshing welcome drink & fruit basket Complimentary services: Snorkeling & Kayaking

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Terms & Conditions Stay validity from 16 Jan 2011 to 28 Feb 2011 Based on twin share and minimum 2 nights Applicable for Vietnamese nationals, Expatriates & Asian residents only

For reservations, please call (+84) 58 3 524 268 or email to reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com

USD 225 net/ Mandarin Suite/ Night.

Validity: 10 Jan 2011; Validity: untilFrom 30 November 2010 except 1 - 7 Feb 2011 & 30 Apr - 2 May 2011 Rate is valid for Local Residents and Vietnamese living oversea visiting Vietnam.

Terms & Conditions Apply.

Please ask for Weekday Special Offers.