AsiaLIFE HCMC 31

AsiaLIFE volume 31

26 front

6 News & Events 16 Dispatches

Mandara Villas Dalat 56 Moped Memories

20 Radar

58 East and West Intersect

24 Photo Essay: Cityscapes Rising UK stars Melodramas sit down for Q&A to talk about promoting themselves in Southeast Asia. We head down Tran Hung Dao to explore culture, history and dodgy old cinemas. And in this month's photo essay, we feature two British International School students' winning work for the Shoot Nations International Youth Photogragraphy Competition.

AsiaLIFE goes behind the design to find out how 17 country residences dating to the 1920s and 30s became Ana Mandara Dalat Villas. Moped memories are revisited through a unique collection of French Mobylletes and Motobecanes. In the fashion pages, East and West intersect at local boutique ER-Couture.

back

62 The List 104 Spotlight

28 Gorillas on the Cliffs

106 Street Guide

33 Surprise Me

112 The Essay

36 Images of Istanbul

114 Pub Quiz

40 The Long Road to the New Nha Trang In this year's travel issue, Adam Bray treks into the forests of Rwanda for an encounter with Mountain Gorillas. AsiaLIFE columnist and James Beard Award-winning food writer Richard Sterling spins three vignettes about first encounters of the culinary kind. Christian Berg trains his lens on Istanbul. Tom DiChristopher heads to Nha Trang to find out what's in store for the beach destination.

food

54 Behind the Design: Ana

18 Q&A with Melodramas 21 Street Smart: Tran Hung Dao

on the cover

style & design

To sign off, we capture a glimpse of HCM City nightlife; preview what's new in film, music and literature; and challenge your brain power with the Pub Quiz. In this month's essay, Brett Davis wonders whether it's time to excuse himself from the annual birthday bash.

46 Chef's Recommendation 48 Kingdom of Brew 50 Sterling's Saigon 51 Pasha 52 Ganh 53 Gringos

Hoi An culinary pioneer Trinh Diem Vy schools us on authentic Hoi An cuisine. AsiaLIFE Cambodia's Nora Lindstrรถm reports on Phnom Penh's first pilsner micro-brewery. Richard Sterling has a remarkable encounter in pursuit of a hot dog. Plus, we check out Turkish at Pasha, Nha Trang seafood at Ganh and SoCal Mexican at Gringos.

Cover Art Direction 365 Days Creative Studio Photography Fred Wissink Model Ben Spink McCarthy

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note from the editor

Tom DiChristopher

There have been a few occasions in the last two years when what I’ve written in this space has had little to do with what’s on the cover. The first time was in April 2009 when art director Darra Conlon departed after two years with AsiaLIFE. The next time, it was again to bid adieu to an art director, Jennifer Watson, who also spent two years with AsiaLIFE. This will be another of those months. In November 2008, I stepped into the managing editor position, taking the reins just before our first annual travel issue.

Perhaps it’s appropriate then that this month’s issue—the 2010 travel issue—will be the last to feature my name in the masthead.

For the last two years, it’s been my pleasure to work alongside a group of young, passionate creatives and writers to transform AsiaLIFE from a city guide to a features-led publication. Our general director Hanh Nguyen and creative director Jonny Edbrooke put a lot of trust in us, and I hope they and our readers feel we’ve delivered on their faith.

Throughout the better part of my tenure I guided the editorial

direction of AsiaLIFE with Thomas Maresca and Ginny Becker. I couldn’t have asked for a better team of editors. As a writer, there were stories I sometimes wanted to tackle myself. As an editor, I knew that there were few writers in HCM City that could take those stories from concept to completion better than Tom. His work for AsiaLIFE was consistently of the highest quality and integrity.

For her part, Ginny brought such enthusiasm to the job that she transformed the culture of the office and inspired us month after month to challenge ourselves.

In a short time, she became an indispensable asset to our editorial department. What I’ve learned from both of them is immeasurable.

I have no doubt that AsiaLIFE will continue to live up to the standard our readers have come to expect. Senior designer April Hunt and art director Johnny Murphy have more than delivered upon the precedent set by Darra and Jennifer. And much like Ginny, deputy editor Beth Young has reinvigorated the editorial department with her energy and dedication. As I write this, we are

Nora Lindström From Finland, through the UK and Canada to Cambodia, Nora’s accent betrays her nomadic lifestyle. Swapping a job turning the compost at an organic farm in Wales for work with human rights in Phnom Penh, Nora arrived in Southeast Asia in 2007. As associate editor of AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh, she follows the latest developments and oddities in the Kingdom of Wonder. Most recently, she was rendered speechless by plans to build a 555m tall tower in the country’s capital.

eagerly awaiting the arrival of new managing editor Muna Khan, who is no stranger to HCM City, having served as managing editor of East and West in the past.

A big thank you to everyone who has contributed to making AsiaLIFE what it is today.

Ode to “the” Teej with love from the AsiaLIFE team

We’ll miss “the” Teej’s huge vocabulary, encyclopaedic knowledge of grammar and ability to sound smart at all times. (“I hate that ice cream. It’s frivolous and hard to eat.”) Syntax aside, he’s the manliest cat lover we’ve ever had the pleasure to work with and his arse always looks great, thanks to his ability to select only the best butt-sculpting jeans (she said that). He’s the perfect wingman, a proponent of sidebars and always ensures the magazine comes out in the most “expeditious” manner. His irrational fear of scrunchies is a little strange, but so we hear, all great writers have their quirks.

Good luck TJ. We know you’ll do great.

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

102010 ISSUE46

Peter Stuckings Peter is an Australian who moved to HCM City in 2006 to kick-start a life-change from 9-to-5 suit to intrepid travel photographer.

He now spends most of his time on the road around Southeast Asia shooting editorial and commercial assignments for publishers and multinationals. In more recent times his work has taken him to places as far afield as Rwanda in central Africa, where he shot the images in this issue. Peter’s website is at www.indochinaimages.com.

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asialife Cambodia 1

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

Electrolux designers are inspired by your passions.

Electrolux Design Department Ola Lantz

Your passion for making the most impressive meals is what inspires us to design better hoods and cooker hobs. We take the time to deeply understand our consumers’ homes and lifestyles before we begin, creating new appliances that win your trust, and win you compliments.

View our online catalogue at www.electrolux.co.th Founded in Sweden

volume 31

NEWS Eco-Friendly Les Vergers du Mekong Celebrates 10th Anniversary To celebrate its 10th anniversary, all-natural food company Les Vergers du Mekong, is releasing a redesigned range of juices and nectars under its Le Fruit brand. The revamped line communicates the health benefits of Le Fruit juices and their exclusive Vietnam origin. The company has recently launched a best-selling juice: a pure premium juice made of squeezed pomelo from the Mekong Delta.

Created in 2000, Les Vergers du Mekong quickly outgrew its humble beginnings and built a new factory of 1,000sqm in 2004 in Can Tho, in order to be situated next to fruit growers.

Saigon Sports Academy Soccer League Doubles Up this Season

On September 18, Saigon Sports Academy launched its biggest football league yet, more than doubling in size and scope. This summer 16 youth and adult teams competed in the weekend league over the course of nine weeks. This fall’s league will run three months

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through December 12, with 36 teams taking to the pitch in pursuit of the championship title.

“We have a really great team working on the league to let people know about it,” says Greg Vanderford, league coordinator. “The name of the company is getting out. The message is starting to spread out on its own.”

Sponsored by Coors Light, Buddha Bar and Lego, the programme encompasses three leagues: Just for Kicks Mini Soccer for kids 4 to 7, 5-a-side Youth Soccer and the Coors Light International 5-a-Side Soccer League. All matches take place at Tao Dan Stadium at 1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua in District 1. Youth leagues play Sunday evenings from 6 to 8 pm, while the adult league convenes Saturday nights at 7 pm.

A 15 million VND prize is awarded to the winners of the adult league. Last year’s champs, Olympique Saigon, sponsored by AC Nielson and New World Hotel, are back to defend their title. For more information, email Greg Vanderford at greg@saigonsportsacademy. com.

AsiaLIFE HCMC Announced as Mekong Sessions Media Partner

AsiaLIFE HCMC has been announced as a regional media partner for Mekong Sessions with Leonard Cohen, the promoters responsible for bringing the famed Canadian poet, novelist and singer-songwriter to Phnom Penh next month.

"We’re very pleased to welcome AsiaLIFE HCMC on board as a media partner to the Mekong Sessions as we increasingly publicize the Leonard Cohen Phnom Penh benefit concert throughout the SE Asian region," says Mekong Sessions CEO Christopher Minko. "Vietnam, and HCMC in particular, is an important target market for the Sessions and AsiaLIFE HCMC is the perfect vehicle for building interest in and awareness of Phnom Penh as a live music venue.”

Caravelle Completes Wi-Fi Upgrade

The hotel recently completed a wireless upgrade that puts one of Vietnam’s most renowned heritage hotels at the absolute forefront of wireless innovation.

At present, Meraki, the company behind the upgrade, says conferences at the Caravelle can connect as many as 500 to 1,000 wireless users. Predicting other hotels will follow its lead, John Gardner, general manager, estimates the Caravelle will enjoy exclusivity in this regard for the next three to six months.

Today, the hotel’s technology supplier reports that 300 to 350 unique visitors are accessing the hotel’s wireless space daily.

Hon Tam Hotel & Resort Representative Office Opens in HCMC

Hon Tam Hotel & Resort in Nha Trang has officially opened its HCM City-based representative office at Level 1, 68 Le Loi, District 1. The office will provide customers with a reliable base to plan their holidays with the resort. Call 3822 0632 or email sales@hontamresort.vn.

New Skincare Line at The Body Shop

The Body Shop has introduced a new skincare range called Natrulift. The line, which will be available from this month, contains pomegranate, a

Exotissimo Travel Vietnam Official Agent for Leonard Cohen Concert

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PRE-SCHOOL PRIMARY SECONDARY www.rissaigon.edu.vn

Leonard Cohen, the Canadian legend, will be performing a unique concert at the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh on November 27. Exotissimo Travel Vietnam is proud to be acting as the event’s official travel agent. Exotissimo Travel agencies in the region will be selling tickets and making travel arrangements for the concert, which is expected to see fans fly from Hong Kong and Singapore to attend. A 10-percent discount on the published ticket price will be granted for bookings in conjunction with flights and/or hotels in Phnom Penh. For reservations and enquiries in Vietnam please contact Ms. Quynh Tien in HCM City on 5412 2761 or qtien@ exotissimo.com and Ms. Giang in Hanoi on 043718 5555 or giang@exotissimo.com. In Phnom Penh contact Ms. Theary on +855 2321 8948 or theary@exotissimo.com.

Women in Vietnam Diary on Sale

To celebrate the 100th International Women’s Day in 2011, the Women in Vietnam diary has been printed. The spiralbound photographic diary has been published as a tribute to the strength, determination and wisdom of Vietnamese women. The diary is on sale for 220,000 VND from Vietnam Quilts at 64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1. All proceeds will go to Vietnam Quilts, an organization that provides employment and opportunities to women in poor rural areas.

Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS) is one of the premier international schools in Ho Chi Minh City providing a high quality British/International education leading to the IB Diploma Programme. Students are able to develop their full potential in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment, capable of becoming leaders in the global community and experts in their chosen fields upon graduation. t #SJUJTI *OUFSOBUJPOBM $VSSJDVMVN UIBU FODPVSBHFT JOWFTUJHBUJWF MFBSOJOH BOE prepares students to become ‘life-long learners’ t %FEJDBUFE /BUJWF &OHMJTI 5FBDIFST GPS SFTQFDUJWF TVCKFDUT BOE BHF MFWFMT t .PEFSO 'BDJMJUJFT JO B MBSHF QVSQPTF CVJMU DBNQVT JO %JTUSJDU t &YUSB $VSSJDVMBS "DUJWJUJFT UISPVHIPVU UIF ZFBS t 2VBMJUZ DBUFSJOH TFSWJDF NFFUJOH UIF OFFET PG PVS JOUFSOBUJPOBM TUVEFOUT

WIN TICKETS TO LEONARD COHEN LIVE

This month AsiaLIFE has 10 tickets to give away to Leonard Cohen live in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

For your chance to get a pair simply name a silver sponsor partner of the concert. Find the answer at www.themekongsessions.com.

Email your answer to freetickets@asialifehcmc.com Results will be in next month’s issue of AsiaLIFE

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nutrient-rich fruit, and has been clinically proven to combat the signs of aging. The Body Shop is located at 87 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1. Visit www.thebodyshop.com.

New Vietnamese Group Lessons Begin Mid-October at Saigon Language School

From October 12, Saigon Language School (SLS) will begin a new Vietnamese Group Lesson. The course will run twice per week for 10 weeks with seven students per class.

SLS is located at 2 Truong Dinh, District 3, just in front of Tao Dan Park. Their focus is on teaching correct pronunciation and also instilling in foreigners a sense of Vietnamese culture and society. SLS offers Japanese language classes.

NYDC Adds Seafood to Menu Western casual dining restaurants chain, nydc, has rolled out a new lunch and dinner

menu, focusing on dishes from the deep. Eight new recipes have been added to the menu, with king prawns, salmon, squid and barramundi all featuring prominently, with prices starting at 129,000 VND. The new set is a complete threecourse meal with wide selection of eight main courses.

New CIS campus in Binh Chanh District.

On September 18, Canadian International School celebrated the opening of its new worldclass facilities in Binh Chanh District. The new campus is located in the Residential Quarter, 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh. Their Maple Center also launched the same day. The space has art, music and dance studios; gymnasium, auditorium and movie projection rooms; two swimming pools; a large track; and a soccer field. For more information or directions, call 5412 3456 or visit www.cis. edu.vn.

Nam Hai Earns Spot on Lonely Planet Top 10 List

When Lonely Planet revealed its top 10 dream business destinations recently, the elite collection included The Nam Hai in Danang for its “stunning villas” and proximity to the “Casuarina-brushed Montgomerie Links golf course.” High profile destinations like Hollywood, Ireland and Four Seasons Resort Maldives were among the other picks to make the prestigious list.

Situated on 35 hectares of landscaped tropical gardens overlooking the East Sea, The Nam Hai is an exclusive, allvilla property featuring 60 one-bedroom villas and 40 pool villas ranging from one to five bedrooms, each with its own infinity pool. Signature features of The Nam Hai include two gourmet restaurants; a tropical spa beside a lagoon; three beachfront swimming pools; four lighted hard court tennis courts; and a state-of-the-art boardroom that accommodates up to 50 people.

To increase its exposure, The Nam Hai opened a sales office in Hanoi at 60 Ly Thai To last month. For more information, contact Ms. Nguyen Thu Hang at 04 3930 6399 or email Hanoi.sales@thenamehai.com.

Bellany Gelato & Sorbet Makes Vietnam Debut

New Italian gelato and sorbet brand Bellany has been introduced to Vietnam. Made entirely from local fresh fruit, the recipes have been adapted to contain less fat and sugar.

Bellany will be distributed in upmarket restaurants, cafés and HORECA four- and five-star hotels. From October 1, Bellany will launch a home delivery service for Thao Dien, An Phu residents, which will be available between 4 pm and 9 pm. Delivery time is just 30 minutes. Bellany ice cream and sorbets comes in three packaging sizes: 125 ml, 450 ml and 2.8 litres and there are 15 flavours to choose from. Call 0122 774 3132 to order.

ABC International School Hosts Events to Raise Funds for Operation Smile

You’ll be safe in our hands Private aerial ambulance on 24hr standby within Vietnam

From September 6 to 9, the ABC International School held a number of events to honour the memory of one of their science teachers Mr. Michael Milsom, who passed away last year.

The purpose was to raise much-needed funds for Operation Smile—a charity that provides surgery for children with facial disfigurements. A free dress day was held and all members of the school community were encouraged to wear bright clothes that would bring a smile to their peers’ faces. Year 7 students held a sMMiley sale, where they sold items like bookmarks, jewellery and cakes made especially for the event. Grade 8 students used the school’s new laser cutting machine to make and sell engraved key rings. The events were concluded with the sMMile concert, a music extravaganza, which many of the school’s talented dancers and musicians participated in. In all, ABC International School raised USD $2,000 for Operation Smile, which they presented to the charity’s representative, Julie Robins.

Evacuation and Emergency Assistance • Our own airplane on 24 hour standby within Vietnam • Medical evacuations back to your own country, Bangkok or Singapore • Ambulance pick-up • Strong domestic network throughout Vietnam • Affiliation with NUH Singapore Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza: 34 Le Duan Street, District 1, HCMC For appointments and emergency care 24 hours: (84 8) 3822 7848

www.vietnammedicalpractice.com

Your health. Our care.

• Emergency Medicine • Medical Evacuations • General Practice • Internal Medicine • Pediatrics • Obstetrics & Gynecology • Orthopedic & Trauma Surgery • Cardiology • ENT • Tropical Medicine • Radiology • Imaging • Ambulance Service • In-house Laboratory • Acupuncture • First Aid Training • Child Birth Education • Saigon International Mother Baby Association • Medical Check-ups

Phnom Penh Events & Openings Download the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia at www.asialifeguide.com.

Sihanouk Hospital Benefit for Women

The Sihanouk Hospital Centre of HOPE is organizing an upscale dinner and fashion show gala

by Bloom Fashion on October 21. Aimed at raising funds for the hospital’s new women’s centre, the event will coincide with International Breast Cancer Month. With a mission to provide free medical care to the poor, Sihanouk Hospital Centre of HOPE has been operating in Cambodia for more than 13 years. The new initiative, which the hospital aims to raise USD $1.5 million for, will cater exclusively to the health needs of women. Services will include screening for breast and cervical cancer, which if detected early have a significantly higher survival rate. For more information about the Bloom Fashion

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Benefit or how to get involved in the Women’s Health Initiative, contact Grace Henry at: gracehenry@sihosp.org

Munich of the Mekong

Germany’s famous beer-laden Octoberfest is descending upon Phnom Penh again on October 15 to 17. Held at Hotel Cambodiana, the beer-lovers event is organized by the German Business Group Cambodia.

For the USD $18 entry fee, you get two Tiger draft beers, an Octoberfest polo shirt, as well as all-you-can-eat Bavarian buffet on the hotel’s Mekong Terrace. There is also a live band from Bavaria. Those wishing to stretch out the festivities should head for the Riverside Bistro, which has $1 Angkor beer from 7 am to 7 pm until the rainy season ends.

Cambodia International Film Festival

The first annual Cambodia International Film Festival is to be held in Phnom Penh from October 20 to 23. Promoters promise to bring international filmmakers to screen their latest movies and share their skills with Khmer filmmakers. The festival is hosted by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts and organized by FX Entertainment in association with the Cambodia Film Commission, Kmy Films and the Association of Filmmakers of Cambodia. Events will be open to the public alongside invitation-only galas and workshops designed for local film industry development. Some screenings will take place at the French Cultural Centre. For more information, visit www. cambodia-iff.com.

Garden Dining at Nonprofit Initiative CCF

Opened September 14, Le Café in the French Cultural Centre courtyard is a fresh destination for breakfast and lunch. Run by the nonprofit Mith Samlanh, Le Café is a training café/restaurant for the students, located in the organization's space previously directed as a social business called Café du Centre until late last year. The garden setting is a tranquil, lush environment for meals throughout the day.

From 7:30 am to 11:30 am, coffee and assorted baked goods are available à la carte for breakfast. A lunch buffet, offering four Cambodian dishes, rice, water and dessert runs from 11:30 am to 1 pm.

Snacks and drinks are served until the late afternoon.

EVENTS Oktoberfest at Windsor Plaza Hotel

From October 8 to 10 and again on the 15th and 16th, Oktoberfest returns to the Windsor Plaza Hotel at 18 An Duong Vuong in District 5. This year, Windsor Plaza and the German Business Association are celebrating the 200th anniversary of Oktoberfest and hope to exceed the record 12,000 guests that came out to swill some suds last year. Oktoberfest Vietnam 2010 will offer seven days filled with foot-stomping music, refreshing German brew and all-you-can-eat food. Ticket prices start at 600,000 VND. For more information visit www. oktoberfestvietnam.com, or contact the Windsor Plaza Hotel at 3833 6688 or info@oktoberfestvietnam.com.

7 Habits of Highly Effective People Author Visits HCMC

On Thursday, October 21, the White Palace Convention Centre will host Dr. Stephen R. Covey, author of the best-selling 7 Habits of Highly Effective People, for a special seminar entitled Critical Fundamentals of Personal

and Professional Effectiveness.

Dr. Covey will illustrate how the principles that underpin his 7 Habits can be applied in the workplace to overcome ineffectiveness and create a blueprint for success. Participants will learn how to sustain positive change, reduce turnover rates, improve quality of products and services, better client relations, and improve decision-making and problem-solving. For more information, contact Nguyen Thuy Van at thuyvan@goldenadgroup.com or 2214 3086.

Saigon Children’s Charity Art Exhibition 2010

Colours of Life, Saigon Children’s Charity’s 2010 youth art exhibition opens at the Opera House in Lam Son Square on Saturday, October 16 and runs through the 23rd. Organized annually, the art exhibitions are opportunities to showcase the talents of students at Thang Long School and raise money to support the programmes there.

Featuring both paintings and photographs, exhibitions are held not just in HCM City but also in Singapore, Hong Kong and even in Europe.

Hotel Equatorial HCM City Hosts the French Fair

On October 22 and 23 from 5 to 11 pm, the Hotel Equatorial HCM City will host Vietnam’s biggest French Wine & Food Fair. The fair will showcase unique French heritage and culture including fine wine and food. French band Bigot Swing will perform, as well. Early bird tickets are 350,000 VND per person while entry on the day will cost 400,000 VND. Group bookings will be subject to special discounts. For details call 3839 7777, ext. 8041.

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VinaCapital Hong Kong to Vietnam Race

Some of the world’s most skilled yachtsmen will set a course for Nha Trang next month, when the fifth VinaCapital Hong Kong to Vietnam Race terminates on the shores of this seaside city on October 23.

Organized by the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club (RHKYC) and supported by Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa and Saigontourist Travel Services, the four-day sailing event covers 656 nautical miles, making it the longest Category One race in Asia. This year’s edition of the VinaCapital Hong Kong to Vietnam Race coincides with the full moon, which will add to the atmosphere as the boats race along at 20 knots during the hours of darkness.

For more information about the race, visit www.rhkyc.org.hk/ hkvietnamrace.htm. To book accommodation at Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa, go to www.sheraton.com or call 058 388 0000.

Kate Festival in Phan Thiet

On October 6 and 7, the Kate Festival celebrating the culture of the Cham people will take place at Poh Sah Inu Tower in Phan Thiet. The cultural festival is built around traditional rituals, most notably the palanquin procession featuring colourful costumes and the Tong ceremony, held to ward off evil winds. Also scheduled are displays of ethnic music and dance, brocade and ceramic exhibitions, folk games and craft and music workshops.

Plus, all the banh tet and banh gung (ginger cake) you can eat.

tober 23) and Riverside Apartment, Blu Bar and Grill (October 30). Villa Anupa Boutique will also host a launch party to welcome new label CONTRABAND on Friday October 8 from noon to 8 pm. Also at the event

Anupa and La Majeste Bebe will launch their new jewellery line and tailor-made children’s clothes service, respectively.

Villa Anupa Boutique is located at 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1. Call 3825 7307.

Boomarang Bistro to Celebrate Grand Opening

Villa Anupa Boutique Out and About in An Phu

Villa Anupa Boutique continues its travels around An Phu throughout October. The events will be held from 9 am to noon at the following locations: Linh’s Furniture Contemporary (October 2), La Sud Gaudir (October 9), Thao Dien Village Hotel (October 16), Linh’s Furniture (Oc-

New restaurant Boomarang Bistro in Phu My Hung will have its grand opening event on October 16. Boomarang serves up fresh, authentic Australian cuisine and a wide selection of beverages in an ambient dining and entertainment venue. Boomarang also hosts special events. Located at The Crescent Residence 2, CR-2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, District 7. Call 5413 6592.

Concha y Toro Winemakers Dinner at Reflections Restaurant

On October 22, Wine Ambassador Jose Miguel Cruz of Concha y Toro Wines will host a wine maker dinner at the Caravelle Hotel’s Reflections Restaurant. A range of Concha y Toro wines will be introduced and tasted with dishes including poached duck liver au tourchon on shortbread crust with glazed cherries, light cured smoked salmon on shallot puree with soft poached egg and merlot poached seabass on creamed leeks. For more information call 3823 4999 or visit www. caravellehotel.com.

Charity Cycle Adventure 2010

From November 18 to 22, Saigon Children’s Charity will organize a three-day cycling adventure in support of Vietnam’s neediest children. Participants will cycle 150 km through local villages near Hue, up to the Ba Na mountains and along the most coastline. The tour takes in temples, colourful pagodas and stunning beaches before the route veers off the beaten track before reaching Hoi An. The registration fee is a USD $450 and covers all costs of the ride, including transportation, equipment, meals and accommodation. Participants are also

asked to raise a minimum of $500 in sponsorship for Saigon Children’s Charity (SCC). For more information email cycle@ saigonchildren.com or visit www.saigonchildren.com.

Meeting Point Networking Night

On October 14 at 6 pm, Citynetevents.com will host its sixth Meeting Point networking night at Kumho Plaza’s Rooftop Garden. Robert Lim, principal consultant and country manager for Right Management will keynote the evening’s presentation, “How Do Leaders Drive Work Performance?” Lim will explore how leadership behaviour directly impacts employee commitment, performance and contribution. Three speakers will also be drawn from the audience to give a one-minute presentation about themselves and their company. The best presentation is rewarded with a lucky draw prize.

"Meeting Point" is a professional social business event attended by hundreds of local and foreign business professionals who come to make new contacts and friends.

Event sponsors to get access to a very select audience of professionals. Send an email to register@citynetevents.com.

Pre-registration is 40,000 VND or 60,000 VND at the door.

CanCham’s Canadian Thanksgiving

On Monday October 11 from 6 pm, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam will welcome its local and expatriate members and friends to its Canadian Thanksgiving Dinner at the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Hotel. All the proceeds of this event will be donated to a charitable organization committed to the development of education and health in Vietnam. Tickets are on sale now. For more information, call the CanCham office at 3824 3754 or email hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org.

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dispatches

Travel news from around the region and beyond

Singapore Marathon

Runners will take to the streets of the city state on December 5 for the annual Standard Chartered Singapore Marathon. Organizers Singapore Sports Council and the Singapore Athletic Association claim the marathon is the largest in the region with more than 60,000 runners expected to compete in this year’s event. Now in its eighth year, the full marathon is complemented by a half-marathon, a 10km race, a 10km wheelchair race and a kids’ dash. Although the starts occur at various places across the city, all events finish at Padang. For more information on how to enter the race, visit www.marathonsingapore.com.

ZoukOut 2010

Organized by Zouk Club, Singapore, Southeast Asia’s largest dance music festival returns to Silos Beach, Sentosa for the ninth consecutive year. On December 12 more than 20,000 dance music lovers from all over the world are expected to answer the call of Zouk at this all-night beach party. With four main stages, Zouk promises a brilliant programme featuring some of the world's top DJs, as will a stellar line-up of dance outfits and rabble-rousing bands, although at time of press the line-up had yet to be confirmed. For more information, visit the festival’s website at www.zoukout.com.

Gorillaz in Hong Kong

Major UK band Gorillaz will play their first ever Asian concert in Hong Kong in December. Promoters Lushington Entertainments announced that the band featuring Blur singer-songwriter Damon Albarn will play the Hong Kong Asia World Arena on December 3. In addition to Damon Albarn, Mick Jones and Paul Simonon, the Gorillaz live band also includes Mike Smith, Cass Browne, Jeff Wootton and Gabriel Manuals Wallace, as well as additional backing singers, brass sections, a full string ensemble, special guests and animations. Gorillaz released their third album Plastic Beach in March of this year, and swept the charts around the world with fantastic reviews across the board. Tickets range from HK $500 to HK $880. Web bookings can be made at www.hkticketing.com.

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Loy Krathong

Loy Krathong is Thailand’s most colourful festival.

It's celebrated throughout the country, but Chiang Mai is the best place to join in. On November 21, the skies of the northern Thai city will be illuminated with khom loi lanterns, released into the air as a symbol of worship to Phrathat Chulamani.

Loy Kratong is only one day in Chiang Mai’s weeklong Yi Peng Festival, during which there is a whole series of events. For more information, visit www.tourismthailand.org.

Bangkok World Film Festival

A showcase for independent films and new work from rising talents to cinema masters, this year’s World Film Festival of Bangkok will take place between November 5 and 11. More than 80 international films are screened at the festival each year, featuring works from the European Union Film Festival, Latin America, Asia and Southeast Asia including short films, experimental films, documentaries and animation productions. Apart from film screenings, there are film-related talks such as a master class workshop and other special events. For more details, visit www.worldfilmbkk.com.

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English pop rock phenomenon Melodramas have impressed music industry legends with their sound and have now wowed HCM City audiences twice this year. Beth Young meets the boys on their second visit last month at the Hard Rock Café. Photo by Fred Wissink.

Tell me how Melodramas started.

MATT, lead singer: We all come from the same town in England (Southampton). We were friends beforehand and we all knew about each other’s musical abilities. There’s a nice little music scene developing down there and we decided about two years ago to put our effort down and the Melodramas were formed.

We did everything DIY from the start. We made our videos, we recorded our own music and we put it out there. Some people started to take notice.

Big bands would come to town, such as the New York Dolls and [Foo Fighters’ drummer] Taylor Hawkins. They listened to the material, really liked it and got us on board with them. Then we showcased ourselves at the Rolling Stone Showcase event and that’s what opened up a lot of doors to Asia.

You’ve just toured China and Cambodia. Why are you marketing yourselves in Asia?

MATT: I think it’s like, why not Asia? Because we live in an age where information, you can send it across the world at a click of a finger, people in Australia probably got to hear our music sooner than people across the street where I live, just because of the Internet and MySpace and Facebook.

If we’ve got the market here, we’re more than happy to come out and play.

ROB, guitar: It’s an amazing part of the world, as well. You

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don’t get sights and experiences like this where we come from.

You were here in February for a Tiger Beer-sponsored concert.

Why did you decide to come back?

GREGORY, bass: We were embraced so warmly. It felt wrong not to come back. We’ve got new material, stuff that will be on the album that we’re going to record with Sam Williams, who did the Foo Fighters’ album. I think we’re just really excited to introduce a whole bunch of new songs and a hardhitting live performance to the Vietnamese audience.

SAM, drummer: We’re still really early on in the Melodramas’ life. It’s early on and we wanted to come back as part of our big adventure out here. We started in China, went to Cambodia and played three shows there. We’ll play three shows here in Ho Chi Minh then we’re off to Brisbane, Australia.

How do Asian audiences compare to Western crowds?

ROB: I just think the enthusiasm levels are really different.

I watch audiences at home and people get into it, but here it’s like an event. People are excited.

MATT: I love the U.K. and we’ll always tour there but no matter who it is, whether it’s the Rolling Stones or some band who formed a week ago, sometimes the music seems a bit incidental to what’s going on, which is getting hammered. [all laugh] Whereas here it’s like this is music night. Maybe

I’ll get a drink, but I’m here for the music and I appreciate the music. It’s great.

When you were here last you played with two Vietnamese bands, Unlimited and Microwave. From performing with them, what are your thoughts on the Vietnamese music scene?

ROB: I think the heavier type of stuff is quite popular here. I mean, Microwave was a hard rock band and Unlimited were full on metal with long hair and lots of head banging. Tonight we’re playing with another Vietnamese band, 6789. We went to see them last night at a little place called Yoko. They’re nothing like us. They’ve got like a rocky Hendrix-y kind of vibe going. But that’s cool. We dig that, as well.

Can you describe your sound?

ROB: We’ve been described as unclassifiable. There are elements of pop and rock there. We want to think of ourselves as a pop band first and foremost, but [we’re] not afraid to rock out a little bit here and there. We’ve got a bit of a variety of influences but I think it’s fair to say that the stuff that we all kind of agree on is 90s Brit pop rock.

Intelligent, well-delivered pop music. That’s what we love.

MATT: I think the fans like the well-constructed pop record.

Whether it be the Beach Boys or a more modern, noisy band, it’s about taking the classic formula and messing it around a bit, putting your own imprint on it.

Tell me a little bit more about that album that’s coming out.

ROB: We’re really lucky we’re doing it with a guy called Sam Williams. He did all the Supergrass albums of the 90s and we’re massive fans. We sent our stuff to him and he liked it.

Matt emailed him and an hour later Sam [phoned] him back.

MATT: It was really insane.

He’s a bit of a hero of mine. I emailed him and I didn’t expect to hear back. I was hoping for something like, “That’s really good. Keep going.” But he said, “Give me your home phone number. I’ll call you tomorrow morning.” We’ve been up to meet him. He likes what we’re doing.

What’s next for Melodramas?

ROB: Well after we do the three shows here, then we’re off to Brisbane for the Big Sound Festival, which is really, really cool—I’ll blow my own trumpet. [laughs]. We won best international artist for them, so we’re the only U.K. band playing there. That’ll be the end of this tour. Then back to the U.K. where we’re going to work, work, work on the album for November. There’s another tour in the works with Steve Comte—he’s the guitar player for the New York Dolls. Then Christmas, and we’re all going to hang out with our families!

MARK, manager: We might be coming back early next year…

ROB: I stand corrected. We’re coming back to Asia! Christmas is off!

Whether it be the Beach Boys or a more modern, noisy band, it’s about taking the classic formula and messing it around a bit, putting your own imprint on it.

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radar Eating Asia eatingasia.typepad.com For anyone who has ever peered into a street vendor’s cart, intrigued but unnerved, Eating Asia is a reminder that a meal passed up is an opportunity missed. Fuelled by photographer David Hagerman and writer Robyn Eckhardt’s intrepid culinary curiosity, the blog provides a wealth of information on dishes from Taiwan to Turkey. The husband-and-wife team has spent the last 14 years on the food beat in Asia, and it’s clear their passion hasn’t waned in the slightest. Even the greasiest of street food appears positively sumptuous through Hagerman’s lens; the richly illustrated dispatches are enough to send you to the travel agent. For her part, Eckhardt often tucks her exposition into engrossing narratives that illuminate the history, people and places behind her latest meal. So while you may not venture into the rice fields of Toraja, Indonesia like she and Hagerman, you might appreciate your next bowl of nasi goreng all the more for the insight they serve up. Lauren Degan

Home Sheep Home www.shaunthesheep.com We were afraid we wouldn’t be able to include Home Sheep Home in this month’s radar—which was a shame because the game features two things we love: physics and adorable animated sheep. In the first levels, it just seemed too easy to achieve the goal of manipulating velocity, inertia and force to shepherd the corpulent Shirley, spry Shaun and infant Timmy through a series of obstacles from one side of the screen to the other. And then things got embarrassing—sheep lost, reset buttons pressed, curse words muttered. Adding insult to injury, each time you repeat a level, little messages pop up with increasingly explicit (and patronizing) tips: “How could this seesaw help?” asks Home Sheep Home. It’s about as obnoxious as that little punk who sat next to you in class and pointed out Waldo. However, like the books featuring that red-and-white striped icon, Home Sheep Home is highly addictive. Check out the website for this and other games featuring the popular Shaun the Sheep characters. Tom DiChristopher

RunPee www.runpee.com Even among film buffs, sometimes nature’s call trumps respect for the cinematic experience. But thanks to RunPee.com, you’ll never again have to ask, “Did I miss anything important?” RunPee was created by American programmer Dan Florio to provide strategic exit points for when that mid-movie tingle becomes unbearable. Basically, Florio (with the help of his wife, sister and mother) identifies miss-able movie scenes and crunches them into a timeline flagged with your cue to cut out of the theatre. Since apps are available for iPhone, Android and other mobile devices, you can check the scene summary en route to the loo. The iPhone app even includes a timer function; just sync it when the credits role and you’ll be alerted by vibration that the window is open. For updates on the latest additions to RunPee’s repertoire, subscribe to @runpee on Twitter. Tom DiChristopher

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Street Smart: Tran Hung Dao District 5 Beyond District 1, Tran Hung Dao Street extends into the heart of Chinatown and HCM City’s past. Beth Young explores with a little help from Stephy Thai. Photos by Kerry Manning.

Tran Hung Dao stretches between the city centre to the cusp of District 6, cutting its way through Cholon. Across HCM City’s Chinese quarter, Tran Hung Dao has the most to offer in culture: pagodas and tombs housing historical Vietnamese figures, traditional tea stockists, bustling marketplaces and streetside stalls selling gorgeous Oriental lanterns.

Pagodas & Tombs Tran Hung Dao is home to many pagodas, tombs and monuments to historical figures. Famous Catholic scholar Truong Vinh Ky or Petrus JeanBaptiste Vinh Ky (1837-1898) has been laid to rest in a beautiful tomb at the corner of Tran Hung Dao and Tran Binh Trong.

The tomb stands at the centre of a large, leafy courtyard where Ky’s family continues to live.

Around the main structure his relatives are buried and his fourth-generation granddaughter Ms. Xuan runs a quan, which serves all types of Vietnamese cuisine. Ky spoke more than 25 languages, popularized quoc ngu (Romanized Vietnamese)

and wrote more than 100 books, among many other achievements.

Le Cong Phap, a judge renowned for being fair and impartial, is also remembered at Dinh Tan Kieng (718-728 Tran Hung Dao). Phap died in 1876 on the very lane where the pagoda is located. Currently the massive building is under renovation, but the friendly caretakers still welcome visitors.

Just next door in a tiny garage is a tribute to Lady Phi Yen, Lord Nguyen Anh’s second wife. Nguyen Anh was later named Emperor Gia Long, beginning the Nguyen Dynasty, which ran from 1777 to 1820.

Nguyen Anh called for French reinforcements to fend off encroaching enemy troops from his home on Con Son Island.

Phi Yen warned him not to.

Nguyen Anh became suspicious of his wife’s intentions and plotted to have her killed. Instead, he had her locked away in a prison on the island. As legend has it, an ape and a tiger rescued her. Afterwards, she lived with villagers, until she allegedly committed suicide.

Across the road, Thanh That Saigon, a Cao Dai pagoda, (891 Tran Hung Dao) looms over the street. The temple has many levels and the highest tier affords a great view of the city. Cao Dai, which was officially founded in Vietnam in 1926, embraces a single core philosophy: that all religions and philosophies, whether it be

Taoism, Confucianism, Catholicism or Buddhism, are equal and share the same God. The symbol for that higher power is an all-seeing eye. Though both genders are allowed to pray within the temple there are two separate staircases for men and women. This ensures yin and yang—another theme central to the belief—is maintained. If

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you go, ask for Duong. He’s a monk-in-training and possesses an encyclopeadic knowledge of Cao Dai. Dong Thap 780 Tran Hung Dao More than three decades old, Dong Thap is a rundown cinema that plays pirated DVDs onto a large projector screen.

Lining the walls in the “lobby” are posters and paintings advertising both Vietnamese and foreign films—mainly old local movies and D-grade international flicks that never made it to the big screen. Inside, rows of cracked, red pleather lounges face the screen and stale cigarette smoke fills the air. According to the woman on duty, it’s a favourite haunt for same-sex couples who take advantage of the very cheap 20,000 VND ticket. If you’re interested make a visit soon. Dong Thap is due to close its doors for good in the next year or two.

Dong Da Saigon 890 Tran Hung Dao Decidedly more modern, Dong Da Saigon is located a little further along the street and plays the most recent Vietnamese and foreign films. Visit www. saigonmedia.com.vn.

Kao Kui 808 Tran Hung Dao Kao Kui has an impressive selection of marine life: salamanders, neons and clown fish for very reasonable prices.

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(My favourite, salamanders or Mexican Walking fish are 80,000 VND). Kao Kui also stocks all the accessories and decorations needed to create a tank from scratch.

operation has been growing tea in Bao Loc District, near Dalat, and sending it on to HCM City for the last 14 years.

The Warehouse 224 Tran Hung Dao One of HCM City’s premium wine distributors, The Warehouse’s sales manager and vino connoisseur JB Baudron often assists AsiaLIFE with our monthly Imbibe column. Aptly named, The Warehouse stocks an impressive range of alcohol: New and Old World wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

Nha Thuoc Du Khang 394 Tran Hung Dao A Chinese pharmacy that stocks a wide selection of medicines containing traditional ingredients. Though some dried herbs and in particular seaweed (which can be boiled with water to make a tonic) are available, most of the medicine is in pill form. According to the shopkeeper, the chemist’s biggest seller is abalone extract—a shellfish that contributes to general well being.

Hang Tra Cao Nguyen 22 Tran Hung Dao This compact store specializes in Chinese tea in various flavours including jasmine and oolong (the latter can be purchased by the kilo for about 600,000 VND). Medicinal brews like bitter gourd, which can significantly reduce blood sugar levels, are available, too. A pack of 20 tea bags costs just 35,000 VND. The family behind the

V Box Karaoke 552-554 Tran Hung Dao V Box is one of the flashier karaoke joints in HCM City.

Spread over six levels, the premises encompass a VIP room up top and four floors fashioned to depict the seasons.

The décor can only be described as 70s-inspired tack, although our intern Stephy, a keen karaoke singer, was ultraimpressed with the “modern”

Doner Kebab, Shish Kebab, Homemade Kofte, Homemade Turkish Pide & Pizza’s Our ingredients are imported.

facilities and in particular with the range of English songs that were available. The music is updated daily and V Box will download particular songs on request for a fee. To hire a regular room for three hours at night costs 79,000 VND per person, including free drinks.

The VIP room—a massive space with sofa-lined walls, flatscreen TVs and a stage fit for a real band—is 250,000 per head and fits 30 people. Open 10 am to midnight.

Dr. Tron Therapy 858 Tran Hung Dao When AsiaLIFE visited Tran Hung Dao, hoards of Vietnamese, young and old, were gathered around this unassuming shopfront. They were there

to use the Dr. Tron, a Japanese invention that buzzes the body with electrons to promote health. According to one of the physicians, the Dr. Tron purifies blood, strengthens the immune system, improves the metabolism and regulates the central nervous system. For the time being the treatment is free— which explains the mass of people waiting for their turn.

Thuong Xa Dong Khanh 65-473 Tran Hung Dao Located right down the end of Tran Hung Dao, Thuong Xa Dong Khanh (tax market) is a sprawling marketplace that sells everything the discerning fashion designer needs. From trims, to transfers and fabric galore, this is the place to shop.

Meet Your Street: Tran Hung Dao (1228-1300) was a brilliant military strategist and general during the Tran Dynasty. With an army comprised of mostly peasants and volunteers he repelled two Mongol invasions. A statue depicting Tran Hung Dao stands to attention just off Ton Duc Thang.

call 0907129430 / 08 629 136 77 25 Dong Du, D1, HCMC WWW.PASHA.COM.VN

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Cityscapes ..........................................

Daena Teng and Janice Paglinawan, both 15, are year 11 students at the British International School. The pair submitted their work to the Shoot Nations International Youth Photography Competition in July this year. The brief required them to, one: figuratively turn the lens on themselves to reveal their self-perceptions and, two: make a statement about the city they live in. Between them, they won first prize in two out of three categories for their age group. Their work will be exhibited in various countries with a special presentation at the UN in New York.

“Being whoever and whatever I want to be. Their views vary, but I know who I am. Individuality.�

Janice Paglinawan

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“In the city, the only person who can stand in your way is you.”

Daena Teng

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A

dventure. Excitement. The Unknown. For some, they are inextricable from the act of travel. Whether heading into the mountains of Rwanda, exploring Istanbul through the camera’s lens or delving into a culinary curiosity somewhere on the road less taken, there is a yearning for the unfamiliar. We purchase a ticket for a plane ride, but really, we are buying into a mystery. It’s seldom we solve the puzzle that travel presents, but always, we come home possessed of some morsel of knowledge, even if it doesn’t reveal itself until weeks, months, maybe years later. This world does not give its secrets up easily. No matter where you go, no matter what you see, there will always be another frontier to cross. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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GORILLAS ON THE CLIFFS They’re back from the brink and now thriving in Central Africa’s volcanic jungles. Adam Bray heads to the mountains of Rwanda in search of the greatest of the great apes. Photos by Peter Stuckings.

“No one who looks into a gorilla's eyes — intelligent, gentle, vulnerable — can remain unchanged…” George Schaller My group arrived early in the morning at the Virungas National Park Headquarters, nestled at the foot of Mt. Visoke, a dormant volcano. The peaks were shaped like colossal tree trunks; their steep, black ridges organically sweeping down into the valley like tree roots. Morning fog pulsed through the hanging valleys above, at once cooling and drenching the rainforests perched on their slopes. Though chilled by the morning air, the excitement of today’s impending trek motivated me to ignore any discomfort. We were here to meet one of the great emissaries of Africa and a veritable mascot of Rwanda—the Mountain Gorillas.

Grouping Tourists, Journalists and Gorillas All five members of my group, including myself, were travel writers from the United States. Additionally, a British journalist from The Guardian accompanied us, along with her friend, a British actress whose name I can’t remember. The anticipation of encountering wild gorillas was too much to be bothered with celebrities.

The elevation of the Virungas (“Volcanoes” in Kinyarwanda, the native Rwandan language) is between 2,500 and 3,000m above sea level (most of Rwanda is above 1,500m), ensuring that we would be huffing

and puffing our way up the mountain. I took no small comfort in the fact that three of my teammates were also overweight. I didn’t want to be the only one struggling up the incline—and certainly not the one at the back of the line—at least not all of the time.

We weren’t the only group heading out.

There were half-a-dozen teams—some tourists, others exchange students, and a smattering of dignitaries here for the annual Baby Mountain Gorilla Naming Ceremony, known as Kwita Izina, which I attended the day before. Teams were limited to eight individuals, with one team per each of the seven gorilla groups. A maximum of 56 visitors hike in the park on any given day. “Visitor numbers are kept low to both reduce the stress on the gorillas and limit their negative ecological impact,” our guide told us.

After a brief orientation during which we were given a list of rules and tips (not least of which was how not to piss off the 180kg silverback), we clamoured into jeeps and each group drove off to a separate area of the park. Each team would trek out to see a different gorilla group, predetermined by trackers earlier that morning.

Typically, a gorilla family group consists of one adult male (the silverback), several adult females, and offspring ranging from infants, to juveniles, to young adult males (known as blackbacks). Only seven among the many wild gorilla groups roaming the mountains

are actually habituated, or acclimated to prolonged human presence.

There is Susa, the largest group at 40 individuals, and also the most difficult to reach, while the Sabyinyo are the easiest to reach and ruled by Guhondo, the heaviest gorilla ever recorded at 220kg. Group 13’s irresistible silverback has a harem of 13 females. Amahoro and Umubano groups’ territories overlap, but they live peaceably— perhaps due to their shared family members.

Kwitonda Group has a long history of bordercrossing between Rwanda and Uganda.

Our group was named Hirwa or “Luck” in Kinyarwanda and consisted of nine individuals. The large silverback’s name was Munyinya.

Ascending the Volcanoes From the park headquarters our jeep ploughed through a muddy track of cropland. The Virungas are surrounded by private farms, a significant source of conflict as they encroach on the park. The jeep was soon stuck in a deep rut. We climbed out and pushed. Amber-coloured mud flew everywhere as the tyres spun, covering one of the ladies in the group from head to toe. The driver flashed a few dollars and farm hands came running to help.

Back in the car, we drove a few more metres and were once again stuck in the mire. I snuck a few photos while my teamasialife HCMC 29

mates pushed. It wasn’t appreciated at the time, though I found great humour in it. We stopped and started a few times before we gave up, abandoned the car to our driver and hoofed it up to the park boundary, a thigh-high stone wall at the top of the hill.

Admittedly, I was exhausted before we even started the official hike.

Silverbacks determine where their groups wander in search of food, which means they roam throughout the park. Thus some teams may not have to walk very far to find their gorillas. In fact, any given group might not even be in the park—they may very well be trespassing in the farmlands below. Then again, other groups might be high up on the mountain slopes—a six-hour hike each way. Even more inconvenient, a few groups regularly cross over into Uganda or DRC (The Democratic Republic of Congo), as they, unlike the tourists trekking after them, have visa exemptions. Our guides assured us that the Hirwa group was just two hours into the jungle.

We passed into a dark bamboo forest.

The air was still and silent—super-saturated with moisture. I was drenched in minutes.

We squeezed through the bamboo bunches, climbing over and under leaning stalks. Every accidental tap of a stalk brought a momentary shower of rain from above. Every brush of the bamboo also left blackish-green algae stains on my clothing.

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The Gorilla’s Patron Saint I imagined what it was like for Dian Fossey, walking through these same forests when she first arrived in the Virungas and founded the Karisoke Research Centre in 1967. It is due to her own groundbreaking research, in turn built upon that of the immanent field biologist George B. Schaller, that the world first learned about the unique Mountain Gorillas and their dire struggle to survive the onslaught of poachers, habitat destruction and civil war.

Oddly enough, Fossey, the titular patron saint of mountain gorillas, was staunchly against exploiting the gorillas for ecotourism. Like other apes, mountain gorillas are susceptible to many of the diseases that humans carry, but generally lack our natural immunities. Fossey reported several cases where tourists transmitted diseases leading to the deaths of gorillas. She also felt strongly that tourists interfered with the gorillas’ natural behaviour, as well as her own research.

As a result of habituation, gorillas are not afraid of raiding crops. Thus they come into direct conflict with farmers. They also do not fear poachers or the many refugees and soldiers that invaded the park during the DRC’s long and bloody civil war. Certainly Fossey had some valid arguments.

Nearly two decades after founding Karisoke, Fossey was found murdered in her

I imagined what it was like for Dian Fossey, walking through these same forests when she first arrived in the Virungas cabin on December 27, 1985. Her murderer was never found. Some suggest she was killed by poachers, but others speculate that those responsible were in fact the very people who stood to gain financially by exploiting the gorillas for tourism. Fossey is buried at Karisoke, among her gorilla friends, who died at the hands of poachers.

The last entry in her diary read, “When you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate on the preservation of the future.”

The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (the only one of several organizations using Fossey’s name that was actually established and authorized by her) spearheads most of the gorilla research and active conservation in the park today.

An Hour in Eden We climbed a bluff and into warm rays of sunlight. The bamboo forest lay behind us

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Much like the Hirwa group perched itself on the edge of the gorge, so too the mountain gorillas have clung onto existence despite remarkable odds against their survival like a green, vertical game of pick-up-sticks.

Before us was a tangle of vines, tree ferns and giant Hagenia trees matted in soft moss and narrow leaf ferns, the latter a favourite food of mountain gorillas. Our guides told us that the trackers had located Hirwa group nearby. We would leave our packs and walking sticks here, and climb down a ravine to meet them for their morning feeding session.

I looked across the chasm. Our goal was not to reach the bottom of the gorge, but rather climb down only a short way and then work our way horizontally across the ledges, where the gorillas were perched. There were no trees on the ridge, which was densely matted in vines. The incline was steep and there was no cleared path. We descended by hanging onto vegetation—something quite frankly, that I never expected myself to be doing, nor knew I was even physically capable of. It was a bit like climbing over an enormous pile of brush; my feet constantly slipping through the tangle, but never meeting the rocky surface underneath. As I grabbed a handful of stinging nettles in one hand and brushed a line of biting ants with the other, I grimaced and wished someone had suggested bringing gloves.

Suddenly there was a rush of whispers and rustling for cameras. Ahead of us a knee-high, black ball of hair sat watching us. Much like a human child might, the juvenile gorilla heard our approach in the bushes, and driven by curiosity, ran out to

meet us. We passed within inches from his glossy brown, zircon-gemstone eyes and wrinkled nose as we climbed further in to meet the rest of his family.

There was a pungent smell like human body odor—a musky, oily scent that comes from not bathing. It was the gorillas, and not least the silverback. Black bodies began appearing amidst the tangled sea of ferns.

Babies tumbled through the brush in play, constantly glancing back at us as though hoping to instigate a reaction on our part.

The mothers paid us little notice, sometimes passing within a few feet. Their focus was on feeding.

“No flash photography!” our guide gasped. A startled and dizzy baby scuttled back to its mother as a colleague, redfaced, frantically reset their camera.

Unlike the others, the eyes of Munyinya, the Hirwa silverback, were forever on us. He reclined in a nest of ferns, propped up on one elbow, like a great sultan watching over his harem. He made no aggressive moves.

Occasionally he uttered friendly groans in response to the ones that our trackers taught us to make. Only once did he puff and snort, but did not move, when one of his babies tumbled too close to us.

“His lower right canine is broken,” our guide pointed as Munyinya yawned. “He lost the tip in a fight. Mountain gorillas are very peaceful, gentle animals, but sometimes males must defend their group.” I made a note not to get too close.

FLIGHTS: All flights from Vietnam route through Bangkok. Cheapest options forward include Ethiopian Airlines and Kenya Airways, and may include stops in Nairobi, Addis Ababa and Entebbe before landing in Kigali, Rwanda. Round-trip flights originating in Vietnam start at USD $1200.

amenities, a good bar and restaurant. Rooms are USD $35 to $45.

SLEEPING: Hotel Muhabura www.hotelmuhabura.com, Ave du 5 Juillet, tel: 0252 546 296. Muhabura is the oldest hotel in town and was often used by visitors to Karisoke in Fossey’s time. Accommodations are comfortable and atmospheric with all the basic

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TRANSPORT: Musanze (formerly known as Ruhengeri) is the closest town to Virungas National Park. Hourly buses depart between Musanze and Kigali, take two hours and cost under USD $3.

PARK ENTRY: Permits for the Virungas National Park cost USD $500 per person and should be reserved well in advance through any regional ORTPN (Office Rwandais Du Tourisme Et Des Parcs Nationaux). The

Climbing Up From the Cliff Park rules stipulated that we remained with the group only for one hour, so as not to disrupt the gorillas’ daily itinerary of feeding and napping, or cause them anxiety over the safety of their offspring. We withdrew from our communion with the gorillas reluctantly. My experience with the gorillas left me thirsting for more. It not only piqued my interest in the gorillas themselves, but also gave me a desire to come back to my home in Vietnam and explore the wildlife and jungles at my own back door.

Much like the Hirwa group perched itself on the edge of the gorge, so too the mountain gorillas have clung onto existence despite remarkable odds against their survival. Bloody wars, poachers and habitat loss have all been significant threats since the time of Dian Fossey and will not cease to be serious hurdles in the near future.

Though not the solution that Fossey herself envisioned, gorilla tourism has proven to be one of the most successful components of gorilla conservation. It provides both the funds needed to manage the national park and income for local families who might otherwise turn to illegal logging or poaching themselves. Once under threat of extinction, the mountain gorillas of Rwanda have climbed above that desperate ledge to a more secure footing, and thankfully will continue to graciously receive many visitors for the foreseeable future.

minimum age for gorilla trekking is 15. Jeep transport from Ruhengeri to the park via ORTPN costs US $80. See www.rwandatourism.com.

OTHER SIGHTS: Notable attractions near Muhabura include Buhanga Eco-Park, Musanze Cave and Natural Bridge and both Burera and Karago lakes. Around Rwanda, the other must-see sights are Lake Kivu, Nyungwe National Park (including a wild chimpanzee trek and stay at the luxury Nyungwe Lodge) and the capital city Kigali and its several genocide memorials.

SURPRISE At three different tables in three different countries, Richard Sterling embraces the unknown—and walks away satisfied.

They say that the world has shrunk. They say that with modern means and ease of travel everybody gets everywhere. They say that movies, TV and the Internet have joined the modern world into one big mono-culture,

and that it holds no more surprises. They say a lot of things. And maybe those things are true for those who travel in tour groups, or confine themselves to resorts and big hotels, or even ashrams or monasteries or

gay holiday cruises. But I, like Napoleon's army, travel on my stomach. Yep. I eat me way through the world. And the surprises are so frequent, that I'm never surprised at the next surprise.

All I ask of food is that it doesn't harm me —-Michael Palin IN PAMPANGA, a small Philippine town, I was travelling to Olongapo City from Manila.

I was hungry and had walked into a holein-the-wall restaurant, the kind that has a counter for about three and seats for two.

The proprietor spoke no English, but I spoke enough Tagalog to say something like, "Give me your best."

He brought me a steaming bowl of something that looked like river bottom mud, the kind that gooshes up between your toes when you walk barefoot in it. Now I had heard that people who live along the Nile and the Amazon sometimes eat the silt from their river bottoms in time of famine.

It is said to have a lot of nutrients. I had no problem with that, per se, but I happened to know that the only river for miles around was an open sewer. I asked the man what the dish was, and he said, Dinuguan, but it meant nothing to me. "If it's river silt," I thought, "I hope it's well cooked. Very well cooked."

I took a bite, and it was delicious. Even though it had the look and texture of mud, it was delicious. It tasted somewhat like a rich beef stew cooked with a lot of red Bordeaux wine. In the mush, there were also what seemed like little dumplings or big gravy lumps that stuck to the roof of my mouth like peanut butter, but were even more tasty than the surrounding goosh. I

had two bowls of it, some rice and a San Miguel beer, and called that a good meal, whatever it was.

A week later I described the strange, delicious dish to Ricardo Paglinawan, a Filipino friend, and asked him if he knew what it was.

"Oh sure," he said. "That's blood."

"Blood!?"

"Yeah, blood."

"Blood?"

"Sure. They make it from duck's blood, or pig's blood. It's like a blood soup. So you liked it, eh?"

"Blood? You mean they flavour the soup with blood?"

"No, they just cook some blood. Maybe they put some salt in it, but mainly, it's just blood."

"But... but... what about the little... the little lumps? What were the lumps?"

"Oh, sometimes they cook it too fast and it clots. So you liked it?"

Well, yes, I did like it. I will confess I liked it more when I didn't know what it was, but I did like it, and still do, damn it!

The proprietor spoke no English, but I spoke enough Tagalog to say something like, "Give me your best."

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Once again I looked to the people watching me. They all bore expressions that seemed to say, "Go ahead, friend.

It's good."

Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are —-Brillat-Savarin LAOS, HARD BY CHINA'S southern border.

I often dine at the central market in the capital city of Vientiane. There's a stall in the southeast corner run by a woman who has dubbed me "Mr. Beer" for my taste for the brew at breakfast. Yes, at breakfast! Hey, it's hot there, the food is salty, and I don't have to drive, think or operate machinery.

When I showed up one morning, Madam took one look at me, turned to her daughter, smiled and said, "Bia," and the daughter fetched a cold one. Madam then turned to making one of my favourites of the tropical South China school: som tam. It's a spicy, tangy salad made from julienned green papaya tossed with chilli, garlic, lime, tomatoes and fish sauce. Then it's pounded a bit in a large mortar to release all the flavours and juices. It's very cleansing on the palate and a perfect foil for rich sauces or grilled meats.

As this was going on, I turned my eyes to Madam's supply of skewered chicken, pork, fish and stuff I couldn't identify. All had been previously grilled and needed only reheating on the charcoal brazier. I pointed to one in the shadowy corner that looked like the strips of marinated pork I had enjoyed on previous occasions, but as my good lady of the grill placed the skewer on the fire, I noticed little appendages on each piece of meat that looked rather like legs.

It occurred to me that what I had just ordered was tree frogs on a stick, a common item of diet in that corner of the world.

I wasn't too alarmed, as I'd enjoyed stuffed frogs for dinner only the night before. But for last night's entree, the heads, guts and skins had all been removed and the frog had been stuffed with a delicious forcemeat, rolled in

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spices and fried in a rich oil. Tree frogs on a stick, though, come to the table unaltered except by fire.

I thought of changing my order, but nobody at the market spoke English and I no Lao. Also, by this time I had attracted a small crowd of goggle-eyed children who had apparently never seen a blue-eyed demon at table, and I didn't want to give a bad account of my country. Besides, rats and bats on a stick are also common here; I figured I was getting off easy with tree frogs.

Madam's daughter turned the little beasties once more, then deskewered them onto a plate and set them before me. Frogs I was prepared for, but what I got was chicken feet!

Marinated, grilled, scratch-at-the-ground chicken feet. The heel and toe, claw, instep and ankle of the common barnyard chicken is esteemed a tasty treat throughout the Far East. I have even seen them offered in the snack bars of movie theaters in Taiwan. Right next to the M&Ms. I tell no lie.

I always knew that someday I would face this moment, but I never relished it. Funny, isn't it, that I who would eat anything should quake at the sight of chicken feet? I who have supped on soup made of ant larvae, quaffed bowls of blood, dined on dogs and chewed through the guts of animals unknown. Not that I am an indiscriminate eater, mind you. My food must be artfully prepared and presented with care. But I've long boasted that I would eat anything at least once. Somehow chicken feet never appealed.

And now my gastronomic bravado was coming home to roost. Madam set the som tam in front of me and daughter brought forth

sticky rice. Excellent Lao beer had been well chilled and poured into a frozen mug that had been resting under pounds of ice as though in anticipation of my arrival. The wideeyed children seemed to hold their breath as though the thought had occurred to them that the big, sweaty farang might prefer the profane feast of a tender child to the undisputed and civilized delicacy of chicken feet.

Their watchful parents ogled sidelong.

I sniffed. The aroma of BBQ chicken was unmistakable. No toe-jam smells or athlete'sfoot odours obtained. I looked closely at the curled digits and saw that few talons remained. Whether they had burned off on the grill or been extracted for herbal medicines I don't know. Once again I looked to the people watching me. They all bore expressions that seemed to say, "Go ahead, friend.

It's good." With thoughts of foot fetishes ajumble in my mind, I lifted one to my mouth, and as the children gawked, I gnawed. Dare I say it was finger-lickin' good? It tasted better than anything I ever bought from the Colonel.

He should take lessons. And all the people watching smiled, in a way that said I had just done a good thing.

Of course there isn't much meat on a hen's foot, or a cock's either for that matter.

You might get two swallows if you're a lady; one for a gentleman or a rogue. They're like pickled pig's feet: You nibble them for their flavour, not their nourishment. They provide much gustatory satisfaction with virtually no calories. And when you're finished, here's a tip for you: After gnawing on tasty chicken feet, you can do as I: use the toenails to pick your teeth.

Every moving thing shall be meat for you —-Genesis 9:3 ALL AROUND THE PYRAMIDS of Giza lay villages that have been occupied by Bedouin families since time out of mind. One of them is the family of Amdi Nasr el Nahes. They have been camel and horse breeders for generations. I met Amdi in a coffee house in Cairo where he had come on some family business. I invited him to share coffee and a hookah pipe with me and we became friends in a day. Two days later in the family village I was adopted. It's amazing, Fearless One, what some coffee, a pipe and a little hospitality can do in the right place. Amdi and his brother Ali took me trekking across the desert with their camels. "How many years has your family lived here?" I asked Amdi as we packed our gear. He looked at his brother.

They both shook their heads.

"I don't know," he said.

"Approximately," I pressed him.

"I don't know, brother. Since Pharaoh time. How many years is that?"

The morning of our first day out across the Egyptian desert, Amdi and Ali saddled a camel for me whom I had named "Clyde."

My friends thought the name hilarious and laughed every time I uttered it. When Clyde was ready to be mounted Ali said, "Now we must teach you how to ride."

"No problem," I said. "I learned how to ride a camel in India. I'll show you." I mounted the seated beast and braced myself for the sudden rise of his hind legs, which manoeuvre can tumble an unprepared rider head over heels. "Khush, Clyde," I said, speaking what I thought was pretty good Camel.

"Khush!" (Which means "Get up, you lazy camel!") "Khush, Clyde!"

Clyde suddenly raised his two left legs, rolled over onto his right side and spilled me on the ground with a whump. Clyde laughed his camel laugh. It was a sound I would come to know well. Though I had crossed the Great Indian Desert on camelback, and thought myself quite the camelteer, Clyde was out to teach me otherwise. Later on he took to nipping at me with his teeth, as though he would rip out a piece of flesh and eat it in front of me. Miserable beast. "Clyde is very bad sometimes," Amdi said. "I think

we will get rid of him soon." It couldn't have been soon enough for me.

When we returned from the long trek I thought I would never be able to sit down again for the saddle sores Clyde had given me. I also checked repeatedly for broken bones. I was about to depart Egypt in a very sorry state. My spirits soared, though, when Amdi and Ali told me they would give me a great feast of farewell in their village. They even said I could bring along some friends I had met earlier in Cairo. "That's great!" I said.

"And what's on the menu?"

It was Clyde.

Oh yes. It was Clyde.

Apparently my expression, that of having stumbled upon El Dorado, didn't mean quite the same in Arabic, and Ali hastened to assure me that, "We eat camel often. Yes. You will find it delicious. Especially camel's foot stew! It will make you very strong."

"It will?" said I, dreamily.

"You will see. The camel butcher is our cousin and he will be at the feast. He eats camel's foot stew every day. And he has three wives and nine children. Yes, it will make you very strong."

"Can we roast him?"

The whole village turned out, and it was said to be the most magnificent feast that anyone had ever attended. Amdi's mother supervised the preparation, and sent Clyde to us stuffed and roasted, and made into soup. I stood by with a notebook, as Mother directed her daughters and daughters-in-law, taking copious notes. And the anticipation!

It was as savoury as the meat itself. The ultimate cookout was happening before me, in the shadow of the Sphinx, and in my honour no less. And every bruise, every indignity, saddle sore and near-miss with his teeth would fade with every morsel of Clyde. Ah, Clyde, Clyde. I bear you no malice anymore. You were a bad camel, Clyde. But in the end, you were oh so good. Though I never did get a camel hair coat of you.

The ultimate cookout was happening before me, in the shadow of the Sphinx, and in my honour no less.

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Images Istanbul of

Istanbul defies expectations with its diverse sensory landscape. Christian Berg captures a cultural capital on two continents in words and photographs.

Istanbul is not just a city; it’s many in one. About 2.5 million people live in this colourful melting pot between East and West, on the very border of Europe and Asia.

It’s a city of opposites, and opposites attract: old and new, tradition and modernity, hedonism and religion, centuries-old oriental bazaars and futuristic shopping centres. The list is as endless as the water that flows down the Bosporus, the legendary strait that parts the city across Europe and Asia.

In fact, Istanbul is the only city that stretches across two continents, explaining its unique cultural diversity—an attribute that has been recognized this year with the receipt of the European Capital of Culture 2010 title.

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Sultanahmet Located in the historic neighbourhood of Emınönü, this is the oldest part of Istanbul. The centre of the city from a sightseeing point of view, it is also a bit of a tourist trap, comparable with Hanoi’s old quarter, though less crowded.

Sultanahmet is one of the more conservative areas on the European side of Istanbul and here many women wear a headscarf, even though Turkey is a secular country. The area is also home to some of the city’s most important and impressive sites, including the Hagia Sophia (a church-turned-mosqueturned-museum), the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace. This part of the city may also cause sleeplessness as the muezzins—Muslim criers—call for prayers five times per day via loudspeakers from atop the minarets.

Beyoglu A hell of a 20-minute taxi ride north of Emınönü, across the historic Golden Horn inlet, will bring you to Taksim Square in the heart of Beyoglu. Don’t be surprised if your driver drops you off a few hundred metres early if he spies an opportunity to pick up some alternative, punk-y local girls for the next ride. (At least that is what happened to my girlfriend and me.)

Taksim Square is located at the beginning of two-kilometre long Istiklal Avenue, the main shopping area in Beyoglu. On weekends this is where to meet the masses—and by masses I mean masses. There must have been some 10,000 people the first Saturday night we ventured there.

On Istiklal Avenue you can find everything (and pickpockets can easily find you), from international branded shops and huge kebab joints to beautiful garden restaurants tucked away in the back alleys around Galatasaray Square. There are fancy sky bars and basement-level second hand stores as big as Ben Thanh Market, where DJs spin between the clothing racks. This is definitely the hippest area in town, in a league with similar hotspots in London, Paris or Berlin. However, it can be difficult to find the hidden gems.

One thing I know for sure from this trip to Istanbul: Next time I will stay in Beyoglu rather than Sultanahmet. asialife HCMC 37

Crossing the Bosporus to Asia The best way to experience Istanbul’s cultural diversity is to take a ferry over the Bosporus to Asia. We took it from Kabatas, a quarter of Beyoglu, to the suburb of Üsküdar.

On deck, the sights and sounds assault your senses. The wind is in your hair, seagulls scream, ship horns blast and the muezzins’ calls can be heard in the background while drifting between Asia and Europe. For me this was the highlight of the trip. On the Asian side the city again looks totally different. It’s organized chaos, almost like Kuala Lumpur, and instantly reminds you that you’ve set foot on Asian ground again. Here, Islam reigns and all women seem to wear a headscarf.

The gender difference is stark, too, especially when you enter a small park and realize that only bearded, elderly men are sitting on the benches.

From there the ferry returns to the European side, arriving back in Emınönü district on the southern bank of the Golden Horn. The Spice Bazaar and the nearby Grand Bazaar— one of the world’s largest covered markets— stand along the river and just next door is Yeni Cami, or the New Mosque.

Upon returning to Europe there is nothing better than enjoying a sardine sandwich with squeezed lemon and a cold Efes beer under the Galata Bridge while watching local fishermen cast their lines towards the sunset.

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Besiktas Besiktas is a posh area located north of Beyoglu and home to expensive fashion brands like Marc Jacobs. Besiktas is also home to the famous Dolmabahce Palace, a relic of the once mighty Ottoman Empire that stands on the shores of the Bosporus. Unfortunately a guided tour is the only way to visit the impressive structure, which spoils the fun. Instead, have a cup of Turkish coffee overlooking the sea outside the palace before heading a few kilometres back towards Beyoglu to visit the Istanbul Modern. It is an excellent space, featuring an impressive library and inspiring contemporary Turkish art.

Also be sure to head to the financial district of Levent, where you can visit the famous hyper-post-modern Kanyon shopping mall, parts of which look like they were taken from the Death Star.

Where to Eat: Limonlu Bahce Yenicarsı Caddesi 98, Galatasaray Tel: (212) 252 10 94 A secret garden located in a back alley off Galatasary Square in Beyoglu. It has a beautiful and relaxed atmosphere and serves great local food.

9 Ece Aksoy Asmalimescit Oteller Sokak 9 Tel: (212) 245 76 28 Awesome mezze restaurant tucked away in a small side alley off Istiklal Avenue in Beyoglu.

It’s not the cheapest choice but definitely one of the best around town. Open after 7 pm.

Where to Stay: W Istanbul Suleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler, Besiktas Tel: (212) 381 2121 An uber-stylish luxury oasis in the city’s poshest area. Prices are also uber-expensive.

Where to Shop:

By Retro Istiklal Caddesi 166/C, Suriye Pasajı, Beyoglu Tel: (212) 245 64 20 Vintage heaven! No need to say any more.

Lazy Istanbul Yenicarsı Caddesi 9/A, Galatasaray, Beyoglu Tel: (212) 252 31 55 Hip local designs for the ladies. Definitely worth checking out.

Kanyon Buyukdere Caddesi 185 34394, Levent Financial District Tel: (212) 353 53 00 One of Europe’s largest shopping malls.

Reminds one of Green Belt in Manila.

The Grand Bazaar & The Spice Bazaar Experience firsthand the local trading and bargaining culture in one of the world’s biggest markets. Expect to spend way more money than you intended.

What to Read: The Bastard of Istanbul by Elif Shafak.

What to Watch: Crossing the Bridge, On the Other Side and Head On by Turkish-German director Fatih Akin.

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Nha Trang is outgrowing its backpacker identity. International hotel brands have sprung up along the strip, and developers have their sights set on the outer bays. But is Nha Trang ready for international exposure? Tom DiChristopher heads to the coastal getaway to find out what’s in store for the future. Photos by Fred Wissink and Phillip Deans. s we pulled up to the newly opened Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa on a sunny day in June, my photographer and I weren’t quite sure what to expect.

Accustomed to the cosmopolitan glitz of the Sheraton Towers Saigon, it was difficult to envision how the luxury hotel brand had insinuated itself into a beach town better known for late night rabble rousing than clinking Cliquot over formal dinner.

Upon entering the lobby, we got our answer. Sand-coloured marble led to a backlit onyx reception desk, while above, a flock of gulls frozen in crystal spiraled ceiling-ward.

Off to the side, along Connexions lobby bar, a carpet meant to mimic a bed of reeds leads to an unobstructed view of the beach; you’re never more than few paces from an ocean view. Turning 360 degrees, the attempt to deconstruct the barrier between interior and exterior is clear.

So, it wasn’t about importing elegance in some pre-fabricated form, but articulating it through Nha Trang’s well-established identity as one of Vietnam’s most beautiful beach escapes.

Those first few moments in the Sheraton Nha Trang said a lot about what’s happening in the seaside town on a broader level.

Even as more international hoteliers arrive and more three- to five-star accommodation becomes available, there’s a sense that little has changed in Nha Trang.

But is that a good thing or a bad thing?

Sun-and-sand cities along Vietnam’s 2,500

km coast are beginning to define themselves as destinations rather than stopovers on a tour of Vietnam. Some fear that Nha Trang will miss the opportunity, that it will stall and remain another signpost on “the circuit.”

“You have to understand that Vietnam is not just competition with resorts and hotels.

It’s competition from destination to destination,” says Patrick Fernandez, general manager of Diamond Bay Resort. “The competition is actually very serious.”

It’s the question on everyone’s mind: How do you add value to Nha Trang while preserving its identity as a getaway on the bay?

AsiaLIFE spoke to hospitality professionals, public relations managers and industry analysts to find out what Nha Trang needs to do as competition heats up along the coast.

Nha Trang in Perspective The question above might actually be misleading. It assume that Nha Trang has always been what people know it as today. Few people understand just how far Nha Trang has come since the early 90s better than Peter Vidotto, owner of the Sailing Club, the immensely popular restaurant, bar and water sports hub.

“What people don’t realize is, even in ’92 in Saigon, there were only two or three foreign expat bars and the Floating Hotel. And in Nha Trang there was nothing,” says Vidotto.

“We lived in a cocoon until about the year 2000. From ‘93 till 2000 it was really mostly backpackers.”

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When Vidotto set up the popular beach bar and restaurant in 1992, the White Buddha Long Son Pagoda was still visible from anywhere in town. He says he still remembers the opening in 1998 of the 4-star Nha Trang Lodge, the first structure to obstruct beachcombers’ view of the iconic statue. Soon after, Khanh Hoa Province laid the walkway that now lines Tran Phu Street, and not long after that, Vietnamese joined the legions of backpackers along what Vidotto says became regarded among domestic travellers as “their French Riviera.”

Throughout Vietnam, domestic travel has become a more and more reliable source of revenue for the tourism industry. Especially in recent years, with the global financial downturn taking its toll, inbound tourism is down, but domestic tourism is up. This years’s Hotel Survey conducted by accounting and consulting firm Grant Thornton Vietnam shows a 33.5 percent increase year-on-year in domestic guest nights.

“If you look at the demographics—where the growth in travel is—it’s actually at that domestic level,” says Matthew Lourey, corporate finance director at Grant Thorn42 asialife HCMC

ton. “International has come back to where it was, and it’s going to be a great year, but the growth—percentage-wise and where it’s coming from—is the Vietnamese middle class pushing up, travelling more.”

That said, indicators like occupancy rates have been healthiest at the budget to 3-star level. While 4- and 5-star occupancy rates dipped to 53.8 and 53.3 percent, respectively, occupancy increased to 63 percent at 3-star hotels, a 2.1 percent increase.

Currently, there are 17 three- to five-star hotels supplying about 2,574 rooms in Nha Trang. Clearly, this is raising questions about supply and demand, especially with more international brands due to arrive. Crowne Plaza is under construction on Tran Phu, and Best Western, Westin, Hilton and Marriot all plan large-scale hotels. Resort developers and operators also have their eyes on Cam Ranh Bay, the stretch that runs between Cam Ranh International Airport and Nha Trang city.

“A lot of those need to address the local market,” says Lourey. “Those who are just focused on international are going to struggle because international growth is going to be slow and steady.”

While domestic tourists and expatriates have a clear idea of what Nha Trang is, the same cannot be said for the rest of the world. Often, tourists arrive with only as much knowledge about the place as the Lonely Planet gives them. Some may view this as a problem, but others see it as an opportunity.

According to Scott Resch of PR and marketing firm Mandarin Media, the key is to focus on sending a clear message. “There’s a group of fairly sophisticated properties up in Hoi An,” says Resch. “The two golf courses, the Nam Hai, both Life Resorts understand that in order to really build a profile for that area, they need to work together, and not on their own.” (They’ve done so by launching www.vietnamgolfcoast.com, which promotes the Central Coast as a luxury golf destination.)

Diamond Bay GM Patrick Fernandez agrees that cooperation is integral to promoting Nha Trang. “Hotels and tour operators within the city have to get together and have to focus on how to compete with other destinations in Vietnam,” he says.

One strategy that Fernandez and other hoteliers such as the Novotel and Sheraton sug-

gest is focusing on attracting MICE business (meetings, incentives, conferences, events).

However, tourist infrastructure is an issue.

Anecdotally, some hoteliers say Nha Trang typically draws in MICE business that averages three nights, while Danang is attracting events spanning five nights or more. With its proximity to Hoi An, the My Son ruins and Hue, Danang is a more attractive destination for events padded with more R&R. Some in Nha Trang have already begun developing their own solutions, working with what Nha Trang has to offer. The Sheraton and Mandarin Media recently launched a team-building activity based on the hit show The Amazing Race, a citywide scavenger hunt that sends teams to landmarks like the Po Nagar Tower, Yersin Museum and the Oceanographic Institutue. A purpose-built kitchen for cooking classes and challenges was also designed in part to attract MICE. The addition of golf to Nha Trang’s portfolio will certainly be a draw, as well.“That will be a key part of it,” says Resch. “What tourism destination can you think of that’s of international appeal that doesn’t have a golf course? I can’t really think of one. I think that

will open up a lot of things for them: couples trips, group trips.”

By February next year, nine holes are scheduled to be open on Diamond Bay’s 18-hole course. The course’s driving range, the only one in Vietnam that allows golfers to drive into the sea, has been open for one year now. Vinpearl has also completed an 18-hole golf course on Hon Tre Island, but it has been plagued by water supply issues.

Renewed emphasis on diving and a push to develop sailing infrastructure could be strong draws, as well (see sidebars). What’s important, believes Fernandez, is that Nha Trang sends a consistent message. “They have to come up with some sort of an approach. This is a place for teambuilding, or this is the place for MICE,” he says. “Nowadays it’s only hotel and beach. It should be much, much more than that.”

Nha Trang also needs to address is the state of dining and nightlife. Hotel managers and tour operators say that the lack of modern, upmarket amenities is contributing to the two-night slump among foreign visitors.

Nha Trang is widely regarded as the diving capital of Vietnam, but there are limits to expanding diving . Dynamite fishing has devastated the once abundant reef system in Vietnam, leaving few viable dive sites along the extensive coast. “We’ve explored dives all over from here to Hoi An and it’s all gone,” says Chris Ephgrave, general manager of Rainbow Divers.

Competing interests also limit the potential for diving in Nha Trang. About six years ago, the lucrative bird’s nest farming industry lobbied successfully to keep divers away from much of Hon Mun Island. “The main marine park itself used to be twice as big as it is until the bird’s nest company moved onto the island,” says Ephgrave. “We lost half the dive sites overnight.”

To bolster diving in Nha Trang, and across Vietnam, Ephgrave suggests sinking ships to restore coral reefs: “The single biggest thing that would change the diving industry in Vietnam is wrecks.

Vietnam would become a focal point for the global diving community, which is a serious dollar industry.”

Pattaya, Thailand has had success with two artificial wrecks: the HTMS Khram and the HTMS Kut, sunk in 2003 and 2006, respectively. Like Nha Trang, Pattaya also suffered from reef destruction, but according to Bob James, partner and business manager of Aquanauts Dive Centre, the two dive sites, and a WWII-era wreck, have created incentives for inbound divers.

“Pattaya is definitely not the best diving in Thailand,” says Bob James. “[Wreck diving] has made us a destination and put us on the map.”

Currently, Aquanauts dive the wrecks about four times a week. Coral growth has been slower on the Kut, which is located in a less bio-diverse inner island chain, but the Khram has attracted sea turtles, juvenile barracuda and large bat fish with its rapid growth. “Even since 2003, the Khram is completely covered over by coral,” says James. “It grew over, really, in about two or three years.”

In Pattaya, a coalition of five dive centres, the Thai Tourist Administration, the Royal Thai Navy and Pattaya city government have worked under the banner of the Pattaya Dive Club to promote Pattaya as a dive destination.

While restored reefs will greatly benefit fish stocks if managed correctly, selling wrecks on conservation alone won't work, says Ephgrave: “The main thing is linking it to a tourist dollar...

Ultimately, the only things that get done and get done well, it's because it becomes commercially viable.” asialife HCMC 43

“We hear it all the time,” says Chris Ephgrave, general manager of Rainbow Divers.

“People come in, ‘Oh yeah, we’re staying for 10 days.’ Two or three days later, they’re on a bus out to Mui Ne or Hoi An.” “‘Where can I go to eat?’ and ‘Where can I go shopping?’ Those are the two questions guests ask,” says Isaline Goy, F&B manager at Six Senses Nha Trang. “What Nha Trang lacks terribly is consistency… There is no real choice, variety or selection. The quality is also not there.”

Time and time again, hoteliers and commentators point to Sailing Club as an asset to Nha Trang. “Sailing Club is a evidence that if you do it right you can make a lot of money,” says Matthew Lourey.

What perhaps makes Sailing Club a success is that it has grown at pace with Nha Trang and continues to fill gaps in dining and nightlife. The dining area actually encompasses three restaurants under one roof. Sandals is the Sailing Club’s branded international eatery, while Sen covers Vietnamese cuisine and Taj Mahal serves Indian food in partner-

Nha Trang, and Khanh Hoa Province in general, has perhaps the best conditions in Vietnam for sea tourism, sailing and yachting in particular. Along Khanh Hoa’s 385 km of coastline, there are four major bays: Van Phong, Nha Phu, Nha Trang and Cam Ranh. According to the Khanh Hoa Culture, Tourism and Sports Authority, the province’s waters have the greatest depths in the country and are closest in proximity to international maritime waters.

Nha Trang’s history with sea tourism has not always been smooth. Two years ago, England-based recreational water sports and yacht charter company Sunsail pulled out of Vietnam due to red tape.

Peter Vidotto, founder of Sailing Club, was involved in the venture and says, “It was a sad day for Nha Trang. Local authorities should realize the importance of such ventures in a tourism environment.”

In the long-term, there are marina projects in the works, including at the An Vien Beach Residential Complex, a 71-hectare development just five minutes from the strip, at the mainland end of the cable car to Vinpearl Land. More immediate developments also point towards a brighter future for boaters.

From October 21 to 25, the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club will set up shop at the Sheraton Nha Trang for the biennial VinaCapital Hong Kong to Vietnam Race.

After a challenging 656-nautical mile journey, the longest Category One race in Asia, yachts will round Hon Tre Island and pull into Nha Trang Bay. The race is

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ship with HCM City’s Ganesh.

In 2003, Vidotto opened built on Sailing Club's with Louisiane Brewhouse, a day resort and micro-brewery spread over 5,000 square metres of beachfront property, complete with a pool. The idea was to establish a day-time counterpart to Sailing Club, which has increasingly focused on throwing weekly beach parties that draw in hundreds—sometimes thousands—of revelers.

The Sheraton, as well, developed its food and beverage venues with an eye for what’s missing in Nha Trang. “We want to be the frontrunners so everyone has to beat us,” says Michiel de Kleer, F&B manager.

In addition to its all-day buffet restaurant, Feast, the Sheraton houses Steam and Spice, an upmarket venue specializing in dim sum and hand-pulled noodles. On the ground level, Toastina serves freshly baked pastries, sandwiches and coffee on an open, beachfront patio, a simple concept that the Sheraton realized was missing in Nha Trang.

Connexions and Wine Bar in the lobby and mezzanine, respectively, round out Sheraton’s portfolio, offering chic lounge spaces serving spirits and wines from around the world, as well as signature cocktails.

The overall strategy is to consistently

part of the larger China Coast Race Week, an officially approved and sanctioned qualifying competition for one of the world’s most renowned competitions, the Rolex Sydney to Hobart.

“Nha Trang has developed into a real tourist destination, with accommodation and bars in reasonable supply, and ample anchorage and shelter for the boats,” said Lindsay Lyons, the race’s promotions manager. “Plus, of all the destinations to which we run races, Nha Trang is definitely the most family-friendly, attracting partners and kids to travel down from Hong Kong to make a holiday of it.”

Just last month, the World Match Racing Tour announced that Nha Trang will be one of the nine countries included in next year’s tour. The globe-spanning nautical challenge is sanctioned by the International Sailing Federation and stands to expose Nha Trang to a massive audience. Television coverage reaches more than 600 million households, and the WMRT website attract about 30,000 unique viewers each month. What’s more, the WMRT body will train a team of Vietnamese nationals to compete in the race.

“What’s happening in Nha Trang next year, it’s just another stepping stone for the exposure of sailing in Vietnam and awareness to the authorities that other Asian countries allow yachts to come and go as they please,” says Vidotto. “It’s a large market and with Vietnam’s wonderful coastline it would draw for yachtsman across the world.”

look for ways to improve the experience for guests. De Kleer says he see too many venues who “do one thing and they stick with it.”

The remedy: “You’ve got to keep it fresh and fun,” says de Kleer.

When you ask hospitality professionals what Nha Trang needs, one thing comes up consistently: more flights, particularly international flights.

Nha Trang came one step closer to this goal last December when the Civil Aviation Authority designated Cam Ranh an international airport. However, Nha Trang is not the only destination in Vietnam trying to attract regional carriers. Development in Danang is geared towards the northeast Asia market with its focus on golf and massive resorts, and Phu Quoc, while underdeveloped, benefits from Visa exemption status.

So far, no airports outside of HCM City and Hanoi have succeeded in drawing a sustainable flow of international air traffic. Given the scale of the tourism industry in Vietnam, says Lourey, this is not out of the ordinary.

“Let’s look at Thailand, which has eight times the tourist numbers that Vietnam has,” he explains. “It has five international airports, and really only two of them—Phuket and Bangkok—have any numbers.”

At the domestic level, there have been only two domestic carriers on the scene since Jetstar Pacific entered the market in 2007—not enough to spur vigorous competition. “You haven’t got the competitive drivers coming through,” says Lourey.

Currently, Vietnam Airlines is the only carrier flying into Cam Ranh Airport. Following National Day on September 2, Jetstar cut it’s seasonal Hanoi – Nha Trang route. Air

Mekong is scheduled to launch domestic service this month, but will not include Nha Trang on its inaugural route map. A VietJet Air representative told AsiaLIFE the company will focus on domestic flights between Hanoi, HCM City and Danang for the first year or two while exploring opportunities throughout Southeast and Northeast Asia in its next stages of development.

Hoteliers and agents also voice concern over the capacity of overland travel to deliver tourists to Nha Trang. Rail travel from HCM City to Nha Trang takes about 12 hours in conditions that attract few foreigners. Feasibility studies on a new high-speed railway linking HCM City and Nha Trang are being planned, but the projected year of completion is no sooner than 2020.

In at least one way, overland travel could provide a solution. Lourey suggests that Khanh Hoa and Lam Dong provinces could boost the attraction of Nha Trang and Dalat by promoting trips to the two provincial capitals as a mountain-and-beach experience. The destinations are just four hours apart, separated by a magnificent mountain pass. The problem, as Lourey puts it, is that “Provinces do nothing but compete with one another.”

Another issue is the nature of bus travel in Vietnam. Though the mountain pass from Dalat has been upgraded in recent years, there is currently no luxury bus operating in

Vietnam, and rest stops leave much to be desired.

For years, Nha Trang has been synonymous with the strip, the area that stretches along seaside Tran Phu Street. But as more developers look beyond this area, what is meant by Nha Trang will likely change.

“What’s interesting about Nha Trang is it's the only place [in Vietnam] where you’ve got island competing with mainland,” says Matthew Lourey. “The islands present a second way to experience Nha Trang.”

The clearest example is of course the Vinpearl Resort and Spa, the 485-room hotel and villa complex on Hon Tre Island. Six Senses has also established its Hideaway brand on Ninh Van Bay with 58 pool villas perched on a secluded island north of Nha Trang. Hon Tam Resort has followed a similar model, building boutique bungalows over on Hon Tam Island.

On the mainland, Diaomond Bay Resort has been at the forefront of expansion beyond the strip. It's a sprawling complex of garden villas and condominium accommodation with two private beaches, recreation, watersports, golfing and conference facilities to accommodate up to 1,000 people.

Development along Cam Ranh Bay, the stretch between the airport and the strip, could also rewrite the book on Nha Trang.

Next year, Sailing Club will attempt to

repeat the success they’ve had with their resort in Mui Ne by establishing Xanh, an ecofriendly complex of 50 boutique bungalows designed with grass covered roofs to reduce energy consumption, as well as condominium accommodation along Cam Ranh Bay. Scheduled for completion in spring 2011, it will be the first resort to come online along Cam Ranh.

The challenge says Louis Walters, who will serve as Xanh’s general manager, is in convincing people that Nha Trang is a viable weekend getaway. “Compared to Mui Ne, [Nha Trang] is still a tourist destination,” says Walters. “You work with that and then start marketing and promoting the new resort as a weekend destination, which in my opinion still makes more sense. You’ve got the airport.

Instead of five hours [to Mui Ne], it’s a 45-minute flight.”

In both the short and long term, that may be a good strategy. With airlines prioritizing Danang for international flights, it may be years before Nha Trang attracts a consistent flow of inbound tourism. That gives local government and the hospitality industry time to rally around a central message and build the infrastructure to deliver on it.

“The market is picking up. The high end tourism is coming in,” says Vidotto. “That progress of developing into a high-end destination I think will happen. It’s just some time off.”

asialife HCMC 45

chef's recommendation

Pioneering restaurateur Trinh Diem Vy shares secrets about Hoi An classics.

By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Wakako Iguchi.

Trinh Diem Vy knows the food of Hoi An. From age 8, she worked at the Hoi An Market, and later helped her parents run their family restaurant in adolescence. In 1992, she opened Mermaid Restaurant, the venue that established her reputation among expatriates and tourists with its menu of home-style Vietnamese fare. White Lantern opened in 2000 to accommodate the growing tourist legions, and next came Cargo Club, Hoi An’s first patisserie and bakery. Befitting its prime location overlooking the Thu Bon River, Cargo Club now serves an eclectic range of international dishes born of Vy’s collaboration with foreign chefs in residence. And finally, she sublimated all her experience in Morning Glory, which features her personal creations, street food classics and recipes from her childhood.

“The street food delicacies and other special dishes I remember from childhood are all on this menu. It has been my 46 asialife HCMC

passion to recreate recipes that have been lost or forgotten in their original form,” says Vy of Morning Glory.

Indeed, Vy has dedicated her life to restoring these classic recipes, studying with both her grandmother and local vendors to understand their essences.

With so many restaurants in Hoi An, we turned to Vy to ask where to go for an authentic gastronomic experience.

Mi Quang Mornings

Breakfast in Hoi An—and throughout Quang Nam Province generally—means a bowl of mi quang. The dish includes la mi (al dente rice noodles coloured yellow by turmeric), pork, sautéed shrimp, peanuts and sesame rice crackers in a shallow pork bone broth sweetened by tomato, pineapple and pumpkin. Vy’s favourite mi quang is sold by a street vendor who sets up shop just next door to Mermaid Restaurant (2 Tran Phu). It’s not just convenience

that brings her to this stall; Vy has fond memories of mi quang served by the current vendor’s mother and grandmother. “It’s still the same recipe,” she says.

“It’s the only mi quang I like to have for breakfast.” If you want to get a taste, you’ll have to pull up a stool early, between 6 and 9 am.

Intrepid gastronomes might want to know that in Phu Chiem, a town about 40 minutes from Hoi An, mi quang is served with chicken, a real treat says Vy.

Cao Lau Clues

Cao lau is a work-intensive and process-specific dish featuring rice noodles that are soaked in mineral-rich local water, mixed with tree ash from a native plant, smoked and dried.

Despite the ritual behind cao lau, Vy says visitors can easily get an underwhelming bowl.

“When you hold a bowl of cao lau from 100 places, it looks the same. The difference is in the

details,” warns Vy. For her fix, Vy heads out of the Old Town to 26 Thai Phien, near an area where street vendors congregate at the intersection at Tran Cao Van Street. The cao lau vendor there gets points for firmness of noodles, greens optimally mixed for full flavour and broth boiled down from quality meat.

Central Coast Stew

If you want to try a lesser known local dish at the same location, leave some room for gio ham dau den. Served in the afternoon, this is a black bean soup stewed with pig leg. Though it’s not as accessible as a bowl of pho, gio ham dau den is popular among locals. The vendor at Tran Cao Van and Thai Phien puts out her pot at noon, and typically ladles her last bowlful around 2 pm (3 pm if business is slow). What's so good about this particular gio ham dau den? Again, it’s steeped in the knowledge of generations past.

banh bao vac

banh uot thit nuong

mi quang

cao lau

“I used to eat from her mum,” says Vy. The current vendor herself is getting older, and Vy says she worries that no one will inherit her secrets.

A Rose by Any Other Name

When it comes to banh bao vac, better know among tourists as White Rose, Vy can only offer advice. While it’s served at virtually every restaurant in Hoi An, banh bao vac is only made in one place: 533 Hai Ba Trung.

Everyone in town sources the ubiquitous dish from Tran Tuan Ngai, who uses his grandfather’s 120-year-old recipe: cha tam (crushed shrimp), onion, salt, pepper and the family’s special spice mix, all wrapped in a glutinous rice flour dumpling. So what’s the difference from restaurant to restaurant?

Freshness. Left too long, the rice flour becomes dry and you’re left with a wilted White Rose.

Vy also prefers it with a good shallot oil.

Munchies on the Move

Vy’s final suggestion will take you to Hoi An's riverside public performance area that straddles Bach Dang and Nguyen Thai Hoc streets. Follow the smell of smoky grilled pork to find the town’s purveyors of banh uot thit nuong—succulent meat and local herbs wrapped in steamed rice paper and served with fish sauce. Like many street vendors, the women serving banh uot thit nuong haul their wares over the shoulder in two baskets hung from either end of a plank.

Look for the crouching cooks fanning skewered hunks of pork next to this portable kitchen.

If you’d like to consolidate your culinary tour of Hoi An, Vy serves many of these dishes at Morning Glory in an open kitchen where guests can see them prepared up close. For those who want to step behind the stove, she also runs cooking classes. For more information, visit restaurant-hoian.com.

Phnom Penh gets a homegrown alternative to ubiquitous lager with the opening of Kingdom Breweries, a state-of-the-art facility turning out pilsner on the banks of the Tonle Sap. Nora Lindström samples their premium brew. Photos by James Grant.

Opening a brewery in Cambodia may not be the most obvious idea. The country’s average beer consumption currently stands at a lowly seven litres per person per year. For Peter Brongers, CEO of new Kingdom Breweries, however, the venture not only made perfect business sense, but also gave him a chance to fulfil a long-term dream: to drink his own beer.

“The most beautiful thing in life is combining business with what you like to do,” he says.

Beer-drinking in Cambodia is modest compared to doubledigit per capita consumption in other parts of Asia, where brewers are banking on big growth.

48 asialife HCMC

However, Brongers claims there is lots of money to be made.

“The beer market here is growing very fast.”

The venture took off late last year following an investment

by Leopard Cambodia Fund, the country’s first private equity company. “It was a sensible investment for them,” Brongers says. “We wanted to start a small brewery that makes a quality product that not only tastes good, but also looks good, has a distinct identity, espouses green values and looks after its people.”

Though the first batch of bottles was only filled this past August, Brongers is confident of

success. To brew the company’s flagship pilsner, only the best Czech hops and premium German malt are used, with no artificial additives. A German brewmaster, Peter Haupenthal, was brought in to oversee production. “We’re the first microbrewery in Cambodia,” he says. “There are brew pubs that make beer only for their own consumption, but we hope we can sell everything we make here.”

According to Haupenthal, real pilsner, such as Pilsner Urquell, is made in the Czech Republic using premium local malt and hops, with the water in the Pilsen region giving the beer

its distinct taste.

“We’re as close to a pilsner as we can be,” he says, “no one else in Cambodia does that.”

With a strong, crisp and slightly bitter aftertaste, Kingdom Pilsener is certainly in a different league from the typical lager available in Cambodia.

Perfect on a hot day, half a pint of the brew leaves one with a sense of having drunk real beer.

While it is now available in bars, restaurants and shops around Phnom Penh, a more interesting way to sample the beer is to visit the factory itself.

Tours for visitors are set to be organized on a regular basis beginning this month, giving par-

ticipants a chance to first learn about how the beer is produced and later enjoy some frothy cold ones at the establishment’s bar, which features great views over the Tonle Sap River.

The building itself is also of interest. Designed by Uk Sameth and initially built to house a condensed milk factory, it is a recognized piece of Khmer New Architecture, the style pioneered in the mid-19th century after Cambodia gained independence. In 2009, Kingdom Breweries began renovating what at that point was an NGO-run soy milk production facility into a state-of-the-art European brewery. Recognizing the architectural value of the building, Peter Brongers says he and his partners tried to keep as much as possible in its original state, even restoring some of the original elements of the building. “Uk Sameth came to see the building recently and was very happy,” he says.

Though Brongers and Haupenthal are currently focused on getting their first batches of beer out, plans are in place for expansion. In the future, they may use Cambodian ingredients

to create seasonal beers, such as mango or even peppercorn flavoured beverages. The two are also considering using rice instead of malt as a basis for another beer. “We need to find out if people like it,” Haupenthal says.

Calling the venture a boutique brewery, Brongers says he wants to create a beer brand with distinction. Beyond brewing premium pilsner, that also involves creating a distinct brand identity. “We want to be hip and classic at the same time,” he says. “We also want to promote positive aspects of Cambodia.” To celebrate the beauty and riddles of the country, the company has adopted four local endangered animals as their symbols: the clouded leopard, the pangolin, the impressed tortoise and Cambodia’s intriguingly elusive ox, the kouprey.

Dedicated to the clouded leopard, the first pilsner was presented to the public at the brewery’s grand opening on August 21.

Kingdom Breweries, 1748 National Road 5. For more information, visit www.kingdombreweries.com.

asialife HCMC 49

The King and I I love a good hot dog. I know it's a vice and a sin, but there it is. I recently learned that a guy named Charlie Wong was selling hot dogs from a little pushcart stand on De Tham Street, in the Pham. Charlie is Chinese via Malaysia and UK. He went to school with TV chef Jaimie Oliver. They call Charlie the Hot Dog King of Saigon because he supplies his superior dogs to all the better movie houses in town.

He set up his stand as a hobby.

He likes the street life.

I headed for De Tham, and there he was, tending to a little push-cart bearing the proud logo “Red Hot Saigon.” Charlie wore a long white apron and one of those white paper hats, like in a Happy Days soda shop.

“You're Charlie Wong,” I said.

“I've heard about you.”

“I know you, too” he says.

“I've seen your picture. Hot Dog?” “Yeah. Regular size. Mustard and kraut.”

King Charlie plucked one from the steamer. He deftly slipped it into a bun, slathered it with yellow mustard and dressed it with pungent kraut.

He expertly wrapped half its length in white paper and handed me the dog. I bit into that puppy and the juice burst in my mouth, the mustard sang on my tongue while the kraut crunched between my teeth and gave up its tangy goodness. I was in Dog Heaven for a few bites. Then Charlie said, “I read one of your books.”

“Oh? Which one?”

“The Fire Never Dies.”

“Like it?”

“Parts. Especially the story about your romance with the woman named Fatima at Penang, Malaysia. You even wrote about the oxtail soup you had at the E&O Hotel.”

Ahhh, Fatima and Chef Lim's oxtail soup. In fact, a painting of Fatima graces the cover of the 50 asialife HCMC

book. It was my first doomed romance, a lifetime ago. She was a Muslim Malay, I was a G.I. And nothing could go wrong with that affair but the ending, which was preordained the moment we met. In the course of the affair, there was a dinner at the grand old E&O hotel, a holdover of the British empire oozing history and romance. It was also my first oxtail soup.

Callow country bumpkin that I was, I had never tasted anything

I had been brought to a living connection with one of the most beautiful nights of my life by a cheap sausage. so expertly and professionally prepared. I think I had never tasted anything so delicious.

And this in the midst of an affair never so intense or exotic.

I still had a mouthful of hot dog when Charlie mentioned Fatima, and Lim's oxtail soup.

Memories long dormant flooded into my mind, into my heart and into my mouth. I could suddenly see Fatima standing beside me, wearing her signature red sarong, long black hair cascading down her shoulders.

And despite the mustard, kraut and all else, I was tasting the oxtail soup. And I was tasting memory. And I was tasting love.

I was tasting all that's good in life.

I swallowed what was still in my mouth, then began to wrap up the remnants in the white paper. When you're tasting

memory, it's best not to taste anything else. The Hot Dog King of Saigon asked if there was a problem with the dog.

“No,” I said. “And no disrespect to your dog. But I'm thinking about that oxtail soup, and all that went with it. I'm still remembering that soup all these years later. If I live to be 100, I doubt I'll remember this dog, but I'll remember that soup.”

“Yeah,” he said. “I remember the soup, too. My dad made it for you.”

“Say what?”

“Chef Wong Lim. He was executive chef at the E&O at that time. And that was his secret recipe. I remembered it as I read your story.”

“Say what?”

“Six months before you arrived in Penang, Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip stayed at the E&O and my dad served them that same oxtail soup. From his reports, I'd say they liked it almost as much as you. Of course, they didn't have the seasoning of a star-crossed romance.”

Suddenly, the remnants of my hot dog seemed awfully humble, and yet important. I had been brought to a living connection with one of the most beautiful nights of my life by a cheap sausage. I didn't know whether to throw it to the curb or freeze-dry and frame it. So I took it home. And I ate it. But all I tasted was oxtail soup, love and excitement. It's a bad pun, but a link was a link this time.

King Charlie gave me a very rich gift after that dog on De Tham Street. He sent me his late father's secret recipe for oxtail soup; the same as enjoyed by Elizabeth and Phillip, me and many others. And now you can find it here: sites.google.com/ site/richardsilverpen/oxtailrecipe.

-Richard Sterling

Pasha Leaning back, chef Ismet Ondek reminisces about his native Turkey: the winding alleys that snake from Taksim Square, bazaars filled to bursting with aromatic spices, fish sandwiches delicately seasoned with lemon and elderly men sipping leisurely at freshly-brewed and fragrant apple tea. It’s an atmosphere he and his fiancée Tran Tuong Vi have tried to recreate at their newly opened restaurant Pasha.

And, as we raise our raki—a sweet aniseed-flavoured spirit made from white grapes—and say sherefe (cheers in Turkish) it really does feel as though we’ve been temporarily transported to his homeland.

Ismet trained as a chef in Istanbul and later in Vienna, before moving to Singapore 14 years ago. There, he has two Turkish restaurants—both

A Turkish restoran with relaxation on the menu.

By Beth Young. Photos by Fred Wissink. named Cappadocia Café after the area where he was born. It’s his goal to introduce modern Turkish fare—cuisine that fuses Oriental and European flavours—to wider Asia. He’s a perfectionist though, and as such, only quality ingredients are used in the dishes he prepares. Vi jokes that while Vietnam exports rice, Ismet imports his from Japan. Among other foodstuffs whipped into Turkish specialties are Grecian vine leaves, French chickpeas, Indian lentils, Spanish black olives and lamb from New Zealand.

Pasha’s mezze platter (228,000 VND) is an artfully prepared selection of Turkish starters containing some of the above, including sigara boregi (cigar-shaped pastry filled with feta cheese), freshly-baked hummus-topped bread, falafel (deep-fried ground chick-

pea patties), tabouleh (a salad containing bulgur, tomato, spring onion, mint and parsley) and yaprak sarma (stuffed vine leaves) with cacik, a tart, yoghurt dipping sauce on the side.

The extensive list of mains caters for everyone: vegetarians, carnivores and appetites of all sizes. The ispanakali pide is a great meat-free option, for diners seeking a light meal. Essentially it is a Turkish “pizza” base coated with chopped tomatoes, parsley and spicy chilli and smothered in spinach, feta and a cracked egg (190,000 VND).

The Pasha Mixed Grill (380,000 VND), on the other hand, is a meal designed for two, but easily big enough to feed more. The stainless steel tray comes piled with a succulent beef, lamb and vegetable barbecued shish kebab. Alongside lies two more kebab varieties: iskender (bread

topped with thinly-sliced grilled meat, vegetable sauce and yoghurt) and the classic doner.

The ornate shisha pipes (189,000 VND) available for after-dinner smoking again confirm the couple’s desire to evoke a glimmer of laid-back Turkish lifestyle. They contain exotic mint-grape- and apple-scented tobacco sourced from Dubai and Egypt, among a host of other flavours. As Ismet says, “The Turks know how to relax.” With thick, strong coffee in hand; Tarkan, Turkey’s answer to Michael Jackson, crooning through the speakers; and a belly full of hearty yet healthy Turkish fare, it’s easy to understand what he means.

25 Dong Du, District 1 Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn Open daily 9 am to 2 am asialife HCMC 51

Ganh Nguyen Minh Khoa hails from Canh Ranh, a small seaside town about 60km from Nha Trang. He says his two HCM City-based restaurants, both named Ganh, are built on the abundance of rich childhood memories he acquired while living there.

As a boy, Khoa would spend his afternoons with his grandmother Nguyen Thi The, a woman well-versed in the art of Vietnamese cooking—Nha Trang style. Each day after school, he would run to her house and then accompany her to the local market where she would sift painstakingly through the wares on display.

She always carried the fresh produce she chose back home in traditional woven twin baskets, known as ganh, hoisted across 52 asialife HCMC

A restaurant serving Nha Trang-style cuisine generations old.

By Beth Young. Photos by Kerry Manning. her shoulders.

Those baskets, his beloved ba, now 80, and the flavourful fare she would fashion in her modest Canh Ranh kitchen, are the inspiration behind Ganh.

Khoa has inherited his grandmother’s commitment to sourcing quality ingredients, too. While he buys his vegetables from HCM City, everything else is transported daily from Nha Trang. Every night his parents—who still live in Canh Ranh—load up a van with groceries, which arrives in Saigon around 5 am, ready to be transformed into south-central coast delicacies.

Growing up near the ocean, Khoa was raised on seafood and Ganh’s menu reflects this.

The bun ca—a bowl of steaming

fragrant fish broth with vermicelli—is just one of the many options. Packed with chunks of fresh and peppery ground fish, all it needs is a little adornment.

Crunchy bean sprouts, bap chuoi (banana flowers) and chilli to taste complete the soup, which is unique to Nha Trang.

Though seafood was a staple, Khoa’s favourite childhood dish was nem nuong—grilled pork and vegetables wrapped in rice paper. Ganh’s version (40,000 VND for two people) is true to Khoa’s grandmother’s recipe— light with tangy green mango and star fruit and a signature crunch owed to the deep-fried rice paper that’s rolled inside, also. According to Khoa, the dipping sauce (tuong dau phong), made from peanuts, minced

meat, shrimp, nuoc mam (fish sauce) and sugar can make or break the meal. He says, timing is crucial and each component must be added at exactly the right moment, to ensure optimum taste.

It’s this attention to detail and Khoa’s desire to showcase the food he grew up with that gives Ganh its warm atmosphere.

Then again, anything built on such fond memories and strong familial ties, couldn’t feel anything but.

28 Le Thi Rieng, District 1 Tel: 6678 3977 Open daily 7 am to 10:30 pm 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, District 3 Tel: 3829 5243 Open daily 9 am to 10:30 pm

Gringos Bar & Grill When a local restaurateur told us the fish tacos at Gringos Bar & Grill weren’t just “good for Vietnam,” but just really good, we decided it was time to check out HCM City’s newest Mexican food joint. What we found was an operation dedicated to recreating the dining experiences that owner Linh Phanroy grew up with in Southern California.

Recalling the hole-in-the-wall taquerias and mobile taco trucks of his native San Diego, Gringos features a small menu of dishes made from freshly prepared ingredients, including homemade red sauce, guacamole, sour cream and salsa fresca.

The fish tacos (35,000 VND) are perhaps the best example of the premium placed on authenticity. The regional varia-

tion Gringos serves combines beer-battered fish, crisp shredded cabbage and a sweet white sauce (spiced mayo with lime).

Though the traditional beer base—Corona, which is cheap in the States—is available in HCM City, Phanroy tried using Tiger and San Miguel to cut costs.

Unhappy with the results, he went with the pricier Corona.

“Corona with a twist of lime just makes the beer batter,” says Phanroy.

Also on the menu are two deep-fried classics—taquitos (100-110,000 VND) and empanadas (35-40,000 VND)—as well as quesadillas (100,000 VND) and nachos grandes (120,000 VND), all served with garlic and lime chicken or carne asada marinated beef, imported from

San Diego-style Mexican minus the taco truck.

By Tom DiChristopher. Photos by Kerry Manning.

Australia. If it takes more than a few minutes for your meal to reach you, it’s because the kitchen team serves tortillas and chips made fresh from imported corn flower. “They’re literally back there pressing out tortillas on every order,” says Phanroy.

“In San Diego, if you don’t have fresh tortillas, you don’t have a business.”

On the drink menu, Phanroy introduced HCM City to his takes on two beverages common in Southern California: the horchata, a cinnamon rice milk, and the Orange Bang, a whipped drink made from milk, fresh orange juice and vanilla (both 40,000 VND). For his margaritas, Phanroy eschewed the sugary, slushy variety and went for the classic, serving the holy trinity of

tequila, Cointreau and fresh lime juice on the rocks (80,000 VND).

Though the food is what’s earned Gringos its reputation in a short amount of time, a generous happy hour from 5 to 9 pm nightly and drink specials have kept patrons after dinner.

Gringos attracts foosballers with league play on Monday nights, while all-night happy hour prices and a live DJ are the draw on Taco Tuesdays.

Margarita Wednesdays offer free-flow margaritas during happy hour (300,000 VND) or all night (500,000 VND), and Tequila Thursdays give patrons a free shot with Coronas.

38 Ton Thap Thiep, D1 Tel: 3600 2509 Open from 11 am till late asialife HCMC 53

Behind the Design:

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat

By Tom DiChristopher

In 2004, Six Senses got a unique chance to recreate the experience enjoyed by French colonials vacationing in Dalat. On a hill overlooking the city, the resort management and development company discovered 17 villas built in the 1920s and 30s that had weathered the tumultuous 20th century remarkably well.

A guided walk through Ana Mandara Villas Dalat (today operated privately) is evidence that the planners made the most of the opportunity. Constructed during a golden age of architectural innovation, the villas draw on various styles of the time 54 asialife HCMC

to achieve a modern elegance that the management is keen to preserve.

Villa 5 (oppostie page) in particular embodies the principles of Streamline Moderne, a style of late Art Deco that emerged in the 1930s and espoused curving, aerodynamic surfaces; geometric forms; long, horizontal edges; nautical inspiration; and a subdued colour palette. These elements are in evidence in the playful porthole windows, the window-lined turret and the overarching austerity. Though Streamline Moderne architecture is more prominent in urban

landscapes (the Le Thanh Tonfacing façade of the Rex Hotel, for example), the cobblestone exterior and wood-framed doors and windows unify the structure with its alpine surroundings.

To complement the period aesthetic, original materials are preserved and techniques from the past employed where possible. Rather than an oilbased or acrylic paint, a powder and water mixture that French colonials would have used gives the walls a chalky texture. The yellow concrete stairs and stone tile floors must be cleaned with

a special solvent so that they don’t lose their surface texture.

(The factory that manufactured them closed long ago.) Two inhouse carpenters regularly treat the exposed beams in attic-style bedrooms, door and window frames and ceiling rafters to preserve the original wood.

To elaborate on the aesthetic, antiques sourced from throughout Vietnam are paired with furnishings reminiscent of the era. New features like clawfoot tubs and copper light fixtures were chosen for their associations with a bygone sense of sophistication.

The affluence of the original inhabitants was a boon to the project of transforming residences into a resort. The largest villa was set aside for Le Petit Dalat Restaurant and Bar. The high-ceilinged ground floor dining room lent itself to a modernday restaurant with its balcony stairway perched over a hearth, soaring glass doors and an exterior porch and patio space that overlook Dalat. The building

did see one major renovation: The roof had to be removed to lower a massive wooden slab, cut in one piece, into the wine room, where guests can enjoy intimate tastings.

They are difficult to distinguish, but two structures are actually entirely new: the poolside bar and a garden-fronted villa on the outskirts of the property that’s large enough to accommodate an extended family. asialife HCMC 55

MOPED MEMORIES FOR ONE COLLECTOR, FRENCH-MADE MOPEDS PROVIDE A LINK TO THE PAST.

BY TOM DICHRISTOPHER. PHOTOS BY FRED WISSINK. When Nguyen Trung Dong first saw the black 1960 Mobylette moped, he recognized it immediately. It looked almost identical to the one he used to ride with his late elder brother, who died in battle during the American War in 1972.

For any collector of antique motorbikes, it would be a thrilling find. But for Dong it was something of a reunion. “I had a dream when I was young to ride it,” he says.

While Vespas, Lambrettas and Honda Cubs have long been regarded as icons of old time Saigon, the French-made Mobylette and Vélosolex mopeds in Dong’s collections occupy a less prominent spot in the design landscape of collective memory. Like their betterknown Italian counterparts, both were released post-WWII, when the devastated countries of Europe required light, affordable transport. The Vélosolex was created in 1946 by French carburetor manufacturer Solex, while pioneering motorbike company Motobecane released the Mobylette in 1949.

According to Dong and websites dedicated to documenting Saison’s history, Vélosolex were introduced to Vietnam in 1950

by Jean Comte Establishments, then located on Norodon Boulevard (now Le Duan). Mobylettes entered the market about five years later. Typically they 56 asialife HCMC

were owned by affluent families. Dong’s father, who also owned a Mobylette, worked for a private foreign shipping company, while his brother was an officer in the Army of the Republic of Vietnam. Back then, says Dong, a customer would have purchased a Mobylette along Charner Boulevard (now Nguyen Hue), where various automotive dealerships were located during the French and American years.

Today Dong owns nearly 20 motorbikes, including three Mobylettes and two Vélosolex, which he displays outside La Brasserie, the French restaurant in Phu My Hung he co-owns.

He began collecting motorbikes about five years ago when it became too cost prohibitive to store his collection of classic Citroen, Mercedes and BMW cars. However, it’s not a cheap hobby.

“It costs at least $1,000 to rebuild [a Mobylette]. The original cost is around 5 to 10 million dong, but you have to spend another 5 to 10 million dong to rebuild it.”

To complete refurbishments, Dong salvages pieces from scrap yards or has new parts fabricated from scratch. Sometimes giving new life to a moped means stripping another.

Surprisingly, once restored, they’re possessed of more vigor than you’d expect; Dong is a

member of Cau Lac Bo Xe Co, a motorbike club whose activities include a classic moped tour that charts a course from HCM City to Phu Quoc.

When asked whether he thinks these machines might catch on among college students as the Honda Cub has, Dong is doubtful. “Before you run [the moped] you have to start it like a bicycle. It’s hard to do in the beginning,” he says.

“The new generation is a little bit lazy. They want to start by just [pushing] a button.”

The bikes are certainly a throwback to a more patient age. Dong calls on his assistants to start a cyan-coloured Mobylette, affectionately referred to

among enthusiasts as le bleue.

After a strenuous peddle, the engine putters to life, sounding something like a lawnmower.

To rev up the Vélosolex, another assistant runs alongside it as on-lookers giggle and point.

The tiny engine buzzes, the whole accordion-and-barrelshaped thing bobbing visibly above the front tyre.

You probably wouldn’t want to depend on one of the mopeds during a HCMC rush hour— but they sure look good.

For a closer look at these classic mopeds, head to La Brasserie at 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7.

Open from 8 am to 2 pm and 6 to 10 pm daily. asialife HCMC 57

Elisabeth Rolskov’s label ER-Couture celebrates the fusion of East and West, fashioning garments from luxurious, natural fabrics that take on a Scandinavian silhouette with exotic Oriental-inspired detail.

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asialife HCMC 59

60 asialife HCMC

Photographer: Fred Wissink Model: Marta Oriti Hair: Anh Huy Make-up: Giang Le Dang ER-Couture Level 2, An Phu Supermarket, 43 Thao Dien, District 2 asialife HCMC 61

Offers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

listings

Philippine Airways 229 Dong Khoi, D3 Tel: 3822 2241 www.philippineairlines.com Operates daily service from HCM City to Manila, offering fare options through the PAL Econo Light Class.

hotel & travel AIRLINES Air Asia 254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810 www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bangkok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

Air France 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82 Fax: 3822 0537 www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com Hong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport.

Fares start at about $300.

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com Budget branch of Australian Qantas flies into Can Tho, Danang, Hanoi, Hai Phong, HCM City, Hue, Nha Trang and Vinh and operates cheap flights from HCM City to Siem Reap and Bangkok.

Check out Friday Fare Frenzy online promotion from 2 to 5 pm every Friday.

Malaysia Airlines www.malaysiaairlines.com

escape

Royal Brunei Level 4, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3914 6868 www.bruneiair.com Royal Brunei provides scheduled service across Asia, the Middle East, United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

Thai Airways 65 Nguyen Du, Tel: 3829 2810 29 Le Duan, D1 www.thaiair.com Bangkok-based airline connects twice daily between the Thai capital and HCM City and Hanoi. Multiple daily flights are also operated from both to Phnom Penh and Phuket.

Vietnam Airlines Hanoi: 94 Tran Quoc Toan Tel: 942 0848 HCM City: 116 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamair.com.vn The domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAO ATC Hotel 16B Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 666 Rustic little 4-room, family-run guesthouse in converted French administration building. Rooms are simple, with exposed rafters inside and balconies outside. Bungalow accommodation is also available.

Con Dao Resort

www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

Saigon Con Dao Resort 18-24 Ton Duc Thang Tel: 06 4830 155 www.saigoncondaoresort.com Opened in summer 2009, Saigon Tourist’s 82-room hotel has a restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and health club with sauna. Another 30 villas are available in the adjacent sister hotel, a renovated colonial-era administration building. Tours organized by hotel.

activities

DALAT Ana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com Luxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and 65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine.

Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Blue Moon Resort & Spa 4 Phan Boi Chau Tel: 06 3578 888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn An attractive 65-room, country-style resort with extensive gardens for strolling or al fresco dining, as well as restaurant serving local Dalat dishes. On-premise bike rental, fitness centre, sauna and indoor heated pool.

Mercure Dalat 7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777 www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Facilities include tennis court and sauna Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444

Phat Tire Ventures 73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422 www.phattireventures.com Runs guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands surrounding Dalat. Also operates mixed trip adventure packages and ropes course set among pine forest with 100+ metre Flying Fox zip line.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours 70 Phan Dinh Phung dalateasyriders@yahoo.com www.dalat-easyrider.com Ride pillion with English-, French- or German-speaking tour guides on motorbike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOI Intercontinental Westlake Hanoi 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888 www.intercontinental.com Located on the waterfront with contemporary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre including exercise classes and pool.

Hanoi Hilton Opera 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Housed in a colonial-style building that complements the adjacent Opera House, this luxury hotel features modern amenities, business services, outdoor pool and fitness centre. Vietnamese specialties are served at Ba Mien, and Chez Manon does Japanese and pan-Asian.

take flight with travel promotions around the region

Air France Through October 24, Air France is offering roundtrip tickets at USD $777 for flights to Europe departing from Hanoi and HCM City for travel dates that fall between November 1 and March 31, 2011. Destinations include Paris, Lyon, Marseille, Milan, Barcelona, London, Madrid and others. For more information, visit www.airfrance.com. vn, call 3829 0981 or email mail.hcm@ airfrance.fr.

La Sapinette, Dalat La Sapinette in Dalat is offering a promotional package of USD $94 on superior rooms, inclusive of VAT for its 40 percent off Christmas Getaway Package. The package includes a two-night stay, breakfast, Wi-Fi inside the room and free parking. Options are available at food and beverage outlets at 10 percent discount on advance.

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8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949 www.condaoresort.com Modern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. Onpremise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activities and tours.

Metropole Hanoi Together with tour operator Exotissimo, the Metropole Hanoi is launching Hanoi 1,000, a three-night, four-day package tour that includes accommodation at the Metropole and four guided tours and dining experiences.

The excursion begins in the 1000s with a visit to the Temple of Literature, founded in 1070, and concludes in the 1900s with a visit to Ba Dinh Square, where Ho Chi Minh declared the nation’s independence on September 2, 1945.

Mercure Dalat Mercure Dalat Hotel Du Parc offers a family package through December 20 for USD $99, including VAT and service charges. The package includes one-night accommodation in a suite or two standard connecting rooms, daily breakfast, one set dinner per stay

and gifts for children. This package is available for a family of two adults and two children under 16 years old for a minimum of two nights stay.

Hon Tam Resort, Nha Trang Through December, Hon Tam Resort in Nha Trang will offer guests a Deluxe Bungalow with full meals included. Call 3822 0632, email sales@hontamresort. vn or visit the representative office at level 1, 68 Le Loi, District 1, HCM City.

Rock Water Bay, Phan Thiet Through October 31, Rock Water Bay in Ke Ga, Phan Thiet is offering accommodation for 800,000 VND, as well as a 20-percent discount on spa services, 10-percent off meeting services and a 10-percent off promotional room rates from Monday through Thursday.

For more information, email sales@ rockwaterbay.vn

ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME. ALL THE EXPERTISE OF INTERCONTINENTAL.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences knows how to make you feel right at home. For one night or years, our fully furnished apartments are a great choice for those who understand that unique and enriching experiences should be part of every day. This 31-floor serviced residential tower provides an exclusive and innovative 'shop, live, work, entertain' lifestyle in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Our range of 1-bedroom to 3-bedroom apartments offer panoramic views of the city and a full range of luxury amenities and services, provided by the world renowned InterContinental brand.

For reservations please call +84 8 35208888 Corner Nguyen Du & Hai Ba Trung Streets, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam saigon@interconti.com intercontinental.com/saigon icasr.com

Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Located in the city centre with 306 comfortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern amenities. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar. Mercure Hanoi La Gare 94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 7766 www.accorhotels.com Situated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com Conveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers.

Sheraton Hotel Hanoi K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000 www.starwoodhotels.com “Resort within a city” boasts 299 spacious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com Located downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serving French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITY Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com One of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar. Duxton Hotel 63 Nguyen Hue D1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Located in downtown Saigon. Facilities include spa, beauty salon, Zanadu Health Club, gym, outdoor swimming and main restaurant, The Grill.

Equatorial 242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm On the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant

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and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999 saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon 305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/ banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

New World Hotel 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Located in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Luxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One. Renaissance Riverside 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com 349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/banquet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Luxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com/2077 One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Located in a main shopping hub. Four restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, casino, health club, shopping centre, supermarket, Chinese restaurant.

activities Saigon Scooter Centre 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh District Tel: 4848 7816 www.saigonscootercentre.com One-stop rental service with a wide selection of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips

Vietnam Vespa Adventures 169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu Lao Tel: 3920 3897 www.vietnamvespaadventures.com Headquaters located in Cafe Zoom.

Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANG Le Domaine de Tam Hai Resort Tel: 0510 3545105 www.domainedetamhai.com Occupying an island close to Hoi An, the resort features 12 villas, a private beach, and two restaurants serving French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Life Resort Hoi An 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Within walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam Hai Tel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.com Luxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8 private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Set on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activities Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Tel: 0918 230 653 www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Two-wheeled tours of the Central Highlands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

two-hour countryside trips to two-day cycling trips to Hue. Also does cultural and historical tours and car trips to My Son Holy Land.

Vietnam Sailing 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc Tel: 0918 255 521 www.vietnamsailing.com Foreign-operated company operates chartered coach or private tours to Cham Islands aboard a Corsair Sprint 750 Trimaran. One-day cruises or twoday excursions with beach camping by campfire are available.

HUE Celadon Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong Tel: 054 3936 666 www.celadonpalacehue.com Grand building inspired by Indochine Nobel House with panoramic views, international restaurant, lounge/bars, pool, ballroom and wedding planning.

La Residence 5 Le Loi Tel: 054 3837 475 www.la-residence-hue.com Former governor’s residence on the banks of the Perfume River is now home to a boutique resort where art deco meets Indochine. La Parfum restaurant serves local and international dishes.

Facilitiesa include spa, saltwater pool, tennis court and fleet of bicycles.

Mercure Hue Gerbera 38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688 www.mercure.com Overlooking the Perfume River, this centrally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar. Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Boutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANG

Mango Cruise info@mangorooms.com Chef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

Evason Hideaway at Ana Mandara Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 3728 222 www.sixsenses.com/hideawayanamandara An island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

Phat Tire Ventures 619 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0510 391 1700 www.phattireventures.com Offers rappelling and rock climbing at Marble Mountains, as well as walking and mountain biking excursions, from

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3522 222 www.sixsenses.com/evasonanamandara

USD 205 net/ Mandarin Suite/ Night.

Validity: until 30 November 2010

Rate is valid for Local Residents and

Please ask for Weekday Special Offers.

Beachside resort set in 26,000 square metres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa. Hon Tam Resort Representative Office Hon Tam (Silkworm Island), Vinh Nguyen, Nha Trang Sales office: Level 1, 68 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3822 0632 sales@hontamresort.vn A boutique eco-resort set on Hon Tam Island, located off Nha Trang.

Novotel Nha Trang 50 Tran Phu Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com Each of the 154 rooms has a terrace with seaviews in this modern hotel located in the city centre. The Square serves international cuisine in a dining room overlooking the bay.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infinity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@ Sheraton.

Sunrise Beach Resort 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 3820 999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Private beach resort equipped with gym, fitness centre, outdoor pool and water sports.

PHAN THIET

L’Anmien Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien Ward Tel: 062 3741 888 www.lanmienresort.com Beachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’Annam Resort and Spa Khu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 3682 222 www.princessannam.com Located on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two restaurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Open bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Shades Apartment Khu 1, Ham Tien Tel: 062 3743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Design-led boutique hotel that uses minimal materials and draws on natural tex-

tures to achieve a sense of timelessness.

Serviced apartments are sound-proof with blackout curtains. Pool and beachside veranda outside.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and Spa Mui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Located on a private beach, 60 cosy bungalows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activities C2Sky Kitesurfing Sunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241 www.c2skykitecenter.com Operates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors.

Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

Forester Spa & Mini Golf 65 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3743 447 www.forestrestaurant.com Terraced nine-hole miniature golf course with distinctly Vietnamese terrain: rice paddies, palm trees, stilt homes and a fish pond.

Jibes Beach Club 84-90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 062 3847 008 www.windsurf-vietnam.com IKO-licensed kitesurfing centre offers highly structured kitesurfing classes taught by experienced watersportsmen. Also offer windsurfing lessons and retails in watersports equipment (bodyboards, kayaks, surfboards, windsurfs).

Mui Ne Beach.net www.muinebeach.net Informative website run by local writer Adam Bray covering news, events, community/environmental issues and more in Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. Also issues safety advisories regarding crime and tour bus accidents.

Mui Ne Cooking School Sunshine Beach Resort, 84 Tuyen Quang Tel: 062 383 0755 Al fresco classes begin with a trip to Rang Market and focus on the provincial cuisine of Binh Thuan, like banh xeo (crepes with beef or seafood) and goi hai san (seafood salad).

Surfpoint 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu www.surfpoint-vietnam.com Offers private and group kiteboarding courses and equipment rental (from $4050/hr). Also runs group and private surfing lessons, as well as kayaking trips to Song Quao Lake.

WindChimes School Saigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieu

www.kiteboarding-vietnam.com Surf school situated on 235m of beach offers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught

by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOC Freedomland Ong Long Beach Tel: 077 3994 891 freedomlandphuquoc.com Secluded lodging in six different bungalow types built from natural materials sourced from the island. Private or shared bathrooms, no air-conditioning or hot water.

Boat trips and scooter tours.

La Veranda Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach Tel: 077 3982 888 www.laverandaresort.com Set amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango Bay Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0903 382 207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com Low-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPA Victoria Sapa Resort Sapa District, Lao Cai Province Tel: 020 0871 522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Mountain chalet perched over the village wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace.

Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVING Note: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional Association of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unaccredited dive centres in Vietnam.

Rainbow Divers 55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving tours and career/instructor development offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-theart dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving

62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang 058 826 528 www.divenhatrang.com PADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAU Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa Ho Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525 www.hotramresort.com Located about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

The Imperial Hotel 159-163 Thuy Van Tel: 06 4362 8888 www.imperialhotelvietnam.com Victorian-style hotel with 152 rooms, outdoor pool, shopping mall and fully serviced gym.

TRAVEL AGENTS Buffalo Tours Suite 601, Satra House, 58 Dong Khoi D1 Tel: 3827 9170 www.buffalotours.com Tailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

Exotissimo HCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1 Tel: 3827 2911 infosgn@exotissimo.com SD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.com HANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150 infohanoi@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com French-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia. iViVu www.ivivu.com Offering the traditional services of a travel agent – airline tickets, tours, packages and hotels - as well as tips and up-to-date travel news on Vietnam.

Terraverde 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3948 4754/56 info@terraverdetravel.com www.terraverdetravel.com German-owned travel agency specializing in tailor-made tours combining nature experiences; site visits; cultural encounters; biking, boating and trekking expeditions.

Mixes cultural experience with light adventure tourism.

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE Beachside Nha Trang Asian & Western Cuisine Swimming Pool & Private Beach www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini. 

listings

Buddha Bar 7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080 An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled environment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise. 

food & drink

Cafe Latin 17 Dong Du, D1 In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

BAR RESTAURANTS Ala Mezon 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447 www.alamezon.vn Colourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass.

Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop.

Open 5 pm to late.

Alibi 11 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 3240 Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bread & Butter 40/26 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3836 8452 Lunch menu of American classics (California burritos, po boy sandwiches), Brit pub dinner (bangers & mash, fish & chips) and Sunday evening roast.

Serves Huda Beer from Hue. Closed 2:30 pm to 5 pm and Mondays.

Bernie's Bar & Grill 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 2684 Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house

feast

Corso Steakhouse & Bar Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Australia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

K Cafe 28 Do Quang Dau, D1 Tel: 3913 4673 www.kcafevietnam.com This down-to-earth bistro-bar is a haven for French-speaking emigrés looking for an alternative in the backpackers’ area.

Prop up the bar with a beer or Ricard, or tuck into the tasty Gallic fare. Good atmosphere for conversation.  La Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com This charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.

Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta comprising three plates. Open late daily.

Le Pub 175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.org One of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite

Mogambos 50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311 This restaurant has been around since the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburgers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.  O’Brien’s 74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198 A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas. Pasha Bar & Restaurant 25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77 www.pasha.com.vn Turkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France.

Long happy hour half price by glass.

Various shisha flavours.

Peaches: The Curry Pub Sky Garden 2, S57-1, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0999 Serves up dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, China, Japan, Singapore and Indonesia with a focus on healthy preparation and fresh produce. Phatty’s 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 0705 www.phattysbar.com Jaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing 110 Pasteur, D1 www.qing.com.vn Sophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/ South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s Irish House 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic breakfast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn This friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.  The Tavern R2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900 Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.  Vasco’s Bar 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 2888 Chic bar decked in deep reds that gets packed to capacity on weekends. Open Monday to Saturday with live music on Fridays. Food menu by chef with over 10 years experience at La Camargue.

Also does excellent pizza.  ZanZBar 41 Dong Du, D1 Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and dinner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

broaden your palate with promotions around town

Nineteen From October 4 to 17 Restaurant Nineteen’s buffet specializes in shellfish.

Special preparations include steamed sea cockles served with Laksa leaves, peanuts and soy fish sauce; soft shell crab fried in butter and served tempura style with tamarind sauce; and oysters oven-baked with creamy cheese sauce.

Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant The Norfolk Mansion’s Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant is offering a special Chinese herbal food promotion until October 15. The dishes, including sautéed scallops with fresh ginseng, oven-baked tiger prawns with dang gui and liquorice and poached spinach with lily bud and wolfberry all contain ingredients that contribute to health and well-being. Call 3823 2221, email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn or visit www.shangpalace.com.vn.

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watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are offered daily.

Villa FB District 1 restaurant VillaFB’s lunch deal at USD 10++ per pax with non-alcoholic drink features dishes with a strong emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients, including caramelized prawns, stir-fry beef with thien ly flowers and seafood spring rolls. Dessert selections includesfresh fruit, cakes and tropical ice cream.

Reflections The Caravelle’s Reflections serves a dessert menu of fresh flambéed fruits and ice cream during its Sweet Flambé & Champagne Evenings promotion.

The menu includes banana flambé with Grand Marnier served with vanilla Mascarpone and homemade coconut sherbet and stewed apple delight with Remy Martin XO Cognac served with crushed hazelnuts and Granny Smith apple sorbet.

Caravelle Lobby Lounge The Caravelle pairs chocolate-dipped strawberries and Mumm Champagne during its Champagne and Chocolate Truffle promotion, running from October 4 to 17 at its ground-level Lobby Lounge.

imbibe

street gourmet

Banh Bot Loc Championing Chile

By Beth Young Chile is the world’s newest winemaking hotspot. According to Michael Kloster, sales and marketing manager at wine stockist Vine Group, the nation’s rich virgin soil, large and inexpensive labour force (which keeps prices relatively low) and across-the-board environmental conscience has contributed to its success.

What’s more, Kloster says, Chilean vino is “true to type” and as such, the drinker knows what to expect. “A cabernet tastes like a cabernet, a chardonnay tastes like a chardonnay,” he says. The same philosophy applies to food matching. “Again, pretty straight up. If you enjoy a steak with cabernet, great!

Spring rolls with a chardonnay? Go for it. They’re easy pairings.”

While there may be no surprises, that’s not to say Chilean vino is unremarkable.

Rather—for the most part— they are “beginner” drops: easy to drink, painless to pair and perfect stepping stones to more complex European wines. This is because most Chilean wineries tier their products to match their clientele’s needs and expertise, pricing the wine to match.

Both Cono Sur and Yali, the Chilean labels Vine Group stock, do just this, producing entry, intermediate and advanced-level wines that allow novices to experiment and gradually challenge their palates. It’s a technique that

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Kloster believes works well in Vietnam, and is especially appealing to local consumers.

“It plays into this whole idea of upward mobility,” he explains.

“I have this motorbike now, but I want that one. It’s kind of the same [attitude] with these wines.”

Cono Sur and Yali’s commitment to protecting the environment has lent to their appeal, too. Cono Sur—a slang term that means the Southern Cone in Spanish—goes to great lengths to ensure their production is as eco-friendly as possible. Workers ride bicycles through the vineyard and use pedal power to commute to work. Tractors are used as little as possible and rather than spraying chemicals, geese are employed to weed.

Commendable as Cono Sur’s efforts are, Kloster points out that their access to large tracts of untouched land makes the job that much easier. “They don’t have to deal with 1,000 years of tilling and God knows what. They’re really starting from scratch.”

Lower average wages in South America also allow winemakers to hire more manpower. Many Chilean wines are almost entirely handmade, minus the steep price tag that is generally attached to products primarily handled by humans. Because of their unerring quality, accessibility and affordability, Kloster says it’s well worth sampling some of Chile’s best.

Banh bot loc is a dish commonly eaten in Hue and becoming popular in the south, too. Banh bot loc are smooth, transparent cakes made from tapioca flour and filled with sautéed baby shrimp and fatty pork. The treat is then wrapped in fresh banana leaves and steamed.

The best part about eating this greasy delight is unwrap-

CAFES Annam Cafe 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Cosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi overlooking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4090 70 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 8100 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990 www.bobbybrewers.com This is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.  Bull’s Cafe 113C Bui Vien Street, D1 Tel: 3836 1925 www.bullcafe.com.vn MotoGP-themed lounge serving up coffee, smoothies and cafe house special, fruit cocktail.

Cafe Terrace Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5 Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells freshroasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea. 

ping the fragrant parcel and allowing the scent to unfold.

Banh bot loc is best when dipped in a spicy, diluted fish sauce (mam ot loang). If you’ve tried and liked other Hue specialties like banh nam and banh beo, this should be next on your to-do list. Goes for about 20,000 VND per plate.

Stephy Thai.

Illy Café 111A Pasteur, D1 Tel: 2220 2388 Fax: 2220 2389 Grand View Shop SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3292 Fax: 5412 3293 An Italian-style coffee bar that serves Illy—a world-renowned espresso blend.

Makes classic coffees like the cappuccino as well as innovative alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. Also serve light Italian cuisine and desserts.

Jubarcalypse 35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930 Jubarcalypse has an interesting underground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

Loaves and Fishes 5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3547 0577 Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo 88 Dong Khoi, D1 www.sheratonsaigon.com A top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and comfortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Nirvana 14Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3910 0745 Pleasant retro-styled cafe with outdoor water features and welcome modern touches like free Wi-Fi. Live music at night.

Paris Deli 35 Dong Khoi, D1

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6127 Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179 Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reasonable prices.

Une Journee A Paris 234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 7723 15B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2 Tel: 0128 608 9551 A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne. Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe 58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142 212 A2 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 9307 Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream.

Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground. Catering available.

Zenta 41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3 A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport departure lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESE Chop Chop Chinese Delivery Tel: 3826 9135 SMS: 09 3836 3030 www.chopchopvietnam.com American-style Chinese delivery service brings classics like General Tso's chicken, moo shu pork and beef with broccoli to your door. Open seven days, 11 am to 10 pm.  Dragon Court 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3827 2566 Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here.

Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty Restaurant New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888 Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restaurant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND. Huy Long Vien 99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799 www.huylongvien.com A magnificent Chinese restaurant with a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works.

Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND. Kabin Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featuring authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

Li Bai Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828

Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00.

Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND. Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555 Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese Restaurant Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688 Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hanging lanterns and a sparkling mineral gallery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials.

Ocean Palace 2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822 Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace Restaurant Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221 www.shangpalace.com.vn An upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere.

The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regularly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao Li Restaurant Grand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999 Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky 261B Dao Duy Tu, D10 Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu Chu InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items.

Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURS Bo Gia (The Godfather) 29 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selection of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

Fanny Ice Cream 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1

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Tel: 3821 1633 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.fanny.com.vn Tranquil open-terraced heaven for icecream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month. 

recipes

Ministry of Food 30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

Crabs with Chilli and Sour Plum Sauce serves 2– 4 | prep time: 30 minutes

With the arsenal of sauces you can find in a typical Asian kitchen, this ‘out-of-this-world’ recipe will make you the master chef of your family!

6 flower crabs (you can also use mud crabs) 5 cloves garlic, crushed 7 bird’s eye chillies (cili padi), chopped 4 tbs cooking oil 6 stalks dried chillies 1 onion, sliced For frying: 1 cup flour, 1 tsp white pepper, a pinch of salt Tasty three sauce: This sauce uses three of everything so it’s easy to make and remember.

3 tbs plum sauce 3 tbs sweet Thai chilli sauce 3 tbs tomato ketchup 3 tbs sweet soy sauce 3 sour plums ONE Dip crabs in flour, pepper and salt mix and fry for 2 mins each.

TWO In a hot wok, toss in bird’s eye chillies, onions, garlic and dried chillies.

After a minute, add in all the sauce ingredients. When everything is bubbling merrily, add in crabs and mix evenly with sauce.

SERVE WITH Rice or Mantou buns.

TIPS For crisp and non-oily buns: Buns should be at room temperature.

Without defrosting it first, the icy water in the buns will render it soggy.

Oil must be really, really hot in order to shock the buns for crispy skin.

Fry 2 mins on one side and 1 min on the other. To ensure oil is ready, throw in a pinch of flour. When it sizzles, it’s hot enough.

Have enough oil so that the bottom of the buns do not touch the pan.

DO NOT press the buns when cooking with a spatula. This will break the skin and oil will go into the buns making it oily.

For more information contact Elizabeth Png-Reade at elizabeth.png-reade@electrolux.com

Recipes provided by

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New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 4th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binh www.newzealandnatural.com Serves flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysenberry dream by the scoop.

Yogen Fruz 118 Pasteur, D1 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Panorama Apartments, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7 www.yogenfruz.com Frozen yoghurt parlour is decked in mod-meets-IKEA decor and serves no-fat, and low-fat fro-yo blended with fresh fruits, as well as soft serve and smoothies.

FRENCH Annamite French Restaurant 21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3 Tel: 6277 8332 annamite-restaurant.com The new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmosphere with a classic touch .

French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saffron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

Au Manoir de Khai 251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394 This top-end contemporary French restaurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

Jardin Delice 4 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4722 Located in a beautiful French villa with a swimming pool and spa open to diners, Jardin Delice specializes in high-end French cuisine. Hip setting provides a mish-mash of colourful glass plates, chairs and massive paintings.

La Bordeaux F7-F8, D2 Road, P25, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 9831 www.restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn French fine dining in an elegant, intimate loft space with dark wood and linendraped tables. Expect simple, classic dishes prepared to perfection. Rotating seasonal menu.

La Brasserie 61 Hung Gia 2, Phu My Hung, D7

Tel: 5410 4317 www.labrasserie-hcmc.com Contemporary French restaurant and wine bar with outdoor seating and wine cellar stocked with more than 650 wines. Features classic French fare like sliced raw beef Carpaccio with Parmesan cheese and grilled beef fillet served with French fries and vegetable gratin.

La Camargue 191 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3520 4888 Boasts a reputation for excellence in fine dining for more than 10 years.

Modern French and Italian cuisine is served in a colonial-style alfresco dining space. An extensive wine list allows diners to choose the perfect pairing.

La Fourchette 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143 Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

La Nicoise 42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613 Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

Le Jardin 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465 This delightful restaurant in a picturesque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND. L’en Tête 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091 This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare representing an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

Olivier Restaurant Level 2, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555 Imaginative French cuisine cooked up in a blend of classic and contemporary. Executive Chef Martin Becquart prepares a solid but creative selection of French favourites with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes.

Sesame 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 0989 765 472 A self-styled hospitality school for disadvantaged children, Sesame gives practical experience to its students through its operational restaurant. Serving a mixture of French and Vietnamese cuisine.

Ty Coz 178/4 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3822 2457 Homely and attractive venue specializes in classic French cuisine. Does excellent three-course business set meals for and sells carefully selected seafood.

INDIAN Ashoka 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 Tel: 744 4144 S9-1 lo R13 - KP Hung Vuong 2, D7 Tel: 5410 1989 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular and enduring Indian restaurants with a reputation for good food and service at a reasonable price.

Ganesh 15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017 Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.  Mumtaz 226 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3837 1767 Reasonably priced north and south Indian fare in a clean, light and spacious setting. Vegetarian curries go for around 30,000 VND while meat dishes cost between 45,000 VND and 55,000 VND each. Excellent kebabs.  Saigon Indian 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671 Popular venue with an enormous menu.

Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.  Tandoor 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Part of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetarian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events. 

INTERNATIONAL Al Fresco’s 21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 8427 27 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317 D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093 400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840 www.alfrescosgroup.com Theme restaurant boasting a range of

Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Australian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.  Amigo Grill 55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 0437 Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating.

Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

Au Lac Do Brazil 238 Pasteur, D3 Tel: 3820 7157 36/19-21 Pham Van Nghi-Bac, D7 Tel: 5410 5566 www.aulacdobrazil.com A Brazilian barbecue restaurant that takes meat seriously. The mixed grills and rodizio are fantastic and served in generous portions. No meat-eater should miss the churrasco: 12 cuts of meat carved at your table, plus unlimited salad.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats.

Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favourite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.  Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055 628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837 Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of Western and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also

features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.  BoatHouse 40 Lily Road, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790 Riverside restaurant with umbrellashaded tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room.

Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoatHouse Cafe 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9182 BoatHouse’s sister eatery for takeaway and delivery service. Offers coffee, breakfast sandwiches, juices, smoothies, pre-packaged salads, sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips.  Byblos Restaurant & Shisha Lounge 11 Ngo Duc Khe, D1 Tel: 3825 7781 www.byblos.com.vn Downtown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.  Cafe Evita 230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3512 3888 Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.  Casablanca 58/9 Thanh Thai, D10 Tel: 3862 8859

Moroccan cuisine from merguez to pastilla served in an intimate, attractive dining room. Owner/chef trained at Morocco's finest hotels and caters to guests' every need. Reservations required.

Cepage Lancaster Building 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8321, 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz One of the city’s premier venues, Cepage delivers an up-market bar, wine lounge and restaurant in one sleek package. Sells several wines by the glass with several hundred bottles to choose from. Mixes some of the city’s best cocktails.

Cham Charm 3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung Tel: 5410 9999 The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

The Deck 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632 Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The Elbow Room 52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327 elbowroom52@yahoo.com American-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily

We are pleased to introduce the taste of ILLY caffe. Finally the best Italian coffee comes to Vietnam.

Enjoy!

111A Pasteur, D.1, HCMC Tel: (08) 22 202 388 Fax: (08) 22 202 389 Grand View, Shop SA1-1, SB2-1 Nguyen Duc Canh Blvd, D.7, HCMC. Tel: (08) 54 123 292 Fax: (08) 54 123 293

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7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt 34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623 Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with specialities such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Gia Dining Room 5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 9399 www.giadiningroom.com Serves a mid-range slate of mainly grilled Western mains, single-entree Asian dishes and wide range of soups, salads, appetisers. Three intimate dining spaces pair modern design with Indochina-era sophistication. Extensive list of Old and New World wines.

Good Eats NTFQ2, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Easteran and Western dishes are low in saturated fat and made from all-natural ingredients. Organic vegetables, herbs and spices accompany meals. Even the French fries are healthy.  Halal@Saigon 31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823 www.halalsaigon.com Serving up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hard Rock Cafe InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.hardrockcafe.vn Popular theme restaurant/live music venue serves large portions of pub fare including salads, fajitas and burgers.

Rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia adorns the walls in classic Hard Rock-style and the rock shop sells themed shot glasses, T-shirts and jewellery.  Hideaway Cafe 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4222 www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com Stylishly decorated and relaxing restaurant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.  Jaspa’s 33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926 www.alfrescosgroup.com Unpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts monthly Spam Cham networking event. 

Pasha Page 51 Photo by Fred Wissink

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Juice 49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900 Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.  Juice Bar 86 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 0631 or 3915 3603 www.juicebar.vn Serves healthy smoothies made with yoghurt, fresh fruit and vegetable juices and wholesome sandwiches. Also sells vitamins and supplements.

Kita Coffee House 39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300 Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sandwiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop dining. Also in Vincom Center.  Market 39 InterContinental Asiana Saigon Ground Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant 23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713 Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australianstyle brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches.

Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.  New York Dessert Cafe (nydc) Restaurant and Cafe NOWZONE 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Metropolitan 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Parkson Flemington 184 Le Dai Hanh, D11 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Crescent. Phu My Hung, 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 New York themed menu offering a wide selection of Western dishes and desserts, including a variety of cheesecakes.

New York Steakhouse & Winery 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373 New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn

street gourmet

Banh Gio Banh gio is a pyramidshaped dumpling neatly encased in green banana leaves, steamed and eaten with nuoc mam (fish sauce).

Inside, banh gio are stuffed with a combination of rice flour, minced meat, shallots and nam huong (field mushrooms). Once unwrapped and bitten into, the filling is sweet, fragrant, smooth and

Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

Orientica Hotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Top-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the downtown scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024 This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

Pinocchio Restaurant Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9199 Email: info@pinocchio.vn A quiet place in the Vincom Center to indulge in pizza, pasta, salad and international and Vietnamese mains for a reasonable price.

The Refinery 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509 Authentic bistro with cane furniture outside, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

Reflections Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999

buttery—irresistible! There is even a Vietnamese saying that states, “Not everybody eats banh gio, but those who do will become addicted.” It’s hard to stop at one, and though banh gio is most common at breakfast it’s a great nighttime treat, as well. Each dumpling costs about 5,000 VND. Stephy Thai.

Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside Cafe Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Best in Italian Cuisine.

Extensive Wine Collection.

Sandals 93 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Casual dining in evocative 3-floor space with blonde wood accents and cosy seating throughout. Kitchen turns out elegant and inspired fare at surprising value for money: meal-sized salads; filling burgers, wraps and sandwiches.

Signature Restaurant Level 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com Rustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabouleh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas. 

79 Hai Ba Trung D1 Te l : 0 8 - 3 8 2 3 8 9 9 8 w w w. p o m o d o r o - v i e t n a m . c o m

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Square One Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359 Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

Texas BarBQ 15/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The flavour and feel of the Wild Wild West is evoked by both the food and décor at this perennially popular eatery.

Quarter rack ribs are a mainstay. .  VillaFB 79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 www.villafb.com Refurbished villa with a spacious design-led indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822 Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damascan chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com Inspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIAN Basilico InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du and Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts.

Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam.

Offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

where are you going tonight?

Da Vinci’s Pizza 001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4 Tel: 3943 4982 Wide variety of brick oven pizza, calzones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches.

Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.  Good Morning Vietnam 197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894 Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country.

Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines. 

41 Dong Du, D1, Tel 3822 7375

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La Hostaria 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080 Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excellent pizza.  Opera Ground floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam

Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendalasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181 One of the city’s oldest Western restaurants, Pendalaso serves a wide range if Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.  Pepperoni’s 111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s.

Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.  Pomodoro 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788 Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleasant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of toppings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.  Scoozi 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795 Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven.

The delicious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie. 

JAPANESE Dragon Hot Pot 122-124 Ho Tung Mao, D1 Tel: 3915 1001 info@dragonhotpot.vn Japanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

K Cafe 74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355 Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls.

Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

Kuru Kuru Sushi 129 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3824 3566 Sushi restaurant with colour-coded menu and items served from a rotating conveyor belt. Helpful place mats in both English and Vietnamese break down prices and explain how to choose your food. Very affordable prices.

MOF – Japanese Sweets & Coffee Level B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1 Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

Nishimura Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi

from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promotions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street.

Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Okinawa Yamaneko 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko-vn.com Part restaurant, part Japanese pub serving up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

Thai Village Sharksfin Restaurant 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3825 6706 Restaurant serving authentic ThaiTheochew cuisine including their specialty: whole braised shark’s fin in clay pot.

Sakae Sushi Nowzone @ Royal Centre, Level 4 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Tel: 3504 0054 Healthy, affordable and quick service kaiten (conveyor belt) sushi makes for a fun dining experience. Extensive menu also includes beef, chicken and vegetarian options.

The Sushi Bar 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8042 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618 This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at reasonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request. Popular with expats and locals alike.  Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782 Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes.

The yakitori station grills up fantastic steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN 25 Si 8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921 Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a private, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun Gook R4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My Hung Tel: 6296 9057 Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo 6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3824 3253 Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Lac Thai 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506 An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.  Little Manila S2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5410 0812

The Red Dot 21 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 5123 Aptly titled, this Singaporean restaurant serves decent chicken rice, char kway teow, chili crab, and a handful of Malaysian specialties.  Sawasdee Saigon 102 - 104 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3925 7777 Authentic Thai cuisine in a warm, friendly atmosphere.  Satay House 35 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3822 1727 Bright and rustic, this Malaysian-run place specializes in Halal food. Chicken and asam fish curries are must-tries. Its famous satays are equally delicious.  Thai Express 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338 www.thaiexpress.com.vn Modern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIAN An Lac Chay 175/4 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Tel: 3837 0760 Apropos of the backpacker district, this little restaurant offers no frills and a vast menu. Though meat dishes are available, it specializes in vegetarian Vietnamese and quirky “backpacker favourites.”  Hoa Dang 38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473 Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Tib Chay 11 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 Tel: 3843 6460 Intimate spot with a big menu of Vietnamese vegetarian appetisers, salads, soups, rice/noodle mains and desserts Viet Chay 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862 Upscale vegetarian restaurant specializes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESE Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Hung, D3 Tel: 3930 5674 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3915 3343 Two HCM City ouposts of the legendary Hanoi original serve only one dish: the eponymous and delicious cha ca la vong, fish pan-fried at the table with turmeric and dill and served with cold noodles and peanuts.

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Com Nieu 19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288 The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shatteredcrockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676 This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

Hoi An 11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7694 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, a bamboo-clad walled courtyard and a menu spanning the three main regions of Vietnam. Specialities include abalone soup and a raw fish salad. Four VIP rooms.

Lam Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 Tel: 3862 2569 Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destination for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant 11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783 Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam.

Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Marina 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu tel: 3930 2379 www.ngocsuong.com.vn Swish seafood restaurant with al fresco and indoor seating and a vast menu of up-market Vietnamese dishes. Features 10 set menus at varying price scales.

Nam Phan 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636 Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen. Nghi Xuan 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699 Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Papaya 68 Pham Viet Cham, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 www.chi-nghia.com Hanoian classics mingle with new interpretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Ngon Restaurant 160 Pasteur, D1 The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has

78 asialife HCMC

become a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Quan Nuong 3T Barbecue 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 A favourite with both locals and expats, this rooftop restaurant above the Temple Club offers an extensive menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Try the beef wrapped around tasty melting cheese or deliciously fresh skewered prawns.

Son Ha Garden 147A Hai Ba Trung, D1 Spacious and airy restaurant sculpted from bamboo with an open kitchen.

Serves a range of affordable local favourites family style, as well as Vietnamese desserts including homemade yoghurt.

Temple Club 29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3829 9244 This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Tib 187 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 7242 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5413 6868 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Popular up-market dining spot serving Hue cuisine in an attactive dining room that draws on traditional architecture.

Call for reservations.

Tib Express 162 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3822 5038 Serves a large selection of Tib’s Huefood menu in a more casual dining rooom and at significantly lower prices.

Specializes in bun bo Hue.  Wrap & Roll 62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose prewrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork. 

nightlife BARS & LOUNGES See bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

Acoustic Bar 6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Tel: 3930 2239 A Volkswagen Bug tries to scale the wall outside this well-priced music venue popular with college-age Vietnamese and the occasional expat.

Amber Room 59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686 info@theamberoom.com A true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Boston Sports Bar 28/2 - 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 6656 6338/6656 6328 Sports bar featuring North American food. Satellite TV, free pool and darts.

Catering services and private room available for parties. Open 24 hours.  Ciao Lounge

2nd Floor, 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Trendy and attractive lounge bar with a mixture of retro and modern decor and a pleasant atmosphere to boot. A great escape from central Saigon but quite touristy.

Cranberry Café & Pub 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3914 0991 Upmarket,quiet lounge great for private parties. Brickwork and cranberry-red chairs speak to the bar’s name, with a cocktail range and Tigers in blissfully frosted mugs.

Level 23 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge.

Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The Library InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

M52 Bar 52 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 6726 Sparsely-appointed venue with reasonably priced drinks noted for packing a punch. Owners Annie and Ms. Van are never too busy to check on their patrons, and the busy bartenders are quick with a smile.

Number Five Bar 44 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 6300 Number Five Bar is older than it looks, having formerly been located at 5 Ly Tu Trong. The bar attracts a regular clientele of established expats.

Park Lounge Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musicians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple Jade InterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099 Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

Q Bar Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, D1 With low ceilings, intimate cubbyholes, colonial arches, gold paint, ultraviolet lighting and clubhouse beats, this is a bar that has a reputation for being a place to be seen. Great outdoor terrace and late-night indoor opening.

QD Bar & Lounge 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Tel: 3821 5338 Sophisticated lounge with New and Old World wines served by the bottle or glass, modern decor and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Ton That Thiep.

Saigon Saigon Bar 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Popular bar usually packed out with tourists and business travellers searching for some delicious cocktails and a great view of the city skyline. Cuban band Warapo plays every night except Monday from 8.30 pm until late.

Samsara Club 131 Dong Khoi, D1 A laid-back cosmopolitan drinking and dance venue with comfy lounge chairs around low-lying tables and an island bar bedecked in extravagant whitefeather decorations. Pink neon gives the joint a contemporary edge.

T&R Tavern 57 Do Quang Dau, D1 Classic expat dive bar with pool table, darts and comfortable yet simple decor.

Daily happy hour and sportsfans can catch games on the big screen.

Vibe Billiards & Lounge 102 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3925 2599 Sleek bi-level lounge with Scandinavian design, Bansky-esque murals and top-notch billiards and snooker tables, paid for by the hour. Hosts league play, half-price Mondays, ladies’ nights and DJ events.

Voodoo Lounge 92 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Voodoo paintings adorn the white walls at this small, attractive bar south of Sunwah Tower. A daily happy hour, plenty of stool space and a pair of dartboards make it a good place to grab a drink.

Yoko 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3 Tel: 3825 1901 Compact and popular joint with nightly live music boasts a refreshingly eclectic range of Western styles, with most songs sung in English.

BREWHOUSES Alderbrau 98 Nguyen Du, D1 Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer 107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619 www.biatuoitiepvn.com Attractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are available, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

Hoa Vien 28bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn Expansive beer hall serves up pilsner beer crafted from malt, hops and yeast from the Czech Republic. There’s also a large food menu and imported Pilsner Urquell.

Lion Brewery 11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514 Microbrewery featuring traditional German brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBS Fuse Bar 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND. Lush 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496 A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music

OPEN 24/7

and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

Velvet Bar 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 Hip-hop and Viet trance club with both bottle service and bottle beer that isn’t prohibitively expensive. Circular center bar is ringed with tables, and VIP areas and sofa seating line the walls.

Where the game’s always on!

28/4 Bui Vien Str. Pham Ngu Lao Ward, Dist 1.

Phone: (08) 665 663 38 - (08) 665 663 28

at home BAKERIES Crumbs 54 Truong Dinh, D1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn info@crumbs.com.vn Eat-in bakery offering a wide range of muffins, whole-grain breads and pastries. Many of the breads are dairy-free, baked fresh daily with unbleached white flower, no added sugar.

Harvest Baking 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com This authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for delivery.

Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more.

Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat A Chou 65 Hai Ba Trung, D1 188 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 25 Thao Dien, D2 The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Schneider’s Finest 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 1998 www.schneiders-finest.com Traditional German bakery bakes 45 different kinds of breads, rolls and baguettes and a wide range of danishes, pastries and cakes. Catering available.

Sesame Bakery 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premise of the Hospitality School of HCMC, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies at very competitive prices. Special order & delivery available.

Tous Les Jours

80 asialife HCMC

180 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker 17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 8799 39 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6296 0066 Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to baguettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERING Au Parc Catering Services 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner parties, wine tastings and corporate events.

For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388 Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custommade quotation e-mail SaigonGG@ gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3816 2901 sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Catering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key barbeques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com From the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSES Caravelle Hotel Cooking Classes Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef. Costs USD $45++ each for a minimum 10 people.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc The Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1

Tel: 3825 8485 i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com contact@saigoncookingclass.com Cooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Students make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted

by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request. Cost is $45. Market visit with the chef on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3512 1491 Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

GROCERIES

HO TRAM HIDEAWAY Package Include: Accommodation at Garden View One dinner for two at Gecko restaurant One time of 60 minutes body treatment for 2 at Aurora Spa Welcome drink and cool towel upon arrival Complimentary usage of Tennis Court, kayaking, fishing Complimentary usage and unlimited access to gym

Terms & Conditions: Minimum of two nights stay Promotion is exclude of public holidays Additional charge of US$15/room/night on Friday & Saturday Valid until 31st Oct, 2010

Annam Gourmet Market 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64 www.annam-gourmet.com Boutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products.

Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor. Cosy café serves coffee, drinks and sandwiches.

Au Parc 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772 A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also showcase a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Bellany Gelato & Sorbet Tel: 0122 774 3132 New Italian gelato and sorbet brand made entirely from local fresh fruit and adapted to contain minimal fat and sugar. Delivers to Thao Dien, An Phu residents from 4 pm to 9 pm in just 30 minutes. 125 ml, 450 ml and 2.8 litre packages are available and there are 15 flavours to choose from.

Classic Fine Foods 100 Xuan Thuy, D2, Tel: 3744 2717 www.classicfinefoods.com Luxury food primarily imports for wholesale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Future Sense 284/9 Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 6099 Ice cream home delivery service featuring banana-on a stick, Ola premium ice cream and frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice cream, all produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, D2 Tel: 6281 9830 Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes.

Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Grand-Place Chocolate 1A Me Linh Square, Room C4, D1 Tel: 3823 4068 www.grandplacechocolate.com delivery@grandplacechocolate.com Belgian chocolate manufacturer offering high quality chocolate for professionals and chocolate lovers. Chocolate available in 1kg blocks or 2.5kg buttons.

Free delivery.

Kim Hai Butchery 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376 Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb,

veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

Le Cochon D’Or 32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856 French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

Metro An Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677 www.metro.com.vn Warehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik 11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841 arlene@organikvn.com www.organikvn.com Online grocer based out of Dalat selling a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu. Phuong Ha 58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318 A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported packaged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s 29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526 Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7 Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2 Popular expat market with a huge walkin fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINE Bacchus Corner 158D Pasteur, D1 Reliable wine and liquor store owned

by Tan Khoa Wines with a good range of spirits, whiskies, wines and more all at decent prices. English-speaking staff can help with selections.

Connoisseur 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 224 6324 A decent range of wines from both old and new world vineyards lines the walls in this intimate store. Monthly offers on new arrivals are often a good deal. The staff are helpful, but little English.

Red Apron 22 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3823 0021 Large wine and spirits wholesaler, with 90,000 bottles stored in its five locations around the country. Sells wine from all around the world, particularly France, Chile, Italy and Australia. Exclusive distributor of such fine brands as Taittinger Champagne.

Tapas Wine 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com Home delivery service that specializes in Spanish wines. Check out the website for a full catalog of their wines, as well as reviews by brand.

The Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525 www.warehouse-asia.com One of the city’s premier wine distributors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories. Provides advice and delivery service.

listings

culture CLASSES AngelsBrush by Vin Tel: 0983377710 Shyevin@mac.com Oil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Creative Writing Classes Tel: 090 448 2957 kate_orson@hotmail.com Writer Kate Orson teaches creative writing courses for fiction, non-fiction and travel writing. Beginners and experienced writers are welcome.

Helene Kling Painting 513 An Binh, Street 12, D2 helene_kling@yahoo.com French painter Helene holds classes in oil painting at her beautiful river-side home on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday’s between 8 am and 1 pm for adults and Monday and Friday afternoons between 3 pm and 6 pm for children.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn monotype, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMAS Bobby Brewer’s Movie Lounge 45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 2220 86 Pham Ngoc Thach info@bobbybrewers.com Popular top-floor home cinema showing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Tel: 3822 7897 LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Tel: 3775 2520 www.lottecinemavn.com Modern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas. me phim HCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discussions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

Megastar Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388 CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 www.megastarmedia.net State-of-the-art cinema complex screening the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in original language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blah OUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.com Operates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695 bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vn www.bluespacegallery.com Busy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery 31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498 Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery showcases the private art collection of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610 240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425 Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com The city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/ international contemporary artists, publishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Future Shorts futureshortsvietnam@gmail.com www.futureshorts.com/vn Vietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorporate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441 btmthcm@hotmail.com Institution housing contemporary/traditional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

Galaxy Cinema 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688 www.galaxycine.vn Large, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

San Art Independent Artist Space 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 hoa@san-art.org www.san-art.org Artist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451 French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

Lotte Cinema Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1

TuDo Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com Hosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

To find us, walk through the arch at 74 Hai Ba Trung and discover our beautiful secluded courtyard.

Telephone 3823 0509 Open 7 Days

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sports & leisure Sport Street Huyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Services include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Tips to Achieve Your Weight Loss Goals

By Nutrifort’s Nicole Hankins Once you have made the decision to lose weight and start exercising, the challenge is to change your eating habits and maintain nutrition for the long run. This is not a short-term goal; it involves a complete lifestyle overhaul. Below are some tips to help you get started: 1. Don’t skip breakfast.

Also, eat every three to four hours. Your last meal should be three hours before bedtime, too. If you do nothing else but this, the weight will fall off within the first three months. You'll also have the energy to last through the day.

12 pounds per year.

5. Limit unhealthy snacks.

Cut down on cookies, potato chips and cereal bars containing enriched flours (other than 100 percent whole grain or whole wheat). Note: most prepackaged foods contain trans fat, which includes partially hydrogenated fats and vegetable oil blends that give them a longer shelf life.

6. Keep healthy snacks around. Nibblies like nuts, yoghurt and edamame beans should be kept on hand at all times so when the hunger pangs hit, you reach for them instead of hunting for that bag of stale cookies.

2. Eat fresh, preservativefree food. Add fruits and vegetables to all meals, along with protein and carbohydrates. Drink at least three litres of water a day.

7. Eat off a smaller plate.

This encourages portion control. It will create the illusion that you’ve eaten a full plate, and you’ll be less likely to return for seconds.

3. Avoid saturated fats.

This includes animal and milk fat, butter or lard, and tropical oils, such as palm and coconut. They clog your arteries and add unnecessary calories. Instead, use olive, canola and soybean oils.

8. Enlist a support team.

It’s important to have a friend (or two) who supports your desire to get healthy and can talk to you about your goals.

4. Cut down on soda (or cut it out). Fizzy drinks are filled with artificial sweeteners such as brown or raw sugar, dextrose, fructose, glucose, corn and malt syrup, maltose, lactose, molasses and sucrose. Giving up soda alone will help you lose about

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9. Don’t be too hard on yourself. If you have some setbacks because you’re on holiday or attending a birthday party, it’s OK! Just get back on track. You will be relieved to know that you can have a few days off without affecting your long-term goal.

10. Enjoy the journey. You are worth the work!

Trophies & Custom Signage Street Le Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai Hoc Offers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKET Saigon Cricket Assocation Social cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch.

Australian Cricket Club Terry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.au saigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo. com www.saigoncricket.com English Cricket Club Richard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.com www.eccsaigon.com Indian Cricket Club Manish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com United Cricket Club Mr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.net keshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCING DanCenter 46/2 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 6974 www.dancentervn.com Modern, centrally located studio with foreign trained dance instructors.

Classes for kids age 5+ in jazz, ballet, hip hop and tap dance. Classes for adults in yoga, jazz, hip hop, salsa, belly, tap and capoeira.

FITNESS & YOGA AIS Sports Centre 36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.com Features six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with BBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes.

Caravelle Club Spa 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999 Modern and stylish gym with lots of cardiovascular machines and free weights.

The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Curves 15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319

www.curvesvietnam.com Curves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories.

Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The city’s largest department store has a well-equipped gym with steam room, jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool. The gym costs from USD $90 per month.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation Group Tel: 093 804 3753 Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.com www.diamondway-teachings.org Meditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

Equinox Fitness & Leisure Centre Equatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777 Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

K1 Fitness and Fight Factory 346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111 www.teamminetti.com Fitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

L’Apothiquaire Fitness Centre 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Internationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

La Cochinchine Rex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1 Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477) New and affordable fitness centre located in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes.

Michelle Lloyd Yoga Tel: 0909 64 8193 michelleglloyd@gmail.com www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200 certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programs available. Contact Michelle for more information on her current schedule and special events.

Nutrifort 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560 news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com Comprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment.

Healthy snacks available.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq2@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.com First boutique, purpose-built fitness and wellness centre in Vietnam. Offers personal training, small group classes, specialized treatment and healthy dining at on-site restaurant Good Eats.

Park Hyatt Fitness Centre 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Luxury health centre with the full range of

facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre.

combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city.

Dong Nai Golf Resort Trang Bom Town, Trang Bom Tel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590 www.dongnaigolf.com.vn Large golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards.

Sheraton Fitness Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 sheraton.saigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Technogym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3821 995 odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day.

Yoga & Meditation Centre 335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706 www.ymc.org Professional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

FOOTBALL & RUGBY Australian Rules Football Tel: 093 768 3230 www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra).

Les Gaulois de Saigon www.gauloisdesaigon.com info@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMIT Vietnam sports.recreation@rmit.edu.vn A new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raiders jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com Sociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby Club Tel: 0903 735 799 www.saigonrfc.org saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments.

Saigon Saints chris@saigonsaints.com www.saigonsaints.com Expat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments.

GOLF Dalat Palace Golf Club Phu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat Tel: 063 3821 101 dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam,

Song Be Golf Resort 77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan An Tel: 0650 3756 660 info@songbegolf.com www.songbegolf.com Located 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course.

Also has tennis courts, a swimming pool, and a gymnasium.

LEISURE Hash House Harriers www.saigonh3.com Running club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runners www.phun-run.com info@phun-run.com Running group that meets Sundays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Saigon International Dart League www.thesidl.com A highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams.

Saigon International Softball League sisl@saigonsoftball.info www.saigonsoftball.info The league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Squash The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com One of three squash courts in town.

Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in advance or phone for further information.

Ultimate Frisbee RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 www.saigon-ultimate.com Join in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competitions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890 X-Rock Climbing www.xrockclimbing.com Offering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team building.

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health & beauty ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE Ciro Gargiulo CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn A holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

Institute of Traditional Medicine 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Traditional Medicine Hospital 197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with modern knowledge and expertise.

DENTAL European Dental Clinic 127 Dien Bien Phu, Dakao, D1 Tel: 3823 8680 Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0918 749 204.

Westcoast International Dental Clinic 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Tel: 3825 6999 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 6777 info@westcoastinternational.com www.westcoastinternational.com Canadian-run dental clinic staffed by French, Japanese, English and Vietnamese speaking dental professionals.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALON Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007 International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa 151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 1719 Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150 Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437 High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as

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luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche 2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products.

Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medicated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

questions for the coiffeur

The Salon 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394 Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations.

A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

MEDICAL CARE1 Executive Health Care Center The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 care1_reception@vietnammedicalpractice.com www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of Family Medical Practice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical International (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com Located downtown next to the cathedral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, osteopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1 Tel: 3823 8888 Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day.

Family Medical Practice HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Leading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacuations with car and air ambulance on standby.

Also in Hanoi and Danang.

FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com A foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic procedures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

International SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare.

Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases.

Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare International Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545

Help Your Stylist Help You

By Lloyd Morgan Q: I've been to many stylists here in the city, and I'm never happy with the results. What do you think the issue is?

A: If by “many stylists” you mean you’ve gone to lots of Vietnamese salons, then the answer is simple. Most stylists lack experience with Caucasian hair. It's not their fault.

Also, the language barrier may be the problem. Some of the better-educated Vietnamese stylists who do Caucasian hair can be just as expensive as the foreign owned salons.

Bringing a picture of the cut or colour may help, but it won’t break down the communication barrier completely.

If you’re talking about foreign stylists, as well, then I think you need to consider that it might be you that is the problem.

If you go from one salon to the other just because you don't like what's being produced, then one of two things is happening. Either you're not being explicit enough about your desired style or you don't really know what you want.

Both problems can be solved by engaging in dialogue with your stylist. Schedule a longer appointment to talk things over, and again, bring pictures. Help the stylist envision what you want. In this way, both stylist and client work

together to achieve a desired effect.

On the other hand, if the stylist gets defensive when you communicate that you don’t like his or her work, be firm. All good stylists should guarantee their work. I have a seven-day guarantee. I've done this all over the world.

It’s just standard procedure; you should be able to return to the salon for any alterations at no extra charge. It's kind of like going to a tailor.

Above all, be fair in your assessment of stylists. If you keep going from salon to salon, you will continue to have problems.

Q: I've heard you've moved again.

A: Yes. Sorry to move around so much, but I'm at my final place now. I am now located at the tranquil Golden Café Restaurant, which has just reopened with a new menu and new staff. The salon is in the entrance of the courtyard. The address is 234 Nguyen Van Huong in Thao Dien, District 2. I look forward to welcoming old and new clients alike.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Studio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydskate@hotmail.com.

79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

NAILS Nghia Beauty 20 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Tel: 3829 2688 Located next to the Ben Thanh Market, clean efficient and friendly staff service your hands and feet with a range of treatments while you relax in a comfortable atmosphere.

Nail P.KH 51 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 A well-known local place with a number of manicure stations and an extensive range of services. A mani-pedi with polish starts at 40,000 VND. OPI 253 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 International brand of nail care offering a variety of treatments from standard manicures at 50,000 VND to the whole host nail services such as acrylics, powder gell, cuticle treatments and French polishing.

Quang Qui’s Nails 146 Le Thanh Ton, D1 242 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Locally popular spots with low prices and good service, offering anything you could possibly want for your nails.

SKINCARE Avon 186A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 4018 www.vn.avon.com HCMC branch of the world’s largest direct seller of cosmetics occupies the ground floor of District 3 villa, selling brand names like Anew, Skin-So-Soft and Avon Natural.

The Body Shop 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3683 www.thebodyshop.com Internatioanl cosmetics retailer with strong commitment to environment sources natural ingredients from small communities for its line of more than 600 products.

Dermalogica Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372 www.dermalogica.com U.S. brand of cleansers popular among skin care professionals. The line of toners, exfoliants, moisturizers and masques are engineered by skin therapists to be free of common irritants, and the company is categorically opposed to animal testing.

The Face Shop 294 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3820 2325 598B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3832 2095 94 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3923 9868 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.thefaceshop.com Local retailer for the South Korea-based international brand of natural body, bath and skincare products. The company pairs variety with value, offering hundreds of products for different skin types.

L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Parkson Saigon Tourist Plaza Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 64A Truong Dinh, D3 07 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 www.lapothiquaire.com info@lapothiquaire.com French-made natural products for all types of skin. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from Erbario Toscano. Available at all L’Apothiquaire outlets.

L’Occitane en Provence New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 French cosmetics company with a 30year history offering a range of bath and massage oils, essential oils, body and

hand care products are especially well known. Also has outlets in all the major downtown shopping malls.

Sian Skincare Laser Clinic 71–77 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel:3827 6999 info@sianclinic.com www.sianclinic.com Skincare laser clinic offering the latest in non-surgical esthetic treatments including Botox, laser, acne treatments, hair loss regrowth, hair removal, skin rejuvenation and anti-aging treatments.

Led by Dr. Tran Ngoc Si, a leading esthetic dermatologist from the hospital of Dermatology of HCMC. Yves Rocher 16-18 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3824 8782 www.yves-rocher.com Small centrally located boutique retailing in French brand of botanical fragrances, face and body care, cosmetics and anti-aging solutions.

SPAS Aqua Day Spa Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828 Recently revamped luxury eight-room spa with a holistic approach to treatment, using natural Harnn products plus hot stone therapy and seaweed treatments.

Belissima Spa 3rd Floor Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3272 8682 Well known in Hanoi and now available in HCMC, Belissima offers range of facial treatments, body therapies, and hand and foot treatments as well as special packages such as Coffee and Chocolate Body Toning Treatment.

Jasmine Spa 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737 jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offer haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facials, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massages from USD $79.

La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181/3932 5082 info@lapothiquaire.com www.lapothiquaire.com Traditional French day spa in colonial villa with professional therapists and state-of-the-art treatments. Complimentary use of swimming pool, sauna and steam bath. Has fitness centre and organic garden restaurant and offers gentlemen’s care. Winner of Guide Award 2005-2009. Also offers exclusive natural Italian skin, body and hair care from ErbarioToscano.

NTFQ2 Spa 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 Tel: 3744 6672 Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flexibility and relieve back pain. Also offering Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage to reduce tension and reiki treatments.

Renaissance Riverside Spa 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033 No-frills Vietnamese, shiatsu and aromatherapy massages from USD $22 plus a room dedicated to foot massages from $18 at the atrium level.

Xuan Spa Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234 Beautiful spa with highly rated Swedish massage and water therapy including the unique 60 minutes Vichy shower to soften and smooth skin or the Indian Shirodhara with special oil for 45 minutes. Spa packages aimed at rejuvenation, calming, and hydrating are also available.

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listings

Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Contact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENT

family ACTIVITIES Alpha Gallery 10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Freedom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored.

Conservatory of Music 112 Nguyen Du, D1 The established training centre for professional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

Helene Kling Painting helene_kling@yahoo.com Offers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Rubba Duckies Swim School rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Parent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon Movement An Phu Tel: 098 702 7722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Sports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony Club Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2 Tel: 0913 733 360 Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports Academy An Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790 info@saigonsportsacademy.com Sports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing Arts Academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae Kwondo BP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2 phucteacherkd@yahoo.com Private and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly

Baby 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

Babyland Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman Bebe Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 8724 www.mamanbebe.com.vn Stocks an assortment of modern strollers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be 230 Vo Thi Sau, D3 40 Ton That Tung, D1 141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan 246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi 1B Ton That Tung, D1 A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with everything you need for your baby. Clothing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.

An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

CLOTHING Be Happier 181 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Dist A small outlet providing children’s clothes from 1 to 6 years old, using only cotton.

Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel.

Children Planet 90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality apparel, imported material from Singapore.

Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

Dabs Kids Fashion 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 A good selection of both casual and formal clothing for kids aged five to ten.

Party dresses, simple T-shirts, trousers and more are all good quality and very reasonably priced. Backpacks and other accessories are also on sale.

DLS Paris 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from newborns to pre-school age) at high to midrange prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

Kiko 262 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Wide range of Japanese imported elastic cotton for children, newborns to 14 years old. Kiko also has an outlet on the second floor of Parkson Plaza.

La Maison 226 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 On the second floor of this upscale furniture store is a lovely range of pretty dresses and other cotton apparel for kids, from babies to pre-school age.

Prices are reasonable.

Little Anh – Em 41 Thao Dien, D2 A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong 44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079 220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224 222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183 www.ninhkhuong.vn Well-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. Newborn to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo 173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329 263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVE Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307

High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/ daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful 227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54 contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.com This newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY. Tuti Bella Vincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1 75 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 49A Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9088 www.tutibella.net Self-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

EDUCATION ABC International School 2,1E street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com UK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified

by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British teachers. Good facilities and extra-curricular activities.

ACG International School East West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com

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ask auntie emily

Diagnosing Schoolitis

By Emily Huckson Dear Auntie Em: My 3-year-old daughter has been in full-time school for more than two months. I am now hearing, “I don’t want to go to school today.” Initially, she went into the classroom willingly, but now she is reluctant to go at least twice a week. Once she is there, she is engaged, happy and involved.

Schoolitis Dear Schoolitis: I remember when I would be “sick” only to have a chance to be with my mum by myself. The memories of those days are still very precious to me. Mum used to say, “Every dog has its day,” which meant that it was OK to take a day off here and there.

We all need a break from time to time, don’t we? Although as a parent, you need to set limits and cannot allow our children to take advantage.

You say your child is happy and content once she’s in the classroom with friends.

Double check with the teacher to make sure she is not being shunned or teased. Ask for some advice. If there is an obstacle, work together to help your child overcome it. If there are no problems at school, consider giving her a day or two here and there.

Hopefully you have the flex-

ibility to spend some time with your child during the day. Have breakfast, go shopping or just sit and read a book or play for that first hour of school time.

Just let the teacher know your child will be late or absent!

For a 3-year-old, spending time with a parent might be more important than what is going on in school. Not all children at this age are ready for a full five-day programme.

You may want to dial back to three days. Many schools offer a variety of schedules for this age group. On the other hand, since she is happy and seems well adjusted at school, you might just find ways to manage those rues of hers.

That being said, you have to gauge this based on the age of the child. Parents need to realize that there is a balance between school time and quality parenting. Sometimes, parents entertain the notion that once their child is in school they are taken care of.

Those lost days don’t matter too much in the early years. Every dog has its day, and we need those all-aboutme days with parents to re-connect.

Email your questions about childhood development to auntie-em@asialifehcmc. com

Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. International curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The Australian International School Saigon Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle & Senior Campus 21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.com www.aisvietnam.com An international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Foundation Studies grade 12 curriculum. Wellresourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

Renaissance International School 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171 www.rissaigon.edu.vn IB World school, one of Vietnam’s international schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challenging and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

British International School Primary Campus 43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com With campuses all over the city and expansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curriculabased education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities.

Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369 Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Canadian International School SC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 1549 Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh www.cis.edu.vn cis@cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students.

Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universities worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Saigon Language School 02 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3933 0773 / 4 www.saigonlanguage.com A professional language school that teaches Japanese and Vietnamese language courses. Vietnamese group lessons begin monthly.

International School HCMC 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com One of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

International School Saigon Pearl 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89 www.issp.edu.vn Opening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the second year, sixth grade will be added.

ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The Little Genius International Kindergarten 102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5421 1052 Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited curriculum, modern facilities and attractive school grounds.

Montessori International School International Program 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2

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Tel: 3744 2639 Bilingual Program 28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2 Tel: 6281 7675 www.montessori.edu.vn Montessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curriculum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Saigon Kids Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan, D3 Tel: 3932 5579 saigonkidscentre@yahoo.com An international childcare centre for children aged between two and six years old. Offers a homely and warm environment for children to play and learn.

Saigon South International School Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn An International school environment offering an American/international program in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star International School 172 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Tel: 3822 0341 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn Offers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

New campus soon open in D2.

Singapore International School (SIS) No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Residential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh District Tel: 5431 7477 44 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 2807 Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464 The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036 www.kinderworld.net Students play and learn in an environment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to prepare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum. The school offers International Certifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC. SmartKids 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 Tel: 3744 6076 26 Street 10, D2

Tel: 3898 9816 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

Stamford Grammar 214 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3930 7343 4Bis Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Tel: 3822 3339 www.stamfordgrammar.com enquiry@stamfordgrammar.com International kindergarten following a Singapore curriculum for children from 18 months to 6 years of age. Taught by Vietnamese and native English-speaking teachers. Outdoor play areas, swimming pool, music and art & craft rooms where students can play and learn in a safe environment.

The American School 172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3519 2223 info@tasvietnam.edu.vn An independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly individualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENT Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, D1 The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones entertained for hours with an impressive array of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & Music Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1

Tel: 3827 7008 www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn The Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Parkson’s numerous concession stands.

PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Well-known toy shop that also does a substantial line in fancy dress costumes and partywear.

Beatrice’s Party Shop 235 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertainers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong 131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holidayspecific party costumes.

The Balloon Man Tel: 3990 3560 Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turning up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

Vietnamese Group Lesson, New course!

Vietnamese Group Lesson will start from

October 12th 2010

Schedule: 10:20 ~ 11:50, Tue & Thu (2 lessons/week x 10 weeks),

up to 7persons/class.

Vietnamese Private Lesson is opened according to the private schedule of learner.

2 Truong Dinh, Ward 6, Dist.3, HCM City (At Truong Dinh St. & Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St. crossroad)

TEL：08.3933 0773 - 08.3933 0774 www.saigonlanguage.com

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finance

listings

living BUSINESS GROUPS AmCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562 www.amchamvietnam.com

Take Charge of Taxes

By Paul McLardie They say that there are two things inevitable in life: death and taxes. But do you realize, as a consumer, how much of your earnings actually goes towards paying taxes and how much belongs to you? The answer could have significant implications for your future.

First things first. There are basically two different types of tax: direct and indirect.

Direct tax is paid directly to the government from the individual. These can include income tax, inheritance tax and corporation tax. Indirect taxation is a collection tax.

This is tax that is collected by an intermediary and then passed on to the government.

These include sales tax, insurance premium tax and value added tax (VAT).

According to The Tax Foundation, on average, it took 99 days in 2010 for Americans to earn enough to cover their tax liability for the year. That means if you worked every day in 2010, it would only be on the 9th of April that you earned enough money to pay this year's tax obligations at the federal, state and local levels. Taking the United States as an example, your Tax Freedom Day—the day you’ve honoured your tax liability—varies regionally. If you want to have a look at your individual state to see when its Tax Freedom Day was, visit www.taxfoundation. org/taxfreedomday.

With this in mind, and acknowledging that you will

94 asialife HCMC

always pay taxes, what can you do?

First of all make sure that you are paying the correct amount of tax at the correct time. I am not saying anything about avoiding or not paying your tax; just make sure you are not paying at a level above for your earnings. Second, find out what your allowances are and what you can claim back. This is something that isn’t done anywhere near enough. People are paying tax when they do not need to and missing the opportunity to claim certain allowances. Let me assure you, it’s not in any government’s best interests to tell you this information; you will need to find a good and trusted tax professional.

Finally, plan for the future.

Mechanisms exist that may be able to help you anticipate your tax burdens down the road. Areas to look into here are inheritance tax, capital gains tax, stamp duty and income tax on pensions. During your lifetime, at least one of these will affect you. Plan for the future and you will be in a better position. By doing your research ahead of time, you may find you are legally able to pay less tax. What tax you do need to pay, you’ll have already prepared for it as part of your long-term financial strategy.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Management. Contact him at Paul. mclardie@t-wm.com.

AusCham TV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74 www.auschamvn.org British Business Group of Vietnam 25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430 execmgr@bbgv.org www.bbgv.org CanCham New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Eurocham 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528 www.eurochamvn.org German Business Group 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 www.gba-vietnam.org Singapore Business Group Unit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcmc.org Swiss Business Association 42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2 Tel: 3744 6996 Fax: 3744 6990 Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com Hong Kong Business Association New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888 www.hkbav.com NordCham Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com

CAMERAS Hung Hai 75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

Le Duc 5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3 A shop for all your professional accessory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The 11 Le Cong Kieu, D1 An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equipment and spare parts also available.

Shop 46 46 Nguyen Hue, D1 Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual

focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERS Computer Street Luong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Trai This stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything computer related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

Future World 240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon 96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.vtsaigon.com A superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services.

Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTING Concetti 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.com Consulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

Ernst & Young Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Professional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant Thornton Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn International business advisors specializing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

IF Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor 1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361 Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.com Private insurance and finance.

Prism Information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416 info@prism.com.vn A foreign-owned information and communications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t-wm.com Specialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488 Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECOR

Antique Street Le Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc Chinh A variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

Aquarium Street Nguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh Thang Dedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Budget Housewares Street Corner of Pasteur and Nguyen Dinh Chieu Stock up on shower heads, kitchen supplies (juicer, spatula, grater, etc.), coat racks, clothes hangers, pots, pans, champagne flutes, bowls, coolers, trash bins, ironing boards, magazine racks and the like.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

OUT-2 STUDIO L6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056 STUDIO@OUT-2.com www.out-2.com Studio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Vietnam-Quilts 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.mekong-quilts.org NGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICS Hi End Audio 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment.

Retails in everything from giant plasmascreen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available. iDEAS Shopping Centre 133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper warranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre 63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com Stocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu 125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinphongvu.com Two-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Savico 117 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7993

One-stop electronics and home appliance superstore. All products have a one to three-year warranty.

Tech Street Huyen Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1 Sells compact discs, DVDs, electronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITURE Appeal 41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258 A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

AustinHome 20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023 Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam.

Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual 15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394 Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillowcases and duvet covers.

Decosy 112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Esthetic 2B Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3910 1996/7 Design and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture.

Friendly staff speak excellent English.

Furniture Outlet 3A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104 Wide selection of well-crafted and carefully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

Furniture Street Ngo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi Thanh Very affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodworkers’ shops.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com Four-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson Johnston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

Linh’s White 37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863 Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com Boutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The Furniture Warehouse 3B Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 6657 0788 namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@ webtnl.com Offers a range of reasonably priced Italian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications.

All at international quality export.

Tran Duc Homes 33 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 7300 0777 Level 5, Wonderbuy Center, 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 6291 8485 B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experienced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGAL

Allens Arthur Robinson Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzie Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakernet.com International law firm providing on-theground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

Frasers International Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com Full service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients specializing in transactions in Vietnam.

Lucy Wayne & Associates 17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 4395 www.lwavietnam.com Law firm providing legal services across the board from entertainment and environmental law to health care and real estate.

Phillips Fox Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717 Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers Legal Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1

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Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com/vn Part of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & Partner Somerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3824 4225 www.roedl.com European legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTING

Light House 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tel: 3914 2662 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selection of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

Luxury Light 1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique 98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 One of the best and most diverse selections of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure Light 18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315 www.treasure-light.com High-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisticated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKES Automotive Street Ly Thai To Street, D10 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast Services include mending motorbike seats and sound system installation.

Products range from zebra print motorbike seat covers to car and motorbike tyres, hubcaps, rims, subwoofers and sound systems by Xplode.

Bike City 480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets 18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed polystyrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

Zeus Helmets Founded in Taiwan to manufacture cool, comfortable helmets that meet worldwide safety standards. Basic models feature thermo-injected shells constructed from lightweight ABS composite with interiors lined with moisture-absorbant brushed nylon.

REAL ESTATE Ava Residence 40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440 www.avaresidence.com Modern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British International School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard Ellis Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com International property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan Street Tel: 3822 1922 lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vn Located in the heart of District 1, connected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

Thaodien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com Colonial-style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining on the banks of the Saigon River in expat enclave.

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888

saigon@interconti.com www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Contemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

Namhouse Corporation 24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511 www.namhouse.com.vn Provides rental properties, construction services and interior decorating.

Supports professional services and after-sales.

Snap Tel: 0989 816 676 www.snap.com.vn Online Real Estate service providing information on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENT

cv@firstalliances.net As Vietnam’s most established recruitment consultancy, First Alliances operates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also providing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

First Alliances #609, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079 www.firstalliances.net

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSC Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com HR consulting advises businesses on

Norfolk Mansion 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3825 7286 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Features 126 elegant apartments located within walking distance to the city centre and close to business destinations and famous landmarks.

Platinum1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com Your one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside-apartments.com One of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon Properties Ground floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517 www.saigonproperties.com Real estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and specializes in investment properties.

Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur St., D3 Tel: 3823 2288 Hotline: 0917470058 www.sherwoodresidencecom Sherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

Established since 2001 Design, Interior/External Decorations of High Quality Wood Products Manufacturing for Export, Construction Projects, Retails,...

Copy-Antique Productions, Modern Designs and Made to order More than 10 years experience Devoted premium services/after sales services, every time, every where

2B Ngo Van Nam, Dist.1, HCMC (Near the Mandarine restaurant) Tel: (84 8) 3910 1996 / 97 – Fax: (84 8) 3910 1995 Hot line: Ms. Nhat Thu Director - 0903 849 232 Email: esthetic@vnn.vn Website: www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn

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people matter

how to improve employee productivity.

The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Mekong Emerald Talent Recruitment 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 0938 001 509 www.mekongem.com Offers comprehensive manpower services including executive search and selection, employment outsourcing and HR management in a wide variety of industries.

Opus Vietnam 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel.

An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Seeing Things Through

By Gary Woollacott A couple of months ago in this column I suggested doing something out of the ordinary to stand out from the crowd and make your mark. I described how important it is to step out of your comfort zone at work and do something very different. Not only will you learn from the experience, you’ll attract positive attention from those in a position to help your career.

This month, I'm going to pick up that topic once again and urge you to consider taking on new work responsibilities—with a caveat, suggested by my old friend KW. If you do push your personal boundaries, don't give up until the job is complete to all parties’ satisfaction.

It's a sad fact that so many projects (all over the world, not just here in Vietnam) start out with great intentions but get dropped when the going gets a bit rough. It is all too easy to just drop the responsibility. In Australia we even have an expression for it: the project goes in the “Too Hard Basket.”

Keep in mind that the reality of the situation is likely to be a lot better than your perception of it. This is something we can forget when we are up close and so involved. Just take a deep breath, step back and take a dispassionate view of the project, how far it has come and how much is left to

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be done. Then break it down into manageable parts that don't overwhelm anyone. By taking these simple steps some of the seemingly tough obstacles may become less problematic. It may surprise you that suddenly the project completion is in sight; it wasn’t that bad after all.

Be patient with others if you’re the project leader.

They are probably just as frustrated as you are. If you show your frustration you can be guaranteed that you won't get the best out of your team members. Fostering morale is an essential part of your responsibility. By hanging in there and demonstrating your leadership qualities, as well as your ability to get things done, you are highly likely to gain respect not only from your team members but also from others within your organization.

And these days, how can an enhanced level of professional respect be anything other than good?

As usual, let me know if you have any particular topic you would like to see covered here.

Gary Woollacott is the chief representative for Opus Executive Search in Vietnam and Thailand. He can be reached at 3827 8209 or via gary@ opusasia.net. Opus is an associate of Horton International.

Vietnamworks.com 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Excellent section on advice for jobseekers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview technique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTS Allied Pickfords Satra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 0122 5141 848 aurelien.jouve@alliedpickfords.com.vn http://vn.alliedpickfords.com Moving and relocating services company specializing in business and office moves.

Overseas and specialist movers also available.

Crown Worldwide Movers 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127 www.crownrelo.com International moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transportation of household, office and industrial goods.

Mekong Emerald (MEK) Relocation 68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Tel: 09800 1509 www.mekongem.com Full range of services including pet move/ care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support.

Santa Fe Relocation Services Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Provides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

STATIONARY Fahasa 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796 Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel 45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253 www.pi-channel.com Boutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing Street Ly Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeast More than 25 stores providing photocopying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

listings

fashion ACCESSORIES Accessorize 48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorize Fashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

Alfred Dunhill Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

Anupa Boutique 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307 anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.net The ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections available range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries childrens wear, toys, furniture and homewares.

Bally Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 www.experience.bally.com Flagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men.

Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

Cartier Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan This well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati 177P Dong Khoi, D1 www.cincinati.vn info@cincinati.vn Vietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look.

Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls 30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2 Tel: 091 3587 690 Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

Creation 105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429 A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailormade silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of materials on the second floor.

Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Deanh Jewellery Eden Mall, 106 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3827 6039 Gorgeous selection of gold accessories imported from Turkey and Italy. Also has a selection of simple ring designs to set your precious stones in.

Gallery vivekkevin FAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 6291 3709 info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.com Handcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688 Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

Ipa-Nima 85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652 New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand.

Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver 803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5411 1188 Make a statement without being ostentatious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

Laura V Signature 11 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 7304 4126 www.laurav.net Vintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

Lovely Lien Jewellery 20 Le Loi, D1 A small and unassuming jewellery store with beautiful and reasonably-priced necklaces, bracelets and earrings. You can also bring your own precious stones or ask the designers to make something unique for you.

Louis Vuitton Opera View, corner of Dong Khoi and

Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318 Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai 4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007 A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets.

Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous handembroidered bags.

Mont Blanc Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Notable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories Therese Jewellery Sheraton Hotel, 88F Dong Khoi, D1 www.theresejewelry.com Small, glitzy retail outlet. Sells everything from diamond earrings to gold and silver wedding rings. Of special note is the selection of jade Buddhas in varying sizes, with the larger ones costing USD $250.

The friendly staff speak excellent English.

Houses & Villas For rent in Dist.2, HCM: An Phu, Thao Dien, & Tran Nao

Save time: See all pictures & details online.

Updated daily.

www.snap.com.vn

Scorpion Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889 www.scorpionbag.com Selling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories.

Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop 72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519 www.tictacwatch.com Elegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evaluation available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo 145 Dong Khoi, D1 Of all the embroidered and sequined bags, shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Tumi Rex Hotel, 151 Nguyen Hue www.intl.tumi.com Tumi houses an opulent selection of Italian-made luggage geared towards men. Briefcases, messenger bags and backpacks are among those on display.

Umbrella 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6276 2730

112 Xuan Thuy Ward Thao Dien District 2 Ho Chi Minh City Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917 shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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www.umbrella-fashion.com Sophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s garments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

Luggage Street Le Lai Street, D1 between Ben Thanh Market and Truong Dinh.

Duffle bags, backpacks, messenger bags and carry-on suitcases are all available on this stretch of District 1.

ACTIVE WEAR China Beach Surf Club Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

Pinko Rex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3827 2240 Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and Quiksilver Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre 102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan This store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse.

Volcom

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girlfriends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEAR unisex 2bling 246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Specializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop 174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826 In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua Local Streetwear Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9599 www.bosua.vn An offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam. “ello 263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan This tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK 127 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1

Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3914 7740 www.frenchconnection.com Trendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

Hagattini 1A Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Tel: 2244 8105 www.hagattini.com Vietnamese brand housing clothing for all occasions. Normal to office wear, casual to party outfits using materials imported from Hong Kong and designed and made in Vietnam.

Konheo 32 Dinh Tien Hoang, Binh Thanh Tel: 6653 4187 info@konheo.com www.konheo.com Founded and run by a group of local Vietnamese guys, this T-shirt store flaunts simple-cut T-shirts with playful prints and humorous printed texts. Also does custom made t-shirts for 160,000 VND. Levi’s Flagship Store 19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501 The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

L’Usine 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Carries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Lu.Xu.Bu

320 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Well known among the HCMC hipsterati, this trendy shop is mostly given over to T-shirts (many by young, Bangkok-based designers), but also carries jeans, button shirts and more.

Miss Sixty & Energie 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Local outlet of the Miss Sixty brand hugely favoured by Hollywood’s young starlets. Also stocks clothes from its men’s label, Energie.

Orange 238 Pasteur, D3 Funky little boutique carries unique accessory pieces a good selection of T-shirts with quirky, unique graphics for very reasonable prices. A smaller outpost is located at the corner of Pasteur and Le Thanh Ton in District 1.

Rok Factory 382 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.rokexchange.com Small shop founded by local artist/ photographer carries streetwear for the rock-oriented lifestyle, including T-shirts, hoodies, socks and accessories.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 116 Nguyen Trai, D1 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3925 0252 Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneakers at mid-range prices.

Runway Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9988 runway.sg@global-fashion.vn Massive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands

include Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

See By Harajuku 130 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 090 986 8622 Small, friendly store stocking both men’s and women’s streetwear, channelling Japanese and Korean fashion trends.

Bright and funky T-shirts and maxi dresses, as well as accessories and footwear. New stock every month.

Versace 26 Dong Khoi Designer brand in men’s formal wear.

Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories.

Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOV Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan www.vovietchung.com Retail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

men Lucas 69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670 Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accessories designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre 19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412 This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashionforward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi www.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selection of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada 150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508 mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male 226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416 www.newurbanmale.com Caters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear.

The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Timberland Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual.

The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

women Axara Vincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh

Ton, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3993 9399 www.axara.com Carries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and accessories.

Balenciaga Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572 Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

Bebe Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3914 4011 www.bebe.com An international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9888 www.itamoda.com.vn Luxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small collection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

Caro Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, D1 Local designs and tailoring of elegant tops and dresses with a distinctly Eastern influence. Provides a range of attire for both the office and a night out. The friendly staff is eager to help find an outfit for any occassion.

Chloe Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 6291 3582 Parisian-influenced fashion house specializes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

Contraband Parkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ready-to-wear brand for hip, modern women. Range includes office wear to evening wear. The collection is updated each month with new international trends.

Dieu Thanh Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop also carries its own line of clothing. Once specialized in swimwear and cotton clothing but has expanded to sell business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

ER-Couture Boutique 43 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2411 www. er-couture.com erolskov@er-couture.com Exclusive Scandinavian brand offering designer garments. Versatile fashion for women in European sizes 34-44. Each style is released in limited quantities and can be tailored to individual taste.

Esprit 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Outpost for the international brand of colourful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

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femme fashion

Etam 188 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495 Carries a range of couture and pret-aporter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 8272 enquiry@geishaclothing.com Facebook: Geisha Boutique Australian fashion label offering a contemporary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses.

Fall Forward

By Adrian Nguyen You can’t just cruise through fall with only the six tips from my last column, so here are some more fab trends for you to strut it down the busy streets: Leather The new leather is feather-light and versatile.

Wear a black mini leather skirt with a slinky silk blouse; black leggings and a pair of skyhigh Louboutins for maximum impact. Or, opt for leather leggings and a sequined trophy jacket on top of a corset. Finish it off with ankle boots for an evening rocker-chic look.

Biker Jackets These jackets are so hot this season. Aviator jackets work, too. Team your black leather jacket with skin tight jeans and a thin white tee with platform shoes and you’re so ready to rock the town, day or night. Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens have styles that could rock you (and your credit card) while Zara has several retailing for just under USD $300.

Red Hot Sexy and sensual, red is really major this season.

Make a striking entrance and sensational exit with a hautehued draped dress, nude shoes and clutch for night, or just simple red lips with jeans for day. Try Chanel Rouge Allure in Vertige.

Cutout Lingering from last season is the cutout trend.

It’s the new provocative way to dress, showing a little bit of skin here and there in a sexy but not trashy way. Gucci has

102 asialife HCMC

some amazing pieces; for a better price tag, check out Bebe.

One Shouldered I love it when a favourite trend comes back, especially so soon. You can dig out that piece you just bought last year, put a huge flower brochette on and throw in a fab necklace. Voila… a new trendy look. That said, invest in this trend because it’s constantly coming back. You won’t have a problem finding it because all designers are showing it.

Frame Bag This will be a trend you’ll no doubt fall in love with: the ladylike, feminine frame bag. It’s structured and clean. It’s very 60s. It works great with a full skirt or, alternatively, you can put a modern twist on it and pair it with your jeans.

But remember the satchels that were such a hit over the summer? They’re still hot, too, and probably will be for a few more seasons, so don’t throw them away. My girls (and moi) are still holding on tightly to our Alexa’s.

I have had a few emails asking about local brands and stores, so check back next month.

I’ll pull out my shopping book and give you the details of where to get what—right here in HCM City.

Adrian Nguyen is a designer and the owner of the Valenciani brand. Email your fashion questions to Adrian.ngn@ gmail.com.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 2nd floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 Australian designer Tracey Kociuruba creates intricately embellished statement pieces in her Easten-European inspired shop slash studio.

Kiwi 74/1 Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 1191 Small and intimate shop with a modern collection of fashion items geared towards the young and active urban female.

Kookai Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi French brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twentyand thirty-something women.

La Senza 47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 1700 65 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328 www.lasenza.com Boutique carrying a wide range of bras, panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

Labella 85-87 Pasteur, D1 This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

Le Samedi 21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013 Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacy www.lululacy.com Boutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently refreshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai Lam 132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733 www.mailam.com.vn Boutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in handsewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango 96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks

clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc Jacobs Rex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1 Tel: 6291 3580 This spacious shop with high-ceilings carries up-market clothes, shoes and accessories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Minh Hanh 24 Dong Khoi, D1 and 114B Nguyen Hue Tel: 3824 5774 www.mhminhhanh.com Hand- and machine-embroidered fashion made from natural fabrics and materials wed traditional Vietnamese elements with modern trends. Local celebrities frequent this shop.

Muse Boutique Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Boutique store carries well-known international brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

Nang Boutique 181 Dong Khoi, Room 209, D1 iheartnang@gmail.com Houses an assortment of mix-andmatch skirts, floral dresses, chiffon lace-trimmed gowns and accessories, such as hats, shoes, bags, scarves and jewellery.

Nino Max 189B Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local popular brand of active-casualwear t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Local pricing. You can also find their other outlets in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Peacock 35 Ton That Thiep Tel: 3829 7045 Moulin Rouge-themed boutique housing an interesting selection of women’s clothes designed and produced in Vietnam, including dresses, shirts and t-shirts, as well as jewellery.

Rana Abodeely Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel:3825 7307 Luxury resort wear in soft, feminine styles. Made with 100% Vietnamese silk with signature glass bead detailing.

Comfort, ease and elegance are the main forms of the collection.

Shae 101-103 Nguyen Trai, D1 www.shaeny.com New York brand housing streetwear such as cardigans, dresses, shorts and accessories.

Signature Boutique 154 Dong Khoi, D1 Houses some of the world’s most recognized luxury fashion brands: Roberto Cavalli, Versace, D&G and Missoni.

Song Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 76D Le Thanh Ton Offers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

Tracey Kociuruba Fashion Gallery 43 Ton That Thiep in District 1, 2nd fl.

Tel: 3915 3242 www.traceykociuruba,com Eastern European-inspired fashion boutique with eclectic yet elegant designs with intricate hand-spun details—50sstyle jumpsuits with bustier necklines, silk kaftans and high-waisted shorts and skirts.

Valenciani Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 2788 66-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688 valenciani.sg@gmail.com

www.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOES Aldo 157 Dong Khoi, D1 Offering a wide selection of affordable footwear from mid- to high-range prices.

Carries office-appropriate and partyready heels and flats, as well as a range of accessories and bags.

Catwalk 80 Pham Hong Thai Tel: 3829 6819 www.catwalkshoes.com Carries a unique range of Spanish shoes and bags.

Charles & Keith 10 Mac Thi Buoy, 18-20 Nguyen Trai Tel: 3925 1132 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.charleskeith.com Singapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1 148 Nguyen Trai, D1 122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584 www.converse.com.vn Sells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at department stores around HCMC. Dr. Marten’s 173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710 Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Footwear Street Ho Xuan Huong Street, D3 between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Le Thi Hong Gam in D1 between Pho Duc Chinh and Calmette Selection ranges from leather loafers to plastic thongs and everything in between.

Nine West Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Stocks an extensive range of designer footwear for women. Handpicked by a global community of independent trendsetters and stylists.

Sergio Rossi 146AB Pasteur, D1 Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of upmarket shoes and bags made of quality

materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

Star Polo 97B Nguyen Trai, D1 Mix of imported shoes and locally made footwear crafted from Australian leather for men and women as well as imported ones. Sizes from 38 to 42 for men, and from 34 to 40 for women.

TAILORS

Dieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851 www.dieuthanh.com Experienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Saigon’s first real estate professional has this wonderful, fully restored classic French villa with a pool, available now for residence or office. Located in a very quiet, peaceful setting, back off the street.

Ample parking.

Come in or call to and speak with one of our American or Vietnamese agents.

Dzung 221 Le Thanh Ton, D1 One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Fabric Street Hai Ba Trung, D1 across the street from Tan Dinh Market.

Spools upon spools of fabric manufatured locally and abroad, with more than ample variety of textures, colours and materials to choose from.

Fair Fahion 69/20 Duong D2, Binh Thanh Tel: 3899 4198 www.fairfashionvn.org A non-profit retail store offering ready-towear and custom-made fashion. Dresses and formal gowns for women, suits and shirts for men, made by highly skilled former sex trade workers trained to haute couture sewing levels.

Massimo Ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Tel: 3930 6212 Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men.

Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Thuy Nga Design 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Conveniently located at the Opera House, this local boutique is a one-stop shop for both men and women. The range includes clothes, men’s and women’s accessories and costume jewellery.

Uyen 13 Nguyen Thiep, D1 An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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boxoffice

The expected dose of international blockbusters hits theatres this month, but October also sees a strong showing from local filmmakers.

In the fourth film in the series and the first shot in 3D, Milla Jovovich reprises her role as the superhuman zombie-fighter Alice in Resident Evil: Afterlife.

On a mission to Los Angeles to find signs of human settlement, Alice reunites with an amnesiac Claire Redfield (Ali Larter), who last appeared in Resident Evil: Extinction. Together with a band of survivors, they take the fight to those responsible for the zombie outbreak, the Umbrella Corporation and its mastermind, Albert Wesker.

More than two decades after Gordon Gekko gave us the mantra “Greed is good,” Michael Douglas reprises his role as the stock market tycoon in Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps.

Set in pre-financial crisis 2008, the film follows Gekko’s attempts to rebuild his relationship with daughter Winnie (Carey Mul-

ligan) after spending more than 20 years in prison on an insider trading conviction. When Winnie resists, Gekko enlists the help of her fiancé Jacob (Shia LaBeouf), a proprietary trader who in turn needs help exacting revenge on the man who killed his mentor.

Set against the conflict between the Kuomintang and Chinese Communist Party, Vuot Qua Ben Thuong Hai (Journey from Shanghai) is a stylized period thriller about the journey of Nguyen Ai Quoc—the man who would become Ho Chi Minh— from Hong Kong to the Soviet Union. On the streets of Shanghai, Nguyen Ai Quoc is pursued

by Kuomintang and French intelligence agents, but receives help from Soong Ching-ling, one of the most influential women in 20th-century Chinese politics.

With director Nguyen Duc Viet’s second hip-hop feature, Saigon Electric, due out in December, local cinemas are re-releasing his 2009 B-boy drama Bui Duong (Street Dust) this month. The plot follows two

siblings, Hanh and Nam, who struggle to achieve their dreams of hip-hop fame at a dance competition in Bangkok.

The first film developed for IMAX outside the United States arrives in Vietnam: the powerful and richly rendered Aftershock.

In the aftermath of the 1976 Tangshan earthquake, young Deng wakes up in the rubble of her hometown, traumatized and amnesiac. The story follows her recovery and life with her adopted family, moving inexorably towards the 2008 Sichuan earthquake, where Deng comes face to face with her past.

In The Other Guys, forensic accountant Allen Gamble (Will Ferrell) and his reluctant partner Detective Terry Holtz (Mark Wahlberg) are two New York City cops stuck behind their desks.

Gamble and Holtz get the chance to tackle the mean streets when the department’s golden boys (Samuel L. Jackson and Dwayne Johnson) are taken out of the picture. Navigating a series of buddy cop clichés, the duo realizes that

doling out justice is harder than it looks.

Based on the 2005 short story “The Boundless Rice Field” by Nguyen Ngoc Tu, Canh Dong Bat Tan (Floating Lives) features Dustin Nguyen in a story about a modern Mekong Delta family struggling with the fallout of infidelity and betrayal. In a bid to expose the wider world to Vietnamese cinema, the filmmakers screened footage at this year’s Cannes Film Festival.

High-octane heist film Takers features an ensemble cast including Idris Elba, Paul Walker, Hayden Christensen, Michael Ealy and recording artists Chris Brown and T.I. When Ghost (T.I.) returns to the fold after being jailed for his part in a robbery gone wrong, he lays out a plan to hijack an armoured car for his former partners. However, suspicion and tension underpin the job, and detectives Jack Welles (Matt Dillon) and Eddie Hatcher (Jay Hernandez) are determined to foil the plan and bring the gang to justice.

Opening Dates CINEMAS C: Cinebox

www.cinebox212.com.vn

G: Galaxy

www.galaxycine.vn

L: Lottecinema

www.lottecinemavn.com

M: Megastar

www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long

www.giaitrithanglong.com/ cinema

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October 1 Resident Evil: Afterlife Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps Journey from Shanghai

October 15 Aftershocks The Other Guys

October 8 Bui Duong

October 29 Takers

October 22 Floating Lives

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

bookshelf

Freedom: A Novel

Simon Wiesenthal: The Life and Legends

Jonathan Franzen

Tom Segev

Farrar, Straus & Giroux

Knopf Doubleday Publishing

In Freedom: A Novel author Jonathan Franzen creates an intimate and profoundly realistic modern-day family drama, his first book in a decade since writing worldwide literary hit The Corrections.

Freedom revolves around the Berglunds—Walter who’s renowned for his “niceness,” his wife Patty, a washed-up college athlete turned domestic goddess and their two kids, Joey and Jessica. At first the author describes how the Berglund’s neighbours in quiet suburban St. Paul perceive them. While most consider Walter to be genuine, Patty is deemed insincere. This turns out to be true.

When Patty finds out Joey is having sex with their neighbour Connie, she unravels and becomes a neurotic and often drunk nuisance. The exaggerated character descriptions front the novel, and are followed by Patty’s autobiography (sub-titled “Composed at Her Therapist’s Suggestion”), which gives the reader some insight into her behaviour. Ultimately, Freedom chronicles the fall of a modern family and through the book Franzen attempts to trace the root of that fall to shine a light on modern America.

Israeli journalist and historian Tom Segev has compiled the first fully documented account of “Nazi hunter,” Simon Wiesenthal’s life—an Austrian Jew who survived the Holocaust and made it his mission to bring his persecutors to justice. With access to Wiesenthal’s private records and archives, the author has pieced together his subject’s life, from the harrowing years he spent in various concentration camps to his efforts to locate and prosecute Nazi criminals. In fact, as Segev details, Wiesenthal’s painstaking investigations (conducted from his own home) led to the arrest, prosecution and subsequent execution of Adolph Eichmann, chief of the Gestapo’s Jewish Office and responsible for implementing the Final Solution, which led to the mass killing of European Jews. According to the author, Wiesenthal—who died in 2005 at 96—avenged the deaths imagining one day meeting those who didn’t survive and being able to tell them, “I didn’t forget you.”

The Coming Famine: The Global Food Crisis and What We Can Do to Avoid It

Zero History

Julian Cribb

William Gibson

University of California Press

Putnam Adult

Julian Cribb, an Australian science writer, warns about the encroaching worldwide famine—a disaster he says will occur unless sustainable farming methods are adopted. According to him, mankind’s exploitation of the Earth’s natural resources has depleted food reserves to the point where a global shortage is unavoidable.

He offers some worthwhile solutions though, like subsidizing small farms and paying them fairer prices for production; taxing food to reflect the true costs to the environment and regulating practices that counter sustainability. Among his proposals, education, in his opinion, will prove the most effective. He also suggests some small steps individuals can take to contribute: swapping burgers for salads, wasting less food and gardening, for example. However, he notes that these measures will be useless unless they become mainstream. “Even if North Americans and Europeans halved their milk and dairy intake the saving would be completely swamped by the demand from 600 million newly affluent Indian and Chinese consumers,” he writes.

Acclaimed author of cult classic Neuromancer and cyberpunk innovator William Gibson delivers Zero History, the much-anticipated finale of the Bigend Trilogy. Set post-economic crash, the novel is largely a critique of over-consumption. Central to the story is Huburtus Bigend—the brains behind Blue Ant, a massive global “image” firm. Bigend’s influence extends far and wide, with Blue Ant covering “brand vision, transmission, trend forecasting, vendor management, youth market recon, strategic planning in general.”

In this instalment, Bigend recruits two employees: rockstar-turnedjourno Hollis Henry and Russian translator slash cryptologist Milgrim. It’s Hollis’ job to investigate Gabriel Hounds, an unusual clothing brand whose designers’ fame is attributed to their impenetrable obscurity. Milgrim’s task is to look into one of Bigend’s rivals, a company that produces clothes for the U.S. military to influence the men’s streetwear market. Ultimately, the book is a mouthpiece for Gibson to voice his views and criticisms of the world we live in and what he expects the future may hold.

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soundfix

by John Thornton

album review

WEEZER HURLEY After a decade marked by sporadic album releases and a long self-imposed exile, Weezer has lately been a picture of efficiency. Three albums in three years is a first for Weezer, although some fans clearly preferred sporadic to what was regarded as an inconsistent run in the 2000s. Hurley, however, may finally win over the hardcore holdouts, the guys with receding hairlines, upturned noses and a faded Pinkerton T-shirt. It's not a perfect album though. There are moments of pointless silliness (“Where's My Sex?” and “Smart Girls”) but there's also a bustling energy and a focused devotion to catchy, power-pop hooks that gives the album an irresistibly loveable quality.

Rivers Cuomo co-writes with an oddball cast that includes Ryan Adams, Linda Perry and Michael Cera, but Hurley is as close as we’ll get to classic Weezer, filled with conflicted nostalgia, a loser's perspective on girls and Cuomo's quirky version of hope, which typically comes wrapped in a disappointed and disillusioned anger.

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LINKIN PARK A THOUSAND SUNS Continuing their slow and painful crawl toward middle age, Linkin Park opts for moody over metallic on A Thousand Suns, their fourth studio album. Deliberately distancing itself from 2007’s Minutes to Midnight, A Thousand Suns swaps aggression for contemplation, burying guitars under washes of icy synthesizers and tribal beats. This is the sound of a rap-metal band that no longer plays metal but hasn’t outgrown the angst, choosing to channel their bedwetting instincts inward instead of outward. The main problem with A Thousand Suns is that the subdued rhythms, riffs and raps are utterly interminable, an impression not overturned by the brief bridges between songs, sampled speeches and easy segues. It’s all moodiness and no vitality. While brooding is a more appropriate vehicle for angst than rage for a group whose members are well into their thirties, A Thousand Suns is less than compelling for anybody lacking the patience to bother discerning the fine details.

TRICKY MIXED RACE

THE WALKMEN LISBON

Tricky, a subversive phenomenon during the 1990s ploughs on with his sui generis and uncompromising brand of triphop. Surprisingly, Mixed Race is rather fantastic and Tricky’s most consistent album since Maxinquaye. Single “Murder Weapon,” a surf-pop reworking of an old Echo Minott track, is somewhat uplifting with a vicious undercurrent, whilst the atmospheric “Ghetto Stars” is a gloomy affair, almost theatrical at times as its slow grooves meet soaring strings. “Every Day” provides Mixed Race with one of its brightest spots, a short but sweet bluesy effort that even sees an appearance from the harmonica on one of the album’s most acoustic-based tracks. At just over half an hour, Mixed Race is a bit of a tease, showcasing an array of styles, including Tom Waites-esque blues, funk, hip-hop, lounge and minimal before fading out at least 15 minutes too early.

However, during those 30 minutes, there are enough striking moments to prove that Tricky is finally back on form.

Upon listening to Lisbon, the sixth full-length album from Brooklyn indie-rock veterans The Walkmen, the first thing you’ll notice is how sunny their sound has become. Those familiar with their earlier work will note that Lisbon moves away from the chilly atmospherics present in so many older The Walkmen songs, in favour of shuffling tom-tom beats and sauntering reverb-drenched guitar. Album opener “Juveniles” illustrates this marked change in style, while “Blue as Your Blood” brings to mind a freight engine rolling through the heartland of America with its chugging metronomic beat. Other tracks utilize mariachi horns, lending credence to the name of the album. The production on Lisbon is superb; every instrument shines without overpowering any other components of the songs. Although the songs on Lisbon don’t include a brutal smash and grab hit such as “The Rat,” they flow together very well and arguably constitute the best and most complete full album listening experience The Walkmen have recorded to date.

xoneFM top ten

endorsed

Official xoneFM Vietnam Top 10 this last

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Gui lai chut huong Tinh yeu mai mai Doi yeu Suy nghi trong anh Bat song cam xuc Nguoi La Noi Cuoi Con Duong Vet nang cuoi troi Tim lai giac mo Hanh phuc thoang qua Ngot ngao

Ha Chuong Ho Quynh Huong My Tam Duy Khoa Wanbi Tuan Anh LK feat. Jay Tea Minh Vuong Ho Ngoc Ha Noo Phuoc Thinh Luong Bang Quang

Polaroids

By Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

US Top 10 this last

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Teenage Dream Love the way you lie Just the way you are Dynamite I Like It

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Dj got us falling in love Just a dream Take it off Club cant handle me

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Katy Perry Eminem feat. Rihana Bruno Mars Taio Cruz Enrique Iglesias feat.

Pitbull Usher feat. Pitbull Nelly Ke$ha Flo-Rida feat. David Guetta Taylor Swift

title

artist Alexandra Burke feat.

Laza Morgan Taio Cruz Katy Perry Script Olly Murs Eminem feat. Rihanna Usher feat Pitbull Katy B Flo-Rida feat David Guetta Shontelle

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Dynamite Teenage Dream For the first time Please don’t let me go Love the way you lie Dj got us falling in love Katy on a Mission Club cant handle me

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A click of a button, a whirring whoosh, and—voila! Taking a Polaroid is an iconic experience, enjoyed by generations since the first instant camera was created in 1948.

Photography legend recounts that Edwin Land, the American founder of the Polaroid Corporation, started developing the concept of instant cameras when his young daughter asked him why they couldn’t view their holiday snaps immediately. Within a few years, Land constructed the Model 95 camera, the first of many instant cameras that Polaroid would issue over ensuing years.

When I haul my Polaroid camera out in public, it always elicits a reaction, sometimes excitement and sometimes incredulity. Once I was dining at a restaurant in Croatia and I asked the server to photograph our table—drawing a roaring laugh when he caught sight of the camera. “Where’d you get this dinosaur? Didn’t know those were still around,” he scoffed, nearly doubling over with mirth.

Recently, it seemed that Polaroids were destined for extinction. In February 2008, Polaroid announced that the company would no longer be producing the instant film, devastating Polaroid enthusiasts all over the world. In response, independent groups, such as The Impossible Project,

purchased former Polaroid manufacturing equipment and continued creating film.

Many held on to the hope that Polaroids would return.

Luckily, the wait wasn’t too long. This spring, the Polaroid 300 came onto the market, following cooperation between Polaroid and Fuji. Nearly indistinguishable to the Fujifilm Instax Mini 7, released last year, the Polaroid 300 creates small, rectangular prints. Sold for USD $90, film comes in ten-packs for $10.

In a contemporary culture hungry for everything quick, easy and digital, Polaroids may seem redundant. Polaroid cameras are bulky, expensive film is limiting and it is more of a mission to post the pictures on Facebook. It seems ironic that what was once created from a desire for instant gratification, now with the revolution of digital cameras, seems tedious.

An iPhone application generates digital pictures in the Polaroid classic framed square format, but this lacks the appeal of physical photographs.

As more and more activities are carried out in a digital, virtual realm—reading books on e-readers, buying music online, sending emails—we have lost the palpable aspects of experience. The magic of taking a Polaroid snapshot is perhaps even more meaningful today.

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this month in history

Barbara Walters Anchors ABC News, Thomas Edison Dies, Infant Receives Baboon Heart Transplant and more

October 4, 1976

Barbara Walters First Woman to Co-anchor ABC News TV audiences watch on as Barbara Walters joins Harry Reasoner as the first woman to coanchor the ABC Evening News.

Though Walter was already a TV veteran (she spent fifteen years with NBC as a correspondent and co-host for The Today Show), her stint at ABC News wasn’t successful. Regardless, she forged on to become on of the most high-profile women in television broadcasting—a field traditionally dominated by men, even working on ABC’s weekly newsmagazine 20/20 from 1979 to 2004. Walters is renowned for doing whatever is takes to score an interview and has been up close and personal with countless world leaders and A-list celebrities including Fidel Castro, the Dalai Lama and Monica Lewinsky. She is also the co-host and co-creator of The View—a panel-style talk show featuring successful women of different ages and from various backgrounds who discuss the latest

news, deliver celebrity interviews and more.

October 12, 1971

Jesus Christ Superstar Opens Jesus Christ Superstar, the dynamic and groundbreaking rock opera by acclaimed writers Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber opens on Broadway at the Mark Hellinger Theatre, New York.

The production, which depicts the last seven days in Jesus of Nazareth’s life and particularly the conflict between him and his disciple Judas, opened in London the next year. Not a direct Biblical interpretation, Jesus is depicted as having human qualities—positive and negative—and after he’s crucified, there’s no resurrection.

This omission attracts some criticism for being blasphemous, but on the whole was perceived as making Christ’s death seem more poignant. The tale is enduring.

Originally released as a concept album, then transformed into a stage production it also made the big screen. In fact, the album’s release, a year prior to the show, was a clever ploy, as viewers

were already familiar with the tracks when it debuted almost concreting its success.

October 18, 1932

Thomas Edison Dies Prolific inventor Thomas Alva Edison dies at 84 in his West Orange, New Jersey home. In his lifetime, Edison acquired more than 1000 patents, inventing items that we rely on today, like the light bulb, the telephone and the motion picture camera.

Remarkably, Edison was slow to develop as a child and only began to speak when he was 4. As an adult, he proved to be a successful manufacturer and businessmen, marketing his inventions to the masses. What’s more, he was pragmatic about what he created, only inventing objects that would serve mankind for the better. “I never perfected an invention that I did not think about in terms of the service it might give others. I find out what the world needs, then I proceed to invent,” he said. At 9.59 pm on the day of his funeral all lights in the United States were dimmed

or extinguished for one minute to honour his memory.

October 26, 1984

Baby Fae Receives Baboon Heart Transplant A newborn girl known only as Baby Fae becomes the first infant to receive a baboon heart transplant.

Fae was born about three weeks premature suffering with hypoplastic left-heart syndrome—a fatal condition, which prevents the organ’s main pumping chamber, ventricle and aorta from developing.

Born on October 14 in Barstow, California, Baby Fae is moved to the Loma Linda University Medical Center shortly after, where the possibility of the operation is broached. Faced with little other choice her parents allow her to receive the heart of a 7-month-old female baboon. Four hours and five minutes after the operation Fae’s new heart begins to beat unaided.

Sadly though, Fae dies 20 days later when her body rejects the new tissue. The procedure creates a divide between advocates and proponents and especially angers animal rights activists.

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pub quiz Thoâng tin du lòch vaø vaên hoaù ôû Vieät Nam ASIALIFE HCMC Chòu traùch nhieäm xuaát baûn: Nguyeãn Thò Thanh Höông Bieân taäp: Nguyeãn Vónh Trung Söûa baûn in: Löu Thuûy Trình baøy: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Bìa: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy Nhaø XuaáT baûn toång hôïp TP. Hoà Chí MINH 62 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q1 ÑT: 38225340 – 38296764 – 38220405 – 38296713 – 38223637 Fax: 84.8.38222726 Email: tonghop@nxtphcm.com.vn Website:www.nxthcm.com.vn - www.fiditour.com

about town 6) HCM City’s nearly complete tallest building, the Bitexco Financial Tower, is meant to resemble whatobject from the natural world?

7) A statue of what historic figure presides above the circular Me Linh Square?

8) What three-word message was the young man writing on the cover of last month’s AsiaLIFE? 9) On which street would you find the Grall, an historic French hospital?

10) Ba Thang Hai Street is named for what date?

africa 11) Charles Taylor was president of which African country from 1997 to 2003?

12) Which country achieved its independence from Ethiopia in 1993 following a U.N.-monitored referendum?

13) Which country in Africa is completely surrounded by South Africa?

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sports 16) Which country finished 4th in this year’s FIFA World Cup? 17) Which city hosted the last Southeast Asian Games, held in 2009?

18) What type of sport is Bokator?

19) What will be played in Arlington Texas, on February 6th, 2011?

20) What sporting event takes place on 1st-3rd October at Celtic Manor, South Wales?

asean 21) Which is the smallest ASEAN country in terms of total area?

22) Which ASEAN country is the least populous?

23) Which city hosted the annual formal ASEAN summit earlier this year?

24) Which was the last country to join ASEAN? 25) What image is found in the middle of the ASEAN flag's red circle?

Thöïc hieän lieân keát xuaát baûn: Coâng ty TNHH QC TM DV Ba traêm saùu möôi laêm ngaøy In laàn thöù nhaát, soá löôïng 4000 cuoán, khoå 20,5cm x 27,0cm GPXB soá: 579-10/CXB/160-48/THTPHCM Ngaøy 16/06/2010 In taïi Coâng ty ITAXA, ñòa chæ 126 Nguyeãn Thò Minh Khai, Q.3.

In xong vaø noäp löu chieåu thaùng 10/ 2010 365 Days Advertising Trading Services Co.,Ltd L4,159 Phan Xich Long, P7, Phu Nhuan District Tel: +84 8 6674 3606 Director: Jonny Edbrooke jonny@threesixfive-days.com

Managing Editor: Tom DiChristopher tom@asialifehcmc.com

Deputy Editor: Beth Young beth@asialifehcmc.com

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world history 26) What conflict broke out between neighbouring countries on June 25, 1950?

27) Who succeeded Boris Yeltsin as president of Russia?

28) The Sherman tank made its debut during which 20thcentury war?

29) Sir John A. Macdonald was the first prime minister of what country?

30) The kingdom of the Visigoths was primarily located in what two modern European countries when it fell in the 8th century?

Senior Designer: April Hunt april@threesixfive-days.com

Art Director: Johnny Murphy johnny@threesixfive-days.com

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Pub Quiz Answers

1) The 1960 film The Misfits marked the final screen appearance of which pair of Hollywood icons?

2) Which two months of the year are named after Roman emperors?

3) Which television characters live at 62 West Wallaby Street, Wigan?

4) What are the names of the boys in the song “Two Little Boys”, popularised by Australian/British folk rocker Rolf Harris?

5) What notable woman worked as an au pair for Swedish proffessional golfer Jesper Parnevik?

14) Which is the largest African country in terms of total area?

15) What is the most populous country in Africa?

1) Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable 2) July and August. 3) Wallace and Grommit. 4) Jack and Joe 5) Elin Nordegren (the ex-Mrs Tiger Woods) 6) lotus petal 7) Tran Hung Dao 8) “I am me” 9) Ly Tu Truong 10) February 3 (Communist Party established in Vietnam) 11) Liberia 12) Eritrea 13) Lesotho 14) Sudan 15) Nigeria 16) Uruguay 17) Vientiane 18) Martial Art (fighting) 19) Super Bowl XLV 20) The Ryder Cup 21) Singapore 22) Brunei 23) Hanoi 24) Cambodia 25) 10 rice stalks 26) Korean War 27) Vladimir Putin 28) WWII 29) Canada 30) Spain and Portugal

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