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Creating value
Under the aegis of creativity The first prototype reproduces the exact forms and volumes of the actual jewel, also the tiny holes where the gems will be set
shape in the atelier, where the sketches by Chanel’s designers arrive and everything starts, at first in a three-dimensional computerised representation. The model, the first prototype of the structure, is then made to capture the volumes and lines, as well as the first tiny holes in which the gems will be set by the skilled hands of the jewellers. This orchestra is conducted by Chanel’s studio, which follows every step and ensures that the work is perfectly in tune with the standards of the Maison. The intimate essence, its very nature, is visible in the raw material. In its “nakedness”, the noble metal is stripped of the light and perfection that we are used to see. If we observe it long enough, we almost feel that we are violating its most sheltered secrets, the work and passion of those who master this ancient art and unaltered savoir-faire. The artisan’s craft is expressed also in the way in which the various components of the lion are made: by choosing to construct them separately, in fact, it will be easier for the gem setters to clothe a paw entirely in diamonds, reaching those corners which, if attached to the body, would make the operation much more complicated. The stones are set very close to one another, and the gold that separates them must be minimal and imperceptible to the eye.
The work of the master craftsman’s hands respect the forms and shapes that a wax mould defines. Respect is the key word. This is art. This is Chanel. When the raw material is polished, its essence begins to glisten. The gold abandons itself to the gestures of the artisan, who will then set the diamonds and gemstones to “dress” the lion according to the creativity of Chanel. At the end of the process, the separate pieces of the lion are assembled: the feline takes shape, and appears in all its majesty. The result is the Sous le Signe du Lion collection, 58 pieces that play on the variations of the lion theme. Timeless elegance to be contemplated in white and yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires, onyx and rock crystal. And the blue lapis lazuli on which a lion has been sculpted, resting on a star of yellow diamonds, and a white diamond set in the middle. A ring conceived to adorn a hand, which at the same time tells the story of the lion on the façade of the Basilica in Venice’s Piazza San Marco, to the restoration of which Chanel gave its contribution. So once again we return to the city that inspired Coco Chanel and made her dream. That dream now belongs to every lady, and it came true in an atelier set in the heart of Paris.
Above, Lion Solaire earrings in yellow and white gold with garnets, beryllium, sapphires and diamonds. Top left, the Piraeus Lion at the Venetian Arsenal; right, setting diamonds in the Constellation du Lion brooch. The lions of Chanel’s haute joaillerie collection are made in a goldsmith’s workshop in the centre of Paris. (www.chanel.com)
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