Arts & Crafts & Design N°1

Page 82

82

Enterprises

“We believe that the key of it all is to pass on our know-how: that’s why we train many young”

In the festive season we feel a growing desire and gratification in enjoying our own spaces, to live our home as a private and cosy refuge. A place where we feel comfortable, surrounded by our objects and rituals. Objects that represent a familiar scenery: vases, glasses, tea sets, chandeliers. And where do they come from, these small crystal wonders, in their game of light and colour that master craftsmen create to arouse the admiration of our guests? For crystalware, we could try a plausible answer: all the main crystal manufacturers in Europe are located in the same French region, Lorraine, rich in water, sand and wood, the raw materials needed for the production of glass in the beginning and later on for crystal by now world-renowned glassmakers, such as Baccarat, Daum, Lalique or the oldest of all, Saint-Louis. The latter has recently experienced a period of rebirth, also thanks to the relaunch brought about by Hermès Group, that acquired it in 1989, believing in the strength of its history and heritage. Established in 1586, it was purchased as “Royal Glassworks” in 1767 because King Louis XV wanted to compete with the most famous glassworks of that time, located in Murano,

Bohemia and England. 150 years ago Saint-Louis imposed the fashion of crystal table services, chandeliers and candelabra, choosing ruby red as its signature colour. Multi-coloured bottles for precious perfumes and delicate opaline vases decorated the noble houses of the period. Saint-Louis increased its fame also because it created a small fashionable object: the crystal paperweight ball. In the 20th century Art Nouveau inspired the maison’s new designs, while the Thirties witnessed the launch of the Art Deco line, characterised by transparencies and geometric cut motives. In the Fifties, modernism gave rise to new insiprations, like the Stella service, designed to reflect light through a prismatic play. At the end of the 20th century SaintLouis inaugurated the production of crystals with a contemporary design, side by side to its historical production. From the Bubble collection, designed by Teleri Ann Jones in 1992, to the 2012 collections signed by José Lévy and Laurence Brabant, the manufacture decided to follow two policies: invest in the co-operation with designers and in a future focused on creativity while passing on its tradi-

AUTHOR’S GEOMETRIES Above, the amethyst roemer seen from above, Tommy collection (1928). Top, working of the molten glass and manufacture of the paperweight with the “Millefiori” technique. Opposite, red cocktail glass by Saint-Louis manufacturer, France.

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