We a v i n g w o n d e r s
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E VALENCIA CELEBRATES THE TRADITIONAL FALLAS WITH A KALEIDOSCOPE OF FIREWORKS AND SILKS
by Federica Cavriana photos by Manuel Scrima
A VENERABLE CUSTOM Above, a precious espolı´n is woven on a 19th-century loom at Rafael Catalá, founded 244 years ago.
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Every year Valencia celebrates Saint Joseph with the Fallas, a joyful and captivating explosion of spectacular pyrotechnics, music and song. The patron of carpenters is honoured by painters, sculptors and artesans falleros who work for months to prepare the fallas, enormous and grotesque mise-en-scènes that parody current events and on which gigantic figures, the Ninots, are crammed. The masters of the fireworks elaborate new combinations of light, explosions and colours for the many afternoon performances of the mascletá and for the great fireworks held on the closing night, between 18 and 19 March, called La nit del foc (the Night of Fire). And specialised artisans put their experience at the disposal of the Falleras Mayores, the stars of the celebrations and queens of the city for the whole year. The fallera mayor is appointed among the women called to represent each neighbourhood (known as falleras), whereas the fallera mayor infantil is elected among the children. Jewels, combs, charms, embroidered socks and sumptuous dresses, all inspired by ancient costumes, are created for them by hand. The gowns of the mayores are made in lustrous silks, hand-woven in an infinite variety of colours and adorned with the finest decorations, echoing those of the 18th and 19th centuries. The precious silks that symbolise Valentia and the Fallas have a very long history. The secrets of silk production were brought by the Arabs, who ruled in the 8th century, and silk became a vital part of the region’s manufacturing activity. In the 15th century, known as the Siglo de Oro or golden century, new weaving techniques were introduced by immigrant velvet makers from Genoa. The guild of velvet makers, eventually of silk makers, was founded in 1494 and was based in the newly established Colegio del arte mayor de la seda, the College of silk art, today a historical archive. Business transactions were conducted in the shade of the majestic arcades of the silk exchange, the Lonja de la seda, which bears witness, with its flamboyant gothic style, to the importance of silk commerce in this period. The great beauty and significance of the building has earned UNESCO World Heritage status. After a period of recession triggered by competition from other cities such as Toledo and Seville, which were favoured by the Spanish Court, Valencia’s silk found new prosperity in the 18th century, when the Bourbons brought the latest fashions from Versailles with them. Valencia managed to exploit these contaminations, creating silks with iconographic motifs of outstanding beauty and realism, embroidered with roses, daisies and lilies in elegant hues. It grew to become one of the most highly acclaimed silk production districts, giving work to no less than 25,000 people. Today, the decorations and patterns of the 18th century inspire the indumentaristas, the dressmaker-designers who create Valencia’s incredible traditional gowns. Time has changed many things, including the fact that these dresses are not ordered by the nobility any more,
10/03/14 20:19