armour. SPRING 2014
armourmag.tumblr.com
“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life. To do away with fashion would be like doing away with civilization.� - Bill Cunningham.
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in this issue Tune in with the armour staff
12 Styles & Spaces
Fashion in the Art World Abroad in Florence Berry Lips
High Fashion Advertisements
14 Streetwear as Sportswear 18 Religious Iconography in Fashion 19 Tales of the Leather Industry 20 Style Profile: Diana Zeng 21 On Sight
23 East v. West:
Style Rivalry
36 Alter Ego
28 Raw Denim 34 Food Prints 42
DIY or DYE
29 Blue Valentine
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armour.
Editors-in-Chief Neha Nair Lily Sullivan Editors Charlotte Jones Grant Phillips Priyanka Reddy
Director of Layout Becca Shuman Director of Photography Bonner Williams Directors of Blog Leah Nordman Stefani Rey Carla Steppan Layout Team Dean Chang Lexi Copithorne Deborah Koh Nikolai Laba Shelby Lindblad Alix Marson Casey Merber Jacqueline Pifer Dan Raggs Tori Sgarro
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Director of Social Media Paulina Gallagher
Photographers Hannah Blumer Justin Ho Taylor Ohman
Founders Jacob Lenard Felicia Podberesky Chantal Strasburger
Contributors Amanda Bass Sarah Mae Ettinger Tayler Geiger Lillian Lee Aviva Mann Haley Moore Catalina Ouyang Chelsea Velaga
letter from the editors It’s hard to believe that Armour has been around for two years already. With a constantly changing staff (shoutout to our founders, Chantal, Jacob, and Felicia, who are currently spreading Armour vibes in the real world, and to Camil and Sarah, our editors-in-chief on hiatus as they conquer new parts of the world), we try to keep Armour fresh, especially for our spring issue. The word “edgy” was tossed around many times while putting together the spring issue of Armour. That lipstick needs to be darker—more edgy! Make the title more edgy. We have to style this editorial… edgily? The concept of ‘edginess’ in this issue is not just the staff’s backlash against the floral frilliness of conventional spring styles. Rather, it is an attempt to capture the wide range of influences on how we dress. Let’s start with Saint Louis weather. Honestly, none of us would even be surprised if the polar vortex paid another visit in the middle of March. Prancing around in sundresses and shorts? Not a chance. Leather and denim is the move, as seen in the Blue Valentine and Alter Ego editorials. Want a more in depth perspective on denim and/ or leather? On page 19 check out Catalina’s investigation of the underground leather industry in Italy. Denim lovers ought to read up on Raw Denim as described by Tayler Geiger on page 34. So aside from the weather, what else drives our style choices? This Spring, Armour is really pushing music as a primary source of style inspiration. In some ways, you could consider this our first ever music issue. From our on-location shoot at Vintage Vinyl, to the editorial inspired by Lily’s favorite Yoncé, to ski masks popularized by Kanye West, to Armour’s very own spring soundtrack, you will find many references to the music world in the following pages. The intersection of music and fashion is an important one. It may be a synesthetic connection, but there is something so natural about how music translates to style. Finally, in this issue we hope to highlight one of the main sources of style inspiration: hometown. We had several stylish Wash U students throw down for their hometowns in a coastal battle between East and West on page 23. There are many places where one can find inspiration for style and unfortunately we couldn’t represent them all in the 44 pages that comprise this issue. But Armour is constantly striving to expand its scope on Wash U’s campus and beyond, so be sure to check out our revitalized blog, at armourmag.tumblr.com, which relaunches this month! And as always, Get your Armour on,
P.S. A huge thank you to Vintage Vinyl and Courtesy Diner for allowing us to invade their space temporarily for an on-location shoot!
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in with the Armour Staff Illustrations by Neha Nair This season welcomes several new members to the Armour staff, and what better way to introduce them to the readership than to reveal their music tastes? We went around to Armour contributors and asked them their current favorite song: old, new, guilty pleasure, anything, and everything that has been playing on repeat. The results are in and we now present you with this series of Armour mixtapes!
Neha Nair: Montreal by Roosevelt Lily Sullivan: Partition by BeyoncĂŠ Charley Jones: Doses and Mimosas (Noah Hyde Remix) by Cherub Grant Phillips: San Francisco by Foxygen Priyanka Reddy: Buzzcut Season by Lorde
Becca Shuman: San Francisco by The Mowglis Leah Nordman: Falling by Haim Stefani Rey: Pound Cake by Drake Carla Steppan: Trick or Treat Dancefloor by Cherry Glazerr
Aviva Mann: Landfill by Daughter Taylor Ohman: My Girl by The Temptations
Hannah Blumer: Angel by Shaggy Paulina Gallagher: Beta Love by Ra Ra Riot Bonner Williams: First Day of My Life (Bright Eyes Cover) by Jesse Daniel Smith
FA S H I O N I N T H E A R T W O R L D written by amanda bass | image from vogue.com
With the success of the Diane Von Furstenberg “Journey of a Dress” exhibit, which celebrates the 40th anniversary of Furstenberg’s iconic wrap dress, the question is, what’s all the buzz about? The dresses are beautiful, but they are all relatively similar silhouette, just different iterations of the classic design, varying in terms of vacillating hemlines and sleeve lengths and an array of wild patterns. So why has the exhibit become so popular? Why is there all this excitement over an exhibit featuring 200 similar dresses? After all, can’t you just go to Saks or Bloomingdales if you really must see a DVF dress in person? First of all, the wrap dress is more than just a garment. It is innovative, it is iconic and it is the essence of the DVF brand. Yes, the exhibit celebrates the wrap dress, but, more so, it celebrates its place in fashion and in our culture over all. It blends fashion with pop-culture and art, and the exhibit reflects that. So, A trip to the DVF exhibit surely is not the same as a trip to the DVF section of your local department store. DVF is not the first well-known designer to have a curated exhibit full of her most noteworthy garments. No, it is a growing trend in museums across the country (around the world even!) to boast displays of designer clothing of past and present. People flock to these exhibits because everyone can relate to fashion. Fashion is personal. When you get dressed in the morning, you are reflecting your personality, or what you want people to think of you, or who you want to be. Fashion places the individual within a larger cultural
context, and, of course, fashion is fun. At the very least, designer garments are something to drool at in magazines. (Admit it, you’ve had that dream of the fairy tale moment of twirling around in a princess-like, Oscar de la Renta gown.) In that case, such exhibits are like 3-D magazine editorials, where the clothes jump out of the pages of Vogue and are placed directly in front of you. Think of such exhibits as giant fashion shows where the guest list is endless and you are always invited! You no longer have to be Anna Wintour or Cathy Horyn to see a display of the masterful works of DVF or Miuccia Prada or Alexander McQueen in person. These exhibits make fashion accessible for everyone and anyone who wants to partake in the experience. So, even if you might not be able to drop a few hundred dollars on an iconic DVF wrap dress, you can go to the DVF 40th anniversary exhibit and ogle the exuberant patterns and timeless style. Intrigued? The DVF “Journey of a Dress” exhibit is on display now until April 1st at the Wilshire May Company Building in Los Angeles, CA. Spring break plans? I think yes. Or, check out the A Queen Within: Adorned Archetypes, Fashion and Chess exhibit on display now at the World Chess Hall of Fame right here in St. Louis! Or, if you find yourself in New York City between May 8th and August 10th, stop by the Charles James: Beyond Fashion exhibit on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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Florence, Italy
Ciao from Italia!
Although I was sad to leave Armour this semester, I am glad I have so many stories to share with our readers. As I am sure you can imagine, Florence is filled with fashion – in fact it is the home of the first ever fashion show (how cool is that?!). Since that show in 1951, Florentines have made it a point to make even the sidewalks here (narrow as they may be) into everyday runways. You will never see someone going to Il Centro (the supermarket) in yoga pants, and often you actually see stiletto boots in the vegetable aisle. Style here is very unique - Florentines create their own trends and stick to them religiously. In addition, men and women’s styles overlap constatnly. A few current trends include, slouchy beanie hats, cropped cargo pants, camo-print anything, snedges and wild-printed tights or leggings. But, the most important trend which never goes out of style in Florence is leather on leather. As home to the some of the finest leather goods produced worldwide, Florentines take their leather seriously. From coats to shoes, backpacks to dogcoats (yes, really), outrageous amounts of leather is always on trend here. However, my favorite part of the Florentine fashion experience thus far has been the unbelievable vintage and market culture that surrounds the city. Whether I go looking for it or not, I am innundated by vintage clothing, antiques, fresh food, handmade jewelry and much more. In the city center alone there are over 25 vintage stores and seven markets. Their contents have served both as inspiraiton for my own designs and as a wonderful addition to my wardrobe. I can’t wait to get back to Armour in the fall and hopefully bring some European fashion sense with me! 8 By: Sarah Ettinger
Berry Lips to Cherry You up! Wintertime can feel like it’s dragging on forever, and there is only so much we can do to tear ourselves from our warm beds and into the chilly air. However, you can cheer up your look by indulging in some bright colors to invite in the springtime. This look, inspired by gorgeous spring colors, focuses on beautiful berry lips and a soft gray smoky eye, perfect for a date, special outing, or an everyday look, just to brighten your day and bring in the warm spring weather.
the Face After creating a softly natural canvas (I’d suggest BB cream), dust a soft plum blush over the cheekbones for a softly chiseled flush (Hourglass Ambient Lighting Blush). Highlight the top of the cheekbones with a bright champagne highlighter (theBalm Mary Lou Manizer) and softly contour the area under the cheekbones with a matte bronzer (Bronzer from Urban Decay Flushed palette). The brow shape for this look is fuller with minimal arch, so use a brow pencil or in this case, a brow gel and an angled brow brush to shape the brows (Make Up For Ever Aqua Brow).
the eyes Start by applying a luminous warm medium gray shade across the lids (Selfish shade from Nudetude palette by theBalm). Gently buff a medium dark gray eye shadow (Pistol shade from Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette) in the outer crease area of the lid, blending the color to deepen the crease and bringing the shade halfway across the crease line, stopping above the iris of the eye. Take a matte black shade and dab the color in the outer corner of the eye to deepen the area (Blackout shade from Urban Decay Naked 2 Palette). Highlight the inner corner of the eye with a sheer champagne shade, dabbing the shade on the center of the lid as well (theBalm Mary Lou Manizer). Line the eyes with a matte navy blue pencil eyeliner (Urban Decay 24/7 Glide On Eyeliner in Sabbath), drawing closely along the lash line and flicking out ever so slightly at the outer wing to elongate the eyes. Curl the lashes and apply volumizing mascara (Lancôme Hypnose Drama Waterproof Mascara).
the Lips By LiLLian Lee PhotograPhy By Justin Ho
Berry is a beautiful color that’s between a bright magenta and a deeper plum color that will brighten up the face, and can make the teeth appear whiter. Apply the color (Em Cosmetics Lip Gallery Matte Lipstick in Passion Berries) with a lip brush for more precision, sharply lining the edge of the lips for a clean application and filling in the lips. Clean up the edge with concealer, and you’re done! Have fun with this cheery look!
Pretty Ugly: The Evolution of High Fashion Advertisements Written by Charlotte Jones When I look at the infamous whitewashed Marc Jacobs advertisements that infiltrate every major magazine, several questions come to mind. The first is; “was this taken with a disposable camera?” and a close second; “was the styling editor on mescaline?” Yet over time I have developed a fondness for the quirky, austere ads, especially as the harsh styling has spread to countless luxury brands and their own print advertisements. It is hard to encapsulate the specific “je ne sais quoi” of these ads, but I have done my best by appropriating Tyra Banks’ infamous expression of, “pretty ugly.” No, this phrase does not mean the subject is ugly; instead, “pretty ugly” means that something can be perceived as traditionally unappealing, yet when cast under a fashionable label – is deemed attractive. Today designers ranging from Chanel to Saint Laurent are incorporating this styling trend into their ad campaigns by taking away eyebrows, eradicating mascara, slicking back hair and blanching skin. Yet a decade prior one could not find such ads when flipping through Vogue. Ads were softer and further romanticized. The models interacted with one another and acknowledged each other’s presence in the spread compared to modern day Gucci ads where each individual is a singular entity. Today smiles are continually replaced with fierce expressions, defined jaw lines and pointed stares. But why? Fashion Advertising exploded in the 19th century due to rapid increases in magazine advertising, direct mail catalogues, and the inception of a little magazine named Vogue. With Condé Nast’s guidance magazine advertising transformed into the premier strategy of marketing luxurious brands to the social elite. Beautiful models and scenic locations replaced the paragraphs of text and sketches of apparel found in early ads. Brands started to focus on incorporating experiences with their merchandise and creating consumer aspirations and illusions. The Panic of 1892 spurred magazine editors, especially Harper’s Bazaar’s, to embrace the large profit margins of advertising, which enabled the magazines to be sold
It is harder and harder to find a brand that is not pursuing the power of “pretty ugly” at a rate less than production, yet still enjoy large gains produced by selling ad space within their pages. It is clear today that that trend has continued. In 1911 Vogue had 51 pages of advertisements, in 1950, 131 pages and 2002, a whopping 574. The advertisement industry locked step with technological innovation as they swapped film for digital, outside light for studio produced, and natural bodies for photo shopped. Each brand wanted to have the ad campaign of the season: the one that delighted, surprised and disrupted peoples’ expectations of what fashion meant. That’s where “pretty ugly” comes into play. The 1990’s and 2000’s saw a full immersion of the phrase, “Sex Sells.” Fashion advertisements turned into body analyses and women were objectively objectified. Take a look at this winter’s edition of Vogue. Will you find these kinds of ads? Undoubtedly. But for every one like that, you will find an ad like Marc Jacobs’ – androgynous and powerful. While not every brand will pursue the “unkemptness” that personifies Jacobs’, it is harder and harder to find a brand that is not pursuing the power of “pretty ugly.” There are arguably multiple theories for why fashion advertisements have traded softness for strident, and while advertisements that depict women as powerful can still be demeaning, it will be interesting to track how the “pretty ugly” phenomenon unfolds – as a revolution or a fad.
From top right clockwise: Marc Jacobs 2012, Saint Laurent 2013, Gucci 1991, Chanel 1991.
Styles & Spaces written by: aviva mann photography by: paulina gallagher
gwen unger Tucked away on Wash Ave is the bright and welcoming home of Gwen Unger and Megan Odenthal. Curious to hear their insights on achieving the perfect space, the Armour team braved the cold, entered their warm abode, and inquired about what elements of design are important to them. What were your fields of study? Gwen: Latin America studies with Art as a minor Megan: Anthropology with a masters in Social Work What is your favorite place to find home furnishings? Gwen: Treasures Aisles Antique Mall, I get everything there. Megan: Goodwill. I think goodwill has a really good social mission and I want my dollars to go somewhere that I agree with. What is the most important aspect of creating a space? Gwen: I think it has to be comfortable and reflect you as an individual. A big thing for me is putting up pictures of people I love. And blankets and pillows. Megan: Finding a balance between functional and sentimental, reflecting the kind of life you want to live.
How does your sense of fashion play a role in the creation of your space? Gwen: I like to have collage-y, mismatched prints. Megan: I love traveling and learning new things. So if I were to say I have a fashion sense it would be centered on that: travel and a creation of stories. (Gwen: Megan says she doesn’t have a fashion sense but she pulls stuff off that no one can, and it’s effortless) Megan: I would like to talk about my house plants. Gwen: She likes the plants more than she likes me. Megan: I like nurturing them. They bring life and peace to my space. Gwen: If you come into the apartment and Megan is alone she is most likely talking to the plants. Megan: Not true. What piece best represents your “self?” Megan: My teepee. It’s more whimsical and less functional. Gwen: My record player or the oven, because I like to cook. I’m either in my room or the kitchen, obviously the bathroom too, but we don’t need to highlight that.
megan odenthal
What songs can you not get enough of right now? Megan: Lorde. The whole album, start to finish, on loop. I’ve also never stopped listening to Simon and Garfunkel. And Pete Seeger because he just died. He was a big part of my childhood. He’s kind of a hippie activist… “I believe the world can be saved by a million little things.” Gwen: I’ve been listening to new Kings of Leon and John Legend, “Stay with you,” especially. Who is your favorite clothing designer? Gwen: Most of my stuff is from Urban because I work there. I really love Nordstrom Rack. Also in New Jersey where I live, there is this huge vintage wholesale outlet that I love. Megan: Gwen, Sara, and Alix’s closet…I made a resolution to only buy things from thrift stores. So I’ve been doing that.
Megan: We always have people over because Gwen is always cooking. Gwen: I have a Jewish grandmother. I need to feed people. Megan: That’s my favorite part about it—we always have people filling our space. There is a strong sense of community in this building, centered around food. And your favorite kitchen appliance? Gwen: Toaster oven. I do love blenders because I love gazpacho. I like cooking by taste. Single favorite food? Megan: Kale! Gwen: Empanadas. Either our fridge is stocked with food or it’s only condiments, alcohol, and grains.
If you had an unlimited amount of money and could redo your space what would you do? Megan: I would knock down the walls, have it be more open, get some exposed brick going. And make one room into a green house. Gwen: I would love a working fireplace and more windows. I want to build myself a patio with a garden or go onto the roof and have a rooftop garden.
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Sportswear as Streetwear
By Aviva Mann Photography by Paulina Gallagher
Vintage Baseball Tee.
Favorite Sneaks.
Support your team in style–vintage style sports shirts add a unique sense of self to any outfit. Channel your inner sports fan while rocking the athletic trend.
Whether you prefer Chuck Taylors or a roughed-up pair of Vans, you can’t go wrong with sneakers. These staples prove a surprisingly good finish to an outfit–reconsider next time you pull out your lace-up boots.
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Letterman Jacket. This jacket is not restricted to just a football jock’s closet. Pair this throwback piece with less athletic statements like denim overalls to counteract its bold look. Check out thrift stores or your brother’s closet to score one of these pieces.
Bright Gym Hoodie. Adding a bright pop of color to any outfit, a zip-up hoodie can be worn to the gym without embarrassing yourself on the way there.
Harem Sweatpants.
Workout Leotard.
They’re like sweatpants and skinny jeans in one article of clothing. Who wouldn’t want the benefits of each? Flattering and comfortable. Try H&M or Urban Outfitters for affordable options.
Our model sports (pun intended) a 90s-inspired exercise bodysuit under a sheer top, surprising the eye. Check out American Apparel.
CRUCIFIXATION
Written by Haley Moore Photos from style.com and theFashionSpot
Is fashion’s obsession with religious iconography sinful?
In the 1360’s, Henry Suso, a German friar, claimed that those who wore the name of Christ on his or her clothing would be treated well by God in death. He urged followers of Christ to literally wear signs of their devotion, at a time when this was far from an insane suggestion. Nearly 700 years later, after a World War when wearing the emblem of your religion could very well lead to death, we suddenly find ourselves in shock at any trace of religious iconography in the fashion world. Nicki Minaj created the latest stir in the news when she arrived at the Grammys in a Versace gown with the most unlikely of accessories: The Pope. Of course, Francis wasn’t the one gracing her side, but this stand-in had almost the same uproar that the real Pope might have caused. Later, she went on to sing Roman Holiday, a theatrical performance about the exorcism of her alter ego, Roman Zolanski. Was it offensive for Minaj to use inaccurate and exaggerated aspects of the sect? What if she had shown Islamic or Jewish imagery in the same way? It would have been difficult for her to perform. It is too hard to portray the complexity of an entire religion through a single image. Oversimplification often leads to offensive and prejudicial representations. Why was she able to poke fun at Catholicism? Dolce & Gabbana’s FW13 collection: Mosaics, offers a more neutral display of Catholic imagery. Featuring the Byzantine artwork of Duomo Monreale in Sicily, the designers idealized Catholic images. Dolce & Gabanna created a softer picture of Catholicism when compared to the one painted by the Church’s media scandals of the past few years. Their garments displayed images of Jesus, Mary and other Biblical personas, but they didn’t cause uproar because there really wasn’t a single clear message. Instead, the garments paid homage to the beautifully decorated chapel by focusing on rich gold and cardinal reds, patterns and design work, and on luxurious jewels. By doing this however, the icons took on another meaning. The images evoked a feeling of gross luxury, not too far removed from the concept of indulgences, which made the Catholic Church rich beyond belief back in the day of Martin Luther. It seems as though religion can never quite find its way into fashion without stirring trouble for someone in the audience, but are fashion designers and artists like Nicki Minaj responsible for reigning in their artistic expression? They might have lost some fans (D&G, I’m assuming, lost fewer than Nicki), but at a time when cultural appropriation and cultural exchange are often confused, it is sometimes hard to say what is truly hateful. It’s a thin line that many artists are more than willing to cross. Whether it’s for political, personal, financial, or moral reasons, designers and celebrities alike want to call something into question, which in turn causes conversation. Ideally there is some aspect of respect in representing a different culture. Not everyone has to agree with each other, but expression does have the possibility of highlighting new, and mindful, perspectives and this should not be overlooked.
Pronto Moda:
Tales from the Dark Underbelly of the Leather Industry
By Catalina Ouyang
When Calvin and I decided to take a bus to an industrial complex allegedly called Ingromarket, about half an hour outside Florence, we were looking for some backpack buckles and straps to be used in his paintings. We didn’t know that Ingromarket was not, in fact, a wholesale store but rather a loose term for the industrial neighborhood surrounding Ikea; and I didn’t know that it was en route to Prato, the site of what has been called Italy’s biggest human trafficking problem.
It was eerily like stepping back into my childhood, spending summers in China some years before their accelerated economic boom. It was fluorescent-lit quarters wrapped in an atmosphere of candid exploitation, in street and building construction, in restaurants, in massage parlors and spas; and these were just the visible service positions. I never thought twice about it in my youth. That was simply the culture there, an influx of interchangeable bodies for cheap labor.
One of my professors describes Florence as “gilded in leather.” Never minding the incorrect use of the term “gilded,” she’s right—everywhere you go there are leather goods being hawked, from high-end designer stores to street cart vendors. I suppose the average traveler is aware, or should be, that the touristic veneer a city presents harbors a less-than-idyllic backstory. It would make sense that the astonishing proliferation of leather and textile goods in Florence is drawn from some dubious sources; a lot of consumer items are, everywhere, these days.
Now that culture was recalled uncannily in the leather bag shops near Prato. In our search for the backpack stuff, we went through about five of these identical buildings, all manufacturing the same types of bags in the same way. While we were there, Calvin and I caught what I’m sure is just a superficial glimpse of the labor behind the goods. It was the glossy side, which is funny to say because there wasn’t much that was glossy about the interiors of those industrial buildings; but the shops were open to the public, and there were Mercedes and Audis parked in the lots. These workshop stalls might be the success stories, people who had made it out or had it good from the start.
After getting off the bus, Calvin and I did not find Ingromarket because it would seem it technically doesn’t exist. What we did find was an abundance of street and storefront signs in both Italian and Chinese, and a number of what might be called leather bag shops. These were industrial buildings with rows of similar-looking stalls, each featuring walls lined with spools of thread and finished leather bags, from clutches to duffels, and a setup of three to eight sewing machines with people working at each. Half-finished bags were tossed in piles on the ground in assembly line fashion. I couldn’t quite figure out if this was a place people actually came to purchase leather bags. I also couldn’t figure out if we were supposed to be in there spectating. Heads turned as Calvin and I made our way through. No words were exchanged, but I recognized the Mandarin the workers spoke to each other, as well as some distinctive clothing choices from the homeland: kawaii hairclips, T-shirts with age-inappropriate graphics, bright-colored puffy down jackets, etc.
Within this web of cultural aggression, human rights violations and legal evasion, my brief foray to Ingromarket is a slim, perhaps only tangentially-related echo of a far larger, complex phenomenon. Probably it’s not entirely prudent to contextualize Prato’s situation in my trivial experience, and I feel I owe an apology but I’m not sure to whom. Calvin and I eventually found the backpack straps in a wholesale supply warehouse, where I used my limited Mandarin to haggle for a good deal since neither of us had a good grasp of Italian. Afterwards, we went to the Ikea and got some two-euro pizza. Then we waited for our bus back to Florence, where we would return to spectating on the leather goods and well-tailored, affordably-priced clothes. Pronto moda.
To read the full version of Catalina’s story, visit armourmag.tumblr.com
diana zeng [STYLE PROFILE]
YEAR: Junior HOMETOWN: Boston, MA MAJOR: Marketing MINOR: Studio Art
On a brisk Friday morning I met Diana Zeng in the ever-bustling Cafe Bergson. The dual business and art school student had just returned from brunch with her friends and was clad in colored floral jeans, black studded boots, a grey knit sweater, and a heavy East Asian-style necklace that she later mentioned had been passed down from her family. Armed with a hot coffee and an empty notebook, she and I quickly began discussing everything from her clothing to her cooking. In her third year at WashU, Diana Zeng appears to have truly found her individual style. As illustrated by her many unique stylistic traits, she understands the importance of knowing your own body and personal style before blindly following the popular trends of the industry. With a continuously evolving fashion sense and an insightful outlook on individual style, there was not a question in my mind as to why Diana was chosen to be this season’s Armour featured style profile.
Interview and Photos by: Taylor Ohman
How Would You Describe Your Style? If I’m running late, my “go to” outfit is a pair of printed jeans, a sweater, some fun necklaces, and a cute pair of boots. I try not to follow or pay attention to the latest fashion trends because I know sometimes things just wont look good on me. Some things I wear like floral jeans and platform sneakers were once a trend, and I’m not sure when they started or ended, but I like them and I will continue to wear them. The people whose style I admire don’t follow trends but wear things that make sense on them; that’s their style and that’s what it’s going to be. I don’t like to think about the image I portray; I just try to wear things I like. What Would You Say Is The Most Unique Aspect Of Your Style? My boyfriend, Sam, got cancer last semester so I decided to shave my head with his two brothers on his first day of chemo. I actually wanted to shave my whole head but Sam said that I had to have hair if he couldn’t! I just never wanted him to feel like he was going into this alone. And truly, it’s been a life adventure. This may sound surpris-
ing, but there’s still happiness every day and smiling still comes easy. Do You Feel That Your Individual Style Has Evolved Since You Came To Wash U? I remember being in high school and thinking what I wore at the time was really cool, with my weird wedges, weird skirts, and weird dresses. Now I look at pictures and think “mm maybe not”, but you know, I’m happy I wore it anyways. As I’ve gotten older, I choose a lot more things I think I could wear a few years from now too. Sometimes I try to look a little classier but then there are also times when I just want to wear something I bought from Goodwill. I’m no longer picking things in the spur of the moment, but choosing things I would genuinely love to wear for a long time. I never was the girl who needed the black dress or the staple items but as I’ve gotten more comfortable with my style, I feel like I can wear the classics but still be able to mix it up a bit. Where Are Your Favorite Shopping Spots? In college it’s hard because you’re on a student budget, but I actually
love thrift stores and places like Marshalls and Nordstrom Rack where I can get good deals. Thrift stores have everything from more rustic type accessories to designer pieces. I’m not the type of person who minds digging around for a few hours. I also love to buy things while I’m on vacation because you find pieces that you wouldn’t see anywhere else. For example, while I was on vacation in Saint Maarten, I bought a great tribal patterned two-piece that was really authentic looking. Are There Any Special Places In St. Louis You Enjoy Going To? I love going to random Asian markets on Olive where I can buy little treats that remind me of home and my favorite restaurant, Addie’s Thai House because they know how to make things spicy. I also enjoy cooking so sometimes I’ll take my friends to Soulard’s farmers market or Bissinger’s on Central West End for chocolate. Before I graduate, I also want to make it up to the roof of the Moonrise and go to the Ozark Mountains because I love being outdoors and hiking.
By Leah Nordman
O
n days where the temperature dips below freezing and you free like your nose is about to freeze off, its easy to question just how socially unacceptable it would be to wear a ski mask. While practical, the thought of walking down the street rocking your favorite ski mask seems utterly absurd and would be horrifying to any passer-by. Until recently, ski masks have been reserved for criminals and, well, skiers, but largely due Maison Martin Margiela and their collaboration with Kanye West, they have become pieces of high fashion. The bedazzled masks first appeared in the Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2013 Couture Show. Every model’s face was covered by a full mask fit over the models entire head made from black gauze that allowed the models to see through but left the viewer with nothing but glittering patterns where a face should be. Across cultures and generations masks have been used to hide or create a new identity. This seems especially poignant in a fashion industry so obsessed with beauty and fame. While many designers have tried to strip models of individuality through makeup and hair, the Margiela masks take this idea further by sending out models stripped of all personalityor humanity.
collaboration consists of twenty ready to wear pieces, an “exclusive” pair of trainers, and the four one of a kind masks. One studded, one tiled, one mirrored resembling a disco ball, and one embellished with jewels. By covering his face for almost the entire concert, Kanye, an artist both hated and beloved for his ego, has sparked conversation from both fans and critics. In both the album and tour, Kanye proudly proclaims himself as “God” or even something beyond God or Jesus, which he calls Yeezus. For some, the masks reflect Kanye’s “look not upon the face of Yeezus mere mortals” arrogance but others view the masks as a kind of prop that is both theatrical and useful. For fans sitting in the last rows of the auditorium the masks provide a visual spectacle far greater than a blurry face. West himself has even said that the masks allow him to perform better instead of being worried how he will be photographed, saying, “When I don’t have the mask I have to worry about, is my face the right way for the camera? Cos I don’t want them to get the wrong shot . . .”
Ideas of fame and identity also relate to Margiela’s latest collaboration with Kanye West for his outfits on his Yeezus tour. The Images from The Telegraph, Interview, kanyewest.com
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Beyond the tour Kanye has begun wearing the masks at appearances and in the cover story for Interview Magazine. The masks have even been worn by Kanye’s “perfect bitch” Kim Kardashian in her CR fashion book editorial. While West has adopted the masks, it seems unlikely that the ski masks will become fashion’s latest trend. But if you ever are confronted with a bedazzled mask walking down the street, don’t immediately dial 911— it may just be a high fashion lover or even Yeezus himself.
There’s something in the water, more specifically the oceans, that’s causing a deepseated love for ones hometown. Maybe it’s fitting that the heart of the Midwest serves as a battleground for personalities and styles hailing from either coast. Although these rivalries don’t compare to that of Tupac and Biggie, we set out to showcase these students’ stomping grounds.
Darcie Reisler Sophomore New York, NY
Sam Hake Sophomore Los Angeles, CA
Photography by: Hannah Blumer
Ishi Metkar Sophomore The Bronx, NY
Mitch Mechigian Sophomore Portland, OR
Lisa Valverde Junior Baltimore, MD
Chloe Karmin Sophomore Los Angeles, CA
Jenica Wang Freshman Cupertino, CA
Gabe Dash Sophomore Brooklyn, NY
Ella Young Freshman Pasadena, CA
Lucas Page Senior New York, NY
Lexi Orsky Freshman Underhill, VT
DeeDee Pearce Sophomore San Fransico, CA
Matthew Mayfield Freshman Greenwich, CT
DIY DYE or
with Lily Sullivan
All that glitters... There is no such thing as too much gold. Spruce up your apartment with easy-tomake, fabulous to have DIY gold vases and bottles!
what you'll need:
Assorted glass bottles / bowls (whatever you can think of!)
Newspaper
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Metallic spray paint (from Michael’s)
what to do:
1 2 3 4
Gather a number of glass bottles, bowls, cups, etc.
Clean them off. Any glue or labels will prevent spray paint from looking smooth Take bottles outside set them on newspaper and spray on one coat
Let sit for 15 minutes, if there are areas where you can still see the glass, add another layer
BLUE VALENTINE Photography: Bonner Williams Models: Christina Giusti Steffan Triplett
Raw Denim Written by Tayler Geiger Photography by Paulina Gallagher
Your basic blue jeans, now a worldwide fashion staple, are actually a fairly new development in the fashion world. Invented around 1873 in California by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, they were intended to be a hardy garment that could withstand the tough working environments of the West. Using rivets to reinforce the pockets and other points of stress, Strauss and Davis created what became a wardrobe essential. The evolution of denim never really stopped; now entire subcultures of “denimheads” devote themselves to their jeans. As with all matters of fine taste, there is a deep rabbit whole to be discovered that is the modern world of denim. Here’s what you need to know: Selvedge — many of the higher-quality jeans you’ll see will be made of selvedge denim. “Selvedge” comes from “self-edge,” meaning that the edge of the fabric has a clean finish. This arises from the way the fabric is made. Older style looms create finished-edge fabric that is tighter and less likely to unravel at the seams. However, these looms can only create lengths of fabric at a limited width. The story goes, that after World War II demand for denim skyrocketed. To keep up with demand, American denim manufacturers turned to modern looms that could make denim of all sizes. The old selvedge looms were largely bought up by Japanese textile makers, which is why most high-quality selvedge you find today comes from Japan—those same looms are still used today. That historical connection and the longer-lasting fabric are why you would buy selvedge. You can tell if a pair of jeans is selvedge by looking at the cuff— if you see a finished stripe along the outside seam, you’ve got yourself some true-blue selvedge. Washed/Unwashed/Raw — This has to do with whether the jeans were chemically treated during production. Most of your mall-brand jeans will be washed, meaning that they’re less likely to shrink when washed and are soft and comfortable at the very first wear. Typically, selvedge denim is going to be unwashed, or raw, meaning that they’ve only been cut and sewn together before you get them—no chemical treatment, no artificially produced wear or fading added. Unwashed jeans are stiff when you buy them, and take some breaking-in before they get comfortable. But many people—myself included—swear by the long-term payoff of a raw pair. The denim breaks down from the unique movements of your body, making for a personalized and more comfortable fit. This, combined with the fact that most
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raw selvedge jeans are made in more flattering cuts and styles, explains their large following of fashionistas, hobbyists, and casual style fans. Raw selvedge is not the end all, be all for jeans, and it’s definitely not for everybody. Many high-quality pairs of jeans feature pre-distressed washes, sewn-on patches, rips, tears, and even prints or sequins. There’s also something to be said for niche, unconventional jeans like those in bright colors and waxed pairs that have a distinct glossy look. But it’s hard to beat a deep blue pair of basic jeans in terms of adaptability and convenience— they go with damn near anything. If you decide to buy a pair of unwashed jeans, there are a couple features you must keep in mind. Firstly, when finding the correct size, expect to downsize. And don’t be surprised if you find them uncomfortable. The rigidity will go away with repeated wears. Make sure the jeans fit
The indigo can actually rub off and leave little blue smears. This also means that throwing your jeans into a heavy wash cycle can leave them as whitewashed as your uncle’s work jeans. Which is typically not the look one wants when buying a pair of dark blue selvedge jeans. Many makers and fans of raw denim recommend not washing the garment for anywhere from 3 to 6 months, minimum, while others never wash them. I recommend something of a medium. Leave them unwashed as long as you can stand it, allowing personalized wear to develop, and hang them up at night to air out. If some catastrophe happens, like falling into a dumpster while wearing your jeans, or if you notice the crotch is about to rip, then go ahead and wash them. If they start to stink, badly, wash them. Although to each their own: these are your jeans. Some people swear by things like wearing their 12-month-old raws into the ocean for their first
RECOMMENDATIONS
1. Levi’s Shrink-to-fits: Raw, but not selvedge. Makes for a safe, cheap, first-time foray into unwashed denim. 2. Unbranded Slim Straight Selvedge Jean: A new offering from Urban Outfitters that sits on the less pricey end of the denim spectrum. Raw and selvedge, another good first time pair. 3. The Baldwin Henley: My current, and favorite, pair. A little more expensive, but made of high quality denim in a minimal, slim cut. Also made by the up-and-coming Baldwin Denim out of Kansas City, MO. Support small business! 4. Any A.P.C. raws: A tad cheaper than Baldwin, with many more styles, cuts, and colors. One of the most highly recommended makers of raw selvedge denim you’ll find. almost too tightly when trying them on, as most pairs of raws will stretch a couple inches around the waist and thighs over time as they mold to your body. But don’t buy them so tight you can’t move! If buying from a brick-andmortar shop, most sales associates will be able to tell you how much stretch to expect from wear. Secondly, you might have to alter how you think about washing your jeans. Much of denimhead culture revolves around the almost ritualistic “first wash” of a pair of raws. This is because the first wash of a pair of jeans, if done without proper caution, can ruin your beautiful new selvedge. Since the indigo ink on unwashed denim is not sealed in with chemical washes at the factory, the tiny droplets of indigo rub off of the fibers of the fabric. This is why you should be careful wearing your raw jeans around white furniture, or with white shoes, at least while they’re new.
wash, which even if it doesn’t produce a better-looking pair, definitely makes for a cool experience. Just keep in mind that once they’re washed, they won’t wear nearly as much. Use your best judgment to gauge how you want your jeans to look. Also anticipate a bit of shrinkage after washing. The most common suggestion for a first wash is to fill a bathtub with enough warm water to submerge your jeans, toss in a bit of Woolite to clean and preserve color, and then to keep the jeans under for 30-45 minutes before hang drying. But do what you want! I’m certain the miners who wore the first pairs made by the same loom that made yours had their own unique washing stories, so make yours truly yours. Don’t be afraid, and have fun!
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alter ego Photography by: Leah Nordman Models: Alexandra Fen, Paulina Gallagher, Bri Pickens & Simran Sahni Make Up: Lillian Lee
:
st a L At
D O FO ! T N PRI Food printed clothing has recently replaced the Hawaiian shirt as the reigning champion of tacky-chic apparel, and has allowed us to (finally) emblazon our true loves on our wardrobes. Labels are boldly printing images of burgers, pizza, donuts, and even french fries on staple pieces like sweatshirts and tees. The trend has grown substantially from its niche roots, as our lord and savior BeyoncĂŠ was recently spotted rocking a two-piece pizza-print outfit. For the most part, this trend is better represented online, but stores like Forever 21 and Urban Outfitters are beginning to stock certain pieces. Online marketplace Etsy has long been the kitschiest corner of the internet, and have always carried cherry and candy printed clothes. These safer patterns have long been staples of the “retroâ€? look. However, the trend has reached the runway, and designers are getting more experimental with their chosen foods: recent collections from Dolce & Gabbana, Stella McCartney, and Prada have featured eggplant, orange, and lemon prints on voluminously cut tops and skirts. Labels like Jeffrey Campbell and Jeremy Scott are putting a more highend twist on the trend as well, even moving beyond printed shirts and sweatshirts into footwear and accessories. This trend goes beyond cutesy watermelon or cupcake print; some sweatshirts are even emblazoned with giant photographic burgers and pizza! Although some pieces are on the verge of being pretty gross even for the diehard carnivores among us, food prints are pretty spectacular. Written by Chelsea Velaga Images from Beloved Shirts, Mr. Gugu and Miss Go, and Etsy
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