POLPO Chelsea

81 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LY

‘Italian tapas’ they said! Or to put it another way ‘small sharing dishes’, or even better “cicheti”: the Venetian term to describe snacks and side dishes that are traditionally served in local bars knows as ‘Bacari’ all over Venice. These Bacari provided the inspiration behind Polpo, which now has restaurants in several London locations, as well as one in Brighton.

Just a stone’s throw from landmarks like The Royal Court Theatre, Saatchi Gallery and Peter Jones, Polpo’s Chelsea home is a Georgian, Grade II listed building with a huge outside terrace which is reminiscent of the huge squares of Venice, Italy. The buzz of friendly chatter under the linen parasols called out to us as we arrived. We visited on a beautiful summer’s evening with our family, and there was a romantic holiday ambience in the air.

Whilst browsing the menu, we enjoyed a speciality cocktail with Limoncello and Prosecco. They offer a nice range of classic spritz, including that popular Italian favourite; Aperol Spritz, along with a good variety of cocktails, Italian wines and Proseccos.

The concept at POLPO is small Venetian plates, all perfect for sharing. We had the kids with us, so we ordered 2-3 plates each, and shared everything; starting with an arrangement of cicheti (Venetian snacks) including potato & parmesan crochette (£3.80), stuffed fried olives (£5) and all four samples of the bruschette (£14 – including my two favourites – the crab, celeriac, apple & caper, and the gorgonzola & cured pork shoulder) – we cut each one into four, and found them all particularly delicious and moreish … but with so much more to sample we resisted the temptation of ordering another platter.

In addition to the ‘Cicheti’. There is a range of larger plates, under the headings: fish, meat, vegetables & salads, and ‘Pizzette’ (small Pizzas). The fritto misto (£10) was a particular favourite amongst our family. It looks impressive; a selection of seafood including king prawns, calamari as well as slices of courgette, piled onto the plate with a delicate coating of crispy batter- it was gone in a flash! My wife’s favourite dish, however, was the sautéed tiger prawns with chilli and garlic – the prawns were succulent and complemented perfectly by the most memorable chilli and garlic sauce. Luckily, we had ordered some grilled focaccia to mop up the delicious remnants.

The Pizzette options offered an interesting range of fresh toppings: from ‘asparagus, prosciutto and taleggio’ to ‘pork shoulder and pickled pepper’. We opted for the mozzarella, tomato & basil (£6), which was so delicious that we ordered an extra pizzette from the specials board (look out for this, as it offers seasonal specials). It turned out to be one of the best pizzas I have enjoyed in a long time. Another highlight were the meatballs with tomato sauce & parmesan (classic beef & pork with spaghetti; £9.50), which had the authentic taste of Italian home-cooking about it (bearing in mind, my limited English perspective on Italian home-cooking!).

To accompany the meal, and introduce some healthy greenery, we ordered a baby gem, pea radish & rabiola salad (£5), this was fresh and deliciously different from the usual mixed leaf side salad you find in numerous chain restaurants.

There are a number of other sharing platters on the menu including crab & chilli linguine, and flank steak, watercress & portobello mushrooms, to mention just a couple that piqued my interest for a future visit. There is also plenty to choose from for vegetarians (there is a separate allergen and vegetarian menus), and the kids loved everything they ate, making this a great choice for the family.

The kids were excited about the Nutella pizzetta (£6) on the Dessert menu. They both remained silent as they munched their way through this (fairly large) dessert despite everything that had preceded it. I really enjoyed my creamy and delicate tiramisu pot (£5.30), and my wife quietly devoured her chocolate & hazelnut cake with marscapone cream (£6.50), kindly allowing me to sample a mouthful.

We enjoyed a cold bottle of Rosé wine (Pinot Grigio Rosato, Ponte Pietra) to complement our meal, and it seemed to particularly echo the ambience of this warm summer’s evening.

As the sun went down and the air chilled, we made use of the cosy blankets provided to outside diners. We also spotted heaters under the parasols, which must be very welcome in the colder months. Inside, the restaurant is small, busy and romanticevoking the feeling of rustic Italian charm. It has a friendly atmosphere, which is enhanced by the helpful and cheery staff.

Polpo’s philosophy is ‘one of humble, honest, unpretentious, stripped back beauty in everything we do’ and they certainly hold true to this. The overall feeling evoked is an uncomplicated celebration of good food and drink, making this the perfect venue to enjoy lunch or dinner with family, friends, or colleagues.

Soho, Covent Garden and Chelsea are first come-first served at dinner, but they do take dinner bookings at Brighton and Smithfield. If you fancy a little taste of authentic Italy, then Polpo is just the place!