A Spanish Escapade

There’s something special about Spain. I had the privilege of growing up in the south of the country, in Malaga, and got to know Andalusia and its treasures quite well. But the rest of Spain remained mostly unknown to me, and it wasn’t until a recent return trip to the country, to the cities of Madrid, Zaragoza and Valencia, that I got to know – and fall in love – with a place where I grew up but that I perhaps didn’t fully appreciate as a young boy.

MADRID

Madrid, while a European capital, often had to take a backseat to other, more high-profile European capitals, like Paris, London and Rome. Even within Spain, vacationers opted for Barcelona and its Mediterranean coastline, or the sun-drenched Costa del Sol in the country’s south. There was a feeling that Madrid was more insular, less international and perhaps less dynamic that other parts of Europe and Spain. That may have been the case a decade or two ago, but things have certainly changed for the city.

Seemingly overnight, Madrid has taken on an unabashedly cosmopolitan sheen, offerings attractions to rival any metropolis.

First you’ve got incredible museums: the illustrious Prado, with its unparalleled collection of European art; the Thyssen, holding one of the world’s most important collections of 20th-century art; and the Reina Sofia museum, which has a spectacular modern addition by architect Jean Nouvel and is home to Picasso’s breathtaking “Guernica.” The CaixaForum Madrid, a visual feast courtesy of architects Herzog & de Meuron, hosts ancient and contemporary art exhibits as well as various cultural festivals.

In terms of monuments, there’s the spectacular Royal Palace of Madrid, where every picture you snap is Instagram-worthy, and the gorgeous Almudena Cathedral across the way, with its striking chapels and Romanesque crypt. Plaza Mayor, one of Madrid’s main public spaces, was once the city’s market and is now lined with lively bars and restaurants. Nearby Puerta del Sol, with its famous clock, is the city’s busiest public square.

Then there’s the Parque del Buen Retiro, an urban green lung that covers 1.4 square kilometers. Majestic sculptures and monuments dot the sprawling park, and there are also various lakes and ponds upon which ducks and swans glide at all hours. The park is home to the magnificent Crystal Palace, a translucent glass structure in which art exhibits are held.

Madrid is also a city of neighborhoods, and each one offers a distinctive flavor. The hippest is Chueca, home to the LGBT community and now a hub for trendy cafés, bars, restaurants and stores. The Mercado de San Antón houses produce, meat, seafood, eateries and snack joints on three engaging levels, while restaurants like Casa Salvador and El Pepinillo de Barquillo serve contemporary takes on classic Spanish fare. Madrid Pride takes place in Chueca every year at the end of June.

Malasaña, right next to Chueca, is edgy and happening, with vintage stores, shops operated by young designers and casual bars, while Las Salesas, north of Chueca, is a buzzy, self-contained village with some of the capital’s most creative clothing boutiques.

Near Las Salesas, Salamanca is Madrid’s most expensive neighborhood. Here, you’ll find all the high-end retails stores plus many of the city’s Michelin-starred restaurants. In Salamanca, Platea is a former cinema that’s been transformed into a gourmet food hall, with varied establishments serving cuisine that’s a cut above the rest.

Madrid’s boundless energy is perhaps one of its most seductive traits. At all times of day and night, there’s something to see or do, while the locals’ friendliness and endless joie de vivre add a festive vibe to virtually any experience.

ZARAGOZA

Zaragoza in Aragón is less than 90 minutes east of Madrid by train, and while it’s Spain fifth largest city, it remains seductively sleepy, off the beaten tourist path, but with untold wonders to discover.

We arrived in the city in the early afternoon, just as stores and establishments were closing down for the timehonored siesta. Businesses in Spain’s major cities no longer shut their doors during the midday hours, but they still do in Zaragoza, and while it may be inconvenient for visitors, it adds charm to this ancient city with narrow streets, engaging plazas and bijou museums. The best thing to do during the lunch and siesta hours is hit the old town (Casco Antiguo) and sample delectable tapas. Places like La Republicana, Los Victorinos and El Tubo serve such specialties as croquetas (ham croquettes), santurce (sardines with potatoes and tomatoes) and albardilla (pastry with leeks and blue cheese), all best washed down with a glass (or pitcher) of ice-cold sangria.

Start your foray into Zaragoza by visiting the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, the city’s most photographed monument. This gigantic, awe-inspiring Baroque landmark was constructed between the 17th and 18th centuries and it’s the most important pilgrimage church in Spain after Santiago de Compostela. Highlights include frescoes by Spanish artist Francisco de Goya. The best views of the Basilica are from across the river – just walk across the stone bridge (Puente de Piedra) that straddles the Ebro river and look back for spine-tingling vistas of the magnificent church.

Nearby, La Seo del Salvador is another major Zaragoza cathedral. While its exterior is less imposing than Our Lady of the Pillar, La Seo’s interior is even more spectacular, featuring a range of Romanesque, Mudéjar, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles, as well as a major collection of artworks. Built between the 12th and 16th centuries and also housing a rare tapestries museum, La Seo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.

Zaragoza once was a major Roman town – it was in fact named after its founder, Emperor Augustus (Caesaraugusta). As such, it possesses significant Roman monuments that can easily be explored during a leisurely morning stroll. Start at the Roman forum, opposite the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar. Here, you can purchase a map and entrance ticket to view all Roman sites and artifacts. The ticket will provide access to the Roman forum, Roman theater, Roman baths and Roman walls, as well as the fascinating Roman museum (located inside the forum), which features recreations of the forum and of daily Roman life.

While we were outside the Museo de Pablo Gargallo (the late Spanish sculptor who hailed from Aragón), waiting for it to reopen at 5pm after its midday closure, a middle-aged Spanish musician arrived on Plaza de San Felipe where the museum is located. He started playing gripping, plaintive Spanish music and as he did, elderly locals gathered around him, as if in answer to his musical lament. They then started dancing in circles, changing partners, swaying to the melody, with smiles on their faces. It was a moment that captured Zaragoza’s ancient traditions and its inhabitants’ sweet, quiet happiness.

VALENCIA

From Madrid, it takes less than two hours to reach Valencia by train. We arrived here after our Madrid and Zaragoza sojourns, and chose to stay in the historic center (Citutat Vella), with its cobblestone streets, open-air cafés and architecture that ranges from Roman to Modernist, with a strong Moorish touch. One of the most popular attractions here is the Mercat Central (Central Market), a delightful Art Nouveau structure that now houses a bustling market selling, fruits, vegetables, produce and local specialties.

But Valencia’s top attraction is easily the City of Arts and Sciences, an architectural marvel that encompasses over 350,000 square meters. Mainly designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the City of Arts and Sciences was completed in stages, with the first of seven structures (L’Hemisfèric) inaugurated in 1996, and the last one (covered plaza and performance space L’Àgora) unveiled in 2009.

Each building that forms part of the city is a masterpiece in its own right. The breathtaking science museum for example – El Museu des Les Ciències Príncipe Felipe – looks like the white skeleton of whale, floating atop a body of water. Another building, L’Hemisfèric, resembles an eye that blinks, opening and closing onto the adjoining body of water. L’Hemisfèric includes an IMAX cinema and planetarium, with the projection room situated inside a futuristic sphere.

El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía, which first opened in 2005, took 14 years to complete. The visually splendid building, which looks like a cross between an ocean liner and a spacecraft and has often been likened to a helmet, has three main areas, including a main performance space that seats up to 1,800 guests. L’Àgora, the last of Calatrava’s buildings to be completed (in 2009) is a metallic structure that looks like a pointed ellipse and has been used to host special sporting events. In 2020, the City of Arts and Sciences will get a brand-new structure, courtesy of Spanish architect Enric Geli-Ruiz. His CaixaForum Valencia cultural center, to be set within Calatrava’s Àgora building, is designed to resemble a translucent flying saucer, and will reflect the City of Arts and Sciences’ futuristic feel and purist aesthetic.

After visiting the City of Arts and Sciences, head to the adjoining Turia Gardens. Valencia’s Turia river flowed around the city until the middle of the 20th century, when it was diverted to avoid flooding. The river bed was then transformed into an engaging, visually stunning green space with bicycle trails, running paths, fountains, tennis courts and more, providing a year-round playground for locals and visitors alike.

Before leaving Valencia, head to the Mercado de Colón. Housed in a 1916 Modernist landmark that once was a market, the Mercado de Colón is a trendy hub for bars, restaurants and shops that’s buzzing at all times. Choose your favorite spot and order Agua de Valencia. The delicious local specialty is a mix of cava, orange juice, vodka and gin that’s sure to hit the spot after a long day of sightseeing. Raise your glass and say cheers to Spain.

Words Marwan Naaman