Q3 2020 by Reef Hobbyist Magazine

THIRD QUARTER 2020 I VOLUME 14

HIDDEN TREASURES:

REEF BASSLETS

MANGROVES:

PLANTS FOR YOUR REEF ECOSYSTEM

COLONIAL LPS FRAGGING GUIDE

SHELTERING IN PLACE: COVID AND YOUR LFS REEF SPOTLIGHTS: A NANO REEF JOURNEY, A REEF IN NORTHAMPTONSHIRE, A GREAT BAVARIAN REEF

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

FEATURES 6

SHELTERING IN PLACE: COVID AND YOUR LFS Adam Mullins is a co-owner of The Mystic Reef in Riverside, CA. COVID has forced local fish stores (LFS) to make big changes in an already tough environment. Adam shares what it's been like during the shutdown and offers some ideas to help your LFS survive.

A NANO REEF JOURNEY Bogdan Borta is an experienced freshwater aquascaper who recently discovered his passion for the captivating world of corals. This system demonstrates the success that can be achieved in a wellplanned but simple system.

ON THE COVER HIDDEN TREASURES: REEF BASSLETS

Sabine Penisson is a French photographer and author focused on coral reef fauna. Reef basslets are beautiful, unique, and shy but make excellent reef tank fish. In this piece, Sabine covers the more common Liopropoma species, their ecology, and husbandry requirements. Cover images by Yi-Kai Tea

A REEF IN NORTHAMPTONSHIRE Ian Cosford has only been in the hobby 2½ years, and this tank (his second) is fully stocked with an array of colorful corals. Like many of us, Ian didn’t understand how captivating this hobby is. Through a series of upgrades, he has produced a very pretty home reef.

FRAG IT! A COLONIAL LPS FRAGGING GUIDE Jared Burbank has been reefing since the mid-'90s and is the owner of MyReefToYours. In this guide, Jared walks you through all the nitty-gritty of fragging colonial LPS colonies.

A GREAT BAVARIAN REEF Alexander Ihle is a veteran hobbyist from Bavaria, Germany. After a decade in the hobby, Alexander has created a stunning reef in his Red Sea REEFER 425 XL and shares his formula for success here.

MANGROVES: PLANTS FOR YOUR REEF ECOSYSTEM Richard Aspinall is a conservation biologist who now works as a gardener and freelance writer. Healthy reefs are dependent on adjacent marine environments, like mangrove forests. Join Richard in exploring their diversity and their functions in the wild and in your home reef.

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SHELTERING IN PLACE: COVID AND YOUR LFS

ADAM MULLINS

BRICK AND MORTAR FISH STORES

of online shopping. And the current COVID crisis isn’t helping. However, I believe the aquarium and pet stores have a built-in advantage. The very nature of livestock purchasing favors a face-toface interaction. You would probably prefer to see your prospective purchase in person, ask for and receive real-time help or advice, and shop without the associated costs of overnight shipping. Fortunately, the pet industry has this valuable, built-in buffer of service.

As the owner of an LFS (local fish store), it has been an uncertain time to say the least. Many brick-and-mortar fish stores have been struggling for years to keep their doors open due to the pressures

Many of our first experiences with aquariums and their possibilities— the wonderment of fish, the abundance and variety of livestock, the appeal of the underwater world—began in a local fish store.

n light of the current COVID-19 crisis, it may seem a bit facetious to write an article about ways to enjoy our hobby. I write this with the utmost respect for the current situation and send my condolences and love to all those affected by this catastrophe. I do not take this subject lightly.

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LFS owners and their passionate staff are part of the backbone of this hobby. They coached us through our first tank setups (and crashes), recommended fish, tested our water, and guided us through those first faltering steps in this great hobby. They continue to be the place most new hobbyists turn to for guidance. Most store owners are in the hobby for the same reason you are: we love aquatic life with a passion. Chances are, if you’re reading this, you deal with a pretty grass-roots-type local store, as the distribution of this magazine is passed down through wholesale hubs to stores for free. With the arrival of the virus, it is more important than ever that we all work together to safeguard the future of the hobby. With government guidelines for businesses changing every week, and state by state, the best advice I can give to hobbyists is to stay in communication with your LFS. We have found great success using Instagram to announce updates on store hours, livestock availability, and other news. Of course, there’s also text messaging, email lists, Facebook, websites, forums, Yelp, etc. For owners, make sure you are clear about what platforms you use to communicate with your customers. And for customers, ask your store’s employees what platforms they are using. Be proactive; we’re all in this together! HOW YOU CAN HELP YOUR LOCAL FISH STORE In case you’re wondering what you can do, there are a number of ways you can directly help your local fish store (and the hobby we all love) during this difficult time. Many of these ideas also apply to any small business you want to support.

Captive-raised livestock is a huge benefit to the hobby during times when our wild imports have been greatly affected.

LEAVE A POSITIVE REVIEW Reviews go a long way and really help. We all know people are quick to point out an unsatisfactory experience they may have had, but very few take the time to share their positive experiences. Leave a positive review on Yelp or Google, and let others know about a great experience you’ve had or why you love your local fish store. (This applies to all businesses you like and want to support, but it’s especially important for small businesses.) DONATE OR TRADE IN YOUR EXTRA LIVESTOCK Consider trading in any extra livestock in your system for store credit or, if possible, donating it. Many successful hobbyists end up with bountifully reproducing tanks—from fish breeding at home, to overgrown plants, to corals that need pruning—and this is a great time to share with your favorite store. This source of captive-raised livestock is a valuable resource for local fish stores needing to get some fresh, locally grown stock in their tanks while they await the full reopening. I really do feel this could be a saving grace for the hobby if enough hobbyists help. In my store, we trade for livestock all the time. Contact your local fish store and see if they would be interested in what you have to offer; I guarantee that gesture will not be forgotten! Reef Hobbyist Magazine

RESPECT YOUR STORE’S PROCEDURES Most local fish stores are practicing what they feel are the best procedures to comply with recommendations in their area. For us, this means limited hours and fewer people allowed in the store at one time. And for the time being, this also means wearing masks and gloves. It is a very awkward thing to ask a customer to stand outside or to put a mask on, but this is what we must do to comply with recommendations to protect the health of our staff and customers. Please respect each store’s individual guidelines and procedures. CONSIDER LEAVING A TIP Some customers have even left small tips, which is especially appreciated right now with limited hours and income. ADDRESS DEFERRED MAINTENANCE Our home tanks may as well look good since this is the most time we’ve ever spent with them. A lot of hobbyists are at home with not much else to do, and many of our customers are finding themselves with plenty of extra energy for tank maintenance; hence, we have seen an uptick in our water sales. Hobbyists can finally get to some of those more timeconsuming maintenance tasks that have been neglected. This is the sign we had to put up at the entrance to our fish store.

This includes things like the annual and biannual chores that often get overlooked, including pump cleaning and maintenance, heater cleaning and inspection, pruning, cleaning cooling fans on lights, sump and skimmer cleaning, and testing the functions of tank controllers, chillers, and battery-backup systems. Most stores have a pretty good supply of maintenance items such as carbon, filters, chemicals, and supplements on hand. Before ordering off the internet, consider giving your local fish store the business on these essentials. If you are thinking about equipment upgrades, check what your local fish store has to offer as well; a few high-ticketitem sales can really help the bottom line. If you value your local fish store, this is a good time to show it, even if it costs a little bit more.

Does your skimmer look like this? Now is a great time to catch up on deferred maintenance.

CONSIDER HIRING YOUR LFS TO SERVICE YOUR TANK If you don’t feel like doing the maintenance yourself, many stores offer service. With diminished revenue from in-store sales, many stores would be more than happy to take on some extra service accounts. If your store doesn’t offer service, they will likely be able to recommend someone who does, who could also probably use the work. So let’s take a moment to sit back, breathe, and enjoy our tanks during this break in our regular routine. Thank you for supporting your local fish store and Reef Hobbyist Magazine. R

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Reef Hobbyist Magazine

BOGDAN BORTA Images by Pataki Ciprian

A NANO REEF JOURNEY

y name is Bogdan Borta, and I am from Cluj-Napoca, Romania. I’ve been really passionate about the aquarium hobby for around 13 years now. Throughout that time, I’ve practiced freshwater aquascaping, but when it comes to reef aquascaping, I consider myself a novice.

clear, low-iron, rimless tank and added an external filter, swapped over from freshwater use. My main goal was to build a mixed-reef tank that was easy to maintain, using mostly the equipment that I already had. That way, I could spend my money buying live rock, corals, and fish.

I wanted to start this reef tank a long time ago, but it always seemed like it would be extremely complicated and costly. In the end, it still cost me an arm and a leg, but I no longer find it all that complicated.

SPECIFICATIONS

My reef journey started about 4 years ago when I visited a friend at his office and had the opportunity to see his mixed-reef tank. I was blown away by the fascinating diversity of corals and fish. So I decided that I must have something like that one day, a piece of the reef in my home! I spent the next year looking for information on dedicated forums and YouTube channels. Then I decided to go for it; I set up an ultra-

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Display: 24" × 16" × 16" Glass: ultra clear, low iron, 6 mm Lighting: AquaIllumination Prime 16HD Wavemaker: Jebao SW-4 Filtration: Oase BioMaster Thermo 350 Media: Seachem Matrix, Aquavitro Purfiltrum (100 ml) Live Rock: ~15 kg Salt: Red Sea Coral Pro Supplements: Red Sea Energy AB, Tropic Marin All-For-Reef Bacteria: Aquavitro Seed Miscellaneous: Vibrant Reef aquarium cleaner

Banggai Cardinalfish

War Coral and M. lordhowensis

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Ruby Red Dragonet

I think it is extremely important to have very good biological filtration. I filled up my Oase BioMaster Thermo 350 filter with 5 liters of Seachem Matrix bio media, and I used as much live rock as I could. A huge advantage of the Oase BioMaster filter is that the prefilter cartridge can be removed separately for cleaning without having to open the canister. This means the main filterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biological filtration gets disrupted only once or twice a year during maintenance. Taking care of this tank is fairly easy. Daily maintenance consists of adding Tropic Marin All-For-Reef and reverse osmosis water to compensate for water evaporation. Also, I add Red Sea Energy AB

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Starry Dragonet

every now and then because I forget to add it every day, as I keep it in the fridge. The general maintenance is done without exception every 2 weeks. I thoroughly clean the glass and the prefilter sponges, vacuum the substrate thoroughly (itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really important to take out as much organic matter as possible during this process), and change 20 percent of the water volume. Lastly, I add bacteria (Aquavitro Seed) and Vibrant Reef aquarium cleaner to prevent algae growth.

You may have noticed that I don’t use a skimmer. For small aquariums like mine, I don’t think it’s necessary. I rely on frequent water changes to keep the nutrients in balance. FISH • (2) Amphiprion ocellaris (Ocellaris Clownfish) • Pterapogon kauderni (Banggai Cardinalfish) • Gobiodon okinawae (Yellow Clown Goby) • Nemateleotris exquisita (Exquisite Firefish) • Elacatinus randalli (Yellownose Goby) • Synchiropus stellatus (Starry Dragonet) • Synchiropus sycorax (Ruby Red Dragonet) • Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma) INVERTEBRATES • Lysmata amboinensis (Cleaner Shrimp) • Lysmata debelius (Blood Shrimp) • (3) Trochus sp. snail • multiple Turbo sp. snails SMALL-POLYP STONY (SPS) CORALS • Montipora digitata (red and green) • Montipora spp. (red plate and green plate) • Montipora hirsuta (light green) • Pavona sp. (green cactus) • Acropora sp. (green stag) • Acropora parilis (blue) LARGE-POLYP STONY (LPS) CORALS • Euphyllia cristata • Euphyllia divisa • Euphyllia paradivisa • Euphyllia glabrescens • Blastomussa wellsi • Blastomussa merletti • Alveopora sp. • Caulastrea furcata • Micromussa lordhowensis • Duncanopsammia axifuga • Favites pentagona SOFT CORALS • zoanthids • Palythoa spp. • green star polyps • Sarcophyton sp. (toadstool leather) • Discosoma spp. (red and blue mushrooms) • Pinnigorgia sp. (gorgonian) • Rumphella sp. (gorgonian) Once a day, I feed the fish and shrimp as much as they can eat for 2 to 3 minutes. I feed them frozen brine shrimp (Artemia sp.) and Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Yellow Clown Goby

New Life Spectrum dry food pellets. About every 2 weeks, I target feed the corals with Polyplab Reef-Roids. I try not to overfeed to keep the nitrate and phosphate levels low. Initially, I regularly tested nitrate, carbonate hardness, calcium, and magnesium levels. But lately, I test those parameters less frequently, about once or twice a month. I’ve learned to rely more on observing the behavior of my corals and how they react when something is off. From my experience, I have noticed that it is important not to have carbonate hardness fluctuations, especially below 7 dKH, so I try to keep this parameter stable and constantly above 8 dKH. I never expect to obtain exact target values for the water parameters. I’d rather try to be consistent in what I do, keeping

Royal Gramma

water parameters as stable as possible. Recently, I obtained nitrate and carbonate hardness values of 25 ppm and 8.4 dKH. It’s been 2 years since I started this project, and while I’m really happy with how this tank turned out, I’ve already considered going for a bigger system with a proper sump, skimmer, and reactors. My goal for this new project is to be able to grow more SPS corals, such as Acropora species, so I’m aiming at an ultra-low-nutrient system. Everyone knows that you need to be patient in this hobby, but I have learned a few other things over the years that have helped me to succeed. You need to be consistent in what you do. Try making maintenance as simple as possible, because you will be more likely to do it regularly. Also, never stop learning, and always be open to suggestions; there are so many ways to approach this beautiful hobby, and that’s surely one of its charms. R

Full-tank shot from November 2018

L. multilineatum

SABINE PENISSON

Images by Yi-Kai Tea, Sydney University, and Australian Museum Research Institute except as noted

HIDDEN TREASURES:

REEF BASSLETS

eef basslets of the genus Liopropoma are prized aquarium fish, yet they’re scarce on the trade stocklists. These reclusive fish are hardy tank dwellers if you take care to keep them in a suitable environment. I hope this article will help inform your choice by presenting the most commonly available species (and some less common), an overview of their ecology in the wild, and the best aquarium systems to provide for these little treasures. Reef basslet is the common name for the serranids within the genus Liopropoma. The Serranidae family also includes groupers and sea bass, large predators of the reefs. The Liopropomatinae subfamily is closely related to Grammistinae, the soapfishes. Liopropoma species are bashful fish, typically found in caves and crevices, under ledges and overhangs, and in other quiet environments within the reef. These fish don’t swim in the open and tend to stay within their small territory either alone or sometimes in pairs. As they are very private, alert, and therefore hard to observe, their biology is not well

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known. Many species were scientifically described from randomly found individuals, sometimes even discovered from commercial fishermen’s catches and never observed in their natural habitat. If by chance you’re diving and one shows up, you can be sure it’ll retreat into the dark as soon as you see it. Some species are found in relatively shallow waters (3 to 100 feet), like L. rubre or L. susumi, but most of them are rarely seen above 100 feet. And the deeper you go, the more basslets you’ll find, even for the species found in shallower waters. BIOLOGY, REPRODUCTION, AND NATURAL ECOLOGY Measuring from 2.3 to 9 inches long depending on the species, Liopropoma all have a slender, elongated body, with a flat, pointed head at one end and a short, triangular tail at the other. Their dorsal fin is most of the time segmented in two, with the second dorsal fin being a duplicate of the anal fin, giving the fish a very balanced look.

Deep overhangs and ledges are good spots to look for Liopropoma species. | Image by author

All Liopropoma species bear a complete lateral line, sensory pores on the head, and tubular nostrils. The advanced development of these sensory organs is a good hint that this genus relies on something other than sight when hunting or monitoring its surroundings. Regarding their reproductive mode, Todd Gardner, who successfully paired and actually bred some Liopropoma species, wrote that they are hermaphrodites. Courtship occurs at dawn, with both fish quickly dashing out of the rocks for the release of the gametes after a codified parade initiated inside the cover of their home. This is documented for the most common species but is just speculation for the rarer ones. L. rubre was successfully bred in 2010 by Todd Gardner at Long Island Aquarium, followed by his success with L. carmabi in 2012. Karen Brittain achieved full development of L. carmabi in 2017. Unfortunately, there are currently no captive-bred reef basslets on the market that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m aware of. But considering the hard work ornamental marine breeders are currently doing, captive-bred Liopropoma species should soon be available. Producing these rare, hard-to-collect, and pricey fish is a big goal for breeders, as it will ensure healthier, more outgoing, more available, and, therefore, more affordable fish in the future. At the moment, they remain a big challenge to breed due to their small spawn density, long larval stage (69â&#x20AC;&#x201C;80 days for L. rubre but 126â&#x20AC;&#x201C;143 days for L. carmabi, according to Todd Gardner), and high loss rate during transformation and settlement. The larvae are spectacular, showing one extra-long dorsal filament (initially up to 20 times the length of Reef Hobbyist Magazine

the fish) that bears several “sacs” playing a role in buoyancy and swim stabilization. These also may serve a defensive purpose, as they are colored and show a kind of ocelli design that might attract predators toward a nonvital part of the fish. A second long dorsal filament appears later during development and doesn’t bear any of these special sacs, in most cases. These are carnivorous fish, preying on small crustaceans like amphipods, mysid shrimp, and other small shrimp they find crawling in their rocky kingdom. The larger species can also consume fish, like small gobies, cardinalfish, or juveniles of other fish genera. Their natural lifespan is thought to be 5 to 10 years, depending on the size of the species (usually, bigger species live longer). For example, L. carmabi has been reported by some owners to live over 6 years in captivity. A SECRETIVE, UNCOMMON, AND DIVERSE FAMILY There are currently 32 described species in the Liopropoma genus, but some more are in the queue for formal description. The Micronesian L. incandescens is the last to be described, as recently as 2019, from a holotype collected 426 feet under the surface by the famous deep divers and biologists Brian Greene and Luiz Rocha. The natural distribution of the Liopropoma genus sorts into two groups: the Western Atlantic/Caribbean Sea natives and the Indo-Pacific group. We’ll arrange our presentation of the species with this distinction, with the representative territory, range of depth commonly encountered, average adult size, and pattern description. Western Atlantic basslets are by far the best choice for American hobbyists, as travel time is much shorter. This means less stress and better overall health when the fish lands for acclimation. Fortunately, these are among the most brightly colored Liopropoma species as well. Their scarce natural population and secretive nature still make all the Liopropoma species only sporadically available, even for these Atlantic fish, but this hobby is all about patience, right?

L. carmabi, the Candy Basslet, is found around the Florida Keys and the Bahamas, south to Brazil, at depths from 50 to 230 feet. This is one of the smallest species, with an adult size of less than 2.5 inches. This is a very pretty species with its glowing hot pink and bright-orange stripes. Candy Basslets tend to be bolder and more outgoing than other basslet species.

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L. fasciatum, the Rainbow Basslet, is present in the East Pacific, from California to Peru. It can be found at depths between 80 and 850 feet but is commonly found below 120 feet. This species measures up to 6.5 inches and is cherry red on the ventral half and darker red on the upper half. It has three discontinuous, thin, horizontal yellow lines on the dorsal part.

L. mowbrayi, the Ridgeback Basslet, is present in Bermuda, the Bahamas, and South Florida to northern South America. This species lives at depths between 100 and 200 feet. Measuring up to 3.5 inches, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the most brightly colored species. This basslet is a rich coral pink overall with bright yellow eyes, and it sports black and white margins on the caudal, anal, and second dorsal fins. It has a bolder personality than other species in this genus and is more outgoing and enjoyable in a well-suited aquarium than others of the family.

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

L. eukrines, the Wrasse Bass, is found from South Carolina to the Florida Keys, at depths between 100 and 500 feet. These stunners have broad chocolate-brown bars along the sides that are surrounded by two yellow stripes, with a dark tangerine-orange color on the back and ventral side. The Wrasse Bass is generally available at an adult size of up to 5 inches long.

L. rubre, the Swissguard Basslet, is present from South Florida to the Bahamas, south to the northern part of South America. This is one of the shallower-water species, living at depths between 10 and 150 feet. The Swissguard bears the same pattern as the Candy Basslet but with duller colors of tan and dark red. This basslet grows to 4 inches.

You might someday have the opportunity to meet one of the three species of golden basslets found around Curacao. L. aberrans is found between 300 and 500 feet deep, L. olneyi is found between 430 and 630 feet deep, and L. santi is found between 600 and 800 feet deep. These golden basslets are approximately 3 inches long as adults and bear a yellow and pink pattern, with L. aberrans being the brightest colored. The other two species are blander in color, and the deeper you go, the lighter they are. L. olneyi and L. aberrans were only described in 2014 due to their deep-water habitat. Next, let’s meet some Indo-Pacific relatives. First, here are some species relatively well represented in the trade, as they live within the usual collection depths:

L. swalesi, the Swale’s Basslet, is found in the Western Pacific, from the Philippines to Indonesia, down to Vanuatu, living between 60 and 300 feet deep. It grows to approximately 2 inches long and is light lavender overall, with broad orange, horizontal stripes all over the body. It is one of the most common species in the trade and is inexpensive for a reef basslet, but it’s famous for being particularly shy and secretive. Some owners report seeing their fish only a few times a year!

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L. susumi, the Meteor Basslet, is widespread from the Red Sea to the Mascarene Islands in the south, and all of the Indian Ocean and Western Pacific, to the Line Islands and Samoan Archipelago. This is a shallow-reef species (6 to 112 feet) with an adult size around 3.5 inches. This species bears a whitish-gray, slightly lavender coat with very thin ocher lateral pinstripes all over the body. L. collettei, Collette’s Basslet, is found in the Western Pacific, from the Philippines down to Indonesia, east to Papua New Guinea and up to Hawaii. Similar to L. susumi, but reddish and with broader stripes, adults measure around 2.75 inches. It is a shallow-reef species (3 to 120 feet) but very secretive. L. mitratum, the Headband Basslet, is widespread from the Red Sea through all of the Indian Ocean, and from the Western Pacific to the Tuamotus, from 10 to 150 feet deep. The adults grow to 3.5 inches, and this fish bears a beautiful salmon-pink color with a yellow tail and a yellow striped mask over its head. We’ll end this genus overview with a close relative, the most curious Flathead Perch, Rainfordia opercularis. This is a member of the Liopropomatinae, endemic to the Pacific coast of Australia. The Flathead Perch shares the same taste for the ideal home as its Liopropoma genus cousins: some well-hidden caves where it can enjoy a secretive life. This species prefers to settle on inshore reefs, at depths between 6 and 130 feet. This striking fish has elongated copper-orange and light lilac striping and sports a very flat head that terminates in a broad “eye-to-eye” mouth, giving it a very peculiar and comical face. This fish grows to 6 inches and can fetch around $4,500! Todd Gardner bred some of these fish in 2017. Finally, let’s underline the close resemblance of Liopropoma species to some of their closest relatives from another genus, the Belonoperca, found in the Grammistinae subfamily of the Serranidae (the soapfishes). There are two described species of Belonoperca: the widespread Indian-Pacific B. chabanaudi and the Central Pacific (especially the Cook Islands) B. pylei. They share

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

R. opercularis

B. pylei

the same elongated body with pointy snout, same habitat preferences, and same global behaviors. B. chabanaudi is gray to dark olive green, with metallic-blue marks on its fins. It grows to 6 inches and is not very appealing to aquarists. But B. pylei, nicknamed the “Dr. Seuss Fish,” is a psychedelic 2.3-inch-long mix of everything we like. They have bright candy colors, crazy patterning, neon and expressive eyes, odd general shape, and huge mouths compared to their bodies. This fish is definitely one you won’t forget. It’s very rare in the trade, but its insane price tag of over $5,000 keeps demand limited.

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BEST SETUPS AND HUSBANDRY Most reef basslets are a big stash of money well hidden in the recesses of an aquascape. But if you become familiar with these fish and their wild habitat, you should know what to expect. They’re naturally very shy, so it will take a long time before they’re confident enough to interact with other residents of the aquarium. In captivity, Liopropoma species could be the perfect reef tankmates. They are easy to feed, resistant to diseases, harmless

L. aurora

to corals and other sessile invertebrates, and not aggressive toward other fish or animals (except the smallest shrimps and fish, which can be taken for prey). Since they settle in the small caves and crevices of your scape, they don’t need much space to thrive. They are perfect nano-reef guests, and a 20-gallon tank for a single individual (40 to 50 gallons for a pair) should be adequate. When acquiring these fish, the main health problem to look out for is swim-bladder damage. It’s a common problem for fish from this genus due to the depths of their natural habitat. Damage typically Below 100–130 feet, coral and fish species change, light is dim, and everything feels quieter. In the cracks of this natural maze, Liopropoma species can hide securely. | Image by author

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Caves and crevices are home to Liopropoma species. Many juveniles and secretive small species of fish take advantage of this shelter. | Image by author

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occurs when the fish undergoes inappropriate decompression during collection. If the fish has been at your local fish store for less than a few days, ask the store if they can hold the fish for a week so you can watch for possible bladder damage. If your coveted fish shows balance troubles, has a bloated belly, swims in an improper position, or keeps turning slightly on a side, with signs of discomfort, it is likely the result of bladder trauma, and you should avoid acquiring that fish. Once you bring a basslet home, cover your tank with a custom net or hood to prevent your fish from jumping out; you never know how a shy and secretive fish will behave if frightened. You’ll need relatively dense rockwork, some open caves, deep crevices, and retreats. Reef basslets will be in paradise if you set up a honeycomb-type maze. You will be able to fill the available caves with other rock-dwelling fish, like dwarf hawkfish, dwarf angelfish, dwarf sea bass, or any other small fish that love to meander into rock labyrinths. Other smart choices for tankmates would be small fish that remain in the open water, which could entice a basslet to be more outgoing. Some examples include cardinals (except the smallest species, which can be taken for prey), firefish, dartfish, tilefish, and some small species of filefish. And other peaceful fish with benthic habits are welcomed, like gobies and their commensal shrimps (no nano gobies, just to avoid potential predation), Corythoichthys spp. pipefish, and dragonets. Associations with grammas, assessors, and dottybacks can be hazardous, however, as these fish compete for the same kind of habitat.

Don’t add any small shrimp that can potentially become prey, like Thor amboinensis, Ancylomenes spp., and Periclimenes spp. Nano gobies from the Elacatinus, Tigrigobius, Trimma, and Eviota genera could be in danger too. All serranids are naturally voracious. It won’t take long before your Liopropoma species will accept frozen mysis, small krill, chopped shrimp, brine shrimp, chopped mussels and cockles, and anything else that can fit into their mouths. The only thing that can prevent these fish from eating is a tank crowded with big and fast fish. Be careful, as your Liopropoma can starve to death if it does not dare to come out of its cave to claim some share of the meal. If the fish is not settled in a quiet tank with small, peaceful tankmates, you should make sure to drop some food into the fish’s cave with a long plastic pipette every day until the fish becomes more confident. Ideally, the aquarium would be dimly lit with a long actinic phase. The dim light will be comforting to the reef basslets and make them less shy about swimming in the open. Therefore, SPS (small-polyp stony) corals won’t be an ideal choice for this display, but you can indulge your appetite for low-light LPS (large-polyp stony) corals, mushrooms, NPS (nonphotosynthetic) corals, and gorgonians. Some twilight zone basslets could be the starting point for a full biotope display, which would make a really unique aquarium! Many thanks to our fish-geek friend and amazing photographer YiKai Tea for the beautiful illustrations in this article. R

Reef Hobbyist Magazine

A REEF IN NORTHAMPTONSHIRE

IAN COSFORD 28

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Micro zoa garden

bought my first marine setup in November of 2017. Having successfully kept goldfish and tropical fish, I thought it was time for a new challenge. I’d always admired reef tanks when seeing them in my local fish store. Being a painter and decorator— and not a chemist—I thought this might be beyond me. But after purchasing a few books and undertaking lots of internet research, I decided it was achievable and would make an exciting new hobby for me. I ordered a small Fluval M60 24-gallon tank. My original idea was to have a couple of clownfish and a few soft corals. Little did I know then how addictive this hobby would become! I started with soft corals but soon moved on to LPS (large-polyp stony) and even some of the easier SPS (small-polyp stony) corals. I slowly upgraded all of my equipment piece by piece as the cheaper stuff failed or was not up to the job. The biggest pain was the rear sump chamber, which was a chore to maintain and limited my equipment choices. Despite that, I still managed to run this tank quite successfully throughout the 16 months I owned it. With all this in mind, I decided that I needed a new system with a proper sump, so the search began. I was limited in space and ended up going with a cube. I saw a Red Sea REEFER 170 in my local fish store and asked if there was a discount, as it was an ex-display. I got 10 percent off, and the store held it for me while I assembled the additional equipment and made a separate cabinet for a larger reverse osmosis reservoir, sockets, and controllers. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

Rasta Zoas

SPECIFICATIONS Display: Red Sea REEFER 170 Lighting: AquaIllumination Hydra 26HD, Aquatic Life T5 hybrid with (2) ATI Blue Plus and (2) ATI actinic Return Pump: EcoTech Marine Vectra S1 Wavemaker: (2) EcoTech Marine VorTech MP10 Skimmer: Reef Octopus 110SSS Auto Top-Off: Tunze 3155 UV Sterilizer: D-D, 10 watts Media Reactor: Aqua Medic Heater: TMC, 300 watts Heat Controller: Inkbird ITC-306A Dosing Pump: D-D H2Ocean P4 Pro Battery Backup: EcoTech Marine I set up this new tank in March of 2019. My plan was to have mainly zoanthids and LPS, with a few SPS. I brought four fish over from my old tank and added a new one. FISH • clownfish (pair) • Midas Blenny • Chalk Goby • Peacock Wrasse Although I like the fish, I find the corals more entertaining. The tank thrived for 4 months until I went on holiday for a week. I worried about leaving the tank for the week, so I overcompensated. I added too much GFO (granular ferric oxide) and NoPox, which caused my nitrate and phosphate to bottom out. The result was a bad case of dinoflagellates and cyanobacteria. I battled these for 2 months, trying every remedy and potion I could find. On the verge of giving

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Purple Monster Zoas

up and selling the system, I came across a regimen created by Cruz Arias of Elegant Corals in Chicago. This included bubble scrubbing, which basically reboots the tank. Cruz took the time to help me source all the things I needed, even ringing me from the United States to help. With his regimen and a UV sterilizer, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been dinoflagellate-free ever since. Lesson learned! My coral choices come down to what I like and what I can afford. I love making different coral gardens. My zoa, blasto, acan, goni,

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and scoly gardens are all doing well. In addition to these, I have two Trachyphyllia species, two candy canes, eight Torch Corals, a Fungia species plate, and a Duncan Coral. I also have a few SPS, including a Seriatopora guttatus, some Montipora species, and a couple of Acropora species frags.

• Aquaforest Amino Mix, Build, Energy, Vitality • Aquaforest NitraPhos Minus, 2 ml per day • Aquaforest Iodum, 1 drop per day • Aquaforest Power Food, Ricco Food, every week • 2 frozen cubes of fish food per day

As far as maintenance goes, I don’t need to do a lot, apart from cleaning the glass every other day. I change the filter floss when needed and clean all the various equipment every 3 months.

One of the greatest parts of this hobby is the community of people that share the same interest. I love the opportunities to share knowledge and ask questions, especially on social media. When I was having problems with my tank, so many people were willing to offer their time and were very patient with my questions. At times, the science side of the hobby can be challenging. However, I’m learning all the time, and now I am in a position to help advise my fellow reefers. I love the reefing groups on Facebook; people are always willing to help. As my knowledge and passion have developed, I’ve become a moderator on a few of the groups. I have to thank Ash Sewry-Griffiths, who has offered me so much great advice. He has really helped me with this hobby. Also, I have become good friends with Duy Nguyen of Ocean’s Treasure, who has swapped loads of corals with me and is always helping with advice too. My local fish store, Reefkeeper Rugby, helped me to no end when I first started and is always on hand for advice.

I have learned not to chase perfect levels; stability is the key for a successful tank. I try to do an ICP test every 3 months because when it comes to water changes, I can get lazy, only doing on average 20 percent a month. I’m now realizing that I don’t need to fix everything that isn’t an immediate issue. Sometimes, you just have to let the tank do its thing. I think you can mess around with things too much and upset the natural balance. I test my parameters every week using Aquaforest, Salifert, and Elos test kits. My tank is very stable, and these are my parameters: Nitrate: 10 ppm Phosphate: 0.08–0.1 ppm Calcium: 415 ppm Magnesium: 1,350 ppm Alkalinity: 8.0 dKH pH: 8.2 Specific Gravity: 1.026 I’ve tried many different supplements and foods for my tank, but I keep coming back to Aquaforest. They have a great range of products at a good price. Their customer service is also excellent, and they always answer my questions. These are the products I add to my tank: • Aquaforest Reef Salt • Aquaforest Component 1+2+3+, 28 ml of each per day Goniopora garden hosting clownfish

My wife is extremely supportive and always listens to me explain each individual coral or my aspirations for the development of the tank. Remarkably, she also puts up with my moods when something isn’t going quite to plan. I really hope that my two daughters will grow up enjoying this hobby and will help me with the tank in the future. Currently, my 2-year-old is learning to say all the names of the different corals and identify them in the tank. As for future plans, I would like either a bigger tank, around 80 gallons with a total mixture of corals, or I might just keep this tank as an LPS/zoa system and add another tank of a similar size just for SPS. This all comes down to me finding space and saving sufficient funds. For now, I’m happy to enjoy my little slice of the ocean. R LPS corner

JARED BURBANK

FRAG IT!

A COLONIAL LPS FRAGGING GUIDE

cleractiniaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;also referred to as stony or hard coralsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; build their own skeletons as they grow. This order of coral can be divided into two categories: small-polyp stony (SPS) and large-polyp stony (LPS) corals. SPS generally grow from the tips or edges of the parent coral, while LPS form a skeletal base with fleshy polyps or heads on the top. Corals that

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are classified as LPS are one of two types: single polyp or colonial. Single-polyp types consist of a solitary head or polyp on a base skeleton, while colonial LPS corals have multiple heads or polyps. Some examples of single-polyp corals are scolies, wellsos, and plates, and some examples of colonial types are acans and blastos. Single-polyp LPS can be risky to frag, while the colonial type of

A beautiful Blastomussa sp. colony with polyps extended

LPS are easily fragged with the right equipment. When dealing with fleshy, encrusting colonial LPS corals, a few steps should be taken to ensure success. When fragging colonial LPS corals, I like to prepare by setting up a small container filled with tank water and a little iodine-based dip. This will help prevent the newly cut frags from becoming infected and diseased.

The same colony but with heads pulled in and ready to frag

Trying to frag encrusting LPS without the proper equipment can result in poor to disastrous results. The heads need to be separated with fine cuts around the polyps to ensure the health of the frag. If you use bone cutters with this type of coral, you will smash or rip polyp heads and probably end up with significant losses. Similarly, trying this with a noncooled cutter such as a Dremel can

When dealing with fleshy heads, such as those found on acans or blastos, start by fanning water at the heads so that they pull into the skeleton. This ensures that the coral flesh wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be damaged when the coral is being lifted out of water. This also makes it easier to see the divisions between individual heads so that accurate cuts can be made. Make sure to have a bright light source to ensure good visibility when cutting.

Colonial LPS colony

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Assemble everything you need before you start fragging

build up excessive heat in the calcareous coral skeleton and may overheat the frag. Water-cooled, fine-diamond-bladed band saws like Gryphonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are the standard within the coral industry. The water cooling prevents the frag from building up heat, and the size of the blade (about 1/10" long and a few hundredths of an inch thick) allows it to cut around the heads without accidentally cutting into the flesh. Wild colonies often come with a dense calcareous base and can be hard to cut. When cutting, take it slow and let the blade do

Carefully cut between the heads, and try not to cut the flesh

the work. Applying a light pressure lets the water-cooling work efficiently and allows the blade to be kept on target with ease. If too much pressure is used, the blade will sometimes twist, turning it off target and potentially damaging the coral. After cutting a single or multiple heads from the parent colony, the base may be trimmed if it is uneven or overly thick. Generally, the bottom skeleton of these types of coral can be shortened to approximately 3/8" without cutting into the coralâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soft inner polyp. Following this procedure, I soak the newly cut frags in the tank water/iodine mixture while I finish cutting other frags. Mounting the newly cut frags is fairly simple. A drop or two of superglue between the base of the frag and the frag plug (or whatever the frag is being attached to) will usually do the job. The glue will stick better if you first pat the base of the frag dry. After placing the frag back into the tank, debris can be removed with a little blast of water from a turkey baster. Putting new frags in a place with a slightly higher flow than normal prevents detritus from settling on them while they are in the healing phase. After a couple of weeks, once the frags have healed, they can be moved to the desired permanent positions in the tank. While it may seem that investing in the right tool costs a lot of money, it will significantly increase your success rate and lower the aggravation factor. Making babies of your favorite colonial LPS coral can be fun and easy. And it is safe for the corals when you use the right tools for the job. R

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Newly fragged polyps attached to disks for growout

Thicker colonies require extra patience to cut.

New frags soaking in tank water/iodine bath

Freshly mounted Favia frags

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ALEXANDER IHLE

A GREAT BAVARIAN REEF

ver since I was a young child, I have always been fascinated by colorful underwater worlds, so it was only a matter of time before my parents got me my first freshwater tank. I started in the hobby at the age of 11, and over the years, my tanks continued to grow in size. While visiting fish stores and zoos about 10 years ago, I was bitten by the saltwater bug.

As my corals grew, I upgraded to a Red Sea REEFER 250. I liked the sump and the new possibilities the system represented. All available tank space was eventually filled with grown-out corals, and by the end of 2017, it was time to upgrade again.

A friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s used Red Sea Max 130 became my first build on this new side of the hobby. He also gave me a couple of frags and some rock. With this first tank, I grew some nasty algae, learned some lessons in patience, watched little things grow, and became completely captivated.

The tank swap was done in one day and worked out quite nicely since everything went from the 250 to the 425, with the exception of the sand. I transferred my existing live rock, so no cycling was required. Everything went well except for one big Acropora colony that broke into two pieces.

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THE REEFER 425XL

One of my all-time favorite LPS, a Symphyllia sp. I got from a friend

At first, I noticed some hair algae growing in the sand, which was probably a result of using tap water to rinse the new sand. In hindsight, it could have been avoided, but some extra snails, an urchin, and a Percnon sp. crab (sally lightfoot) were able to clean it up quickly. I have used Sangokai trace elements from the start, and I still do today because it works well for me. I simply adjusted the dosage after the swap to the new tank. Sangokai helps my tank grow zooplankton like copepods and mysis shrimp, so my reef is able to benefit from live foods. In addition to plankton, I have also spotted different types of sponges, and even mussels, on the live rock. Corals, especially Acropora species, exhibit nice colors and show good polyp extension. The LPS are fleshy and fat. Currently, I dose 4 ml of Sangokai elements each day. Calcium and alkalinity are stabilized according to my own recipe, which works similar to the balling method. Calcium chloride and sodium bicarbonate form the basis of my recipe. By doing regular ICP tests, I found that my tank consumes a lot of iodine due to the permanent use of activated carbon. So I add iodine into the alkalinity container. The tests also showed that strontium was low. I calculate the required quantity and add it into the calcium container. Reef Hobbyist Magazine

My favorite view of some LPS from above

Each solution gets dosed every hour that the tankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lights are on. Measurements show that my tank barely consumes any elements when the lights are off.

showed signs of stress due to too much light. To remedy this, I had to rearrange my corals, which was not easy since space was already limited.

Although there are ways to skip water changes, I am old school. I do water changes regularly, about 15 percent every 2 weeks. It just makes me feel more comfortable and safe.

FLOW

Other than the mentioned supplements, the only thing I add is fish food. I mainly feed my fish frozen foods, such as mysis, krill, brine shrimp, and lobster eggs. The tangs get nori algae or greens from the garden every day. Although I had good growth and nice colors with my DIY LED light, I wanted to try something new. All the high-end tanks I saw on Facebook and in magazines had T5 or T5 hybrid lighting. So in the summer of 2019, I purchased an ATI Hybrid (6) 54-watt T5s with (3) 75-watt LEDs. And yes, the tank benefited from the new light. Calcium and alkalinity levels dropped due to increased coral growth, and I had to adjust the dosing pump. With the upgraded lighting, lightsensitive LPS like Symphyllia spp. and Trachyphyllia spp.

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The flow in my REEFER 425XL is achieved with four Jebao pumps that are set to different flow modes. Some are pulsing, and some are used in Reef Mode or Else Mode. This gives me a turbulent, ever-changing flow. In my opinion, the flow is pretty strong in the upper area. Nonetheless, the aquarium has some dead spots. Those areas of lower flow are where I placed the LPS. But I continue to work on flow every now and then. It is still a challenge to accommodate every coral with the perfect flow. FISH My community of fish has been the same for many years now. I did a lot of research on which types of fish could thrive in my tank before I stocked it. Now that everything is in harmony, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t plan on making any changes.

Ricordea yuma with babies

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This Symphyllia sp. and Lobophyllia sp. had to be separated quickly due to coral warfare.

Two Tridacna maxima clams

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Besides my two tangs (Ctenochaetus tominiensis and Zebrasoma flavescens), I have three pairs of fish that spawn regularly: Amphiprion ocellaris, Pterapogon kauderni, and Synchiropus picturatus. Furthermore, I have five Chromis viridis and a Labroides dimidiatus. Pterapogon kauderni can be bred quite easily, so I trade the babies for some nice corals at my local fish store. INVERTEBRATES In addition to the aforementioned snails, urchin, and Percnon sp. crab, I have a handful of hermit crabs, as well as three Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) and two Lysmata kuekenthali that control my Aiptasia sp. anemones. Although I don’t see these shrimp often, they seem to be doing their job. On the challenging side, I have some typical reef pests that have caused other reefers to give up, including Bryopsis sp. algae and Phenganax parrini. The Bryopsis sp. gets manually removed regularly, and if it takes over, I have fluconazole in the drawer as a backup. It’s a different story with Phenganax parrini. It sits under some Acropora spp., and I can’t reach it properly without ripping my reef

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apart. And that is the last thing I want to do, so I searched for a natural solution. I found that the nudibranch Marionia olivacea is supposed to be a pipe-organ-coral eater. But since this species is also considered a pest, it is not imported very often. Most likely, it arrives as a sidecatch/stowaway. Unfortunately, I have had no success in my 2-year ongoing search for that nudibranch. But hope dies last. SPECIFICATIONS Display: Red Sea REEFER 425XL Lighting: ATI Hybrid (6) 54-watt T5s + (3) 75-watt LEDs Flow: (4) Jebao RW/SW8 Return Pump: Jebao DCP 5000 Skimmer: Deltec 1000i Reactor: Aqua Medic Multireactor M, activated carbon Fine Filtration: Theiling Rollermat Compact 1 PARAMETERS Carbonate Hardness: 8 dKH Calcium: 430 ppm Magnesium: 1,300 ppm Nitrate: 10–20 ppm Phosphate: 0.05–0.1 ppm R

RICHARD ASPINALL

MANGROVES: PLANTS FOR YOUR REEF ECOSYSTEM

want you to try a thought experiment. Take any plant you have in the house or garden and pour salt water on it. How many days do you think it would take for the plant to curl up its leaves and die? Out of all the millions of plants in the world, how many are able to tolerate salty conditions? Salt poses a major and usually terminal threat to the overwhelming majority of plant species, with a few key exceptions, one of them being the wonderful group of plants we call mangroves. First, though, let’s just get a few other plant groups out of the way. I should be clear; I’m not talking about algae here. Marine algae are relatively simple in their biology and a subject for another discussion. I’m talking about what were once known as “higher” plants, those with vascular systems, the tracheophytes. I’m ignoring Caulerpa spp., kelps, wracks, and sargassums. Any botanists who might be reading this may be despairing right now as I gloss over huge chunks of the kingdom Plantae. My apologies.

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Of course, there is an assortment of salt-tolerant species that are adapted to coastal conditions. Certain salt-marsh and sand-dune specialists, for example, have managed to thrive in the in-between world of the intertidal zone, but to me at least, few of these are entirely marine. The great exception, and perhaps the one group of vascular plants that have entirely taken to the marine world, are seagrasses. These wonderful plants, more closely related to lilies than grasses, grow, flower, and live their whole lives entirely under the water’s surface, creating fascinating meadows that harbor everything from seahorses to dugongs. Interestingly, the Green Turtle is so called for the hue given to its flesh by the pigments in its diet of seagrass. Now that we’ve touched on the exceptions, let’s look at the hundred or so species in the loose group known as mangroves, a term that better describes a lifestyle than any biological relationship. As this

is quite a general article, I’ll be talking about plants in the genera Rhizophora and Avicennia, partly because I’ve had the most experience with them in the wild and also because these are the ones you are most likely to come across as aquarists. Mangroves are exceptionally good at colonizing and growing in coastal regions. Left to their own devices, they can create large stands of trees. These stands are slowly creating their own land from what starts as pioneering individuals gaining footholds on rocky shores or silty estuaries. Not only do they tolerate saline conditions, they positively thrive in them, truly deserving the term “halophyte,” literally “salt” and “lover.” So, how do they do it? To prosper as they do, mangroves have had to develop techniques to maintain the salt level within their tissues at a level significantly lower than the waters in which they grow. Not only that, they are also capable of dealing with conditions where the external salt level varies, perhaps with the tide or even rainfall in some tropical regions. It is worth noting that many mangroves can grow in estuaries and thus have to contend with brackish conditions and, on occasion, water with little, if any, salt content. There are two known methods that mangroves use to deal with salt: exclusion at the roots and removal of salt via their leaves.

This reef in the Mediterranean is dominated by Posidonia oceanica.

The first method is a little beyond my understanding of chemistry, but suffice it to say, the sodium and chloride ions are excluded by membranes in the plant’s roots. It’s a lot more complicated than that, but for everyday purposes, imagine them working a little like reverse osmosis filters. While this is not a great analogy by any means, the result is similar. This method is employed by familiar species such as R. mangle and R. mucronata. However, as I understand it, this method doesn’t work perfectly, and some salt is later removed from the plant by shunting it to older leaves, which are then shed. This rain of leaves is much to the delight of various crab species that consume fallen vegetation and serve to help cycle nutrients within the mangrove ecosystem.

This isn’t toleration, these Rhizophora mucronata are thriving!

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A. marina survives hyper-saline conditions on the edges of the Egyptian and Sudanese deserts, creating a welcome oasis for many species, especially crabs like Ocypode saratan (right).

A. marina is a very tolerant mangrove that can survive in harsh conditions.

The other method of dealing with salt is excretion (plants in this group often use root exclusion as well, but not exclusively). This method is exactly as it sounds; salt is secreted through specialized organs on the leaves, with rainfall washing it away. Though for some species living in desert conditions, such as the stand of A. marina pictured above, salt is rarely washed away, and the plants appear pale and distinctly different from their relatives in higherrainfall regions. I assume that’s why this particular species is known as the White Mangrove. Mangrove biology is replete with fascinating details. Personally, I think their method of propagation is one of the most wonderful and a method that evolution has “tweaked” over the ages to create something quite unique. I should add, though, that mangroves do bear a similarity in their dispersal method with coconuts (and to be honest, quite a few other plants from a range of genera, commonly referred to as sea beans), in relying on the oceans to spread their seed. PROPAGULES I’ve just had a look on a well-known, internet-based auction site, and in most cases, mangroves are being sold as “seeds.” Technically, this is quite wrong; what you’re buying is a biologically interesting structure called a propagule. Propagules are perhaps analogous to seeds, but in actuality, they are new, self-contained plants that grow from fertilized seeds but do so on the parent tree. When they reach a certain age and weight, or

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Ocypode saratan

These heart-shaped propagules of A. marina were photographed near the Egyptian/Sudanese border.

through storm action, they fall and disperse with the tides. Some may fall under their parent and grow, while others may survive in the sea for many days, with some species surviving better than others. The next stage in development is the growth of a small root from the pointed lower tip of the propagule, which will, as it penetrates the shoreline, pull the propagule upright before a stem begins to form from the other end. You can often find propagules for sale in this state, already with the beginnings of a root system and a few leaves. They cost a little more but might well be worth it, and of course, it removes the risk of you trying to grow them upside down. On occasion, you can buy plants that are much further developed and resemble the small trees that they become. I hope that these are grown in captivity and not taken from the wild. Once secured, the plants can grow rapidly, putting out side roots to further anchor themselves. Plants under other mature trees may not survive due to competition for light but will contribute to the overall build-up of organic material and sediment. This rapid growth pattern is why mangroves are of significant importance in protecting coastlines from flood damage. Replicating these natural conditions in captivity can be quite easy and fascinating to try for aesthetic reasons alone, if not for the fascination of growing a flowering plant in conditions that would very quickly kill the overwhelming majority of its relatives. Perhaps the easiest method to try is to add several propagules or young plants to a sump or refugium. A typical under-the-tank sump

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offers several possibilities depending on the amount of space available. If an entire sump chamber is free, perhaps try coarse coral sand or coral rubble to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Several propagules can be planted in this way, and they will develop quite nicely. Obviously, you will need to provide bright light and keep the leaves misted with fresh water to keep them free of salt (especially if they are secretors). As time passes, they will develop a complicated root system. One thing to note, though, is that in nature, mangrove roots generally exist in anoxic conditions. If this develops in your system, it is not necessarily a bad thing. Just take care if you disturb the mangroves and their growing medium. I should add here that in the wild, several types of mangroves (A. germinans, for example) grow pneumatophores, which are roots that grow upwards (to the surface), with the function of allowing oxygen to reach the rest of the root mass, which can be very extensive. These are often called “pencil roots” and can create extensive areas of stabilized substrate and surfaces for colonization by algae and therefore food for grazing species. You will also need to trim the mangroves as they grow to keep them compact. Pinching out the main growing tip on each branch will cause them to send out side shoots. Ideally, dead leaves should be removed just before they fall. Consider yourself a keeper of a mangrove bonsai.

These young plants have fetched up amidst a rocky shore.

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This raises the question of whether mangroves can contribute to nutrient export. As ever, this depends not just on how many plants you have but on the size and bioload of the aquarium. Personally, I’d look to other methods of nutrient removal first and view mangroves as at best providing a small degree of assistance. So don’t remove your Chaetomorpha species thinking mangroves are a better solution!

Side roots stabilize the plant and the silt.

I have seen aquaria with refugium tanks attached that feature mangroves, and in the main, they seem a great idea. One such tank that I visited several years back featured an alga and mangrovefilled refugium attached to a more typical reef tank. The owner had designed the system to allow the refugium to segue from his room to his garden, which was filled with tropical plants, providing a “reef to rainforest” feel. It was very impressive. In this scenario, the mangrove plants and propagules were planted in the tank substrate only deep enough to anchor them and prevent them from floating around the tank, though the typically low currents in a refugium tank wouldn’t cause too much of a threat. Exposing the roots in this way will mean that the finer roots formed off the main structural roots will be available to the tank’s inhabitants and can form a complicated habitat onto which macro- and microalgae can grow. This mimics the ecological value of a tangle of mangrove roots in the wild, where countless creatures from sponges to gastropods attach themselves to, and feed on, the roots. It is possible that you might need to trim the roots. This is where mangrove boxes can be useful. These are specially designed plastic units that can hold the bulk of the roots but also allow ample water circulation around them. Any roots that find their way out of the box can be snipped off if they impede water flow too much. In a very healthy refugium, without any fishes perhaps, mangrove roots can form complex environments where filter feeders and micrograzers can thrive. You might consider adding some small crustaceans such as Thor amboinensis or porcelain crabs to this Reef Hobbyist Magazine

This system in a public aquarium used artificial mangrove stems, which is understandable when the fish are your main focus. This aquarium housed a brackish system with mudskippers, scats, and archer fish.

habitat. Hermit crabs can be added sparingly, and you might like to try offering them a rock or two to haul themselves out onto, if the tank is shallow enough. I’ve explored lots of tropical coastlines, and in the main, that’s where the small hermits prefer to live. You will also find that grazing gastropods (as well as some of the more nimble hermits) might use the mangrove stems to rest on. Further to the theme, filter-feeding polychaete worms can be added, as perhaps can hardy gorgonians, though species that are entirely azooxanthellate represent a risk without additional feeding. The very finest captive mangroves are to be found in specialistthemed systems where mangroves are not just added as an afterthought or as an addition to the tank’s functions. They are added from the beginning as the tank’s theme. By far the best mangrove-themed habitat I have seen was at London’s Horniman Museum and Aquarium. A mixture of replica mangrove trunks and younger (and I should add, very healthy) R. mangle and A. germinans mangroves made for a very convincing paludarium. As you can see in the above images, this system is replete with life, including Caulerpa species and photosynthetic gorgonians. Many of the roots support a complex mix of algae, including coralline

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Anableps anableps

species and, by the looks of it, an Aiptasia species as well, which I think isn’t too much of a problem in a system like this. The tank’s other main inhabitants was a pair of Anableps anableps, the wonderfully named four-eyed fish. Due to the shallow water, you were looking down on the fish, meaning you could better observe their upward-looking nature, which made them great additions to the tank. MANGROVES IN CONTEXT In the wild, mangrove habitats are very important as nurseries for young fish species, many of which find their way to a life on the reef as they grow. The conservation value of mangroves shouldn’t be ignored, nor should their value for commercial fisheries. Not only do mangroves help provide the fish that migrate to the reef, they also help by trapping particulates and processing nutrients that help maintain healthy reefs. Indeed, where mangroves are removed for development and aquaculture, the nearby reefs typically suffer a severe loss of species diversity. I hope that I have managed to convey a little of my interest in mangroves. I hope also that by considering trying to create a small amount of mangrove forest, or simply growing a few specimens, you’ll remember what role they play in the wild. While the rate of mangrove loss has slowed in recent years, the extent of mangrove forests is still declining. R

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