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STAYCATION Adventure awaits, right here at home
IN SEASON seasonal recipes guaranteed to warm the heart
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA
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In this issue
FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS STAYCATION TRAVEL TREND: 18 Make your next destination just down the road and discover adventure right here at home.
18 URBAN EXPOLORER 30
IN EVERY ISSUE 6 10 18 52 59 60 64 66
Publisher’s Note What's in Store Travel & Leisure What’s to Eat Dining Guide Wine Column Cast a Line Why I Love Washington
FROZEN IN TIME: Jack Willard’s quest is to preserve Washington’s past amidst continuing progress.
30 LOVE OF NATURE 38
STILL LIFE: Local photographer captures the beauty of home and the diversity of its wild creatures.
38 TALES FROM TERRY 44
CAMPFIRE STORIES: Longtime storyteller Terry Rollins shares the magic of spinning a yarn around the fire on an autumn evening.
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ON THE COVER The People’s Pier on the downtown Washington waterfront makes for a picturesque destination by day or night. Read more about “Staycations” on page 18. (Vail Stewart Rumley)
A NOTE FROM ASHLEY
THIS FALL,
discover what’s right next door
A
global pandemic has hit the tourism industry hard in 2020. Those who love to travel are staying at home instead, but when you live in place others consider a vacation destination, it might not be such a hardship. What’s trending in travel this year is the idea of the “staycation,” and residents of Washington, and greater Beaufort County, already know there is plenty to explore right here at home. From fishing adventures to culinary ones, paddling the waterways to picking a riverside spot to watch a spectacular sunset, staying in a Victorian mansion or a downtown apartment, there are plenty of ways to “get away, without going too far away.” Learn more about where, and how, to make your “staycation” memorable on page 18. Washington’s history is in no danger of disappearing as long as people like Jack Willard are documenting the evolution of the local buildings. The Washington native is part photographer and part historian, with an emphasis on urban exploration. Get a view of Willard’s discoveries and some of the treasures that exist behind closed doors on page 30. There’s no need to travel far to find the beauty of the natural world. Beaufort County, and the refuges of eastern North Carolina, have much to offer in the way of wildlife. Read about how photographer Paul Harding has made it his hobby, and his mission, to capture wild moments and share the circumstances of those encounters on page 38. The land and the waters give throughout the year, and so do some of the best cooks the area has to offer. See what’s in season, and the recipes that turn Beaufort County bounty into delicious dishes, in “What’s to Eat” on page 52. Local fishermen know what lies beneath the waters of the Pamlico and Pungo rivers. On page 64, fishing guide Richard Andrews shares what gives our waterways the title of a world-class fishery, drawing people from across the country in search of a big catch. The September/October issue of Washington the Magazine invites readers to explore: inside the pages of this magazine from the comfort of home, and the wonders surrounding us outside should you choose to go on “staycation.”
Ashley Vansant, Publisher
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Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine. 6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Matt Debnam Vail Stewart Rumley Contributors Richard Andrews Ric Carter Paul Harding Mary Mehlich Jack Willard Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Kristen Smith Scott Williamson Distribution Kim Riggs Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2020, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.
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Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED
b.
a.
October Harvest Create a pumpkin patch on the porch with a wide variety of pumpkin and gourd decorations from NautiLife in downtown Washington. Celebrate the harvest in this colorful decor (a.) for $15.95. Add a bit of the rustic with these charming wood pumpkins (b.) starting at $8.95.
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Black sheep Say “baaah” with sassy tea towels that add the touch of cheeky humor your kitchen needs. No one will question your roost when a towel says it all. Find these tea towels (c.) $8.95 in downtown Washington at NautiLife.
c.
f. d.
Aroma of autumn Floral sachets fill with a variety of scents keep your drawers, closets or other small spaces smelling fresh all season long. Find Greenleaf floral scented envelopes, (f.) $1 each in downtown Washington at Cottage Junkies.
e.
Take a sip Enjoy the outdoors with a tap by your side. Whether you’re enjoying the crisp autumn air on your patio or adding a rustic vibe to the kitchen, this stone tap adds function and elegance (d.) $120. Pair the tap with bullet whiskey glasses (e.) $20.95. Find these items at NautiLife in downtown Washington. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11
Repurposed elegance Oyster Candle Company incorporates the Pamlico’s favorite fall delicacy into a sophisticated wood-burning candle (g.) for $24.95. Find these candles at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington.
g.
The legend h.
Many may know him as a myth, others as a man, but a special few know him as Dad. Give Dad something he’ll use all season long as he embarks on outdoor adventures (h.) $24.95.
BBQ Season A favorite southern pastime of every season, but especially the fall, is the traditional barbecue. Corndog’s Barbecue Sauce is the perfect pair with your savory favorites (i.) $9.95, and can be found in downtown Washington at Cottage Junkies.
i.
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Handmade artistry Washington has no shortage of local artists, including those crafting beautiful pieces of handmade jewelry. Find colorful, dangling earrings made from brass and paper (j.) $35, or have some fun with a pair of banner earrings (k.) $12. Handmade ornaments made from cork add a bit of whimsy to the coming holidays (l.) $8. All are crafted by Meredith Loughlin, of Lone Leaf Gallery. Or add this vintage-inspired broach, made by Juilanna Swaney, to a favorite outfit (m.) $25. All of these charming gifts can be found at Lone Leaf Gallery and Framing in downtown Washington.
l.
m.
k. j.
o.
n.
Falling for boots
Gold leaf
Find boots that are made for walking at Southern Grace Boutique. These suede ankle boots pair perfectly with jeans or dresses alike to complete a fashionable fall outfit, (n.) $38.
Leaves are falling, colors are changing and the air is turning crisp. The delicate leaves on this necklace at Southern Grace Boutique evoke the change of a new season, (o.) $14.
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r.
q.
s.
Best friends Pets occupy a special place in our hearts. Celebrate that love in style with the mugs that share those exact thoughts, (q.) $18.95 – $22.95. The perfect hiding place for treats can be found in their own cookie jar (r.) $31.95. Find the purrrr-fect decor for cat lovers with a mirrored cat trinket, (s.) $7.95. All these animal-loving pieces can be found at NautiLife in downtown Washington.
p.
Waterproof cute Stay cute and comfy with rubber boots perfect for rainy and colder weather. Find these boots,(p.) $42, and more at Southern Grace Boutique in downtown Washington.
t.
Quilted ruffles Need a quilted look-a-like of your best furry friend? Give them a place in your autumn decor or as your dog’s a new, favorite toy, (t.) $7.95 –$11.95. Quilted dogs can be found in downtown Washington at NautiLife.
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WASHINGTON HARBOR DISTRICT
FINDING THE RIGHT POLICIES FOR YOU!
TRAVEL & LEISURE
The downtown Washington waterfront and boardwalk offer visitors and residents alike the opportunity to take a riverside stroll and discover the local wildlife.
S T A Y C A T I O N
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DESTINATION: HOME LOCATION: BEAUFORT COUNTY DISTANCE: 0 MILES TIME: 0 MINUTES
Trend or not, plenty of adventure awaits right here at home WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
W
hen the new year of 2020 rang in, it was full of possibilities — the calendar a clean slate of travel and adventure in the coming year. Four months into 2020, however, the reality of a global pandemic and staying close to home set in: trips long-planned, canceled; events on the books, postponed indefinitely. The travel industry ground to a sluggish pace, but that sluggish pace has resulted in a growing appreciation for what’s right here at home.
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Where you live, it’s easy to overlook the beauty of the landscape and adventures that await; they’re often relegated to the periphery by busy work and social lives. But when forced to slow down, when travel to distant places is no longer an option, the idea of finding a new perspective on home gains ground. As the year progressed, a new trend began to emerge. “Staycations” became less of “maybe someday” to a real possibility, a way to “get away, without going too far.” What’s not too far? Plenty. Rivers and creeks, gorgeous
sunrises and sunsets, a state park, places to fish and to swim, waterfront boardwalks and parks, dining and shopping in local businesses owned by local people, farmers markets, ecotours, guided fishing tours, friendly people and quaint small-town charm. These are the things that bring countless visitors to Beaufort County every year. Some come for a weekend; others decide this is the place they want to call home. So if you’re looking to get away without going too far away, here are a few places to start. ⋇
B A T H Beaufort County lays claim to the oldest town in the state of North Carolina, and its oldest church, St. Thomas Episcopal Church, once the home of the state’s only library. Bath holds an interesting place in history: it was once the home of the notorious pirate Blackbeard. On the macabre side of that fact is the pirate’s head was returned to Bath to be displayed as proof of death by the British soldiers who ultimately killed him in a battle off of Ocracoke. That was more than three centuries ago. Today, Bath is a small hamlet with historic houses lining walkable, tree-lined streets and beautiful views of the creek that, centuries ago, was one of the busiest ports in the new world.
Home of Blackbeard, Bath regularly celebrates being the homeplace of the notorious 18th-century pirate.
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Tar-Pam Guide Service owner Richard Andrews knows where to fish and how to do it in the tricky local waterways.
ADVENTURE AWAITS This sleepy town has quite a few adventures in store. You can take to the air in a hot-air balloon ride with IBX Balloon Flights, or take to the water on a kayak or paddleboard and try your hand at skiing or wakeboarding with Wake2Wake Watersports. As for fishing, and how to do so locally, look no farther than a local pro: Richard Andrews. Andrews, owner of Tap-Pam Guide Service, has led fishing adventures out of Bath for 10 years, and chose eastern North Carolina as his home and the home of his business because of the year-round, world-class fishing to be found on the local waterways. His clientele comes from all over, including right here at home. “I get a fair number of local people — retirees, people who have been here awhile, even people who’ve grown up here,” Andrews said. “We have good fishing, but it has a fairly steep learning curve. They hire me to lessen the curve and to jumpstart their fishing game in our area. I’ve kind of become a teacher. Some guys are kind of secretive and don’t want to say anything, but I’m pretty forthcoming about how to fish here.” Offering half-day, three-quarter day or full-day fishing adventures, Andrews is busy fishing, and teaching people how to fish, the local waters year-round. “Really, we go all over the place, because it’s always a moving target,” Andrews said.
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SPEND THE NIGHT Bath has 10 Airbnb listings in town proper and at nearby, waterfront Bayview, ranging from single rooms to entire homes on the water. Situated on South Main Street is the Inn on Bath Creek, a comfortable bed & breakfast decorated with coastal charm and a nautical bent.
The Inn on Bath Creek makes for a comfortable stay in North Carolina’s oldest town. 22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
The view from the Marina House room at River Forest Manor.
B E L H A V E N Belhaven was in the national spotlight nearly a century ago when it played host to a giant party celebrating the completion of the Intracoastal Waterway, a safehaven for boat traffic down the entire East Coast. Situated on the last leg of the ICW’s completion, the town remains a popular stopping point for sailors making their way north in the summers and south to the Bahamas and Caribbean in the winters. With a rich farming and fishing history, this low-lying town has a view straight down the Pungo River to the Pamlico Sound. “I think there’s certainly something to be said about enjoying what’s in your own backyard and taking advantage of the wonderful resources that we have in our community,” said Lynn Davis, Belhaven’s town manager. “I call it that ‘I get to live other people’s vacations.’ We have friends, we call them weekenders, that come down from the city for the weekend to go fishing, boating, kayaking.” Belhaven’s small downtown, with its galleries, dining and shopping, is a draw, but for those who enjoy the natural beauty of the Inner Banks, Belhaven makes for an ideal “staycation.” “I’m pretty sure there are no better sunsets than on the Pamlico and on the Pungo rivers,” Davis said.
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SPEND THE NIGHT With more than 20 Airbnbs listed in Belhaven and the surrounding area, and several bed & breakfasts operating in the town, there’s no shortage of places to spend the night, or the weekend, in Belhaven. One standout is the River Forest Manor and Marina, the waterfront mansion commissioned by John A. Wilkerson in 1899 and completed in 1904. A true turn-of-the-century marvel, this palatial home features 11 fireplaces, surrounded by carved oak mantels and decorative tile inlays, crystal chandeliers, wainscoting and coffered ceilings. In 2014, it was restored to its former glory by a group of local investors, and its nine manor rooms, three Bungalow House rooms and one Marina House room offer a luxurious stay.
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DINING OUT In the past several years, Belhaven has become a dining destination for locals and out-of-towners alike, with several downtown restaurants drawing gourmets from near and far. Of note are Spoon River Artwork and Market, the Tavern at Jack’s Neck and Fish Hooks, a casual dining venue with seafood beyond compare, according to Davis. “All of their seafood is North Carolina-sourced. They’re seafood selection is top shelf,” Davis said. “The crab cakes there, in my opinion, are the best I have ever had anywhere — and that’s the type of thing I order when I go anywhere.”
ADVENTURE AWAITS Named for the Native Americans that once made their home on the shores of the Pungo River, Machapunga Ecotours offers visitors the opportunity to explore the local waterways. On the 25-foot shallow draft boat Delilah and 20-foot aluminum jon boat Sugaree, owner Peter Boettger provides a window into the local ecology, and educational tour wrapped up in fun: crabbing, discovering a seine nets’ catch, spotting dolphins feeding or at play and bird-watching opportunities galore. River Forest Manor’s rooms take advantage of the view down the Pungo River to the Pamlico Sound.
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Kayaking or paddle boarding can introduce even the most familiar visitor to the beauty of the Pamlico River, and a Washington landmark, the railroad trestle, at sunset.
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W A S H I N G T O N Tourism has long been big business for Washington, with many visitors enamored with the charm to be found in a staple of the South: a small, bustling downtown in the middle of a historic district, with the added bonus of a waterfront boardwalk and parks. While the impact of COVID-19 has meant fewer people visiting from far-off places, Washington Tourism and Development Authority Executive Director Erin Ruyle said that gap is being partially filled by people visiting from not-so-far-off places. “We get a lot of research from the state tourism office, and that’s one of the trends we’re seeing,” Ruyle said. “I think people have a lot of pent-up desire to travel. People want to get out but not go too far, are trying to stay in a comfort zone and know the community is taking the property safety precautions.” In that sense, “staycations” have another moniker: “safe-cations.” Washington offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy its history, its shops and dining and waterfront, without the crowds, and within the comfort zones of visitors and residents alike.
ADVENTURE AWAITS The idea of adventure varies from person to person. For some, an adventure might be something as simple as grabbing an ice-cream cone and watching the sunset, perched on one of several gently rocking swings located along the waterfront, or marveling at the turtles and geese populating the wetlands beneath the boardwalk. For others, it could mean making a reservation to hop aboard a pontoon boat for a North Carolina Estuarium River Roving Tour to learn about the local waterways. Others might prefer a closer look at nature, renting a paddle board or kayak to spend the day exploring. All options and more are available in Washington. “The waterfront, the ability to experience recreational opportunities without getting close to people, and still supporting local businesses — whether it’s take out, outdoor dining or shopping,” Ruyle said. “I really do think that will be trend, from what we’ve seen. Until there’s a viable vaccine or the virus goes down a bit, I see staycation.”
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DINING OUT A stroll to the downtown historic business district and beyond provides many options for dining in Washington. From the cultural food experience of The Hackney to the outdoor, island-time culinary adventure at Backwater Jack’s Tiki Bar and Grill, Washington’s restaurants not only appeal to all tastes, but are accommodating diners, and state recommendations. For the effort, Ruyle says local businesses deserve local support. “Tourism and travel htave kind of ground to a halt so I would love for the community to support the local Airbnbs, restaurants and small businesses in ways they’re comfortable with,” Ruyle said.
Fine dining can be found at several venues in downtown Washington, including The Hackney. 28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
SPEND THE NIGHT With 21 Airbnbs listed in Washington and a bed & breakfast that is a part of Washington’s immense history, there is no shortage of interesting places stay. Ranging from single rooms in historic homes to an entire upstairs apartment with a view of the waterfront, there is ample opportunity to get away from it all — even if getting away from it all is only a couple of miles away. “Staying at one of the Airbnbs or the bed & breakfast Elmwood, gives people the element of comfort that they don’t have to stay in a big box hotel,” Ruyle said. At Elmwood 1820, there’s no better place to social distance than on the Italianate porch that sprawls across the front and east sides of the circa-1820 home. Featuring comfortable seating areas where guests can enjoy breakfast, an evening glass of champagne or a high tea service, the B&B combines history and luxury in the heart of the historic district.
One of two bedrooms in the Airbnb “318 on the River” in downtown Washington’s historic district. The upstairs apartment has a view of the waterfront and downtown dining is just a minute’s walk away.
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U R B A N E X P LO R E R Photographer documents Washington’s past amidst progress
O
WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK WILLARD ver the course of centuries, buildings have come and gone in Beaufort County. At times, they are left to decay to the point they are no longer habitable. In other cases, new owners realize their potential, and pour resources into making the old like new again. In both cases, part of the past character of these structures is lost to time. That’s something Jack Willard doesn’t want to see happen. Armed with his camera and an adventurous spirit, he has a knack for gaining access to often unseen places hiding in plain sight. His goal is simple — documenting what these places look like before they’re changed or gone, so that future generations will have a better sense of the area’s history. “I do it because people need to preserve what there is,” Willard said. “The history slips away and there’s nothing to show for it. I want to feel like 50 years from now, when I’m gone, somebody will have pictures to look back on and say, ‘Well, dang, that’s what that looked like, that’s what this was and that’s what that was.” He says sometime gaining access is as easy as shaking hands with the property owner, explaining what he’s doing and taking a stroll through the old buildings. As downtown Washington’s buildings continue to undergo a period of renovation and transformation, now is the time to do it. “We’re on the cusp of big renovation,” Willard said. “When the current projects are done, the whole downtown is going to take a completely different look. There are people who are coming into our community who are not from here and don’t remember what it looked like. They will embrace what the new looks like. In the meantime, they should be allowed to know what the old looks like, and maybe that will give them a deeper appreciation of what we’re about.” In the course of his adventures in history, Willard has amassed a large collection of historical photographs, documents and other memorabilia that speaks to Washington as it once was. In some cases, he shares and displays those items online, via his Facebook group “You Know You’re From Beaufort County When…” In doing so, he’s become intimately familiar with downtown’s structures and their stories. “I find their little secrets that have been undiscovered for years; the public doesn’t get access so I try to share it,” Willard said in a 2018 interview with the Washington Daily News’ late Kevin Scott Cutler. “I don’t want this town’s legacy to become nothing but historical markers.”
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PHOTO BY Ric Carter
I don’t want this town’s legacy to become nothing but historical markers. — JACK WILLARD
Long unseen by the public eye, the upper floors of the Bowers Building were once home to thriving retail enterprises, first as the Bower Brothers Department Store, and then as the original home of Belk-Tyler in the city.
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BOWERS BUILDING Originally constructed in 1914 by brother merchants Augustus Bowers and Benjamin Bowers, the building at 158 W. Main St. holds many happy shopping memories for generations of Washington residents. While Bowers Brothers Department store first occupied the building, Belk-Tyler began operating out of the building in 1936, at the same time renovating the space. “They redid everything inside,” Willard said. “There are some of the features of the building that are still there. There’s a conveyer belt that runs up the back of the building to the third floor. That was to bring goods up to storage, and the second floor became Santa Land.” After Belk-Tyler moved across the street to the old Keys Hotel in the 1950s, Woolworth set up shop in the Bowers Building. When Belk-Tyler moved to the Washington Square Mall in 1973, and Woolworth later closed, and the building was vacant. “With the departure of Belk from downtown and Woolworth’s leaving, those were the last two chain stores in downtown Washington,” Willard said. “Everything has become what it is because there are no more chain stores downtown.” In the mid-2000s, the building was renovated and converted into the Inner Banks Artisans’ Center, a studio space for local artists. In 2015, the building was sold at auction, eventually becoming the Suites at 158, a collection of shops and salons on the first floor.
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HOTEL LOUISE A landmark of downtown Washington, the Hotel Louise has seen better days, to say the least. Just a few years back, the then-owners approached the city regarding the possibility of demolishing the circa-1903 building. In its heyday, however, the building was a destination for Washington visitors. The earliest guests arrived at its doors via horse and carriage, as cars had not yet become widely accessible. The building dates to a time when Main Street was still The horse and carriages would dirt. “My dad told me stories of when the trains used to come into show up to the depot to pick up the Atlantic depot,” Willard recalled. “The horse and carriages would people that were staying and show up to the depot to pick up people that were staying and drive them down to the Keys and Louise Hotel, as well as another boarding drive them down to the Keys and house that was the Patrician Inn, which was behind where Market Louise Hotel... Street Pub is now.” Throughout the years, the hotel played host to large events and — JACK WILLARD honeymoons, with visitors coming to Washington from all across the country. Willard says the building once housed a restaurant and was equipped with a steam press to better serve guests. “People up and down the East Coast knew where the Louise Hotel was,” Willard said. “It was a big deal then. There were big events there, and that was a high mark in downtown Washington.” The decline of the Hotel Louise, however, came in the 1980s, after its floors were subdivided and turned into low-income housing. Since the last occupants left the building, the hotel has been the subject of on-againoff-again renovation efforts, none of which, so far, have come to fruition. “When I first photographed inside the Louise Hotel, the lobby was filled with little cook stoves and tiny refrigerators,” Willard recalled. “Those big nice rooms on the second, third and fourth floors were all turned into little one-bedroom apartments.” ⋇
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STILL LIFE Local photographer captures the beauty of home WRITTEN BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL HARDING
Paul Harding has a love affair with nature. “I have a personal bias toward anything that flies or swims or crawls,” he laughs. Capturing the nature surrounding us has become a passion for Harding. Armed with a Canon body and a 150-600 mm lens, he spends many hours quietly watching life in the woods and fields and along the lakes and rivers of eastern North Carolina. Harding says his lack of computer knowledge means the only way he alters his photos is to crop them. “I just upload them to the computer and crop, then hit ‘enhance image’ and let the computer do what’s it’s going to do and that’s good enough for me,” Harding said. The results, pictured, are a glimpse into the lives hidden everywhere around us. 38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
NUTRIA, WASHINGTON, JUNE 2020 “They’re actually in the pond in front of my house. In the summer, the pond is covered in algae and not 15 feet from the pond is the swamp, and they’re connected by a culvert. They swim back and forth and back and forth; they come and eat the algae. There’s an entire family of them. They brought the kids, I guess. It’s cool, because I can literally sit on my front lawn and take pictures of them. … They’re destructive creatures, but they’re really cute even though they’re ugly critters.” SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39
BARRED OWL, ALLIGATOR RIVER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, JULY 2020 “For the last two or three months, there’s been a family of barred owls there, all hanging out at pretty much the same spot on the refuge and are much photographed. They just sit there and watch the canal and dive down and grab a crayfish, then fly back up to their branch and eat it. They’re very tolerant of all the people and the cameras. It’s gorgeous to hear them talking amongst themselves. They’re lovely little creatures. I think they’re awesome.” 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
BLACK BEAR, POCOSIN LAKES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, PUNGO UNIT, MARCH 2020 “It walked out of the woods across the gravel road into that drainage area to swim across that and get into the next lot. Cool, cool, cool, just to sit there and wait for them to come out of the words, because you know they’re coming about 7:30 in the morning. They’re very sort of reliably seen at that location because they’re feeding all night, then during the day they’re going back into the Pocosin to their bedding areas.”
I have a personal bias toward anything that flies or swims or crawls. — PAUL HARDING
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YOUNG COYOTE, POCOSIN LAKES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, PUNGO UNIT, LATE JULY 2020 “This was taken pretty much in the same location as the bear. That was an unexpected encounter. As I’m walking along, I looked up and happened to see two coyotes. I decided to just sit there, get off my bike, and just sit in the grass. Then I heard them talking to other coyotes, but I couldn’t see where they were. I turned around, and there was this little one right behind me. He was quite brazen. He just sat there and looked at me, I don’t know if he’d ever seen a human before. While I was sitting there he walked right toward me. I just loved him, because it was such an unexpected encounter.” 42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
POSSUM AND JOEYS, POCOSIN LAKES NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE, PUNGO UNIT, MARCH 2020
“Again, that was right here on this refuge where I spend half my life. That was in a field that had not yet been planted. I was definitely not looking for them, but I was walking along the edge of the field, and something caught my eye in the middle of the field. I saw it was a possum but didn’t see the little ones on the back. It saw me and sort of scurried off, but they’re not very fast creatures. I’d never seen that before. I’d seen possums, but never seen them with the babies on the back, so that was a first. That was very exciting for me. It was just a good thrill.”
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TELLING tales FALL BRINGS CAMPFIRE STORIES TO LIFE WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
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s the weather cools and crisp autumn breezes fill the air, there’s nothing quite like a campfire to knock off the chill. Throughout the years, the campfire has become a place for friends and families to eat, drink and be merry. It’s also a place where many a story has been told, reflecting our deepest hopes, dreams and fears. Everywhere he goes, Terry Rollins tells such stories, campfire or no. Growing up in a southern family, he says much of his youth was spent listening to the adults in his life trade tales, be it at the kitchen table, family gatherings or front porches. Listening to those stories, he had the gift of being able to remember them. “From there, when you major in library science and work as a youth service librarian, story time is a big part of who you are,” Rollins said. “That story time then kind of led to storytelling, where I just wanted to put the book down because I knew the story so well, and just tell the story to children or adults, whoever it might be.” A few decades back, Rollins found that he was not alone in his passion for spinning a good yarn. Throughout North Carolina and the rest of the country, storytelling was becoming more and more popularized, with groups and events dedicated to the craft. “This was during the time of the big storytelling revival that was taking place nationally in the late ’70s and early ’80s,” Rollins said. “I found out that Wake County had a big storytelling event for children every year, and I was invited to be a part of that. I joined 20 or 30 other storytellers that day who were in a big park with tents set up, and we just told stories to kids as they came around in groups. I just fell in love with it.” Rollins then found himself attending several small storytelling festivals before going the mother of all storytelling events — the National Storytelling Festival in Jonesborough, Tennessee, where thousands of people gather to listen to storytellers from all around the world. That experience fanned the flames of his passion for the craft. He and several friends went on to found the North Carolina Storytelling Guild, an organization still active today. “Storytelling evolved as a way of life, to communicate with one another and remember the events that had happened within the tribe or the community,” Rollins said. “Many people say storytelling is the oldest art form that ever was, but in its truest sense, it was just a way to remember that battle or to remember that plague or whatever happened in that community at the time. I think that’s still important.” While telling storytelling may seem intimidating at first, it doesn’t have to be a formal thing. Rollins says the key is remembering major characters and events, adding color as one proceeds. “Practice definitely makes perfect, but storytelling in its truest self is just sharing with another person,” Rollins said. “Be true to what you’re feeling and what you know. If you’re memorizing a story, just remember the major characters and events. If you can narrow a story down to one or two sentences, you know exactly what that story is about and then you can embellish and add to it from there.” As for inspiration, books upon books of lore and legend are available at one’s local library, just waiting for the aspiring storyteller to bring them home and share their contents in the glow of an autumn fire.
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“TAILYPO” As told by Terry Rollins
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long time ago, up in the mountains of North Carolina, up where the tallest mountain peaks where North Carolina reaches over and touches Tennessee, there lived an old man. The old man lived in a cabin on the side of one of those mountains, the very cabin he had been born in, so many years ago. There were no neighbors close by, no houses, no villages or towns, for this was a long time ago. This old man lived alone in that cabin. He’d never taken a wife or raised any children of his own — he just lived alone in that cabin on the side of the mountain. He did have three hunting dogs who lived three with him, and their names were Ino, Uno and Cumnicocalico — strangest names I’ve ever heard for dogs. But a long time ago, you needed hunting dogs. There weren’t grocery stores, so you had to go out hunting for your food. This old man was a good hunter. Every day he would get his gun, and he and those dogs would go out and travel up and down the mountains, looking for a squirrel or a deer or a bear — something that they could bring back for food and clothing. This man knew not to waste any part of an animal. One morning in late autumn, when the leaves had fallen off the trees and the air was crisp and cold, the old man woke up and looked outside his window. There was only one window in that cabin, mind you, and he could see that the wind was howling and the clouds were rolling in, and he knew a big storm was coming up. Now in autumn in the mountains of North Carolina, a big storm could bring snow that time of year. So the old man knew that he needed to get himself together and go out hunting, for if a storm came up, he might be in that cabin for a number of days. First he went to the kitchen part of the cabin to see if there was any food. He opened drawers and cabinets, and couldn’t find anything to eat, even a crust of bread. He found a little bit of coffee, so he made himself a big cup and drank it down. He grabbed his shotgun, opened up the front door of the cabin, and the wind was already so strong it nearly lifted him off of his feet. He whistled to the three dogs and Ino, Uno and Cumnicocalico came out from under the porch and off they went hunting. Up and down the mountains, they traveled all day long. But at the end of the day, they came back to that cabin emptyhanded. They hadn’t seen one single animal, not even a bird in the sky. It was as if the animals knew a storm was coming, and they’d already hidden themselves away. The dogs went back under the porch, and the old man came back into the cabin, brushed his sleeves off and put the shotgun away. He was so powerfully hungry. He built the fire back up and began to look for something,
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anything he could eat, but just as it was in the morning, there was no food to be found. He sat in his rocking chair by the fireplace warming himself, and that’s when he heard it. Underneath the floor, the planks of his cabin, it sounded like some kind of animal had gotten under there. Something was scratching and clawing, as if it were trying to get up there in the cabin. Then in one of the big cracks of the floor, he saw it. First he saw two little furry ears stick up, and they were attached to a furry face that had eyes like fire. As it crawled up fully into his cabin, that head was attached to a big body that looked kind of like a cat. It had long, sharp claws, and on the end of that animal was a long, skinny tail — not like a cat’s tail, but more like a possum’s tail, with no hair on it at all. The creature looked at the old man with its fiery eyes, raised a claw and hissed at him. The old man said, “Get out of here! Get out of my cabin now!” He reached over and grabbed his old rusty hatchet that he used to chop wood and began to chase that cat around, trying to get it out of his home. It jumped up on the windowsill of that one window, and just as it leaped out of the window, the old man raised the hatchet and threw it. WHACK! He cut the cat’s tail clean off and it let out a yell as it ran down the mountainside. He took a candle and there was that tail, wiggling on the floor like a snake. The more he looked at that tail, the better it looked — he was powerfully hungry and hadn’t eaten all day. That old cat’s tail might be pretty good. So he got a pot of water, placed the cat’s tail in it, hung it over the fire and he waited. For over an hour he waited as that tail moved around, wiggling, squirming and splashing in the boiling water. He reckoned when it stopped moving, it was ready to eat. He reached in, pulled it out, opened up its mouth and swallowed it down. He knowed that cat tail was done, but it sure felt like it was wiggling around in his belly now. So he decided he should best go to sleep. As soon as his head hit the pillow, he was sound asleep, but he was only asleep for a minute or two before he heard something that woke him up. It was something outside, something scratching and clawing against the trees. Then he heard this strange voice floating through the air, and it sounded like it said: “Meowwwwww.”
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He sat up and rubbed his eyes and heard a voice, half human, half animal, that said, “Tailypo. Tailypo. I want my tailypo.” He sat up in bed and thought it might just be a nightmare. He looked out the window and didn’t see anything out there. So he crawled back in his cornshuck bed and before he could fall asleep, he heard it again. This time it was clear, outside of the window. It sounded like something scratching, clawing against the side of his cabin. And for the second time, he heard the voice say, “Meowwwwww. Tailypo. Tailypo. I want my tailypo.” The old man threw off his covers, ran to the front door and called out for those dogs, “Ino! Uno! Cumnicocalico! Go get that thing now!” Those old dogs came to life, raised up and chased that cat down the mountain, out of sight. Those dogs would take care of that cat, yes indeed. He sat on his bed and pulled the covers up around him and waited for the dogs to come back. Pretty soon he heard something up on the front porch, but it said, “Meowwwwww. Tailypo. Tailypo. I want my tailypo.” The old man swallowed hard. He lay down on his pillow and pulled the covers up to his chin, listening and waiting. All was quiet until he heard something at the foot of his bed, like something scratching and clawing. He pulled the covers down just enough to see, and he saw two furry ears, a furry face with eyes like fire and a furry body like a big cat, with long, sharp claws. And on the end of that cat, where there ought to be a tail, there was nothing but a bloody stump. That cat crawled its way up onto the bed, slowly across the covers, like a panther in the night, until it sat on the old man’s stomach. It looked at him with those fiery eyes and said, “TAILYPO. TAILYPO. I WANT MY TAILYPO!” The old man yelled, “I ain’t got it! Get out of my cabin now! I don’t have your tailypo!” But the animal stopped, sniffed the air and placed its ear on the old man’s belly and said, “Yes, you do have my tailypo.” And with that, that cat jumped in the air and came down claws first on the old man’s belly. The old man screamed, but only once. And outside, the wind blew like a hurricane. They say if you go up on those mountain peaks, where North Carolina reaches over to touch Tennessee, if you go in autumn time, way back where there was an old man’s cabin, there’s nothing but an old stone chimney to remind you of where the cabin stood. They say that if you’re up there alone, you’ll hear something up there that says: “Meowwwwww. Tailypo. Tailypo. I got my tailypo.” ⋇
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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49
WHAT'S TO EAT
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IN SEASON Seven seasonal recipes guaranteed to warm the heart WRITTEN BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOGRAPHS AND FOOD PREP BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
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eaves are beginning to turn. The days are getting shorter, nighttime brings a crispness to the air and, with it, things are heating up in the kitchen. Heartier dinners are what’s in store as we head into fall and winter. The land and waterways continue to provide, and each of these recipes featured takes advantage of the season with what’s still growing and being harvested locally. Cabbage, sweet potatoes, spinach, butternut squash — these vegetables are just a small sampling of what can be found in the fields and at the farmers market. Planning a fall, outdoor barbecue with the family? Consider adding Alice Paul’s Apple Cabbage Coleslaw to the menu. Tangy lemon and tart apples will be the perfect foil for some downhome eastern North Carolina barbecue. September means local oysters from a bit farther east are back in season. Give those chilly fall nights a little heat with Julie Hoell’s recipe for oysters broiled on the shell with bleu cheese and bacon. Make a special meal all the more so with Virginia Jenks’ Sweet Potato Cheesecake. Luxuriously rich, this dessert will finish any meal with just the right amount of sweetness, especially if you top it off with some homemade whipped cream. This fall, take advantage of the season with these delicious, seasonal recipes — straight from the kitchens of some of the best cooks in Beaufort County and guaranteed to fill the stomach and warm the soul. Cookbooks can be purchased from the various churches and nonprofits featured. ⋇
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CAULIFLOWER CRUST PIZZA Liane Harsh 2 cups cauliflower, riced; 1 1/3 cups mozzarella cheese, shredded; 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese; 1 egg; 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning; 1/8 teaspoon salt; 1/2 cup tomato sauce; toppings of your choice. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place riced cauliflower into a microwave-safe dish, uncovered. Microwave for 10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Let cool, then mix in the 1/3 cup mozzarella, Parmesan, egg, Italian seasoning and salt. Form cauliflower mixture into a circle, about 1/4-inch thick, onto a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake until edges are golden-brown, about 20 minutes. Top crust with tomato sauce, remaining mozzarella and toppings of choice. Bake until cheese is melted, about seven to 10 minutes. Yield: two servings. (*Cook’s note: It really tastes just like pizza, but without all the carbohydrates. The fun part of this recipe is you can make whatever adjustments you need to create your perfect pizza. Some of the pizzas from this photoshoot included: pepperoni, green pepper, red onion and black olives; baby spinach, arugula, homegrown cherry tomatoes and fresh mozzarella; artichoke, arugula, black olive and fresh mozzarella with pesto instead of tomato sauce; and fresh mozzarella, basil, cherry tomatoes and arugula. The options, and the deliciousness, are limitless!) This recipe is an adaption of Optavia’s Lean and Green Cauliflower Crust Pepperoni Pizza.
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BROCCOLI CASSEROLE Nancy Waters, Judy Respess “The Terra Ceia Cookbook No. 2” The Ladies Auxiliary of the Terra Ceia Christian School, Pantego 2 boxes frozen chopped broccoli; 1 cup mayonnaise; 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated; salt and pepper to taste; 1 can cream of mushroom soup; two eggs, beaten; 1 medium onion, chopped; 1/2 stick butter or margarine; 1/2 package Pepperidge Farm stuffing. Cook broccoli about 20 minutes, until tender. Drain. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine soup, mayonnaise, salt, pepper and onion. Add the broccoli. Place in an 8-inch square pan, and sprinkle with cheese. Melt butter and add to stuffing, then pour over the other ingredients. Cover and bake for 45 minutes.
MASHED BUTTERNUT SQUASH Eddy Browning “Keys to the Kitchen, Gracefully ReKeyed” St. Peter’s Episcopal Church, Washington 2 medium butternut squash, 4-to-5 pounds; 6 tablespoons unsalted butter; 1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed; 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt; 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; 1/4 cup half-and-half. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut off and discard the ends of the butternut squash. Peel the squash, cut them in half, length-wise, and remove seeds. Cut the squash into 3/4-inch cubes and place them on a jelly roll pan. Add the melted butter, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Toss all ingredients together and spread in a single layer. Roast for 40 minutes, or until the squash is very tender. While roasting, turn the squash once so it cooks evenly. Do not let it brown. In two batches, transfer squash, the pan liquids and halfand-half to the bowl of a food processer fitted with a steel blade. Pulse until squash is coarsely pureed. It should have the consistency of mashed potatoes. Keep hot; place puree in a bowl sitting over a pot of simmering water and stir. Season to taste and serve hot. Yield: 6 servings. (*Note from Eddy Browning: This dish can be made a few days in advance. Reheat it, covered, in the microwave or in a bowl over a pot of simmering water. If the squash is too thick, thin it with milk, orange juice or water.)
OYSTERS IN BLEU CHEESE Julie Hoell “Plate & Palette” Beaufort County Arts Council (Arts of the Pamlico), Washington 12 raw oysters, with shells; 1/2 cup bleu cheese, crumbled; 6 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled; Tabasco sauce; 1/2 cup buttery, round crackers, crushed; 1/3 cup butter, melted. Place one raw oyster in each shell. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and drizzle with butter. Divide bleu cheese and bacon among oysters and top. Place 1 to 2 drops Tabasco on top of each. Run under broiler until bubbly. (*Cook’s note: Delicious, and you don’t have to use real oyster shells to make this recipe — stainless steel or ceramic work just fine) SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 55
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SWEET POTATO CHEESECAKE Virginia Jenks “Our Celebration Cookbook” First Presbyterian Church, Washington CRUST: 2 cups graham cracker crumbs (about 12 sheets); 3 tablespoons sugar; two tablespoons butter, melted; 1 tablespoon water; cooking spray. FILLING: 1/2 cup vanilla yogurt; 4 (8-ounce) packages of cream cheese, softened; 1/2 cup all-purpose flour; 1 1/4 cup sugar; 1 tablespoon vanilla; 1 tablespoon molasses; 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger; 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg; 3 eggs; 2 (15-ounce cans of sweet potatoes, drained. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. To prepare crust, combine first four ingredients, tossing with a fork until well-blended. Press into the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan coated with cooking spray. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes; cool on a wire rack. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees. Place yogurt and cheeses in a large bowl, beat with a mixer at high speed until smooth. Lightly spoon flour into a dry measuring cup and level with a knife. Add flour and next seven ingredients to cheese mixture; beat well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Place sweet potatoes in a food processor and beat until smooth. Add sweet potatoes to cheese mixture, stirring until well-blended. Pour cheese mixture into prepared crust. Bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour and 20 minutes or until cheesecake center barely moves when pan is touched. Turn oven off. Cool cheesecake in closed oven for one hour. Remove cheesecake from oven, run a knife around the outside edge. Do not remove cheesecake from pan at this point. Cool to room temperature. Cover and chill at least eight hours, the remove from pan if desired. Yield: 16 servings. (*Cook’s note: The original version of this scrumptious cheesecake recipe is a “cooking light recipe.” If you’re counting calories, use fat-free or lowfat vanilla yogurt, along with two (8-ounce) packages of 1/3-less fat cream cheese and two (8-ounce) packages of fat-free cream cheese. If you’d like to use fresh sweet potatoes instead of canned, two cups of cooked sweet potatoes can be substituted for the 2 (15-ounce) cans.)
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WITH LOVE HOMEMADE, WRITTEN BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
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ight years ago, I embarked on an assignment for which I had no experience: food prepping and photographing finished recipes for Washington the Magazine. I knew my way around a kitchen, and I could take a good photo — what could go wrong? Plenty, because pairing those two things is a completely different skillset. Taking a good photo of food, one that makes the viewer want to not only eat that dish but take the time to make it too, can be challenging. Some dishes seem as though they are made for the camera; others, not so much. Over the years, there have been many frustrating experiences. A tomato pie that, though delicious, every piece fell to pieces as soon as it was lifted from the pie plate, leading to a final resort of toothpicks and propping up a crumbling crust with cherry tomatoes to make it appear whole. Casseroles are yummy and hearty but, in general, won’t pose for a pretty picture. I once cored six whole tomatoes before I got one that didn’t split for a shrimp salad stuffed tomato recipe. There have been times where the photo is perfect, except for that unappetizing smear on a white plate, requiring removal with a delicate hand. And the time I decided a vertical stack of chocolate chip cookies tied with a gold ribbon would make the perfect picture for a holiday issue — it did, but many towers of cookies fell before that image was captured. Then there’s the issue that all ovens are not created equal: there’s been a few burns and few mutters of “When will this ever be done?” Which brings me to the cheesecake in this feature. If you look at the featured photo, it appears to be a perfect slice of cheesecake. It is not. Before this issue of the magazine, I’d never made a cheesecake. And this one … well, when it came out of the oven, it appeared as though a large, prehistoric bird had planted a claw right in the center of it, the trio of cracks were that deep. I’ve learned there’s a workaround for everything, however, and homemade whipped cream goes a long way in covering flaws. Having posted about the experience on social media, I received a wealth of advice about how to cook a cheesecake: “low and slow,” “200 degrees for four hours,” advice to incorporate a water bath to keep moisture even. Next time. But the best advice by far came from a local professional chef: “It’s much like life, food is. Some food is gorgeous, but there is no quality — it just looks good from the outside. Some food is butt ugly, but tastes fantastic and is homemade with love. The best kind of food looks appetizing and knocks your socks off with flavor. The last one is what I like to serve and how I like my life to be — oh, and my friends, too. Have a great day, and don’t waste calories on beautiful food that is really crappy!” Remember that advice if you ever find yourself comparing your finished recipe with the oh-so-pretty one pictured on a website, in a cookbook or even here in the magazine. It doesn’t matter what it looks like: if it tastes fantastic and is homemade with love, then it’s perfect. ⋇
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DINING GUIDE
SPINACH DIP Julie Hodges “Second Heavenly Helpings” Swan Quarter Baptist Church, Swan Quarter 1 package frozen spinach; 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese; 1 (8-ounce) package Monterey Jack, shredded; 1 (6-ounce) package Parmesan cheese, shredded; 1 can Rotel. Cook spinach according to package. Add cheeses and melt in the microwave for three to five minutes, until liquid forms. Add Rotel. Mix together. Serve with crackers, bagel chips or melba toast. (*Cook’s note: though the recipe calls for frozen spinach, saute fresh spinach with a little olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper to give this recipe a little bit of pop. About of pound of cooked, fresh spinach equals a 10-ounce container of frozen, but get more if you need to trim off stalks.)
APPLE CABBAGE COLESLAW Alice Paul “Favorite Recipes” St. Clair’s Church of Christ, Bath 3 (16-ounce) sour cream; 1 cup sugar; 2 tablespoons salt; 1 tablespoon pepper; 5 teaspoons ground mustard; 4-to-5 unpeeled tart apples, diced; 1/2 cup lemon juice, 3 large (3-to-4 pound) heads of cabbage, shredded. In a large bowl, combine the first five ingredients; mix well. Cover and chill for at least one hour. Toss apples with lemon juice. Combine apples and cabbage; mix well. Just before serving, add dressing and toss to coat. Yields 90 to 95 (1/2-cup) servings.
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WORD ON WINE
Wine pairing advice from THE PROFESSIONAL WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
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eading a wine bottle label and taking a glance at wine in a glass is all it takes for some oenophiles to make an educated guess about what a wine will taste like and how it will pair with certain foods. Mary Mehlich, owner of Wine & Words … & Gourmet in downtown Washington is one of those people. But for many winelovers, picking the perfect wine for a certain dish might be guesswork or require the recommendation from a professional. So, we’ve teamed up with Mehlich for a crash course in wine pairings, getting her input on which wines pair best with the recipes featured in this issue of Washington the Magazine.
see recipe on page 55
THE STARTER Charcuterie — meats, such as sopressata, and cheeses like Stilton or Cambozola — are a great way to start any meal, and choosing a wine to accompany charcuterie is relatively simple. “Charcuterie tends to be all the good, fattening stuff,” Mehlich said. “So I like to do a red or white that has a good acidity. Any good, hearty red wine will pair with a charcuterie.” If you’re partial to white wine, a Chablis, from the Burgundy region of France, or Sancerre, a wine from a small district in central France, known for its crisp, aromatic white wines, will also provide acidity to cleanse the palate. All of these wines will also do for our recipe for spinach dip, according to Mehlich. “You could do red or white with that one. A Pinot Noir will go well with that, because that’s going to pair nicely with the spinach and the cheese,” she said. Oysters are a favorite in the cool seasons, and for Mehlich, there’s one option that stands out for the recipe for Bleu Cheese Oysters. “Bubbly goes good with oysters — period. It plays off the salinity. You’ve got bleu cheese, bacon and oysters; it’s going to cut through that salinity and complement it nicely,” she said. Her recommendation is the top-shelf prosecco Rustico from the Veneto region in Italy, described as “a textbook, frothy, fresh, pure, delicate, delicious sparkling white.” “It’s well-made,” Mehlich said. “It’s got that little bit of residual sugar; it’s not really sweet.” 60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
MAIN COURSE When pizza’s on the menu, the go-to might seem to be another hearty red, but according to Mehlich, the ideal wine selection depends on the pizza itself. Lighter pizza requires a lighter wine, especially those substituting a white sauce or pesto for a red sauce. “With a veggie pizza, such as the fresh mozzarella, basil, tomato and arugula, you want to do a rose or a white,” Mehlich said. “Verdejo is going to play off the peppery taste of arugula. This is going to soften that effect. It’s got a creamy finish but a nice, tropical mid-palate.” For pizza with heavier vegetable or meat toppings, such as pepperoni or sausage, those reds are ideal. “The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has an astringency which will play off the meat fat from the pepperoni,” she said, adding that a Barbera d’Asti works well with heavier vegetables. “It’s a little bit of natural sweet, like a fruit sweet. It’s rich, so it’s going to complement vegetables.” Read the label, Mehlich warned: “Montepulciano can be sourced and bottled elsewhere, but unless it’s from Abruzzo, you’re just not going to get the same quality.”
See recipe on page 57
see recipe on page 54
DESSERT PALATE Red wine and dark chocolate make a perfect match, a complement to one another rather than competition for dominance — a general rule of thumb when pairing wine with dessert. Cheesecake, and our recipe for Sweet Potato Cheesecake, might be an exception. “You could do a red, or you could also do a slightly sweet, dessert Chenin Blanc. Because of the sweet, the cream of the cheesecake is just going to make it ... well, I want some — I’ll put it that way,” Mehlich laughed. “You don’t typically pair sweet with sweet, but when you’re talking about something like cheesecake, the sweet of the late harvest Chenin Blanc is going to play off the cream of the cheese.” For those up for trying out a few new recipes and the perfect wines to pair them with, these recipes and more can be found one page 52 and the wines at Wine & Words … & Gourmet in downtown Washington. ⋇ SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61
CAST A LINE
Fall brings transition &
NEW LIFE TO THE PAMLICO
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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS
all is my favorite time to be out on the water fishing the Pamlico. We have such an abundance of species to catch in the fall. The summer doldrums are over. Water temperatures are starting to cool, and fish are on the feed as cooler weather approaches. September is peak season for the giant redfish which enter our rivers for their annual spawn. Peak spawning activity occurs around the full moon and catchable numbers are in our area until late September and early October. This is truly a world-class fishery, attracting anglers from all over the country looking to score the largest redfish of their lives. Fish over 50 inches and pushing 60 pounds are not uncommon. Being a member of the “50-Inch Club” for redfish does not come easy, and many anglers spend the majority of their lives trying to break this mark. North Carolina’s Pamlico Sound, and its tributaries, is one of the best places in the country to do this. Another highlight of the fall is our speckled trout (spotted sea trout) fishing. Speckled trout are not the hardest pulling foes and are not known for their drag screaming runs like redfish; however, what they lack in strength, they make up in guile with their finnicky nature and lack of consistency. At times, they can be very easy to catch, but other times they are the toughest fish to master, especially the larger, older fish. That is what gives them so much appeal among local anglers. They are arguably the most revered and targeted fish in our area, and the
Young Trevor Rawls, from Washington, holds up a 51-inch giant red drum, which is almost bigger than him.
challenge of catching them is exactly what gives them their allure. As water temperatures cool into the early fall, we also see some excellent striped bass fishing in our river. Striped bass (rockfish) are one of my favorites, and we fish for them throughout the year, especially in the cooler months of fall, winter and spring. They offer excellent topwater fishing opportunities but can be caught many different ways. Once located, they are not as picky as the speckled trout and their opportunistic nature usually overpowers their sense of judgement (if that exists in a fish) and can be caught easily on a variety of artificial lures or live bait. In the fall, they tend to
64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
school up around bait concentrations and can often be seen crashing the surface under birds, which are enjoying picking at the baitfish as they are driven to the water’s surface. To experience our wonderful fall fishing on the Pamlico, give us a call at 252-945-9715, or visit us on the web at www.tarpamguide.com for information about your next fishing adventure on the Inner Banks. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.⋇
WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON
STARTING a new chapter
A
WRITTEN BY CAROL MANN | PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
fter moving here almost 22 years ago, I recently realized that my love for Washington is rather unique from those who also hold this sweet little town dear to their hearts. I come at this from two different perspectives! My husband and I moved here because we loved the thought of small-town living after having spent all of our married lives in the suburbs of large cities. We saw the lovely waterfront, the surrounding rural farmland and a town that would be just right for two recently retired emptynesters. I purchased some golf clubs so that my hubby and I could enjoy the game together. We were going to fade into the background and live the “retired life.” This area is well suited to that lifestyle, and the people here are so friendly and
welcoming. We had searched up and down the coast, yet this special town kept calling our names. We had found the perfect place. So, the story could end here and I could continue to rave about the kind and friendly people we came to know. Promoting this community for those who want a quiet little town to embrace would be so easy. But alas, there is an additional perspective from which I come. I am now a businesswoman in downtown Washington. My stint as a golfer was short-lived when I discovered watercolors. I took a few lessons and all of a sudden, I found myself selling my artwork and owning an art gallery. So here’s where the next chapter began. As co-owner of The Lemonade Art Gallery, I see things differently. I see the town growing and new businesses
66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020
starting up. The Main Street renovation is currently underway, and despite the ugly appearance of pipes, trenches and tornup concrete, there is a glimmer of what is to be — a beautiful streetscape for the residents as well as the tourists who visit our fair city. I love the spirit I see here — that neighbors help neighbors, and store proprietors support one another. I love the fact that our residents continue to support our local shops and restaurants, even during this pandemic! I love the community spirit. This is the kind of town where one can walk down Main Street, and someone will shout “Hey!” and call you by name. So from both perspectives, this retired recreational golfer, who has evolved into a business owner, is proud to call Washington home! ⋇
ADVERTISER INDEX Beaufort County Schools
17
Bertie Ambulance Service
16
Bertie Peanuts
16
Big Bargain Furniture
15,49
Bloom Women’s Apparel
15
Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage
59
Carryout by Chrislyn
59
Century 21 Real Estate
37
Coastal Insurance
63
Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty
3
Cottage Junkies
15
Country Boys
67
Daughtridge Patio
50
Dellinger’s Pawn
15
Dowry Creek Marina
62
El Charrito
59
Executive Personnel Group
36
Feyer Ford
2
First Bank
8
Gail Kenefick - Coastal Rivers Realty
15
Hyde County Industries
16
Jones & McKinney, P.A.
15
Kari Hall, Century 21
15
King Chicken
9
Marabella 36 Mauri E. Alligood - State Farm Insurance
36
Nan McClendon - The Rich Co.
36
NERSBA 8 River Street Networks
65
Rod & Jordan Cantrell - Edward Jones
50
Ryan Whitford - AssureVest Insurance Group
65
Robert D. Alton, Nationwide
16
Slade Landscaping
65
Sloan Insurance
15
Scott & Stringfellow BB&T
8
Southern Bank
50
Stewart’s Jewelry Store
7
The Rich Company
51
Tideland EMC
5
United Country Respess Real Estate
50
Vidant Health Systems
68
Washington Funeral Home
37
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 67
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