Wine Column

WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH REED

Rather than sticking to our same old favorites, changing the wine we drink with the seasons is an opportunity to experience a wider range of varietals and pairings. As the weather warms and our taste buds start to crave wines that are fresh and clean, it’s time to start picking out wine for its lightness and simplicity.

There are some lovely whites that are perfect for this time of year when you finally put the big heavy jacket in the back of the closet and reach for a lighter one or even a sweater.

Some examples that are well worth tasting are Viognier, Gavi, Verdicchio or Verdejo.

Viognier is a full-bodied white wine that originated in southern France. Most loved for its perfumed aromas of peach, tangerine and honeysuckle, Viognier can also be oak-aged to add a rich creamy taste with hints of vanilla.

Gavi DOCG is a white wine produced in the Alto Monferrato, in the southern part of the province of Alessandria, Piedmont, north east of Italy, bordering with Liguria and made exclusively from Cortese grapes cultivated in the town of Gavi and surrounding villages, from which it takes its name. The Gavi DOCG wine has a light straw color with green hues and a delicate, fruity nose with apple hints. The wine is dry, fresh, full and elegant. In the last few years, wine makers have started to produce more structured and complex wines with very good results, proving that the Cortese grape grown in the Gavi area is suitable for ageing in bottle or barrels and produce long lasting wines.

Verdicchio is the name of a white grape variety. It is also a part of many DOC names from central Italy that are made exclusively from the grape. Verdicchio is grown in Italy’s Marche region, where it produces two Denominazione di Origine Controllata wines, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. Two Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita designations were created in 2011, and demonstrate Verdicchio’s capacity for ageing and complexity. Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG and Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG must age a minimum of 18 months prior to release.

Verdicchio produces wines with high acidity and good structure. The wines typically show citrus fruit flavors of mandarin, lemon and grapefruit, and a distinctive almond character. It is dry and refreshing and food friendly.

Verdejo Is almost exclusively grown In Spain, Rueda to be precise. It is a little known jewel that you should definitely explore. Verdejo makes subtle-yet-stunning white wines with flavors of lime, Meyer lemon, grapefruit, grass, fennel, and citrus blossom. It’s often likened to Sauvignon Blanc but really, it deserves its own category. Unlike most whites, Verdejo continues to improve over several years of bottleaging, where it gains a rich texture and flavors of toasted Marcona almonds, supported by sparkly acidity. The bitter flavors of grass and fennel come in on the finish and almost make the wine taste crunchy. are delicately floral, with classico biodynamic wines of Gavi, fermented with ambient yeasts can be the most expressive.

It is also a matter of personal preference. Some of us drink white wine primarily and there are those who are die hard red wine drinkers. In the Spring Roses begin to hit the shelves and are a fantastic in between . For white wine drinkers Provence offers a lighter bodied Rose. Rose made in the Saignee Method will appeal to red wine drinkers .

If you’ve sipped a glass of rosé, you’ve probably tasted one from Provence. Denizens in the South of France view rosé as not just a beverage, but a way of life. Stylistically, Provençal rosé is quite distinct.

Typically, these rosés are made intentionally, picked for citrus and tart red fruit flavors with limited skin contact for lighter hues and delicateness. They’re not big, brash, fruity wines, but meant to be crisp and versatile. They can be enjoyed with vegetables, seafood and even meat.

The classic Provençal rosé grapes are Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. Wines from the Bandol region of Provence have a large presence in the U.S., primarily high-quality, pricier rosés made from predominantly Mourvèdre. These wines are savory, mineral-driven and structured, rather than simple and fruit-forward. Bandol is a rosé that can age.

From the French word for “bleeding”, the saignée method is a by-product of making red wine where a small amount of juice is bled off early in fermentation. This helps increase concentration of the remaining juice in the same way you’d reduce a sauce to intensify flavors. Once the juice is separated, the winemaker has a few options. They can simply pour it down the drain, use it to top off barrels of wine (ullage) – or make a Rosé.

Rosé made this way tends to have deeper, more vibrant pink color and darker flavors of blackberry, raspberry, and berry jam. While some think of this technique as an afterthought of red wine production, supporters of the Saignée method insist their wines are purposeful, and argue it produces the riper flavors and greater expression of the varietal.

Lighter bodied reds are also great for Spring. They are versatile and very food friendly.

Some examples are Gamay & Frappato.

Gamay is a lighter-bodied, fruitforward grape variety used to make red wine. Gamay originated in Burgundy, but was outlawed in the late fourteenth century by a duke who preferred the pinot noir in the region. Growers in Beaujolais, a wine region in the south of Burgundy, defied the duke’s orders and continued to quietly grow Gamay for generations. In 1937, the Beaujolais region became a Protected Designation of Origin, resulting in a rise in popularity for Gamay wine. Wines produced from Gamay are fruity and light-bodied with relatively high acidity. They tend to have flavors of cherry, cranberry and a hint of spice. The purple grape variety has a thin skin that is low in tannins—a substance that creates a drying, rubbing sensation on your tongue—making it less dry than tannic red wines like Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is my favorite red for Spring.

In recent years, Sicily’s winemakers have started to embrace Frappato’s unique characteristics to make a lightbodied varietal wine that partners well with the local cuisine. When served with a slight chill, Frappato’s low tannin, low alcohol, delicate fruitiness makes it partner well with swordfish, as well as tomato-centric pasta dishes.

Sipping Frappato for the first time can feel like a spin on the roulette wheel of the world’s wines. My first taste reminded me of the strawberry notes of a Grenache. Yet another bottle brought to mind the game-like flavors of Barbera d’Asti. And my most recent taste recalled an oaky Sangiovese. What remains consistent, however, is a fruit-profile that resembles strawberries, as well as an energetic acidity that gives these wines a great deal of versatility with food.

Whatever your preference, these wines are versatile and food friendly. Take a gander and color outside of the lines. Try something new this Spring. It may become your new favorite. ⋇