VMAN News

This Spring, what’s old is new again, from distressed kicks to vintage guitars and saddle bags remixed for men.

Following a floral Kaws teddy bear as a runway centerpiece and amped up men’s jewelry, Kim Jones defies the status quo for SS19, where the “iconic” Saddle Bag circa Dior by Galliano returned as a curvy cross-body. With a utilitarian upgrade, and Matthew Williams hardware, the 20-year-old silhouette is sharper than ever.

Last June, Anthony Vaccarello’s first menswear showing at Saint Laurent redefined the term “destination.” From the moonlit ferry ride to a spangly waterfront catwalk, to the finale’s Studio 54–like cavalcade of club-ready models, the show transported guests to a New York of another time. It was this New York that Yves Saint Laurent once lit up with his own destination showcase: his Opium fragrance’s U.S. launch in 1978, which brought his “dream of the Orient” to life for 800 of NYC’s brightest stars, from Cher to Warhol to Factory scribe Bob Colacello aboard a docked junk-ship.

The designer tended to prefer his imagination to real-life travel, making visits to New York scarce. But what unfolded at his Opium afterparty at Studio 54, as told by Colacello, can only be described as a New York minute—from the star-studded spontaneity to the cosmically SS19-esque wardrobe.

A visit from Yves to New York was a big deal; he made very few appearances. I don’t think he really liked to travel, except to Morocco. His entourage, led by Pierre Bergé, was very protective. Marina Schiano, one of his muses, ran the American business. When he would come, she’d excitedly say, “Yves is coming, Yves is coming,” as he did to promote Opium.

At Studio 54 there was a sort of secret door that led to the basement, which was like the VIP lounge, except it was only a series of storage rooms with cement floors and a couple folding chairs. You could hear people stomping above your head. But there was a security guard who knew who to send down.

At some point that evening, I was in the basement with Truman Capote and a young English boy named Hugo Guinness—of the banking family, not the beer. Also in the room was Halston, who always wore a black cashmere turtleneck and black aberdeen trousers. Everything was black. Sometimes he’d have a very long cashmere scarf sort of falling down over the turtleneck.

Suddenly Yves appeared with Marina Schiano. He was wearing a cream-colored Yves Saint Laurent suit, with a striped shirt and pants that were sort of bell-bottomed. At the time Saint Laurent was the biggest in Europe and Halston was the biggest in America. It wasn’t just any American and any French designer. Yves was a huge star; he caught the spirit of the times. He was just the number one designer [but] so was Halston. It was like the King of France and the King of England meeting in Normandy.

Halston jumped up and moved towards Yves, and Yves moved towards Halston, and the two of them embraced. They talked a little: “Darling…mon cherie.” But it was more a flurry of kisses and hugs. Truman says to Hugo, as if he was talking to a pupil, “You have just witnessed one of the great moments in the history of fashion.” Then he paused and said, “That is, if you care about the history of fashion.” Then Marina whisked Yves off, and got him the hell out of the basement.

Dive into a wave of brilliant hues this spring. Louis Vuitton’s signature Taïga leather and monogram canvas take a dip in jolts of neon as part of a limited-run collection dubbed Taïgarama. The range’s outdoor messenger bag (pictured here) is the ultimate bridge between luxury and utility. Its black canvas detailing is reminiscent of expedition gear, an ideal pairing for the puffer jackets of early spring, while the smooth durable leather will elevate the most casual wares at the height of sweltering summer heat.

Why break in new kicks when Gucci’s come wih a readymade patina? Debuted at the Le Palace club, these “dirty” sneakers withstand any drink-spilling fancy footwork.

Go fetch! Merging Wall-E and Smart House, Vector is here to not only keep you company but also facilitate your day-to-day. Developed by home robotics company Anki, the domesticated AI-on-wheels takes house-trained tech to the next frontier, responding to human touch (petting relaxes him) and coming at your beck and call. Alexa, sit.

On March 13, Snarkitecture, a BK-based firm known for high-design “snark” (think jagged mirrors made to look like partial demolition jobs), will open Snark Park at Hudson Yards—a “modern enchanted forest” of immersive optical illusions, KITH merch and rotating exhibits.

This spring, Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour will auction a one-of-a-kind collection reflecting his decades of onstage shredding and quiet guitar collecting. The seminal prog-rock souvenirs include a trusty black Fender stratocaster, purchased five years after the band formed in London in 1965, expected to fetch around $100,000 at Christie’s in June.

Welcome to the new republic. Kris Van Assche’s inaugural Berluti collection forecasts a reinvigorated blueprint for the 120-year-old French luxury goods house. Re-establishing the modern man’s essentials, the collection ranges from a two-button suit jacket, a white poplin shirt, and a razor-sharp tuxedo in black and white color-ways. Meanwhile chunky leather sneakers come in white, red, and blue (Berluti’s signature

French shades) as well as in slightly mutated black and green. Crisp white-leather briefcases, featuring a detachable strap and an updated “1895 Paris” logo, offer a cross-body spin on the business-casual standby.