magazine
n.23 october 2013 COLLECTIONS - SURF-ING TOUR OF THE WORLD - PARIS VANNI SHOW - VANNI AT THE MILANO FASHION WEEK
CO L L E C T I O N S
vANNI
Surf-ing
The metal surface takes on a host of amazing finishes
designed for the more petite female face, chic sophistication.
2013 sees VANNI engaged in an all-out launch of surface treatments for metal frames. Surface treatments can be almost infinitely varied, a most unusual source of inspiration. To VANNI this is cutting-edge innovation: it entails rummaging in areas a million miles from eyewear tradition, with more than a pinch of experimental daring.
Surf-ing is for prescription or sun-wear. Temples all use VANNI’s comfortable patented Mech-Flex system. Styles and shapes are unisex tending to feminine.
Surf-ing contains a hint of cocky selfassurance. We propose 4 diametrically different finishes: a smooth shimmering satin front; or rough natural-feeling mockrock in 3-D colouring – which is a first-ever in eyewear, using the paint automobile protects its cylinder heads with, though in the brightest VANNI colours. Then there is a luminescent night-shine colour finish in mother-of-pearl, bronze or nightsky blue. Lastly, freeze is a milled surface like metal coated in ice; this comes in 4 models
TOUR OF THE WO RL D
paris,
paris
We just came back from Paris, this magazine issue’s mecca, where the month’s end has brought Silmo (second only to Mido on the world scene) – a major event for eyewear buyers and fans. The Eiffel Tower, the Seine, Notre Dame: on the lips and pens of everyone. What we propose is a visit to unknown sites, off the beaten guide book. For the coming mission we’ve found two exceptional guides: Isabelle, true-born Parisienne, inquisitively passionate about her city which she knows inside out; and Elena, a transplantee from Turin to Paris these many years. Our tour starts at “Le Docks, Cité de la mode et du design” http://www.citemodedesign. fr/ - actually a Seineside building in “flowing” architectural style on the left bank and southish, easy to get to. A container for concerts and events. The throbbing heart of Parisian creativity, it’s rumoured. Right for families, artists, the single, those of all ages,
Le Docks
a completely decontracté atmosphere as they say here, like the gentle folds of the river. Staying with the view theme – since of late Paris has gone in for rooftop venues – there are some ideal terraces for an aperitif or a supper away from the madding streets. We might single out Le Perchoir; and of course the long-famed restau on top of the Centre Pompidou. A very French tradition: work hard, put office cares away, and relax hard. Picture the sumptuous auditoriums of the erstwhile cinema-goer totally restyled, and you have the Cinéma Louxor, a 1920s movie theatre restored to past splendour: as of recent months it’s showing stuff for the true scope-addict. http://www. cinemalouxor.fr/. Are you more of a Molière than a cinema buff? Your haven is the Commedie Française. Dating from 1680, it puts on a generous and varied calendar of events, and ticket prices are slashed for
Cinéma Louxor
Paris rooftop
Le Docks
those who join the box-office queue on a Sunday afternoon. Check it out on http:// www.comedie-francaise.fr/index.php You remember we mentioned New York’s High Line? Paris gives you la Petite Ceinture, which is far less well-known: the old circular railway, 32 km of traffic-free track dating from the Forties, can now be visited as an unusual ecological corridor ringing the city centre. Enlivened with murals, this walk is the tops for the adventurous town rambler. Two really unusual tours down into “the belly of the town”, though claustrophobics beware! A web of tunnels crisscross most of the Paris area. This catacomb city, with its sewer network, has often inspired art, literature, the cinema. One thinks of Les Misérables or the Phantom of the Opera. A small section of subterranean Paris is open for visits: guided tours of the catacombs leave from Place Denfert-Rochereau; the
guided tour of the sewers (Les égouts) leaves from Pont de l’Alma. Lastly, for those keen on exploring the city’s churches without following the tourist herd, our tip is the Cathedral of Saint Denis. Prime Gothic masterpiece and church of a mighty abbey; also an important medieval pilgrimage site: the Saint Denis cathedral basilica has a history linked to royalty, being the burial place of French kings. Today it houses over 70 sculpted funerary monuments, including those of Dagobert, François I, Catherine of Medici and Louis XVI.
Saint Denis
Bonne visite.
La Petite Ceinture
Paris
La Petite Ceinture
Saint Denis
Les égouts
TRENDS
vanni,
FASHION TRENDS BY aLESSANDRA
Our standing engagement with the autumn/winter trends comes round again. Here’s what will be ‘in’ next season BLACK FOREVER Of course, the season helps: winter, much more than summer, has always kept our dress colours sober. But this year of years black is all the rage. It’s never particularly spoken to me but this year I feel I may fall under its spell. If the colour is on the drab side, the spotlight is on some splendid materials that make each garment unique. Sophisticated workmanship, different textural combinations – enough to personalise the straightest ‘tube’. Inlay, embroidery, glitter, feathers: black’s never looked so bright.
ever). We’ll all end up as unreal shining reflections of the dim autumnal light. Colours that used only to come out for New Year are now daily wear. Though mind you don’t fall into the chandelier trap. Well, it does all strike a note of good cheer, that’s for sure.
AND THERE WAS LIGHT The season’s wardrobe tanks up on glitter, materials picked out in gold and silver. Metallic or rainbow flashes on clothes and accessories (not to mention the bluest blue
Balenciaga
Blutype
Hussein Chalayan
ThreeASFOUR
Valentino
MODELS? CITY SLICKER RESTYLED We’ve mentioned colours and materials, but what models does the season propose? Smart sobriety for the hard-working city-ite, and toughy urban warrior for the younger generation. Camel coats and faultlesslytailored suits for the former, and an invasion of studs and leather trimmings for the latter. The only hint of ‘alternative’ for the stylish workaholic are masculine cuts for women and a feminine touch for men – an unusual blend of unisex, spelling city slicker with a pinch of wacky.
Colour-blocking is over, tone-on-tone is better, lots and lots of flowers. Tartan is back in a host of smashing unorthodox guises. There’s a ‘country chic’ that smacks of the English countryside: not so much tally-ho as escape from the asphalt jungle. And fur, did you ever? Hairy men, wild women trimming themselves in fur (hopefully ecological) on clothes, shoes and handbags. Slacks are coming back in for women (and about time too), while menswear is a touch lowslung about the crotch, giving the slightly raddled adventurer look.
Iceberg
MIXED FRUIT SALAD Finding it hard to lump this season’s originality under one trend label, I’ve had to resort to snippets. It’s not just all black, thank goodness: clothes colours are relieved by a warm orange, mixed into geometrical patterns – squares, diamonds, oblongs – that are far from a summer hangover. Issey Miyake
Anrealage Collection
Franck Boclet
Pinko
Jijil
VA N N I S H O W
World
in a snapshot
WORLD IN A SNAPSHOT A major exhibition of the National Geographic Society’s most famous photos, taking us through the history of the world-renowned scientific and teaching organization. On at Rome’s Expo Palace from 25th September to 2nd February, and not to be missed. www.palazzoesposizioni.it
on the web. Google ‘upcycle’. A surprising array of results. VANNI AT THE MILAN FASHION WEEK With glasses in a special edition tailored for emerging fashion designer Cristiano Burani.
AUTOFOCUS BY VANNI Results the 10th of October. For the winner of the competition in wich VANNI entices young artists entry. UPCYCLE: NEW LIFE TO THINGS From the pages of a de luxe aristocratic Vogue we learn that the trend of the moment is upcycling: restoring life to cast-off objects, making them beautiful, useful, but different in function and form. A reminder that style is not necessarily about new purchases: you can be in fashion on a shoe string. Lots Cristiano Burani
Autofocus 5
Exhibition National Geographic
Upcycled Product
VA N N I O C C H I A L I . CO M
press release
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vanni on
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