Upshift Issue 70 - June 2022 by UPSHIFT

Issue 70

June 2022

2023 KTM 500 EXC-F 2023 KTM 500 EXC-F 2023 KTM 500 EXC-F 2023 KTM 500 EXC-F

UNMAT CONQUER THE MOST EXTREME TERRAIN Think of the 2023 KTM 500 EXC-F as a sledgehammer. Hard-hitting, effective, and utterly devastating. But, thanks to a nimble chassis and its even more compact high-tech engine, this large-displacement power machine is surprisingly light and rideable. As a result, this 510 cc SOHC single-cylinder powerhouse has an incredible power-to-weight ratio and provides nothing less than the most dynamic and exciting option for offroad riding, dual-sport riding, or rally events.

Photo: Francesc Montero

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scene. Always wear protective safety gear and ride in a responsible manner. The illustrated vehicle may vary selected details from the production models and may feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

TCHED

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

New dark blue graphics with electric yellow accents and new metallic blue frame.

A two-piece carbon fiber composite subframe

WP XPLOR front forks and WP X ACT monoshock

T E

300

Built for the challenge.

enduro trails are unpredictable by nature, and where they are the toughest, the te 300 reigns supreme.

Photos: M. Campelli, KISKA GmbH

www.kiska.com

husqvarna-motorcycles.com

ISSUE 70

June 2022

Issue 70

June 2022

y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Olivier de isVaulx se partial or complete of the sord marks prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.

INSTA-ADV

LOGO SHEET

Instagram Travelers

Design, Production Chris Glaspell

THE INSIDER

The World Is Always Changing

Contributing Writers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill Gregor Halenda

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Contributing Photographers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill Gregor Halenda David Marvier

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The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through The Lens

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BOLIVIA PART 1

Technical Editor Chad de Alva

From the Andes to The Jungle

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

SEDONA

Business Development Brandon Glanville

Arizona Playground

Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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Cyclops Trailboss Pro Motorex Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner

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KTM 890 R BUILD

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Saku Moto Goes Next Level

20 ALPINE PASSES

Riding Guide to The European Alps

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2022. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

THE NEW

WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY / WORLD-CLASS VENTILATION / ALL-WEATHER ADV PROTECTION / KLIM D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR

B A D L A N D S P R O J A C K E T & PA N T / K R I O S P R O H E L M E T / E D G E G O G G L E

KLIM.COM #KLIMLIFE

THE WORLD IS ALW

WAYS CHANGING By Chad de Alva

After spending a couple of days walking around an event that I’ve been attending since it was just a few folks in a field, I found myself wondering what the future holds for this event that is clearly favoring the corporate cash till over the community that started it. What once was, is gone forever. This has left a number of old hands feeling alienated, as selling things has taken priority over actually getting out, exploring and having fun. This event is more than just a trade show – it’s a place where folks can go to learn how to become better riders. Stepping out of the exhibitor maze and over to where the training was taking place is where I was reminded of something very important. A number of riders were stirring up no small amount of dust while playing a game that had drawn a small crowd. Two stands had been placed roughly 10 feet apart, and a bar was delicately suspended between them. The group of riders was playing moto limbo, and riders on GSAs were competing against KTMs and air cooled Honda CRFs. There was even a gal on a Volcon electric bike in the game. It didn’t matter who won; everyone, including the small crowd gathered to watch, was having a great time. As the bar inexorably moved lower, riders were coming up with increasingly comical ways to attempt to make it safely under without knocking it off. It didn’t matter who they were or what type of bike they were on, simply spending time with other people actually doing something fun is what made for a great time. As the industry and the world changes, it’s important to not lose touch with what brought us here in the first place: the fact that we enjoy riding motorcycles and the experiences they provide. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about ADV bikes, dirt bikes, or E bikes, they’re all fun, and so are the folks who ride them. Thankfully, that is something I don’t see changing anytime soon.

Klim Releases Updated 2022 Off-Road Gear KLIM is continuing their legacy of rugged, technical off-road apparel with redesigned Mojave gear and new XC Lite and Dakar series colors. Engineered through testing in the Rocky Mountains, the deserts and race courses, this gear offers durability and functionality that riders have grown to trust. As the riding and racing season heats up, KLIM is proud to help out competitive riders with their Racer Support Program, which re-opens July 1, 2022. Off-road racers with at least a year of experience are encouraged to apply for gear support in their race efforts. The program is meant to help ease the financial burden of racing for privateers who meet the qualifications of the program. KLIM off-road gear is equipment designed specifically to give riders the tools they need to have the best experience possible, no matter the conditions. To achieve that goal, these sets of off-road gear all feature unique material layouts for different levels of mobility, ventilation and durability. The Dakar series gear is a blend of durability and airflow, featuring massive adjustable vents on the pant legs in addition to multiple stretch panels, leather overlays, and heavy duty 840D Cordura® in key areas. The Dakar Jersey features tough sleeves, vented sides, a zippered sleeve pocket and a lightweight body, and is equally focused on durability while still maintaining good airflow for off-road riding. The redesigned Mojave series pushes the balance towards airflow while maintaining durability, with pants featuring new highly durable Karbonite Mesh also found in KLIM’s Induction series of street motorcycle gear. Light colors reduce heat absorption in sunlight. Other key materials and a pair of pockets are shared with the Dakar Pant. The redesigned Mojave Jersey features a more open mesh body material for more airflow, while upgrading to the same durable sleeve material found in the Dakar Jersey. Topping the charts for mobility is the XC Lite series for men and women. Engineered with the aggressive trail rider and racer in mind, the XC Lite series puts extra focus on comfort in extremely demanding conditions, where airflow, moisture-wicking materials and highly flexible fabrics can make or break the experience. Still, durability isn’t pushed aside with leather overlays and durable fabrics in high wear areas. Dakar Pant/Jersey colors: Potter’s Clay, Vivid Blue, Striking Petrol, Redrock, Black. Jersey MSRP $79.99. ITB Pants MSRP $219.99. Pants MSRP $249.99. Mojave jersey/pants colors: Striking Petrol, Peyote Desert, Electric Blue, Gray. Jersey MSRP $69.99. ITB Pants MSRP $209.99. Pants MSRP $239.99. Women’s XC Lite jersey/pants colors: Shattered Purple, Shattered Petrol. Jersey MSRP $49.99. Pants MSRP $149.99. XC Lite jersey/pants colors: Yellow Gold, Digital Chaos Red, Digital Chaos Orange, Digital Chaos Blue, Black Gold. Jersey MSRP $49.99. Pants MSRP $149.90 For more information visit KLIM.com

Fasst Company Spoke Torque Wrench Fasst Company introduced the Spoke Torque Wrench, an industry first, in the summer of 1998. At that time wheel maintenance was uncharted territory and we quickly realized the value of providing an even pull throughout the entire wheel. We manufacture the wrench in-house in our machine shop, it’s 100% American Made by riders for riders. After assembly each wrench is tested and calibrated to ensure accuracy and consistency. The preset Spoke Torque Wrench comes set at 48 inch pounds. 48 inch pounds is not abusive to your wheel’s components and will not loosen up rapidly on severe impacts. The wrench can be preset to your specifications or use our recommendation. 48 inch pounds is ideal for everything 85cc on up. 36 inch pounds is best for 65cc and smaller. We are always happy to discuss your torque concerns, call us at any time. We’ve changed the number of wrench heads in our kits to only include the most popular head sizes for modern dirt bikes. Our Wrench Kit now ships with 7 Heads (5.0, 5.6, 6.0, 6.2, 6.5, 6.7, 6.8). We have other wrench head sizes available should you need them. MSRP: $124.99. www.fasstco.com

Shinko 520DC Rear Tire (Dual Compound) The new Shinko R520DC Rear Tire utilizes new dual compound with soft and sticky center knobs that transition to harder side knobs that resist tearing and chunking. The directional tread pattern is designed for intermediate and hard terrain. MSRP: $137.95. www.shinkotireusa.com • Size: 120/100-18 • Durometer reading from 47 in the center to 65 on the outside • NHS (Not For Highway Use) • Intermediate/Hard • Roll-out (circumference): 86″ deflated • Weight: 14.25 lbs

Motion Pro - Pro Funnel™ The Motion Pro Pro Funnel features an integrated shut-off valve which allows precise amounts of liquid to be dispensed. The 1000cc (34oz.) capacity funnel has graduation marks for cubic centimeters, fluid ounces and premix ratios. MSRP: $46.99. www.motionpro.com • Integrated shutoff valve allows precise amount of liquid to be dispensed • Graduation marks for cubic centimeters, fluid ounces and premix ratio • 1000 cc (34 oz) capacity • Easy to understand premix ratio graduations for 32:1, 40:1, 50:1, and 60:1 for 1 to 3 gallons • Adjustable ball-pivot spout allows easy, spill-free filling • Top cover keeps dust and dirt out when not in use • Magnet allows funnel to be stored conveniently on the side of your tool box • Large molded handle for secure grip • Reduced neck keeps funnel from dripping residue when funnel is laid on its side • Made from ultra-durable HDPE plastic • Tip size can be trimmed to fit your application

2O22

RACE EDITION

2-Stroke - 250 / 300 2

The Dream Machine 1) DEDICATED BLUE RACING SEAT 2) ELECTRIC STARTER 3) MAP SWITCH WITH

TWO DIFFERENT IGNITION SETTINGS - RAIN OR SHINE 4) MOTO STYLE RED VERTIGO HANDGUARDS 5) OFF-ROAD LIGHT 6) REFINED KYB CLOSED CARTRIDGE FORKS 7) DUAL MATERIAL REAR SPROCKET 8) EXTRA WIDE BILLET MACHINED ALLOY

FOOTPEGS 9) WET DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH FOR MORE TORQUE & LESS RIDER FATIQUE 10) COUNTER BALANCED ENGINE 11) ADJUSTABLE POWER VALVE 12) FRONT AXLE PULL FOR QUICK TIRE CHANGES

Ténéré 700. Find new horizons. www.YamahaMotorsports.com

Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. European spec model shown. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2021 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

WIDE OPEN

BOLIVIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

DEDICATED TO RIDER PROTECTION

V X - P R O 4 • STANTON

Photo courtesy of Triumph Motorcycles Ltd.

THE ARAI DIFFERENCE At Arai, not only the management, but its owner also knows the mission to protect riders and continues learning how a helmet works to protect the wearers against riding impacts. Witnessing how severe and unpredictable some impacts can be, Arai’s focus continues to be the consistent pursuit of gains in protection for helmets bearing our family name.

SCAN TO SEE THE VALUE OF ARAI VIDEO

If the helmet receives an impact, we do not know what direction it will come from, where it will contact the helmet, or how severe the impact energy will be. If destroyed, the shell can no longer slide and impact energy will be directed towards the head. Therefore, first and foremost, a strong shell is important for glancing off the impact!

SCAN TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE VX-PRO4

WIDE OPEN

NEPAL

PHOTO: GREGOR HALENDA

WIDE OPEN

MOROCCO

PHOTO: DAVID MARVIER

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BOLIVIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

OREGON

PHOTO: GREGOR HALENDA

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SWITZERLAND

PHOTO: TRAVIS GILL

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

With world-beating capability and all-road comfort, the new 7.9 gallon tank, shaft-driven Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer is the ultimate large capacity adventure motorcycle. Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for impeccable off road control and effortless touring capability. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, plus a feature-packed, high specification of equipment throughout, including long-travel, semi-active suspension and the new Triumph Blind Spot Radar system, for outstanding all-road capability in comfort and style. The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $24,200 MSRP.

Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

FOR YOUR NE ADVENTURE TOP SPEED 10W40 A fully synthetic engine oil engineered for the optimum balance of longevity and performance. High temperature and shear stable viscosity modiﬁers JASO MA2, high-torque, wet clutch certiﬁed Low volatility and evaporation loss Robust anti-wear additive package

WWW.MOTOREXUSA.COM

EXT

WIDE OPEN

MEXICO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

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MOROCCO

PHOTO: DAVID MARVIER

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BOLIVIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

NEW PRODUCT | NOW SHIPPING

KTM 1290 SUPER ADVENTURE

Rushing parts to the market has never been our goal. Hence we spent nearly a year developing and carefully testing our 2021-2022 KTM 1290 Super Adventure R/S products. The greatest challenge was designing and developing a set of properly performing crash bars!

Please visit our YouTube channel for the official DropTest video!

WIDE OPEN

IDAHO

PHOTO: BRANDON GLANVILLE

WIDE OPEN

BOLIVIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PROVEN PERFORMANCE FOR THE LONG HAUL

The DR-Z400S. Arguably the most proven on- & off-road motorcycle ever created. Built to thrive in any terrain. Experience the machine that literally defines the word DualSport. This ride needs no introduction, its 400cc liquid-cooled, single-cylinder engine produces predictable, tractable power for any road or trail. You won’t think twice about your line thanks to its light yet rigid frame coupled to a fully-adjustable suspension. And its unwavering reliability means you can ride everywhere with complete confidence. With the world at your tread, enjoy adventure on a bike that has stood the test of time — and keeps asking for more.

EXPERIENCE THE CAPABLE DR-Z400S AT

SUZUKICYCLES.COM

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2022 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

FROM THE ANDES TO THE JUNGLE

WORDS AND PHOTOS OLIVIER DE VAULX

If anything, you will not go to Bolivia by accident. To get to the city of La Paz, with its 13,400 ft of elevation that challenges even the biggest commercial airplanes, one should be ready for an epic trip. From Los Angeles International Airport, it’s a 26 hour journey, including a 15 hour stop in Bogota, Colombia, ending with a 3 am arrival. No time for a La Paz-by-night tour; the only thing you desire at this point is to find a bed! Yet, after a short night of sleep, visiting the city from the sky using the state-of-the-art cable car is a reward that already makes the trip worth it! Located on the edge of a bowl under the Altiplano plateau, La Paz is a city built upside-down, with the rich neighborhood being at the lower altitude in order to get maximum oxygen. From the railway, the view is stunning. It doesn’t matter if developers save on taxes by not finishing their buildings, the unpainted red bricks of most construction give a visual unity to the urban area spread over the mountains. Reaching El Alto, the aerial railway flies over the biggest market in South America. Thousands of vendors sell and trade food, clothes, and automotive parts, and we can’t resist seeing it up close. We wander, incognito, in this busy but quiet open-air supermarket. It’s hard to evaluate things when we’re coming from another culture, and we’re careful not to assume anything based on visual clues. Indeed, with a growing population of 11 million, Bolivia is in full economic expansion, but is still a developing country and it would be an easy mistake to assume that everybody here has a rough life. Fortunes are made here, and smart and successful families are known for throwing wedding parties costing a few hundred thousand dollars! The women, in their traditional dresses, are in charge of the business side of things here and also manage the flow of money. Once you know the trick, you can tell who’s successful by looking at their silver earrings.

Being a tourist in this part of the world is an experience that you can take on many levels. One could sit at the terrace of a cafe and sip a cup of tea, enjoying the sun without sweating much. The other approach would be to go deeper into the country, to see further than the city... that’s where motorcycle riders like us have an edge. Discovering the fleet of DR650s at our guide’s house is like attending a 30-year high school reunion. These bikes have been around for most of our adult life and are like old friends, well known and perfectly dependable. It doesn’t take long for us to be grateful that Maurice Manco chose to stick with these lightweight and low seat dual sport bikes. Dealing with the morning traffic in La Paz is an exercise that no big motorcycle could achieve with such ease. In a flow of minivans that never care to stop or alter their course, where traffic jams are constant and traffic lights superbly ignored by all, a nimble bike is all that you want. After 30 minutes of crazy slalom in an atmosphere saturated by exhaust gas, we finally exit the city and get a glance of the wide-open space in front of us: the Altiplano awaits! Maurice had many lives before starting this touring business, ranging from math teacher to airline pilot, and he knows how to build an itinerary as big as life and full of surprises. After a bit of pavement, we take a right turn to finally get some dirt. We’re in the desolated land of the Andes, the same one that pilots of the defunct Aeropostale once flew over in their antic planes. Still, the view is nothing like we imagined, due to a thick fog hiding the surrounding summits. The ambiance is oppressing, to say the least, and the lack of oxygen at 14,000 ft doesn’t help. On a wet and slippery double track on the edge of a cliff, our troop of six riders progress with caution. Visibility is limited to a few hundred feet, and the white snowy summits close by are nowhere to be seen. We cross torrents, pass by small lakes and become more familiar with our DR650s.

A man walks a few llamas and stops to chat with us. He sells the animals to the small catholic community down in the valley, where we expect to spend the night. Later on, the fog eases a bit and we reach a village with a little school. The kids wait in line outside, and we take their place in the classroom to have lunch. It feels weird to eat with the whole village watching, but nobody’s making fun of us or judging. You can see that adults and kids alike are just here to share this time with us, in a simple manner that is refreshing in many ways. At this moment, we realize for the first time the importance of Moto Trails Bolivia tours. Bringing visitors to these communities out of the traditional tourist areas is vital for these people. The money they make with our lunch is important for the community, and we’re happy to be the ones participating in their economic success by taking these less traveled roads. We wave goodbye as we jump on the bikes, going down through the valley. The sun is now painting the hills with a yellow light that warms our hearts as we approach the world-famous lake Titicaca. We wander on the shore, watching fishermen taking off on small boats. It’s only a few moments before the night that we reach Escoma. We take our quarters in another school, sharing bunk beds and a single restroom with the students of this non-profit organization which offers lessons in wood carving and mosaics to young men of the area. The quality of their work is impressive, their dedication to their art real, and we feel really happy for them. A few weeks from now, we would discover that some 5-star hotels in La Paz use furniture made by these same students. Dinner consists of soup followed by rice and chicken, a menu that will be pretty much standard during the whole trip. A Trimate tea with a great percentage of coca leaves is welcomed as a dessert, as it helps deal with elevation and altitude sickness.

While we set up our sleeping bags, Maurice and his mechanics Hugo, Santos, and Pablo are changing the jets of the DR650s in the freezing night. It’s a grueling job made necessary by the change of elevation of tomorrow’s ride. We will be going down in the Amazonian forest, in what’s called the Yungas, at roughly 3,000 ft. The ten thousand foot change would have posed no problem for a fuel-injected bike, but the DR’s fuel system belongs to another era and there’s no way around some wrenching at the light of the Land Cruiser. The next morning, we start our journey to the Yungas, and it’s pretty much as if we were in a totally different country. As we go down in elevation, the heat goes up, and we soon use all the features of our Fox Legion gear. Removing the sleeves of the jacket is easier than ever and the vents on the pants are doing an incredible job, especially on the LT version where the mesh in the rear keeps the air flowing around the legs. On the trails, surrounded on one side by abundant tropical vegetation and on the other side by some dizzy cliff above a wild river, you’re never truly allowed to lose focus. Alongside the unexpected rocks, ruts, and puddles, there’s always the risk posed by traffic. Since these valleys host many small villages, it’s not unusual to see little cars cramped with passengers drifting from the four wheels in blind corners in a cloud of dust. Sometimes, you cross a bus, whose driver applies the same techniques in curves as a WRC pro racer. For the motorcyclist, there’s no hope of a sudden change of line by the bus driver, who won’t even slow down. The wisest course of action is to aim for the side of the road and let the roaring monster pass. This is a bit frightening but less so than when you have to follow these trucks, blinded by a wall of white dust raised by the wheels throwing silt powder all over the place. In these conditions, overtaking is an act of faith!

S end t he sea rc h

Not everything is that brutal in the Yungas though. Our guide always takes care of suggesting meaningful stops in places where we can relax and learn a bit about the culture of Bolivia. That’s how we enjoy a bath under a 300-foot waterfall, listen to a detailed explanation by a charming woman about the techniques involved in growing the delicious Bolivian coffee, or take the time to press sugar cane and drink the nectar right from the plant! This is a pure delight for our taste buds, and an opportunity for a testosterone contest when the farmer takes the stopwatch to see how fast we can turn the press. If the record is set to 5.5 seconds, the recuperation time in this humid climate is well over a minute! We also ride alongside fields of coca, and through small villages where people are drying the leaves of coca. The legal production is used for tea, while the illegal fields are used to produce coca that will be refined into cocaine. Not knowing who is doing what, we don’t ask questions, and assume that whatever we can see is probably legal.

Apolo, Guanay, Chulumani: each village offers an authentic but different kind of lodging, from an in-town hotel with swimming pool, to bungalows all having in common the quality of the meals and the kindness of the people in charge. Every night our group would leave the bikes and walk through the streets of the little towns, looking for a place to buy ice cream. That ritual allows us to enjoy the charming little towns a bit more and to engage in small conversations with the friendly locals, always eager to laugh with us. One day, a torrential rain puts a stop to our enthusiasm. On soap-like slippery trails, we have no choice but to test our riding skills in a no-traction world. Avoiding pedestrians, dogs, and 2WD cars sliding in the streets, we make it through the morning, happy to be on low and light bikes. A message sent via our Zoleo satellite communicator suddenly shows on our phones: the driver of our chase vehicle heard that the planned route is cut by a traffic incident, a truck laying down across the road. We find an alternative, thankful for this reliable way of communication that prevented us from wasting hours on a dead end! When the sun finally comes back, we dry up in no time and find ourselves in need of crossing a large river. Waiting under the burning sun for the improbable ferry built with two small boats linked by planks of wood, we are offered free drinks by locals who probably take us dirty riders in pity. The wait with warm temps, close to 100% humidity, and not much oxygen is exhausting. We could have easily passed out without these providential good Samaritans! The crossing itself, with the boat drifting sideways in the fierce current, is epic but luckily uneventful, proof that even without modern machines, the Bolivians can still get the job done with efficiency.

After five days in the jungle, it’s time to go back to the mountains and cross the Andes once more. Climbing from 10,000 ft at Inquisivi to reach 15,000 ft at the first pass, we take our time to avoid altitude exhaustion. If riding is okay, any stop and walk on the side of the road to admire the incredible scenery is taking a huge toll on our energy levels. On the side of the road, proud llamas are looking down at us, disdainful of our futile efforts. The temperatures dropping at an alarming rate, we layer up with the Legion wind vest and the packable jacket. At the pass, the 360 panoramic view is an invitation for a snack, before going down to the valley in the direction of the big town of Sucre. It is striking to think that just a few hours ago we were in a vegetal environment, with tropical heat and humidity, while all we see now is a mineral landscape in the freezing cold and a lack of oxygen that makes us feel like astronauts on the moon. Land of contrast, Bolivia so far delivered its promises of culture shock, stunning visual experiences, and a tiring journey. Little did we know that the best was yet to come!

RIDING IN BOLIVIA Flying to La Paz from USA requires at least one stop, usually at Bogota or Columbia, since the airport can only be reached by night because of the elevation. Visa requirements depend on the country of origin, with the US citizens having to pay a $100 fee. It’s easy to change cash at local ATMs, with one dollar being roughly equivalent to 7 bolivianos. High elevation, temperature change, and rough terrain are reasons why these motorcycle adventures are not for beginners but for experienced riders. The bikes are Suzuki DR650s in perfect condition and equipped with Trail Tech Voyager Pro GPSs. A 4x4 vehicle driven by two mechanics follows the group to provide assistance and carry the rider’s luggage. All information can be obtained on Moto Trails Bolivia’s website: www.mototrailsbolivia.com/en

A SPECIAL THANKS TO

FOR MAKING THIS ADVENTURE POSSIBLE

CHECK OUT THE VIDEO ON

ARIZONA

A PLAYGROUND

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY CHAD DE ALVA

Type the word Sedona into Google and you’ll see results for a red rock paradise in central Arizona. Images of hikers and mountain bikers in epic landscapes that look like a fusion of Moab, Zion, and something unique all rolled into one will cover your display. There will also be images of fancy resorts, wineries, and even some mentions of vortexes and other homeopathic oddities just to add breadth to the results. Sedona is a town that caters to everyone from dirtbag hippies to wine aficionados and every type of person in between. While they might not show up in the first few dozen search results, Sedona does have a number of trails for motorcycle riding that make it a great spot for a winter riding vacation. Sedona is surrounded by the Coconino National Forest, which means that there are miles of trails in almost every direction out of town. The trick to finding trails to ride is to use one of the Forest Service’s map resources, or a program like onX Offroad that pulls its data directly from the Forest Service. Do not assume that just because you see a road on Google Maps that you can ride on said road. Sedona is a very actively managed part of the world when it comes to trail use, so make sure that you’re riding on official trails and following TREAD principles. Trails are also actively closed and reopened as weather affects trail conditions, so again, know before you go.

Broken Arrow is a short and sweet multi-use 4x4 trail that works its way to some of the best views in Red Rock Country. It’s like a mini-Moab, with a good portion of the trail routed across slick rock formations that are a ton of fun to play around on. The trail ends at an overlook, where motorcyclists who are also mountain bikers will instantly recognize the famed “White Line.” Punch that one into YouTube if you need to get up to speed. The trail starts and ends right in town, so it’s a great trail to enjoy even if you only have a couple of hours to play. Two other trails that work their way through the heart of Red Rock Country are Van Deren Cabin and Schnebly Hill Road. Van Deren Cabin is another short and sweet ride, that takes you through some truly beautiful country and provides access to a few great hiking trails too. Pro tip: Use your moto to score great parking spots at some of the more well-known hikes in the area.

Schnebly Hill Road stretches the use of the word “road” a bit, but thankfully dirt bikes and ADV bikes can easily tackle the 15-odd miles of trail that has all of the embedded rocks in it. The road snakes its way up on top of the Mogollon Rim, and along the way you’ll find killer views and other neat trails to explore on foot. Once on top of the Rim, riders can use a network of Forest Service roads to connect to Flagstaff and other destinations. Other notable trails in the area are Greasy Spoon and Outlaw. These are multi-use trails, but they’re good fun on a bike, thanks to the way side-by-sides tend to berm all of the corners. Just keep an eye out for other user groups when you’re out there. Sedona is surrounded by public land on all sides, so it’s definitely a place that rewards exploring. Use onX Offroad, or an official resource like a Forest Service Motor Vehicle Use Map (MVUM) and you’ll find miles and miles of roads, trails, and single track in the surrounding Verde Valley and up on top of the Mogollon Rim. After you’ve had your fill of riding for the day, Sedona has no shortage of great places to eat, stay, or enjoy another form of recreation. If you’re looking for a place to escape the snow, or the cooler temperatures of fall and spring at home, Sedona is certainly worth checking out.

TEsted

BY CHAD DE ALVA

CYCLOPS TRAILBOSS PRO Despite what other riders may have told you, riding at night is awesome – you just need the right kit so that you can actually see where you’re going. The first step to making night riding an incredible experience is to have a good headlight in your bike. Cyclops Adventure Sports makes a couple of lights that are drop-in replacements for many modern dirt bikes. Named the TrailBoss and TrailBoss Pro, these drop-in lights are purpose built in Cyclops’ words to be the ultimate trail riding lights. There are a number of differences between the two lights that we’ll briefly touch on, but this tested piece focuses on the more powerful TrailBoss Pro. The TrailBoss is the light for bikes that have limited DC power available, or for riders that want a more affordable lighting upgrade. The TrailBoss pulls 28 watts of DC power, making it a great option for carbureted bikes that don’t generate as much power as their fuel injected brethren. With four CREE LEDs focused into two 10-degree and two 25-degree beams, the TrailBoss is rated for 3000 lumens of light output. The TrailBoss Pro cranks things up with a second light that brings total output to 8000 lumens. This second light has three unique beam patterns that add additional fill and distance lighting. Total power consumption on the TrailBoss Pro is 55 watts. Both lights are independently adjustable, so that you can get the lights pointed exactly where you want them, or to compensate for adding luggage or additional weight. Depending on the bike in which you’re installing the TrailBoss Pro, the process can be as simple as swapping headlight assemblies out. To try out the more involved end of the spectrum, we opted to install the TrailBoss Pro on a 2014 KTM 300 XC. This is a carbureted bike that can’t put out enough power in stock form, so we replaced the stock stator with a Trail Tech stator and rectifier, which outputs 100 watts of DC power. With sufficient DC watts on hand, we then turned to the wiring harness. The stock XC harness has a push-pull on/off switch for the headlight, so to take full advantage of the TrailBoss Pro’s functionality, we picked up a High/Low/ Off switch from Cyclops as well. Installing this switch in line with the stock wiring harness was a plug and play affair that took only a few minutes. Now the bike has a High Beam, Low Beam, and Off setting with the switch along with an extra button for a horn or kill.

TESTED: CYCLOPS TRAILBOSS PRO Rather than ease into riding at night with the TrailBoss Pro, we put together a loop in one of our backyard trail systems that has a little bit of everything: a quick stint of two lane tar that turns to dirt, a serving of faster singletrack that gets progressively more rocky and technical, and of course a bit of proper rock-donkey hard enduro trail. Nothing makes you appreciate your light at night like riding in the big rocks. Pulling out of the driveway with only the low beam on, it’s instantly apparent just how much better this light is than stock. As soon as we were away from the lights of town, we cranked up the High beam and were quite impressed with the TrailBoss Pro’s light output. Cyclops did a great job with the beam pattern on the TrailBoss Pro. It’s well distributed, and just as advertised, very well suited for trail riding at night. You’ve got plenty of light directly in front of the bike and you have great coverage off to the sides as well. This is key for usability, as trails don’t just go in a straight line. Remember, lumens is a measure of output at the light, and all of the lumens in the world are useless if they’re not aimed where you need them. Thankfully, Cyclops nailed the beam pattern on the TrailBoss Pro. Our test rider, who was running the light and was out for his first real night ride, stated that he felt like he could keep close to a daytime pace thanks to this light. Riding at night is great fun. It’s an awesome way to experience any trail in a whole new light, and a great way to beat the heat and crowds that inundate many areas in the summer months. The Cyclops TrailBoss Pro is a great addition to any bike, and even when a new stator is required, the process of getting one set up isn’t hard. The TrailBoss Pro provides a great amount of light that’s well distributed for trail riding. So whether you’re looking for an entry point into the night riding game, or just want peace of mind for day rides that run into night, the TrailBoss Pro is a great way to go. It’s backed by a company that’s easy to get a hold of and that provided our secret shopper great customer service, so you can feel good about working with Cyclops Adventure Sports. For more information on the Trail Boss or the TrailBoss Pro, visit www.cyclopsadventuresports.com

TESTED: CYCLOPS TRAILBOSS PRO

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TESTED

BY CHAD DE ALVA

Motorex Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner Air filter maintenance is most likely not your favorite maintenance task. If you’re still using an air filter oil that requires the use of gnarly chemicals or solvents to clean the filter, this is probably even more true. No one wants to deal with the hassle of properly storing, using, and disposing of chemicals that aren’t good for the environment. Thankfully, there is a better way. Enter Motorex’s Racing Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner, a system of air filter oil and cleaner that is completely biodegradable and so much easier to use, that you’ll wonder why you didn’t switch sooner. Cleaning an air filter the old way goes something like this: you ride your bike and get your filter dirty. You check your filter and convince yourself that you can get one more ride out of it. Depending on how lazy you are, you may repeat this step a few more times until things get really dirty – but then the day comes. You’ve finally decided to clean the filter. Depending on the system you’re using this may mean buckets of solvent or cans of aerosol cleaner. Either way, it’s a process and it takes time to get a filter clean. You have to get your solvent setup, clean your filter, then deal with your dirty solvent. Then you have to do the same thing with any rinse water. Since your rinse water is now contaminated with solvents, you shouldn’t be running that down the drain. But I’m not the EPA – I’m just saying, do the right thing. The point is, cleaning your filter is a project, which is why so many riders procrastinate on doing it.

T E S T E D : M o t o r e x B i o A ir F il t e r O il a nd C l e a ne r Yet, with Motorex Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner, the process goes like this: ride your bike and get your filter dirty. You check your filter, and while you certainly could get more use out of it, cleaning it is pretty darn easy, so why not run a cleaner filter more often so your bike can breathe easier? All you need is the cleaner and one small bucket. You head to the kitchen sink where you add a shake of Motorex Racing Bio Air Filter Cleaner powder to a few liters of warm water, and dunk your filter in. Let the filter soak for 10-15 minutes, then work it for a couple of minutes to get all the contaminants out. Rinse and dry the filter and you’re good to go. There is no solvent to manage – dirty wash water can go down the drain. Oiling the filter with Motorex Bio Air Filter Oil is just as easy. Take a one gallon zip-lock bag and toss your filter in, add oil and work (don’t wring) the filter to ensure even oil distribution. Then allow the filter to dry for two hours before using. If you have a second filter (and you should) you can store oiled filters in sealed bags. Motorex Racing Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner makes it easy to ensure that you have a perfectly clean filter. There’s no need to wait for contaminated solvent to settle out, and no worrying if aerosol cleaners are really getting every last bit of contaminated oil out of your filter. Dirty Bio Air Filter Cleaner can be run down the drain and mixing up more cleaner takes seconds, so making more cleaning solution is as easy as it gets. This means that you can have absolute confidence in the fact that your filter is completely clean before you rinse, dry, and oil it again. Protection wise, Motorex Racing Bio Air Filter Oil has performed flawlessly. We’re currently in the heart of dry season here in Arizona, and the trails and tracks are at their dustiest. Yet nothing from sand dune riding to silt has made it past the filter on any bike that we’ve used this air filter oil on. We’ve also experienced zero draining of the oil out of the filter. Motorex claims that the Bio Air Filter Oil prevents the penetration of water through the filter. While we haven’t had the opportunity to test this under riding conditions, some shade tree science has confirmed this claim. Yet don’t take that to mean that this oil makes your filter impervious to water. I’m sure if you try hard enough you can get water past the filter.

T E S T E D : M o t o r e x B i o A ir F il t e r O il a nd C l e a ne r

If you’re still oiling your air filter with an oil that requires gnarly chemicals or solvents to clean, you need to get on the bio oil train. With Motorex Racing Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner, air filter maintenance is so much easier. You no longer have to deal with handling, storing and disposing of gnarly chemicals. Bio Cleaner always gets a filter perfectly clean, and used cleaner can just go down the drain, making the process as easy as possible. The net effect of an easier cleaning process is that you’re more likely to clean your filter, which makes for a better running bike. Seriously – there is no reason not to use a bio air filter oil and cleaner. Protection wise, it works just as well if not better than the old school stuff, it’s easier to clean, and it’s better for the environment. So make the switch today. For information on Motorex Racing Bio Air Filter Oil and Cleaner, visit www.motorexusa.com

Indestructible and guaranteed for life Great visibility on road, fold away for the trail Lower profile with great stability

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EVERY UPSHIFT STORE PURCHASE HELPS SUPPORT THE FREE MONTHLY MAGAZINE!

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What you’re looking at is the result of my ability to fully embrace a project while simultaneously dismissing the amount of work involved. It’s one of my super powers. I needed a new motorcycle for the tour business I started this past year - something modern and reliable, fast and light, a long distance adventure bike for exploring Oregon’s backcountry. I chose the lightest, most powerful twin there is - the 890. It’s a perfect bike - it thrills me every time I ride it but I’ve never found it… sexy. As an ex racer I value function, but as an artist I need to be thrilled when I open the garage door and see the bike. Each year when the 1 Show rolls around I use it as a way to complete a project bike, but the 890 is not a project. I decide to break my golden rule - having at least one stock, unmodified motorcycle.

WORDS & PHOTOS: GREGOR HALENDA

SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

With two months to go, I decide that the 890, the stock, unmodified bike I bought for my new business, should and could be an opportunity to make the 890 sexy. A visual calling card I can ride. If you look at the bikes I’ve built over the years, paint does not play a part, color is absent. I like to feature the materials, but how do you do that with a bike that is mostly covered in plastic? I knew two things going in: I wanted a rally tower to give me better wind protection and lighting, also the look is fantastic rally bikes are pure function and that’s beautiful. The other was to get rid of all the color. Last fall, as I was packing for my first tour, I decided to pull the subframe covers off to make lashing the soft bags easier. The trellis subframe was beautiful and needed to be highlighted. Powder coating it white or silver seemed boring. I thought about the bikes in my garage that I find sexy - a Rickman Triumph and a Champion framed Penton. I knew that plating the frame in nickel, not chrome, was going to be the perfect way to set this bike apart. Nickel is slightly warmer than chrome and would match the soft gold anodizing of the WP forks. To simplify the subframe I needed to get rid of all the tabs and luggage mounts, which is okay as I’m not a fan of hard bags. Soft luggage doesn’t crush your leg if a dab off road goes wrong and is better suited to fast and light travel. With less than two months to go, I strip the bike down until it’s just a sad collection of parts littering the shop floor. Looking at the wiring harness I’m terrified. I take a lot of photos. Simultaneously I compile a comprehensive parts list: Rottweiler intake, WP XPLOR Pro suspension, SC Project titanium exhaust in a low mount to allow for soft luggage, Renazco seat, Highway Dirtbike handguards, narrower wheels (see issue 64) from Dubya so I can run my favorite Goldentyre 723R’s and finally, the thing I really wanted, a rally tower. The tower fixes four issues in one fell swoop: better wind protection, better lighting, more room for a giant tablet GPS and it looks cool as hell.

SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

As my idea of a blacked out 890 comes into shape I think about what parts I don’t want black, what I want to highlight. The clear tower screen is very cool but the complicated structure with all its folded angles and bends lifting up the instruments so they can be easily viewed while standing - that seemed like something you want to really see like a window into the brain of the bike. Remember those clear models you had as a kid? The design of the Aurora tower impressed me but the owner, Dimitri, impressed me more so I reached out to explain my idea: I want to build a bike that shows off the tower’s structure - can you make me a tower in unpainted aluminum? Dimitri understood what I was going for and immediately said yes. Too much black and the bike would lose its structure and become an amorphous shape. Certain details needed to contrast. The skid plate, from Ian Chappell in GB, was attractive in its laser cut simplicity so I’d leave it raw to carry the structure of the tower into the body of the bike. The nickel frame would tie into the subframe which would then wrap the carbon fiber airbox. My vision was taking shape. As I stripped the bike and gathered parts, Dimitri and I would exchange messages - he was really excited about the bike. When he shipped the tower, he sent quarter panels in carbon fiber because he had just started working with Papadakis Carbon and was excited about the part.

SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

TAP THE MAP FOR YOUR NEXT OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE Explore thousands of miles of interactive trails for 4x4, SxS, ATV, and dirt bikes across the nation. Color-coded trails let you see which are open with just a glance. Tap on any trail to access details like difficulty rating, clearance level, duration, open and close dates, trail photos, and more. Your paper maps can’t do that.

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SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

I now had two carbon fiber parts on the bike which got me looking for more. I found fenders, fork guards and the battery cover in twill weave by a company in Canada, Motocomposites. I mentioned to Dimitri that the only parts I couldn’t find were the side and inner fairings. “How much time do we have now before the show?” Dimitri asked. “Just two weeks,” I tell him. “I think we can do it,” he says. “Do what exactly?” “Make those parts in carbon fiber and match the weave of the other parts,” he answers. “It will look amazing!” I don’t disagree but I have my doubts with the timeline. As I’m machining parts, fussing with the details and sorting the rats nest of a harness with my friend Ben, Dimitri and Papadakis Carbon are pulling molds of the 890 panels that don’t exist in carbon fiber. Yet. This was never part of the plan. In fact, I’d ordered black bodywork and asked Chris and Brandon at UpShift if they could help with the graphics, as they know the panels of the 790/890 better than anyone. They created a subtle gray and black design with my logo. However, when carbon fiber became an option, I asked them to do a clear set so the carbon showed through. There’s not enough space to list all the parts that were changed or modified but this bike is nothing like what I started with. The seat sits at 38” high, the result of full 300mm factory rally spec suspension, taller tires and a slightly taller but narrower Renazco seat. The exhaust has a deep snarl that barely drowns out the intake roar and the tower transforms the feel allowing you to see your front wheel and still be protected.

SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

It’s beautiful but it’s a beast. With only hours before the 1 Show opens its doors I get an overnight package from Greece containing the only 890 carbon fiber fairings in the world. My friends Andy DiBrino and Isaac Siegl help apply the clear graphics. Friday morning I’m the very last bike to roll into the show. The finished bike far exceeds my original vision and much of that is thanks to Dimitri and Aurora. Not only am I’m thrilled with the look, but the largest 1 Show crowd ever felt the same way as the bike was awarded both of the “People’s Choice” awards. The show isn’t the end, of course. It needs to spend time on the dyno, the suspension will get adjusted, and the dash with its huge Tripltek tablet will be dialed in. It’s going to get new luggage and new camping gear and then it’s going to get dirty, scratched and abused. I can’t wait.

SAKU MOTO - KTM 890 ADVENTURE R

Aurora Rally tower with carbon fiber quarter panels Baja Designs Squadron Pro (high) Hella LED projector (low) with Can-Bus controller (Aurora Rally) WP XPLOR Pro Factory Rally 300mm suspension Rottweiler billet triple clamps with tapered roller bearing conversion in hard coat Titanium bolts for triple clamp Dubya Excel/Hahn wheels 1.85x21 front and 2.5x18 rear Goldentyre 723R rally raid tires Galfer wave rotors (not installed at time of shoot) Brembo monobloc calipers Brembo 19x20 radial Master cylinder Scotts damper Highway Dirt Bikes top clamp, handguards and mirrors KTM factory heated grips Carbon fiber tank shrouds and inner fairings by Papadakis carbon Carbon fenders, fork guards and battery cover by Motocomposites Tripltek 8 Pro 1200 nit waterproof android tablet Drive Mode dashboard app Thork Racing bluetooth remote map controller Magura hydraulic clutch conversion Power Commander V (Rottweiler) Rottweiler carbon fiber high flow airbox SC Project full titanium exhaust Titanium low mount exhaust hanger (Saku-Moto) Titanium rear luggage mount (not pictured) (Saku-Moto) Raptor Titanium footpegs - with titanium axles (Saku-Moto) Renazco Racing carbon/suede rally seat Anti-Gravity restart battery Custom graphics (clear/black) UpShift Tekmo carbon fiber tank guards (Rottweiler) Ian Chappel skid plate Frame/subframe modified, braced with new mounts welded and nickel plated (Saku-Moto) Remote seat release (Saku-Moto) Cyclops sequential turn signals/running lights Modified Rottweiler tail tidy with additional brake lights (Saku-Moto) Aluminum frame shock mount caps (Saku-Moto) Custom Tripltek tablet quick release tilt mount (Saku-Moto) Lengthened side stand 2” (Saku-Moto) Custom rear stand (Saku-Moto) Dirt Tricks 48T rear sprocket Fasteners shaved, custom turned washers (Saku-Moto)

THIS SUMMER, WATCH THE ENTIRE BDR FILM COLLECTION, FREE ON YOUTUBE

We are excited to announce that starting in late June, all eleven BDR Expedition films will be available to everyone, for free! Watch BDR grow from just a few riders and a big idea back in 2009 to a respected, non-profit organization that has become a household name in the ADV community today. Downloading or streaming the films commercial-free is still available on Vimeo for a small donation to BDR. Some titles are also available on Amazon. Follow our social channels for exact YouTube release dates. It’s because of your support over the years that we could make this happen. Thank you.

youtube.com/RideBDR

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BY TRAVIS GILL www.viajarMOTO.com

2022 is a great year for motorcycle touring and traveling! Most countries, throughout the world, are removing COVID measures and restrictions that kept many of us locked down in our own countries. Just a year ago, most of Europe was closed to American citizens, but based on our recent travels through Spain, France, and Italy, there is a sense of hope that summer tourists will soon be pouring into hotels, restaurants, beaches, and sites. Motorcycle tour companies are, once again, listing tours of Europe with many offering cost-free cancellations up to two months before the start of the tour. 2022 finally feels like the year that we can put the COVID pandemic in our sideview mirrors. If you’re considering motorcycle touring in Europe, one of the top destinations should be riding the various passes of the legendary Alps.

plethora of companies offering motorcycle rental options, one could easily be enjoying a week of carving through soul-stirring passes with names like Grossglockner, Grimsel, Splügen, Furka, Stelvia, and San Bernardino. This guide was created over a few weekends of studying the various Alp passes and linking them together in a route from Croatia to Germany. I had just completed the Illyria Raid UPSHIFT Issue 68 in Croatia, and needed a route that snaked through the most famous passes on my ride back to Germany. These twenty passes can be comfortably ridden in seven days, allowing you time to enjoy the experience of riding on some of the best roads in Europe, if not the world. This list is not comprehensive, but it covers some of the best and most famous mountain riding spread across the countries of Switzerland, Italy, Austria, and Slovenia.

SWITZERLAND 1. Klausen Pass 2. Susten Pass 3. Grimsel Pass 4. Furka Pass 5. Saint Gotthard Pass 6. Tremola Pass 7. Nufenen Pass 8. San Bernardino Pass 9. Splügen Pass 10. Maloje Pass 11. Flüela Pass 12. Umbrail Pass

Italy 13. Stelvio Pass 14. Gardena Pass 15. Campolongo Pass 16. Pordoi Pass 17. Sella Pass AUSTRIA 18. Silvretta-Hochalpenstraße 19. Grossglockner High Alpine Road SLOVENIA 20. Vršič Pass

20 ALPINE PASSES

The Alps may be a fantasy for most North American motorcyclists, but with a

20 ALPINE PASSES

Riding these passes is guaranteed to include many jaw dropping moments, where you are mesmerized by the surrounding beauty of massive mountain peaks, evergreen trees that stretch forever into the horizon, unique cyan-colored, high-mountain lakes, and of course, miles and miles of twisty, mountain-pass climbs and plummeting descents. There is no place on Earth quite like the European Alps. A Season for Riding Since many of these passes are over 2,000 meters (6,560 feet) high, they tend to be snow-covered for a large part of the year. June through September are the preferred times to ride the Alps if you want to avoid severe weather and seasonal road closures.

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Early June and September are ideal since most of the European families schedule holidays in the summer months when their children are on school break. Switzerland If you can only ride through one country of the Alps, Switzerland should not be missed. Breathtaking scenery, well-maintained tarmac, Alpine culture, and attractions all make this country my favorite for carving through steep switchbacked mountain passes. Klausen Pass-1 located south of Zürich, is the gateway to the Alps from the north. It is one of my favorites because it puts you in the heart of the Alps without the crowds that can clog the other more famous passes. Klausen provides enjoyable sweeping turns, tight switchbacks, cobblestone sections, and incredible views of granite peaks and forested cliffs. Keep your wits about you, it can be all too easy to get caught up in the incredible beauty that surrounds you. Continue south to enjoy “The Big Three” – Susten, Grimsel, and Furka. Susten Pass-2 is considered to be the most scenic of all the driving roads in the Alps. The 43 km (27 mile) length is sure to provide jaw-dropping moments where every corner seems to reveal another “wow moment” while passing through many rock tunnels and bridges carved into the mountain’s face. Make sure to kick down the side-stand at Stein Glacier and take in the majestic mountain views. Not to be missed!

20 ALPINE PASSES

The long smooth hairpins and generous bends of Grimsel Pass-3 create a wonderful natural flow that is bound to put a grin on your face, as you gently nudge the handlebars through the rhythmic roadway. Stop at the ridge to enjoy the cooler subarctic winds and soak in the splendid views of Lake Totensee. Furka Pass-4 is easily one of the most famous passes, thanks to the 1964 James Bond film Goldfinger in which 007 drives his tricked-out Aston Martin DB5 through the glacier views, craggy mountaintops, and the iconic Hotel Belvedere. This high mountain pass is one of the highest roads in Europe, so pack a sweater

The route continues to snake through Switzerland, reaching Saint Gotthard Pass-5, also known as the King of Alpine Passes due to its historic origin. If you have a moment, stop by the National Gotthard Museum to learn about the history and the tremendous efforts that have been made to build the pass, including the legend of The Devils Bridge – the first bridge built here in the 13th century. While you’re in the area, don’t miss Tremola Pass-6. This old pass road is the longest road monument of Switzerland and continues to maintain its original state since it was built in 1832. You’ll be feeling reminiscent while riding along the 4 km (2.5 mile) length of narrow granite cobblestones, 24 hairpin curves, and historic stone walls. Most travelers will skip Nufenen Pass-7 in order to avoid making a big loop. However, Nufenen is a great pass to enjoy if you want a bit more solitude from the summer traffic. If you have the time, it’s worth exploring the loop that will have you riding through Furka, Gotthard, Nufenen, Furka (again), and finally Tremola, on your way east towards San Bernardino Pass.

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or thermal liner to wear under your motorcycle jacket.

20 ALPINE PASSES

The summit of San Bernardino Pass-8 offers some of the most magnificent wide-open views of Switzerland with grand vistas, mountain lakes, and the concrete path of more than 40 hairpin corners that gently slither through the landscape. This region of the country is often called the Swiss Riviera due to the warmer temperatures and more sunlight. After reaching the city of Splügen, you’ll turn south, where you are greeted by a steep climb with four hairpin curves and then a nice open section before reaching the craziness of ten extremely tight hairpins of Splügen Pass-9, that will make you glad you are riding a motorcycle with the increased maneuverability and ground clearance. Continue the climb up and over the Switzerland/Italian border and then descend towards the Italian alpine village of Montespluga. You’ll be grateful for open borders between most western European countries, because in just 41 km (25 miles), you’ll be returning to Switzerland and riding towards Maloje Pass.

20 ALPINE PASSES

Maloje Pass-10 isn’t long but it’s packed with excitement – 15 steep hairpin corners are jam-packed within a memorable 3 km (2 miles) of wonderful tarmac. Just Google pictures of “Maloje Pass” and you’ll see why it’s one of the most photographed roads in the Alps! Flüela Pass-11, which features a lovely mix of long straight-aways, light curves, and a few serpentines thrown in for fun! Flüela pass provides an excellent riding experience that is faster than other mountain passes. There is a reason the British television program Top Gear considers it to be one of the best riding roads in Europe. Our last pass of Switzerland is the highest paved road of Umbrail Pass-12 featuring 35 hairpin turns and wide-open views of majestic alpine scenery. This road is only open from June to October and doesn’t get as much tourist traffic. The narrow roadways make it difficult for cars or vans to pass, but it’s perfect for a motorcycle! Side Trip to the Home of an Iconic Knife I doubt few readers have never heard of the Swiss Army Knife. This iconic knife with the Swiss shield displayed on its red handle has been a symbol of Swiss quality since the company Victorinox started making them for the Swiss Army in 1897. When we heard that larger retail stores would let you build your own custom knife, we knew it would be worth the diversion to their main store in Brunnen. The Brunnen store is just 10 minutes from the original manufacturing warehouse where Victorinox continues to design and assemble knives today. Italy Much of the charm of riding through the Alps of Europe is that you get to experience so many different cultures. Italians, in general, have a much more laid-back approach to life compared to the Swiss. Be prepared for more aggressive driving as well – it seems every Italian has a bit of Mario Andretti in their bloodline. It’s also worth taking some time to relax and enjoy the various cafes and restaurants while basking in the incredible mountain scenery of the Italian Alps.

After riding south through Umbrail Pass, you’ll cross the border into Italy, and then make the steep descent down Stelvio Pass-13. Park at the top and take a moment to marvel at the 48 hairpin turns that drop down the steep mountain face. Not much of this pass has changed since it was built in 1825 by the Austrian Empire, including the narrow width. Side Trip to the Lorenz Kuntner Museum After descending the last switchback of Stelvio Pass, continue 9.1 km (5.7 miles) to the home and museum of artist Lorenz Kuntner. In the 1990’s, Kuntner left his job as a clerk to pursue his interest in art and sculpture, and created an outdoor gallery that is reminiscent of a Route 66 roadside oddity. His brightly colored engraved totems, painted river rocks, pendants, and iron sculptures shamanism and Native American cultures.

The Italian Dolomites Few regions of northern Italy can capture the splendor and natural beauty of the Dolomite mountain range. Fortunately, there are four wonderful passes to enjoy the surrounding beauty of this region, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. The northern pass of Gardena Pass-14 offers splendid views of quaint mountain resorts, and lush green meadows, crowned with the stunning jagged peaks of the Langkofel mountain range. Not to be missed! It’s so picturesque, that it’s worth driving twice in order to make a complete loop around Piz Boè mountain. Campolongo Pass-15 continues the splendid scenery, but the road noticeably narrows a bit. Perfect for motorcycling, where a downshift, and the roll of a throttle, make it easy to pass slower moving traffic. This short section of only 10 km (6.2 miles) packs in 20 satisfying hairpin corners! Continuing the circle clockwise places you on Pordoi Pass-16 where you’re rewarded with another 48 sweeping corners and switchbacks, guaranteed to bring a smile, and perhaps the feeling of the Italian word for breathtaking – Mozzafiato! Head north to complete the circle known as the “Tour of the Four Passes” as you roll through Sella Pass-17. This short, but memorable 11 km (6.8 mile) section, continues the tour with stunning mountain scenery and over 20 twisty corners.

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that use natural materials such as feathers, bones, and wood are inspired by

Austria The country of Austria continues the Alp experience but with its own unique culture and cuisine. Don’t miss the opportunity to eat Kaiserschmarrn (Fluffy Pancakes) and Wiener Schnitzel – It’s not anything that resembles the fast food chain in America. Silvretta-Hochalpenstraße-18 is one of the most popular mountain roads of the Alps and has earned the nickname “the dream road for connoisseurs”. You’ll be enjoying numerous sweeping corners, 34 hairpin bends, and spectacular mountain views of Silvretta and Vermont lakes, while relishing in its 22.3 km (13.9 miles) length. Due

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to the popularity of this mountain pass, traffic is controlled via a toll of 14.50 Euros (~15.30 USD) for motorcyclists. Speaking of tolls, the next pass on our list has a steep entrance fee of 28 Euros (~29.60 USD) per motorcycle! Although this sounds extreme, you’ll soon be forgetting the high toll cost as you relish in one of the most enjoyable motorcycle rides of your life. Grossglockner High Alpine Road-19 is not to be missed on your tour of the European Alps. In need of further inspiration? Just Google “Grossglockner Motorcycle Diaries” and enjoy the video that converges the symphonic beauty of classical music to the stunning videography of this iconic stretch of 48 km (29.8 miles) of alpine excellence.

Side Trip to Kehlsteinhaus A short detour from Grossglockner High Alpine Road brings you to the southeast of Germany and to a famous mountain retreat known in German as Kehlsteinhaus. Probably better known to English speakers as The Eagle’s Nest, this Nazi era building was built as a vacation site for high-level nazi party members. Adolf Hitler is documented to have visited Kehlsteinhaus 14 separate times after it was built in 1937. Today, visitors can enjoy a tour of the marble tunnel, elevator, and stunning mountain scenery from the 1,834 m (6,017 ft) subpeak.

Slovenia Veteran riders of the Alps may be wondering why Slovenia? Because, in general, Slovenia has less tourism and lower prices compared to other popular riding destinations. Although I’ve only included one pass here, one could easily enjoy riding through more of Slovenia discovering the diverse natural beauty and hospitality of this wonderful eastern European country. Vršič Pass-20 is Slovenia’s highest mountain pass and part of the Julian Alps range. It’s a 24 km (15 miles) pass through Triglav National Chapel, at hairpin 8, is worth a short stop. It was built by Russian prisoners during WWI that were forced into building the road, and serves as both a war memorial and a symbolic link between Slovenia and Russia. Towards the west of Vršič Pass is a worthwhile diversion to Mangart Saddle, where you’ll experience sweeping summit views of the Julian Alps and the neighboring countries of Italy and Austria. Summary With European countries opening up, flights between North America and Europe being plentiful, and the multitude of motorcycle rental opportunities in Europe, it’s a great time to consider riding some of the most beautiful paved roads of Europe. The Alps are calling. Answer the call.

About viajarMOTO Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020 with the hopes of seeing and experiencing the different countries and cultures of the world. You can follow them on their website at www.viajarMOTO.com

20 ALPINE PASSES

Park, and features 50 hairpin curves. The Russian

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