Upshift Issue 68 - April 2022 by UPSHIFT

Issue 68

April 2022

Photo: F. Montero

ADVENTUR MORE

Fuel your restless spirit with a new adventure every day. Receiving selected upgrades for 2022, the KTM 390 ADVENTURE is here to let every biker go out and adventure even more. No matter the wildness of the trail or the demands of daily mileage, this is a highly capable and exhilarating exploration companion every step of the way.

FIND OUT MORE AT KTM.COM Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations. The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost. * European specific model shown

S e n d t h e se arc h

ISSUE 68 April 2022

Issue 68

INSTA-ADV

April 2022

y information: These drawings contain information y to Upshift. Any reproduction, orCover transmittal of this on without expressed written consent is prohibited by Chad de isAlva se partial or complete of the sord marks prohibited hable to the full extent of the law.

Design, Production Chris Glaspell

Instagram Travelers

LOGO SHEET

THE INSIDER Air-Cool

Contributing Writers Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill Contributing Photographers Alessio Corradini Chad de Alva Olivier de Vaulx Travis Gill

BLACK

PMS 021

RGB: R255 B255 G2550

RGB: R255 B80

CMYK: C40 M30 Y30 K100

CMYK: N80 Y100

GEAR

The Latest

WIDE OPEN

Views Through The Lens

Technical Editor Chad de Alva

horizontal on white KLIM FROZEN COW TAG

Story Editor Stefanie Glaspell

Snowbiking in Idaho

Business Development Brandon Glanville

ILLYRIA RAID

Off-Road Through the Balkans Want to advertise with us? Contact: Brandon Glanville brandon@upshiftonline.com

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SNOWBIKE TECH

Tools for the Snow

Join us on Instagram at @ upshift_online Join us on Twitter at @upshift_online

NEW MEXICO BDR

Join us on Facebook at facebook.com/upshiftonline

Part Two

BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA

A Winter Paradise No Longer In Conflict

Upshift Magazine is published monthly by Upshift Online Inc. 2022. Reproduction of any material requires written consent from the publishers. All photos, editorial contributions and advertisements are accepted upon representation that they are original materials by the author and or advertiser. Opinions expressed in the articles are those of the author and may not reflect the views and opinions of the editor, staff or advertisers of Upshift Online Inc. Advertisers assume full responsibility for the entire content and subject matter of their advertisements.

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INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

DEDICATED TO RIDER PROTECTION

Photo courtesy of Triumph Motorcycles Ltd.

XD4 • COVER WHITE FROST

THE ARAI DIFFERENCE At Arai, not only the management, but its owner also knows the mission to protect riders and continues learning how a helmet works to protect the wearers against riding impacts. Witnessing how severe and unpredictable some impacts can be, Arai’s focus continues to be the consistent pursuit of gains in protection for helmets bearing our family name.

SCAN TO SEE THE VALUE OF ARAI VIDEO

When a helmet is impacted, the inner liner is crushed, absorbing impact energy in the process. The liner’s ability to absorb impact energy varies depending on the helmet’s construction and thickness in its upper regions. But Arai helmets, with their proprietary one-piece multi-density EPS liner, can maintain a consistent thickness even in areas where high levels of energy absorption are needed. The helmet remains compact by forming different EPS densities into a single liner of uniform thickness while still satisfying strict helmet standards.

SCAN TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE XD4

THE ULTIMATE OFF-ROAD PACK

Transmis s 2-Stroke

2-Stroke

Engine O

ion Oil

Performance and reliability. The results of a close racing and development partnership between MOTOREX and KTM. #Raceproven quality.

WWW.MOTOREXUSA.COM

Photo: MY21 KTM 300 EXC TPI SIX DAYS | Marco Campelli

KAGE

AIR-COOL By Chad de Alva

After spending so much time riding on modern bikes with their fly-by-wire throttles, lean sensitive ABS, quick-shifters, and slip adjust systems that let you pull off prodigious power slides, riding a bike like the DR 650 feels like taking a step back in time. Riding a DR is a unique experience and no less enjoyable than a modern motorcycle. Bikes like the DR use mechanical means to do many of the things run by computers on modern bikes. The carburetor can produce imperfect results at times, giving the bike its own unique character. It’s certainly not the computer-curated experience of a modern bike where you just push a button and the bike purrs to life. On bikes like the DR, you are the slip control and the ABS. Your input isn’t filtered through a computer – for better or worse what you put in directly dictates what you get out. Grabbing all of the front brake will lock the front wheel up, so late braking into that corner is all on you. Yet that is precisely what makes these bikes so much fun to ride. There’s just something that never gets old about an all-manual riding experience. It’s very fulfilling to have total control over a bike and to be able to ride one well. It’s a challenge each and every time you get on the bike to find the limits without a computer to catch you when you go too far. Motorcycles are inherently fun to ride. They come in many different flavors that provide so many unique experiences that you’re severely limiting yourself if you only ever try a few. Never turn down the chance to try a bike for the first time – you may very well find yourself on a bike that you wish you had sampled sooner.

MSC RM3 Moto Steering Damper Kit For Yamaha 700 Tenere Designed and implemented since 2016, the RM3 steering damper is the perfect solution for adventure and dual sport motorcycles. The RM3 is a blend of the two most successful MSC Moto steering damper models to date. Using the body design features from the ever-popular RM2 Steering Damper unit and merging that with the class-leading adjuster system of the MSC Moto AXIS steering damper. Each part is CNC machined in Australia by the same guys who design, develop, and manufacture the parts. Every part is hand-assembled and checked in-house at the MSC Products Factory before getting shipped out. MSRP: $549.00. www.mscmotoamericas.com Features • Complete kits with everything required to install • 20 position main adjuster • Easy to adjust with adventure gloves • Bar riser included with most models • Low friction main shaft seal (less wear, no leaks) • 1 year warranty • Stainless steel, high quality fasteners • Durable black anodizing for better surface wear • Special compound longer lasting seals • Billet single piece tool steel vane NOT 2 parts pinned together • Hand built in Australia

Trail Tech Introduces new GeoPDF Maps Load custom GeoPDF maps directly into Voyager Pro. Find GeoPDF files around the internet (or make your own) and import them to Voyager Pro using the MicroSD card. Voyager Pro will handle the conversion, warping the GeoPDF to fit perfectly on the Voyager Pro map screen. It’s like using your favorite paper map with map legends, call outs, and ride area details directly on your display. Planning on going snow biking? Load the local snow map showing ride area details with boundaries. Planning your next overlanding trip in a new area? Load your favorite land usage maps. Wanting to have some Geocaching fun? Select the best map for your adventure. The custom map possibilities are endless, capped only by your ability to find GeoPDF maps on the internet or the skills to make your own. www.trailtech.net

Please make no attempt to imitate the illustrated riding scenes, always wear protective clothing and observe the applicable provisions of the road traffic regulations! The illustrated vehicles may vary in selected details from the production models and some illustrations feature optional equipment available at additional cost.

parallel twin

Photo: R. Schedl, R. Steinke, KISKA GmbH

889 cc

449 lb

husqvarna-motorcycles.com

As long as you are on planet Earth, you’re not lost. Trust in the north.

N o r d e n

the entire globe is a playground just waiting for you to explore. inspired by the north and built for the world, the norden 901 is a rugged travel machine ready to face the unknown.

9 01

Seat Concepts Africa Twin CRF1100L One-Piece Comfort Seat Ready for simplicity? Seat Concepts has released a unique One-Piece seat for Honda Africa Twin CRF1100L models. This new design will eliminate not only the kit installation process but also the need to remove two seats to fully access your storage space. True to our Comfort style, this seat boasts a widened seating area and a platform made from our proprietary formulation of foam. We dished out the seating pocket to provide a more level seating area and to help alleviate the forward slope of the seat without affecting reach to the ground. The One-Piece platform additionally provides a 1/2 inch lower seat height without giving up any comfort (compared to the OEM twopiece seat in the OEM low position). Fitment: 2020-22 Honda Africa Twin, 2020-22 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sport . MSRP: $384.99 www.seatconcepts.com

Dunlop K950 Off-Road Tire The DOT-approved K950 trials tire K950 delivers the kind of performance trail riders and off-road enthusiasts are looking for, with additional durability and on-road capability. www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com Features: • The K950 features bias-ply construction, and compounds and tread pattern designed to tackle tough single-track terrain and challenging conditions. • In both wet and dry conditions, the K950 excels when the course or trail turns hard-packed, rocky, or littered with tree roots. • For dual-sport riding, the K950 provides a smoother ride and longer wear than a traditional knobby tire on the street, while providing a high level of grip and bump-absorbing compliance in the dirt. • Available from your local Dunlop retailer, the Dunlop K950 comes in a 4.00-18 size and joins the premium performance D803GP™, Dunlop’s competition trials tire.

Ténéré 700. Find new horizons. www.YamahaMotorsports.com

Professional rider depicted on a closed course. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long sleeves, long pants, gloves and boots. European spec model shown. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. ©2021 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved.

WIDE OPEN

NEW MEXICO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

GREECE

PHOTO: ALESSIO CORRADINI

WIDE OPEN

WYOMING

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

COLORADO

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PROVEN PERFORMANCE FOR THE LONG HAUL

The DR-Z400S. Arguably the most proven on- & off-road motorcycle ever created. Built to thrive in any terrain. Experience the machine that literally defines the word DualSport. This ride needs no introduction, its 400cc liquid-cooled, single-cylinder engine produces predictable, tractable power for any road or trail. You won’t think twice about your line thanks to its light yet rigid frame coupled to a fully-adjustable suspension. And its unwavering reliability means you can ride everywhere with complete confidence. With the world at your tread, enjoy adventure on a bike that has stood the test of time — and keeps asking for more.

EXPERIENCE THE CAPABLE DR-Z400S AT

SUZUKICYCLES.COM

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2022 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

WIDE OPEN

COLORADO

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

IDAHO

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

WIDE OPEN

GREECE

PHOTO: ALESSIO CORRADINI

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

NEW MEXICO

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

CALIFORNIA

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

WIDE OPEN

ARIZONA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

2O22 25O / 3OO

4 1

2 3

The Flagship Enduro Bike 1) EASY ACCESS AIR FILTER

2) AUTOMATIC OIL INJECTION 3) MAP SWITCH

4) ELECTRIC STARTER 5) ZF FORKS WITH ENHANCED PLUSHNESS AND TOOL-LESS ADJUSTABILITY 6) COUNTER BALANCED ENGINE 7) DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH FOR MORE TORQUE AND LESS RIDER FATIQUE 8) ADJUSTABLE POWER VALVE

KLIM

FROZEN COW TAG ::S N O W B I K E R I D E::

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A Snow bike is what you get when you trade out the wheels on a dirt bike for a track at the back and a ski at the front. This makes your dirt bike a snow slaying machine, and when you have a good snow pack, you can ride just about anywhere. You can weave through the trees, side-hill up that gully, jump off of cornices and wind rows, and with fresh snow on the ground the whole experience is like riding on an endless fluffy cloud. Klim is well versed in all things snow bike thanks bile gear. For the last few years they’ve been hosting an event they call the Frozen Cow Tag Snow Bike Ride – the wintertime snow bike version of their Cow

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to their more than 20 year history making snowmo-

Cow Tag follows the same basic formula as the offroad event in that the objective is to ride to as many

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Tag Off-Road Ride featured in ISSUE 24. Frozen

prizes and raise money for local trail advocacy groups. Frozen Cow Tag is held on the flanks of Sawtelle Peak, west of Island Park, Idaho. The event area encompasses thousands of acres of terrain that has

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cow tags as possible, earning raffle tickets to win

lower elevations you’ll find all of the tight trees, which start to open up as the slopes increase. Moving further up the mountain you’ll find open meadows, steeper slopes, and larger gullies – the kind of country that snow bikes were made for. Klim did a great job sprinkling cow tags all over the event area by making some tags attainable for new riders, and other tags more challenging to reach, keeping things interesting for experienced riders. Unlike the off-road ride where collecting cow tags is a game of strategically riding trails to get from tag to tag, at Frozen Cow Tag all of the tag locations are provided as GPS waypoints, leaving it up to the riders to determine how to get from tag to tag.

:: K L I M

something for every type of snow bike rider. In the

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:: K L I M F R O Z E N

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In groups of at least two, following proper backcountry protocol, riders set off in all directions in search of cow tags. Each cow tag is tied to a feather banner to make finding the tags stashed in the trees easier. But just because you can see where the tag is on a GPS, doesn’t mean that you can ride straight to it. It’s hard to keep heading in an endless sea of trees. For riders who are used to the concept of “follow this trail, it will take you where you need to go,” the freedom of navigation at Frozen Cow Tag made for

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an entertaining navigation experience. Not only do you need to focus on riding your snow bike, but you simultaneously need to read the terrain and keep yourself moving in the right direction – something akin to Rally navigation. Riders at the event really enjoyed the open navigation format. It was fun to watch different groups of riders trying to get to the same cow tag; one group ended up finding a much

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quicker route than the other, simply because they chose to go up the left side of a gully instead of the right. This made for some great bench racing and friendly competition that event participants really enjoyed. Frozen Cow Tag is more than just a great day spent riding snow

:: K L I M

bikes. All of Klim’s Cow Tag events raise money for motorized recreation advocacy efforts and the event’s respective user group. Frozen Cow Tag raises money for the Idaho Single Track Alliance and Avalanche forecast Centers on behalf of the Avalanche Alliance. This advocacy support is also why many industry companies support the event and donate prizes to the raffle. Another impressive aspect of Frozen Cow Tag is the backing that the event receives from government agencies like Idaho State Parks, and The United States Forest Service. Both agencies had officials at the event who worked behind the scenes to help plan the event, place and recover cow tags, and serve on the event’s safety team. This collaboration between users, industry companies, and government agencies is a powerful partnership, one that is providing significant benefit to motorized users in Idaho.

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Frozen Cow Tag is an outstanding riding event. Take the proven Cow Tag format, throw in snow bikes and open navigation, and you have one incredibly fun, unique riding experience in some spectacular country. If you haven’t had the chance to ride a snow bike yet, you need to make it happen. If you want to explore eastern Idaho backcountry, have a great time riding a snow bike, and have the chance to win prizes and most importantly raise money for trail advocacy, you need to check out Frozen Cow Tag. Keep an eye on Klim’s website in Q1 of each year for information on the event. Speaking of Klim, while we were in Idaho, we had a chance to pop into Klim’s HQ to get a peek behind the “Employees Only” door of the brand that makes world renown snow, motorcycle, and off-road riding gear.

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THE NEW

WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY / WORLD-CLASS VENTILATION / ALL-WEATHER ADV PROTECTION / KLIM D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR

B A D L A N D S P R O J A C K E T & PA N T / K R I O S P R O H E L M E T / E D G E G O G G L E

KLIM.COM #KLIMLIFE

BEHIND THE BRAND – KLIM Walking into KLIM’s HQ, the first thing that catches your eye are all of the big TVs displaying awesome riding footage shot from all around the world. From GSAs in Peru to 300 two-smokes in Turkey taking on the Red Bull Sea to Sky Hard Enduro, every discipline of riding is covered, and like any good riding video, it gets you stoked. Then your eyes start to take in all of the gear on display in this retail

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store called the KLIM Experience Center. The entire OffRoad and Motorcycle lines are on display in the summer months and the whole store flips over to snow gear in the winter months. Seeing the entire product line in one place is something to behold – and the whole experience feels like being in a big kid candy store. Yet we’re not just here to shop the latest and greatest KLIM gear – we’re here to see how this gear, the exact same gear that has enabled so many awesome riding experiences around the world, come to life. It turns out the process is much more involved than you might expect. It’s easy to think that riding gear is simple to manufacture.

:: K L I M

All you need to do is pick out some cool looking fabric colors, add some zippers, pockets, vents, pads, and call it a day. Yet in reality, the process of developing some of the most advanced riding gear on the market is much more complicated. Take for instance KLIM’s Badlands Pro jacket, which has more than 200 various panels of fabric and 300 stitched joints. Each fabric panel and each stitched joint have to be carefully considered, so that the final product can pass testing for a CE Double-A rating (or a triple-A rating in the Badlands Pro AAA) and keep you dry, comfortable, and fully protected no matter where your ADV ride takes you. The process of creating riding gear like the Badlands Pro is quite impressive – something that seems much more like developing a motorcycle than developing a mere jacket.

The KLIM product development process starts with an idea. Sometimes it’s sparked by a thought to the effect of “we need to create a product that does X,” and other times it’s spawned by the potential found in a fancy new textile; a “what can we create with this rad new textile” exercise. Either way, a product line manager will define a product and then pass that concept off to the design team to flesh the concept out. If KLIM is working from the top down on a product (developing a product that does X), the design team will start to identify textiles that will complement each other to help the completed product perform as needed. Thanks to their relationships with key technology partners, KLIM has access to a broad

make the best riding gear out there. This is where KLIM’s deep understanding of how textiles work, and how they work together enables the company to produce products that are next level. Take for example the Super-Fabric panels found on the Badlands Pro. KLIM uses four unique Super-Fabric panels in the jacket alone. Each panel is customized to its location on the jacket for left and right elbows and shoulders, and for each different size of jacket from small the 3XL. Folding Super-Fabric makes the panel cup around a shoulder or elbow, contouring it for a nice fit. However, using off-the-shelf Super-Fabric would make the ceramic bead material too thick at the folds, resulting in a very stiff and uncomfortable panel.

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Having access to even the most exotic textiles in the world doesn’t mean you can

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of environments for any type of rider and riding condition.

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spectrum of materials that can be employed to build garments that work in all sorts

eliminate unnecessary beads on the fold and stitch areas, creating less bulk and stiffness around those panels. KLIM’s garment design is also influenced by their ever-expanding data set of real world crash data, which is a result of the company’s Gear Protection Guarantee program. When a rider has a crash in qualifying KLIM gear, they can submit that gear to KLIM for a free replacement, and KLIM is able to collect data from that crashed-in gear. Factors such as speed, riding surface, garment damage, and injuries sustained are all compiled into a database that provides invaluable insight into how their gear actually works in real world situations. While many other manufactures just design to achieve a certain CE rating, KLIM is able to target CE ratings and apply their knowledge from real-world crash data, which is just one more example of how the company is able to push the state of the art development in technical riding gear.

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KLIM worked with Super-Fabric to develop Super-Fabric patterning that would

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Going behind the scenes at KLIM provided an eye-opening look at the complex process of making world-class riding gear; a process that KLIM has clearly got a good handle on. The team at KLIM is constantly working to develop innovative new products and refine existing products all in the name of improving the rider’s experience. By incorporating user feedback with state of the art materials, advanced manufacturing processes, real world crash data and their extensive riding gear development experience, KLIM is able to create outstanding technical riding gear. For more information go to www.klim.com.

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DIGITAL GAUGES FAN KITS KICKSTANDS RADIATOR GUARDS

Trail Tech manufactures products by riders, for riders. With vertically integrated engineering and production teams, Trail Tech stands behind its products with world-class tech support. Adventure begins here! PHOTO: @offroadundergroundofficial

#ridetrailtech

Words: Travis Gill

Photos: Alessio Corradini

When you think of “Europe” what is the first thing that pops in your head? Perhaps France, Spain, Germany, Norway, the United Kingdom, or some other western country? Chances are you don’t think of the Balkan region of southeastern Europe; countries that became independent from the former communist country of Yugoslavia in the 1990s. Countries like Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and North Macedonia. Or perhaps the country of Albania, that was known as the “North Korea of Europe” because it was so isolated from the rest of Europe for much of the 20th century. So when I was approached by Adam, a friend from work, to join him for a week-long, off-road event called the Illyria Raid, I was easily persuaded. Especially considering that we would be riding through many countries that I hadn’t previously heard of and that I was eager to explore and experience.

WHAT IS THE ILLYRIA RAID? For those that are unfamiliar with the Illyria Raid, it’s a non-competitive overland event where participants ride dirt bikes, quads, or side-by-side vehicles (SSVs) through multiple countries in the Balkan region of Eastern Europe. Each day you can expect to ride 150-215 miles, with 75 percent of it being off-road, and ending the day in a three-star hotel. The 7-day event typically crosses 6-7 countries with each day being a unique and different experience. During our 7 days we experienced all types of terrain from gravel and rocky trails, river crossings, mud puddles, forest roads, grass valleys, and jagged mountain passes.

LOGISTICS The best part of an organized event like the Illyria Raid is that everything is taken care of, short of paying the entrance fee and getting to the starting point with your motorcycle. Since the start of the Raid was in Greece and we didn’t have much vacation time, we opted to ride our motorcycles two-hours from our home in western Germany to Belgium, and ship them to the start point under the expertise and care of Enduro Adventure Organization (EAO) – a club that specializes in organizing raid, rally, and training events all over Europe and northern Africa. For a very reasonable price they delivered Adam’s Yamaha XT250 and my BMW G650GS Sertão, along with some duffle bags full of our personalized gear, to the start of the raid. At the end of the raid, they even packed everything up for delivery back to Belgium. Easy. The hotels, lunches, GPS files, road-books, support mechanics, medical staff, and a van that loads your personal belongings, are all included in the entrance fee. They even track every rider with a GPS receiver that can be activated in the event of a crash, accident, or breakdown. The entire event, from the registration process to the final awards presentation, was extremely well organized. Adam and I flew to Greece and rode a cab to the hotel that was to be the start of the event. Speaking of hotels – the organizers chose some of the nicest hotels I’ve ever stayed in. Unfortunately we didn’t have much time to enjoy them because we were riding all day, devouring dinner, and then crashing on our pillows for the next day of riding. It turns out that riding off-road for 200+ miles, day after day, can be quite exhausting! Hats off to the professional riders, like Mason Klein (UPSHIFT Issue 64), who ride over 500 offroad miles in a single day.

GREECE – MORE THAN MEDITERRANEAN ISLANDS Chances are when you think of Greece you envision the beautiful blue Mediterranean sea, the picturesque seaside town of Santorini, or the ancient temple Parthenon. However, I’m here to report that there is so much more to Greece. Our route through the northern part of the country included riding dirt roads into the Pindus Mountain Range, that winds through the spine of Greece. I was grateful that we were not in a race, because there were plenty of opportunities to stop and take in the wonderful views of mountain peaks and valleys blanketed in early morning fog. An adventure motorcycle or dual-sport seemed like the perfect way to explore this region of Greece since even the nicest paved roads had their share of pot-holes and washed out shoulders.

TAP THE MAP FOR YOUR NEXT Explore thousands of miles of interactive trails for 4x4, SxS, ATV, and dirt bikes across the nation. Color-coded trails let you see which are open with just a glance. Tap on any trail to access details like difficulty rating, clearance level, duration, open and close dates, trail photos, and more. Your paper maps can’t do that.

Download the app: onxoffroad.com

Albania – Country of Contrasts After passing through the border from Greece to Albania, there was an immediate different feeling. The contrasts were obvious. Although the beautiful mountain terrain was similar to Greece, we noticed a significant increase in trash along the sides of the roads and in rivers, especially near villages. We also noticed that people here, despite the significantly lower income, seemed much happier and friendlier. Farmers would stop, smile, and wave as we rode by. Children would run from their simple homes, and excitedly put out their hands so we could “high-five” them as we rode on by. It was not uncommon to see blacked-out luxury SUVs and sedans sharing the road with farmers, riding in rickety wooden carts being pulled by a tired donkey or horse. The contrasts in this country were invigorating to experience first hand more of Albania in ISSUE 61.

After the first day, it was obvious that we were the slow ones in the group. Our focus was more about having fun, experiencing the countries, and getting to the hotel at the end of the day before sunset. On the third day’s ride, which included a portion through North Macedonia, the route was over 200 miles. With our slower pace, it was recommended by the route coordinator that we bypass North Macedonia for the more picturesque off-road portion of the Albania high mountain plains. Although I was disappointed to miss out on visiting North Macedonia, I promised myself that I would return to experience this beautiful country in the future ISSUE 63. MOUNTAINOUS MONTENEGRO Adam and I were really impressed with the mountain passes of Montenegro. It was easily some of the most enjoyable and beautiful pavement riding of the entire raid. Highlights included canyon carving along the E65 with steep mountains on both sides of the road, and the mountain plateaus of the northern region, where the golden grass of the fall season would stretch for miles onwards to the next horizon. The combination of our short time in this country, and the natural beauty of the mountains, created a yearning to return someday. Fortunately, my wife and I returned the next year to spend more time enjoying this small but magnificent country ISSUE 59.

CRASHING IN BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA It was during the raid’s 6th stage that I suffered one of my worst off-road crashes. As I rounded a corner on a gravel trail, I blipped the throttle too much before the bike was upright. The rear wheel skidded right, and down I went to the left, falling to the ground and landing hard on my chest. I quickly got up, but gasped for air since the wind had been knocked out of my lungs during the fall. I turned away from my bike to “walk it off” a bit before helping Adam lift it back onto its tires. After the adrenaline wore off, I felt a dull pain in my lower ribs, especially when I took a deep breath. I hopped back on the proverbial horse and continued to finish out the day – albeit with a lot less throttle on the gravel corners. Fortunately, the rally’s mobile medical team was only a phone call away. After reaching the hotel, I went looking for the doc who was happily enjoying himself with a drink. He felt around my ribs and then gave me the thumbs up – “You’ll be fine! Probably just a couple of bruised ribs.” That night I slept restlessly since every time I turned on my left side the pain was strong enough to wake me up. The next morning, I woke with bags under my eyes. Fortunately, Adam was sympathetic and agreed to take the next day’s ride a bit easier and skip some of the longer sections of the trail. Even though we missed a long off-road section, it wasn’t a disappointment – there are plenty of paved curvy roads to enjoy throughout Bosnia & Herzegovina (UPSHIFT Issue 68).

CROATIA – THE JEWEL OF THE ADRIATIC The final day of the raid had us crossing into the country of Croatia. I’d heard a lot about this incredible country and was really looking forward to experiencing it first hand. Unfortunately, the raid only covered a very small two-hour portion from the inland border of Bosnia & Herzegovina to the coastal city of Zadar. Again, I vowed to return and experience the diversity of this country at a future date ISSUE 57.

WAS IT WORTH IT? Absolutely! This was my first organized motorcycle event and there is a lot of positives about these kinds of events – especially for those on a limited time frame. You can literally leave work almost anywhere in Europe on a Friday night, fly to the beginning of the route on a Saturday, ride hard all week, experiencing some of the best backcountry roads that Europe has to offer, and then return home on Sunday in time for work on Monday. The Illyria Raid was the perfect opportunity to experience a taste of these countries, in an exciting event where you don’t have to worry about anything other than safely riding to each day’s final checkpoint. To learn more about the Illyria Raid check out their website: www.illyriaraid.com

Norden 901 stock fog lights = 530 lumens. RUBY Moto R4 plug & play kit = 8,000 lumens. 15X more light, self-installed in 30 minutes.

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SNOWBIKE TECH Converting your dirt bike into a snow bike is a great way to turn your dirt bike into something that you can enjoy even when the world is covered in snow. Yet snow and winter conditions are very different than dirt bike riding conditions, so there are a number of things that you need to do to your bike to ensure that it works at its best whether it’s turning a track in the snow or a wheel in the dirt.

THE BIG IDEA Snow bike riding cannot be approached with the same mindset as dirt bike riding, because snow is so different than any other riding surface. Case in point, the snow pack you’re riding on can be too deep to walk through, so if your bike breaks down don’t assume you can just walk back to the truck. Likewise, camping in the woods in the middle of summer may be cold and miserable, but spending the night outside in the middle of winter can mean game over without the right gear. Then there is the whole avalanche thing to consider when you’re riding in the mountains. The point here isn’t to scare you off, but to make it abundantly clear that this is a different game than dirt biking. Yet when the conditions are choice, snow bikes can be even more fun than dirt bikes. BIKE SETUP “Snow bike riders need to be good mechanics,” said snow bike legend Brock Buttars. “You need to check over and care for everything on your bike. Failing to do this is a recipe for disaster.” Good mechanical practices at home will give you the best chance at having an issue-free ride. If you’re the rider who is constantly trail-fixing their bike – now might be a good time to adopt a high standard of preventative maintenance. When you are installing your snow bike system, take the time to carefully check over your bike and address any issues you may find. Replace any worn parts or do what is required to fix any potential issues you may identify. It’s much better to pay a few hundred bucks to fix any problems in the comfort of your garage as opposed to having to spend a few thousand bucks to heli a broken snow bike out of the back country.

SNOWBIKE TECH COOLING Water is commonly stated to be 1000 times more effective at transferring heat than air, so riding your dirt bike around in frozen water (snow) is essentially like using it in an environment where the cooling system cools 1000 times better. In many cases, this surplus of cooling power will keep your snow bike’s motor from ever getting up to operating temperature, which is not good. Thankfully, there are a number of things that can be done to help keep your bike at operating temperature. The first thing is to use an engine jacket, which keeps snow off of your bike’s motor. Next up is a thermostat which will only send warm coolant to your radiators if additional cooling capacity is needed. The last thing is to have some way to monitor engine temperature in real time. Ideally, you want to measure coolant temperature as it comes out of the motor, so a radiator fin sensor or a radiator cap with a temperature gauge isn’t the best option. It is possible to overheat a motor on a snow bike if you’re working the motor hard at slower speeds and not getting a lot of snow on the bike, so keeping an eye on your temperature and adjusting the engine jacket as needed is key. Keeping your motor up to temperature is critical to a reliable snow bike engine. OIL The other key part to a long lived snow bike motor is to keep good, clean oil in your bike. Snow bike use is harder on a motor, so you need to change your oil more frequently than you would during dirt riding. Use a quality motorcycle specific brand of oil, and pay attention to what’s coming out of your bike at each oil change. If your bike isn’t able to stay at operating temperature while riding, you may see water in your oil or smell fuel, again, not a good thing. SUSPENSION Snow bikes require a completely different suspension setup than dirt bikes as the forces created by a ski and track are significantly different than a pair of wheels. Forks set up for dirt riding are significantly under damped for snow bike use, and since the ski spindle mounts to the bottom of the fork stanchions, bottoming out hard is not something you want to have happen. There are two paths to proper snow bike suspension: The first option is to re-valve and re-spring a set of forks for snow bike use. Many snow bike riders will do this by picking up a set of used forks, allowing them to keep a set of forks for snow, and a set for dirt. Timbersled/Klim snow bike athlete Brock Buttars is also a suspension tuner and he has some outstanding solutions for snow bike forks. If you’re looking to go with a dedicated set of snow bike forks, Brock is a great resource for what to buy and how to set it up, in addition to being a great snow bike resource. The other option is to add a shock to your bike’s front end, like a Timbersled TRIO. This pneumatic shock is added between the bottom triple clamp and ski spindle to provide the additional damping required. Riders can adjust the air pressure in the TRIO to configure damping performance to their liking, making a TRIO configurable for big hits or more mellow trail riding. OTHER BIKE SETUP WISDOM The name of the game with snow bikes is to keep things simple and reliable. A good snow bike is one that is in great mechanical shape, starts easily, and runs well. Pre and post ride checks are essential, as is keeping an eye on your bike throughout the day. A couple of examples of key mid-ride checks are making sure your chain is properly tensioned and that your air box isn’t packing full of snow. After a ride, you need to make sure your bike is de-iced, and give the bike a good once over for damage, loose fasteners, chain tension and lubrication, and any other items that may have caused a problem.

SNOWBIKE TECH Oil and parts are cheap compared to the cost of rebuilding a motor, so keep on top of those service intervals, and replace parts before they have a chance to fail. Ensure bolts are properly torqued and chains are properly slacked. Snow bikes require more love than a dirt bike, so no, you can’t simply put gas in, ride it hard and put it away wet and expect it to work without issue. However, with good maintenance practices, riders can enjoy years of trouble-free performance out of one dirt bike – meaning off-season is officially a state of mind.

RIDER SETUP To enjoy snow biking whether it’s a warm sunny blue bird day or dumping snow, you as a rider need a different set of riding gear. Here are some key gear considerations: If you’re going to snow bike in avalanche terrain, you need to get properly trained and kitted up. At a bare minimum, you should have and know how to use a beacon, probe, shovel, and go take an AIRIE Level 1 avalanche course or equivalent. Air Bag back packs may seem expensive, but they have been proven to reduce the chances of burial in an avalanche, giving you one more edge should things start sliding on you. Aside from avalanche supplies, good gear matters when it comes to snow biking. Just like with adventure riding, you gear is your armor from the elements, only we’re dealing with more extreme temperatures than what is typically encountered when ADV riding. Klim was founded to create snowmobiling gear, which, combined with their motorcycle garment experience, gives them the ideal background to make gear for a sport that’s a cross between moto and snow. Again, this is another area where I would encourage spending the money to get a good kit that will last you a long time and provide years of trouble-free performance. Starting at your feet and working up, the first thing you need is a good pair of boots. Klim’s Havoc boots are specifically made for snow bike use and they have proven to be warm, comfortable, and their shin armor is great for dealing with footpegs or other hazards that may get in contact with your shins. When it comes to pants and a jacket, riders can opt for separate pieces, or a one-piece riding suit, like Klim’s Scout one piece suit. Each system has its pros and cons, so it’s a matter of choosing what will work best for both the snow and weather conditions you regularly encounter. Klim also has a complete line of gloves and goggles, which are best chosen by matching the kit to the conditions. Klim has a complete line of gloves ranging for waterproof liners to battery powered heated gloves which are great for changing conditions and temperatures. Likewise, with goggles, use a pair of snow specific goggles that have a lens tint for the lighting conditions. You need a different lens tint for snowy overcast days than you do for bluebird days. Your moto helmet works great for snow biking, and if you happen to have a Klim helmet, you’ll be able to use the breath box and windstopper liner that came with your helmet as needed for those really cold days. Nothing can ruin a snow bike ride like being cold and wet, so do it right the first time and get a quality kit that’s going to enable you to be comfortable no matter the prevailing conditions. Good riding gear combined with good snow bike setup and maintenance practices make for one incredibly unique and enjoyable riding experience.

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PART TWO

NEW MEXICO BDR

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DE VAULX

Flat and consequences The New Mexico Backcountry Discovery route is pretty unique in its shape, as it draws a gigantic “S” through the state. We started the trip on the bottom right of our Butler map near the border with Texas, crossed the whole state back to the border of Arizona, and then had to go up north, staying mostly on the western side. Needless to say, we expected changes of scenery and terrain, despite the first days on this ride already being pretty generous in terms of diversity.

Hunter country Leaving the town of Truth or Consequences at dawn on our Tiger 900s, the heated grips welcomed in the biting cold, we started the day with another magnificent view of the lake and the surrounding purple-ish mountains. Soon, the perfectly paved road unveiled a splendid layout of high turns and deep dips, like a beautiful roller coaster for grownups. On this ribbon of pavement, the Triumphs shone, their confidence-inspiring chassis and smooth engines pushing their riders to lean a few degrees more in every corner. After having rubbed the side of our boots in this exercice, we reached Winston General Store. The owner built a unique blend of gas station, grocery store, hunter supply and it even had showers! The hunting trophies on the wall made it clear that locals know what they’re doing with a rifle. It’s a family business in the backcountry, and we saw as many kids on this Sunday as we saw dads, all in the same fatigue gear. No doubt that ancestral traditions are well preserved in this area.

Technical trails After these first days mostly spent on paved road, gravel roads and large fire roads, entering the narrow canyon past the ghost town of Chloride was exciting. Here, as the trail followed river beds, we forgot any idea of speed and our mind switched to rock crawling mode. Trying to avoid overheating in the exercice, we folded our jackets in the panniers, but we still had to stop in the shade of some huge trees, blazing with ever-lasting fall colors. As the trail slowly gained some elevation, the canyon revealed some magnificent geological sculptures. Feeling like tourists in a museum, we admired these natural wonders through the shields of our Arai helmets while trying to keep an eye on the rocks in front of us. With the heat rising in this deep bottleneck, we enjoyed the few river crossings, some deep enough to raise concern. It was just after one of these forced foot-baths that we unexpectedly reached the famous Chloride switchback. Having ridden trials bikes helped us here, as balance was a key component for success on this treacherous turn: the loose dirt and the steep slope challenging our progression every second, we leaned the bikes to keep the momentum, staying on the outside line, our legs bent and our knees wide open. Making it on the first try was cause for a small celebration, with a high five followed by a feast of protein bars and trail mix. However, this climb was not the most technical one, and we had to tackle a few more steep steps, boulders, and other rolling rocks before reaching the plateau above the canyon.

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Useless toolbox Crossing the golden rolling hills on well graded gravel roads, we thought our day was almost done, with just a bit more than 60 miles of easy trails left before Reserve. Yet, in this western movie type of decor, we were soon to discover nothing was meant to be easy. As we cruised at generous speed, a warning on the dashboard of my Tiger caught my eye: low pressure on rear tire! Stopping to inspect the wheel, we couldn’t find any evidence of puncture. Assuming we only had a small one, we removed the valve core, opened a bottle of Slim and poured the green liquid into the rim. Plugging the small electric pump to the battery, we inflated the tire in no time and felt pretty satisfied with ourselves. Alas, that’s when we saw the Slim starting to drip from the puncture, the hole caused by a nail perfectly highlighted by the fluorescent product. It was time for plan B. Luckily, our 35L panniers were full of tools and we quickly opened our tubeless repair kit. One minute later, a plug was inserted and the tire inflated again. Jumping on the seat, we had time to ride a few miles before the warning light came back. Stopping for the second time, we discovered that the rear of the Tiger 900 was now fully painted in fluorescent green; the plug didn’t last and most of the Slim went out on the rear fender and shock! Annoyed but not yet worried, we put two plugs at the same time, cut them at the height of the thread, inflated the tire, and realized with horror that the plugs were pushed away by the pressure! Problem solving becoming a second nature at this point, we wrapped the tire with duct tape to maintain these two loose plugs. This solution seemed to work for a few more miles, and even if the sun was already low, we could still expect to make it to Reserve before the night. Our optimism vanished when the bothersome dashboard warning lit again. It was time to go big if we wanted to go home, and we decided to forget about this tubeless technology and to insert a tube in the wheel. Pulling the tool box out of our pannier bags, we felt pretty confident until we realized that, in our 15 pounds tool-roll, 1 ounce of steel was missing: the 17mm socket, making the rest of the tools completely useless. We tried different sets of pliers but the shape of the swing arm prevented a direct access to the nut, and the axle stayed resolutely in place.

Solidarity is key At this point, the night was settling and we still had 45 miles to go to exit the forest and reach Reserve. Inserting 4 plugs at once and again wrapping the tire with duct tape, we managed to make the repair last. Riding at 45 mph on the winding gravel road, scanning constantly the pitch dark woods for any sign of suicidal deer, we finally got back to civilization. After having bought frozen pizza and burritos at the gas station next to the closed restaurant, we asked for a place to buy tools. “There’s nothing here, the owner of the store has Covid and closed for a few days” was all the news we could get. It was not enough of a step back to prevent us from eating all the junk food and getting a good five hours of sleep, knowing that night usually brings good inspiration. In the morning, even the vision of frost on our seats couldn’t damper our good mood. We were on the hunt for a 17mm socket and it would probably be fun. Speaking with an old guy walking past our frozen bikes, we learned that the Catron garage was opening at 8am, just two hours from now. It was more than enough time to refuel the bikes, drink a great Colombian coffee and engage in a few more conversations at the Black Gold gas station. Almost feeling like locals, we parked in front of the garage and waited for the owner to arrive, warming up under the rising sun. Driving his red pickup truck, he finally arrived, lit a cigarette and started to talk with us like we were best buddies. It’s not like we were in a rush, but we also wanted to get it over with. Nonetheless, learning some local history about the peculiar Catron County, the first to pass ordinances resisting federal control over federal land within its boundaries, was a great opportunity. Five hours from any real city, most folks in this rural and remote county traded income and career opportunities for a great life style, based on the frontier ethic of the pioneers. Finally back in the shop, our new friend gave us the socket we needed, as well as a wrench, declining to take any money for it. We still bought a bottle of Slim, said our goodbyes, and went on the trail, thinking that such generosity was a great lesson to meditate about.

Giving back Confident that our repair from last night would last, we managed to get 50 more miles out of it, before having to stop and this time do a proper tube install. It took us 20 minutes tops, and we got back on the road again, saved by this one ounce piece of steel and the big heart of a retired Air Force mechanic. The rest of the day was spent mostly on nice drama-free gravel roads, with an occasional patch of sand to help us stay focused. A halt in the Ramah Reservation was our first glimpse of Native Americans in this so far mostly white country. It was a refreshing sight and we chatted with a few Navajos while waiting in line at the store to buy an ice cream. With the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary being closed when we arrived, we kept heading north at a steady pace. One hour before Grants, the gravel changed in a very nice and narrow double track entering the Cibola National Forest. More cat than Tiger, the heavy three-cylinder Triumphs managed to do a good job slaloming in between the trees, their performance enlightened by the last rays of the falling sun. The riding went wild, the two riders chasing each other with no more concern about “riding rights.” Back on pavement after this exhilarating 15-mile madness, the sky now pink and purple after sunset, we got to help a cyclist who needed an air pump. Being our turn to act as good samaritans, we felt that the loop had come full circle and we reached Grants, NM with a lightened heart.

BE MINDFUL : ADVENTURING IN THE BACKCOUNTRY IS A PRIVILEGE By following a few simple guidelines you can help keep riders and animals safe, preserve our access and shine a positive light on the adventure motorcycle community.

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By Travis Gill of viajarMOTO.com

My earliest childhood memory of the Winter Olympic Games was in 1984. I have fond memories of our family gathered around our 25-inch television and watching the ABC Sports evening broadcasts from a strange-sounding city called Sarajevo (Sar-uhyey-voh) within the communist country of Yugoslavia. I remember watching events like speed skating, alpine skiing, ski jumping, and bobsled racing for the first time in my life, and I discovered an interest in learning about the athletes who would come to compete in this pinnacle of world competition. It felt surreal to be entering a country in which I never would have imagined visiting in the childhood version of myself, yet here we were crossing the border from Montenegro ISSUE 59 into Bosnia and Herzegovina. These Balkan border crossings were now becoming routine, and consisted of the standard documents: passport, motorcycle registration, purchasing insurance from the nearby kiosk, and a negative PCR test for COVID. The professional border agent stamped our passports and handed us our documents with a smile. We returned with a courteous “Hvala” (thank you), twisted our throttles, and pointed our handlebars towards the capital city of Sarajevo.

Sarajevo – The Jerusalem of Europe The capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina is steeped in history that originated from the Ottoman Empire of the 15th century. The Turkish influences can still be seen today in much of the marketplaces, bazaars, mosques, and architecture throughout the city, especially in the Baščaršija – the cultural center of the city. We enjoyed walking along Bravadžiluk Street where markets were abuzz with merchants, elderly ladies feeding pigeons, children playing and laughing, and the occasional call to prayer that blankets the city in the soothing sounds of rhythmic Arabic being broadcast from the loud-speakers from the minaret towers. In the 16th century, the city’s first Serb Orthodox church was built. Jews, fleeing persecution from Spain and Portugal, arrived and built the first synagogue of Veliki Hram. Within the next century, the Sacred Heart Cathedral was built by the Roman Catholics. Today, this scenic city has over fifty mosques, synagogues, cathedrals, and churches that symbolize the religious and cultural diversity that has existed for centuries.

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Ethnic Rooted Conflict Although Sarajevo had enjoyed centuries of religious tolerance and freedom, the ethnic hatred between Bosniaks, Serbs, and Croats continued through the 20th century. Under the iron-fisted leadership of Yugoslavian President, Josip Tito, the ethnic tensions were kept in check. When the dictator died in 1980, Yugoslavia spiraled into chaos as the various republics and ethnic groups expressed the desire to be independent. By April 1992, tensions escalated into an all out war that resulted in ethnic cleansing, shelling of cities, towns, and landmarks, the death of nearly 100,000 people, and the displacement of over 2.2 million. Prior to the recent Russian invasions of Ukraine, it was the most devastating conflict in Europe since World War II. Although the Bosnia War ended in December 1995, we could still see reminders of the devastation 26 years later. We came across the skeletal remains of many buildings with large sections of broken concrete, warped rebar, and collapsed roofs. The destruction was seen on apartments, military barracks, churches, and in cemeteries where we noticed many headstones dated from 1992-1995. We observed many memorials of red-colored resin that filled the scarred remains of broken concrete, created from mortar shell explosions that fragmented into patterns that look similar to a flower. Each of these “Sarajevo Roses” are a reminder that at least three people were killed here, and there are over 200 of these memorials throughout the city of Sarajevo. If the violent past of the Bosnian War makes Bosnia and Herzegovina sound dangerous, it’s important to remember that the country of today is not defined by its challenging past. All throughout our travels of this beautiful country we found a feeling of hope and excitement for the future. Locals would stop and talk with us about our travels and generally wanted us to enjoy our time in their wonderful country. Plenty of Roads to Ride – With a Caveat Not only is Bosnia and Herzegovina an excellent place to be a tourist, it also happens to be a brilliant country to ride a motorcycle. We thoroughly enjoyed some memorable early spring riding through picturesque mountain passes and lush grassland valleys surrounded by snow-capped mountains. For those looking to enjoy the remote backcountry there are many dirt roads to explore as long as you observe the warnings about land mines.

Yes, land mines! Unfortunately millions of land mines were buried along political and military borders during the war, resulting in a country that has the most severe land mine problem in the world. Although efforts are being made to clear the mines, there are still tens of thousands that are waiting to be cleared or have not been found. Sticking to established trails that have been routed by locals is the best practice; for example, the Trans Euro Trail that winds 380 miles (610 km) through the southern part of the country and connects Croatia to the west and Montenegro to the south. Mostar – A Symbol of Reconciliation and Cooperation Two hours southwest of Sarajevo is the historic town of Mostar. This UNESCO World Heritage site is rich in history, culture, and a famous bridge that was originally built in 1566 during the Ottoman era. This iconic arched bridge is simply named Stari Most (old bridge) and connects the city which is split in half by the Neretva River. During the Bosnian War, Croatian forces shelled the stone bridge until it collapsed into the river below. This was a historical blow to the Bosniak Muslims which considered Stari Most to be an exemplary piece of Islamic architecture. After the war, the United States and other European nations provided millions of dollars to restore the town and the historic bridge. The reconstruction was done through the combined expertise of Hungarian, Spanish, and Turkish engineers to ensure it remained historically close to the original. In July 2004, the bridge was inaugurated with the hopes that it would help reunify Mostar from the wounds of war. As we admired this beautiful town and bridge from the river shore, we hoped that time would indeed heal the country and people of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Olympic Ruins The highlight of our time in Bosnia and Herzegovina was visiting the Olympic sites that I remembered watching as a child. Most notably are the ruins of the bobsled track at Mount Trebević and the ski-jumping facility at Mount Igman. We decided to reach the bobsled track by leaving the motorcycles at our hotel and riding the Sarajevo Cable Car up the mountain. The modern cable car provided a relaxing 9-minute ride that transported us from the hustle of the city streets to the relaxed forested hiking trails of Mount Trebević and the 4,300 foot (1,300 meter) bobsled and luge track, built specifically for the Winter Olympic Games of 1984. This track continued to be used for World Cup competitions until it was damaged during the Surge of Sarajevo in 1992 when Serb forces used the area for artillery positions. After the war, it became a canvas for graffiti artists and thrill-seeking mountain-bicyclists who would plummet down the largely intact concrete track. We ended up walking the entire length of the track while watching YouTube videos of bobsledders from the 1984 Olympics. About 40 minutes southwest of Sarajevo is the ruins of the Olympic ski-jumping facility near Mount Igman. Like many places in Bosnia and Herzegovina, this facility was also destroyed during the Bosnian War. We cautiously entered the facility from a dirt-road to the north and parked our motorcycles in a lot halfway up the side of the steep slope where two massive ski-jumps were built. With a bit of trepidation, we slowly climbed the chipped concrete staircase of the tallest tower that was built (and never maintained) almost 40 years ago. Reaching the top and looking down the ski jump was adrenaline filled! The steepness and sheer height made us dizzy at the thought of fearless athletes plunging themselves down the ramp and soaring over 330 ft (100 meters) to the landing arena below. After climbing down the tower we got back on our motorcycles and rode to the grassy verge at the bottom of the facility. This is where the 90,000 spectators of the 1984 Olympics would have watched the athletes soar from the ramps and land gracefully on the slopes below. We parked our motorcycles at the iconic Olympic podium and reflected on the incredible opportunity we’ve had to travel and experience the places of our childhood memories.

The End of the Balkans? After eight months of riding around the western Balkans we were eager to return to Western Europe once again. We set our GPS waypoint to a US military base in Italy where we hoped we could get a COVID vaccination and then make plans to spend our summer riding through Scandinavia. More adventure awaits… About viajarMOTO Travis and Chantil Gill started full-time motorcycle overlanding in early 2020 with the hopes of seeing and experiencing the different countries and cultures of the world. You can follow them on their website at www.viajarMOTO.com

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